In a message dated 10/13/01 7:25:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jherrera@fcc.cc.md.us writes:
<< I don't know what you should do to change the camber, but I would not heat
the uprights and beat them with a hammer. It sounds like a bad idea.
>>
Many years ago, I transferred the springs from the front of the remains of my
rusty, junk TR-3 (outdoors covered with black plastic) to my car. These
springs were shorter, used the spacers, and might have been an original
Group-44 maneuver done for Donna Mae Mims' car. This move alone gave me
approximately 1-1/2 degrees of negative camber as closely as I can tell with
my J. C. Whitney gages. I have to shim my garage floor in an attempt to
level the car, but I also took readings on the flat surface in the Nelson
Ledges Race Track Tech. Building a long time ago. I could also probably look
at flopping around the upper control arm pedestals to gain another degree of
camber.
Form Bill Babcock's recent mini-seminar, it appears that I accidentally
corrected some of the bump steer problems by limiting spring travel, but I
never got into trying to raise the Idler arm and steering box. It would be
interesting to know how Bill did this. I imagine that there was a lot of
cutting and welding. In my case, the connecting rod between the two arms
runs very close to the crankshaft extension for the radiator fan (hub, or
whatever you call it).
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