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[Roadsters] UPDATE: Heater Blower Motor

To: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc@att.net>, Graeme Suckling <graemes@internode.on.net>, "datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Roadsters] UPDATE: Heater Blower Motor
From: wattaj <wattaj@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 14:47:03 -0800 (PST)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
References: <1360443592.49498.YahooMailNeo@web160805.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><BLU168-W558F7CA7FF80F21F15EA7FDF0B0@phx.gbl><D5C401D78CBD438EBF8C1EC2BD073A75@gaxp1> <5118486F.2090008@internode.on.net> <7AABBB1CFDDB403AA6573E02B9C38585@gaxp1>
I got a quote from local starter/alternator repairs shop that started at
$130, which is reasonable for the amount of work required.  However, I am
always game to learn something new.  An Internet search turned up a great
article titled, "How to Rebuild An Early Datsun Roadster Heater Blower
Motor".  I figured I would give it a try.  SUCCESS!  
 
I followed the article
with the exception of replacing the brushes because they looked pretty good.
I did do the following extra steps. 
 
Disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk.
 
Steps I followed:
  
1. I think my biggest issues was the motor had probably
sat un-used for years and year and was extremely difficult to rotate, so
disassembly and cleaning was my main focus.
3. Pulled the case apart and took
the armature out.
3. Mounted the armature in a drill press and polished up the
ends of the shaft that ride inside the bushings.
4. Took steel wool and
delicately cleaned the outside of the armature and commutator using the same
drill press method.
5. Then, steel wool to the inside of the magnets.
6. Blew
out all the dust (while wearing safety goggles and a mask!)
7. Reassembled and
the shaft spun very easily and smooth.
8. Test connected the motor and is spun
up quite nicely.
 
Please let me know if you have questions.
 
Now I just need
that rubber duct that goes between the blower housing and the heater box. 
 
Cheers,
Alan
1967.5 1600
Portland, OR
 
P.S. My body still aches after
spending my weekend upside-down reconnecting all the heater/vent control
cables. :)
 
 
 
 

________________________________
 From: Gary and Cindy
Ault <aultgc@att.net>
To: Graeme Suckling <graemes@internode.on.net>;
datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Heater Blower Motor
  
Graeme,

OK, but why not in
the outlet of the blower housing?  Much easier to access, unless you know a
way to get at it without pulling the heater box.  Pulling the heater box
entials loosening the clamps on the heater control valve and the other hose
connection which are neatly tucked into the recess in the firewall.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- From: "Graeme Suckling"
<graemes@internode.on.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday,
February 10, 2013 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Heater Blower Motor


> My
idea on the reason is to keep the resistor AIR COOLED and protected.
> It is a
wire wound resistor and as such is a perfect exposed heating element.
> If it
wasn't inside the heater enclosure, imagine the fluff and stuff that would
settle on the "element" resulting in a ........FIRE:'(
> I had to fit all the
heater parts to my '65 and I used a late model GM heater resistor in the stock
location.
> All it does is give you selection of the full12V and a few
settings of less than 12v to vary the speed of the blower motor
> Works
fine:-)
> 
> Regards,
> Graeme Suckling
> http://tinyurl.com/6n5aza
> Adelaide
> South Australia.
> 
> On 11/02/2013 11:37 AM, Gary and Cindy Ault wrote:
>>
WHY Nissan put that resistor inside the heater box instead of somewhere it
could be serviced without dismantling the car is beyond me.
>
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