Likewise as Henry mentions, I use eight oversize grade 8 custom cut bolts with
hardened flat washers and no dowels. I use Locktite blue on cleaned threads and
yes it's a Moldex with a Tilton aluminum flywheel in a Spitfire application.
Never a problem. Engine lives most of it's life between 7-8K when at full song
on track.
Realize the key is clamping force. A dowel only serves as a positioning device
to locate the flywheel before installing the fasteners.
In the past I have seen some new guys use soft washers; lock washers and even
some Big Box hardware; all of which were viewed after a major failure.
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Yellow04 via Fot
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2017 7:35 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
This has worked for me for years. Had a Moldex made with 8 bolt holes, no
dowels. I use one of those lightweight steel flywheels we had made up about 15
years ago with grade 8 fasteners, no washers and red Locktite.
Henry Frye, currently building an engine for Old Blue using these bits
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Yott
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 ARP Flywheel Bolts Question
>
> Now the absolute best thing is to not use an aluminum flywheel! There
> is a reason they are not allowed in Europe?.. Buy a steel flywheel
> and use 6 to 8 bolts then most of the issues are gone.
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