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[FOT] Clutches

To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [FOT] Clutches
From: "TR4Tony" <tr4.tony@virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 08:42:12 -0000
Most Triumphant Amici .....

A little advice if you can.

Ive just had the second of two (in 2000 miles) very frustrating clutch
failures (looks like destriction of the driven plate on both occasions) on a
special test in a rally. The first in reckoned was due to the poor quality of
the new AP / Borg and Beck plates. The second was with an old favourite, so
now im not so sure.

Typically these rallies we do involve driving on full throttle around a test
circuit / selective / special stage where you rarely get ot of 1st and 2nd
gear and are always 'on the peg' at high revs for a few seconds at a time.
Lots of 'point and squirt' driving, use of the handbrake and clutch to spin
the rear round cones and obstacles and general sweat for both car and driver.

I dont have an overheating problem with the car and last time there was no
burning of the friction material - we just pulled up to the line after a very
quick run, got the timecard signed and when I reached for 1st it was gone
......

The car is pushing out about 160bhp and a similar figure in torque at about
4500 rpm with the current exhaust and cam (can get it to 200bhp  just by cam,
exhaust manifold and weber tuning - but not for rallying) so its quite
powerful this year, but not manic as it can be and has been.

The clutch ive been using for years is the Laycock TR6 type with the covered
springs on the driven plate and the 'faired in' cover with the longer lever
arm onto the release bearing - they have always been great clutches and in use
very easy to operate, but now I wonder whether the grunt is just too great. Or
am i developing a heavy left foot ?

What do you guys use ? Im thinking of a Tilton clutch with a ceramic plate -
is this too much of a 'switch' on a rally car ? which we also have to drive on
the road.

Thanks and regards

Tony




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