Many years ago, I needed a set of plugs, and my local parts house didn't
carry NGKs, so I settled for a set of Champions. Now, I have used Cahnpionn
plugs in many other cars, but they didn't do real well in my roadster. So,
I drove a little further and got NGKs.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: <Keith0alan@aol.com>
To: <hallosb@juno.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Was points, now NGK BP6E versus B6E
> In a message dated 3/22/2008 6:39:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> hallosb@juno.com writes:
>
> Thanks again to all for the many offers of point sets. I'm going to see
> how
> the car runs with the points I have first but, I'm a little confused on
> the
> spark plug recommendations.
> Clymer Manual and NGK web site say the correct plug is B6ES.
> The Chilton manual, vendor manual, and 311s.org site say the correct plug
> is
> BP6ES.
> I noticed the BP6ES electrode sticks out a little more than the B6ES
> plug.
> Anyone know which one is correct. I'm running a completely stock 1600 if,
> it
> matters.
> TIA,
> Dan McHatton
> '66 1600
>
>
>
>
> The original was B6ES. My understanding is that the P, projected tip, is
> good for older high mileage engines that tend to foul plugs. Either one
> will
> work fine. Sometimes the B6ES is a little hard to find. The BP6ES, BR6ES,
> BPR6ES
> (resistor) all will work fine.
>
> My theory on plugs is to use the original manufacturer. Japaneese plugs in
> a
> Japaneese car, European plugs in a European car, American plugs in an
> American car. I've heard too many horror stories about Bosh or Champion
> plugs in
> Japaneese engines. According to the books they should be the same but for
> some
> reason they really are not. Met one bike mechanic that could tell by sound
> if
> the bike had Champion plugs in it.
>
> keith
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> Home.
>
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