| Subject: | [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question |
|---|---|
| From: | yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04) |
| Date: | Thu, 22 Jun 2017 07:34:30 -0400 |
| References: | <1173587813.820995.1496435269367.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1173587813.820995.1496435269367@mail.yahoo.com> <001901d2dd64$9cf0a390$d6d1eab0$@gmail.com> <000701d2dd7d$5c9e1480$15da3d80$@wi.rr.com> <001401d2dd85$546e9d90$fd4bd8b0$@gmail.com> <84F56CFCC31FAC48AE160008ADDECFA562E81A35@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com> <3BDD3F22-C8D3-4FF5-881D-03DD783BD806@me.com> <001701d2de4a$334ce7f0$99e6b7d0$@wi.rr.com> |
This has worked for me for years. Had a Moldex made with 8 bolt holes, no dowels. I use one of those lightweight steel flywheels we had made up about 15 years ago with grade 8 fasteners, no washers and red Locktite. Henry Frye, currently building an engine for Old Blue using these bits > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Yott > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question > > Now the absolute best thing is to not use an aluminum flywheel! There is a > reason they are not allowed in Europe?.. Buy a steel flywheel and use 6 to 8 > bolts then most of the issues are gone. |
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