To customize the water pump, crank and alternator I used components from
Jones Racing Products. Nice web site even if you do not buy.
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/pul.html
They were willing to make a custom aluminum adapter to fit the front of
the standard crank pulley for about $140 in quantity of 1. I did not
yet order it, though it would sure help the design I did come up with.
IF anyone is interested, I would go in on a purchase.
Chuck
Larry Young wrote:
> I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch
> diameter) chunk of steel. It took forever. It would be much simpler
> to machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic
> balancer to it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work.
> Suggestions?
>
> Does anyone run an electric pump? Would it be vintage legal?
>
> If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase
> the block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen
> problems which I suspected were due to too much block pressure. I'm
> hard headed, so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run
> more than a 7 psi cap. With separate liners that protrude above the
> block deck, our engines have many places to develop leaks at high
> pressure. A better solution is to install a higher capacity
> radiator. This is one of the best mods I've done. Mine is a
> commodity Chevy radiator that I got from Speedway Motors for about
> $150. For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the filler neck and weld a
> patch over the hole. I fill thru an expansion tank mounted on the
> firewall, but it would be better to have a neck welded into the
> thermostat housing. I have enough to worry about when I'm racing,
> this eliminated one of them.
>
> Henry Frye wrote:
>
>> At 07:45 PM 03/25/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
>>
>>> It would be a very worthwhile endeavor to get a smaller crankshaft
>>> pulley
>>> or a larger waterpump pulley. We probably need about 60-70 percent
>>> of the
>>> pump speed we have now. It would require some testing and some
>>> engineering,
>>> but it seems like a worth project. Ken--have you ever considered doing
>>> something to fiddle with the pulley ratios?
>>
>>
>>
>> Remember, slowing down the water pump will further reduce the coolant
>> pressure in the block. You want decent coolant pressure in the block
>> to quench the steam bubbles that will form, and the inherent poor
>> coolant flow towards the rear of the block makes #4 the target for
>> localized overheating.
>>
>> I'd be cautious with this approach to finding more ponies, especially
>> if you have had cylinder #4 overheating issues.
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