Less than a week away from Springthing 2000, the Bluegrass Clubs tenth annual
celebration of spring for Healey lovers. This year our event will be in
Louisville, KY, May 18-20. Hope you can join us, it promises to be a
memorable Healey event and we always have space for last minute registrants.
This years attendees will enjoy an afternoon of horse racing from the
exclusive millionaires row seats at Churchill Downs. Besides a visit to
Churchill Downs we have our always fun Healey events including a Car show,
Rally, FunKhana, Banquet. Several new features this year are a Gymkhana
conducted by the local SCCA exclusively for Springthing participants, a tour
of a local British Car Restoration Shop, and a no-fee swap meet so bring your
parts and place them on the consignment tables.
Hope to see you there!
Check out the Springthing web site at
http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/springthing2000.html
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 07:49:50 EDT
Subject: Repainting your BJ8 front shroud badge
Hi Alan,
A bunch of years ago I tried the same project. The paint didn't dry smoothly
even though I got it in all the right places. I eventually just bought a
replacement and have the sloppy badge on the garage wall.
But if you are going to give it a try, try using nail polish and a nail
polish brush. If you feel you aren't steady enough, ask your spouse who
probably has more experience. This is a great way to get her involved. And
if you aren't married; what a great line to meet someone!
Let us know how it goes.
Rudy in NC
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 08:24:24 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 hardtop
"Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" wrote:
>
> HI All,
> I'm looking for a factory hardtop for my BN7
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
Try these folks; a few weeks ago, they had 11 of them and could fit
anything from a 100/4 on up: The Cape Works:
http://www.cape-international.com/home.htm
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
Angels
Who guard you
When you drive
Usually
Retire at 65
--Burma-Shave--
From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 14:40:39 +0100
Subject: Anyone managed to source a replacement 8"x4" speaker for a Healey?
Trying to replace the beaten up loudspeaker on my BJ8.
No one here in the UK supplies an 8"x4", it seems, and anything else (eg
6"x4") are only sold in pairs (at crazy high prices for connection to a
low quality AM radio!).
Some non-car speakers are available, but only in 8-ohm impedance - I'm
looking for 4-ohm, to get a good volume.
My last resort is a pair of cheap 4" 8-ohm TV replacement speakers side-
by-side and wired in parallel, to occupy the 8"x4" space and give 4-ohms
effectively.
Any other routes to a solution on this one?
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 11:24:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Anyone managed to source a replacement 8"x4" speaker for a Healey?
Hi Alan,
When I had my BJ8, I left the original speaker and placed two black speakers
behind the console and radio, facing away from each other. It gave me plenty
of sound and they were relatively inexpensive. Being black they were almost
invisible. I also found a good AM/FM radio that fit into the existing cutout
and put the original away in a box.
Rudy in Lenoir, NC, USofA
From Mark Fawcett <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 08:37:29 -0700
Subject: front brake calipers
Hi all,
What is the proper color for the front calipers for a 60 BT7?
Thanks,
Mark
From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 09:16:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Aerials - location and retractability
I just got my BJ8 this past weekend...brings back a lot of memories of my
BJ7 that I owned in college (first car) and finally sold in 73 before I went
to Southeast Asia (all expense paid vacation for a year courtesy of the
USAF). Anyway, always wanted another and found this one...good restoration
and motor rebuild. Late SN 40462....he has had it here in AZ for 12 years,
so no rust problems...
The previous owner did not want to drill the body, so he went to Radio Shack
and bought an antenna that tapes to the inside of the windshield...works
great and is almost invisible. By the way, he converted the car to negative
ground which makes it possible to put a real radio in it.
Hope this helps...
Mike Goode
Scottsdale, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: Aerials - location and retractability
>
> The hole for the aerial on my BJ8 is in the front wing quite close to
> the windscreen pillar. The aerial that came with the car (but not
> attached, and without fixings) is telescopic, but is not designed to
> retract into the body, as there is metalwork a couple of inches beneath
> the hole in the wing.
>
> Can't seem to find a replacement aerial that (a) is not designed to
> retract into the body, and (b) requires a hole around 27mm diameter.
> Ideally I'd obtain the fixings for my existing (original 1967) aerial,
> but can't get anywhere with that quest either.
>
> I'm tempted to close the existing hole when I have the car repainted,
> and start again. But what are my options? Where on the car can I fit a
> modern retracting aerial? Or is there a better way to keep this feature
> reasonably authentic?
>
> Any answers appreciated.
> --
> Alan Cross
>
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 13:36:05 EDT
Subject: Re: front brake calipers
In a message dated 5/13/00 8:50:30 AM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<<
Hi all,
What is the proper color for the front calipers for a 60 BT7?
Thanks,
Mark >>
The current consensus of the Concours standards contributors, as reflected in
our new book, is that the front calipers were most often painted black, but
sometimes were painted silver/gray like the rear drums -- since these were
painted by the supplier, they could have been either (as with the shock
absorbers). So, you can look at your originals and see what color it looks
as if they were originally painted. Or you can just pick the one you think
looks best.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
Co-author, Healey Restoration Guide
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 15:39:57 EDT
Subject: Contacts
Sorry to bomb the list, but looking for addresses, telephone numbers and/or
email addresses for Kurt DelBene and Sean Johnson -- can't find them in
either Healey membership book.
Thanks
Gary Anderson
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 21:23:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Repainting my BJ8 front shroud badge
Hi, Ed --
Somewhere around HBJ8L/40XXX (as far as can be determined at this time),
nose badges of BJ8s began to be painted red, rather than having the melted
red glass (cloisonne) like the earlier cars.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
HBJ7L/20111 HEALEYUM
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
-----Original Message-----
From: JustBrits@aol.com <JustBrits@aol.com>
To: byers@cconnect.net <byers@cconnect.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 12, 2000 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Repainting my BJ8 front shroud badge
>In a message dated 05/12/2000 3:17:18 PM Central Daylight Time,
>byers@cconnect.net writes:
>
><< Since my Mk III nose badge is of the "cloisonne" persuasion >>
>
>And since I have NEVER heard of anything different, why a question re
>"painting"??
>
>Cheers.............
>
> Ed
> '63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
> [W/"cloisonne" bonnet badge that reads "Mk II"]
>
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 22:52:39 -0400
Subject: Non Asbestos heatshields
Hi Mike,
It's nice to see you so active on the Healey list, sharing the wealth
of Healey experience you have.
I am finally getting back to working on the BJ8 after many years, and
I will be interested in the heat shielding. I am also still active
as the president of our small local Healey club in Ottawa, Ontario.
Can you shed any light as to what the actual material is?
I also like the look of your web site, with that beautiful 100S. It
is simple, well laid out, and works very effectively.
Cheers,
Richard
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 00:12:30 -0700
Subject: Around the world and leaving Turkey
Hi guys
Leaving turkey an moving into Georgia, some would say that this is the start
of the real rally and the beginning of the poor roads and the start of
potential border crossing problems.
The border crossing, apart from the lines that formed when a lot of people
and cars all turn up at once, seemed to have gone by reasonably well. At the
evening diner in Batumi the rally crews were visited by the new countries
President.
Up until now changing money in the more experienced western style hotels etc
has been easy, from now on it seems that 'get it where you can' is the order
of the day when the local gas station (doubles as a semi legal bank) ran out
of local money!
Tomorrow is a cross country drive to Tbilisi. The first problem may be TIME,
in the past 24 hours the clocks have moved forward 4 hours. An 8 o'clock
start may catch some people out.
The Lagonda M45 is down in 5th place behind a 1948 Fiat! the next placed
car is the Fangio Chevy Coupe that is some 2 hours behind. This car is
looking for a gearbox (Just starting to move into the former Russian
territories I do like their chances of finding one!) The oldest car left in
the race is the 1914 Rolls Ghost some 35 hours down on the pace. This car is
nearly 90 years old and so far has had no problems! Is this an indication of
Rolls build quality or just good preparation?
The classic results changed little, but it is worth noting that we have 5
Jaguars still in the event, "Grace Space and Pace" to quote W Lyons still
seems to be doing Ok in the year 2000. We still have 3 Astons in the event,
proving once again how strong and well built these cars are. The Healeys and
the Facel are going strong and are popular cars for historic rallies.
For sheer weight of numbers you have to note that 13 Mercedes Benz car are
still in the running, any of these cars could come in first. Few people
realize it, but Mercedes Benz have a very enviable rally results history.
The MGB continues to hang in there, as is the Morgan and One lone Morris
Minor, Britain's answer to the VW bug! Very reliable old transport Morris
Minors, and a lot of parts are available if it can make India.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 21:12:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Repainting my BJ8 front shroud badge
In a message dated 05/12/2000 3:17:18 PM Central Daylight Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< Since my Mk III nose badge is of the "cloisonne" persuasion >>
And since I have NEVER heard of anything different, why a question re
"painting"??
Cheers.............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
[W/"cloisonne" bonnet badge that reads "Mk II"]
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 16:17:44 +1000
Subject: BN1 front guard
Hello All
While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
Larry Varley
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 21:13:26 EDT
Subject: BJ8 badge
Alan,
I haven't tried this, but maybe it is worth a look: in hobby shops (in the
U.S.), they sell kits to make fake stained glass windows. They use a
transparent, colored plastic, either in liquid form, or in a powder, that
melts when heated, and flows into the mold being used. This material might
give a result closer to the semi-transparent cloisonne than a red paint.
Ray
BJ8
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 21:20:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
Has this chassis number been submitted to the BMIHT for a certificate? "The
Healey Story" by Geoffrey Healey indicates chassis from 138031 to 233456 were
built at Longbridge. Also, the BMIHT certificate for my car, which is chassis
number 149673, was built December 9, 1953. It does not seem logical that a gap
of 9,456 chassis numbers should exist between cars built in September and
December. Joe Elmer.
BGAHC@aol.com wrote:
> I received this email today and thought I would pass it along to the list. I
> don't know anything about the seller or the car. Contact him direct at
> WOODSIE55@aol.com
>
> Jim,
> anyone interested in an early 53' BN1?
> I
> INFORMATION
> This car has had only two owners. The original owner purchased the car in
> Sept. 1953 from Jaguar Cleveland. It is our understanding that this car was
> the 12th car shipped to the USA of the first shipment from Cape Warwick.
> The second owner purchased the car in July of 1954 and has remained with this
> family to date. The car is now available for sale in its current condition.
> The car has been garaged (heated) for most of its long life. The engine has
> not been started for at least 20 years.
> SPECIFICATIONS
> ALL PARTS ON THE CAR ARE ORIGINAL. THE CAR IS IN RESTORABLE CONDITION.
> 1) 4 CYL. ENGINE # 1B21398OM The engine was replaced in 1959 with another
> BN-1 Healey engine. The original engine had a cracked block. There is less
> than 27,000 miles on this engine. The original engine ,transmission, and
> overdrive is available and will be sold with the car. There are also many
> miscellaneous extra parts that will be sold with the car.
> 2) CHASSIS: 140217
> 3) BODY:4284-68 The hood was modified with louvers
> 4) 3-speed w/ overdrive
> 5) 4 Perelli tires w/spare excellent shape
> 6) Original owner and parts manual available as well as other written
> memorabilia
>
> ASKING PRICE: ___25k____________
>
> E-MAIL FOR APPOINTMENTS
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 22:15:01 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
Hi Larry,
I'm sure Rich Chrysler can shed more light on this but I believe that that
style of front guard was not uncommon on later BN1s . I have a couple in
amongst our used body panels.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Larry Varley wrote:
> Hello All
> While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
> worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
> swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
> follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
> panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
> with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
> about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
> wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
> the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
> Larry Varley
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 11:25:22 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8 badge
In message <4a.55bbd7e.264f57b6@aol.com>, JRLNJ@aol.com writes
>Alan,
>I haven't tried this, but maybe it is worth a look: in hobby shops (in the
>U.S.), they sell kits to make fake stained glass windows. They use a
>transparent, colored plastic, either in liquid form, or in a powder, that
>melts when heated, and flows into the mold being used. This material might
>give a result closer to the semi-transparent cloisonne than a red paint.
>Ray
>BJ8
Your suggestion is interesting, but the only trouble is, 'authentic' for
my very late BJ8 means painted and looking like paint, not cloisonne as
on the earlier 3000s. This rules out (I think) another suggestion of
using nail varnish.
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 09:49:10 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
> Larry Varley wrote:
>
> > Hello All
> > While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
> > worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
> > swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
> > follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
> > panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
> > with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
> > about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
> > wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
> > the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
> > Larry Varley
Yes, absolutely.
BTW, to help clarify the terminology for all, Larry's reference to "guard"
may also be called "wing", or "fender" to most folks on the left side of the
pond.
These have been seen a number of times on mid-production BN1's. In fact,
BN1L220884, (October 21st 1954) which I used to own, had this style front
wing on the left side, with a non-pressed one on the right. Both wings
matched as viewed from the outside, and were the smaller wheel arch opening.
In fact, I recall a fellow going around the show at Conclave 1994 in
Louisville, Ky. checking this feature. He apparently had a similar
situation, with one of the aforementioned on the left side of his car. He
found a car there with one pressed out on the right side and asked the owner
if he would consider a trade. The owner replied no way, as he had owned the
car from new, and this was an original fitting.
Bottom line it seems is that the Works appeared to be experimenting with
trying to stiffen up this near flat panel area. The cutout beneath the
chrome spear being open as an air outlet also added to the fragility and
flexibility of the area.
In the end, of course, they opened up the wheelarch opening, and eventually
deleted the vent slot beneath the spear. Even these two features were
introduced gradually on cars. Some cars even came down the line with
mismatched wings on left vs right. Interesting stuff!
Rich Chrysler
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 11:11:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Repainting my BJ8 front shroud badge
In a message dated 05/13/2000 4:08:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< Somewhere around HBJ8L/40XXX (as far as can be determined at this time),
nose badges of BJ8s began to be painted red, rather than having the melted
red glass (cloisonne) like the earlier cars.
>>
Learn something new every day, Steve. Thanks!!
Cheers............
Ed
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 11:31:49 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
Larry, Mike and Rich
Just to add a bit more information, I have found this type fender about six
times over the years with the first being found on the right side of
BN1L221437, body #6182. Initially I thought that it was a six cylinder
fender that had been modified to fit on the 100-4, but on closer examination
it turned out to be a totally unique. A fact that I later confirmed by
discussing this with Roger Moment among other experts.
I have even seen this type of fender on two BN2's, but in both cases the
wheel arch radius had been enlarged by the body shop to match the other,
original BN2 fender with the larger wheel opening.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, Ca
'55BN1
In a message dated 05/14/2000 7:02:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA writes:
<< > Larry Varley wrote:
>
> > Hello All
> > While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
> > worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
> > swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
> > follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
> > panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
> > with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
> > about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
> > wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
> > the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
> > Larry Varley
Yes, absolutely.
BTW, to help clarify the terminology for all, Larry's reference to "guard"
may also be called "wing", or "fender" to most folks on the left side of the
pond.
These have been seen a number of times on mid-production BN1's. In fact,
BN1L220884, (October 21st 1954) which I used to own, had this style front
wing on the left side, with a non-pressed one on the right. Both wings
matched as viewed from the outside, and were the smaller wheel arch opening.
In fact, I recall a fellow going around the show at Conclave 1994 in
Louisville, Ky. checking this feature. He apparently had a similar
situation, with one of the aforementioned on the left side of his car. He
found a car there with one pressed out on the right side and asked the owner
if he would consider a trade. The owner replied no way, as he had owned the
car from new, and this was an original fitting.
Bottom line it seems is that the Works appeared to be experimenting with
trying to stiffen up this near flat panel area. The cutout beneath the
chrome spear being open as an air outlet also added to the fragility and
flexibility of the area.
In the end, of course, they opened up the wheelarch opening, and eventually
deleted the vent slot beneath the spear. Even these two features were
introduced gradually on cars. Some cars even came down the line with
mismatched wings on left vs right. Interesting stuff!
Rich Chrysler
>>
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:28:11 +0200
Subject: cough,sputter etc.
Listers,
I need some ideas, something to rectify or look for etc.
My car, when cold, has no problems accelertating up to 4000 rpms.... then.. at
approx. 160 F..it will not exceed 3500 rpms. Getting even hotter.. abt. 175
F..... it will not get past 3000 rpms...... at 190 F... it will not get past
2000-2500 rpms. Now, I have changed all components in the ignition-system.
It does not help to play with the choke..(giving it more gas..)
Any ideas out there?
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 12:59:26 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
Your use of the term "guard" threw me off at first. From your detailed
description I believe you are talking about a front fender, or "wing", in
Brit. terminology.
About 2 1/2 years ago I came upon a batch of NOS parts in St. Louis which
included these unusual BN1 front wings -- four right side and one left. They
all had a pressed-in groove, mimiking the swage line of later 6-cyl cars. It
was, however:
1) a "V" groove
2) did not run exactly parallel to the back edge of the wheeel opening, but
was aboaut 1 1/2" back near the curve at the top and more like 3/4" back at
the bottom
3) it started at the front end of the chrome wing flash and made a
medium-radius curve like on the 6-cyl fenders.
4) it was filled smooth on the "outer" side so the wing looked like any
"normal" BN1 fender.
5) it could be easily felt when such a wing was installed on a car by
running your fingers along the back side of the wing, and near the edge of
the inner wheel arch.
6) a photo of these wings is shown in the Concours Guidelines, and has been
in there since the 1999 update (maybe even the 1998 version but I don't
remember).
I wrote Gerry Coker about these wings and he had no knowledge about them. He
did tell me that designers at Jensen played around with ideas that he didn't
know about, from time to time, and that these might have been the result of
such an excercise. Since Jensen made the bodies, they would have had the
means to form new-shaped panels.
I have found these wings on at least 2 actual cars, running about.
My own best guess is that this grooved feature line was perhaps an idea for a
minor styling change, maybe during the BN1 production period (they certainly
made a lot of running changes of major significance to the BN1, especially in
1954 and 1955), and it (the proposed idea) even got so far as to have tooling
made up. The grooves are all so exactly uniform in shape from wing to wing
that I believe the were formed by tooling, and not by hand. I guess the idea
didn't "pass muster" and was dumped, but meanwhile a number of wings had been
stamped out. I think they were "corrected" back by filling in the depression
with lead and then sending them to dealers to use as repair parts. This
would explain finding them on a few cars, always (at least so far) on one
side or the other but not both sides.
I really would like to know more about the story, but chasing it down in
England has given me no more info.
Roger
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:06:11 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Quarterlight Glass
We can supply these new or I also have some used if you are interested.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:56:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 5/6 Bladed Fans
Hi,
A question for the group. Healey Surgeons offer what they list as a
"factroy" 6 bladed fan for the 100-4. Dennis Welch offers a 5 bladed fan
for extra cooling. Which would be the better choice (exclusive of other
options) and why? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 16:33:01 -0400
Subject: Need address
This is a cryptographically signed message in MIME format.
--------------ms61C49B5603BB53331D70B365
Anyone on line have the Email address of the Austin Healey Club of New
Zealand ? Thanks Dyaarl
--------------ms61C49B5603BB53331D70B365
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Content-Description: S/MIME Cryptographic Signature
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--------------ms61C49B5603BB53331D70B365--
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:11:42 EDT
Subject: Re: cough,sputter etc.
In a message dated 05/14/2000 12:30:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
seel@online.no writes:
<< Any ideas out there? >>
I have a couple. First, it sounds like you may have a problem with the fuel
line or carbuerttors getting hot. Check to see if the fuel line is touching
the engine or exhaust anywhere. As for the carbs, is your heat shield in
place? Is the asbestos still on it? If not, then that could be your problem.
Secondly, check your gas cap. It could be that this is not letting air into
the fuel tank, and when the car gets hot, the car is vapor-locking. (Fuel is
flashing in the lines due to the reduced pressure.) If you hear a rush of
air when you remove this after driving, then this is a sign that there may be
a problem here. Try driving with the cap screwed on only part way and see if
this makes a difference. If so, then this may be the problem.
Good Luck!
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8 (Still apart on my garage floor, but I did work on it today)
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Anders Roil <roil at sensewave.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 00:09:54 +0200
Subject: SV: 5/6 Bladed Fans
Hi Douglas
The fan from DW has two advantanges from my perspective:
1) More effective than original (more air)
2) It is silent!!!!
Best
Anders Roil
----------
Fra: Douglas W. Flagg[SMTP:dwflagg@juno.com]
Sendt: 12. mai 2000 01:56
Til: healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: Re: 5/6 Bladed Fans
Hi,
A question for the group. Healey Surgeons offer what they list as a
"factroy" 6 bladed fan for the 100-4. Dennis Welch offers a 5 bladed fan
for extra cooling. Which would be the better choice (exclusive of other
options) and why? Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:25:17 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
G'day Larry
We from the Great South Land should stick together as I knew exactly what you
meant when you mentioned your front guards. It's not our fault that our
American friends have invented such weird names like "fender". To further
enrich my automotive education perhaps someone could tell me the origins of the
word "fender".
Both of the front guards on my BN3 has the grooves that you are referring to. I
know that a lot of petrol has flowed through the pipes since 1954 but its
chassis number is 144603 which is fairly early in the piece.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> Larry Varley 05/13 4:17 pm >>>
Hello All
While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
Larry Varley
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 23:18:49 -0400
Subject: Re:BN1 Hubs
I have a complete set of excellent used hubs for a BN1 that I plan to
auction on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off the net.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:37:54 -0700
Subject: Around the world to another rest day and a 5.30 am start.
Hi Guys
The road to Tiblisi is now famous among the rallyists for several things,
the Hotel turned out be infested with mice, One woman co-driver having one
run up her nightdress and pop out of the top! bathrooms that did not work,
except to rain on the bathroom below when the toilet was flushed. And
emergency oral surgery that had to done on a driver being done by another
driver from a Mercedes crew with his co-pilot holding a flashlight as the
light source. The surgical sheets were apparently the Stars and Stripes, the
Union Jack and the EU flag!
Sounds like fun???
The Fangio Chevy has had a gearbox change in the basement (yes, they found
one!) and fingers etc are now crossed that it is OK.
The Bentley still leads and the Packard is holding an nice steady second
place, them 30's car were strong and should cope with the road conditions
well if not to much stuff falls off.
The Ferranti P111 is well positioned in mid field at 11th place with No
problems we hear. The Dyke-Price Onyett Team Healey is now in 8th position
and appears to be in fine shape, only 2 mins ahead of the Jaguar XK140
Coupe, some 15 mins down the leader board in the Xk 150 S is the Jones clan
just ahead of the Morris Minor. The Hunts Team Healeys car is in 26th place
with the little MGB chasing them, they are split by the Rolph 230SL
Mercedes. The Facel is in 32nd place and running like a dream, so he says!
The Astons are sitting in 3rd, 38th and 44th places on the scoreboard A nice
spread guys. The Morgan is at position 43 and the Jaguar Mk1 in last place
(should these cars be called Mk1's I don't think so!)
Tomorrow is an early start at 5.30am heading for the ferry to take them all
into some more unknown territory and further east. A lack of sleep for some,
with car problems for others, and more problems to come? What else can
happen over the next 67 days of racing over the worse roads in the world in
50 year old cars? A whole lot I guess!.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:42:14 +1000
Subject: Cylinder Head Design
Greetings
Over the years I had thought I had seen most things in Austin-Healeys but over
the weekend I saw a car that has me stumped. (Australian for not knowing and is
derived from a cricketing term. Cricket is a sport to you unbelievers in the
US.)
Anyway I was visited on Saturday by a chap in his BN1. The car was quite used
around the edges but he was very happy with it. Which is all that matters.
I had a close look at the engine and in particular the cylinder head.
At first glance it looked quite normal but it had a bypass hose from the larger
sized thermostat bowl/housing to the top of the water pump. The thermostat
cover was also different in that it was located by only three holes instead of
the normal four and was more like that from the 'C' Series engine. There were
two locating bolts for the distributor but one for the tach drive.
Any takers on the origins of this no doubt sedan engine?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 20:33:54 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
In a message dated 05/14/2000 7:30:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< To further enrich my automotive education perhaps someone could tell me
the origins of the word "fender" >>
I believe it is a device used to 'fend-off' pedistrians who might stray into
one's way. Like Aussies who migh have had one too many at the saloon. ;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:39:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Net security (non-Healey)
As a follow-up to my recent post on security: a more thorough free
test is available from dslreports.com, as well as a much more
thorough subscription testing service (
http://www.dslreports.com/r3/dsl/secureme ). The site also looks
like a fine resource for anyone contemplating DSL- info, tests,
tweaks, DSL provider lists by zip code and "reviews" (user comments
and ratings- mine, Mindspring, had 96), etc.
As I had a couple of requests for my former links, here they are
again:
> ShieldsUp: http://grc.com/default.htm
> ZoneAlarm: http://www.zonelabs.com/
>
> For more reading on security (with references to other test sites
> and firewalls as well as ShieldsUp and ZoneAlarm:
> http://www.winmag.com/columns/explorer/2000/06.htm .
>
Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 20:41:58 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
In a message dated 05/14/2000 6:27:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< education perhaps someone could tell me the origins of the word "fender".
>>
Huuum, Patrick?!?
Freddy Fender???
Fender Guitar ???
Cheers................
Ed
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:45:56 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
Ed
The mind boggles at the thought of Elvis et el strumming away on a BN1 front
guard/fender/wing.
Patrick Quinn
>>> JustBrits@aol.com 05/15 10:41 am >>>
In a message dated 05/14/2000 6:27:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
QUINNP@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<< education perhaps someone could tell me the origins of the word "fender".
>>
Huuum, Patrick?!?
Freddy Fender???
Fender Guitar ???
Cheers................
Ed
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 23:04:28 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
I suspect that fenders were meant to fend off the mud and gravel
thrown up by the wheels, just as I suppose that guards were supposed
to guard the vehicle's occupants in a similar way from flying debris.
Now wings ??? Probably the clamshell wings on earlier cars really did
resemble wings in a way that Healey wings no longer did. My surmises,
anyhow.
We have (mud) guards that attach to the trailing edges of fenders.
They are usually made of rubber and seen more often on large trucks.
-Roland
not from Oz, obviously
On Mon, 15 May 2000 09:25:17 +1000, you wrote:
::
:: G'day Larry
::
:: We from the Great South Land should stick together as I knew exactly what
:you meant when you mentioned your front guards. It's not our fault that our
:American friends have invented such weird names like "fender". To further
:enrich my automotive education perhaps someone could tell me the origins of
:the word "fender".
::
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 07:51:50 -0000
Subject: Early Chassis Numbers (was "RE: Early BN1 for sale")
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Elmer [SMTP:Joelmer@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 01:20
To: BGAHC@aol.com
Cc: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
<< "The
Healey Story" by Geoffrey Healey indicates chassis from 138031 to 233456
were
built at Longbridge. Also, the BMIHT certificate for my car, which is
chassis
number 149673, was built December 9, 1953. It does not seem logical that a
gap
of 9,456 chassis numbers should exist between cars built in September and
December. Joe Elmer. >>
Joe,
Bear in mind that not all of the chassis numbers were assigned to
Austin-Healeys. In the early days of Austin-Healey production, such as
while they were made in Longbridge, the chassis numbers were allocated
daily to ALL the cars that would be made there that day. Thus for example,
while your car has chassis number 149673, the next number, 149674, might be
an Austin saloon or some other Austin model, and not an Austin-HEALEY. The
"gap" of 9,456 chassis numbers that you note does not, therefore, indicate
that that many Austin-Healeys were built in that 3-4 month period. Rather,
it indicates that a total of 9,456 cars of all types were built there in
that period.
Check out the table and notes that begin on page 108 of the 1999
Austin-Healey Resource Book. (See the URL listed below.) Hope this is
helpful.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 14:54:27 +0100
Subject: Early Chassis Numbers (was "RE: Early BN1 for sale")
From: Nick Jones@AMAWORLD on 15/05/2000 02:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject:
Patrick Quinn wrote..
It's not our fault that our American friends have invented such weird names like
"fender". To further enrich my automotive education perhaps someone could tell
me the origins of the word "fender".
'Fender'....to fend off ,..to keep away......just a thought during the middle
of the day..anyway dont boats have these as well..no comparison
although Healey did make both..
Nick Jones,Munich,Germany
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 07:59:38 -0600
Subject: Order of manifold/carb installation
Greetings listfellows.
Picked up my completed motor friday and have been finishing the detailing
and minor componenet assembly. I'll slip the mated engine and trans in
later this week (cherry picker with angling attachment) and wanted to get
consensus on the attachment order for the carbs. That is, 1. attach
manifolds then carbs, 2, attach carbs to manifold and then install?
Getting pretty excited about this. Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:00:11 -0600
Subject: Toronto Healey events?
I am just wondering if there are any Healey or British car events in the
Toronto area on the weekend of June 3-4.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK
1956 BN2
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:54:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
Hi Jim,
If you attach the carbs to the manifold first and assuming you have the heat
shield in place between the carbs and manifold, it is very difficult to get
to the lower row of nuts that secure the manifold to the head.
The other factor that comes to mind (didn't have to deal with it but
guessing by the way it stacks up) is that you may get interference with the
manifold studs as you try to angle the shield under the steering column.
Another tip, if it's not too late - leave off the last stud on the head for
the exhaust manifold. If the throttle linkage is in place, you'll probably
find that the manifold won't go in because of interference between
stud/manifold/pedal rod.
Getting the carbs on after the manifolds is really pretty simple, made
easier by leaving off the air cleaners. If you don't have the front shroud
installed yet, it's a piece of cake.
Hope this helps,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 7:00 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Order of manifold/carb installation
Greetings listfellows.
Picked up my completed motor friday and have been finishing the detailing
and minor componenet assembly. I'll slip the mated engine and trans in
later this week (cherry picker with angling attachment) and wanted to get
consensus on the attachment order for the carbs. That is, 1. attach
manifolds then carbs, 2, attach carbs to manifold and then install?
Getting pretty excited about this. Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From "John Bumpus" <jbumpus at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:41:52 -0700
Subject: rear exhaust mounts
A question for BJ8 owners the last exhaust mount after the resonator
part No. 13 ,AHB 8993 on page 19 plate A14 were does it
go ;before the pipes bend up or after and was it the same color as the
rest of the system.
Thanks again Bumpy
From "S.HUTCHINGS" <hutching at myna.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 12:45:05 -0400
Subject: Re; RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
But Adnan, what about those two bottom inside nuts on the carbs (BJ8), if
you're putting on the carbs WITH the shroud and fenders in place.....I've
done it, and I have the scars to prove it.....any tips here?
Stephen, BJ8 (Toronto)
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:55:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
Hi,
Removing the air cleaners would help but I'm sure one has to pay the piper
at some point with skinned knuckles and blood.
I remember taking off the carbs that way with the shroud in place and it was
no picnic. Can't think of a way to simplify it any further.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: S.HUTCHINGS [mailto:hutching@myna.com]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 9:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re; RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
But Adnan, what about those two bottom inside nuts on the carbs (BJ8), if
you're putting on the carbs WITH the shroud and fenders in place.....I've
done it, and I have the scars to prove it.....any tips here?
Stephen, BJ8 (Toronto)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:07:00 -0700
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
C style curved wrenches and skinny fingers helps!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:08:16 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 front guard
In a message dated 5/13/00 5:22:07 PM, varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
<<
Hello All
While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
Larry Varley >>
Hey -- you win the prize -- we've only seen this type of fender twice in the
U.S. but are certain of its authenticity. We're just not sure why it was
done. We can only speculate they were trying out the swage line for
strengthening purposes, or as a styling exercise and decided not to continue,
but were left with the fenders, so leaded them in and sold them as
replacement parts or used them in production. They are noted in the Concours
Guidelines with a picture. Contact Alan Alfano aalfano02@snet.net for
additional info.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:18:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Order of manifold/carb installation
Trim the sharp, ragged ends of the choke cables, and take an
inexpensive but reasonable quality 1/2" or 13mm combo wrench (not too
long) and grind the OD of the box end down some. Then grind the
thickness of the box end a bit, too, so it will fit easier into the
tight spacesbetween carb body and end of stud. Reach around the
carbs from the outside in, underneath, if you can't fit the wrench
around from above. Get the peroxide and some cotton swabs ready and
go to work. :-)
-Roland
BJ7 and the scabs to prove it
On Mon, 15 May 2000 12:45:05 -0400, you wrote:
::
:: But Adnan, what about those two bottom inside nuts on the carbs (BJ8), if
:: you're putting on the carbs WITH the shroud and fenders in place.....I've
:: done it, and I have the scars to prove it.....any tips here?
:: Stephen, BJ8 (Toronto)
::
::
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:41:52 -0700
Subject: Dixon Show on next Sunday
If anybody on the list is coming to the Dixon show (By Davis Ca, ) this
Sunday, please introduce yourself to two of us on the list. Ken Freeze and
Jerry Costanzo will be there working the event. I should be at the front
gate doing car check-in starting at 0700 am. There are already about 80
cars pre-registered and we have been getting about 140 total entries.
There were also be a swap meet.
Jerry
BN4,TR3A
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:53:04 -0700
Subject: Removing "patina" from vinyl interior
My '66 interior is mostly original and in very good shape - but, the dk blue
vinyl on the door panels, arm rest, tonneau and dash console have a brown
tinge or stain to them (assumed from years of exposure). Has anyone found
an effective way of restoring the vinyl to it's former color? I've tried
various cleaners laying around the house to no avail. Thanks
Randy Harris (BJ8)
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:01:12 -0700
Subject: Getting under the car
Listers
I need to get my car up onto a lift for a day to detail the undercarriage.
The problem is that every garage I talk to says they have "insurance issues"
that won't allow them to rent me time on their lift. Is there a reliable
and safe way to lift the car which would give me clear access short of
renting time at a service station lift (which appears to not be an option).
For instance, are portable ramps a worthwhile investment and will they give
me enough clearance to clean gunk and spray paint? Your collective wisdom
is appreciated. Randy
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:01:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
Joe
We have in our 100 Register the next chasssis number to this one
BN1
Chassis 140218
Batch/Body 4284 70
First registered 6 August 1953
Hence this car was built earlier than this.
It is rather misleading to try and consider chassis number at this
period of manufacture because they were shared with other models such as
the A70 Hereford.
It is better to consider body numbers because these were unique to the
100 and although they were not allocated to finished cars in exact
sequence they are are still a good indication of how many 100s were
built over a given period of time.
>
>Has this chassis number been submitted to the BMIHT for a certificate? "The
>Healey Story" by Geoffrey Healey indicates chassis from 138031 to 233456 were
>built at Longbridge. Also, the BMIHT certificate for my car, which is chassis
>number 149673, was built December 9, 1953. It does not seem logical that a gap
>of 9,456 chassis numbers should exist between cars built in September and
>December. Joe Elmer.
>
--
John Harper
From Bill Martin <martin_93555 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 12:15:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
I think my fuel pump on a late MkIII has gone bad.
The book says it's under the right seat pan, and
mentions lifting out the pan to get to the pump. Mine
doesn't want to lift. Anyone have a clue how to get
in there? Do people generally rebuild these pumps,
replace them new or replace them with rebuilds?
Thanx, Kathy Martin
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:11:24 -0400
Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
Are you going to wear your official Healey List hat?
I got mine!
Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Costanzo [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 1:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dixon Show on next Sunday
If anybody on the list is coming to the Dixon show (By Davis Ca, ) this
Sunday, please introduce yourself to two of us on the list. Ken Freeze and
Jerry Costanzo will be there working the event. I should be at the front
gate doing car check-in starting at 0700 am. There are already about 80
cars pre-registered and we have been getting about 140 total entries.
There were also be a swap meet.
Jerry
BN4,TR3A
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:23:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Toronto Healey events?
Ward
The Vintage Sports Car Rendezvous will be in Thunder Bay the following weekend
- June 8-11. This is sponsored by the Minnesota AH Club, the Manitoba AH Club
and various other marques. It's the same meet as was in Winnepeg last year at
the same time.
Why don't you talk the Drivers into meeting you there and drive home with them?
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
> I am just wondering if there are any Healey or British car events in the
> Toronto area on the weekend of June 3-4.
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon, SK
> 1956 BN2
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:30:22 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
In a message dated 5/15/2000 14:22:11 Central Daylight Time,
martin_93555@yahoo.com writes:
<< I think my fuel pump on a late MkIII has gone bad.
The book says it's under the right seat pan, and
mentions lifting out the pan to get to the pump. Mine
doesn't want to lift. Anyone have a clue how to get
in there? Do people generally rebuild these pumps,
replace them new or replace them with rebuilds? >>
Just put a new fuel pump in my BJ8 last week. You can replace it by taking
the passenger rear tire off and working from the fender well. Put a rag over
the spline to keep grease off you. I went with a NEW unit, neg ground. Don't
forget to get new gaskets for the fitting, same as banjo's on carbs.
To get rear seat out there should be four nuts on studs that are welded to
underside of seat.
Good luck
Don
Have you visited the NTAHC web site yet? <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com>
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 14:39:01 -0500
Subject: Front Shroud - BJ8 (four lights)
Hi,
Does anyone have leads on a good, used front shroud, the kind with four
indicator lights?
Having stripped all the filler off mine, I can see the true extent of the
damage and have concluded that I had better leave this in the hands of a
professional. Just weighing my options..
Thanks,
Adnan
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 12:39:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
Where in Dixon?
JP, Sacramento, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ledwith, Ryan S [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 12:11 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
Are you going to wear your official Healey List hat?
I got mine!
Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Costanzo [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 1:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dixon Show on next Sunday
If anybody on the list is coming to the Dixon show (By Davis Ca, ) this
Sunday, please introduce yourself to two of us on the list. Ken Freeze and
Jerry Costanzo will be there working the event. I should be at the front
gate doing car check-in starting at 0700 am. There are already about 80
cars pre-registered and we have been getting about 140 total entries.
There were also be a swap meet.
Jerry
BN4,TR3A
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:43:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting under the car
In a message dated 5/15/00 11:17:09 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
<<
Listers
I need to get my car up onto a lift for a day to detail the undercarriage.
The problem is that every garage I talk to says they have "insurance issues"
that won't allow them to rent me time on their lift. Is there a reliable
and safe way to lift the car which would give me clear access short of
renting time at a service station lift (which appears to not be an option).
For instance, are portable ramps a worthwhile investment and will they give
me enough clearance to clean gunk and spray paint? Your collective wisdom
is appreciated. Randy >>
Two possible answers. The hard way and the easy way. The hard way is to find
a level piece of concrete that won't be the worse for a little staining.
Then you get a very good sturdy set of four jack stands and put it up on the
stands -- you need to put one end up at the lowest height, then raise the
other end up to the highest your jack will do and put jack stands under that,
then raise the first set up.. You can usually get a good eighteen inches of
clearance, which is enough for you to slide around under the car on a
creeper. Then put on your oldest clothes, a pair of safety glasses, and
rubber gloves, and go after it with Simple Green and one of the Gunk
products, with some sturdy brushes.
The easier way is to find a foreign car specialist shop who'll let you go
under the car on their lift; but that may be impossible due to the insurance
liability issues.
I don't think that the standard ramps will work because the car's take-off
clearance isn't sufficient to drive it up onto most regular ramps.
Course, for about $1800 you can buy a portable lift, or for about $3500 you
can buy a permanent lift.
Cheers
Gary
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 12:52:15 -0700
Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
The Fairgrounds.
-
From Dmrams at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:15:44 EDT
Subject: Ribcase Trans
My ribcase trans (Sprite) only goes into reverse fully if I really slam the
lever. Otherwise a partial (grrr) shift is all I get. The trans is out right
now and through the inspection cover I can see the fork. It has full range of
motion, but doesn't seem to move all the way without whacking the lever.
Any thoughts or experiences?
Doug 60 AN5
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:22:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting under the car
In a message dated 5/15/00 3:51:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> Course, for about $1800 you can buy a portable lift, or for about $3500 you
> can buy a permanent lift.
And for a mere $1K or so you can buy a Kwik-Lift--a ramp where the front legs
are permanent and back legs fold down. You just driver the car onto it and
raise it up with a floor jack under an arched cross-beam. I have one and my
car lives on it, permanently faced uphill! It takes about three minutes to
raise or lower the lift with the car in place. I think it is great! Find
it online under the name Kwiklift or drop me an email and I will see if I can
dig out the address. It is a first-class product.
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
1955 BN1 (w/a very clean undercarraige!)
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 06:48:09 +1000
Subject: Re BN1 Front guard
Thanks to all those who responded, while it looks like a definitive
answer eludes us, we have at least learned that a Healey has guards,
Wings were a Paul McCartney Band, and a Fender either an ornate neck
lace in Elvis's case, or a thing of beauty in the hands of Jimmy Page.
Oh and those Rubber Mudguards are Mud Flaps, chaps!
Larry Varley
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:54:39 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
Hi Bill and Kathy,
Although it is easier to get to the fuel pump when the seat pan is
removed, removing the 4 small nuts that hold the pan in is harder than
removing the pump.
You can work through the wheel opening after removing the right rear
wheel.
I would recommend a new pump which have been substantially improved,
although we and other companies do rebuild the original units.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Bill Martin wrote:
> I think my fuel pump on a late MkIII has gone bad.
> The book says it's under the right seat pan, and
> mentions lifting out the pan to get to the pump. Mine
> doesn't want to lift. Anyone have a clue how to get
> in there? Do people generally rebuild these pumps,
> replace them new or replace them with rebuilds?
>
> Thanx, Kathy Martin
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:09:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Re BN1 Front guard
Sorry to bring this up again, but ....
IMHO if the factory parts book describes a Fender, Guard or whatever as
a Wing .... It is a WING. ...not a Fender, Guard or whatever.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Larry Varley wrote:
> Thanks to all those who responded, while it looks like a definitive
> answer eludes us, we have at least learned that a Healey has guards,
> Wings were a Paul McCartney Band, and a Fender either an ornate neck
> lace in Elvis's case, or a thing of beauty in the hands of Jimmy Page.
> Oh and those Rubber Mudguards are Mud Flaps, chaps!
> Larry Varley
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:01:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Dixon Show on next Sunday
I'd go ..... but Mrs. Peel is feeling a bit ornery.
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:54:05 EDT
Subject: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
Hi Listers,
There has been some communications about the carbs and also about a Healey
running irregular when hot. My question is about my 100/6, 57 BN4. Did it
come with a heat shield? At one time, I called Inan of Healey Surgeons and
she said it did not. I too, am having sputtering during the hot weather. If
I drive during the day to the meet, it sputters, but in the evening when
cooler, it runs just great. I saw the suggestion about loosening the gas cap
and will try that. But what about the heat shield?
Rudy in NC
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:58:32 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
In a message dated 5/15/00 12:47:01 PM, Drtrite@aol.com writes:
<< Put a rag over
the spline to keep grease off you. >>
You can always use a medium Starbucks paper coffee cup to cover your splines.
Cheers
Gary
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:09:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Re BN1 Front guard
Here we go again. Separated by a common language. Looks like the pomeys are
having the last laugh after all (laff for the left coasters) .
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 1:48 PM
Subject: Re BN1 Front guard
>
> Thanks to all those who responded, while it looks like a definitive
> answer eludes us, we have at least learned that a Healey has guards,
> Wings were a Paul McCartney Band, and a Fender either an ornate neck
> lace in Elvis's case, or a thing of beauty in the hands of Jimmy Page.
> Oh and those Rubber Mudguards are Mud Flaps, chaps!
> Larry Varley
>
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:19:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Dixon Show on next Sunday
Try southwest of where you are (25 miles) just off I-80. If you go towards
San Francisco on I-80, it's about 10 miles west of Davis. You do know where
Davis is don't you?
Happy Hunting. Be sure you have a full tank.
Ron.
----- Original Message -----
From: Pagel, John <John.Pagel@imotors.com>
To: 'Ledwith, Ryan S' <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
>
> Where in Dixon?
> JP, Sacramento, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ledwith, Ryan S [mailto:ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 12:11 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Dixon Show on next Sunday
>
>
>
> Are you going to wear your official Healey List hat?
>
> I got mine!
>
> Ryan
> 64 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Costanzo [mailto:costan0@attglobal.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 1:42 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Dixon Show on next Sunday
>
>
>
> If anybody on the list is coming to the Dixon show (By Davis Ca, ) this
> Sunday, please introduce yourself to two of us on the list. Ken Freeze
and
> Jerry Costanzo will be there working the event. I should be at the front
> gate doing car check-in starting at 0700 am. There are already about 80
> cars pre-registered and we have been getting about 140 total entries.
> There were also be a swap meet.
>
>
> Jerry
> BN4,TR3A
From David Smith <dssmith1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:18:38 -0700
Subject: Safety equipment
I'm looking for some safety equipment for my '67 BJ8. Specifically, I
appreciate suggestions, recommendations, information, and sources for
seat belts and roll bars. I'd like this for both 3-point and 4-point
safety harnesses. What I think I want in the way of a roll bar is like
that found on the Porsche Boxster, where the bar juts up only around the
head of the passenger and driver, and which would fit under the top when
it's up. Does anyone know of a company that could fabricate such a roll
bar for my Healey? Can anyone direct me to a good source for safety
harnesses, including directions for installing them in a healey? Any
and all advice would be deeply apprciated.
David Smith
Seal Beach, CA
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 18:17:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting under the car
I have also heard that Saturn dealerships will steam clean the underside of
your car. Never bothered to ask, but I'd consider doing that first, then
going under the car with the jack stands.
My car is a lost cause, and I figure that all that gunk is acting as a
preservative.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 06:13:36 -0400
Subject: carbs/ fuel pump/shroud
With the engine in the car I put the exhaust manifold on first then the intake,
then the carbs. To get the carbs on I used a stubby 1/2 in wrench that has a
slight angle to it. It is my favorite wrench, and can get to places that no
other can. You have to get yourself in some weird positions to get the carbs
bolted down tight. My carbs had to be put on together, then tightened up. I
think if my throttle linkage was 1/8 in shorter I could have put one carb on at
a time. I used NAPA never-sieze on all the studs, it is a copper compound.
The fuel pump can be seen by taking off the passenger side rear wheel. I
rebuilt mine twice. My car still sputtered over 2000 rpm, and I put a solid
state pump on, attached to the front crossmember. It works great. Sometimes I
can hear the Lucas one, sometimes I cannot.
The front shroud is best left to professionals. The guy who did mine did a
better job than I ever could have imagined. He is in Stonington CT. and very
reasonable.
From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 18:27:24 -0400
Subject: RE: cough,sputter etc.
Eyvind,
It could possibly be that the valve clearances are adjusted to tight.
Richard
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net]On Behalf Of Eyvind Larssen
> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 12:28 PM
> To: Healey
> Subject: cough,sputter etc.
>
>
>
> Listers,
> I need some ideas, something to rectify or look for etc.
> My car, when cold, has no problems accelertating up to 4000
> rpms.... then.. at approx. 160 F..it will not exceed 3500 rpms.
> Getting even hotter.. abt. 175 F..... it will not get past 3000
> rpms...... at 190 F... it will not get past 2000-2500 rpms. Now,
> I have changed all components in the ignition-system.
> It does not help to play with the choke..(giving it more gas..)
> Any ideas out there?
>
> Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
>
>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:50:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Safety equipment
David,
I don't live there anymore, but look in the yellow pages for a place in
Garden Grove that does race car fabrication. I think they specialize in roll
bars and roll cages. Alternativly try Beauchamp Fabrications in Santa Ana.
He can make anything along that line as well.
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: David Smith [mailto:dssmith1@home.com]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 3:19 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Safety equipment
I'm looking for some safety equipment for my '67 BJ8. Specifically, I
appreciate suggestions, recommendations, information, and sources for
seat belts and roll bars. I'd like this for both 3-point and 4-point
safety harnesses. What I think I want in the way of a roll bar is like
that found on the Porsche Boxster, where the bar juts up only around the
head of the passenger and driver, and which would fit under the top when
it's up. Does anyone know of a company that could fabricate such a roll
bar for my Healey? Can anyone direct me to a good source for safety
harnesses, including directions for installing them in a healey? Any
and all advice would be deeply apprciated.
David Smith
Seal Beach, CA
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 18:55:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
My BN4 has a heat shield. It is just metal, no asbestos and I have every
reason to believe it is original. I have the gallery inlet manifold. Scott.
Scott McPherson
BN4L, BT7(for sale)
From "Coop1 at DNAI" <coop1@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:58:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Getting under the car
Thanks for the advice but steam cleaning might be overkill. Actually, she's
pretty darned clean under there. I figure two hours max to really do a
thorough clean up. The real bugger is the Monza muffler. It has turned
oxidation orange over the years and needs to be wire brushed and painted
black w/BBQ paint.
Randy Harris
> I have also heard that Saturn dealerships will steam clean the >underside
of
> your car. Never bothered to ask, but I'd consider doing that first, then
> going under the car with the jack stands.
>
> My car is a lost cause, and I figure that all that gunk is acting as a
> preservative.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:48:20 +1000
Subject: Spridget Newsletter
A while ago on the spridget list there was some lamenting the loss of
Rick Moses' Sprite newsletter. At the time I mentioned another spridget
newsletter put out by Ray English. I have finally gotten around to scanning
an issue (2nd Q 2000) of his newsletter "Marque One" and putting it up
on the www.
Here is what Sprite legend John Sprinzel had to say about Ray and his
newsletter:
"I am so pleased that you are putting Ray's letter on the web. He is such a
quiet guy who not only has the greatest "Sprite" knowledge of anyone I know,
but
devotes his life to his magnificent Sprite "Museum". As one of the first
true
Sprite enthusiasts in Australia, he has owned his early version for a long
time, successfully raced it, and ran one of the earliest tuning shops
specializing in the marque. He is certainly the first person I turn to for
information when I research an article."
So, you should check out
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/marqueone/
and hopefully subscribe! His newsletters are full of stuff you'll never find
elsewhere,
especially reprints from his amazing memorabilia collection.
I have no financial interest whatsoever, I am just a satisfied subscriber.
Mike
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:31:44 -0400
Subject: cleaning vinyl
Randy,
I've found the best way to clean vinyl is to use Maguires' vinyl and
leather cleaner and a stiff wooden type of brush. this cleaner will not
leave the vinyl shiny like Armour all and not greasy feeling.
Happy cleaning ( I've got to do it too!)
Carroll (Top Down Restorations)
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:48:22 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
"Put a rag over the spline to keep grease off you" Another tip....put the
knock off back on, that helps as well. But I still manage...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <martin_93555@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
>
> In a message dated 5/15/2000 14:22:11 Central Daylight Time,
> martin_93555@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << I think my fuel pump on a late MkIII has gone bad.
> The book says it's under the right seat pan, and
> mentions lifting out the pan to get to the pump. Mine
> doesn't want to lift. Anyone have a clue how to get
> in there? Do people generally rebuild these pumps,
> replace them new or replace them with rebuilds? >>
>
> Just put a new fuel pump in my BJ8 last week. You can replace it by taking
> the passenger rear tire off and working from the fender well. Put a rag
over
> the spline to keep grease off you. I went with a NEW unit, neg ground.
Don't
> forget to get new gaskets for the fitting, same as banjo's on carbs.
>
> To get rear seat out there should be four nuts on studs that are welded to
> underside of seat.
>
> Good luck
> Don
>
> Have you visited the NTAHC web site yet? <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com>
>
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:18:44 -0700
Subject: around the world into Azerbaijan
Hi Guys
Everyone managed to get up in time to start the days driving to catch the
ferry, some had even managed to get a cabin to get some more sleep after the
days rally duties! Most however had to put up with chairs. From what we are
told most people are so tired now that it does not matter that much.
The currency to use (if problems are to be avoided is the good old US $,
people were surprised at the cost of living here, everything is so cheap (3
ice creams and a full tank of gas for only $5. The rest of the day involved
ferry and border crossing paperwork so nothing much to report there. The
Hunts in Team Healey car 83 have had to have some welding done when as weld
broke loose on the rear axle, the exhaust problem is now solved and all the
brakes are working for the moment. These cars are certainly getting some
punishment.
I now have some pictures that I will post to our website, they come courtesy
of Hillyard.co.uk and the people on the event and the rally organizers. I
will tip you off when the are posted.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:03:53 -0700
Subject: Distributor
Listers,
I have a distributor that needs to be rebuilt. Does anyone have
suggestions for a reliable source? Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:21:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Order of manifold/carb installation
You will need to install at least the rear exhaust manifold (loosely)
before you install the engine. There isn't much clearance in that
corner of the engine compartment.
As far as the rest of the setup is concerned, I installed the manifolds
and carbs separately. I found that the exhaust manifold needed be
a bit loose in order to line up the holes for the bolts which hold the
intake and exhaust manifolds together.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: James Sailer <sailer@srv.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 9:59 AM
Subject: Order of manifold/carb installation
>
> Greetings listfellows.
>
> Picked up my completed motor friday and have been finishing the detailing
> and minor componenet assembly. I'll slip the mated engine and trans in
> later this week (cherry picker with angling attachment) and wanted to get
> consensus on the attachment order for the carbs. That is, 1. attach
> manifolds then carbs, 2, attach carbs to manifold and then install?
>
> Getting pretty excited about this. Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8
>
>
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:31:41 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
It's pretty easy to get at it by just removing the right rear wheel.
I tried rebuilding mine, replacing the points, diode, and diaphram,
but I continued to have problems with it and eventually replaced it
with a new one.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Martin <martin_93555@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 3:15 PM
Subject: BJ8 FUEL PUMP
>
> I think my fuel pump on a late MkIII has gone bad.
> The book says it's under the right seat pan, and
> mentions lifting out the pan to get to the pump. Mine
> doesn't want to lift. Anyone have a clue how to get
> in there? Do people generally rebuild these pumps,
> replace them new or replace them with rebuilds?
>
> Thanx, Kathy Martin
>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:03:11 +0100
Subject: BN1 front guard (wing)
Gary
Just to add that I have seen many of these pressed and filled "stiffner"
arrangements on the rear wheel arch of front wings. I had four of them
myself at one time.
I can also confirm that this often was only found on one side of the
car.
>While trying to decide which of the two front left guards I have is
>worth trying to repair, I noticed that one of the guards has a groove
>swaged into it along the style of the 3000 guard, where the swage
>follows the wheel arch around the front wheel arch. The level of the
>panel is the same on both sides of the groove and it has been filled in
>with lead, the groove itself is about 5/16 wide and 1/8 deep and has
>about a 1 inch radius where it turns from the horizontal to follow the
>wheel arch about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It is a BN1 guard as it has
>the smaller wheel arch. Anyone seen a guard like this before?
>Larry Varley >>
>
>Hey -- you win the prize -- we've only seen this type of fender twice in the
>U.S. but are certain of its authenticity. We're just not sure why it was
>done. We can only speculate they were trying out the swage line for
>strengthening purposes, or as a styling exercise and decided not to continue,
>but were left with the fenders, so leaded them in and sold them as
>replacement parts or used them in production. They are noted in the Concours
>Guidelines with a picture. Contact Alan Alfano aalfano02@snet.net for
>additional info.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
--
John Harper
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 18:03:42 +1000
Subject: Re: Removing "patina" from vinyl interior
I have found the best thing to clean vinyl is pre-wash stain remover. (The
stuff in the laundry you squirt on stains on clothes before washing. The
main brand in Oz is "Preen")
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: "Austin Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 16 May 2000 3:53
Subject: Removing "patina" from vinyl interior
>
> My '66 interior is mostly original and in very good shape - but, the dk
blue
> vinyl on the door panels, arm rest, tonneau and dash console have a brown
> tinge or stain to them (assumed from years of exposure). Has anyone found
> an effective way of restoring the vinyl to it's former color? I've tried
> various cleaners laying around the house to no avail. Thanks
> Randy Harris (BJ8)
>
>
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 07:49:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
Rudy in NC , et al:
I just had to respond to this, for my own edification if nothing else.
Last week I had the opportunity to get 2000 gal of 100 octane/leaded nice
blue AVGAS....for free..yes!
Well I had to try it in the 100.
What a revelation! No more run on, and no stumble after restart when hot.
Only thing I can guess is that perhaps the head temp is a bit lower than
with pump gas. ?? Or the crap we're paying all this money for now is
actually reformulated hog wash.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
>
> Hi Listers,
> There has been some communications about the carbs and also about a Healey
> running irregular when hot. My question is about my 100/6, 57 BN4. Did
it
> come with a heat shield? At one time, I called Inan of Healey Surgeons
and
> she said it did not. I too, am having sputtering during the hot weather.
If
> I drive during the day to the meet, it sputters, but in the evening when
> cooler, it runs just great. I saw the suggestion about loosening the gas
cap
> and will try that. But what about the heat shield?
> Rudy in NC
>
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 10:28:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Cylinder Head Design
>
>Over the years I had thought I had seen most things in Austin-Healeys but over
>the weekend I saw a car that has me stumped. (Australian for not knowing and
>is
>derived from a cricketing term. Cricket is a sport to you unbelievers in the
>US.)
>
>Anyway I was visited on Saturday by a chap in his BN1. The car was quite used
>around the edges but he was very happy with it. Which is all that matters.
>
>I had a close look at the engine and in particular the cylinder head.
>
I am fairly sure that this is a 2.2 or 2.5 litre petrol engine or at
least the head is. As you will know the large 4 cylinder engine survived
BMC's attempts to scrap it during rationalisation and it returned to
provide a petrol engine for vehicles such as the London Taxi, Gypsy
(4x4) and many other smaller commercial vehicles. The last vehicle to
which these were fitted was the "EA" van.
The diesel version survived much longer but was modified in many
respects so that few parts can be used on a 100.
However the petrol engine can be used and although the valve gear is
slightly different this area is all interchangable. The main difference
to watch out for is on later engines where the crankshaft is different.
The flange which mates with the flywheel is entirely different. It is
not really a flange anymore, more of a spigot. A "proper" oil seal will
go over this spigot into a normal housing mounted on the rear of the
block.
I know quite a few people who have the head from one of these engines on
their 100. This incidentally includes Bic's son Johnathan. We have found
a water outlet which gives the correct angle for the top hose. All that
is needed to complete the job is to fit a screwed plug into the unused
water pump bypass hole.
We have carried out some rough measurements of head capacity and have
found that the compression ratio stays around 7.5:1 in both cases. Inlet
valves might be smaller but these can be opened out. Running with
smaller valves seems to produce a slightly less smooth running engine
but this is subjective. In normal use performance seems to be about the
same.
>At first glance it looked quite normal but it had a bypass hose from the
>larger
>sized thermostat bowl/housing to the top of the water pump. The thermostat
>cover
>was also different in that it was located by only three holes instead of the
>normal four and was more like that from the 'C' Series engine. There were two
>locating bolts for the distributor
>but one for the tach drive.
This is the only thing that confuses me. There was no provision on this
engine for a mechanical tacho. At the top of the oil pump shaft there
was simple large screwed plug. This was exactly the same as the one used
lower down to cover the end of the distributor shaft. Incidentally one
owner I know has got around this by "hiding" an electric tacho mechanism
inside the 100 tacho case.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 08:00:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
What a deal, "FREE"
I put 4 gal of 110 racing fuel in my Healey at Buttonwillow two weeks ago
and drove the track. Yes quite a boost. The 110 cost $5.00/gal. 5 x 2,000=
$10,000.00. even a better deal.
Years and Years ago while in the USAF I had unlimited access to 115/145
avegas.
Usually mixed 1/2 and 1/2, sometimes pure in my 60BT7, thought I was a
rocket scientist
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: <CAWS52803@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
>
> Rudy in NC , et al:
>
> I just had to respond to this, for my own edification if nothing else.
> Last week I had the opportunity to get 2000 gal of 100 octane/leaded nice
> blue AVGAS....for free..yes!
> Well I had to try it in the 100.
> What a revelation! No more run on, and no stumble after restart when
hot.
> Only thing I can guess is that perhaps the head temp is a bit lower than
> with pump gas. ?? Or the crap we're paying all this money for now is
> actually reformulated hog wash.
>
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> click below for pictures
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 3:54 PM
> Subject: Manifolds, carbs & now heat shield!
>
>
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> > There has been some communications about the carbs and also about a
Healey
> > running irregular when hot. My question is about my 100/6, 57 BN4. Did
> it
> > come with a heat shield? At one time, I called Inan of Healey Surgeons
> and
> > she said it did not. I too, am having sputtering during the hot
weather.
> If
> > I drive during the day to the meet, it sputters, but in the evening when
> > cooler, it runs just great. I saw the suggestion about loosening the
gas
> cap
> > and will try that. But what about the heat shield?
> > Rudy in NC
> >
>
From LSheeley at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:32:07 EDT
Subject: Healey List hat
Ryan wrote:
>Are you going to wear your official Healey List hat?
>I got mine!
>Ryan
>64 BJ7
I haven't posted in a while, but with car show season starting up
it is a good time to mention to newcomers to the list that there is
an official Healey List Hat to identify you to others at car shows that
you are a list member.
For a photo and details including cost and mailing info, go to:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6526/healey.html
thanks
Lynn Sheeley
The List Hat Guy
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:56:44 EDT
Subject: Cleaning Side Curtian Glass
Hi All,
I need to clean the persplex/(or what ever kind of plastic glass is in Moss
side curtains) in my side curtains in preperation for the Sierra Passes Tour.
Somewhere I recall reading that I shouldn't use Windex or ammonia based
cleaner on it, just soapy water. Any truth to this, or did I dream this?
What is the best way to clean it and hopefully remove some of the cloudiness
and restore some of the clarity?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:30:52 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Safety equipment
In a message dated 5/15/00 4:04:20 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<
David,
I don't live there anymore, but look in the yellow pages for a place in
Garden Grove that does race car fabrication. I think they specialize in roll
bars and roll cages. Alternativly try Beauchamp Fabrications in Santa Ana.
He can make anything along that line as well.
Ken Freese >>
Rather than the Boxter style roll-bars, you might consider the style that Len
Hartnett had installed in his BJ8 in England in the late sixties. (It is the
BJ8 on the cover of the new book). That roll bar consisted of two
flat-topped hoops, one hoop fastening to the frame rails just behind the
seats (uprights vertical) and the second hoop fastening to the frame rails
further back, projecting up at an angle and meeting the first at the top. The
horizontal portions of both hoops are welded together. The nice touch was
that the bars were covered with vinyl such that the roll bar from the side
has a triangular shape that looks more like a styling feature than a roll bar.
Cheers
Gary
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:44:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning Side Curtian Glass
In a message dated 5/16/2000 9:20:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< Hi All,
I need to clean the persplex/(or what ever kind of plastic glass is in Moss
side curtains) in my side curtains in preperation for the Sierra Passes Tour.
Somewhere I recall reading that I shouldn't use Windex or ammonia based
cleaner on it, just soapy water. Any truth to this, or did I dream this?
What is the best way to clean it and hopefully remove some of the cloudiness
and restore some of the clarity?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
>>
John, go to your local motorcycle dealer and pick up a can of Plexus. You'll
like it!
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:48:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Cleaning Side Curtian Glass
In a message dated 5/16/00 9:14:23 AM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<<
Hi All,
I need to clean the persplex/(or what ever kind of plastic glass is in Moss
side curtains) in my side curtains in preperation for the Sierra Passes Tour.
Somewhere I recall reading that I shouldn't use Windex or ammonia based
cleaner on it, just soapy water. Any truth to this, or did I dream this?
What is the best way to clean it and hopefully remove some of the cloudiness
and restore some of the clarity? >>
Meguiar's makes a great plastic polish and plastic cleaner (one will polish
out minor scratches, the other just cleans and shines). Also work well on
soft top windows. Should be available at most places that sell good auto
detailing products --
And definitely ditto on Armorall products. Most have a sealant that makes
them too shiny when applied, and contributes to yellowing and cracking later
on because air can't get in and material can't breath.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
editor, British Car Magazine
From "Brad Weldon" <bweldon at georgefox.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:52:54 -0700
Subject: RE: RE: Safety equipment
You can get -some- view of it at:
http://www.healey.org/new-book.shtml
Brad
55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 09:31 AM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: RE: Safety equipment
In a message dated 5/15/00 4:04:20 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<
David,
I don't live there anymore, but look in the yellow pages for a place in
Garden Grove that does race car fabrication. I think they specialize in roll
bars and roll cages. Alternativly try Beauchamp Fabrications in Santa Ana.
He can make anything along that line as well.
Ken Freese >>
Rather than the Boxter style roll-bars, you might consider the style that
Len
Hartnett had installed in his BJ8 in England in the late sixties. (It is the
BJ8 on the cover of the new book). That roll bar consisted of two
flat-topped hoops, one hoop fastening to the frame rails just behind the
seats (uprights vertical) and the second hoop fastening to the frame rails
further back, projecting up at an angle and meeting the first at the top.
The
horizontal portions of both hoops are welded together. The nice touch was
that the bars were covered with vinyl such that the roll bar from the side
has a triangular shape that looks more like a styling feature than a roll
bar.
Cheers
Gary
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:32:42 PDT
Subject: RE: RE: Safety equipment
Brad,Suggest Kirk Racing, Birmingham, Alabamba. They built a bolt-in
semi-custom(SCCA approved w/a cross bar for a Simpson shoulder harness and
still clear my soft top). Unit fit like a glove and is removeable. I then
had it powder coated to match my Minilites. Looks good and I have less than
$600 in the project. I had a local fab shop quote me over $1000 for the same
bar. Hope you never have to test it.
Keep-em on the ground,Terry
Modified BN7
>From: "Brad Weldon" <bweldon@georgefox.edu>
>Reply-To: "Brad Weldon" <bweldon@georgefox.edu>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: RE: Safety equipment
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:52:54 -0700
>
>You can get -some- view of it at:
>http://www.healey.org/new-book.shtml
>
>Brad
>55 bn1
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
>Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 09:31 AM
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: RE: Safety equipment
>
>
>
>
>In a message dated 5/15/00 4:04:20 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
>
><<
>David,
>I don't live there anymore, but look in the yellow pages for a place in
>Garden Grove that does race car fabrication. I think they specialize in
>roll
>bars and roll cages. Alternativly try Beauchamp Fabrications in Santa Ana.
>He can make anything along that line as well.
>Ken Freese >>
>
>Rather than the Boxter style roll-bars, you might consider the style that
>Len
>Hartnett had installed in his BJ8 in England in the late sixties. (It is
>the
>BJ8 on the cover of the new book). That roll bar consisted of two
>flat-topped hoops, one hoop fastening to the frame rails just behind the
>seats (uprights vertical) and the second hoop fastening to the frame rails
>further back, projecting up at an angle and meeting the first at the top.
>The
>horizontal portions of both hoops are welded together. The nice touch was
>that the bars were covered with vinyl such that the roll bar from the side
>has a triangular shape that looks more like a styling feature than a roll
>bar.
>Cheers
>Gary
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:46:28 -0700
Subject: Rear Shock
Hello List,
I bought two new rear shocks but the amount of resistance does not
match. The stiff shock takes about twice the effort to move the lever
arm. I figured there was an air block due to shipping so I mounted the
shock body to the frame and worked the lever about 50 times now (took
out the back seat for access). Also opened the fill plug to see if that
would help. Another potential clue: twice the resistance went completely
away for one stroke (bad valve?)
Anyone else run into this? Anything else to try or just return it?
Thanks for any advice,
John Loftus
BJ7
From Mike Murphy <evmurph at zetnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:05:03 +0100
Subject: For sale, in the UK: 3000 Mk1
Hi all,
This car has been owned by me since the 1970's. I took it off the road
to restore it and it has been garage stored all the time. It is suitable
for restoration by someone with a lot more time and money than I
currently have available.
Here's some details:
Austin Healey 3000 type BN7
first registered July 1959
Rare two seat version
Black with red interior
Laid up since 1979 (garaged)
Off side rear wing removed to inspect extent of rust.
Requires full chassis and body restoration but has low mileage (although
the speedo packed up a little while before it was laid up).
Five good Pirelli tyres on wire wheels
Two owners from new.
For similar reasons I also have for sale:
Austin Healey Sprite Mk 4 type HAN9
first registered July 1968
British racing green with black interior
Disk wheels.
Part dismantled for restoration:
Hood and all interior trim removed, front wings, grill, valance etc and
bonnet removed but engine, gearbox and braking system still in place.
It has some rust but is repairable.
It requires a full restoration.
Spares include:
New, un-used 3.9:1 differential (car has the 4.2) and competition
anti-roll bar.
Both cars are located in South Hampshire.
To find out more, or arrange to view either car please email me
direct at:
evmurph@zetnet.co.uk
Happy Healeying
- Mike
Mike Murphy
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:18:59 +1000
Subject: Club Web Page
Hello All
I have just produced a small web Site for my local Healey club, the
Austin Healey Owners Club of Victoria, here in Australia. Links to it on
other club sites would be appreciated.
The address is
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/AHOC/
Thanks
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 18:25:26 EDT
Subject: Lenam Healey
Hi,
I'm looking into gathering some information for a gentleman who's requested
some information on a Lenam Healey. Is this familiar to anyone on the list?
If so, could you please provide me with some information?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 18:57:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing "patina" from vinyl interior
In a message dated 05/16/2000 4:21:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gregbankin@primus.com.au writes:
<< I have found the best thing to clean vinyl is pre-wash stain remover. >>
A weak solution of houshold bleach works well as a precleaner too. Remember
WEAK!
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 19:05:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Safety equipment
In a message dated 05/16/2000 1:34:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
tvett68@hotmail.com writes:
<< (SCCA approved w/a cross bar for a Simpson shoulder harness >>
And THAT, folks, says it all. Not saying that some shop can't do a 'fine'
job, BUT...............?!?!? -not in my car, not over my head-
Besides, just being curious, if not racing; WHY??
Cheers...........
Ed
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 16:13:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
My BN1 has car/chassis number BN1-L/149928
Body Number 1086
Built 14 December 1953
(heritage archive information)
one would assume that the body number 4284 was later
Norm Cay
BN1, BN2, MKII Jag
John Harper wrote:
> Joe
>
> We have in our 100 Register the next chasssis number to this one
>
> BN1
> Chassis 140218
> Batch/Body 4284 70
> First registered 6 August 1953
> Hence this car was built earlier than this.
>
> It is rather misleading to try and consider chassis number at this
> period of manufacture because they were shared with other models such as
> the A70 Hereford.
>
> It is better to consider body numbers because these were unique to the
> 100 and although they were not allocated to finished cars in exact
> sequence they are are still a good indication of how many 100s were
> built over a given period of time.
> >
> >Has this chassis number been submitted to the BMIHT for a certificate? "The
> >Healey Story" by Geoffrey Healey indicates chassis from 138031 to 233456 were
> >built at Longbridge. Also, the BMIHT certificate for my car, which is
>chassis
> >number 149673, was built December 9, 1953. It does not seem logical that a
>gap
> >of 9,456 chassis numbers should exist between cars built in September and
> >December. Joe Elmer.
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:43:58 EDT
Subject: Kwiklift
To those folks who emailed me wanting to know how to get more information on
the Kwiklift, their website address is: http://www.kwiklift.com/
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
1955 BN1.
From "Daniel Frakes" <dfrakes at homer.walshcol.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:01:26 -0400
Subject: BN2 Overriders
Greetings
I am looking for some original overriders for a 1956 BN2. If anyone has
any they would like to get rid of please contact me off-line.
Thanks
Dan Frakes
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:34:21 -0400
Subject: Overheating 100
I still have the problem on my 100 of overheating at road speeds. My
mechanic advises an auxiliary fan.
in front of the radiator to increase air flow. Word has it that the fan
will restrict flow to the radiator due to
its bulk in front of the radiator? I would appreciate any advise on this.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 23:10:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
Joe,
I can't say for sure on the 100. However, I tried an extra electric fan in
front of the radiator on my TR3. I found that I had to run it almost all the
time so it did not slow down the incoming air. I eventually removed it,
installed some air deflectors in front of the radiator, and recurved the fan
blades to provide more flow. After that I never had another overheating
problem again...even sitting still in traffic.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 02:10:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
In a message dated 05/16/2000 4:29:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
normcay@earthlink.net writes:
<< My BN1 has car/chassis number BN1-L/149928
Body Number 1086
Built 14 December 1953
(heritage archive information)
one would assume that the body number 4284 was later
Norm Cay
BN1, BN2, MKII Jag >>
Norm
The number 4284 that John Harper listed is the Batch Number with 70 being the
Body Number. This makes the car 1016 numbers earlier than your car. There
were always two numbers on the 100 listing both the Batch/Body e.g. 4284/70.
I believe there were at least 100 to possibly 200 cars per batch.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1
Batch/Body - 5179/7197
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:15:28 -0600
Subject: Supplier of SU Electronic Fuel Pump
Greetings all.
Was searching around for an SU electronic negative earth fuel pump. Anyone
know a US vendor that not only offers them but has them in stock?
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:09:29 -0400
Subject: leather cleaner and conditioner
Can anybody recommend a good leather cleaner and conditioner that
they've used ?? I have afew cars with
leather seat and I'm looking for something that works good.....Thanks
Todd..
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:28:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
Have you tried a through cleaning of the block and head? Adding fan capacity
may get the temperature down at the sensor but if iron nodules or deposites
are causing the problem, there could still be local hot spots that eventually
could cause distortions even though the temp appears under control.
Joseph Smathers wrote:
> I still have the problem on my 100 of overheating at road speeds. My
> mechanic advises an auxiliary fan.
> in front of the radiator to increase air flow. Word has it that the fan
> will restrict flow to the radiator due to
> its bulk in front of the radiator? I would appreciate any advise on this.
> Best Regards, Joe
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:33:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Supplier of SU Electronic Fuel Pump
In a message dated 5/17/2000 08:23:22 Central Daylight Time, sailer@srv.net
writes:
<< Was searching around for an SU electronic negative earth fuel pump. Anyone
know a US vendor that not only offers them but has them in stock? >>
Jim,
Try <justbrits@aol.com> he can help you.
Don
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 08:55:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
Joe,
First thing I check on a Healey is the ign. timing. If too much retarded, it
will overheat quickly under road speed loads. Look at the general condition
of the cooling system next.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: Overheating 100
>
>
> I still have the problem on my 100 of overheating at road speeds. My
> mechanic advises an auxiliary fan.
> in front of the radiator to increase air flow. Word has it that the fan
> will restrict flow to the radiator due to
> its bulk in front of the radiator? I would appreciate any advise on this.
> Best Regards, Joe
> 1955 100
> 1960 3000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 08:27:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
Thanks for the clarification, I was not aware of that.
Norm
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 05/16/2000 4:29:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> normcay@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << My BN1 has car/chassis number BN1-L/149928
> Body Number 1086
> Built 14 December 1953
> (heritage archive information)
> one would assume that the body number 4284 was later
> Norm Cay
> BN1, BN2, MKII Jag >>
>
> Norm
>
> The number 4284 that John Harper listed is the Batch Number with 70 being the
> Body Number. This makes the car 1016 numbers earlier than your car. There
> were always two numbers on the 100 listing both the Batch/Body e.g. 4284/70.
> I believe there were at least 100 to possibly 200 cars per batch.
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1
> Batch/Body - 5179/7197
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 08:50:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Kwiklift
Absolutely fantastic. A perfect solution. As bonus, my neighbor (restores
Italian exotics) has agreed to go 1/2 and 1/2. Now can anyone tell me where
to locate a floor jack?
Thanks Randy
>
> To those folks who emailed me wanting to know how to get more information
on
> the Kwiklift, their website address is: http://www.kwiklift.com/
>
> Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
> 1955 BN1.
>
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 11:55:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
In a message dated 5/16/2000 8:02:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
healey27@mindspring.com writes:
<< I still have the problem on my 100 of overheating at road speeds. My
mechanic advises an auxiliary fan.
in front of the radiator to increase air flow. Word has it that the fan
will restrict flow to the radiator due to
its bulk in front of the radiator? I would appreciate any advise on this.
Best Regards, Joe
>>
Joe, I use an electric fan mounted in front of my radiator with good results.
I don't have a heating problem at road speeds in my 100-6, so I seldom
switch it on. However, I use it if I am sitting in traffic on hot So Cal
days, or pulling a long mountain grade. Works good for me.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Mike Murphy <evmurph at zetnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 17:01:15 +0100
Subject: For sale, in the UK: 3000 Mk1
Hi all,
sorry to post this again but several people emailed me asking about
the car but, because of a bug in my email software (just discovered)
some of them got accidently erased :-(
So, apart from Ed and Colin, whose replies are being dispatched at the
same time as this post, if you sent me such an email I'd appreciate it
if you would re-send and I will reply forthwith. Thanks.
Apologies for any inconvenience.
- Mike
1600gmt 17th May
(My ISP tell me it's a known bug as well ... Grrrr)
=============== Start of forwarded message ===================
Hi all,
This car has been owned by me since the 1970's. I took it off the road
to restore it and it has been garage stored all the time. It is suitable
for restoration by someone with a lot more time and money than I
currently have available.
Here's some details:
Austin Healey 3000 type BN7
first registered July 1959
Rare two seat version
Black with red interior
Laid up since 1979 (garaged)
Off side rear wing removed to inspect extent of rust.
Requires full chassis and body restoration but has low mileage (although
the speedo packed up a little while before it was laid up).
Five good Pirelli tyres on wire wheels
Two owners from new.
For similar reasons I also have for sale:
Austin Healey Sprite Mk 4 type HAN9
first registered July 1968
British racing green with black interior
Disk wheels.
Part dismantled for restoration:
Hood and all interior trim removed, front wings, grill, valance etc and
bonnet removed but engine, gearbox and braking system still in place.
It has some rust but is repairable.
It requires a full restoration.
Spares include:
New, un-used 3.9:1 differential (car has the 4.2) and competition
anti-roll bar.
Both cars are located in South Hampshire.
To find out more, or arrange to view either car please email me
direct at:
evmurph@zetnet.co.uk
Happy Healeying
- Mike
Mike Murphy
=============== End of forwarded message ===================
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 09:01:54 -0700
Subject: BN1 head
Jim, I have not seen a response to your message go by and wondered if
you had
this problem solved.
I had 2 heads and built up the better one for my BN2. the lesser one has
a
couple of cracks in it (repairable) that I would part with somewhat
reluctantly.
Please let me know if you are still in need.
Norm
Jim Lesher wrote:
> I need a replacement for my BN1 cylinder head. I have been told that
mine is
> not repairable. Does anyone have an extra head for a BN1 sitting on a
shelf
> anywhere? or know of someone who has a spare? I know I can get an
aluminum
> replacement for $3,000, but I am looking for a less costly
alternative.
>
> Thanks for your help
> Jim Lesher
> 55 - BN1
> 57 - BN4
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:29:44 -0700
Subject: New Healey Owner Needs Help
> The transport truck arrived and I took possession of my beautiful 100-6.
> Silly grin on my face the whole time.....
>
> I was quickly brought back down to earth as I uncovered a few items that
> need immediate attention.
> Keep in mind that I am a complete novice when it comes to auto mechanics.
> Probably not a great education level to be at when dealing with Healeys!
>
> When I first tried to start the car I found that the choke cable was
> completely unattached to the carbs. It looks like the nut that holds the
> cable is missing and the cable itself looks broken. Not wanting to wait, I
> have been starting the car without adjusting the choke which is no easy
> task. It takes an eternity for the car to start. After about 5 minutes of
> the engine coughing and spitting, it comes to life. Is replacing the cable
> as simple as threading a new one through the firewall and reattaching it?
> Or is there some adjustment involved?
>
> The second item that needs attention is the heater. At the moment it is
> leaking (slowly) into the the passenger compartment
> I've been told that the core needs to be replaced. In the mean time, is
> there an easy was to stop this leaking?
>
> Please help the newbie...
> Ian Nelson
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 14:08:44 EDT
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
I recently picked up some Gliptone leather cleaner and conditioner. WOW! This
stuff is the best. I have always dreamed of using a product that works like I
think it should, and this is the first one that has not left me disappointed.
I used it on my Jag and within a day of application the leather had softened up
enough to let the foam underneath push up and make the seats look and feel
pillowy again. Look at www.leatherique.com and maybe you can find a local
supplier in the US...I had mine shipped from the UK. Worth every penny. Just
a very satisfied customer.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 11:27:54 -0700
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
And as an added touch it smells like real hide...great stuff...Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: <todd.s.taylor@lmco.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
>
> I recently picked up some Gliptone leather cleaner and conditioner. WOW!
This stuff is the best. I have always dreamed of using a product that works
like I think it should, and this is the first one that has not left me
disappointed. I used it on my Jag and within a day of application the
leather had softened up enough to let the foam underneath push up and make
the seats look and feel pillowy again. Look at www.leatherique.com and
maybe you can find a local supplier in the US...I had mine shipped from the
UK. Worth every penny. Just a very satisfied customer.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
>
>
From "Tom Mitchell" <irishman_2 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 15:00:22 EDT
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
wondering if your collective knowledge can help me.
I have rebuilt engine carbs ect. OK OK it know it a MG and this list is
Healey. Problem is my MG runs and my Healey needs a body, that's another
story.
Anyway the MG runs great except when I'm cruising at 70mph. Sometimes when I
let off the gas, the car kinda bogs down for a minute or so. Then as I try
to accelerate, it will gradually pick up (maybe) and boom take off.
I'm going to re-check it out, yet so far it's got me stumped.
at idle and slow running it's fine, it seem only on the highway.
am I getting too much gas, so that would be floats/jets sticking?
or maybe the dampness are binding, oil too thick (using 10 weight) I hear
auto trans fluid works well.
anyway I'm guessing, anyone been threw this and can help me save some time?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
1966 MGB-GT
1966 AH BJ8 (not on the road, yet)
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 14:02:17 -0700
Subject: Around the world or 44 hours on a boat!
Hi Guys
Yes the boat ride across the Caspian sea is a 44 hour journey, Apparently
the water is only 3 fathoms deep, because the sea is rapidly drying up. The
drive down to the boat was over some of the worst road they have seen and
this claimed some suspension systems along the way. The ship also lost tan
engine on the trip but who cares about the ships problems ? !!!
The passport control at the end of the pleasure cruise turned out to be one
guy in a garden shed with some 200 people all needing his services at once
(sounds like fun!) The roads are poor and fuel is in short supply, the
compensation is that the fuel cost almost nothing (two cars filled for $5)
that's even better than Texas prices <grin> The 1939 Ford V8 broke a shocker
mounting off and so did the Lagonda M45, this has slowed them both up a
great deal with the Lagonda losing an hour! They were both supported by the
Xk150S that decided to keep an eye on them to make sure they got to the end.
(This reminds me of a TV ad "you meet the nicest people in a Jaguar").
Remember the Fangio Chevy Coupe with the new gearbox? turns out that he
gearbox was not exactly new, and now slips out of gear. The leader Freddie
Giles took car e of his car on the way to the ferry and in doing so lost 2
mins! So did Dyke-Price and Stu onyett in the Team Healey car, they lost 18
mins bu the car picked up no damage in the process. It would seem that some
people are now starting to think 'long distance rally' and are trying to
keep the cars in one piece.
The Rolls Silver Ghost continues to roll along and take all in it's stride,
maybe the build quality is starting to show up now. The Bentley S2 now
requires new springs bu a local guy at the dock went away and came back with
some that should work from some old truck! Even closer to being "the fastest
lorries in the world" A term associated with the old Bentleys from the
Brooklands days I cannot remember who said that??)
The first car to pull into the hotel on the other side of the Caspian was
none other than our humble MGB. Well done boys.
The car are all now being repaired welded as required for the next
adventure! Some pictures are now available on http://www.waterloo-dtr/p569
Let me know what you think of them! I had no reports to write while they
were on the boat so I made a web page. Isn't technology wonderful!
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Thomas F. Pelandini" <tfp1 at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 12:12:59 -0700
Subject: Brake Shoes
Listers:
I'm rebuilding the brakes on my BN1. The shop manual is quite vague about
removing and replacing the brake shoes. For the fronts it says, 'lift one
shoe out of the abutment slot of one cylinder, then release from the piston
slot of the other. (It will be found quite simple to remove the shoe return
springs.)" For the rears, it says, "Lift the shoes out of the slots in the
adjuster link and wheel cylinder piston. Both shoes can then be removed
complete with springs."
My question is, for the front, do you remove the shoes by prying, or do you
remove the springs first? And if the springs first, is there a tool that
makes this task easier? For the rear, I assume you pry the shoes off with
springs attached. Correct?
Thanks for your help.
Tom Pelandini
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 14:23:10 -0700
Subject: Around the world Pictures
Hi Guys
Oooooooppppppssssssss try
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com/p569
Sorry about that!
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 14:38:46 -0700
Subject: The right link for the ATW pictures Phew!
Yes !!!!! it works!
Give me nuts and bolts anytime!
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com/p569.html
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:42:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Shoes
I always remove the shoes by prying them out of the slots with the springs in
place. BN1 and BN2. Be careful not to overstretch the springs. The
hook-ends want to straighten out.
Jim
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 17:20:36 -0500
Subject: Fuel pump For Sale
To the list:
I ended up with an extra fuel pump in my rebuild. It is a competition
facet fuel pump that I bought from Denis Welch last year. It is still in
the box and never been used. They are much more reliable than the SU pumps.
They are negative ground (earth), so if your car is positive, they have to
be mounted in rubber grommets.
I should like to know if someone on the
list is interested before going to ebay. Thanks. Please contact me
off-line.
Regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 09:35:59 +1000
Subject: Australia Victoria Help
Hi
sorry to bomb all the list, but I need some help from the Victorian guys in
Australia.
I've just bought an Arc welder from Sold.com and need to get it shipped upto
Sydney. Can any one advise a good carrier, and also does anyone live near
Glen Waverley, Vic. who could perhaps pick it up for me from the vendor. I
know its a big ask.
Many thanks.
Graham
Sydney
Oz
P.s
with talk of late of names for the cars i.e The beast. Penelope etc. I've
been trying to think of one for my 100/6. One that came to mind was; Rusty
(hence the arc welder).
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 20:10:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Australia Victoria Help
Graham_Healey@lse.com.au writes:
<< P.s
with talk of late of names for the cars i.e The beast. Penelope etc. I've
been trying to think of one for my 100/6. One that came to mind was; Rusty
(hence the arc welder). >>
How about Ferris? Short for Ferris Oxide.
Richard Gordon
BJ8, BT7, BN1
Collecting toy and miniature Healey's
Sales Literature and Posters, Books,
and anything Healey related.
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 20:14:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
Joe,
I attached a 10" ultra thin fan to the front of the radiator to push air. I
live in Maryland, where the temp is often over 100 degrees and the humidity
is always in the high 90s during the summer months. I found that when every I
knew I was to stop, such as an approaching red light or traffic backup, I
would flip a toggle switch under the dash wired to the fan. Doesn't matter if
it's negative or positive ground read the instructions as to who the fan
should be mounted then. I installed the whole thing including remounting the
hood then read the instructions that said " this fan is setup to pull, if you
want to push pleas reverse the prop.
But by attaching the fan to the radiator you weaken the tubes within the
radiator and bend some cooling fins. I have since removed the fan. The way to
go is to mount the fan onto the car such as to the cross members. I have
order a fan out of the Summit racing equipment catalog
(www.summitracing.com)that seems to have a bracket that will allow me to
mount the fan to the aluminum shroud. I cannot mount the fan to the cross
members because I installed an oil cooler. The summit catalog has quite a few
electric fans to choose from. The first fan I used I bought at Pep Boys and
it worked fine for 3 years.
But first try running a majority of water with Redline's water wetter
additive. I believe this combination will bring the temp down 20 degrees when
the car is moving over 25 mph. Nothing other than a fan will help when the
car is at a stand still.
Jim L
56 BN2
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 20:23:28 EDT
Subject: Disappearing Dashpot oil
I received this one in response to my web site. Anyone have any suggestions
for Jerry? Contact him direct at jdrenzek@cecom.com.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
______________________________________________________________________
I was wondering if you are able to diagnose a strange problem Im experiencing
with the carbs on my '58 BN4. It seems that the dash pot oil disappears
almost instantly when fresh oil(20-50) is added causing a nasty backfire
on acceleration (no carb piston dampening when oil is gone from
dashpot). How often do you need to replenish ???
Please email if you can help.
jdrenzek@cecom.com
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 21:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Early BN1 for sale
Thanks for clearing up my misunderstanding of body numbers - I was not aware
that the
series also included other Austin vehicles. My batch/body number is 4467-885
which
the BMI certificate says was built December 9, 1953. This and my chassis
number is
149673 would seem to fit well with your numbers, Norman. Page 47 of
Clausager's book
really goes through the whole number business. It does point out that cars
with body
numbers after 20 were built at Longbridge, however, and not Warwick.
Norman Cay wrote:
> My BN1 has car/chassis number BN1-L/149928
> Body Number 1086
> Built 14 December 1953
> (heritage archive information)
> one would assume that the body number 4284 was later
> Norm Cay
> BN1, BN2, MKII Jag
>
> John Harper wrote:
>
> > Joe
> >
> > We have in our 100 Register the next chasssis number to this one
> >
> > BN1
> > Chassis 140218
> > Batch/Body 4284 70
> > First registered 6 August 1953
> > Hence this car was built earlier than this.
> >
> > It is rather misleading to try and consider chassis number at this
> > period of manufacture because they were shared with other models such as
> > the A70 Hereford.
> >
> > It is better to consider body numbers because these were unique to the
> > 100 and although they were not allocated to finished cars in exact
> > sequence they are are still a good indication of how many 100s were
> > built over a given period of time.
> > >
> > >Has this chassis number been submitted to the BMIHT for a certificate?
>"The
> > >Healey Story" by Geoffrey Healey indicates chassis from 138031 to 233456
>were
> > >built at Longbridge. Also, the BMIHT certificate for my car, which is
>chassis
> > >number 149673, was built December 9, 1953. It does not seem logical that
>a gap
> > >of 9,456 chassis numbers should exist between cars built in September and
> > >December. Joe Elmer.
> > >
> >
> > --
> > John Harper
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 21:25:59 EDT
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
I feel I must apologize to the list for misinformation. The product that I
used is called Gliptone, and you can find them at www.liquidleather.com. As
for the Leatherique products, I have heard nothing but praise from the others
on the Jag list about it, but I have not used Leatherique products. I have a
feeling that the two products are very alike. I had fantastic results with
Gliptone.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 22:33:39 -0400
Subject: Re: leather cleaner and conditioner
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
> I feel I must apologize to the list for misinformation. The product that I
> used is called Gliptone, and you can find them at www.liquidleather.com. As
> for the Leatherique products, I have heard nothing but praise from the others
> on the Jag list about it, but I have not used Leatherique products. I have a
> feeling that the two products are very alike. I had fantastic results with
> Gliptone.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
Chris,
Appreciate the note. I have already done a search on Gliptone and found
their site. An excerpt is
Liquid Leather products are used or sold by: Rolls-Royce, Jaguar,
Ferrari (Maranello
Concessionaires), Aston Martin, TVR, Bristol Cars, Saab GB, the largest
leather furniture
manufacturers and retailers including World of Leather, plus most of the
"CE" accredited made to
measure motorcycle leather clothing manufacturers.
Tomorrow I shall try the local Jag and Saab dealerships.
Thanks
Keith
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 22:18:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Shock
Hello John and listers;
I had a similar problem last week with a shock that I rebuilt and it
turned out to be a small metal shaving caught in the inside valve. Once the
shaving was removed, all was fine. Try inspecting the valve for any foreign
particles and if you find nothing or are unable to correct the problem then
return the shock for another.
Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: Rear Shock
>
> Hello List,
>
> I bought two new rear shocks but the amount of resistance does not
> match. The stiff shock takes about twice the effort to move the lever
> arm. I figured there was an air block due to shipping so I mounted the
> shock body to the frame and worked the lever about 50 times now (took
> out the back seat for access). Also opened the fill plug to see if that
> would help. Another potential clue: twice the resistance went completely
> away for one stroke (bad valve?)
>
> Anyone else run into this? Anything else to try or just return it?
>
> Thanks for any advice,
>
> John Loftus
> BJ7
>
From Barry Giddings <barrygiddings at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 19:48:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Telescopic shocker brackets
I was looking at the front telescopic shocker absorber
set up on a 100-6 on the weekend and observed that the
owner installed them himself by making his own top and
bottom a brackets ( I think they were bolted in
place).
Does anyone have a pattern for such brackets that
work, look reasonable and ensure good wheel clearance
that can be sent via e-mail?
Thanks in advance
Barry Giddings
BT7
Melbourne Australia
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 00:18:16 EDT
Subject: Transmissions
Hello,
When I purchased my 1954 BN1 I fully realized the car had the incorrect four
speed transmission with a poorly fitted hydraulic clutch. I want the car to
be a driver, so it didn't seem to be a significant problem. I intended to
keep the four speed and go back to the original manual linkage. I've come to
the conclusion now, the transmission is incorrect for a 100. At least the
bellhousing, since the clutch lever exits on the housing on the right and the
pedal linkage is on the left. So, I need help in determining my options: 1)
Acquire a BN2 bellhousing if this still will be compatible if my trans is
from a 100/6 or 3000 side shift. 2) Find a 3 speed trans, but I'll have to
remove the four speed mods that I just put in. Any help in determining my
options, or locating a reasonably priced bell housing or 3 speed trans would
be appreciated. I will consider the supra transmission considering the total
cost involved in getting the original transmission back into the car now.
But, I really like playing with the overdrive, I'll miss that, it won't be
quite the same.
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
From Arnold Herrmann <a.herrmann at bellherrmann.nl>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 09:06:48 +0200
Subject: Sprite en Judson
Hello there everybody
I bought a complete Judson Supercharger for a 998cc Sprite. I would like
to discuss a couple 'user experiences' with this charger:
1. is it necessary to modify the Judson pulley diameter when I'm using
on my 1275? (I also bought a 3.7 diff.)
2. If yes, what should the diameter be?
3. Is there any need to do something on my fuel pump?
4. I'm a bit worried about the vacuum. Can I use the oiler connection
(vacuum?) for the engine ventilation and the advance?
5. Does anyone have a suggestion for engine ventilation with the minimum
of modifications?
6. is there any need to inforce gearbox, propeller shaft, rear axle? (a
5 speed gearbox is installed, I really wouldn't know which one it is.
The only odd thing is that the first gear is towards you...)
7. Is there any need to change ignition timing (I'm going to install the
Fireball electronic ignition)
8. Or are there any other advises. Please let me know
Cheers
Arnold Herrmann
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 08:17:00 -0500
Subject: Australia Victoria Help - PS
<< P.s
with talk of late of names for the cars i.e The beast. Penelope etc.
I've been trying to think of one for my 100/6. One that came to mind
was; Rusty (hence the arc welder). >>
My wife affectionately refers to my '60 BN7 as "your mistress". She
often tells people that I spend more money and time on "my mistress"
then I do her. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?
Carlos Cruz
From bstarke at redshift.bc.ca
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 07:54:11
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#335331820: Austin Healey 100-4
Cylinder Head--No Reserve
I saw this item for sale at eBayMotors, the world's largest personal trading
community, and thought that you might be interested. Someone on the list was
looking for such a head recently.
Title of item: Austin Healey 100-4 Cylinder Head--No Reserve
Seller: twdervish@aol.com
Starts: May-17-00 19:11:14 PDT
Ends: May-24-00 19:11:14 PDT
Price: Starts at $99.99
To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=335331820
Item Description:
Original Cylinder Head for an Austin Healey 100-4. Includes studs
(only one water outlet stud is broken). There are no obvious cracks; but it
has not been pressure tested. This is a rare item and many if not most have
cracks--if cracks are found, the may be eliminated with new valve seats or by
welding. Lucky bidder pays $35.50 S&H including insurance in USA. No
Games--NO RESERVE!
Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at
http://www.ebay.com
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:01:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting under the car
If you live anywhere near N.J. you can use the lift I have in my garage. I
purchased a 4 post garage lift capable of lifting 7000 lbs. Be my guest!!
Or anyone else who needs to use it for a short period of time. I use it for
repairs and store my BJ8 on it with my daily driver Dodge underneath. Gary
S. 67 BJ8 #38427
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:25:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: double flare
Scott
The critical factor is how much of the tubing protrudes above the vice. If too
much you get excess rolling when you force down the die (and then when you
screw down the triangular anvil it tends to turn the flare cock-eyed). If too
little, you don't get enoough roll-over.
I think you will find that about 1/8 " is about right.
Also, when you cut the tubing andthen ream it out, only ream enough to permit
the insertion of the die.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Hi listers,
>
> The chat has been about brake lines this week. I am working to replace my
> rear axle this week, and have to face fabrication of brake lines myself.
>
> I purchased the double-flaring tool at the local autoparts and some extra
> steel tubing to practice with. Any advise on
> how to make this thing work? Seems it wants to tilt the flare sideways,
> which is not acceptable considering I will have spent a lot of time getting
> the bends right and I don't want the tool to ruin my work.
>
> It was amazing to see that the local autoparts store sold the proper thread
> for British sports cars - I guess Something was standardized in Europe for
> us.
>
> later!
> Scott
> --
> l+---+---+---+----
> l\ Scott C. Williams
> l \ Topeka, Kansas, U.S.A.
> l \ scott@oldertech.com or scww@midusa.net
> l \ www.oldertech.com
> ------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 12:20:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating 100
I've driven my 100 in 90* hot deserts and over 11,000 ft passes (where the
air density, and thus cooling is much reduced) with no overheating problem.
Thus, my basic belief is that the car will run fine without modification.
You just have to find the problem.
Among the list of potentials are:
1) clogged passageways in the head and/or block
2) clogged radiator tubes
3) corrodedd water pump vanes, making hte pump far less efficient in
circulating water
and
4) retarded timing! Yes, you can run hot if your timing is a few degrees
retarded. Too much advance shows up in pinging, so that is easy to identify.
Before diddling too much, also pull a plug or two and look at their color.
White shows they're too hot, which could be form an over-lean fuel mixture.
But anyway, I'd really try to solve the problem before changing the car.
I'm sorry if my comments sound repetetive to what may already have been
posted, but I didn't read this thread until just today.
Roger
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 14:05:26 -0400
Subject: Overheating 100
Thanks to all that gave advice on my overheating problem. Dave@Taos Garage
first advised me to check
the ignition timing. How about 17 degrees retarded !!! What a
difference. Hope this fixes my problem.
Thanks again to all.
Joe
55 100
60 3000
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 20:58:24 +0200
Subject: retarded
Retarded.... yeah.. I might be a bit of that too when it comes to Healeys....
HOW do you find out how many degrees retarded you are??
The manual says; at 600 rpms it should be 15 degrees. I presume this is 15 of
the 360 degrees on the flywheel? Do I need to know the dia. of the flywheel
then in order to find the distance from the notch in the flywheel???? Anyone
got the "small print" or a better user-manual-explanation.... my local garage
didnt have a stroboscope able to set the strobes at diff. angels.. so he did
not know ehat to do.
Feeling retarded..... anyone willing to share some light??
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7..... (STILL with the built-in rpm-restrictor)
> Overheating 100
> Thanks to all that gave advice on my overheating problem. Dave@Taos Garage
> first advised me to check
> the ignition timing. How about 17 degrees retarded !!! What a
> difference. Hope this fixes my problem.
>
> Thanks again to all.
>
> Joe
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 12:55:18 -0700
Subject: Road America
something I picked up from another list:
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 09:47:38 -0700
From: Brian Mertz <bmertz@home.com>
Subject: Pre-Conclave Healey racing at Elkhart Lake
Fellow Healeyists and listers:
A rare coincidence of events this summer will offer owners and
racers of"big" Austin-Healeys (100 and 3000 series) from all over the
U.S, and Canada a great opportunity to meet and compete on the weekend
preceding Conclave 2000 at Road America in Elkhart Lake, Wis. (Sprites
are welcome, too, but there always seem to be scores of those anyway.)
On behalf of the half-dozen or so100-Six and 3000 owners who race
there every year, I'd like to invite every Healey enthusiast to one of
America's permier vintage racing events on the beautiful, fast and
challenging Road America course July 21-23.
The annual Brian Redman International Challenge this year will mark
the 50th anniversary of sports car racing at Elkhart Lake, an event that
promises to be really spectacular.
For non-racers, Wisconsin's kettle moraine country offers gorgeous
touring opportunities on roads that might well have been designed for
sports cars. The track is open for touring at lunch time all three
days (@ $50 a day), and there are race car and sports car concours as
well as a Mecum collector car auction each night. Wandering the
paddocks is a delightful exercise in sports car racing nostalgia, as is
the bar at the legendary Siebkens' Resort.
For Big Healey racers, it's an unprecedented opportunity (at least
in the decade since the Healey Challenge) to race others of our kind,
trade technical secrets and tell lies. Wouldn't it be nice to outnumber
- - not to mention to humble - those ubiquitous bathtub Porsches just
once? And you will truly appreciate your overdrive on three (!!!)
mile-long straights, as you pull another gear out of your -- um --
pocket to surprise the competition.
For those going on to Conclave 2000, Indianapolis ain't far and
events don't get rolling until Monday. There's no reason for concern
about maintenance and parts with two of the nation's most knowledgeable
Healey restorers (Tom Kovacs' Fourintune and Bill Dredge's SportsCar
Services) always a presence in the paddock, and their shops just down
the road.
Early entry is advised because the grids do fill up, even on a
four-mile race course with huge paddocks. For information and an entry
packet write to International Challenge, Road America Inc., P.O. Box P,
Elkhart Lake, WI 53020-0338. Also, finding accommodations in the
immediate area can be a challenge because it's high season in a popular
resort, so plan ahead. I can provide a list of nearby hotels, motels
and B&Bs by e-mail to anyone interested.
See you at Elkhart Lake!
Brian Mertz
bmertz@home.com
1957 A-H 100-Six #88
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 13:07:53 -0700
Subject: RE: retarded
.5 inch on the pulley is about correct for a BJ8.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Eyvind Larssen [mailto:seel@online.no]
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 11:58 AM
To: Healey
Subject: retarded
Retarded.... yeah.. I might be a bit of that too when it comes to
Healeys....
HOW do you find out how many degrees retarded you are??
The manual says; at 600 rpms it should be 15 degrees. I presume this is 15
of the 360 degrees on the flywheel? Do I need to know the dia. of the
flywheel then in order to find the distance from the notch in the
flywheel???? Anyone got the "small print" or a better
user-manual-explanation.... my local garage didnt have a stroboscope able to
set the strobes at diff. angels.. so he did not know ehat to do.
Feeling retarded..... anyone willing to share some light??
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7..... (STILL with the built-in rpm-restrictor)
> Overheating 100
> Thanks to all that gave advice on my overheating problem. Dave@Taos
Garage
> first advised me to check
> the ignition timing. How about 17 degrees retarded !!! What a
> difference. Hope this fixes my problem.
>
> Thanks again to all.
>
> Joe
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 16:17:05 EDT
Subject: Re: retarded
I'll shed some light.....What I mean is you can borrow my timing light if you
want. It's the one with the dial so you can simply aim it at the pulley TDC
mark, then turn the dial until the pulley mark lines up with the pointer on
the front cover. The dial will indicate how many degrees advanced you are
from TDC. No need to know pulley radius, or know the trigonometry to
translate degrees to circumferential distance.
About $60 at Sears.....
Jim
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 14:52:58 -0600
Subject: Fw: retarded
Hope this will help...
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: retarded
> Eyvind,
> Since the 100's have no factory pointer it is necessary to make your own.
> 1. with compression gauge in #1 cyl rotate engine until
> compression just starts to register on gauge.
> 2. insert a long screw driver into 1 cyl plug hole
> turn engine clockwise until piston is at TDC as indicated by screwdriver
> upwards travel (careful not to allow it to bind in hole )
> 3. Make a mark on frnt timing cover which is directly opposite the notch
in
> the lower pulley. If no notch on pulley, then pick a spot and arbitrarily
> make marks on both (cover&pulley).
> 4. Next is buy a timing light with an adjustable timing advance feature
and
> follow directions. Remember that point and dwell calibration will
influence
> the readings but only with in a couple of degrees.. These lights measure
> the advance by delaying the flash so that it appears to align the pointer
> and notch while displaying the degrees delayed. So, you preset the light
to
> say 8degrees. Then rotate the distributor until the pointer and notch
align.
> Check by returning the light to zero. There should be about 3/8 -1/4 inch
> between the marks. Remember that Healeys are BTDC. Watching the direction
> the notch moves as the engine is accelerated in relation to the stationary
> mark you made will indicate if you are seeing BTDC or ATDC
> Hope this helps. BTW a 100 has 18 degrees total advance at 2000RPM. so
> preset the light to +18 have a helper run engine up to 2000RPM. The notch
> and pointer should be aligned. If not check centrifugal advance
> .
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> click below for pictures
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eyvind Larssen" <seel@online.no>
> To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 12:58 PM
> Subject: retarded
>
>
> >
> > Retarded.... yeah.. I might be a bit of that too when it comes to
> Healeys....
> > HOW do you find out how many degrees retarded you are??
> > The manual says; at 600 rpms it should be 15 degrees. I presume this is
15
> of the 360 degrees on the flywheel? Do I need to know the dia. of the
> flywheel then in order to find the distance from the notch in the
> flywheel???? Anyone got the "small print" or a better
> user-manual-explanation.... my local garage didnt have a stroboscope able
to
> set the strobes at diff. angels.. so he did not know ehat to do.
> > Feeling retarded..... anyone willing to share some light??
> >
> > Eyvind Larssen 60BT7..... (STILL with the built-in rpm-restrictor)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Overheating 100
> > > Thanks to all that gave advice on my overheating problem. Dave@Taos
> Garage
> > > first advised me to check
> > > the ignition timing. How about 17 degrees retarded !!! What a
> > > difference. Hope this fixes my problem.
> > >
> > > Thanks again to all.
> > >
> > > Joe
> >
> >
> >
>
From ccruz at tribune.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 16:01:00 -0500
Subject: Overheating - Humor
Listers,
Perhaps there are some simple remedies if the potential causes can be
related to typical human conditions.
Some potential causes of overheating Human equivalents
------------------------------------ ------------------------------
1) clogged passageways in the head AKA MIGRAINE
2) clogged radiator tubes AKA CONSTIPATION
3) corroded water pump vanes AKA URINARY TRACK INFECTION
4) retarded timing! AKA CHRONOLOGICALLY CHALLENGED
Possible remedies
-----------------
1) drop two aspirin in the gas tank and call a mechanic in the morning
2) drop two - three prunes in the radiator or one bottle of Malox
3) one bottle, per week, of cranberry juice in the radiator
4) synchronize with the world atomic clock instead of local standard
time.
I hope this helps ;-)
Carlos Cruz
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 18:46:31 -0500
Subject: Need # for Everett Smith
Hi,
Does anyone have a current phone number for Everett Smith and his Vintage
Automotive Engineering company? The old number I had archived does not
seem to work. That one was (916)496-3200.
Thanks,
Adnan
From dave <dmosher at videotron.ca>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 19:50:45 -0400
Subject: (no subject)
Dear Listers,
Just a little note to let you know that Roger Hamel, President Emeritus
of the AHCA-Quebec, has wangled a golden opportunity to showcase our
favourite marque.
With Roger's coaxing, the FIA has chosen Healeys to parade the F1
drivers around the Circuit Gilles Villeneuve prior to the start of this
year's Air Canada Grand Prix du Canada. Twenty four cars will each
carry a "pilot" on a lap of honour. Unfortunately, this event will not
be televised live but hopefully it will be presented on tape for the
world to see.
Hats off to Roger for the hard work dedication he brought to the table
for turning this dream into a reality.
Dave Mosher
Montreal, Canada
"Penelope"
1965 BJ8
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 17:25:47 -0700
Subject: Question on new gas tanks from Moss
Has anyone purchased a gas tank for a later Big Healey (BN4-BJ8) from
Moss? They are on sale now. I was wondering how satisfactory they
were, and if there were any problems with fit or connections.
-Roland
BJ7
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 18:56:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Question on new gas tanks from Moss
While I can not comment on Moss gas tanks, I certainly can comment on the
Knock-Off hub fasteners they are selling.
While they fit, and the chrome looks good, the lettering is certainly NOT
original. If you are going for a concours restoration, these will not do
the job.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject:Moss Knock-Offs
> Date: Thursday, May 18, 2000 5:25 PM
>
>
> Has anyone purchased a gas tank for a later Big Healey (BN4-BJ8) from
> Moss? They are on sale now. I was wondering how satisfactory they
> were, and if there were any problems with fit or connections.
>
> -Roland
> BJ7
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 22:39:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: double flare
Scott
It really isn't as hard as it sounds - after about three trials you'll have the
distances down pat. But an alternative is to use metric pre-made pre-cut
lengths that you get at the ordinary parts store. they have double flares on
both ends. Then get yourself a few unions for single flares and cut the
lengths from the appliance and join them by cutting/making single flares/using
the brass unions to make the splices.
I've done that on a couple of LBCs and had no more than six splices Total. For
example, if you measure the master to the junction block on the frame rail in
the engine compartment carefully, accounting for all the bends, you can find a
pre-made length that will fit almost exactly. Going from that block to the
rear axle requires just one splice. Etc.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> Thanks Dick. Sounds like a tricky process. I'll never get them to look like
>the new ones that come
> on the pre-made fittings.
>
> later!
> Scott
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 22:36:55 -0700
Subject: 100-4 on Ebay
Does anyone have any information regarding the 1955 100-4 for sale on E-Bay?
Who should I have inspect it for me in Malverne, NY. I'm in Arizona and
really don't have a desire to go there myself. I am interested in
purchasing the car if it checks out.
Thanks,
George
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:56:36 -0600
Subject: car 54 where are you?
Very eerie, almost no activity here today. I guess everyone is reading
their new restoration guide.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 14:25:45 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner Needs Help
The second item that needs attention is the heater. At the moment it is
leaking (slowly) into the the passenger compartment I've been told that the
core needs to be replaced. In the mean time, is there an easy was to stop
this leaking?
Please help the newbie...Ian Nelson
Ian
A quick temporary fix to the leaking heater core is to bypass it. Just run a
hose from the heater supply line directly to the outlet line in your engine
compartment. This will remove the heater form the circuit until you can
remove and repair it.
I had mine bypassed for some time and had no problems with overheating - even
during very hot weather.
Bob Humphreys
1960 BT7
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 14:09:58 -0500
Subject: Engine color
The list seems quiet, so here's a question for the collective knowledge of
the list. What different colors, if any, were used for the engines in the
'works' rallye cars? Did they change the color after the engine was
rebuilt to different specs? I have heard of red engines (dealer
replacements?) and I think I remember a comment about a blue engine once.
Any thoughts?
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 16:08:34 -0400
Subject: Sill replacement
Here is another one for discussion on a quiet Friday.
I was watching a video on the restoration of a white BJ8 in the U.K.
last night (you may remember the £54,000 figure) and was intrigued to
see that they installed the inner sills pre assembled.
In an effort to duplicate the factory spot welds we always spot welded
the floors to the inner section of the inner sill and the outer sill to
the outer section of the inner sill before installing them into the car.
We then installed the inner section, and stitch welded the floors, then
the outer section, and spot welded the bottom of the inner and outer
sections of the inner sill together and then stitched them together
along the top as original.
Our method takes a lot of time and careful measuring all to produce an
accurate duplication of the original spot welds.
Does anyone else go to that much bother or are we being retentive?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 18:16:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Road America
?$50 for a lunchtime tour of the track? Pretty pricey. Lime Rock does this for
free for the Italian cars at the fall Vintage meet! Ciao, Marty BJ8 , Volvo
850 and 740, Saab 900S 16V, Alfa GTV , 5hp GoKart
----------
From: Freese, Ken
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 3:55 PM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Road America
something I picked up from another list:
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 09:47:38 -0700
From: Brian Mertz <bmertz@home.com>
Subject: Pre-Conclave Healey racing at Elkhart Lake
Fellow Healeyists and listers:
A rare coincidence of events this summer will offer owners and
racers of"big" Austin-Healeys (100 and 3000 series) from all over the
U.S, and Canada a great opportunity to meet and compete on the weekend
preceding Conclave 2000 at Road America in Elkhart Lake, Wis. (Sprites
are welcome, too, but there always seem to be scores of those anyway.)
On behalf of the half-dozen or so100-Six and 3000 owners who race
there every year, I'd like to invite every Healey enthusiast to one of
America's permier vintage racing events on the beautiful, fast and
challenging Road America course July 21-23.
The annual Brian Redman International Challenge this year will mark
the 50th anniversary of sports car racing at Elkhart Lake, an event that
promises to be really spectacular.
For non-racers, Wisconsin's kettle moraine country offers gorgeous
touring opportunities on roads that might well have been designed for
sports cars. The track is open for touring at lunch time all three
days (@ $50 a day), and there are race car and sports car concours as
well as a Mecum collector car auction each night. Wandering the
paddocks is a delightful exercise in sports car racing nostalgia, as is
the bar at the legendary Siebkens' Resort.
For Big Healey racers, it's an unprecedented opportunity (at least
in the decade since the Healey Challenge) to race others of our kind,
trade technical secrets and tell lies. Wouldn't it be nice to outnumber
- - not to mention to humble - those ubiquitous bathtub Porsches just
once? And you will truly appreciate your overdrive on three (!!!)
mile-long straights, as you pull another gear out of your -- um --
pocket to surprise the competition.
For those going on to Conclave 2000, Indianapolis ain't far and
events don't get rolling until Monday. There's no reason for concern
about maintenance and parts with two of the nation's most knowledgeable
Healey restorers (Tom Kovacs' Fourintune and Bill Dredge's SportsCar
Services) always a presence in the paddock, and their shops just down
the road.
Early entry is advised because the grids do fill up, even on a
four-mile race course with huge paddocks. For information and an entry
packet write to International Challenge, Road America Inc., P.O. Box P,
Elkhart Lake, WI 53020-0338. Also, finding accommodations in the
immediate area can be a challenge because it's high season in a popular
resort, so plan ahead. I can provide a list of nearby hotels, motels
and B&Bs by e-mail to anyone interested.
See you at Elkhart Lake!
Brian Mertz
bmertz@home.com
1957 A-H 100-Six #88
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 17:33:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
Hi Mike,
When I did the same replacements to my BT7 i did it the same way. So I would
vote for you to keep doing it that way. Plus the patience pays off with a
car that has been done properly and looks like it. Maybe that you and I and
Roger and Gary are the only ones who care...
Richard Gordon
BJ8, BT7, BN1
Collecting toy and miniature Healey's
Sales Literature and Posters, Books,
and anything Healey related.
From "CATUDALJ" <CATUDALJ at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 17:50:04 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Generator Problem
Need advice.
Today I was getting my BJ8 ready to drive to the British Motorcar day
at Chateau Elan in Georgia. And wouldn't you know it, The generator
light stayed on, so no charge. I taped the generator, thinking maybe
a brush was stuck. No change . Then I taped lightly the voltage
regulator. With the engine not running, suddenly smoke started coming
from the back on the generator. I pulled the two wires from the
generator , wires were very hot. What have I done. Help please. Guess
I'll miss the British car day. Also need to know how to polarize a
rebuilt generator. How do I check the two wires coming from the
generator To check if they are OKt?
TIA
Joe
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 18:30:28 -0400
Subject: Capital Area AHC polo shirts
The Capital Area AHC will be placing an order for our club shirts. If
you are interesting in owning one of this fine pieces of Healey
apparel you must order by June 9. We will be ordering some extras in
limited sizes and colors, but if you want to be sure to get your
favorite choices, order now! For more information, please visit our
regalia page on the CAAHC web site.
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc/Regalia/regalia.html
Herman Farrer
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:38:05 +1000
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
Hello Mike
I pre assembled the inner sills on my car, and all that I have seen done
have been done the same way. I think the idea is that if they bend
during welding (mine didn't) they can be straightened before welding to
the outriggers and floor etc.
Larry Varley
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 19:31:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner Needs Help
Ian
I second Bob. I bypassed my heater - in fact it's in a box in my garage. I've
had no overheating problems at all.
I drive my BT7 in the winter in Minnesota often and don't miss the heater at
all. Engine heat seeps into the passenger compartment through the firewall and
up from the exhaust and keeps things toasty.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
>
> The second item that needs attention is the heater. At the moment it is
> leaking (slowly) into the the passenger compartment I've been told that the
> core needs to be replaced. In the mean time, is there an easy was to stop
> this leaking?
>
> Please help the newbie...Ian Nelson
>
> Ian
> A quick temporary fix to the leaking heater core is to bypass it. Just run a
> hose from the heater supply line directly to the outlet line in your engine
> compartment. This will remove the heater form the circuit until you can
> remove and repair it.
> I had mine bypassed for some time and had no problems with overheating - even
> during very hot weather.
>
> Bob Humphreys
> 1960 BT7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 19:54:13 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Generator Problem
In a message dated 05/19/2000 6:00:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
CATUDALJ@email.msn.com writes:
<< With the engine not running, suddenly smoke started coming
from the back on the generator. I pulled the two wires from the
generator , wires were very ho >>
Hmmm.... Sounds like you let the smoke out of the wires. You will need to
get a smoke replacement kit before it will work again. ;o)
Tim
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 19:57:19 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner Needs Help
In a message dated 05/19/2000 7:43:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< I second Bob. I bypassed my heater - in fact it's in a box in my garage.
I've had no overheating problems at all. >>
I'll third that! Mine has been bypassed since I bought the thing. Never
needed the heater with all the heat that comes through the firewall, tunnel,
and from the floor. Espically the floor! Gets too hot there!
The other problem is getting to the heater. I tried once, after weeks of
having the car apart without a successful hose removal, I scrapped that idea,
and left the bypass hose on.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay Varina, NC
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:10:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner Needs Help
I'd guess that there are more than a couple of Healeys - non-concours of course
- with their heaters removed and on a shelf someplace. Although standard
operating procedure for overheating is "turn on the heater", I think the small
extra core is minimal help - AND on a hot day the last thing you need is
flooding the passenger compartment with More heat. <G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
> In a message dated 05/19/2000 7:43:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dickb@cheerful.com writes:
>
> << I second Bob. I bypassed my heater - in fact it's in a box in my garage.
> I've had no overheating problems at all. >>
>
> I'll third that! Mine has been bypassed since I bought the thing. Never
> needed the heater with all the heat that comes through the firewall, tunnel,
> and from the floor. Espically the floor! Gets too hot there!
>
> The other problem is getting to the heater. I tried once, after weeks of
> having the car apart without a successful hose removal, I scrapped that idea,
> and left the bypass hose on.
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8
> Fuquay Varina, NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From clandestina at calle22.com
Date: 19 May 2000 17:23:17 -0700
Subject: Ref.: Re: Supplier of SU Electronic Fuel Pump
El Wed, 17 May 2000, Drtrite@aol.com escribió:
> try mg@oconnorclassics.com
I ordered 2 from them recently
>
> In a message dated 5/17/2000 08:23:22 Central Daylight Time, sailer@srv.net
> writes:
>
> << Was searching around for an SU electronic negative earth fuel pump. Anyone
> know a US vendor that not only offers them but has them in stock? >>
> Jim,
> Try <justbrits@aol.com> he can help you.
>
> Don
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:23:45 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner Needs Help
In a message dated 05/19/2000 8:10:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dickb@cheerful.com writes:
<< on a hot day the last thing you need is flooding the passenger compartment
with More heat. <G> >>
Oh! This reminds me of my buddy Ken. He had a Toyota truck, which
incidently was very reliable. Well one day in the middle of summer, it began
to run hot. 100 degrees, 95% humidity, stuck in traffic. Well as we all
know, when the needle goes high, turn on the heater. Ken did, and then all
of a sudden the hose pops off the heater core. This then proceeds to pump
the entire contents of his cooling system onto the passenger side floor of
his truck. Oops.
I guess his first mistake was not turning off the AC. (he wanted to be
comfortable despite the engine running hot.) Since the air was on, all the
windows were naturally up, and Ken had an instantenous sauna of glycol vapors
in his truck in seconds. With all the coolant puking out into his truck his
first reaction was to turn off the engine. Engine off, the windows do not
roll down. (electric you know.) The look on his face when he finally got to
the shop an hour late via the tow truck was priceless. How pissed he got as
we were rolling on the floor as he told us this tale was just the cherry in
top of it all. LOL!
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:45:06 -0700
Subject: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
I have now completed reading the introduction and first chapter of the Gary
Anderson/Roger Moment Restoration Guide (reading it slooooowly to savor
every word) and hoping not to start a flame war want to state that:
If a newbie wants to start, the Workship Manual, Parts List and this book
are certainly the three mandatory books. The others are welcome
amplifications of various sections contained in this book.
I belong to a lot of different non-car groups but the Healey fraternity
never ceases to amaze me with the dedication to this wonderful automobile.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From "John Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:46:49 -0700
Subject: British Car Week
Is it my imagination or has there been a dearth of comments on Brithsh Car
Week this year?
So far I haven't seen many (if any) reminders.
I intend to to my usual by driving up and down the Las Vegas Strip at night
when the tourists are out.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 00:38:37 -0400
Subject: Radiator Capacity
Hi, listers
While I have the radiator out of my BJ8, I'd like to measure
the capacity of it, in gallons per minute. I have a friend who can do
it, and has done it for many other car types. We made a quick trial
the other day and confirmed that it is over 20 gallons per minute, but
what is it supposed to be?
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 02:19:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radiator Capacity
Don
My recollection when I did mine (BT7) at a radiator shop was 13 gpm. If your
guy did it right you should have no overheating problem until it clogs up 50% -
<G>
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi, listers
> While I have the radiator out of my BJ8, I'd like to measure
> the capacity of it, in gallons per minute. I have a friend who can do
> it, and has done it for many other car types. We made a quick trial
> the other day and confirmed that it is over 20 gallons per minute, but
> what is it supposed to be?
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 00:48:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
Maybe one or two others but thats about it. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyAuto@aol.com <HealeyAuto@aol.com>
To: magicare@home.com <magicare@home.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 19, 2000 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
>
>Hi Mike,
>
>When I did the same replacements to my BT7 i did it the same way. So I
would
>vote for you to keep doing it that way. Plus the patience pays off with a
>car that has been done properly and looks like it. Maybe that you and I
and
>Roger and Gary are the only ones who care...
>Richard Gordon
>BJ8, BT7, BN1
>Collecting toy and miniature Healey's
>Sales Literature and Posters, Books,
>and anything Healey related.
>
From JBrown5093 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:56:29 EDT
Subject: Re: tow hooks
Just installed a pair of Bill Bolton's tow hooks on both or my cars. They fit
perfectly and look great. Hope I never need them. Jim Brown BT7,BJ8
From Martin Filardi <filardi at uconect.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 05:17:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Sill replacement
At the risk of being flammed bad, I did not do my sills that way. I want to
drive my car a lot, I do not intend to drive it in bad weather. However that
welding and construction method, in my opinion is a set up for rust. Water will
creep up the sandwiched metal of the inner sill, outer sill, and rocker, by
capillary action and rust the whole thing out. This is where Healey's rust. I
fabricated my outer sill and wrapped it around the inner sill and welding it on
the inside of the inner sill, under the car in a beed. This formed a J channel.
It is sealed. I then spot welded the rocker on. If the rocker rusts, so be it.
It is much easier to replace than the inner and outer sills. You cannot see the
difference unless you get under the car and look for it. It is stronger than
the original, and less prone to rust. It may have actually taken longer to
fabricate, but at the time I was really into welding, and building the car to
last. I also used heavier gauge metal. It can easily be taken out and done to
specs. if the next owner wants to years from now! Aside from the auxillary
facet fuel pump the rest of the car is as original, down to the fasteners!
Ciao, Marty
----------
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 4:09 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Sill replacement
Here is another one for discussion on a quiet Friday.
I was watching a video on the restoration of a white BJ8 in the U.K.
last night (you may remember the £54,000 figure) and was intrigued to
see that they installed the inner sills pre assembled.
In an effort to duplicate the factory spot welds we always spot welded
the floors to the inner section of the inner sill and the outer sill to
the outer section of the inner sill before installing them into the car.
We then installed the inner section, and stitch welded the floors, then
the outer section, and spot welded the bottom of the inner and outer
sections of the inner sill together and then stitched them together
along the top as original.
Our method takes a lot of time and careful measuring all to produce an
accurate duplication of the original spot welds.
Does anyone else go to that much bother or are we being retentive?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:56:51 EDT
Subject: Re: British Car Week
In a message dated 5/19/00 11:02:58 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net writes:
<< Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:46:49 -0700
From: "John Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
Subject: British Car Week
Is it my imagination or has there been a dearth of comments on Brithsh Car
Week this year? So far I haven't seen many (if any) reminders. I intend to
to my usual by driving up and down the Las Vegas Strip at night
when the tourists are out.
John Sims, BN6
Las Vegas >>
Hi John,
Yes, British Car Week is alive and well. In fact, today marks the first day
(May 20 - 28). Some of the locals and I are heading out in our British cars
this morning to venture the roads of Amish country in Northern Indiana.
Waving to people in horse & buggies and dodging those gooey road apples is
all part of the fun, and there's some great twisty back roads with lots of
beautiful unscathed scenery.
I hope you all have a good time with your cars this week too.....
Scott Helms
http://members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:39:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
John,
I agree with your assessment of the necessary guide books, but I'd have to
include the Clausager book too just for the color photographs. Color is
worth 2000 words. IMHO
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 9:45 PM
Subject: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
>
> I have now completed reading the introduction and first chapter of the
Gary
> Anderson/Roger Moment Restoration Guide (reading it slooooowly to savor
> every word) and hoping not to start a flame war want to state that:
>
> If a newbie wants to start, the Workship Manual, Parts List and this book
> are certainly the three mandatory books. The others are welcome
> amplifications of various sections contained in this book.
>
> I belong to a lot of different non-car groups but the Healey fraternity
> never ceases to amaze me with the dedication to this wonderful automobile.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Las Vegas
>
>
>
>
>
From TDTR3 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 09:46:21 EDT
Subject: Re: British Car Week
In a message dated 5/20/2000 5:14:26 AM, Trmgafun@aol.com writes:
<< Yes, British Car Week is alive and well. In fact, today marks the first
day
(May 20 - 28). >>
The Tucson British Car Register is participating in a car show at Old
Tucson Studios. A great way to start off BCW.
Ken
58 BN4
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 09:50:24 -0400
Subject: Overdrive woes
Still working on my 100 and have a problem with the overdrive. While
driving a couple of months ago,
the car was surging. Problem was diagnosed in the
transmission. Transmission and overdrive were
overhauled. New solenoid installed and the relay that activates the
overdrive at speeds over 40 MPH
was deactivated. Upon picking up the car, the overdrive worked for 20 +
miles and
stopped. After replacing the solenoid, the overdrive worked for appx. 2
miles and then quit. After appx.
50 miles, and the switch being turned on and off, the overdrive engaged and
ran properly for the next
50 miles. The following days the overdrive would work
intermittently. Yesterday my mechanic noticed
that the turn signals did not work. The fuse was blown and the overdrive
solenoid had a direct short.
Before replacing the solenoid the third time, the problem must be found.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help.
Joe
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 10:01:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
I believe you can get away with pre-spot welding the rockers tot he outer
sills and floors to the inner sils ONLY if you have a full set of precision
jigs that will assure proper line-up of the doors later on. I also don't
believe such a set exists anywhere today, and would be very hard to make
since I'm NOT talking about jigs that you set into the existing car chassis.
The rear 1/4 panel is sandwiched betweent he back end of the rocker and the
outer sill. Thus, you'd have to leave a gap unwelded for slipping this in
when the sill-rocker assembly was installed. There also is a lot of
overlapping at the front of the rocker area. If all the parts for the upper
structure were unattached, I susppose you could figure out a sequence that
would work easily. But here's where all the jigs I referred to come in.
I use the front hinge post as my prime reference. Attach front wings to it,
as the little #6 holes int he rear flange ont he wing will line up in only
one position. Support the front of the wing from drooping and insert the
three hex bolts along the bottom flange.
Then install the front door and line up to the front wing. Then you can
accurately position the rear door jamb and rear wing to line up with the
door. The rocker is finally positioned to line up with the rear wing, door,
and front wing. Everything must be clamped and adjusted before final welding.
I don't know of any other way, though I'm sure someone out there who's done
this repair much more than I have has probably come up with a better
solution.
PS -- the frame must be supported at, or slightly in front of (rear) or
behind (front) the axle positions. Some suggest setting the engine and
tranny in place to get proper "weighting". I've also put just the head and
tranny into the cockpit floor.
Roger
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:16:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive woes
Joe,
If the rod adjustment is not correct it is possible to have the solenoid
stay in the higher amperage "engage" position and fry the points and cause a
dead short. I only mention this due to the fact that it seemed to work
intermittantly.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Smathers" <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: Overdrive woes
>
> Still working on my 100 and have a problem with the overdrive. While
> driving a couple of months ago,
> the car was surging. Problem was diagnosed in the
> transmission. Transmission and overdrive were
> overhauled. New solenoid installed and the relay that activates the
> overdrive at speeds over 40 MPH
> was deactivated. Upon picking up the car, the overdrive worked for 20 +
> miles and
> stopped. After replacing the solenoid, the overdrive worked for appx. 2
> miles and then quit. After appx.
> 50 miles, and the switch being turned on and off, the overdrive engaged
and
> ran properly for the next
> 50 miles. The following days the overdrive would work
> intermittently. Yesterday my mechanic noticed
> that the turn signals did not work. The fuse was blown and the overdrive
> solenoid had a direct short.
> Before replacing the solenoid the third time, the problem must be found.
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
>
From "Gary Patterson" <gpatt1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 10:50:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
John,
Can you, or someone else on the list, suggest a source for the Parts
List (BJ8)?
Thanks,
Gary Patterson
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 11:45 PM
Subject: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
>
> I have now completed reading the introduction and first chapter of the
Gary
> Anderson/Roger Moment Restoration Guide (reading it slooooowly to
savor
> every word) and hoping not to start a flame war want to state that:
>
> If a newbie wants to start, the Workship Manual, Parts List and this
book
> are certainly the three mandatory books. The others are welcome
> amplifications of various sections contained in this book.
>
> I belong to a lot of different non-car groups but the Healey
fraternity
> never ceases to amaze me with the dedication to this wonderful
automobile.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Las Vegas
>
>
>
>
From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 14:10:28 -0500
Subject: RE: V1 #16
Regarding the possibility of touring the Road America track at the Brian
Redman vintage event on the way to Conclave 2000, Martin Filardi wrote:
> ?$50 for a lunchtime tour of the track?
> Pretty pricey.
Perhaps, but it's a bit more that just a "tour of the track". The touring
session usually lasts from a half hour to 45 minutes and you can continue
doing laps until the bell rings.
It's also _very_ popular, so the best day to do it is Friday when it's the
least crowded (the fewer cars that are out there, the more leeway there is
for "spirited" driving). Just don't pass in the corners :-)
For those folks who don't race, it's also the best way to gain a better
appreciation for the track layout which--to the surprise of many--includes
not one but three VERY long straights. It looks a lot different "in person"
than it does from a helicopter shot or even an in-car camera.
A lot of the race cars are on the track during the touring session - mostly
giving rides to friends and children - which will give you some idea of the
speed differential between racing cars and their street brethren.
NFI of course.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 20:44:19 -0400
Subject: sill replacement
Regarding welding and rust preventing , what I do is any areas that are to
be spot welded I use weld thru primers. These are made by a few
manufacturers and readily available. They are rich in Zinc and will take the
process of spotwelding with little burnoff around the spotweld. On a flanged
area such as the outer rocker / lower sill that it is spotwelded to, this
works amazingly well to prevent rust from forming between the two mated
surfaces. Simply apply two coats of weld thru, let dry, tape off areas to be
spot welded and paint inner rockers with a good epoxy primer such as ppg DP
epoxy primer.
This way all your efforts will be well preserved from future
corrosion. My all time favorite in add. to epoxy priming is to spray a good
coating of med. weight oil ( not gear oil , it stinks too much ) in all
areas that will hold water. I must say I've heard many a story of old timers
doing this and after they've been long gone their autos are still alive and
kicking.
Caroll Phillips TDR
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:02:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
Ia gree about the value of color. Unfortunately, we were dictated byt he
publisher that our guid would be B&W. Clausanger's book is a good one, but
the cars pictured have lots of errors. Thus, one needs to use other sources
as well to make sure you don't copy something that's wrong from one of his
photos.
There are lots of really good details in his photos too, so I'm not saying
it's a bad book. Just that you do need to be careful about stuff.
Roger
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:54:29 -0700
Subject: Around the world Samarkand
Hi Guys'
Well the raft made from barrels that the guys were told would ferry them
across the river turned out to be large square steel containers that floated
and had planks across the gap between them making a rough ferry. The
Morgan+4 has given up with visa problems and the French crew have not been
seen for some 48 hours now. The Mercedes of Richardo Fox has blown a head
gasket and he has decided that without a spare the risk is to great to
continue into China.
The leading Team Healey car of Dyke-Price and Onyett has ruptured a fuel
tank seam, the local Indian welders said it would be problem but it came
back with more holes than it started with!. SO out with the Bondo, my
concern would be with the rough roads how long will it last?
The big Lagonda M45 tried to run a border crossing after getting the
barrier lifted with a regal wave. The were chased by the guards and
returned! OOOOOPPPPSSS.
The Bentley is still out in front with a 13 min lead but with 4 days hard
rally ahead how long can they hold the Packard off The P111 Rolls is still
in 11th place and seems comfortable in that spot. The 1914 Ghost in 19th
place also reports no problems. The Porsche 356 is not catching the Hillman
Hunter that leads the classics and is only 2 mins ahead of the Aston DB 2/4.
The results board is I feel sure going to show a loss of time for the Team
Healey 3000 of Dyke-price and Onyett because of that fuel tank they cannot
take any chances and that will slow them down.
The Jaguar XK140 is happy and running well according to the crew, only some
27 mins ahead of the Xk150S. The Hunts Team Healey car is in their favored
25th place and the boys in the MGB 29th. The medical teams have been busy
helping people with the heat and minor other ailments. It would seem that
the hard work of rallying has started. The organizers fear for some of the
cars that are way overloaded with spares etc, the next few days will break a
few suspension systems. So will it be the end for some of these modern day
motoring adventurers?
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 23:28:38 EDT
Subject: Overdrive woes
Joe,
It could well be that the valve adjustment is off. That could burn out the
solenoid and prevent the overdrive from kicking in. The clamp might have
loosened up too.
Ned Paulsen
60 BN7
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 07:28:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive woes
Joe,
Try the Bluegrass Tech Index at http://members.aol.com/BGAHC/techndex.html.
Go to the Overdrive section and follow the link to a subdirectory of
overdrive articles for some great overdrive articles.
OD solenoids basically operate as two solenoids in one. One powerful primary
solenoid that pulls the operating lever into position (and draws a lot of
current) and a second, weaker (less current required) solenoid feature that
holds the lever in position.
My guess is you have some kind of misdajustment that is keeping the primary
engagement feature operating. If you look inside the solenoid shaft you will
see a small button that the plunger should hit when it is engaged. When the
plunger is drawn up into the solenoid it should hit that button and switch
down to a holding mode.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From "Wayne Irons" <wayne at royal.net>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 14:24:57 -0400
Subject: Uh-oh, gas leak!
Hi all. Here's my story of today's misadventure. I was getting all set to
go to the Princeton Rotary Car Show today. I even fought with the darned
top to get it tucked behind the seat on my BT7. Scratched the driver's door
in the process, too. So, I leaned in to start the car to warm up a bit
before I left. Pulled the choke and it wouldn't start. I never have had
trouble starting it. When I let up on the button, I could hear the "click,
click, click, click" of the fuel pump. Hmmm... it never runs that much.
Then "trickle, trickle, trickle, trickle!" Oh no! I quick turned off the
key while I could pop the hood to see what the story was. A PO had
installed a fuel filter under the hood just before the fuel line enters the
front carb. I turned on the key again while watching the carbs, and sure
enough, there was a gusher right there. I am not sure if the hose was bad,
or just what, but that was the source. Since it was only 8:30, no stores
were open...so I just gave up and went to sing with my church choir instead.
On my way home, I stopped at the local auto parts shop to get some fuel
line. That presented a bigger challenge than I thought it would! The guys
just couldn't figure out what I wanted. The tried to find "fuel line" in
their parts lookup computer. 1962?! They said. Austin-Healey?! "Who
makes that?". Well, nobody anymore. Look, I said I just need some fuel
hose...it's a custom fitting, so you won't find it in your computers anyway.
FINALLY, they took me behind the counter to where the hoses were and that's
what I needed. I just completed putting in on, and no leak! I think the
problem is that there is a flared fitting on the plastic fuel filter which
is not the same size as the fitting on the carb bowl. I'll have to look
around some catalogs to see if I can't find a replacement. And the metal
fuel line wasn't snapped into the bracket there on the frame (shroud??
Never did figure out exactly which part that was).
And to make this whole deal easier, I had to take the air filter off of the
front carb. I've been reading over and over here about how difficult a job
that is. You guys were not kidding, that's a major pain! Fortunately, I
had an open end wrench that I inherited from my uncle which was bent just so
that it allowed me to clear the middle carb and the throttle linkage at the
back end, and to clear the brake/clutch lines on the front! Phew. Getting
those nuts back on again was still pretty tricky, but I managed it first
try! Must be beginner's luck.
Thanks for reading!
wayne
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 16:06:21 -0400
Subject: Burnt Rotor arm
Minor drama today when pulling away from the lights in second gear and
suddenly a funny noise then cut out. luckily I was able to pull into a
driveway. After examining the situation it was clear there was no spark.
I reset the points gap but nothing although I could see power at the
points. as a last resort i put in an old rotor arm that i had in the
boot and bingo the car started no problem. The rotor arm that failed
was only four weeks old and was installed when sorting the electrics at
the beginning of the season. the old one from the boot is probably four
or five years old.
Is burning a rotor arm symptomatic of some other electrical problem or
is this just a case of a poor quality replacement product??
cheers Derek 58 BN4 MM
100-Six site
http://members.home.net/djob
From "Robert Sweeney" <bsweeney-bn2 at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 18:20:27 -0700
Subject: Carlisle Bulletin for 2001
At the close of this years show an announcement was made that Import, Kit,
Replicar will retain the present schedule and Custom Compact will be moved
to the 1st weekend in May. So Import date for 2001 will be April
18-20.Hurray!!!
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 18:44:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
Derek,
Probably just a random act of electrical failure. I had two rotors go bad
last fall on two of my Healeys and I thought that was very unusual. I posted
to the list thinking maybe I was getting bad rotors and no one else reported
any significant problems. I was told that rotors tend to crack vertically
letting the spark travel through the rotor body and ground out on the shaft
of the distributor.
Check to make sure you don't have any serious distributor shaft wobble and
always carry a spare rotor.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 18:48:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Carlisle Bulletin for 2001
bn2@worldnet.att.net writes:
> So Import date for 2001 will be April
> 18-20.Hurray!
Is that correct that it will be in April? This years event was in May. The
reason I ask is we just wrapped up a very successful Springthing event but
lost about ten registrations to people who attended Carlisle and want to
avoid that next year.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 19:53:23 EDT
Subject: Re: British Car Week
The Capital Area Healey Club will be having an event on Saturday the 27th--a
"Hare and Hound" rally and drive starting at the Washington Beltway and
concluding in the wilds of Southern Maryland. If anyone is interested please
contact me off the list.
Michael Oritt, St. Leonard, MD.
From "Robert Sweeney" <bsweeney-bn2 at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 20:34:43 -0700
Subject: Carlisle Correction
May 18-29, 2001
From Tomsimkins at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 20:57:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide
In a message dated 05/19/2000 11:14:56 PM EST, J_L_Sims@email.msn.com writes:
<< If a newbie wants to start, the Workship Manual, Parts List and this book
are certainly the three mandatory books. >>
John,
Happy to say - I'm a newbie.
Can you tell me where can I get the Workshop Manual and the Parts List?
Thanks
Tom
From Rikrock at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 21:09:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Carlisle Bulletin for 2001
Import Carlisle will be held May 18-20 next year! They made the announcement
around 3pm today.(Sunday)
The crowd (what was left of it) cheered!!!
Rich Rock
Pottstown, PA
From costan0 at attglobal.net
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 18:12:38 -0700
Subject: Good Day at Dixon
Thanks to those of you who came to the Dixon show. There were more Austin
Healeys than any other group there. I expected my car to be part of the
group but the final testing Saturday night for its first show demonstrated a
little problem. The water from the radiator was being blown out the exhaust
pipe. I am taking my first guess that the head gasket is gone.
Do any of you have some good tests to determine where the water is leaking?
Jerry
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 21:25:23 EDT
Subject: wheel Q
Before I do something stupid, do XKE 72 spoke chrome wires fit on a BN4?TIA
Scott
Scott McPherson BN4, BT7(sold)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 22:09:39 EDT
Subject: Re: wheel Q
NO !!!!! The Jaguar splined hub is a larger diameter than the Healey
splined hub
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 22:33:07 -0400
Subject: Radford, VA
Hey Listers!
Will be in Radford, VA Tues nite until Thurs afternoon. Anyone around
there want to meet for some cheer and swap Healey stories?
Keith Pennell
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 01:09:51 EDT
Subject: Sudden Front End Bounce SOLVED
Please ignore my previous call for help regarding my vibrating front end. I
had a friend drive along side my car this morning and he said it was my
driver side rear tire that was bouncing, not the right front. I checked the
driver side rear and discovered a bulge in the tread. Looks like a steel
belt separation. It's a Dunlop tire with about 6,000 miles on it. I put on
the spare and thankfully the problem is gone!!!! Missed the Wine Country
Historic Races at Sears Point though because of the problem.
I then proceeded to do my British Car Week duty and drove about 20 miles this
afternoon through downtown Walnut Creek, down Danville Boulevard through
Alamo, Danville, San Ramon,CA and back. Saw a slug of convertibles (95
degrees today) and about 6 vintage British cars and a few old German and
Italian cars Great day!!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 12:05:37 EDT
Subject: Help - sudden front end bounce
Hi al,
Got a problem that maybe someone has experienced and can help.
Yesterday I was cruizing to the vintage races at Sears Point at 70 MPH in my
100-Six. It was driving great when all of a sudden the front end started to
bounce/viabrate. It felt like I maybe lost front wheel weights or broke some
spokes. I pulled over and checked the spokes and the wheel weights.
Everything seemed to be O.K. I had to turn around and go home at 30MPH
because the vibration continued at higher speeds.
Got home and jacked the car up and checked the wheels, steering and front end
and everything seemed O.K. Checked the front shocks and the fluid was full.
Tomarrow I'm going to take it to my wire wheel man to check.
Anyone experienced a similar thing? It came on all of a suden.
HELP
John
100-Six
Erika the Red
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 21:05:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
I had a rotor arm fail with a hairline crack last year, shortly after
replacing the points,
condenser, cap, and rotor.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
----- Original Message -----
From: D Job <djob@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 4:06 PM
Subject: Burnt Rotor arm
>
> Minor drama today when pulling away from the lights in second gear and
> suddenly a funny noise then cut out. luckily I was able to pull into a
> driveway. After examining the situation it was clear there was no spark.
> I reset the points gap but nothing although I could see power at the
> points. as a last resort i put in an old rotor arm that i had in the
> boot and bingo the car started no problem. The rotor arm that failed
> was only four weeks old and was installed when sorting the electrics at
> the beginning of the season. the old one from the boot is probably four
> or five years old.
>
> Is burning a rotor arm symptomatic of some other electrical problem or
> is this just a case of a poor quality replacement product??
>
> cheers Derek 58 BN4 MM
> 100-Six site
> http://members.home.net/djob
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 07:01:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Help - sudden front end bounce
John
You didn't mention the tires. Make sure you don't have a sidewall bubble.
Also check the motor mounts, the shock mountings (especially the front
bases)and at the upper link) and the tranny mounts. While you're underneath,
also check the U-joints, F&R, on the driveshaft.
Anything that is broken can cause a big vibration that is hard to pin down when
your in motion.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi al,
> Got a problem that maybe someone has experienced and can help.
>
> Yesterday I was cruizing to the vintage races at Sears Point at 70 MPH in my
> 100-Six. It was driving great when all of a sudden the front end started to
> bounce/viabrate. It felt like I maybe lost front wheel weights or broke some
> spokes. I pulled over and checked the spokes and the wheel weights.
> Everything seemed to be O.K. I had to turn around and go home at 30MPH
> because the vibration continued at higher speeds.
>
> Got home and jacked the car up and checked the wheels, steering and front end
> and everything seemed O.K. Checked the front shocks and the fluid was full.
> Tomarrow I'm going to take it to my wire wheel man to check.
>
> Anyone experienced a similar thing? It came on all of a suden.
> HELP
> John
> 100-Six
> Erika the Red
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Fournier, Paul H." <Paul.Fournier at alcoa.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 07:23:18 -0400
Subject: gas leak -- air filter
Wayne;
I read your note in the Healey Digest about a leaking gas line and had to
laugh when you noted: "And to make this whole deal easier, I had to take the
air filter off of the front carb. I've been reading over and over here
about how difficult a job that is. You guys were not kidding, that's a
major pain!" Just wait till you try the same thing on your REAR carb.....
One of the tricks I employ is to tie a string around the other end of the
wrench so that, when I drop it, I don't have to chase it under the car. I
do the same for my mixture wrench.
Btw, I gave up on putting a nut on the air filter stud for the rear of the
rear carb. I just make sure that the front one is tight.
I have had the filters off and on about 4 times. I have had it take
anywhere from 5 minutes to 30.
Happy Healeying.....
Paul
'62 BT7 (HBT7L/17466)
Knoxville, TN (for now.........)
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 07:45:00 EDT
Subject: Carlisle and springs?
I am very happy to hear that they decided to keep the import Carlisle show in
the spring. I guess all those flyers helped Steve! I spent my time looking at
parts or hanging around with the Northeast Region Healey guys and had a great
time...despite the morning rain. It turned out to be a great show and swap
meet, and I will go back next year. Now I can't wait to get my car finished
enough to use the stuff I purchased!
Question: Can I fit BJ7 or early BJ8 leaf springs(7leaves) on a late
BJ8(6leaves)? I realize that the curve will be different, but is the hole to
hole spacing the same? Anyone have measurements?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:49:59 +0100
Subject: Fixing the rubber heal mat to the carpet
Just bought a new 'Austin' heal mat to go on my (new) driver's side
after a RHD conversion. What's the right way to attach this to the
carpet? Just glue it down to the pile (and with what) or cut the carpet
away?
T I A.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:55:57 -0400
Subject: info
Hi all,
who do I write to get production info , body color, interior
color....etc on my 60 BN7
Thanks,
Fred
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:41:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Sill replacement
I doubt it
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyAuto@aol.com [mailto:HealeyAuto@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 5:34 PM
To: magicare@home.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sill replacement
Hi Mike,
When I did the same replacements to my BT7 i did it the same way. So I
would
vote for you to keep doing it that way. Plus the patience pays off with a
car that has been done properly and looks like it. Maybe that you and I
and
Roger and Gary are the only ones who care...
Richard Gordon
BJ8, BT7, BN1
Collecting toy and miniature Healey's
Sales Literature and Posters, Books,
and anything Healey related.
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:05:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Fixing the rubber heal mat to the carpet
Alan wrote:
> Just bought a new 'Austin' heal mat to go on my (new) driver's side
> after a RHD conversion. What's the right way to attach this to the
> carpet? Just glue it down to the pile (and with what) or cut the carpet
> away?
Neither. This mat is sewn through the carpet with an industrial grade sewing
machine and a special needle meant for sewing vinyl and leather. Its design
won't catch and pick up the material being sewn like a normal one would.
Should be available at better sewing supply stores.
You could use some contact cement to help hold thing in position and
reinforce the whole area.
Good luck.
Rich Chrysler
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 09:20:06 -0700
Subject: Around the world on the Tashkent and Morgan news!
Hi Guys
The Alvis Grey Lady seems to be in some trouble with transmission problems
as well as a badly smoking engine. They are going to try and nurse it along
as far as they can. Problems started for many crews during the hill climb
stages. The stars of the section were the Japanese team in the Datsun who
made it look easy. The Giles Hillman Hunter now also has it's share of
trouble, in that it landed very heavily and has damaged the front suspension
rather badly and it now overheats. As predicted the Team Healey of
Dyke-Price and Onyett's fuel tank sprang a leak again. A permanent repair is
going to be the only answer, but halfway up a mountain in Tashkent Healey
parts or repairs are not easy to find!.
Some cars have now taken the advise of the organizers and lost some weight,
with one of the DB2 Astons now sporting a single roof mounted spare wheel.
The Bentley MX had a bad day with assorted problems and the 38 Packard had a
good day, I sense changes in the running order!
MORGAN NEWS
The undoubted stars of the weekend has to be the Morgan crew who everybody
had given up on. It would seem that once they had the visa thing sorted out
they broke a half shaft. Now Morgan +4 half shafts are not laying on the
side of the road out in that part of the world so they had one flown in from
France, they fitted the shaft (I bet that was fun!) and drove for 48 hours
non stop over a road they did not know, and to a place that they were not
sure of, just to catch up with the event. They have a mass of penalty points
but "we did not want to miss out on the Chinese section" was their only
comment. Great work guys. The Spirit of Malvern lives on!
By the end of the day results looked like this, the Bentley is now only 3
mins ahead of the Packard and that little Citroen 2CV only 9 min behind them
(note to self keep an eye on the 2CV!) The leading Rolls is still the P111
in 12th position and still running well by all accounts.
The Hillman is still out in front of the classics but the 356 Porsche is now
real close only 4 mins behind, plus the Hillman is now a sick car! The Aston
2/4 is only 2 mins behind the Porsche so it may come to rescue the British
honors should the Hillman have real problems. The leading Jaguar is still
the XK140 of Meeus, some 5 place ahead of the Team Healey with the fuel
leak. Two more XK's are in the next 10 cars closely followed by the MGB GT
that is in turn one place in front of the other Team Healey car of the
Hunts, they had a bad day and ended up in 28th place.
More news anon.!
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 07:41:27 -0700
Subject: RE: tow hooks
You can also put a stout bar between them and lift the car with a foor jack
on the bar instead of the frame.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: JBrown5093@aol.com [mailto:JBrown5093@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 4:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: tow hooks
Just installed a pair of Bill Bolton's tow hooks on both or my cars. They
fit
perfectly and look great. Hope I never need them. Jim Brown BT7,BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:57:19 -0600
Subject: new book
roger & gary
thanks for your fine effort.
jim sailer
66 bj8 - with rebuilt motor ready to go on the floor and my left hand in a
cast
From Barry J Hammel <bluesky at execpc.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:05:45 -0500
Subject: Transport Houston to Midwest
Just bought a LBC in Houston. Looking for anyone with an empty trailor
going from Houston to midwest. I live in Milwaukee. I can transport
last leg of the journey. Cost of commercial is a bit pricy. Looking to
save some money and share it with you :-)
Ok... it's a TR3. It rolls. Engine starts but leaks gas from the SUs.
Brakes and clutch work. In storage last five years.
Cheers, Barry
'62 Tri-carb badly in need of restoration work before it
sees the road again
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:41:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott,
it occurs that Lenam is perhaps a typo error for LeMans
Healey...
The french vs english vs american pronunciation is a possible cause..
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trmgafun@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 4:25 PM
Subject: Lenam Healey
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking into gathering some information for a gentleman who's
requested
> some information on a Lenam Healey. Is this familiar to anyone on the
list?
> If so, could you please provide me with some information?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
>
>
>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 09:52:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Lenam Healey
Dave,
'fraid not. The Lenham Healey is a cycle fender affair made from a big
Healey. It looks like a Silverstone. Road and Track had something on them
years ago. Last year I think the Lenham factory was for sale with all its
contents. I saw a auction notice in an English magazine. I think it would be
great to race it in vintage racing.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:42 AM
To: Trmgafun@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott,
it occurs that Lenam is perhaps a typo error for LeMans
Healey...
The french vs english vs american pronunciation is a possible cause..
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trmgafun@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 4:25 PM
Subject: Lenam Healey
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking into gathering some information for a gentleman who's
requested
> some information on a Lenam Healey. Is this familiar to anyone on the
list?
> If so, could you please provide me with some information?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
>
>
>
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:22:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Hi,
Thanks for the input. I believe Ken is correct. The proper spelling is
Lenham, not Lenam like I had originally thought. The gentleman who has
requested the information owns one, and would like to know more about it. I
found someone who has the information on the car, but has to dig it up in his
archives.
Scott Helms
In a message dated 5/22/00 11:53:47 AM EST, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<< Subj: RE: Lenam Healey
Date: 5/22/00 11:53:47 AM EST
From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com (Freese)
To: frogeye@gateway.net ('frogeye'), Trmgafun@aol.com,
Healeys@autox.team.net
Dave,
'fraid not. The Lenham Healey is a cycle fender affair made from a big
Healey. It looks like a Silverstone. Road and Track had something on them
years ago. Last year I think the Lenham factory was for sale with all its
contents. I saw a auction notice in an English magazine. I think it would be
great to race it in vintage racing.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:42 AM
To: Trmgafun@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott,
it occurs that Lenam is perhaps a typo error for LeMans
Healey...
The french vs english vs american pronunciation is a possible cause..
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:41:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott and Ken
Thanks . I learn something new every day, well almost.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trmgafun@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Ken.Freese@aerojet.com>; <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the input. I believe Ken is correct. The proper spelling is
> Lenham, not Lenam like I had originally thought. The gentleman who has
> requested the information owns one, and would like to know more about it.
I
> found someone who has the information on the car, but has to dig it up in
his
> archives.
>
> Scott Helms
>
> In a message dated 5/22/00 11:53:47 AM EST, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
>
> << Subj: RE: Lenam Healey
> Date: 5/22/00 11:53:47 AM EST
> From: Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com (Freese)
> To: frogeye@gateway.net ('frogeye'), Trmgafun@aol.com,
> Healeys@autox.team.net
>
> Dave,
> 'fraid not. The Lenham Healey is a cycle fender affair made from a big
> Healey. It looks like a Silverstone. Road and Track had something on them
> years ago. Last year I think the Lenham factory was for sale with all its
> contents. I saw a auction notice in an English magazine. I think it would
be
> great to race it in vintage racing.
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:42 AM
> To: Trmgafun@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
>
> Scott,
> it occurs that Lenam is perhaps a typo error for LeMans
> Healey...
> The french vs english vs american pronunciation is a possible cause..
>
>
>
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:56:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
Derek
At various Healey events held in the UK recently, we have had numerous
breakdowns due to rotor arm or points failures.
Rotor arms have cracked and in one case split right in two.
Points have been prone to "closing up" after a few hundred miles. The
suspicion is that the heal is wearing rapidly.
In all cases that I saw, the part was a replacement; was not marked and
certainly was not Lucas. I know that most Americans have a poor view of
Lucas products but in this case most owners had kept the old original
Lucas part with them and were able to get going again.
All the best
>Minor drama today when pulling away from the lights in second gear and
>suddenly a funny noise then cut out. luckily I was able to pull into a
>driveway. After examining the situation it was clear there was no spark.
>I reset the points gap but nothing although I could see power at the
>points. as a last resort i put in an old rotor arm that i had in the
>boot and bingo the car started no problem. The rotor arm that failed
>was only four weeks old and was installed when sorting the electrics at
>the beginning of the season. the old one from the boot is probably four
>or five years old.
>
>Is burning a rotor arm symptomatic of some other electrical problem or
>is this just a case of a poor quality replacement product??
>
--
John Harper
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 16:50:44 EDT
Subject: panhard rod?
Hi listers:
I always know I can count on you guys/girls for some help.
I recently put wider 175-r70 13" tires on my bugeye. Now when I corner hard
the tires rub in the rear against the inside front suspension parts. Just
sitting still there is only about 3/8" clearance. I've heard of something
called a panhard rod. Is this something that would solve the rear-end drift?
What exactly is it, and where do you get them. How difficult are they to
install. Any other suggestion, ie. spacers to set the tires out a bit.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:51:59 -0700
Subject: RE: panhard rod?
Hi John
We have a Panhard rod kit that comes as part of our Frontline range of
products (Now before I get flamed for an outright sales pitch!) you can buy
one from Minimania and save some $$$ In this case I cannot get near their
price, believe me I would match it if I could. You may also like to try the
other vendors on the list to see what price they can do.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of BANJOJOHN@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 1:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: panhard rod?
Hi listers:
I always know I can count on you guys/girls for some help.
I recently put wider 175-r70 13" tires on my bugeye. Now when I corner hard
the tires rub in the rear against the inside front suspension parts. Just
sitting still there is only about 3/8" clearance. I've heard of something
called a panhard rod. Is this something that would solve the rear-end
drift?
What exactly is it, and where do you get them. How difficult are they to
install. Any other suggestion, ie. spacers to set the tires out a bit.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 19:26:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott
I have an article on the Lenham Healey written by Doug Nye of Road & Track
magazine sometime in the mid 70's . Let me know if you'd like a faxed copy.
Alan Garrison
BN6
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 19:36:47 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Lenam Healey
In a message dated 5/22/00 16:54:39, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<
Dave,
'fraid not. The Lenham Healey is a cycle fender affair made from a big
Healey. It looks like a Silverstone. Road and Track had something on them
years ago. Last year I think the Lenham factory was for sale with all its
contents. I saw a auction notice in an English magazine. I think it would be
great to race it in vintage racing.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: frogeye [mailto:frogeye@gateway.net]
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:42 AM
To: Trmgafun@aol.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lenam Healey
Scott,
it occurs that Lenam is perhaps a typo error for LeMans
Healey...
The french vs english vs american pronunciation is a possible cause.. >>
Not to be confused with the "Lingam Healey" (usually a big Healey) ;o)
Rick
San Diego
From "BMack" <bmack99 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:24:57 -0700
Subject: Am I making a MISTAKE???
After much wrestling with space over project vehicle, the space has won. I
have decided to sell my part finished Healey to my sadness and someones
gain..........
1965 Austin Healey BJ-8 Mk II Phase 2
(Wood dash, roll up windows, rear seats, updated suspension, dual exhaust)
Wire Wheels
O/D
Originally Black Body (no coves) with Red Ambra Interior
Redi-Stripped Body and Panels and then phosphated
Body Tub redone with new correct panels (Floors, sills, A & B Posts, trunk,
rear inners, etc.)
Rebuilt F&R Shocks (Apple)
New Convert. Top (Hood)
Car was complete and a strong runner when disassembled
Car is located in White Rock BC Canada, 1 hour north of Seattle WA. (USA)
For sale at a reasonable $13,500 (US$)
Bryce Mack
bmack99@home.com <mailto:bmack99@home.com>
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:41:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
Bosch makes a rotor for Healeys. Anyone tried it?
BTW, I had a rotor fail last summer, dunno if it was Prince of Darkness brand
or not.
bs
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 22:38:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
I had a couple of bubbles at the bottom of each of my doors on my BT7 and I
decided to fix them.
I originally painted the car myself in Healey Blue over Old English White using
PPG Basecoat/ Clearcoat Acrylic Enamel.
I gouged out all of the rust; filled with fibreglas resin and shredded roving;
a little bondo, a little Glaze/putty and after sanding with 220 sealed with a
PPG Sealer (two wet coats)
Now someone who remembers painting with lacquer can help me out -
I intend to repaint all of the OEW with PPG Lacquer (my thinking is that
Lacquer over Enamel is safer than redoing the base/clear.)
So please tell me: how many coats of paint? What flash time between coats? Do
I sand at all between coats? After I have good solid coverage how long do I
wait before wet sanding? (hours, days, weeks?)
When I'm trying for final result what is the sequence of sanding grits - assume
ending at 1200-1500.
I recall seeing a website that laid this all out and if anyone remembers the
URL, that will be fine.
Thanks in advance
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 19:57:33 -0700
Subject: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Two points:
1. I am in need (still) of a knob for a BN-2 hexagonal heater control
valve. Anybody with one of these for sale, trade, barter, etc., I would
welcome your offer.
2. I have a blueprint provided to me via courtesy of Charlie Hart for the
BN-2 heater control knob. I am thinking that I will have a set of these
brass knobs made. Does anybody want one? If so please send me a note, with
the number you would like. As you can imagine, I do not know the price yet,
but I am thinking it will be very reasonable.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 factory M
From "BMack" <bmack99 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 20:09:10 -0700
Subject: RE: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
Lacquer over enamel will not work well the lacquer thinner is a stripper to
Urethane and enamel.
"Restoringly" Yours,
Bryce Mack
Classic Auto Restoration Services
BODYWORK - METALFORMING - PREP & PAINT - WOODWORK
Web Page: http://members.home.net/bmack99/paneldoctor/
FAQ's - How-To's - Tools
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:39 PM
To: austin healey list
Subject: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
I had a couple of bubbles at the bottom of each of my doors on my BT7 and I
decided to fix them.
I originally painted the car myself in Healey Blue over Old English White
using PPG Basecoat/ Clearcoat Acrylic Enamel.
I gouged out all of the rust; filled with fibreglas resin and shredded
roving; a little bondo, a little Glaze/putty and after sanding with 220
sealed with a PPG Sealer (two wet coats)
Now someone who remembers painting with lacquer can help me out -
I intend to repaint all of the OEW with PPG Lacquer (my thinking is that
Lacquer over Enamel is safer than redoing the base/clear.)
So please tell me: how many coats of paint? What flash time between coats?
Do I sand at all between coats? After I have good solid coverage how long
do I wait before wet sanding? (hours, days, weeks?)
When I'm trying for final result what is the sequence of sanding grits -
assume ending at 1200-1500.
I recall seeing a website that laid this all out and if anyone remembers the
URL, that will be fine.
Thanks in advance
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 20:14:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
I have never had any luck using Bosch electrical components on any of my
British cars.
Despite the bad things you hear about Lucas, I have always had the best
luck using genuine Lucas parts.
On Mon, 22 May 2000 17:41:14 -0700 "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@slip.net>
writes:
>
> Bosch makes a rotor for Healeys. Anyone tried it?
>
> BTW, I had a rotor fail last summer, dunno if it was Prince of
> Darkness brand or not.
>
> bs
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@slip.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@teknema.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
>
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From "Bruce Hudson" <Bruce.Hudson at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:59:56 +0100
Subject: Where is SMO 744 ?
Hallo all, my first message to the list.
My brother in law used to own an ex-works Austin Healey that was rallied by
Pat Moss.
The reg no. was(is?) SMO 744 in the UK.
He has asked me to research the web because he would dearly like to know the
whereabouts of this car.
Any info gratefully received.
Thanks.
From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:38:41 +1000
Subject: Re: Where is SMO 744 ?
Hi Bruce,
It's for sale in Australia! It's being sold through The Healey Factory, ph
62 3 9872 3900, fax 61 2 9872 4445, web address
http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/.
If you go into their "showroom" it's under Works Healey.
I think the owner wants about Aus$235k for it!
I saw it in person at last year's New South Wales Healey Club trip when we
stopped at Yamba in North NSW. It's fully restored to works specification
and magnificent.
Best regards,
Colin O'Brien
Sydney Oz
BJ8 ph1
--
> From: "Bruce Hudson" <Bruce.Hudson@virgin.net>
> Reply-To: "Bruce Hudson" <Bruce.Hudson@virgin.net>
> Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:59:56 +0100
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Where is SMO 744 ?
>
>
> Hallo all, my first message to the list.
> My brother in law used to own an ex-works Austin Healey that was rallied by
> Pat Moss.
> The reg no. was(is?) SMO 744 in the UK.
> He has asked me to research the web because he would dearly like to know the
> whereabouts of this car.
> Any info gratefully received.
>
> Thanks.
>
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:32:34 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Generator Problem
CATUDALJ wrote:
> Need advice.
> Today I was getting my BJ8 ready to drive to the British Motorcar day
> at Chateau Elan in Georgia. And wouldn't you know it, The generator
> light stayed on, so no charge. I taped the generator, thinking maybe
> a brush was stuck. No change . Then I taped lightly the voltage
> regulator. With the engine not running, suddenly smoke started coming
> from the back on the generator. I pulled the two wires from the
> generator , wires were very hot. What have I done. Help please. Guess
> I'll miss the British car day. Also need to know how to polarize a
> rebuilt generator. How do I check the two wires coming from the
> generator To check if they are OKt?
> TIA
> Joe
Bad news Joe,
When you tapped the regulator you probably closed the cut out points. That
supplies voltage to the generator and it immediately thinks it is a motor
and tries to turn the engine via the fan belt. This requires more torque
than it can provide so like any stalled electric motor it burns out. (As
someone so aptly put it "You let the smoke out").
Unless you are very lucky you will need to have the generator rebuilt and
probably rebuild or replace the regulator because of the high current that
will have passed though the points.
If you require test information for the generator let me know or I can
sell you a copy of a great little book that we reprint called "Electrical
Fault Diagnosis" $US5.00 + postage.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:15:05 -0400
Subject: RE: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
Hi Dick,
I still paint in lacquer, as long as the enamel is cured you won't
have a problem with painting lacquer over enamel. As for the number of coats
final thickness should be about 3/32 of inch or the thickness of the clear
wrap on a cigarette pack. Time between coats depend on environmental
conditions as does the thinner, as for sanding, I sand between ever two or
three coats and finish with 2000 paper, (however I do show cars)final
sanding is at least 6 months after painting to ensure all the thinner has
evaporated.
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 10:39 PM
To: austin healey list
Subject: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
I had a couple of bubbles at the bottom of each of my doors on my BT7 and I
decided to fix them.
I originally painted the car myself in Healey Blue over Old English White
using PPG Basecoat/ Clearcoat Acrylic Enamel.
I gouged out all of the rust; filled with fibreglas resin and shredded
roving; a little bondo, a little Glaze/putty and after sanding with 220
sealed with a PPG Sealer (two wet coats)
Now someone who remembers painting with lacquer can help me out -
I intend to repaint all of the OEW with PPG Lacquer (my thinking is that
Lacquer over Enamel is safer than redoing the base/clear.)
So please tell me: how many coats of paint? What flash time between coats?
Do I sand at all between coats? After I have good solid coverage how long
do I wait before wet sanding? (hours, days, weeks?)
When I'm trying for final result what is the sequence of sanding grits -
assume ending at 1200-1500.
I recall seeing a website that laid this all out and if anyone remembers the
URL, that will be fine.
Thanks in advance
DickB
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 07:17:07 -0600
Subject: engine lifting points
greetings all. am getting prepared to re-insert my engine/trans. i was
curious of recommended lifting points and lifting rings. the old haynes
manual shows lifting from two rocker arm 5/16 studs. are thsse strong
enough for the motor and trans? also as far as lifting rings are concerned,
i was planning to make some out of angle iron. any recomendations on
thickness? btw i am using a cherry picker w/ a tilting device... thanks.
jim sailer
66 bj8
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 14:08:41 +0100
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Cory
>
>2. I have a blueprint provided to me via courtesy of Charlie Hart for the
>BN-2 heater control knob. I am thinking that I will have a set of these
>brass knobs made. Does anybody want one? If so please send me a note, with
>the number you would like. As you can imagine, I do not know the price yet,
>but I am thinking it will be very reasonable.
>
I would be interested to know which heater control knob you believe is
the later one. I have read somewhere that some owners in the States
consider that the one with the knurled brass top is the later one.
In my view this is not correct (but I could be wrong). The later one had
the cost reduction and used an inferior "Mazac" (is this how it is
spelt?) knob which carried on being used on Smiths engine outlet taps
until the 1960s.
Incidentally, the whole tap off Morris Minors. both early and cost
reduced, is not too difficult to find at UK autojumbes. The only
difference between these and the 100 types is that the outlet pipe is
straight.
By the way, one supplier here in the UK is selling a short/low version
of this tap for 100s which is certainly wrong.
All the best
>Best Regards,
>
>Jim LeBlanc
>1956 factory M
>
--
John Harper
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:55:09 -0700
Subject: Around the world to Bishkek in Kyrgystan
Hi Guys
No timed events today, just a drive between borders and towns, This means
that some crews get some extra time to sort out the previous troubles. The
Richard Dyke-Price has gone in search of an alloy welder to repair the tank,
I wonder what the local term is for 'there's a hole in my fuel tank'? or do
you have a spare alloy fuel tank for a Healey 3000 on your camel? <grin> The
local Mercedes dealer has been approached to try and repair a bent axle.
The next night our intrepid adventurers spend the night under canvas (tents
next to the road, notice how the accommodation standards have dropped
further they get from home!) with the following days events consisting of a
timed section over a race track, plus a 25km time trial.
The next real challenge is in Tibet when they will be introduced to the
Hotel Choksam! Famous for having no doors at all not even a front one, pot
belly pigs as bedmates and no bathrooms or toilet faculties.
Such is the high life of a rally contender.
This first night in Tibet plus the speed events could see major changes in
the leader board.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 10:49:10 EDT
Subject: spring question
I guess my other post did not make it through, so here goes again. Are the
rear leaf springs from a BJ7/early BJ8 the same dimension hole to hole as the
phase 2 BJ8? If they are, is the curve the same or less, and can I put the
early springs on my phase2 BJ8...bushing holes the same size?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at getnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:37:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Burnt Rotor arm
Derek,
I also had an electrical problem within the past year which turned out to be
a hair-line crack in the distributor rotor, very difficult to see. The
rotor probably operated successfully for a few thousand miles before sudden
failure. In addition, when I received two new rotors ordered from one of
our major parts suppliers, I found one of the two to contain a hair-line
crack, as received.
The original crack in my distributor may have been helped along by slight
rubbing of the rotor against the contacts inside the distributor cap. This
has been suggested in the past on this list to be caused by excessive
distributor shaft wear and resultant wobble.
The new, cracked rotor would also suggest a possible quality problem with
the replacements being sold.
About 5 years ago, I was having the same problem mentioned by John Harper
where my points were closing up rather rapidly, requiring me to adjust the
spark gap much more frequently than should normally be required. I
suspected the heel on the back of the points arm to be wearing more rapidly
than normal, and decided at that point to install an electronic ignition.
I don't know if this problem was somehow due to the condition of my
distributor assembly, or possibly due to inferior material being used in the
points assembly, but the electronic ignition at least eliminated the need to
fuss with the points.
Russ Staub
'56BN2, '67BJ8
Mesa, AZ
D Job wrote:
> The rotor arm that failed was only four weeks old .................
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 11:53:32 -0400
Subject: Re: spring question
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
> I guess my other post did not make it through, so here goes again. Are the
>rear leaf springs from a BJ7/early BJ8 the same dimension hole to hole as the
>phase 2 BJ8? If they are, is the curve the same or less, and can I put the
>early springs on my phase2 BJ8...bushing holes the same size?
> Thanks.
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
Hi Chris,
The rear spring on a late BJ8, although the same length as an earlier car, has
a much greater loaded camber and lower spring rate to take advantage of the
increased available axle travel.
You could fit the earlier springs to your car but you would end up with a much
harsher ride as you would not be using the additional available axle travel.
You may also encounter some problems with bottoming out which was a real
problem with the Phase I BJ8 and as I understand it the reason for the
redesign after only 1300 odd cars.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "Jim Loewen" <jimloewen at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:20:43 PDT
Subject: 3000 MKIII
Looking for project car in Kansas Area
________________________________________________________________________
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:58:25 -0600
Subject: Fw: a blond joke to end all
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Wolfe" <rwolfe@lanl.gov>
To: "Barbara Brand (E-mail)" <Hogette98@aol.com>; "Barbara Spence (E-mail)"
<stelaclyde@yahoo.com>; "Christian G. Hude (E-mail)" <cghude@pdq.net>; "Dave
Porter (E-mail)" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "Edi Richards (E-mail)"
<emptr@earthlink.net>; "Michael Protiva (E-mail)" <MProtivaS@aol.com>;
"Phillip/Colleen Coombs (E-mail)" <pstetsonc@aol.com>; "Rex Aoiki (E-mail)"
<sushirex@aol.com>; "Russell Jung (E-mail)" <rjung@mst.lanl.gov>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: FW: a blond joke to end all
>
>
>
>
> The Blonde joke to end all Blonde Jokes
> There was a blonde woman who was having financial troubles so she decided
to
> kidnap a child and demand a ransom. She went to a local park, grabbed a
> little boy, took him behind a tree and wrote this note.
> "I have kidnapped your child. Leave $10,000 in a plain brown bag behind
the
> big oak tree in the park tomorrow at 7 AM. Signed, "The Blonde".
> She pinned the note inside the little boys jacket and told him to go
> straight home.
> The next morning, she returned to the park to find the $10,000 in a brown
> bag, behind the big oak tree, just as she had instructed.
> Inside the bag was the following note..."Here is your money. I cannot
> believe that one blonde would do this to another."
>
>
>
>
>
>
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:16:20 -0700
Subject: Fwd: F/S Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8
Found this in USENET newsgroup rec.autos.antique. I have no direct
knowledge of, nor any financial interest in this car.
Reply to the originator, bmack99@home.com, NOT me.
>From: "BMack" <bmack99@home.com>
>Subject: F/S Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8
>Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 00:10:52 GMT
>
>After much wrestling with space over project vehicle, the space has won. I
>have decided to sell my part finished Healey to my sadness and someones
>gain..........
>
>1965 Austin Healey BJ-8 Mk II Phase 2
>(Wood dash, roll up windows, rear seats, updated suspension, dual exhaust)
>Wire Wheels
>O/D
>Originally Black Body (no coves) with Red Ambra Interior
>
>Redi-Stripped Body and Panels and then phosphated
>Body Tub redone with new correct panels (Floors, sills, A & B Posts, trunk,
>rear inners, etc.)
>Rebuilt F&R Shocks (Apple)
>New Convert. Top (Hood)
>Car was complete and a strong runner when disassembled
>Car is located in White Rock BC Canada, 1 hour north of Seattle WA. (USA)
>For sale at a reasonable $13,500 (US$)
>
>Bryce Mack
>bmack99@home.com
From rrofman at Kollsman.com
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 16:44:22 -0400
Subject: Fwd: F/S Austin Healey 3000 BJ-8
I have a '62 BN7 with a flaky fuel pump that is mounted directly behind the
drivers
seat near the battery on that side. The pump mounting studs go directly through
the sheetmetal bulkhead and the nuts are immediately under the carpeting (you
can feel them if you run your hand over that area). I have been told by the
Nocks that there should be a fuel pump mounting bracket - however:
1 - it is difficult to remove the pump as I will have to unglue the carpeting in
the area to get to the nuts and,
2 - there is a reinforcing piece of sheetmetal immediately under the pump head
that is long (vertical) and has short return flanges on either side of the pump
so that the piece of sheetmetal looks like a c flattened out.
Also the solenoid assembly on this squarebox pump seems to be an old aftermarket
unit or one that came off of another manufacturer's pump. The point assembly
has an adjusting screw in the middle of the leaf spring points and the pedestal
is also different, lacking that little ridge that the leaf spring points rest
on.
Anyone recognize this set-up and perhaps know where I could get a new set of
points? Also how to set them up - just wondering as the set up is different
than the books show.
Tia.
From Anders Roil <roil at sensewave.com>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 23:22:38 +0200
Subject: SV: panhard rod? vs sliding pillar ?
Hello John
My 100-6 has another solution to the problem witch was used on the works
cars. The name is "sliding pillar"and, it's a ballbearing mountet on the
back of the diff witch runs in a vertcally "gate"(on my car the ballbearing
has been switch with a brass peace). It keeps the axel very much in the
middel of the car, and don't have the negativ effects of a panard rod witch
will set up the car differently when turning right or left. I don't know if
anybody sell this as a kit, mine look very much homemade, and I don't know
if there are any space in a bugeye
Best regards
Anders Roil
100-6 Sebring Spec.
http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
----------
Fra: BANJOJOHN@aol.com[SMTP:BANJOJOHN@aol.com]
Sendt: 22. mai 2000 22:50
Til: healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: panhard rod?
Hi listers:
I always know I can count on you guys/girls for some help.
I recently put wider 175-r70 13" tires on my bugeye. Now when I corner
hard
the tires rub in the rear against the inside front suspension parts. Just
sitting still there is only about 3/8" clearance. I've heard of something
called a panhard rod. Is this something that would solve the rear-end
drift?
What exactly is it, and where do you get them. How difficult are they to
install. Any other suggestion, ie. spacers to set the tires out a bit.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 18:28:19 EDT
Subject: Rover Group
Hi all,
Just passing this on for those who are interested......
Scott Helms
====================
Subj: Rover Group
Date: 5/23/00 3:58:57 PM US Eastern Standard Time
From: john.lovelock4@virgin.net (Barry Lovelock)
Sender: owner-british-cars-pre-war@autox.team.net
Reply-to: john.lovelock4@virgin.net (Barry Lovelock)
To: british-cars-pre-war@autox.team.net (british-cars-pre-war@autox.team.net)
Hi All,
Interesting one this.
I read today in the latest issue of "Automotive News Europe", a
fascinating trade journal I am lucky enough to receive, that BMW keep
the Riley and Triumph names - what does the Team think of this? They
would have kept Austin, Austin-Healey, Morris and Wolseley too, but
fortunately the re-negotiated deal, by Phoenix, changed the previous
picture. Another revelation was that one of the board members is from
Lola and this is particularly apt as the first Lola was an Austin Seven
Ulster!
see this link on my website:-
http://freespace.virgin.net/john.lovelock4/lola.htm
Barry Lovelock.
========================
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 19:39:18 EDT
Subject: Re: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
In a message dated 05/23/2000 9:23:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< Time between coats depend on environmental
conditions as does the thinner, as for sanding, I sand between ever two or
three coats and finish with 2000 paper, (however I do show cars)final
sanding is at least 6 months after painting to ensure all the thinner has
evaporated. >>
Yup, I'll second this. If your enamal has cured, then it shouldn't be a
problem. As for time between coats, well that is more of a feel than an
actual time. I usually do laquor on cars because its hard to screw up.
Flash the paint for at least 30 minutes between coats. Remember this will
probably be less if painting a whole car because by the time you get around
the car it may well be 30 minutes. Paint above 65 F and don't do this on a
rainy/humid day or you will get a dull finish. I usually put on three coats
of color and then two of clear. (I am not a show car guy, just a wrench
head.)
The improtant thing to remember about laquor is that since it does flash off
so fast (as compared to enamel) it usually doesn't have time to flow. This
means you need to color sand the final job. By putting a clear coat over
color you keep yourself from sanding through your new paint job. I usually
start with 1000 grit and then work up to 1500. When sanding if you see
color, you have sanded through the clear coat and this is a big red flashing
sign telling you to STOP! I'm sure you get the idea.
The best part about laquor is that if you mess up, just sand and re-shoot.
Good Luck!
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8 (OE white Laquor)
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 20:04:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
To Tim and all others who responded to my call for help -
Thanks so much for your input.
Since my paint job was 8-9 years old I decided the acrylic enamel - maybe it
was urethane (anyhow DBU base and Concept 2000 clear) was well-cured, so I
Sealed it and sprayed on PPG lacquer - about five coats.
Tommorrow I'll start with 320 and work up to 1500 - 2000 and I let you all know
how it turns out.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> In a message dated 05/23/2000 9:23:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
>
> << Time between coats depend on environmental
> conditions as does the thinner, as for sanding, I sand between ever two or
> three coats and finish with 2000 paper, (however I do show cars)final
> sanding is at least 6 months after painting to ensure all the thinner has
> evaporated. >>
>
> Yup, I'll second this. If your enamal has cured, then it shouldn't be a
> problem. As for time between coats, well that is more of a feel than an
> actual time. I usually do laquor on cars because its hard to screw up.
> Flash the paint for at least 30 minutes between coats. Remember this will
> probably be less if painting a whole car because by the time you get around
> the car it may well be 30 minutes. Paint above 65 F and don't do this on a
> rainy/humid day or you will get a dull finish. I usually put on three coats
> of color and then two of clear. (I am not a show car guy, just a wrench
> head.)
>
> The improtant thing to remember about laquor is that since it does flash off
> so fast (as compared to enamel) it usually doesn't have time to flow. This
> means you need to color sand the final job. By putting a clear coat over
> color you keep yourself from sanding through your new paint job. I usually
> start with 1000 grit and then work up to 1500. When sanding if you see
> color, you have sanded through the clear coat and this is a big red flashing
> sign telling you to STOP! I'm sure you get the idea.
>
> The best part about laquor is that if you mess up, just sand and re-shoot.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8 (OE white Laquor)
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:08:37 +1000
Subject: Re: Where is SMO 744 ?
Greetings
I can say that ex Pat Moss, John Gott rally 3000 SMO 744 is alive and well in
Australia.
Way back in 1975 the car was at the International Healey Day at Donnington Park
in England where I also happen to be with good friend Alan Jones. If my memory
serves me right it was owned by Thelma Segal at the time and both of us were
fortunate drove this car for short distances. I saw it again a month or two
later outside Thelma's home.
Like many rarer Healeys it came to Australia some years later and was restored
and is now owned by Liam Collins in Queensland. Liam also has a 100S and is
trying to sell them both. However both are not cheap.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From "Cory LeBlanc" <coryleblanc at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:15:48 -0700
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Hi John:
I fall into the category of owners in the States who believe that the late
model BN-2 heater control valve has a knurled brass knob. Maybe Roger will
kick in here and offer a more qualified opinion. I also believe that some
of the early 100-6's used a similar valve knob.
Charlie Hart's drawing shows the knob to be a brass disc of 1 1/8 inches in
diameter and 1/4 inches thick. I am discovering that having one made is
easier and less expensive than finding a replacement original valve.
Thanks for the tips on how to avoid the less than original reproductions. I
have seen the Morris Minor type valves and the replacements being marketed.
I will spend the money to get it right, and who knows, I might even have a
few complete valves made for trading material.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc (using Cory's userid)
1956 100-M engine # 1B/232946-M
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Cory LeBlanc <coryleblanc@earthlink.net>
Cc: healeys list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
>
> Cory
> >
> >2. I have a blueprint provided to me via courtesy of Charlie Hart for the
> >BN-2 heater control knob. I am thinking that I will have a set of these
> >brass knobs made. Does anybody want one? If so please send me a note,
with
> >the number you would like. As you can imagine, I do not know the price
yet,
> >but I am thinking it will be very reasonable.
> >
> I would be interested to know which heater control knob you believe is
> the later one. I have read somewhere that some owners in the States
> consider that the one with the knurled brass top is the later one.
>
> In my view this is not correct (but I could be wrong). The later one had
> the cost reduction and used an inferior "Mazac" (is this how it is
> spelt?) knob which carried on being used on Smiths engine outlet taps
> until the 1960s.
>
> Incidentally, the whole tap off Morris Minors. both early and cost
> reduced, is not too difficult to find at UK autojumbes. The only
> difference between these and the 100 types is that the outlet pipe is
> straight.
>
> By the way, one supplier here in the UK is selling a short/low version
> of this tap for 100s which is certainly wrong.
>
> All the best
>
>
> >Best Regards,
> >
> >Jim LeBlanc
> >1956 factory M
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
>
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:46:58 -0000
Subject: RE: Austin Healey
Received the following unsolicited information about an Austin-Healey
apparently for sale, and apparently in Germany. My online currency
converter says that 73,000 DM are worth about $33,750 today. No interest
and no further info. Please contact seller directly if interested.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Rainer Neuburger nero [SMTP:info@neromedia.de]
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 07:39
To: reidt@healey.org
Subject: Austin Healey
Tel. 0049 7237 9351 or 7773 FAX 0049 7137 7102
e-mail: bischoff.apparatebau@t-online.de
Austin Healey MK III 3000
Year of construction: 1967, USA model
colour: white, new red leather interior
M.O.T. (TUV) H-registration, catalytic converter
dashboard: original wood
steering wheel: new wood
New spike wheels and bumpers.
New stainless steel exhaust pipe.
Paint, metal and aluminium parts are in first class condition.
Veryy good technical condition.
Check book well looked after.
Private sale DM 73.000,--
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:20:09 +0100
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Jim
>
>I fall into the category of owners in the States who believe that the late
>model BN-2 heater control valve has a knurled brass knob. Maybe Roger will
>kick in here and offer a more qualified opinion.
As of an hour or two ago I have not heard from Roger but in the meantime
there is another possibilty to consider. Maybe the assumption that there
were early and late versions is invalid. Maybe it is that for some time
the knobs were alternatives. The all brass knob was certainly the type
fitted to side-valve Morris Minors between about 1948 and 1952. I have
the document to support this.
If the brass knob were phased out on cost reduction grounds but was
sometimes supplied as it suited Smiths then we would all be happy and
your reproductions would be valid for all 100s.
I have looked at many many 100s over the last 40 years or so and would
estimate that only about one in seven has the brass knob. Most of these
were on earlier cars. I have one (99% certain) record of a brass knob
fitted to an August 1954 car.
There is of course another point to consider. The cheaper knobs were
often brocken and if one went for a replacement this may well have had a
brass knob. Smiths would be able to cover the cost of a more expensive
brass knob in the price of the spare.
> I also believe that some
>of the early 100-6's used a similar valve knob.
I was not aware of this.
>
>Charlie Hart's drawing shows the knob to be a brass disc of 1 1/8 inches in
>diameter and 1/4 inches thick.
This would be correct with the edges knurled after a small groove had
been made in the centre of the outside edge and a 3/16" square hole cut
into the centre.
>I am discovering that having one made is
>easier and less expensive than finding a replacement original valve.
>
I agree. But bear in mind that straight outlet versions CHS 78/10 or FHW
5206 can be found at UK autojumbles at many stalls. The straight pipe I
am told can be unsoldered and a bent one replaced. I see no reason to
doubt this but have not done this myself. A straight outlet will work
well in a 100. It just does not look correct.
>Thanks for the tips on how to avoid the less than original reproductions. I
>have seen the Morris Minor type valves and the replacements being marketed.
The replacements being sold in the UK are much shorter and less robust.
The part number is 88G 588 which seems to be a legitimate supercession
(at least for the Morris Minor straight outlet version) but it looks
completley wrong on a 100. However it fits and works so will be adequate
for some owners.
>I will spend the money to get it right, and who knows, I might even have a
>few complete valves made for trading material.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:45:15 -0400
Subject: RE: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
320? how about 600 320 is a little rough!
-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com [mailto:dickb@cheerful.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 8:04 PM
To: Healybj8@aol.com; austin healey list
Subject: Re: I need a Lacquer Instruction Manual
To Tim and all others who responded to my call for help -
Thanks so much for your input.
Since my paint job was 8-9 years old I decided the acrylic enamel - maybe
it was urethane (anyhow DBU base and Concept 2000 clear) was well-cured, so
I Sealed it and sprayed on PPG lacquer - about five coats.
Tommorrow I'll start with 320 and work up to 1500 - 2000 and I let you all
know how it turns out.
DickB
---- you wrote:
> In a message dated 05/23/2000 9:23:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
>
> << Time between coats depend on environmental
> conditions as does the thinner, as for sanding, I sand between ever two
or
> three coats and finish with 2000 paper, (however I do show cars)final
> sanding is at least 6 months after painting to ensure all the thinner has
> evaporated. >>
>
> Yup, I'll second this. If your enamal has cured, then it shouldn't be a
> problem. As for time between coats, well that is more of a feel than an
> actual time. I usually do laquor on cars because its hard to screw up.
> Flash the paint for at least 30 minutes between coats. Remember this will
> probably be less if painting a whole car because by the time you get
around
> the car it may well be 30 minutes. Paint above 65 F and don't do this on
a
> rainy/humid day or you will get a dull finish. I usually put on three
coats
> of color and then two of clear. (I am not a show car guy, just a wrench
> head.)
>
> The improtant thing to remember about laquor is that since it does flash
off
> so fast (as compared to enamel) it usually doesn't have time to flow.
This
> means you need to color sand the final job. By putting a clear coat over
> color you keep yourself from sanding through your new paint job. I
usually
> start with 1000 grit and then work up to 1500. When sanding if you see
> color, you have sanded through the clear coat and this is a big red
flashing
> sign telling you to STOP! I'm sure you get the idea.
>
> The best part about laquor is that if you mess up, just sand and re-shoot.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Tim Wallace
> '67 BJ8 (OE white Laquor)
> Fuquay-Varina, NC
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 07:01:28 -0600
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Cory LeBlanc wrote:
>
> Two points:
>
> 1. I am in need (still) of a knob for a BN-2 hexagonal heater control
> valve. Anybody with one of these for sale, trade, barter, etc., I would
> welcome your offer.
>
> 2. I have a blueprint provided to me via courtesy of Charlie Hart for the
> BN-2 heater control knob. I am thinking that I will have a set of these
> brass knobs made. Does anybody want one? If so please send me a note, with
> the number you would like. As you can imagine, I do not know the price yet,
> but I am thinking it will be very reasonable.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 factory M
Jim and John, I have a 1956 BN2 (BN2L230461) and it has a heater valve
with a brass body and a brass knurled knob. I had until this point
assumed that it was original as the screw in the top was very hard to
remove and the knob has the same patina as the body.
Jim, if you are in need of an example, I may be persuaded to send you
mine.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, SK Canada
1956 BN2
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:22:06 EDT
Subject: Heuer
I have a Heuer two-instrument clock and stopwatch rally set that needs some
work. I recall hearing about an outfit in New Mexico, I believe --MOMMA or
something like that, also another firm in South Carolina that listers have
had good experience with. Can someone give me name(s) and numbers?
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:54:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Heuer
Margaret Lucas
c/o MO-MA
505-766-6661
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 8:22 AM
Subject: Heuer
>
> I have a Heuer two-instrument clock and stopwatch rally set that needs
some
> work. I recall hearing about an outfit in New Mexico, I believe --MOMMA
or
> something like that, also another firm in South Carolina that listers have
> had good experience with. Can someone give me name(s) and numbers?
>
> Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
>
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:27:32 EDT
Subject: Installing BJ8 top
Background:
I have reinstalled two BJ8 tops in the past. Those tops had been removed
during restoration activities, the clip and staple marks could be repeated.
I was 5 and 25 years younger. I had help, results were quite acceptable.
My present car, recently restored, was the second venture. I now find
that the top is too shabby and does not match the rest of the car.
I purchased a top from Moss Motors.
I borrowed a Moss tape from a friend. After viewing the tapes several
times I realized that if I followed the instructions my life would end before
the job would be completed. I should add; I knew that I would have no help
this time and that I really did not want to remove the rear seat back and
sides.
In removing the old top I recognized that the old and new appeared to
have been cut from the same pattern.
Step #1 I took a chance and clipped the rear to the ‘clip rail’ in the
comfort of my living room, copying the dimensions of the old top precisely,
This was done after I had straightened, strengthened and refit the rail until
I could install it blindfolded.
2. Fastening the rail, with the top spread out on the trunk, was now
quite straightforward. The job was accomplished from the outside, no need to
crawl around the interior. The window had been unzipped during this
procedure.
I used #8 sheet metal screws. The type having indented square drive
holes. Magnetic captive fittings and ratchet tools helped.
3. I now folded the top forward, and tacked the flaps to the wooden rear
window frames. Some stretching was necessary. Not too hard
4. I folded the top back, unzipped the window, arranged the glue flaps
over the rear top bow and fastened in place with three ‘Vise Grips”.
5. I then zipped the window closed, stretched the top forward and tacked
the middle and both sides to the front wooden bow. It looked good. I mean,
it looked very good. The gamble of copying the previous top attachments
seemed as though it might work. All of the foregoing was done outside on a
warm sunny 80’s Minnesota Saturday. Step #1 took several hours over several
days. Steps #2 thru 5 took about four hours along with a certain amount of
ruminating in the sun.
6. At this point I slept on it. Tough jobs remaining; gluing the glue
strips to the rear top bow and fastening the related metal containing strip.
I expect that the job will be done with the window open and the top partially
down. One thing I don’t have to worry about is location of the glued strips.
They will be centered. So far, no help needed or requested.
7. Another lovely sunny day. Gluing the rear bow and fastening the
containing strip was, as expected, quite straightforward. The job took about
an hour, not counting glue drying time.
8. Stapled the fabric drip rails to the front bows. Zipped the window
in and tightened the front fasteners. Tacked the fabric to the middle of the
bow. Everything looks good, no wrinkles.
9. Stretched & tacked fabric, added trim strip to front bow.
10. Finished, no wrinkles no sags. As nice a top as I have seen.
Top installed May '99. Now, May '00 car for sale. Bill Huck, 651 426-2545
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:20:07 -0700
Subject: Around the world Kyrghystan with leader changes!
Hi Guys
If you remember today has our hero's doing a few laps of a race circuit and
then a time trial.
The big Lagonda took a few people by surprise at it's speed, it was much
quicker than some of the much later cars! The Giles Hillman Hunter had an
"off" and has stuffed the LH front fender and the Roo Bar. I hope he has no
more suspension damage that has been repaired already after his last
adventure!
Fastest on the track went to the Broderick Mercedes, they have done this
part of the event before so may have had some prior experience of the track.
Second was the Jaguar XK140 followed closely by the DB4. The time trial was
next with
the Datsun 410 having a stirling drive and took the lead in the London to
Peking section of the rally! The big old Alvis broke a half shaft only 2
mins into the stage but had a new one in place in 55 mins! They still got
time penalties, but there's long way to go yet. The Aston of Wier got stuck
between the two XK Jaguars when the results were announced.
The Bentley MX went so well on this event that it collected 6 mins of
penalties for arriving to early!
The P111 Rolls still makes good time and was only 32 mins adrift on the
target time over the trial. The Ghost is still cruising with no problems
according to Richard Wills.
SO after both event the rally continues to the next overnight stop just
ahead of a 13000ft that they will all get to drive over, so cars are already
getting short of air at only half that height.
By the end of the day the cars were getting problematic with both Astons of
Wier and Laing arriving on the back of trucks with damaged suspensions. The
Chevy Fangio Coupe now has a sick engine to go with the sick gearbox, and
the Jones Xk150S is now only running on 5 cylinders and the head may have to
come off! The Lagonda has broken yet another spring with rumors of a repair
being made with a Toyota replacement.
So what does the scoreboard look like now? The Packard is the new leader and
the 2CV has moved into 2nd place the Bentley is now third. In the classics
the leader is still the Hunter but he now has a damaged car (again). The
little Datsun is now in 5th position overall. The Brodericks Mercedes has
moved up the 6th after the track win.
The Team Healey of Dyke-Price is in !5th position after having the fuel tank
repaired again (the welds may or may not hold?) The Hunts Healey is back in
29th (we await news to find out why) It could be that with so many miles to
go that Peter is trying to save the car as best he can. The Facel is also
dropping back but I do not know why (yet). The Morgan is now making up
ground so they must be really flying in that +4 as they are now 48th ahead
of the Mk1 Jaguar and the International. The Mercedes of Colderwood has
cried enough and has retired.
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:51:32 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
In a message dated 5/23/00 9:42:04 PM, coryleblanc@earthlink.net writes:
<< Hi John:
I fall into the category of owners in the States who believe that the late
model BN-2 heater control valve has a knurled brass knob. Maybe Roger will
kick in here and offer a more qualified opinion. I also believe that some
of the early 100-6's used a similar valve knob. >>
Have any of you looked at the pictures of 100 engines we show in our new
book? The heater valve was an interesting item. We've seen at least three
different styles on original Healey engines, with absolutely no chronological
pattern to their use. That would suggest that there may have been several
suppliers used during the same period, with the only common specs being the
size of the threaded end, the position of the hose connection, and the
requirement that it have a knob on the top. Don't forget, this type of valve
appear on a lot of different cars, from MGAs to Morrises and Rileys, so BMC
would have been using a lot of them and might very well have sourced
different suppliers at different times.
I certainly wouldn't want to argue that one type is "wrong" and another type
is "right."
Cheers
Gary
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:45:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Around the world Kyrghystan with leader changes!
"John J. Black" wrote:
>
>
> The Facel is also
> dropping back but I do not know why (yet).
I can offer an explanation for the Facel dropping in the standings.
The car is being driven by a team of drivers, Neil Lawson-Baker, the
owner is unable to spend 80 days away from his dental practice. When certain
conditions occur in a crew change a 24 hour penalty is
incurred.
Although the crew changed in Istanbul and will change again in Anchorage and in
Morocco, they are expecting only one additional 24 hour penalty when they arrive
in Morocco.
Obviously, winning is not everything, competing is!
Bob Brown
Team Healey NA Support
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 13:12:46 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
In a message dated 05/22/2000 8:07:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
coryleblanc@earthlink.net writes:
<< 1. I am in need (still) of a knob for a BN-2 hexagonal heater control
valve. Anybody with one of these for sale, trade, barter, etc., I would
welcome your offer. >>
Cory
First of all, if all you need is the round brass knurled knob for the heater
tap assembly, I may be able to help you. I believe there were two types of
this last style knob which had a flat face, one with a fine vertical knurl
and the other with a coarser vertical knurl.
Here's where it can get confusing so stay with me. The Concours Standards
documents the following however it can be a bit confusing so I'll try to
clarify.
The first style of heater drain tap located on the head was a brass hex type
with a round knob that had a vertical knurl, and the face of the knob was
scalloped. This appears to be the original type of knob and was used on the
early cars produced in '53. Roland Wilhelmy, who is on the list, has this
type which I've seen as well as two others on cars under body number 1000.
The second type appears to be the most common and is the round Smith's Knob
which has the cheaper looking "Mazek" or aluminum (I'm not sure of the
spelling either) knob. This knob has eight semi-circular tabs on it for
gripping. I believe that this type was used starting sometime in '54 through
'55 and maybe into early '56.
The last style of knob was also a brass hex knob, similar but I don't think
identical in the body to the earliest knob. The round brass handle is
however slightly different in that the round brass knob is flat on top with
no "scalloped out" portion. I've seen this heater tap on later BN2's. As I
mentioned earlier, there are pictures of all three heater drain taps with the
different style knobs in the back of the Concours Standards.
I have examples of the last two knobs here in front of me and have taken
close up pictures of the same for documentation. Roland has told me that I
can take a picture of the knob on his car (the earliest style), so I will
then be able to let you all know the exact differences of the three types,
stand by for news.
I hope this helps. Any comments?
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1
From "Neil Cotty" <neilc at apphosting.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 08:01:54 +1000
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Hi all,
I have no idea about originality (yet) but here are some pics of my (ahem
<G>) rather unrestored BN2 where the heater control valve can be seen quite
clearly. This is off a quite late BN2 - BN2L232789.
http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine.jpg
http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine_distside.jpg
http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine2.jpg
Cheers,
Neil
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 18:05:00 -0500
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
No wonder that thang don't run!!them plug warrez is off!!
HoYo................hee,hee...
Neil Cotty wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have no idea about originality (yet) but here are some pics of my (ahem
> <G>) rather unrestored BN2 where the heater control valve can be seen quite
> clearly. This is off a quite late BN2 - BN2L232789.
>
> http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine.jpg
> http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine_distside.jpg
> http://www.apphosting.com/mgstuff/healey/100/100_engine2.jpg
>
> Cheers,
> Neil
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 09:13:36 +1000
Subject: Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club
Greetings
A friend (yes I do have one!) has asked me if I had the postal address for the
Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club.
Can anyone help, please?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 01:45:11 +0200
Subject: Heuer & Windscreen-pin
I would need the same for my Heuer too in Europe - Austria, any experience?
Additionally I would need some information about my windscreen. When I got
the "Pin-screen pillar locating" from AH-Spares and tried to exchange them I
noticed that the old ones had different length but I got only one size from
AH-Spares. Should they be of different size or was this only another error
of the PO?
Reinhart Rosner
55 100-4 BN 1
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Awgertoo@aol.com [SMTP:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Gesendet am: Mittwoch, 24. Mai 2000 16:22
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: Heuer
I have a Heuer two-instrument clock and stopwatch rally set that needs some
work. I recall hearing about an outfit in New Mexico, I believe --MOMMA or
something like that, also another firm in South Carolina that listers have
had good experience with. Can someone give me name(s) and numbers?
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 20:45:32 -0400
Subject: knockoff hubs
I am looking for a supplier of knockoff hubs for the BJ7. I saw the ones
that Moss is selling and the chrome job is (in my judgement) totally
underwhelming.
Does anybody know of a supplier that isn't selling inferior material.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
back on the road, spring 00
Morgantown, WV
From "Thomas F. Pelandini" <tfp1 at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 17:54:05 -0700
Subject: Torque Values
I can't find any reference to the torque values for the front brake
drum nuts for my BN1 in the Service Manual. Can someone help?
Thanks,
Tom Pelandini
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 17:55:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club
At 09:13 AM 5/25/2000 +1000, Patrick QUINN wrote:
>Greetings
>
>A friend (yes I do have one!) has asked me if I had the postal address for
>the Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club.
>
>Can anyone help, please?
The only postal address I could find on their web site
(<http://www.jtpr-inc.com/ggahc.html>)
is on the "How to join..." page and is for John Trifari, who I assume is
their membership guy.
There ARE e-mail addresses and telephone numbers for most of the club
officers on the "Who we are" page.
Hope that helps,
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Editor, Healey Hearsay (AHC of SD) <http://www.sdhealey.org>
'59 Speedwell Sprite vintage racer, 3000 Mk II Tri-carb (BT7), in pieces
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 01:24:26 -0400
Subject: Cooling Fans, BJ8
Hi, Listers.
As I put "Pandora" back together, it seems the electric fan
installed ahead of the radiator by the PO would block a lot of air
that is supposed to go into the radiator unless the fan is running..
While it may be a big benefit at low speeds, parades and such, is it a
detriment at highway cruise speeds? Recently someone mentioned a six
blade plastic fan that replaces the very flat four blade production
fan. What is it and where can I obtain one of these? Might it be
better to use a better engine driven fan and remove the electric fan
for better overall cooling?
A good friend who has a LOT of cooling system design
experience will help me devise the best baffles, etc. to get the air
flow through the radiator, not around it. I'm willing to try it if
some of you have experience that says it's logical. TIA
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 12:31:58 +0200
Subject: springtime/retarded
I want to thank you all for your suggestions / tips on how to make my beast run
properly. Its still wount get past 3500 rpms. but I am working on your
suggestions. Will be back for more if I dont succeed. Thanks.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
From Perk Hazlegrove <perk1 at rbnet.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 06:36:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Cooling Fans, BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Gschwind Don & Ellie <dgschwind@prodigy.net>; Bahm Jack & Reen
<jacksonb@flash.net>
Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 1:21 AM
Subject: Cooling Fans, BJ8
>
>Hi, Listers.
> As I put "Pandora" back together, it seems the electric fan
>installed ahead of the radiator by the PO would block a lot of air
>that is supposed to go into the radiator unless the fan is running..
>While it may be a big benefit at low speeds, parades and such, is it a
>detriment at highway cruise speeds?
Don:
Acouple of years ago, when I was living in a resort area, I would frequently
get caught in the Saturday tourist swap traffic jams, often nervously
watching my temp gauge hover around the 210 mark. I would also participate
in the occasional parade (kids' Scout troop etc....) I installed one of the
electric fans with the radiator probe thermostat and it has worked exactly
as I had hoped. I notice no difference at cruising speeds, and on those hot
stop and go days, it is very reassuring to hear the slight whir of the fan
as the temp aproaches 200, and to actually watch the temp gauge lower to
around 185-190. I don't race the car or even run it very hard (usually) so
I can't say whether there are any high performance issues at stake -
probably are at the extremes. Just my experience.
Perk Hazlegrove
Roanoke Virginia
'66 BJ8
From "Andy King" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 00:54:33 -1000
Subject: test no need to read
test
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 08:01:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque Values
"Thomas F. Pelandini" wrote:
> I can't find any reference to the torque values for the front brake
> drum nuts for my BN1 in the Service Manual. Can someone help?
> Thanks,
> Tom Pelandini
Just use the normal "flat rate" system.
"Tighten 'til it strips then back it off two flats"
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 07:01:47 -0700
Subject: Fw: getting a little older
Subject: getting a little older
> BENEFITS OF GROWING OLDER
> -------------------
> - In a hostage situation you are likely to be released first.
> - It's harder and harder for sexual harassment charges to stick.
> - Kidnappers are not very interested in you.
> - No one expects you to run into a burning building.
> - People call at 9 p.m. and ask, "Did I wake you?"
> - People no longer view you as a hypochondriac.
> - There's nothing left to learn the hard way.
> - Things you buy now won't wear out.
> - You buy a compass for the dash of your car.
> - You can eat dinner at 4:00
> - You can live without sex but not without glasses.
> - You can't remember the last time you laid on the floor to watch
> television.
> - You consider coffee one of the most important things in life.
> - You constantly talk about the price of gasoline.
> - You enjoy hearing about other people's operations.
> - You get into a heated argument about pension plans.
> - You got cable for the weather channel.
> - You have a party and the neighbors don't even realize it.
> - You no longer think of speed limits as a challenge.
> - You quit trying to hold your stomach in, no matter who walks into
> the room.
> - You send money to PBS.
> - You sing along with the elevator music.
> - You talk about "good grass" and you're referring to someone's lawn.
> - Your arms are almost too short to read the newspaper.
> - Your back goes out more than you do.
> - Your ears are hairier than your head.
> - Your eyes won't get much worse.
> - Your investment in health insurance is finally beginning to pay
> off.
> - Your joints are more accurate than the National Weather Service.
> - Your secrets are safe with your friends because they can't remember
> them either.
> - Your supply of brain cells is finally down to a manageable size.
> - People send you this list ...
AND
YOU'R "HEALEY" BECOMES MORE IMPORTANT TO YOU THEN EVER
Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 07:55:58 -0700
Subject: RE: knockoff hubs
try British Wire Wheel's
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: tom Blaskovics [mailto:u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 5:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: knockoff hubs
I am looking for a supplier of knockoff hubs for the BJ7. I saw the ones
that Moss is selling and the chrome job is (in my judgement) totally
underwhelming.
Does anybody know of a supplier that isn't selling inferior material.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
back on the road, spring 00
Morgantown, WV
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 11:50:49 -0400
Subject: knockoff hubs
Hi all,
I have a question regarding wire wheel knockoffs, when smacking them on, how
do you know when they are sufficiently tight?
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 09:14:51 -0700
Subject: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
Finished replacing the engine and gearbox mounts and discovered a few
things
that might help someone doing the same. I used suggestions that were
emailed to me privately so many thanks to those who pitched in.
Engine Mounts
1. Disconnect battery source and place car on jack stands.
2. Lift the engine slightly with a floor jack to relieve weight on the
engine mounts. I used a piece of medium density fiberboard larger than
the lower surface of the oil pan to distribute the force of the floor
jack. Then use jack stands or wood blocks under the front and rear
plates to support the engine more securely.
3. Do just one side at a time start to finish. The other connected side
will help to hold the engine in position.
4. The right side frame bolts can be removed with a long extension (20"
or more). The bolts going into the block are easier to access from the
ground. This way you don't need to remove the generator or distributor.
The only glitch was a frozen bolt which required copious swearing and
penetrating lubricant before finally cooperating.
5. Remove the entire mount assembly and replace the rubber parts.
5. When re-installing the engine mount assembly, attach the engine side
first,
snug the bolts and the frame holes will then line up.
6. The left side I dreaded because I had visions of carburetors,
manifolds, and assorted linkages strewn all over the garage just to get
to the mount. Fortunately, I was able to loosen some of the bolts from
the top with the long extension and the rest from under the car. To
remove the assembly, I drained the radiator, disconnected the radiator
hose from the water pump and copper heater tube, pushed the hose out of
the way and found enough room to pull the mount out the front. I'm not
sure if this will work on all healeys because I have a header type
exhaust but it's worth a look.
7. After the mounts are installed and weight of the engine returned,
check the gap between the rebound rubber and the main mounting rubber.
Shim the gap to 1/32" (.031" or .8 mm).
Gearbox Mounts
8. Remove gearbox cover. Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the
gearbox slightly. Remove bolts holding the gearbox mounts from above and
below the frame. Swap out all the rubber bits (rebound rubber,
stabilizer tie rod parts). Simple.
Regards,
John Loftus
BJ7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 12:16:44 EDT
Subject: wheels & tires
I am trying to get 5 wheels and tires out to Conclave (and back) from the
DC/MD/VA area. If anyone is driving out in a full-sized car or trailer and
has a little extra room I would appreciate your contacting me off-list.
Thanks, Michael
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 12:27:09 EDT
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
In a message dated 5/25/00 9:18:52 AM, fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< Hi all,
I have a question regarding wire wheel knockoffs, when smacking them on, how
do you know when they are sufficiently tight? >>
For normal use around town, I smack them with my 3-pound shot-loaded shop
hammer until they no longer move. (I'm told they tighten up on their own
under normal conditions.) If I'm heading out the highway looking for
adventure, I take out my BWW lead hammer and smack them a few more times,
just to make real sure (I'm not looking for THAT kind of adventure).
Cheers
Gary
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 11:32:50 -0600
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
see the "flat rate" method above
sorry, just couldn't resist
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 9:50 AM
Subject: knockoff hubs
>
> Hi all,
> I have a question regarding wire wheel knockoffs, when smacking them on,
how
> do you know when they are sufficiently tight?
>
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 13:27:39 -0500
Subject: ATW Coverage
Team Healey NA,
A co-worker just informed me that during his lunch time surfing he
encountered a new site with ATW coverage. It seems "Popular Mechanics"
is sponsoring a 49 Buick on the Rally. Comments from the Buick Team
can be found at http://popularmechanics.com/cgi-bin/buick2.pl?url=current.htm
Don't forget additional coverage can be found at:
http://www.carnetnews.co.uk/results.main.html
and
http://www.speedvision.com
Bob
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 14:35:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Cooling Fans, BJ8
As the Great Yogi said - "It's like Deja Vu all over again"
Fans, fans, never heard of them.
DickB, lifelong Cubs Fan
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi, Listers.
> As I put "Pandora" back together, it seems the electric fan
> installed ahead of the radiator by the PO would block a lot of air
> that is supposed to go into the radiator unless the fan is running..
> While it may be a big benefit at low speeds, parades and such, is it a
> detriment at highway cruise speeds? Recently someone mentioned a six
> blade plastic fan that replaces the very flat four blade production
> fan. What is it and where can I obtain one of these? Might it be
> better to use a better engine driven fan and remove the electric fan
> for better overall cooling?
> A good friend who has a LOT of cooling system design
> experience will help me devise the best baffles, etc. to get the air
> flow through the radiator, not around it. I'm willing to try it if
> some of you have experience that says it's logical. TIA
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 20:51:53 +0100
Subject: Re: BN-2 Late Model Heater Control Valve
Gary
>Have any of you looked at the pictures of 100 engines we show in our new
>book?
No not yet, my copy has still to arrive.
>The heater valve was an interesting item. We've seen at least three
>different styles on original Healey engines, with absolutely no chronological
>pattern to their use. That would suggest that there may have been several
>suppliers used during the same period,
I will go along with different versions but not different suppliers.
This was not the way that Austin/BMC operated in the 1950s and early
1960s. For major items BMC would have only one supplier and were proud
of this arrangement. You will will see numerous examples of this in
handbooks and adverts. When I was based at BMC Service Cowley in the
early 1960s this was still the case. I often had reason to look at the
stock cards of individual components and where an outside supplier was
used this name was clearly added to the card as the sole supplier.
The first ime that I saw evidence of this changing would be around 1963
when it was decided that BMC Service would buy headlamp bulb/lamps
directly form Osram the manufacturers rather than Lucas. There was a
long and heated discussion resulting from this because it was "against
the tradition". I left Cowley in the mid 1960s but do not recall any
other example of deliberate second sourcing until around the mid 1970s
when Ducellier supplied alternative distributors to the Lucas versions
on cars such as the Maxi and Allegro
> with the only common specs being the
>size of the threaded end, the position of the hose connection, and the
>requirement that it have a knob on the top. Don't forget, this type of valve
>appear on a lot of different cars, from MGAs to Morrises and Rileys, so BMC
>would have been using a lot of them and might very well have sourced
>different suppliers at different times.
>
>I certainly wouldn't want to argue that one type is "wrong" and another type
>is "right."
--
John Harper
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 16:08:46 -0500
Subject: Shrouded in Secrecy
As usual, there seem to be two apparent ways of doing something Healey:
Does the front shroud (BJ8) attach to the two frame extensions from below or
does the shroud lip lie on top of the frame extensions?
If the shroud is on top, you get the most room to locate the edge of the
shroud but cosmetically it does not seem optimal.
??
Thanks,
Adnan
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 15:39:00 -0600
Subject: 3000-S
OK, I'm either naive or gullable - but i was peeking at a general book on
cars and flipped to the healey section and it showed a 3000-S. Hard top
(TVR-looking fastback with rear quarterlites) BJ7 or BJ8. It actually
looked quite pretty.
Was there such a beast?
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 17:53:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Shrouded in Secrecy
Hi, Adnan --
My shroud lip goes UNDER the frame extensions, with the fasteners nuts on
the bottom. I am pretty sure my shroud has never been removed.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: Shrouded in Secrecy
>
>As usual, there seem to be two apparent ways of doing something Healey:
>
>Does the front shroud (BJ8) attach to the two frame extensions from below
or
>does the shroud lip lie on top of the frame extensions?
>
>If the shroud is on top, you get the most room to locate the edge of the
>shroud but cosmetically it does not seem optimal.
>
>??
>
>Thanks,
>Adnan
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 17:53:54 EDT
Subject: Harrington LeMans
Listers, an auction nearby lists a Sunbeam Alpine and a "Harrington Lemans";
so, what is a Herrington Lemans? The description only says "needs
restoration." TIA
Dr. Jerry Hay
Associate Professor
Spalding University
851 South Fourth Street
Louisville, KY 40203
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 18:11:58 -0400
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
Whack on them until they no longer appear to move. I decided when I bought
new knockoffs to go with my new chrome wires never to hit the knockoffs
directly with any kind of hammer. I put a piece of 2 x 4 on the knockoff
ear and hit that with the hammer. After the knockoff is on, I paint a small
line from the wheel hub to the knockoff (or a dot of paint on each). This
gives a quick visual indication of whether the knockoff is moving in
relation to the wheel. So far, I have never had one move. Also, after 10
years, the knockoffs still look brand new.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
"It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool
than to speak and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
-----Original Message-----
From: Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA <fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 12:11 PM
Subject: knockoff hubs
>
>Hi all,
>I have a question regarding wire wheel knockoffs, when smacking them on,
how
>do you know when they are sufficiently tight?
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:52:17 +1000
Subject: Re: 3000-S
G'day Jim
I am sure that you are referring to one of the two 3000 coupes.
One is red in colour and designed and built by BMC and the other in Healey blue
was built by the DHMC on a Sebring 3000.
It's a matter of taste of course but I think that the DHMC car was the best
looking.
They may still be, but both were owned by the one guy in the late 1970s who
lived on the Isle of Wight. Myself and a friend tried to buy them back then
when they were advertised for sale. As far as I know and I am willing to be
told otherwise, that they were not sold and are still owned by the same guy. I
can't recall his name and as I'm at work can't look it up. Although something
like Mansfield comes to mind.
Lovely cars - though I don't know about the heat as the rear window doesn't
open like on the four cylinder coupes.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>>> James Sailer 05/26 7:39 am >>>
OK, I'm either naive or gullable - but i was peeking at a general book on
cars and flipped to the healey section and it showed a 3000-S. Hard top
(TVR-looking fastback with rear quarterlites) BJ7 or BJ8. It actually
looked quite pretty.
Was there such a beast?
jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 20:19:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Harrington LeMans
In a message dated 5/25/00 3:21:59 PM, Jhayspu@aol.com writes:
<< Listers, an auction nearby lists a Sunbeam Alpine and a "Harrington
Lemans";
so, what is a Herrington Lemans? The description only says "needs
restoration." TIA >>
If you want the long story, I'll sell you a back issue of British Car
Magazine. The short answer is that Harrington made a few fast-back body
conversions for Sunbeam Tigers similar to the Tigers that raced at Le Mans.
Looked a little like an MGB-GT. Without knowing anything more about the car,
I would doubt it was an actual "Le Mans" but even the Harrington-bodied cars
are pretty rare. But its one of those cars that, no offense intended, if you
have to ask what it is, you don't want to take the risk of buying one at
auction.
Cheers
Gary
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:03:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Shrouded in Secrecy
mine too goes under...
-Skip-
Steve Byers wrote:
>
> Hi, Adnan --
> My shroud lip goes UNDER the frame extensions, with the fasteners nuts on
> the bottom. I am pretty sure my shroud has never been removed.
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC
> HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
> "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 5:36 PM
> Subject: Shrouded in Secrecy
>
> >
> >As usual, there seem to be two apparent ways of doing something Healey:
> >
> >Does the front shroud (BJ8) attach to the two frame extensions from below
> or
> >does the shroud lip lie on top of the frame extensions?
> >
> >If the shroud is on top, you get the most room to locate the edge of the
> >shroud but cosmetically it does not seem optimal.
> >
> >??
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Adnan
From Dennis Currington <dc311 at mail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 18:11:59 -0700
Subject: Healeys at '57 British GP
Just finished watching the '57 BGP on Speedvision.
Found it interesting that they used 20+ white 100-6s to ferry the each driver
to ride around the course and wave to the crowd prior to the start of the race.
Wonder if anyone know whether or not they have one of these famous (?) cars.
Dennis
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
(just a bunch of 100/4 parts left)
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:23:16 EDT
Subject: Battery Switch, 12V, in the trunk
Mine is fried, and can't seem to locate any replacement. Any ideas?
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:33:25 EDT
Subject: Re: 3000-S
I saw a fast back Healey in New Jersey during the early 1960's. It was black.
I believe it had a fiberglass top that fitted over the windshield and ran all
the way to the back end of the car. It used the original trunk (boot) lid. It
was quite attractive and was driven to Vineland Speedway for the races. It
was never raced. I oonly saw it a few times and have never seen another like
it.
Bob Humphreys
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:53:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Cooling Fans, BJ8
On my car, an electric fan up front is a big help at low speeds and does not
seem to interfere with the air flow when turned off at highway speeds. Just
be sure to mount it out in front of the radiator, not on the radiator. If
mounted directly to the front of the radiator all sorts of junk builds up and
gets lodged in the radiator fins thus effecting the air flow. Mounted a
couple of inches in front allows the junk to fall free. I learned the hard
way. Oh yes, control the fan by way of a simple on/off switch so you are in
control of when the fan runs not some thermostat.
Ray G
From "Scott Buie" <scottbuie at flashcom.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 22:08:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery Switch, 12V, in the trunk
>Mine is fried, and can't seem to locate any replacement. Any ideas?
Moss has them listed as catalog #145-770, at a cost of $83.20US (1998
catalog). Their phone number is 1-800-667-7872. Hope this helps and good
luck.
Scott Buie
62 BT7
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 23:09:17 -0400
Subject: Fuel pump &Distributor
Hi, Listers
I have a fuel pump on the BJ8 that has an ECCO cap, and the
letters under it:
1-5 LM 12V 1 5
It looks like the SU picture in the Moss catalog. It works OK, but
I was wondering about the quality/durability if anyone knows.
I also checked the distributor so I can order replacement/spare
parts,
and it is marked "Lucas", with the numbers "40968 E" on the side.
The vacum advance unit is also marked "Lucas". Where can I get proper
spare parts for it, ie, points, condenser, and rotor. There have been
several comments about poor quality replacment parts for distributors,
so I'd like your guidance to avoid problems. ( The Moss catalog lists
a 40966 part no., so I may have misread that one digit looking in
mirrors etc.) Thanks in Advance.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 04:56:57 EDT
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
In a message dated 5/25/00 11:13:46 PM GMT Daylight Time, byers@cconnect.net
writes:
<< Whack on them until they no longer appear to move. I decided when I bought
new knockoffs to go with my new chrome wires never to hit the knockoffs
directly with any kind of hammer. I put a piece of 2 x 4 on the knockoff
ear and hit that with the hammer. After the knockoff is on, I paint a small
line from the wheel hub to the knockoff (or a dot of paint on each). This
gives a quick visual indication of whether the knockoff is moving in
relation to the wheel. So far, I have never had one move. Also, after 10
years, the knockoffs still look brand new.
>>
Hi Steve,
This is good advice, the painting of a dot to mark where the knockoff
should be.
Let me tell you [and others] a chilling experience! My wife and I were
leading a group of Healeys on a tour returning from Park City, the 45th
International Healey Celebration.
We took a route up through Idaho's Sun Valley and through the very
crooked Stanley Basin/Loman Road to Boise.
As we came out of the torturous roads and came to a stop light my wife
heard a knocking sound up front. She alighted and touched the right front
knockoff, whereupon it fell off!
Well, had not my front wheel been so totally rusted on, we would not be
here telling this tale.
It was a real hassle getting the wheel off of the saving spline! The
knockoff was completely stripped of threads!! I had taken the hammer and
tightened all of the knockoffs the night before!
I think that, over time of tightening the knockoffs, I had done severe
damage to the threads of the knockoff. That should be somewhat easy to do,
it being brass.
Scary to say the least!!
If it were not for rust the rest is dust!!
I am changing all of my Healeys to 8 tpi splines from the 12 tpi ones on
the rear. And I will make sure that the front knockoff/splines are in good
shape.
Cheers, Bill
Ps I would be interested in hearing any similar experiences.
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 05:16:35 -0500
Subject: Jack
I know I've seen some thoughts about replacement jacks for our Healeys.
Then I did not need one...now I do.
We all know what limited space we have. So what are your
recommendations?
Thanks.
Lynn BT7
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:18:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Jack
Hi Lynn,
I use a jack I took out of my Honda wagon when it went back to the land of
the rising sun. It is a scissors type and fits fine in the trunk (boot) .
It compresses enough that it would fit under a Healey when the tire is flat.
I'm sure you can find one at most any junk yard.
Rudy in NC
From "Mondrosch, John" <John.Mondrosch at icn.siemens.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:22:30 -0400
Subject: Radiator boilover
This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3 miles
(the exits are too close together :P),
when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over, covering
the windshield with a spray of coolant and
on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks.
Does anyone else experience this kind of boil over running hard in warm
weather? Do you think a 6-bladed fan will make a difference?
It's a '63 BJ7 with the stock 4 bladed on it now. Thanks
John
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:36:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Shrouded in Secrecy
I agree that the shroud goes under the frame tab up front. However, I've
seen the screws (they're 10-32 pan head) inserted from the bottom up. The
parts book also shows them this way. Doing so makes for a neater appearance
and minimizes the fastener "stuff" visible below the edge of the shroud.
Roger
From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 07:59:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Jack
Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
>
> I know I've seen some thoughts about replacement jacks for our Healeys.
> Then I did not need one...now I do.
>
> We all know what limited space we have. So what are your
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Lynn BT7
Here's a repost of something from a few months back:
> That is exactly my approach too. Mainly because I have never yet found a
> jack that is thin enough to have any hope of sliding under the car with
> a flat tire!
Neil:
An early experience involving the 48 spoke wheels of my Healey, speed of
about 45 mph, and a couple of concrete curbs taught me long ago just how
low a Healey with a flat tire (or broken wheel) is. And how one must be
very particular in choice of jacks.
That experience introduced me to the wonders of the screw-type scissors
jack. These seem to be the only type that collapse enough to fit under
a frame rail that's 3-4" from the ground. And then still yield enough
extended height to be useful. My personal favorite is the old
"double-geared" type, with two shaft input sockets, one for fast
extension, the other geared for heavy lifting. And that jack has served
me well for 25 years doing all sorts of duty on all sorts of equipment.
It never fails, is steady and secure, lifts 3000 lbs, stores compactly,
etc. Unfortunately, to find one now you may have to visit garage sales;
the good part is that when you do find one, they're dirt cheap.
And note that most Japanese cars today come with a light-duty scissors
jack that will work well for a Healey. And they're common as dirt.
Best regards,
Fred Hunter
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:03:31 -0400
Subject: RE: knockoff hubs
Is that true knockoff threads are BRASS?
-----Original Message-----
From: TRICARB@aol.com [mailto:TRICARB@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 4:57 AM
To: byers@cconnect.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
In a message dated 5/25/00 11:13:46 PM GMT Daylight Time,
byers@cconnect.net
writes:
<< Whack on them until they no longer appear to move. I
decided when I bought
new knockoffs to go with my new chrome wires never to hit
the knockoffs
directly with any kind of hammer. I put a piece of 2 x 4
on the knockoff
ear and hit that with the hammer. After the knockoff is
on, I paint a small
line from the wheel hub to the knockoff (or a dot of paint
on each). This
gives a quick visual indication of whether the knockoff is
moving in
relation to the wheel. So far, I have never had one move.
Also, after 10
years, the knockoffs still look brand new.
>>
Hi Steve,
This is good advice, the painting of a dot to mark where
the knockoff
should be.
Let me tell you [and others] a chilling experience! My
wife and I were
leading a group of Healeys on a tour returning from Park
City, the 45th
International Healey Celebration.
We took a route up through Idaho's Sun Valley and
through the very
crooked Stanley Basin/Loman Road to Boise.
As we came out of the torturous roads and came to a stop
light my wife
heard a knocking sound up front. She alighted and touched
the right front
knockoff, whereupon it fell off!
Well, had not my front wheel been so totally rusted on,
we would not be
here telling this tale.
It was a real hassle getting the wheel off of the saving
spline! The
knockoff was completely stripped of threads!! I had taken
the hammer and
tightened all of the knockoffs the night before!
I think that, over time of tightening the knockoffs, I
had done severe
damage to the threads of the knockoff. That should be
somewhat easy to do,
it being brass.
Scary to say the least!!
If it were not for rust the rest is dust!!
I am changing all of my Healeys to 8 tpi splines from
the 12 tpi ones on
the rear. And I will make sure that the front
knockoff/splines are in good
shape.
Cheers, Bill
Ps I would be interested in hearing any similar experiences.
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 07:14:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Harrington LeMans
Jerry,
You've probably heard the saying "If you can't identify it , you can't
afford it"
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 3:53 PM
Subject: Harrington LeMans
>
> Listers, an auction nearby lists a Sunbeam Alpine and a "Harrington
Lemans";
> so, what is a Herrington Lemans? The description only says "needs
> restoration." TIA
>
> Dr. Jerry Hay
> Associate Professor
> Spalding University
> 851 South Fourth Street
> Louisville, KY 40203
>
From "Jim Loewen" <jimloewen at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 06:41:35 PDT
Subject: BJ8 Info Sources
Hi,
New to Healy-ing. Can anyone give me the
short list of good info sources?
Moss? ...
Eventually looking to rebuild a BJ8, in the
info gathering mode at this point.
Thanks
JL in ICT
________________________________________________________________________
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:47:52 -0800
Subject: Fire Extinguishers
Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least damaging to
electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks - John
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:31:15 -0700
Subject: Around the world in China and we have changed the route for you!
HI Guys
After the last rest day in the worst Hotel the rallyists have ever seen.
They are told that this was a 2 star Hotel but lavatories backed up and
overflowed, vermin in the rooms that were being fed just to keep them off
the beds, beds that curled up at the edges etc, but worse is yet to come say
the locals and the people who have done the event before! What fun they are
having.
The Chinese version of the Not So Secret Police (PSB) have changed the route
for 3 days, so a long night was in front of the organizers doing new route
maps and book. They then changed the route another twice! The cell phone
will only receive incoming calls. Outward calls are jammed.
The 38 Packard is still in the lead being chased by the 2CV (seriously folks
just how do you chase ANYTHING in a Citroen 2CV?? No offence meant to 2CV
lovers) The Bentley is still third and the Rolls still in 12th position on
the vintage leader board. Reliability is the name of the game.
The classic are dominated by the Hillman Hunter, but the Datsun 410 is
starting to impress in fifth place. It leads the Peking event by a good
margin now, and it seems to have no problems.
The Jaguar XK 140 is in 12th place closely followed by the Aston DB2/4, It
lost a lot of time having the axle repaired with a welding torch. The other
Aston (now in 42nd place) had some welding done of the front suspension
mounting. The Rover 80 blew out the differential but a camera crew on the
event gave up the front diff from their 4x4 (this gave then 2 wheel drive
only) to keep the car in the event. The car is now flat out at 50mph but
comes off the line like a scalded cat!
This rover in still ahead of the Team Healey car of Dyke-Price and Onyett,
so far things on this car are holding together after the last few adventures
with the fuel tank.
The MGB is holding 25 place ands seems to be holding up very well, it just
proves how strong these little cars are. The Hunts in the other team Healey
car are now in 29th position and seem to be ok. At the rate cars are
breaking down Peters plan to save the car in the early days may well start
to pay off when the really rough stuff comes up. (the next few days will
tell if he was right!) It is interesting to see the two Team Healey cars,
tackle the event in two different ways, With the Dyke-Price and Onyett car
being used in an old stage rally way, then you have the Hunts car that is
being used carefully, and on the basis that they need to get all around the
world with the car still in one piece.
The Morgan +4 is now stable at 48th and now seems reliable, after the last
weeks efforts to play catch up these guys deserve to make up some ground but
the terrain is not the best in the world to go chasing times!
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:34:41 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Info Sources
Your there
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Loewen <jimloewen@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 7:41 AM
Subject: BJ8 Info Sources
>
> Hi,
> New to Healy-ing. Can anyone give me the
> short list of good info sources?
> Moss? ...
>
> Eventually looking to rebuild a BJ8, in the
> info gathering mode at this point.
>
> Thanks
> JL in ICT
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
From cstinehelfer at bajamarine.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 10:38:02 -0400
Subject: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related
Okay, just to let the list in on what you are talking about; you won the
bid on the item. I contacted you through e-bay, since I remember you
saying you were selling all of your Healey Inventory, I thought you would
probably be interested in reselling the head. (logical assumption)
However, as is evident from the fact that you have once put your dirty
laundry (once again) into the list for everyone to see, all of the
preaching I see as to how we should all work together to keep these
splendid marques on the road and as original as possible is just a cover
for making a killing on parts. If you have a price tell me, if you just
want to see how desperate I am, forget it.
Jeez, I get so sick of hearing people talk out of both sides of their
faces. Everyone is willing to help someone find parts, but once they have
found them, they show up on e-bay with a note to the list that they are now
for sale. Anyone have the information to unsubscribe?
Chris
100-4 that will only be seen at the Hot Rod shows; not healey-snob shows.
Yea, kinda, but I'm not going to let a good head get by. YOU could have
bidded...there was only one other guy.
Now you can buy from me for more $.....
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
> What plans do you have for the E-bay Healey head? I was under the
> impression that you were getting out of the Healey parts
> business.............maybe I got my wires crossed somewhere.
>
> Chris
Chris,
Make me an offer. Sorry you were too busy to bid during the two weeks it
was listed.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 6:18 AM
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
> I would have sniped you, but I had other obligations at 11:00 at night!
> Maybe a different day............So how much are you going to upcharge a
> fellow Healey enthusiast?
>
>
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:40:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Radiator boilover
Check your cap
----- Original Message -----
From: Mondrosch, John <John.Mondrosch@icn.siemens.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 6:22 AM
Subject: Radiator boilover
>
> This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3
miles
> (the exits are too close together :P),
> when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over,
covering
> the windshield with a spray of coolant and
> on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
> cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
> and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
> blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
> the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks.
>
> Does anyone else experience this kind of boil over running hard in warm
> weather? Do you think a 6-bladed fan will make a difference?
> It's a '63 BJ7 with the stock 4 bladed on it now. Thanks
>
> John
>
>
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 07:46:07 -0700
Subject: RE: Radiator boilover
Your speed is too high for the fan to have any effect unless the fan has
been reversed. I'd have a radiator shop look at the radiator and then try to
evaluate the cooling passages in the block for plugging.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Mondrosch, John [mailto:John.Mondrosch@icn.siemens.com]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 5:23 AM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Radiator boilover
This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3 miles
(the exits are too close together :P),
when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over, covering
the windshield with a spray of coolant and
on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks.
Does anyone else experience this kind of boil over running hard in warm
weather? Do you think a 6-bladed fan will make a difference?
It's a '63 BJ7 with the stock 4 bladed on it now. Thanks
John
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:21:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jack
Lynn and Jean
I've found that the best and most compact is a scissors jack.. Best place to
find one is at a junkyard - ask for a look at what they have from late-model
Japanese cars.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> I know I've seen some thoughts about replacement jacks for our Healeys.
> Then I did not need one...now I do.
>
> We all know what limited space we have. So what are your
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Lynn BT7
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:24:58 EDT
Subject: Healey fastback hardtop
Bob: I too saw one of these about 15 or more years ago. It was for sale
with several other Healey parts and a parts car (I stupidly passed up the
whole deal). The Hardtop was neat. Definitely used the original trunk lid.
Fit BJ7 I believe. Unlike the Factory Hardtops for BJ7, BJ8, the soft top
could remain (in down position of course) with the Hardtop in place, but not
ugly like some other aftermarket hardtops for BJ7-BJ8. Also, I remember
seeing a photo several years ago in some magazine.
Anyone out there have a photo of this?
Jim
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:30:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator boilover
Hi John-
This may not be the solution to all boil over problems, but it has worked
quite well for me. On my BJ-8 "Blackie" that I drive to most all of the
Healey meets that I attend I have installed a coolant recovery tank from an
MG-B. I made a bracket to fit in the "y" part of the right hand bulkhead
support frame section. Replace the Healey radiator cap with a Unipart #GRC123
cap (Note this is a sealing cap only, no spring) and replace the cap on the
recovery tank with a Unipart #GRC102 (7 lb. pressure) cap. Using rubber
tubing of sufficient pressure capacity connect the radiator overflow tube to
the inlet tube for the recovery tank. Put about 6-8 ounces of coolant in the
recovery tank and top up the radiator.
After you put this modification to a test of maybe an hour hard run, let the
system cool and check your coolant by removing the cap on the radiator. It
should be at the top.
This has worked so well for me that I had to try it on a fellow club member's
Sprite that had had overheating problems. It worked like a charm. Ran at
70-80 mph to Springthing and back without having to add any coolant.
Let me know what type results you achieve.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:32:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radiator boilover
John
1) replace the overflow hose
2)DON'T fill the radiator higher than the bottom of the neck
3) MOST IMPORTANT - your cap may NOT be proper. The extended seal with the
spring may not be long enough to reach the bottom of the neck. If that's the
case you have no pressure . Measure the distance from the inside of your cap
to the bottom of the sealing disc and compare with the distance from the top of
the neck to it's base. The first should exceed the second.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3 miles
> (the exits are too close together :P),
> when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over, covering
> the windshield with a spray of coolant and
> on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
> cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
> and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
> blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
> the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks.
>
> Does anyone else experience this kind of boil over running hard in warm
> weather? Do you think a 6-bladed fan will make a difference?
> It's a '63 BJ7 with the stock 4 bladed on it now. Thanks
>
> John
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:36:00 -0700
Subject: RE: BJ8 Info Sources
Hi Jim, welcome...
1. join one (or both) national club(s) and a local club
see http://dmoz.org/Recreation/Autos/Clubs/Makes/Austin_Healey/
2. read available info online
see http://www.healey.org/model-3000-mark3.shtml
3. order and read some good books
see http://www.healey.org/new-book.shtml
4. search the archives of the Austin-Healey email list
see http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys
enjoy,
- Brad
55 bn1
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jim Loewen
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 06:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Info Sources
Hi,
New to Healy-ing. Can anyone give me the
short list of good info sources?
Moss? ...
Eventually looking to rebuild a BJ8, in the
info gathering mode at this point.
Thanks
JL in ICT
________________________________________________________________________
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 09:45:27 -0600
Subject: Generator color scheme - BJ8
Can anybody tell me the correct color for the cooling fins and pulley on the
generator for a BJ8.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:46:27 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 Info Sources
In a message dated 5/26/00 10:07:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jimloewen@hotmail.com writes:
<< Hi,
New to Healy-ing. Can anyone give me the
short list of good info sources? >>
Jim L: The very short list includes:
1. This list (Healeys@autox.com)
2. Roger's and Gary's new book.
3. Factory Shop manual
4. Factory Parts book
5. Don Pikovnik's color guide
6. Concours spec.
By the way, its "Healey-ing", not "Healy-ing".
Welcome and good luck,
Jim S.
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:53:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
In a message dated 5/26/00 10:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
<< Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least damaging
to
electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks - John
>>
My .02.....HALON is the best...$123.99 from Pegasus. I once used dry
chemical on a VW. What a mess to clean up....almost better to let it burn!
Jim
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:59:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Harrington LeMans
In a message dated 5/25/00 6:51:07 PM, Jhaysp u writes:
<< None taken; I'm just going to see what it looks like and leave the
checkbook at home. Besides, owning a Healey since 1968 is risky enough for
me!
Dr. Jerry Hay
Associate Professor
Spalding University
851 South Fourth Street
Louisville, KY 40203 >>
Should be interesting -- after I gave the quick top-of-my-head answer
regarding Sunbeam Harrington Le Mans car(s), material came in from Graham
Robson about the Sunbeams as raced at Le Mans. Turns out that the Alpines
were raced at Le Mans before Shelby and others came up with the Tiger
concept. Two cars were built, one with Harrington fast-back bodywork
(actually looks more like a AC Aceca.) and one with a regular hard-top. This
was the only Alpine fitted with Harrington bodywork. Later, when Sunbeam
introduced the Tigers, Harrington bodied some of them with fastback GT tops.
Several customer Tigers also got fastback bodywork that might have been
called "Le Mans" bodywork. These show up every now and then at shows; there
are two that I know of in the San Francisco Bay area.
Let me know what the car turns out to be.
Cheers
Gary
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:58:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Around the world in China and we have changed the route for you!
In a message dated 5/26/00 11:09:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
transmancat@bbnow.net writes:
<< (seriously folks
just how do you chase ANYTHING in a Citroen 2CV?? >>
The secret to the 2CV is its suspension.....Lots of travel, lightly sprung,
and good ground clearance.
My .02
Jim
From Jimmysmth at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:13:37 EDT
Subject: RE: Around the world in China and we have changed the route for you!
In a message dated 5/26/00 11:09:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
transmancat@bbnow.net writes:
<< (seriously folks
just how do you chase ANYTHING in a Citroen 2CV?? >>
The secret to the 2CV is its suspension.....Lots of travel, lightly sprung,
and good ground clearance.
My .02
Jim
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:29:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Generator color scheme - BJ8
Green, green, green...including the nut and lockwasher on the shaft securing
the pulley.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 8:45 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Generator color scheme - BJ8
Can anybody tell me the correct color for the cooling fins and pulley on the
generator for a BJ8.
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 12:36:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator boilover
In a message dated 5/26/00 12:24:23, John.Mondrosch@icn.siemens.com writes:
<< This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3
miles
(the exits are too close together :P),
when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over, covering
the windshield with a spray of coolant and
on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks. >>
Let me guess. You have no overflow tube, and you're boiling over. Probably
have a cap that doesn't seal properly, and a dirty radiator, etc.
It's pretty normal for the coolant to overflow, uaually after filling. At
first run up to temp it will heat, expand, and blow off a bunch of water
leaving some empty space at the top of the water tank. That is normal for a
stock Healey.
What you can do to stop the mess, and run better cooling, is to get a good
cap-somewhere around 5-7 psi (the seal has to be on a long enough spring to
fit the long radiator neck). Get some tubing and run the overflow into an
overflow tank from any other car (the MGB has a good looking metal one). That
coolant will sit waiting for syphon action to use it when necc. and it wont
blow all over your car.
Rick
San Diego
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 15:21:01 -0000
Subject: RE: BJ8 Info Sources
Please allow me to humbly suggest that you include our club website in your
short list.
http://www.healey.org
Cheers,
Reid
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Loewen [SMTP:jimloewen@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 13:42
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Info Sources
Hi,
New to Healy-ing. Can anyone give me the
short list of good info sources?
Moss? ...
Eventually looking to rebuild a BJ8, in the
info gathering mode at this point.
Thanks
JL in ICT
________________________________________________________________________
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 13:04:33 EDT
Subject: 100 style windscreen for later car?
Hello listers,
Some of you know my car already (http://members.aol.com/wilko). With my
enjoyment of the 100 for styling, and the power of the big sixes in mind, I
wonder occasionally about whether the 100 stye fold down windscreen can be
fitted to a 100-Six or early 3000. I currently have a 100 aluminum dash trim
instead of the padded dash.
Issues that I wonder about are the front top bow, or if the hardtop would
come anywhere near fitting.
Just now while writing, I've just started to think that maybe some
fabrication would be in order. Has anyone hear seen this done yet?
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
From "Ledwith, Ryan S" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 13:12:56 -0400
Subject: RE: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related - or very much list r
Gee, Chris,
why don't you just make him an offer and see what he says. It really isn't
fair to get down on all people who own Austin Healey's just because one is a
capitalist (pig, if you wish). I expect that most of us are wage slaves
trying to get our cars on the road and facing whopper expenses in the
process. If someone goes to the effort to buy a batch of parts, shouldn't
they have a right to sell them at "make me an offer" price?
I'm going to make a new dash for my healey, using my woodworking tools and
skills, and thought I'd make a few extras at the same time to sell to others
who would like to upgrade their machine. I'd do it because it's fun, but I
also would like something for my efforts. How much should I charge so I
could still enjoy some profit but not appear to be a "healey-snob". I'd
probably figure 1/2 of retail, if the quality is good, or maybe I'd say...
"make me an offer".
Or, is that different because I'm being paid for my labor, versus my trading
skills? I don't make any distinction between the two. Either can be noble
or reprehensible, depending on the circumstances.
Does that mean I'm bad-guy? -- just a rhetorical question! :)
Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com [mailto:cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 10:38 AM
To: frogeye@gateway.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related
Okay, just to let the list in on what you are talking about; you won the
bid on the item. I contacted you through e-bay, since I remember you
saying you were selling all of your Healey Inventory, I thought you would
probably be interested in reselling the head. (logical assumption)
However, as is evident from the fact that you have once put your dirty
laundry (once again) into the list for everyone to see, all of the
preaching I see as to how we should all work together to keep these
splendid marques on the road and as original as possible is just a cover
for making a killing on parts. If you have a price tell me, if you just
want to see how desperate I am, forget it.
Jeez, I get so sick of hearing people talk out of both sides of their
faces. Everyone is willing to help someone find parts, but once they have
found them, they show up on e-bay with a note to the list that they are now
for sale. Anyone have the information to unsubscribe?
Chris
100-4 that will only be seen at the Hot Rod shows; not healey-snob shows.
Yea, kinda, but I'm not going to let a good head get by. YOU could have
bidded...there was only one other guy.
Now you can buy from me for more $.....
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
> What plans do you have for the E-bay Healey head? I was under the
> impression that you were getting out of the Healey parts
> business.............maybe I got my wires crossed somewhere.
>
> Chris
Chris,
Make me an offer. Sorry you were too busy to bid during the two weeks it
was listed.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
----- Original Message -----
From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 6:18 AM
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
> I would have sniped you, but I had other obligations at 11:00 at night!
> Maybe a different day............So how much are you going to upcharge a
> fellow Healey enthusiast?
>
>
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 10:24:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Harrington LeMans
Here's a couple of photos of the Tiger at Hillsborough Concours a few years
back. I could have sworn the owner told me it was one of a kind.
http://www.handsonresearch.com/images/tiger1.jpg
http://www.handsonresearch.com/images/tiger2.jpg
bk
-----------------------------------------
At 08:59 AM 5/26/00 , Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 5/25/00 6:51:07 PM, Jhaysp u writes:
>
><< None taken; I'm just going to see what it looks like and leave the
>checkbook at home. Besides, owning a Healey since 1968 is risky enough for
>me!
>
>Dr. Jerry Hay
>Associate Professor
>Spalding University
>851 South Fourth Street
>Louisville, KY 40203 >>
>
>Should be interesting -- after I gave the quick top-of-my-head answer
>regarding Sunbeam Harrington Le Mans car(s), material came in from Graham
>Robson about the Sunbeams as raced at Le Mans. Turns out that the Alpines
>were raced at Le Mans before Shelby and others came up with the Tiger
>concept. Two cars were built, one with Harrington fast-back bodywork
>(actually looks more like a AC Aceca.) and one with a regular hard-top. This
>was the only Alpine fitted with Harrington bodywork. Later, when Sunbeam
>introduced the Tigers, Harrington bodied some of them with fastback GT tops.
>Several customer Tigers also got fastback bodywork that might have been
>called "Le Mans" bodywork. These show up every now and then at shows; there
>are two that I know of in the San Francisco Bay area.
>
>Let me know what the car turns out to be.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
From Dan Ness <dness at silknet.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 13:25:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Harrington LeMans
There is a picture of a Harrington Lemans at this address:
http://www.saoc.demon.co.uk/photos.htm
Dan
Kana Communications
www.kana.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 11:59 AM
To: Jhayspu@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Harrington LeMans
In a message dated 5/25/00 6:51:07 PM, Jhaysp u writes:
<< None taken; I'm just going to see what it looks like and leave the
checkbook at home. Besides, owning a Healey since 1968 is risky enough for
me!
Dr. Jerry Hay
Associate Professor
Spalding University
851 South Fourth Street
Louisville, KY 40203 >>
Should be interesting -- after I gave the quick top-of-my-head answer
regarding Sunbeam Harrington Le Mans car(s), material came in from Graham
Robson about the Sunbeams as raced at Le Mans. Turns out that the Alpines
were raced at Le Mans before Shelby and others came up with the Tiger
concept. Two cars were built, one with Harrington fast-back bodywork
(actually looks more like a AC Aceca.) and one with a regular hard-top. This
was the only Alpine fitted with Harrington bodywork. Later, when Sunbeam
introduced the Tigers, Harrington bodied some of them with fastback GT tops.
Several customer Tigers also got fastback bodywork that might have been
called "Le Mans" bodywork. These show up every now and then at shows; there
are two that I know of in the San Francisco Bay area.
Let me know what the car turns out to be.
Cheers
Gary
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:54:48 -0600
Subject: Can't seem to catagorize this group
Listen up all you complainers.
I made every attempt to get this head to some lister (Jim)
He unfortunately did not respond until after it was listed on E-Bay. I do
not need the head, I already have several spares. But not one of you ,who
are now calling me a capitalist and other names, bothered to bid. The one
who did, under bid me. I'd say tough luck.
There are a number of us who take the time to answer some of the dumbest
questions.Like " How high do I have to jack my car up to take the wheels
off " I propose that a large group of listers is just looking for the easy
answer and the cheapest way to solve their problems at others expense. Many
of you need to buy a book and read how to do some of this stuff on your own.
Yes, this is my business and I depend on it to pay my mortgage and put food
on the table. I do it because I enjoy it too, but I can't give away parts
that I have already paid for just because we are "fellow enthusiasts".
So to those who are throwing the stones at me, well I think I told you..
off the list. Dave
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
click below for pictures
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 10:59:28 -0700
Subject: Take this stuff off line!!!
Who needs to go through another round of this BS in public? Didn't we get
enough with the damn Texas Cooler crap? Give it a rest already.
----------------------------------
At 10:12 AM 5/26/00 , you wrote:
>Gee, Chris,
>
>why don't you just make him an offer and see what he says. It really isn't
>fair to get down on all people who own Austin Healey's just because one is a
>capitalist (pig, if you wish). I expect that most of us are wage slaves
>trying to get our cars on the road and facing whopper expenses in the
>process. If someone goes to the effort to buy a batch of parts, shouldn't
>they have a right to sell them at "make me an offer" price?
>
>I'm going to make a new dash for my healey, using my woodworking tools and
>skills, and thought I'd make a few extras at the same time to sell to others
>who would like to upgrade their machine. I'd do it because it's fun, but I
>also would like something for my efforts. How much should I charge so I
>could still enjoy some profit but not appear to be a "healey-snob". I'd
>probably figure 1/2 of retail, if the quality is good, or maybe I'd say...
>"make me an offer".
>
>Or, is that different because I'm being paid for my labor, versus my trading
>skills? I don't make any distinction between the two. Either can be noble
>or reprehensible, depending on the circumstances.
>
>Does that mean I'm bad-guy? -- just a rhetorical question! :)
>
>Ryan
>64 BJ7
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com [mailto:cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 10:38 AM
>To: frogeye@gateway.net; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related
>
>
>
>Okay, just to let the list in on what you are talking about; you won the
>bid on the item. I contacted you through e-bay, since I remember you
>saying you were selling all of your Healey Inventory, I thought you would
>probably be interested in reselling the head. (logical assumption)
>However, as is evident from the fact that you have once put your dirty
>laundry (once again) into the list for everyone to see, all of the
>preaching I see as to how we should all work together to keep these
>splendid marques on the road and as original as possible is just a cover
>for making a killing on parts. If you have a price tell me, if you just
>want to see how desperate I am, forget it.
>
>Jeez, I get so sick of hearing people talk out of both sides of their
>faces. Everyone is willing to help someone find parts, but once they have
>found them, they show up on e-bay with a note to the list that they are now
>for sale. Anyone have the information to unsubscribe?
>
>Chris
>100-4 that will only be seen at the Hot Rod shows; not healey-snob shows.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yea, kinda, but I'm not going to let a good head get by. YOU could have
>bidded...there was only one other guy.
>Now you can buy from me for more $.....
>
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>click below for pictures
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
>To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:57 AM
>Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
>
> >
> > What plans do you have for the E-bay Healey head? I was under the
> > impression that you were getting out of the Healey parts
> > business.............maybe I got my wires crossed somewhere.
> >
> > Chris
>
>
>Chris,
> Make me an offer. Sorry you were too busy to bid during the two weeks it
>was listed.
>
>Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
>click below for pictures
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/193/FSLO-947281688-900193.jpg
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/046/FSLO-952093816-742046.jpg
>http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/802/FSLO-952194843-487802.jpg
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <cstinehelfer@bajamarine.com>
>To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 6:18 AM
>Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
>
>
> >
> > I would have sniped you, but I had other obligations at 11:00 at night!
> > Maybe a different day............So how much are you going to upcharge a
> > fellow Healey enthusiast?
> >
> >
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 14:09:06 -0500
Subject: Thanks for "Lip Service"
Thanks to those who responded to my front shroud lip question. Consensus
is that the shroud covers the frame extensions.
Back to mallet, sandbag and lots of cussing.....
Adnan
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 15:18:40 EDT
Subject: An uncatagorical answer....
In a message dated 5/26/00 2:13:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frogeye@gateway.net writes:
<< " How high do I have to jack my car up to take the wheels
off " >>
Despite the fact that you have ended a sentence with a preposition (a mistake
up with which I shall not put!), I think you have posed an interesting
question. At first glance I would say "Until the tire is off the ground."
But let us suppose that this is a flat tire, Dave. Then, although the above
answer might indeed be correct, it would not be "right". So. as with so many
Healey-related issues, I guess the correct response is: "It depends".
Chow--Michael
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 15:32:36 EDT
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
Knock-offs on the BN1s through 1955 were steel. On the BN2s and all 6-cyl
cars they were bronze.
Some repros have the correct lettering stamped into their faces. HOWEVER, if
you look at the ears on edge, you'll find that the original ones are thicker
out at the tip than the repros. THe repros have a distinct taper from ear
base to tip, while the originals are almost parallel in comparison. Unless
the lettering is damaged, I'd always try to repair an original.
Roger
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 15:57:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Jack
dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> Lynn and Jean
>
> I've found that the best and most compact is a scissors jack.. Best place to
>find one is at a junkyard - ask for a look at what they have from late-model
>Japanese cars.
>
> DickB
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > I know I've seen some thoughts about replacement jacks for our Healeys.
> > Then I did not need one...now I do.
> >
> > We all know what limited space we have. So what are your
> > recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Lynn BT7
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
Lynn,
I agree with Dick. Got one junk from a yard out of a late model
something. Brand new, with vinyl bag for $10. Fits nicely in storage
compt.
Keith Pennell
BJ8 Baby Car
BN7 Patches
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 16:05:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related - or very much list r
elated.
Would you guys please fight on your own time...many of us would rather read
about a Healey.
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 13:23:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
Jimmy,
Choice of a fire extinguisher should always be governed by the kind of fire
you may need to put out. If it's only a wood and fabric fire, buy an "A"
rated extringuisher. It you're exprect gasoline or other highly flammable
stuff, then you need a "B" rated extinguisher. Should chemicals also be part
of the hazard, then you want one that's "C" rated.
No, you don't have to buy three fire extinguishers.
You can get a single extingquisher that's rated "A,B and C" and you've
covered the ground. It's a good bet that if your Healey is burning (God
forbid), all three possibilities will exist.
And forget what anyone says about "mess." If someone is trapped inside a
car and it lights up, who gives a damn about the 'mess' it creates? Your
only concern is about how fast and how efficiently you extringuisher
smothers the flames.
----------
>From: Jimmysmth@aol.com
>To: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
>Date: Fri, May 26, 2000, 3:53 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/26/00 10:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
>
> << Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least damaging
> to
> electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks - John
>>>
>
> My .02.....HALON is the best...$123.99 from Pegasus. I once used dry
> chemical on a VW. What a mess to clean up....almost better to let it burn!
>
> Jim
----------
>From: Jimmysmth@aol.com
>To: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
>Date: Fri, May 26, 2000, 3:53 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/26/00 10:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
>
> << Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least damaging
> to
> electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks - John
>>>
>
> My .02.....HALON is the best...$123.99 from Pegasus. I once used dry
> chemical on a VW. What a mess to clean up....almost better to let it burn!
>
> Jim
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 16:31:43 -0400
Subject: RE: Fire Extinguishers
please be advised that HALON as clean as it is can cause bleeding of the
lungs if get a good whiff of it.
-----Original Message-----
From: rons [mailto:arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 9:24 AM
To: Jimmysmth@aol.com; jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
Jimmy,
Choice of a fire extinguisher should always be governed by the kind of fire
you may need to put out. If it's only a wood and fabric fire, buy an "A"
rated extringuisher. It you're exprect gasoline or other highly flammable
stuff, then you need a "B" rated extinguisher. Should chemicals also be part
of the hazard, then you want one that's "C" rated.
No, you don't have to buy three fire extinguishers.
You can get a single extingquisher that's rated "A,B and C" and you've
covered the ground. It's a good bet that if your Healey is burning (God
forbid), all three possibilities will exist.
And forget what anyone says about "mess." If someone is trapped inside a
car and it lights up, who gives a damn about the 'mess' it creates? Your
only concern is about how fast and how efficiently you extringuisher
smothers the flames.
----------
>From: Jimmysmth@aol.com
>To: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
>Date: Fri, May 26, 2000, 3:53 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/26/00 10:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
>
> << Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least
damaging
> to
> electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks -
John
>>>
>
> My .02.....HALON is the best...$123.99 from Pegasus. I once used dry
> chemical on a VW. What a mess to clean up....almost better to let it
burn!
>
> Jim
----------
>From: Jimmysmth@aol.com
>To: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
>Date: Fri, May 26, 2000, 3:53 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/26/00 10:40:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us writes:
>
> << Recommendations, please? Which types are most effective and least
damaging
> to
> electrical and mechanical systems? Need one to carry in car. - Thanks -
John
>>>
>
> My .02.....HALON is the best...$123.99 from Pegasus. I once used dry
> chemical on a VW. What a mess to clean up....almost better to let it
burn!
>
> Jim
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 14:22:19 -0600
Subject: Rebuilding front end
I'm wondering if someone could tellme whether or not I should be
lubricating pieces when I assemble the front end of my car?
Specifically I'm referring to the bushes and pin assemblies of the inner
lower link. When I took this assembly apart I recall it was quite
siezed together. Is there anything that I should do so that a future
owner of the car will not have the same problems that I did?
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 14:30:47 -0600
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>
> Knock-offs on the BN1s through 1955 were steel. On the BN2s and all 6-cyl
> cars they were bronze.
>
> Some repros have the correct lettering stamped into their faces. HOWEVER, if
> you look at the ears on edge, you'll find that the original ones are thicker
> out at the tip than the repros. THe repros have a distinct taper from ear
> base to tip, while the originals are almost parallel in comparison. Unless
> the lettering is damaged, I'd always try to repair an original.
>
> Roger
This is a two part question. First, is it possible to tighten the
knockoffs too tight that they would infact damage either the knockoff or
the hub extension? Second, Roger you were saying that you often have
the knockoffs restored. What is the best way to remove the chrome so
that I can file all of the knicks out? I have to do this for the
forward feet for my windshield as well.
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 16:48:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
Any suggestions from the experts on how to tell if your Healey engine mounts
need replacing? Replacing motor mounts is a common requirement on most cars
but I don't think I can ever remember anyone replacing one on a Healey other
than as part of a full restoration.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
1957 BN4 Rally Car
1966 BJ8
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 17:44:54 EDT
Subject: Second Newest Healey Book for sale
Hi Listers,
Several months ago, someone posted a website to purchase the newest
Austin-Healey book (at that time), The Road to Beijing by David Brayshaw
being published in England. Having dealings in the past with England for car
models, books and other Healey related regalia, I wrote and called them and
ordered a small quantity of these books for sale to other Healey fans.
This is a softbound book of 178 pages with 21 black & white photographs. It
covers the 8,003 mile route from London to Beijing via the Trans Siberian
Highway in their 1960 Healey. Anyone who has been following the Around The
World Rallye will have some indication of the contents of this trek. The
price is $15 plus $2 shipping. Please contact me off list if you are
interested or have any questions.
Rudy Streng in NC
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 18:35:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 100 style windscreen for later car?
I've seen it done on a Red Roadster (BN4 - BT7) by someone from the Carolinas
or Virginia as I recall.
Saw it at Conclave Montebello or Atlanta I think.
DickB
---- you wrote:
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Some of you know my car already (http://members.aol.com/wilko). With my
> enjoyment of the 100 for styling, and the power of the big sixes in mind, I
> wonder occasionally about whether the 100 stye fold down windscreen can be
> fitted to a 100-Six or early 3000. I currently have a 100 aluminum dash trim
> instead of the padded dash.
> Issues that I wonder about are the front top bow, or if the hardtop would
> come anywhere near fitting.
> Just now while writing, I've just started to think that maybe some
> fabrication would be in order. Has anyone hear seen this done yet?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> San Diego
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 18:38:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
First check to see if there is the proper gap between the "rebound" rubber
buffer and the main engine mount. There should be gap sufficient to pass a
business card thru. If the rebound rubber is resting firmly against the main
engine mount, I would replace it.
I just replaced mine on my BJ-8 "Blackie" about three weeks ago in
preparation for my trip to Springthing and found the drivers side mount was
completely sheared. Seems as though I didn't take check them soon enough, but
that right side is rather hard to check.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 20:15:40 -0400
Subject: Sprite rear brakes
Hi folks,
A few weeks ago I noted to the list about a problem of having newly lined
brake shoes, and good drums with plenty of thickness. The problem was that
the snail cam adjusters were out to their maximum adjustment and the shoes
were barely able to contact the drums.
Follow up:
I discovered by comparison with other shoes that some previous son-of-a,
ahem....person, had ground the ends of the brake shoe webs down about 3/16"
at each end, probably to fit oversized linings. Now here I was with correct
thickness linings freshly bonded to these shoes, trying to make things work.
Solution:
Carefully built up the ends with MIG, dress ground back to correct size and
shape, and installed all as per the book.
Results: The asembly adjusted up properly at about the 4th click of the
adjuster, and once the old stretched handbrake cable (another seperate
issue) was replaced with a new one, believe it or not about 1 5/8" shorter,
everything comes together beautifully. The rear wheels obtain full lock on
the 4th click of the handbrake ratchet.
Moral of the Story:
Don't trust that things haven't already been bastardized or otherwise
tampered with before you got there, no matter how neat a job it appears!
Hope this helps someone some day.
If someone reading this is on the Spridget list, please pass it along.
Thanks.
Rich Chrysler
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 20:19:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
In a message dated 05/26/2000 3:31:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< please be advised that HALON as clean as it is can cause bleeding of the
lungs if get a good whiff of it.
>>
AND, is not legal in most States anymore.
Ed
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 21:07:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Sprite rear brakes
Hey Richard,
Probably some son-of-a-flat rate mechanic ;-)
Aren't you glad you don't do this for a living?
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
RL Chrysler wrote:
> Hi folks,
> A few weeks ago I noted to the list about a problem of having newly lined
> brake shoes, and good drums with plenty of thickness. The problem was that
> the snail cam adjusters were out to their maximum adjustment and the shoes
> were barely able to contact the drums.
> Follow up:
> I discovered by comparison with other shoes that some previous son-of-a,
> ahem....person, had ground the ends of the brake shoe webs down about 3/16"
> at each end, probably to fit oversized linings. Now here I was with correct
> thickness linings freshly bonded to these shoes, trying to make things work.
> Solution:
> Carefully built up the ends with MIG, dress ground back to correct size and
> shape, and installed all as per the book.
> Results: The asembly adjusted up properly at about the 4th click of the
> adjuster, and once the old stretched handbrake cable (another seperate
> issue) was replaced with a new one, believe it or not about 1 5/8" shorter,
> everything comes together beautifully. The rear wheels obtain full lock on
> the 4th click of the handbrake ratchet.
> Moral of the Story:
> Don't trust that things haven't already been bastardized or otherwise
> tampered with before you got there, no matter how neat a job it appears!
> Hope this helps someone some day.
> If someone reading this is on the Spridget list, please pass it along.
> Thanks.
> Rich Chrysler
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 18:51:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
"Gap between the "rebound" rubber buffer and the main engine mount" could
some please explain the reason for this gap. I have heard it mentioned on
prior posts. Thanks, Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <MBran89793@aol.com>
To: <BGAHC@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
>
> First check to see if there is the proper gap between the "rebound" rubber
> buffer and the main engine mount. There should be gap sufficient to pass a
> business card thru. If the rebound rubber is resting firmly against the
main
> engine mount, I would replace it.
> I just replaced mine on my BJ-8 "Blackie" about three weeks ago in
> preparation for my trip to Springthing and found the drivers side mount
was
> completely sheared. Seems as though I didn't take check them soon enough,
but
> that right side is rather hard to check.
>
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
> Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
> AHCA Liason for Concours
>
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 22:10:04 -0400
Subject: re: bodywork
No cussing allowed , It's called patience, patience, patience .
and don't give up !
Carroll TDR
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 22:21:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
In a message dated 5/26/00 8:28:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
JustBrits@aol.com writes:
<< AND, is not legal in most States anymore. >>
There is a "Substitute" Halon--1301 or something like that --that is legal
and supposedly just as effective as the old, ozone-destructive agent. Check
with any fire-extinguisher shop and they will fill you in.
Michael
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 22:24:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
The "rebound" mount gap allows the engine to move very slightly as the engine
moves under torque load and/or a severe bump from running thru a pot hole. It
also keeps the main engine mount from being put into an extreme shear point.
In an extreme shear situation the rubber would literally become detached from
the metal plates of the mount.
I hope this answers your question.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liason for Concours
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 14:25:23 -0000
Subject: RE: 3000S
Hi all,
I was surprised that no one seemed to answer the original question about
the existence of a "3000S" Healey. Thought sure several people would jump
in. Maybe this is isn't as well known as I thought. Seems like I remember
info about them in Geoff Healey's book, "The Specials," or maybe one of the
other books on Healeys; my Healey library is not handy these days as it is
in storage preparing for an upcoming move to Tampa.
In any case, there are (at least) two coupes made from six-cylinder
Healeys, one of which is, I believe, informally known as a 3000S. As Pat
Quinn mentioned, one is red and one is blue. They are both owned by the
same gentlemen. When I was editor of Austin-Healey Magazine lo these many
years ago, I went to his home in the English Midlands to photograph them
for a feature in the mag. Unfortunately it was a rainy and drizzling day
and he did not want to expose them to it. I did the best I could
photographing them in their cramped garage, and did publish a photo or two
in the mag; must have been 1986 or 87 I'd say. Probably a December issue.
I understand that he still owns these two very historic cars, but has
steadfastly refused numerous offers to buy them over many years. His name
escapes me at the moment, but if you're really interested I can get you in
contact.
Cheers,
Reid
http://www.healey.org
From "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02 at snet.net>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 09:20:50 -0400
Subject: Fw: <WTB> AH 100 Fuel Gauge
I am looking to purchase a good used AH100 fuel gauge that can be rebuilt.
I sent mine to Palo Alto Speedo for rebuilding and they lost it !
They then tried to rebuild and pass off a AH 3000 MKIII fuel gauge as mine.
Nice try !
They said that they will make it right, we will see...
Thank You,
Alan Alfano
1956 Austin-Healey 100M (2)
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 09:47:00 EDT
Subject: Halogen Bulbs Source
Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light bulbs for my
'65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't see the
add any longer. Thanks for your help.
Rich Antal
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 10:42:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Rich
The Healey Marque dropped the ad for a couple of months, why I don't know, and
it will resume next issue.
H1157 Halogens (twin filament) are $35/pair and H1156 (single filament) are
$30/pair, including S&H.
Your BJ8 has two pair of tail lights and two pair of front lights, serving
turn, marker/running and brake/stop. You need H1157s in the marker/brake
lights (Rear) and H1156s in the turn signals (Rear) and in both sets of front
lights.
Send your check ,made out to Dick Brill, to me, @ 1400 Rice Creek Road NE,
Fridley, MN 55432 and enclose your requirements and your Complete address.
Regards,
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
> Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
> Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light bulbs for my
> '65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't see the
> add any longer. Thanks for your help.
> Rich Antal
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 10:42:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Rich
The Healey Marque dropped the ad for a couple of months, why I don't know, and
it will resume next issue.
H1157 Halogens (twin filament) are $35/pair and H1156 (single filament) are
$30/pair, including S&H.
Your BJ8 has two pair of tail lights and two pair of front lights, serving
turn, marker/running and brake/stop. You need H1157s in the marker/brake
lights (Rear) and H1156s in the turn signals (Rear) and in both sets of front
lights.
Send your check ,made out to Dick Brill, to me, @ 1400 Rice Creek Road NE,
Fridley, MN 55432 and enclose your requirements and your Complete address.
Regards,
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
>
> Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
> Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light bulbs for my
> '65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't see the
> add any longer. Thanks for your help.
> Rich Antal
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 10:48:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
After this exchange of emails withDon I headed over to my local Menards to find
the Insulating Blankets.
IF ANY OTHER LISTERS WANT SOME AND CAN'T LOCATE THEM, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL BUY
SOME AND SEND THEM TO YOU.
Don, I'll email you the results of my serach this AM
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
> Hi, Dick
> I've played out the string here, and can't find the smoker
> blanket you described. After a strong start, I've heard no more from
> Char-Broil, so I give up! I hate to ask you for the favor, but, yes,
> if you would buy two of the blankets for me, I'd GREATLY appreciate
> it. Please let me know the cost, and I'll send you a check for the
> amount, plus shipping. My address is:
> L.D. Gschwind
> 706 Westview Rd.
> Bloomfield Hills, MI, 48304
> Thanks,
> DON
> BJ8 ` Pandora
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
>
>
> > Don
> >
> > I got mine at Menard's. If youcan't find them - "Blanket for
> enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> you (if you send me your address) <G>
> >
> > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> anything like that.
> >
> > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> kind of a dirt and water trap.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Hi, DickB
> > > I caught your info on the line the other night, and I'm
> now at
> > > the point, almost, of re-installing the tranny tunnel. I'd like to
> > > take advantage of this blanket, but I can't find one. Can you give
> me
> > > any more info, such as a part no., model no., etc., please? I've
> > > called Char-Broil, and they are "looking" for some thing now. The
> lady
> > > asked for a model number, and she went blank when I said "3000
> Mark
> > > III, Stage 2". Seriously, though, if you can tell me any more
> about
> > > it, it may help. Can't find one near Detroit.
> > > Also, did you apply this inside the tunnel, or on the
> outside
> > > under the carpet? If inside, how did you attacvhg it? Thanks for
> any
> > > help you can give me.
> > > DON
> > > BJ8 Pandora
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 10:47:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
After this exchange of emails withDon I headed over to my local Menards to find
the Insulating Blankets.
IF ANY OTHER LISTERS WANT SOME AND CAN'T LOCATE THEM, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL BUY
SOME AND SEND THEM TO YOU.
Don, I'll email you the results of my serach this AM
Dick Brill
---- you wrote:
> Hi, Dick
> I've played out the string here, and can't find the smoker
> blanket you described. After a strong start, I've heard no more from
> Char-Broil, so I give up! I hate to ask you for the favor, but, yes,
> if you would buy two of the blankets for me, I'd GREATLY appreciate
> it. Please let me know the cost, and I'll send you a check for the
> amount, plus shipping. My address is:
> L.D. Gschwind
> 706 Westview Rd.
> Bloomfield Hills, MI, 48304
> Thanks,
> DON
> BJ8 ` Pandora
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
>
>
> > Don
> >
> > I got mine at Menard's. If youcan't find them - "Blanket for
> enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> you (if you send me your address) <G>
> >
> > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> anything like that.
> >
> > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> kind of a dirt and water trap.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Hi, DickB
> > > I caught your info on the line the other night, and I'm
> now at
> > > the point, almost, of re-installing the tranny tunnel. I'd like to
> > > take advantage of this blanket, but I can't find one. Can you give
> me
> > > any more info, such as a part no., model no., etc., please? I've
> > > called Char-Broil, and they are "looking" for some thing now. The
> lady
> > > asked for a model number, and she went blank when I said "3000
> Mark
> > > III, Stage 2". Seriously, though, if you can tell me any more
> about
> > > it, it may help. Can't find one near Detroit.
> > > Also, did you apply this inside the tunnel, or on the
> outside
> > > under the carpet? If inside, how did you attacvhg it? Thanks for
> any
> > > help you can give me.
> > > DON
> > > BJ8 Pandora
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 12:46:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine mounts and Gearbox mount recap
In a message dated 5/26/00 7:25:11 PM, neilberg@telus.net writes:
<< "Gap between the "rebound" rubber buffer and the main engine mount" could
some please explain the reason for this gap. I have heard it mentioned on
prior posts. Thanks, Neil >>
The rebound buffer is there just for the purpose of catching the engine if it
bounces. It is quite thin and its support was never intended to support the
weight of the engine. However, as the main support rubber wears out and the
engine sinks, the rebound support winds up supporting the weight of the
engine.
Cheers
Gary
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:22:17 -0400
Subject: RE: Cylinder head on EBAY, not list related
Chris, don't unsubscribe because of a few greedy people, most of us are into
it because of love for the cars not the money.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 17:52:41 -0400
Subject: Re: knockoff hubs
Bill: I had a similar experience with the threads of a cap shearing off. I
lived in San Francisco at the time and the left front cap came off, followed by
the tire. Fortunately I was out by Golden Gate Park on a flat stretch traveling
at a slow speed, so the car just clunked down on the drum and the tire rolled
about 500' before climbing onto someone's lawn without hitting anything. At the
time, I lived on California Street on the hill leading down to the Ferry
Building,
and if it had happened there, the tire would have hit the Ferry Building at
about
90 (unless it hit something or someone before that). It's a scary event, even
at
slow speed, and the feeling of helplessness at seeing your tire rolling away on
your own is a little sickening. The drum was bent out of round, but the hub and
the wheel seemed okay. I replaced the cap and drove about another 20,000 miles
without problems. I had not tightened the cap recently and was not driving hard
at the time, so I never could put my finger on why it happened. Regarding your
change, I assume the tines on the 8 tpi are longer and more subtaintial than the
12 tpi, and also that new wheels must be purchased? Joe.
TRICARB@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/25/00 11:13:46 PM GMT Daylight Time, byers@cconnect.net
> writes:
> << Whack on them until they no longer appear to move. I decided when I bought
> new knockoffs to go with my new chrome wires never to hit the knockoffs
> directly with any kind of hammer. I put a piece of 2 x 4 on the knockoff
> ear and hit that with the hammer. After the knockoff is on, I paint a small
> line from the wheel hub to the knockoff (or a dot of paint on each). This
> gives a quick visual indication of whether the knockoff is moving in
> relation to the wheel. So far, I have never had one move. Also, after 10
> years, the knockoffs still look brand new.
> >>
> Hi Steve,
> This is good advice, the painting of a dot to mark where the knockoff
> should be.
> Let me tell you [and others] a chilling experience! My wife and I were
> leading a group of Healeys on a tour returning from Park City, the 45th
> International Healey Celebration.
> We took a route up through Idaho's Sun Valley and through the very
> crooked Stanley Basin/Loman Road to Boise.
> As we came out of the torturous roads and came to a stop light my wife
> heard a knocking sound up front. She alighted and touched the right front
> knockoff, whereupon it fell off!
> Well, had not my front wheel been so totally rusted on, we would not be
> here telling this tale.
> It was a real hassle getting the wheel off of the saving spline! The
> knockoff was completely stripped of threads!! I had taken the hammer and
> tightened all of the knockoffs the night before!
> I think that, over time of tightening the knockoffs, I had done severe
> damage to the threads of the knockoff. That should be somewhat easy to do,
> it being brass.
> Scary to say the least!!
> If it were not for rust the rest is dust!!
>
> I am changing all of my Healeys to 8 tpi splines from the 12 tpi ones on
> the rear. And I will make sure that the front knockoff/splines are in good
> shape.
> Cheers, Bill
>
> Ps I would be interested in hearing any similar experiences.
From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 17:56:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Jack
L &J: I carry a Toyota piston type jack that I think is for a Forerunner.
I ended up with it because I could not find what I wanted, which was a jack
from a 1972 Datsun pickup truck. Joe.
Lynn and Jean Neff wrote:
> I know I've seen some thoughts about replacement jacks for our Healeys.
> Then I did not need one...now I do.
>
> We all know what limited space we have. So what are your
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Lynn BT7
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 16:02:36 -0700
Subject: Healeys on the green, pictures!
San Diego's Healeys on the Green, is my favorite event of the year. It's
Healeydom at it's finest. Just The Cars on green grass and a picnic lunch. What
could be better? Here is a link to a ton of pictures I shot. Some of the big
pictures at the bottom are large enough to use as a desktop background if you
so choose. :-)
http://www.sdhealey.org/hog/hogpix.htm
Check them out, and take a look at our club page while you're at it.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Vice-President Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 23:19:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
Don
I bought you two of the blankets today at Menards. Cost was $10.63 including
tax. As soon as I figure a way to wrap them/box them I'll mail them.
Wait til you get them if you want and send me the cost plus the postage shown
on the package, or send me $15.00 now if you prefer.
I'll mail them Tuesday.
Dick
---- you wrote:
> Hi, Dick
> I've played out the string here, and can't find the smoker
> blanket you described. After a strong start, I've heard no more from
> Char-Broil, so I give up! I hate to ask you for the favor, but, yes,
> if you would buy two of the blankets for me, I'd GREATLY appreciate
> it. Please let me know the cost, and I'll send you a check for the
> amount, plus shipping. My address is:
> L.D. Gschwind
> 706 Westview Rd.
> Bloomfield Hills, MI, 48304
> Thanks,
> DON
> BJ8 ` Pandora
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
>
>
> > Don
> >
> > I got mine at Menard's. If youcan't find them - "Blanket for
> enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> you (if you send me your address) <G>
> >
> > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> anything like that.
> >
> > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> kind of a dirt and water trap.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Hi, DickB
> > > I caught your info on the line the other night, and I'm
> now at
> > > the point, almost, of re-installing the tranny tunnel. I'd like to
> > > take advantage of this blanket, but I can't find one. Can you give
> me
> > > any more info, such as a part no., model no., etc., please? I've
> > > called Char-Broil, and they are "looking" for some thing now. The
> lady
> > > asked for a model number, and she went blank when I said "3000
> Mark
> > > III, Stage 2". Seriously, though, if you can tell me any more
> about
> > > it, it may help. Can't find one near Detroit.
> > > Also, did you apply this inside the tunnel, or on the
> outside
> > > under the carpet? If inside, how did you attacvhg it? Thanks for
> any
> > > help you can give me.
> > > DON
> > > BJ8 Pandora
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 00:33:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Hi, Rich
I've had very good success getting almost any part I need
through the Little British Car Company. Their web sight is
www.LBCarCo.com,
and the email is lbcarco@lbcarco.com. Good luck and hope this helps.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: Halogen Bulbs Source
>
> Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
> Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light
bulbs for my
> '65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't
see the
> add any longer. Thanks for your help.
> Rich Antal
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 17:55:26 -0600
Subject: MG Midget parts
Some months ago I let the list know of my unfortunate experience with JIM
GIORDANO from whom I had ordered parts which were paid for but never
received---well, I am happy to relate that he has now refunded my money, so
all is well.
BRUCE STARKE
GOLDEN BC
1962 tricarb
1963 BJ7
1962 GAN1 Midget (the wife's)
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 23:57:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator boilover
Running at the speed limit might help. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mondrosch, John <John.Mondrosch@icn.siemens.com>
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 26, 2000 8:25 AM
Subject: Radiator boilover
>
>This has happened twice now. After running at 85-90 MPH for about 2-3
miles
>(the exits are too close together :P),
>when I back it down to a more reasonable 75 my radiator boils over,
covering
>the windshield with a spray of coolant and
>on the driver's side a puddle creeps up toward me in the crease on the
>cowling. Ambient tempature is at least 80 degrees.
>and the overflow hose is rotted off so I can understand the coolant being
>blown up over the hood as it's escaping right by
>the cap. I haven't been able to detect any other leaks.
>
>Does anyone else experience this kind of boil over running hard in warm
>weather? Do you think a 6-bladed fan will make a difference?
>It's a '63 BJ7 with the stock 4 bladed on it now. Thanks
>
>John
>
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 03:24:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Gee Don
Did you ask the Little British Car Company to get you the Insulating Blankets?
Did they want to mark them up? Do you Know that they have Halogen 1157s and
1156s or do you just do a little gratuitous PR work for them?
---- you wrote:
>
> Hi, Rich
> I've had very good success getting almost any part I need
> through the Little British Car Company. Their web sight is
> www.LBCarCo.com,
> and the email is lbcarco@lbcarco.com. Good luck and hope this helps.
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 9:47 AM
> Subject: Halogen Bulbs Source
>
>
> >
> > Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
> > Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light
> bulbs for my
> > '65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't
> see the
> > add any longer. Thanks for your help.
> > Rich Antal
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 19:47:03 +0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Dick
Life's a bitch and there are some bitches out there. Some people have no
conception of the result of their actions.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in resto. (Slowly)
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Don Gschwind <DGSCHWIND@prodigy.net>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2000 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
>
> Gee Don
>
> Did you ask the Little British Car Company to get you the Insulating
Blankets? Did they want to mark them up? Do you Know that they have
Halogen 1157s and 1156s or do you just do a little gratuitous PR work for
them?
>
> ---- you wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Rich
> > I've had very good success getting almost any part I need
> > through the Little British Car Company. Their web sight is
> > www.LBCarCo.com,
> > and the email is lbcarco@lbcarco.com. Good luck and hope this helps.
> > DON
> > BJ8 Pandora
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <RAntal243@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 9:47 AM
> > Subject: Halogen Bulbs Source
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Greetings Healey Brothers(and Sisters),
> > > Can anyone provide me with a source for Halogen tail light
> > bulbs for my
> > > '65 BJ8. They used to be advertised in the club magazine but I don't
> > see the
> > > add any longer. Thanks for your help.
> > > Rich Antal
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 12:38:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
I'll be glad to do it Phil.
Send me a check for $15.00 - made out to Dick Brill - and I'll go buy you a
couple and mail them to you.
Any others on the List can do the same and make sure you enclose your complete
address.
Dick B
---- you wrote:
> Dick;
>
> I own a 100-6 and am dying of the heat! I checked at my local Lowe's and Home
>depot and BBQ stores and can't
> locate the smokers blankets. I would greatly appreciate it if you could pick
>up a couple for me. I would
> certainly reemburse you for your out of pocket.
>
> Thanks for the offer in the E mail!
>
> Phil Hall 414 Primrose Dr
> Greensburg, PA
> 15601
>
>
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > After this exchange of emails withDon I headed over to my local Menards to
>find the Insulating Blankets.
> >
> > IF ANY OTHER LISTERS WANT SOME AND CAN'T LOCATE THEM, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL
>BUY SOME AND SEND THEM TO YOU.
> >
> > Don, I'll email you the results of my serach this AM
> >
> > Dick Brill
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Hi, Dick
> > > I've played out the string here, and can't find the smoker
> > > blanket you described. After a strong start, I've heard no more from
> > > Char-Broil, so I give up! I hate to ask you for the favor, but, yes,
> > > if you would buy two of the blankets for me, I'd GREATLY appreciate
> > > it. Please let me know the cost, and I'll send you a check for the
> > > amount, plus shipping. My address is:
> > > L.D. Gschwind
> > > 706 Westview Rd.
> > > Bloomfield Hills, MI, 48304
> > > Thanks,
> > > DON
> > > BJ8 ` Pandora
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > > To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 10:44 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
> > >
> > >
> > > > Don
> > > >
> > > > I got mine at Menard's. If youcan't find them - "Blanket for
> > > enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> > > let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> > > you (if you send me your address) <G>
> > > >
> > > > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> > > floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> > > material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> > > the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> > > anything like that.
> > > >
> > > > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> > > kind of a dirt and water trap.
> > > >
> > > > Dick
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > > > Hi, DickB
> > > > > I caught your info on the line the other night, and I'm
> > > now at
> > > > > the point, almost, of re-installing the tranny tunnel. I'd like to
> > > > > take advantage of this blanket, but I can't find one. Can you give
> > > me
> > > > > any more info, such as a part no., model no., etc., please? I've
> > > > > called Char-Broil, and they are "looking" for some thing now. The
> > > lady
> > > > > asked for a model number, and she went blank when I said "3000
> > > Mark
> > > > > III, Stage 2". Seriously, though, if you can tell me any more
> > > about
> > > > > it, it may help. Can't find one near Detroit.
> > > > > Also, did you apply this inside the tunnel, or on the
> > > outside
> > > > > under the carpet? If inside, how did you attacvhg it? Thanks for
> > > any
> > > > > help you can give me.
> > > > > DON
> > > > > BJ8 Pandora
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 12:58:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
Richard H Brill
1400 Rice Creek Road NE
Fridley, MN 55432
---- you wrote:
> Dick;
>
> I've written out the check already..... Now all I need is your address!
>
> Thanks again for your generous offer!
>
> Phil
>
> dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
>
> > I'll be glad to do it Phil.
> >
> > Send me a check for $15.00 - made out to Dick Brill - and I'll go buy you a
>couple and mail them to you.
> >
> > Any others on the List can do the same and make sure you enclose your
>complete address.
> >
> > Dick B
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> > > Dick;
> > >
> > > I own a 100-6 and am dying of the heat! I checked at my local Lowe's and
>Home depot and BBQ stores and can't
> > > locate the smokers blankets. I would greatly appreciate it if you could
>pick up a couple for me. I would
> > > certainly reemburse you for your out of pocket.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the offer in the E mail!
> > >
> > > Phil Hall 414 Primrose Dr
> > > Greensburg, PA
> > > 15601
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > dickb@cheerful.com wrote:
> > >
> > > > After this exchange of emails withDon I headed over to my local Menards
>to find the Insulating Blankets.
> > > >
> > > > IF ANY OTHER LISTERS WANT SOME AND CAN'T LOCATE THEM, LET ME KNOW AND
>I'LL BUY SOME AND SEND THEM TO YOU.
> > > >
> > > > Don, I'll email you the results of my serach this AM
> > > >
> > > > Dick Brill
> > > >
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > > > Hi, Dick
> > > > > I've played out the string here, and can't find the smoker
> > > > > blanket you described. After a strong start, I've heard no more from
> > > > > Char-Broil, so I give up! I hate to ask you for the favor, but, yes,
> > > > > if you would buy two of the blankets for me, I'd GREATLY appreciate
> > > > > it. Please let me know the cost, and I'll send you a check for the
> > > > > amount, plus shipping. My address is:
> > > > > L.D. Gschwind
> > > > > 706 Westview Rd.
> > > > > Bloomfield Hills, MI, 48304
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > DON
> > > > > BJ8 ` Pandora
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > > > > To: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 10:44 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Don
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I got mine at Menard's. If youcan't find them - "Blanket for
> > > > > enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> > > > > let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> > > > > you (if you send me your address) <G>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> > > > > floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> > > > > material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> > > > > the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> > > > > anything like that.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> > > > > kind of a dirt and water trap.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dick
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > > > > > Hi, DickB
> > > > > > > I caught your info on the line the other night, and I'm
> > > > > now at
> > > > > > > the point, almost, of re-installing the tranny tunnel. I'd like to
> > > > > > > take advantage of this blanket, but I can't find one. Can you give
> > > > > me
> > > > > > > any more info, such as a part no., model no., etc., please? I've
> > > > > > > called Char-Broil, and they are "looking" for some thing now. The
> > > > > lady
> > > > > > > asked for a model number, and she went blank when I said "3000
> > > > > Mark
> > > > > > > III, Stage 2". Seriously, though, if you can tell me any more
> > > > > about
> > > > > > > it, it may help. Can't find one near Detroit.
> > > > > > > Also, did you apply this inside the tunnel, or on the
> > > > > outside
> > > > > > > under the carpet? If inside, how did you attacvhg it? Thanks for
> > > > > any
> > > > > > > help you can give me.
> > > > > > > DON
> > > > > > > BJ8 Pandora
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > Get your free email from AltaVista at http://altavista.iname.com
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 12:27:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for Scott
Scott Helms, I don't have your e-mail address and need to communicate.
Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From Steve Kurtz <kurtzs at freenet.carleton.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 20:46:24 -0400
Subject: seeking 3000, Ottawa
Hi folks,
Am interested in hearing about excellent condition car for sale within
reasonable distance. Prefer not to import from US. For driving, not
show, but any alterations should be minimal. Year, color, not critical.
NO SERIOUS RUST.
Please contact Steve
kurtzs@freenet.carleton.ca
From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: cylinder head on Ebay,etc,etc,za......
i hear there's a Texas Cooler for sale on Ebay!!!!!!!!
nibble,nibble,hook,line,sinker..........
have a great Memorial Day!
HoYo
From rsnover at ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 10:05:13 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: Photos of Tri-Carb - 5/26/00
Greetings!
Rick Snover has an album of photos for you to
see using the FREE PhotoPoint photo sharing service.
Here is a message describing the photos:
In the beginning, there were parts...
My new toy: a '62 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" 4-seater (BT7),
some assembly required.
Simply click on the link below to go directly to their photo album
area on the PhotoPoint web site, where you can see all the photos
that they have prepared for you.
Photo Album:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=48550&a=6545415
AOL Users:
Click on the link below to see the photos. If neither of the links
are clickable, simply cut and paste the first link into your web browser.
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=48550&a=6545415";>Click
Here</A>
If you would like to know how to share your own photos using the
free PhotoPoint service, click on this link: http://www.photopoint.com/
-PhotoPoint Automated Attendant
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 11:22:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs Source
Rich We havr these available for all the Healeys. They are not recomended
for cars with plastic lenses since they are so much hotter that the original
bulbs, but I do have several customers that are using them on cars with
plastic lenses and have not had any problems.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 12:09:08 EDT
Subject: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
listeners,
I would appreciate listeners on both lists if they would share experiences
they had racing during the 60s at the SCCA track located at Marlboro
Maryland. I bring this up because often when I have displayed my car at a
show or out for a ride I have run into people that raced at Marlboro and
told fantastic stories. It seemed that many people raced the family's daily
driver.. with some temporary modifications applied in the parking lot of the
track. It was also a location that well to do kids races. As I understand it
Penski stated that "if you could race at Marlboro you could race at any
track". A surprising number of people raced the track. I would guess that
this was because it was located near a major metropolitan area and military
bases?
Jim L.
56 BN2
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 12:32:30 EDT
Subject: British Car Week - Sierra Passes Tour (Rally?)
Hi Healey Enthusiasts,
Members of the Golden Gate/Central Valley Austin Healey Club and I did our
part for British Car Week on Saturday and Sunday of Memorial Day Weekend with
a 600 mile tour (read rally with David Nock in the lead!) over some of the
most torturous and scenic roads and highest passes in California's magestic
Sierra Nevada Mountains. The tour was organized and led by David and Jerri
Nock of British Car Specialists, Stockton and included five Big Healeys, one
Jensen Healey and a super Miata. What a terrific weekend!!!
The tour started Saturday morning in Mateca at the intersection of State
Routes 99 and 120, proceeded east via a series of back roads through the
Central Valley and on up into the Sierra Mountains via the Mormon Emigrant
Trail Rd., only to find the pass closed by snow only a few miles from the Rt.
88 junction. David then detoured us down the North South Rd. (read logging
road!), which was an hour of continuous curves, to the bottom of two river
crossings and back up to Rt. 88. where we lunched at Hams Station. We then
proceeded (several Healeys on fumes before we found gas) via this National
Scenic Byway over Carson Pass (El 8573 ft.) to Rt. 89, south to Rt. 4 ,and
west up over Ebbetts Pass (El 8730 ft) to Bear Valley Lodge for the night and
a great BBQ party.
Sunday morning saw us up "bright eyed and bushy tailed" heading back over
Carson Pass to Rt. 89, south over Monitor Pass (El 8314 ft) and down US 395
over Devils Gate Summit (El 7519 ft), Conway Summit (El 8138 ft) to lunch at
Lee Vining with a nice Harley-Davidson motorcycle group. After a day and a
half wrestling a hot Healey in the hot California sun, with an occasional
dusting from Trifari's suped up AH Hundred's side exhaust, it was hard to
tell who belonged to the Healey Club and who belonged to the Harley Club.
After making sure the guys and gals with the fewer tattoos and least leather
got into the Healeys, we turned west onto Rt. 120 and began the breath taking
climb up to the 10,000 ft. Tioga Pass to enter beautiful Yosemite Park.
You've never seen a group of Healeys perform so strong and sure-footed and
get so many admiring looks! Several stops were made for photo ops of
Yosemite's grandeur, suitably graced by Donald Healey/Gerry Coker's
creations, as we proceeded through the Park. The rally, ops tour, then
continued on Rt. 120 and various back roads to Manteca where good byes and
"thank you Nocks" were extended.
All the Healeys performed without a single mechanical problem!!! And a lot
of motorist, Harley cyclists and Yosemite Park tourists saw a lot of gorgeous
British cars. Can hardly wait for next year's Sierra Passes Tour.
John Soderling
Walnut Creek, CA
57 100-Six Erika the Red
From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 12:39:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
In a message dated 05/29/2000 11:11:12 AM Central Daylight Time,
JXLmail@aol.com writes:
<< I would guess that
this was because it was located near a major metropolitan area and military
bases? >>
Marlboro, Maryland which is next to Washington, DC which should answer all
your "locale" questions, Jim<G>!! Attended MANY races there, got a spirited
tour in some non-descript 'Vette with my Father's Dentist !!<VBG> Scared the
you know what outta me for a lap or two!!
Cheers.........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 14:05:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
Hi Jim,
Just yesterday, I met someone whose father used to take him to the
track to watch the races. He told me that if you look carefully, you
can still find piece of the track and grandstands. Perhaps we should
make a pilgrimage?
By the way, you missed Michael Orrit's great hare & hound rally. The
rain did make it hard to see the markers, but a fine time was had by
all. We had 7-8 Healeys, an MGB, a '65 Corvette Stingray, and a Mazda
MX-7. For those of you in the Washington, DC area, please join us at
out next event in Upperville, Virginia. For information on this and
other Capital Area Austin Healey Club event visit our web site below.
Regards,
Herman
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From sdsabel at attglobal.net
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 20:39:46 +0100
Subject: Healey Specials
I have found the article describing the Blue, Donald Healey version and the
Red, Longbridge versions of the 3000 GT - it appears they are owned by Don
Humphries in the Isle of Wight. i will scan the picture and article if
anyone is interested - I must say they look great, and would be a worthy
conversion even today !
Regards
Simon
Longbridge BN4
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 11:09:46 -0400
Subject: Re:Gauges
I would like to offer the following gauges for sale to the net before
they go on eBay:
1) MGA Fuel Gauge FG 2530/05 Qty 1
2) BJ8 Safety Gauge GD1301/02 Qty 1
3) MG Midget Speedo SN6135/00 Qty 2
4) MG Midget MK1 Tach RN2312/01 Qty 1
4) 100-4 Tach RN2301/00 Qty 1
5) 100-4 Speedo SN6305/00 Qty 1
Also have a pair of decent used 100-4 head lamp rims. My garage is full
of miscellaneous parts (mostly 100-4) including a pair of matching
windscreen stanchion/foot . If you have a particular need contact me off
line. Thanks.
Doug
________________________________________________________________
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
From CarsONline Internet Pty Ltd <webb at carsonline.com.au>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 06:47:33 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Specials
I have received several healey cars for listing in our classifieds section
recently including the following:
Car list members may be interested as the Australian Dollar has fallen
signficantly against the Pound and the USD over the past 3-4 months making
some
of the vehicles being offered by Australian sellors rather cheap when compared
to prices in the UK, Europe and the USA.
1955 AUSTIN HEALEY 100/4
1954 AUSTIN HEALEY BN1 100/4
AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 MK111
1965 Austin Healey BJ8 phase 2 Sebring replica
1967 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 MK111 MULTI CONCOURS WINNER
1961 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 MK11 BT7 3000 MK11 RALLYE REPLICA
1962 AUSTIN HEALEY BT7 3000MK11 ROADSTER
1955 AUSTIN HEALEY BN1 100/4
W Webb
<http://www.carsonlineeurope.com/>http://www.CarsOnlineEurope.com
At 08:39 PM 29/05/00 +0100, you wrote:
>
>I have found the article describing the Blue, Donald Healey version and the
>Red, Longbridge versions of the 3000 GT - it appears they are owned by Don
>Humphries in the Isle of Wight. i will scan the picture and article if
>anyone is interested - I must say they look great, and would be a worthy
>conversion even today !
>
>Regards
>
>Simon
>Longbridge BN4
>
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:39:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
We raced there many times. We started with two sprites the first year and
then we built a formula V which we ran until I entered on active duty in
1968. We ran one of the night races with the sprites. We were usually too
poor to afford a motel and often slept in the grandstand. We met Stirling
Moss there.
I went to the Regrigerator bowl one year. We had the cars apart and I went
with a friend from school late in the evening and arrived about midnight. I
got my first drive in a Jaguar that we toured the track with VERY early in
the morning.
I blew the VW engine coming off the infield into the hairpin. I had a piece
of the casing for many years, but it is lost now. I still have a patch
showing the course layout that I treasure.
I could go on forever about our trips there and the nights at the Marlboro
Hotel and the men's room on the back porch.
Enough!
Bob Humphreys
From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 21:30:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
Jim,
Although I did not personally race at Marlboro, a couple of my vintage
race cars did. I have records of two of mt GSM Delta race cars running at
Marlboro in the early 1960's. One of the right hand drive cars hit the
guardrail in a spectacular accident on the track, while competing in
D-Production.
Dr, Ben Poster was the owner of one of the cars at the time. He was
associated with penske and his Elva Courier race cars. The GSM Delta cars
were similar in size and engine performance and they often compared the
performance while at Marlboro. In one race, they even installed a Lotus twin
cam engine after qualifying just for the heck of it and blew everyone away.
Dr Poster later sold the car to lyle Heck in Pennsylvania, who ran it at
Watkins Glen, and occasionally made it down to Marlboro.
The other GSM Delta that ran at Marlboro was owned by Dr's Gubbins and
Baker of the Detroit area. Although they owned the car, a very rare factory
90-C race car model, they had the car maintained by a professional driver and
had three drivers for different tracks. This car held the D-production track
record at a number of independent club tracks. The car weighed under 1000
pounds and was powered by a 1 liter Ford engine delivering 102 hp - no torque
but plenty of power for speed. This is the car that lost a wheel at Marlboro
and skidded along the guardrail for a spectacular series of pictures for the
next racing program.
Check with the old timers in SCCA at the Capital area and the Pennsylvania
area, and I am sure that you will find a ton of information and first hand
reports.
Best regards,
Gary Lownsdale
From skip saunders <tfs at mitre.org>
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:10:16 -0400
Subject: sills
This is an old topic, it has been discussed at least twice over the past
few years... I've studied every email. But I remain a bit confused.
Most people, when talking about sill repairs mention that they try to
add weight to the car that simulates or replicates the engine/tranny
load on the frame. The part that confuses me is: If the weight is
added prior to mounting the sills, then wouldn't the sills have tension
built into them?... It seems to me that if the engine weight were not on
the frame when the sills were mounted, then the sills (as well as the
frame) would be providing support for the engine/tranny weight. But, if
the sills were welded to the frame when the engine was on the frame,
then only the frame provides engine weight support, and the sills
actually are neutral when the engine is in place.
The discussion seems to emphasize door gap issues. It seems to me that
the right sequence would be:
1. Weld the sills to the outriggers and floor pans.
2. Add the engine/tranny weight to the frame/floorpan/outrigger/sill
weldment.
3. Add the engine/tranny weight to the car.
4. Mount the door to the hinge plate and align the door shut plate.
5. Weld the hinge plate assembly to the sill, and weld the door shut
plate to the sill.
6. Align and weld the rocker panel.
>From most of the discussion, people aren't very clear about what is
involved in mounting the sill. From my current state of car
disassembly/welding progress, it appears to me that there are several
pieces of metal involved in the sill replacement. Not only are there
the front shroud/hinge-plate assemblies, but also are the front wheel
well, the outriggers, floorpans, and a bunch of miscellaneous parts
associated with the shut pillar and rear wheel well. I can certainly
understand why the hinge pillar and shut pillar are critical elements
and need to be welded to the sills when the engine/tranny weight load is
on the car. But I still have difficulty understanding why the sill
would be mounted to the other parts with the engine in place...
Can someone clarify?
I am tempted to mount the sill and floor pans with the car chassis/frame
assembly on its side. That way there'd be no weight loading stress on
the sill/floorpan/outrigger weldment. I'm using a rotisserie which
seems to be a wonderful piece of ingenuity that I extracted from this
list. The rotisserie makes access to everything very easy, and because
it is fairly well balanced, it is easy for me to spin the car to
whatever configuration I like. However, if I'm really misunderstanding
the stresses involved, then I'd like to get un-confused before I go much
further.
Thanks
-Skip-
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 22:13:57 -0400
Subject: Re: sills
>From the posts I've read over the last couple of years, the best solution
seems to be- save as much of the old sills as possible and repair the rest.
My own car comes from eastern Canada(the rust hell of the world) but the
topmost parts of the sills are still good. I'm welding in the cut out
sections. Much easier. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: skip saunders <tfs@mitre.org>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 29, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: sills
>
>This is an old topic, it has been discussed at least twice over the past
>few years... I've studied every email. But I remain a bit confused.
>
>Most people, when talking about sill repairs mention that they try to
>add weight to the car that simulates or replicates the engine/tranny
>load on the frame. The part that confuses me is: If the weight is
>added prior to mounting the sills, then wouldn't the sills have tension
>built into them?... It seems to me that if the engine weight were not on
>the frame when the sills were mounted, then the sills (as well as the
>frame) would be providing support for the engine/tranny weight. But, if
>the sills were welded to the frame when the engine was on the frame,
>then only the frame provides engine weight support, and the sills
>actually are neutral when the engine is in place.
>
>The discussion seems to emphasize door gap issues. It seems to me that
>the right sequence would be:
>
>1. Weld the sills to the outriggers and floor pans.
>2. Add the engine/tranny weight to the frame/floorpan/outrigger/sill
>weldment.
>3. Add the engine/tranny weight to the car.
>4. Mount the door to the hinge plate and align the door shut plate.
>5. Weld the hinge plate assembly to the sill, and weld the door shut
>plate to the sill.
>6. Align and weld the rocker panel.
>
>>From most of the discussion, people aren't very clear about what is
>involved in mounting the sill. From my current state of car
>disassembly/welding progress, it appears to me that there are several
>pieces of metal involved in the sill replacement. Not only are there
>the front shroud/hinge-plate assemblies, but also are the front wheel
>well, the outriggers, floorpans, and a bunch of miscellaneous parts
>associated with the shut pillar and rear wheel well. I can certainly
>understand why the hinge pillar and shut pillar are critical elements
>and need to be welded to the sills when the engine/tranny weight load is
>on the car. But I still have difficulty understanding why the sill
>would be mounted to the other parts with the engine in place...
>
>Can someone clarify?
>
>I am tempted to mount the sill and floor pans with the car chassis/frame
>assembly on its side. That way there'd be no weight loading stress on
>the sill/floorpan/outrigger weldment. I'm using a rotisserie which
>seems to be a wonderful piece of ingenuity that I extracted from this
>list. The rotisserie makes access to everything very easy, and because
>it is fairly well balanced, it is easy for me to spin the car to
>whatever configuration I like. However, if I'm really misunderstanding
>the stresses involved, then I'd like to get un-confused before I go much
>further.
>
>Thanks
>-Skip-
>
>
From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at san.osd.mil>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 07:15:41 -0000
Subject: RE: Healey Specials
Don Humphries - that's the name that was on the tip of my tongue! When I
saw and photographed the cars in the mid-1980s, he was living in the
Midlands. Not sure where he is now, but I believe his Isle of Wight
address was from before he lived in the Midlands.
Cheers,
Reid
-----Original Message-----
From: sdsabel@attglobal.net [SMTP:sdsabel@attglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2000 19:40
To: John Rowe; dickb@cheerful.com
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Healey Specials
I have found the article describing the Blue, Donald Healey version and the
Red, Longbridge versions of the 3000 GT - it appears they are owned by Don
Humphries in the Isle of Wight. i will scan the picture and article if
anyone is interested - I must say they look great, and would be a worthy
conversion even today !
Regards
Simon
Longbridge BN4
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 11:13:44 -0400
Subject: RE: sills
I second that, I always try to maintain as much as the original metal as
possible, but then again I still do body work in lead, go figure!
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Feehan [mailto:feehanr@cadvision.com]
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2000 10:14 PM
To: skip saunders; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: sills
>From the posts I've read over the last couple of years, the best solution
seems to be- save as much of the old sills as possible and repair the rest.
My own car comes from eastern Canada(the rust hell of the world) but the
topmost parts of the sills are still good. I'm welding in the cut out
sections. Much easier. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: skip saunders <tfs@mitre.org>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, May 29, 2000 10:11 PM
Subject: sills
>
>This is an old topic, it has been discussed at least twice over the past
>few years... I've studied every email. But I remain a bit confused.
>
>Most people, when talking about sill repairs mention that they try to
>add weight to the car that simulates or replicates the engine/tranny
>load on the frame. The part that confuses me is: If the weight is
>added prior to mounting the sills, then wouldn't the sills have tension
>built into them?... It seems to me that if the engine weight were not on
>the frame when the sills were mounted, then the sills (as well as the
>frame) would be providing support for the engine/tranny weight. But, if
>the sills were welded to the frame when the engine was on the frame,
>then only the frame provides engine weight support, and the sills
>actually are neutral when the engine is in place.
>
>The discussion seems to emphasize door gap issues. It seems to me that
>the right sequence would be:
>
>1. Weld the sills to the outriggers and floor pans.
>2. Add the engine/tranny weight to the frame/floorpan/outrigger/sill
>weldment.
>3. Add the engine/tranny weight to the car.
>4. Mount the door to the hinge plate and align the door shut plate.
>5. Weld the hinge plate assembly to the sill, and weld the door shut
>plate to the sill.
>6. Align and weld the rocker panel.
>
>>From most of the discussion, people aren't very clear about what is
>involved in mounting the sill. From my current state of car
>disassembly/welding progress, it appears to me that there are several
>pieces of metal involved in the sill replacement. Not only are there
>the front shroud/hinge-plate assemblies, but also are the front wheel
>well, the outriggers, floorpans, and a bunch of miscellaneous parts
>associated with the shut pillar and rear wheel well. I can certainly
>understand why the hinge pillar and shut pillar are critical elements
>and need to be welded to the sills when the engine/tranny weight load is
>on the car. But I still have difficulty understanding why the sill
>would be mounted to the other parts with the engine in place...
>
>Can someone clarify?
>
>I am tempted to mount the sill and floor pans with the car chassis/frame
>assembly on its side. That way there'd be no weight loading stress on
>the sill/floorpan/outrigger weldment. I'm using a rotisserie which
>seems to be a wonderful piece of ingenuity that I extracted from this
>list. The rotisserie makes access to everything very easy, and because
>it is fairly well balanced, it is easy for me to spin the car to
>whatever configuration I like. However, if I'm really misunderstanding
>the stresses involved, then I'd like to get un-confused before I go much
>further.
>
>Thanks
>-Skip-
>
>
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 08:09:32 -0700
Subject: RE: MG Midget parts
You're lucky... I'm still waiting for my money back. I have to say
though that the items I received in the partial shipment were in better
condition than I hoped. I don't know how you found out about him, but I
saw his ad in Hemmings, and contacted him. I think he's good natured,
but maybe disorganized. Good luck-
Martin Johnson
'59 Sprite
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Starke [mailto:bstarke@redshift.bc.ca]
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 4:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: MG Midget parts
Some months ago I let the list know of my unfortunate experience with
JIM
GIORDANO from whom I had ordered parts which were paid for but never
received---well, I am happy to relate that he has now refunded my money,
so
all is well.
BRUCE STARKE
GOLDEN BC
1962 tricarb
1963 BJ7
1962 GAN1 Midget (the wife's)
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 11:18:26 -0400
Subject: Healey crash
Hi all,
does anyone know where I can find documentation, video on the in famous
Healey Mercedes crash of '55
Thanks,
Fred
From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 11:56:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey fastback hardtop
Hey Jim,
I too have been looking for one of these tops for about ten years since
I saw an ad for one in an old March, 64 issue of Cars magazine. The ad is
for Kellison Car Co. Dept. C-3 Highway 99, Lincoln, CA., and says in part:
"Complete line of hard tops, including Corvette, MG, Austin Healy (their
mistake, not mine), Sprite, MG-Midget. Both fast-back styling and button
type. These tops are the finest in the industry and they fit. No waves or
rough spots normally associated with replacement tops." There is a small 3/4
rear view photo of the car with the top installed. The car is either a BJ7
or a Phase 1 BJ8 (like mine). Unfortunately, I do not have the ability to
host the picture of the ad for all to see (stone age computer), but I could
fax it to someone who can.---Peter (BMC Restorations)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jimmysmth@aol.com <Jimmysmth@aol.com>
To: RobertH148@aol.com <RobertH148@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, May 26, 2000 10:54 AM
Subject: Healey fastback hardtop
Bob: I too saw one of these about 15 or more years ago. It was for
sale
with several other Healey parts and a parts car (I stupidly passed up
the
whole deal). The Hardtop was neat. Definitely used the original trunk
lid.
Fit BJ7 I believe. Unlike the Factory Hardtops for BJ7, BJ8, the soft
top
could remain (in down position of course) with the Hardtop in place, but
not
ugly like some other aftermarket hardtops for BJ7-BJ8. Also, I remember
seeing a photo several years ago in some magazine.
Anyone out there have a photo of this?
Jim
From "Davidwpp" <Davidwpp at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 14:08:45 -0500
Subject: Restorations
Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the number of
professional hours and material cost required to fully restore (including
engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going to have done
either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
Thanks in advance for your help.
David W. Peterson
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 15:40:26 -0400
Subject: plugged gas tank line.....
I have a gas tank from a 3000 that's in better shape than the one in my
100-6. I tried to use it but the gas line going to the fuel pump is
plugged.
There's some crap in there that I can't get out. I tried compressed air
and wire and I still can't get it. It's hard to clean because the tube
in bent at a 90 degree angle and I'm not sure what it looks like in the
tank. Any ideas before I have to break the weld and re-do it (which I
don't want to do) I don't know what's in there but it's tough
stuff..... thanks Todd..... maybe a pipe cleaner in a drill??????
1980 limited MGB
1959 100-6 (what a mess)
1996 Audi A4
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 13:34:46 -0700
Subject: Re: plugged gas tank line.....
Call Linda Lovelace??
Sorry, anyway, have you tried applying a little heat and then the wire. Or
maybe heating the wire before putting it in?
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
64 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd S Taylor todd.s.taylor@lmco.com
Sent: Tue, 30 May 2000 15:40:26 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: plugged gas tank line.....
I have a gas tank from a 3000 that's in better shape than the one in my
100-6. I tried to use it but the gas line going to the fuel pump is
plugged.
There's some crap in there that I can't get out. I tried compressed air
and wire and I still can't get it. It's hard to clean because the tube
in bent at a 90 degree angle and I'm not sure what it looks like in the
tank. Any ideas before I have to break the weld and re-do it (which I
don't want to do) I don't know what's in there but it's tough
stuff..... thanks Todd..... maybe a pipe cleaner in a drill??????
1980 limited MGB
1959 100-6 (what a mess)
1996 Audi A4
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "Keith R. Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 16:57:53 -0400
Subject: calling Jim Smith
Sorry to bomb the list.
Jim Smith, send your snail mail address. Have a couple VIR pix for you.
Keith Pennell
From Brian Pearson <bgp at pearsoni.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 22:07:31 +0100
Subject: She runs!
Hello List,
I would like to report that last week I drove my Healey around the
block for the first time in more than 26 years. No windscreen, bonnet,
interior, bumpers or lights, but she did sound sweet. This is the car in
which I learned drive.
Many thanks to the list for help on the ongoing restoration. And Thanks
to Roger Moment for clueing me in about the importance of original
fasteners. I got the new book last week and it has iluminated many grey
areas. I still might need some help on how the headlamp, sidelamp, and
horn wires are secured behind the splash guards :)
I've changed to right hand drive now, and I would like to ask the
other RHD owners about the clutch pedal. Is the alloy foot pad offset
from the lever? I can't get my shoe between the clutch pedal and the
side of the footwell. Hence I can't get to the headlamp dimmer. All
other parts of the conversion went well (even the new oil pressure
line).
Cheers,
Brian Pearson
'61 BT7
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 16:23:53 -0500
Subject: RE: plugged gas tank line.....
Following along the lines of using a grease gun to release frozen pistons in
calipers, how about that approach? You'll have some cleaning up to do
afterwards but that should be pretty easy with kerosene or mineral spirits.
Assuming that it's most likely to be rust, have a radiator shop boil the
tank out. That ought to release whatever gunk has built up in there.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd S Taylor todd.s.taylor@lmco.com
Sent: Tue, 30 May 2000 15:40:26 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: plugged gas tank line.....
I have a gas tank from a 3000 that's in better shape than the one in my
100-6. I tried to use it but the gas line going to the fuel pump is
plugged.
There's some crap in there that I can't get out. I tried compressed air
and wire and I still can't get it. It's hard to clean because the tube
in bent at a 90 degree angle and I'm not sure what it looks like in the
tank. Any ideas before I have to break the weld and re-do it (which I
don't want to do) I don't know what's in there but it's tough
stuff..... thanks Todd..... maybe a pipe cleaner in a drill??????
1980 limited MGB
1959 100-6 (what a mess)
1996 Audi A4
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 17:29:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Restorations
Davidwpp wrote:
> Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the number of
> professional hours and material cost required to fully restore (including
> engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
>
> I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going to have done
> either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> David W. Peterson
Hi David,
This is a conservative estimate that I made up some years ago.
There is a very interesting video called "Project Healey 3000"
Available from www.duke-video.com that gives a finished price of £54,000.00
as the finished price for a MkIII restoration.
Please excuse the corporate plug contained within. We don't do restorations
any more.
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
GENERAL RESTORATION ESTIMATE AUSTIN HEALEY 100 - 3000MKIII
In response to numerous inquiries we have prepared the following general
estimate of the cost of a complete restoration of the Austin Healey models
100 through 3000
MkIII. This estimate is based on a labour rate of $58.00 per hour, a rate we
found necessary in order that we may pay experienced tradesmen sufficient
salary to keep them. The ratio of hourly rate to direct labour cost is
comparable to that of most automotive repair shops and covers such things as:
common fasteners, lubricants other than oil, heat, cleaning equipment and
supplies, workers compensation, unemployment insurance, Ontario Health Tax,
electricity, welding equipment gasses and supplies, coveralls, workshop
equipment, office salaries and supplies, snowplowing, garbage disposal, bank
loan interest, etc., etc., etc., in short all the usual expenses of a
business of this type.
We are assuming for the purposes of this restoration that the car we are
restoring is typical of a tired Healey, that the owner does none of the work
him or herself and that
everything that usually needs to be done to restore one of these cars needs
to be done to this car. We are also assuming that the car has not been
vandalized or previously repaired poorly.
The work includes completely disassembling the vehicle and restoring it
as near as is practicability possible to original condition.
One important point should be remembered with respect to a restoration of
this type. The cost of this work is in no way related to the ultimate value
of the finished product. So this type of exercise should not be embarked upon
when the ultimate goal is to have a car that you could sell for a profit. The
great benefit of having a car correctly restored by Precision Sportscar
Servicing is that you end up with a reliable beautiful example of the marque
which when properly maintained will provide years of pleasurable motoring.
ESTIMATED COST OF RESTORATION
Road test car, if possible , compression check engine check
hot oil pressure, test clutch, gearbox and overdrive check
for oil leaks.
2.5 hrs
Remove doors, fenders, windshield, bootlid, bonnet, grille,
lights, top frame, sill trim, bumpers, fuel tank, exhaust
system, wheels, engine and gearbox, rear springs and axle,
front suspension units, steering box and idler, electrical
harness, bulkhead components, heater, vent systems,
dashboard, seats and runners, interior trim, heat shields,
battery, master switch, battery cables, fuel lines, brake and
clutch master cylinders, brake and clutch lines, fuel pump,
boot lining, bonnet latch, top and frame, top gutter, door
strikers and door shut alloy trim. Strip doors, disassemble
windshield, differential, and rear brakes.
Labour 40.00 hrs
Sandblast frame, differential housing and paint strip all body panels.
Sub contract $1390.00
Repair frame and inner body panels including replace inner
sills and outriggers as required, fit new floors and boot
floor, replace door shut posts and backing panels, repair or
replace spring boxes, front frame extensions, footwells,
check for cracks and weld if required engine and suspension
mounts, repair front cross member hinge posts, hang panels to
check fit, repair as required rear floor sections, wheel
arches, battery compartment door, rear shroud rail, front
inner fenders, fit new outer sills.
Labour 130.00hrs
Parts $850.00
Caulk and paint inner body Materials $ 75.00
Sub contract $850.00
Clean engine and gearbox, replace external gaskets, front
seal, remove and overhaul carbs, remove overdrive and
gearbox from engine, check clutch for wear, clean overdrive
filter, drain oil, change oil filter, refit gearbox to
engine, repaint engine and gearbox assy, clean manifolds,
replace flange studs, replace carb heat shields, test clean
and repaint radiator.
Parts $200.00
Labour 16.00hrs
Paint rear axle, clean drums, overhaul wheel cylinders, and
adjusters, fit new hub and pinion seals, and brake shoes,
clean drive shaft, check U joints, disassemble springs, clean
leaves and replace bushes, paint and reassemble springs,
service spring shackles, overhaul handbrake compensator.
Parts $ 45.00
Labour 8.00hrs
Install new heatshields, wiring harness, fuel lines and brake
lines, overhaul and fit brake and clutch master cylinders,
clutch slave cylinder, replace clutch hose, install rear axle
and springs, clean and paint front and rear shocks and
install, replace all brake flex hoses, clean and install main
and short battery cables, fit master switch, fit new battery
clamps, hold down, tray and cover.
Parts $525.00
Labour 27.00hrs
Clean and install handbrake lever and cable fuel pump,
steering box and idler, center and side rods, fluid reservoir
and pipes, fuse box, overdrive switches, regulator, overdrive
harness, dip switch and harness, throttle relay, pedal box,
heater and vent systems, bonnet release and catch, clean test
paint and install fuel tank, clean paint and install tank
straps, overhaul and fit seat runners, brake servo (if
fitted), engine mounts, check paint and install starter and
generator, clean and service distributor.
Parts $215.00
Labour 34.00hrs
Overhaul front calipers, kingpins and wheel bearings, bead
blast and paint springs, anti roll bar, back plates and other
front suspension components, install front suspension,
install engine and gearbox assy, install radiator and hoses
fit throttle and choke controls, fit distributor and carbs,
fit driveshaft.
Parts $238.00
Labour 30.00hrs
Repair four fenders, two doors, boot lid, front and rear
shrouds, paint insides of panels and fit shrouds to inner
body, hang and align doors, caulk and hang fenders, and check
fit, loosen for paint, fit bonnet.
Labour 130.00hrs
Prep and paint outer body (dark colours extra)
Sub contract $5500.00
Fit grille, straighten clean and repaint bumper irons, fit
bumpers, fit new fender beadings, fit boot hinges, cable stay
and latch, adjust bonnet and fit stay, fit fender spears,
cockpit surrounds, dashboard, and wire up (instruments not
overhauled), fit bonnet grille door shut trim, door strikers,
windshield (with new seal), assemble doors, fit side windows
(convertible only), fit wipers, washers, emblems, scuttle
seals. On MkIII cars add $250.00 extra for refinishing
dashboard.
Parts $498.00
Labour 45.00hrs
Subcontract $1500.00 (chrome)
Replace complete interior including carpets, seat covers and
cushions, side panels, supply and fit new top, retrim crash
pad, supply and fit new trunk lining, and all interior
weather strippings etc.
Labour 140.00hrs
Parts $1600.00
Fit and wire lights, fit new wheels and tyres, service and
trouble shooting.
Labour 30.00hrs
Parts $1800.00
TOTALS
Labour 632.5 hrs @ $58.00/hr
Subcontract $9,240.00
--
Regards,
From michael adams <maxxadams at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 14:31:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Shrouded in Secrecy
On Thu, 25 May 2000 21:03:53 -0400, skip saunders wrote:
> Mine goes under also...
Michael
59 100-6
> mine too goes under...
> -Skip-
>
>
> Steve Byers wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Adnan --
> > My shroud lip goes UNDER the frame extensions, with the fasteners nuts
on
> > the bottom. I am pretty sure my shroud has never been removed.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > Havelock, NC
> > HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
> > "It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
> > than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> > To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 5:36 PM
> > Subject: Shrouded in Secrecy
> >
> > >
> > >As usual, there seem to be two apparent ways of doing something
Healey:
> > >
> > >Does the front shroud (BJ8) attach to the two frame extensions from
below
> > or
> > >does the shroud lip lie on top of the frame extensions?
> > >
> > >If the shroud is on top, you get the most room to locate the edge of
the
> > >shroud but cosmetically it does not seem optimal.
> > >
> > >??
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Adnan
>
_______________________________________________________
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 17:51:31 EDT
Subject: Re: plugged gas tank line.....
In a message dated 05/30/2000 3:49:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
todd.s.taylor@lmco.com writes:
<< I don't know what's in there but it's tough
stuff..... thanks Todd..... maybe a pipe cleaner in a drill? >>
Hmmm... Just an idea, but maybe if you got one of those test tube cleaners
like you had in your chemistry set, or lab, and put that on the end of a
drill, that might do the trick. I have seen similar things in varying sizes
at hobby shops and speed shops. They even have really big ones for honing
your cyllinder walls.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8 (now back together and running!)
Fuquay-Varina, NC
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 17:55:52 EDT
Subject: Re: plugged gas tank line.....
In a message dated 5/30/00 3:55:21 PM Central Daylight Time, ryan@jimryan.com
writes:
<< Sorry, anyway, have you tried applying a little heat and then the wire.
Or maybe heating the wire before putting it in? >>
No torches near the tank please!
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 19:38:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey crash
Fred
A 3 page article ran in the June 27, 1955 issue of Life magazine. Only a few
paragraphs of explanation with the rest of the pages filled with photographs.
Although the Healey was mentioned, there were no photographs of it.
One of the listers (Wilko) used to have a copy of the article on his web
page, but it doesn't appear to be accessible anymore.
Alan Garrison
BN6
From RandallC2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 21:05:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey crash
Try this:
http://members.aol.com/healeypics/lemans.html
Randy Hicks
100M
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 22:42:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Experiences racing at Marlboro Maryland in the 60s
listeners,
I live 20 minutes away from Route 4 and 301. I'll take my camera and
photograph as much as possible. I'll use the track layout from the HTML page
(http://www.na-motorsports.com/Tracks/Marlboro) as mentioned in a previous
contribution. I'll see if we can post the pictures on the Capital Area Austin
Healey WEB site.
Jim Latoff
56 BN2
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 22:53:21 EDT
Subject: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I recently purchased for
painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review is: Awesome! The air
deliver seams just right, and was nice and cool, I never seemed to be starved
for air, and the excess air exiting through the one way exhaust vent was kind
of a comforting reminder that it was working. I purchased the full face
mask, which is very well made, very heavy duty and of a professional quality.
I also purchased replacable face shields which seems like a good idea. All
in all, I'm impressed, and quite frankly, I feel foolish for painting with
such nasty stuff with only a respirator ( a pretty nice one!) in the past.
These are available from many sources, and would highly recommend you protect
your bodies with such a similar system if you paint.
No financial interest, yada, yada, just thought some of you might like to
know!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 23:22:21 EDT
Subject: Healey (toy) on TV
I usually think it's "neato" to see Healeys in movies or TV shows (i've got a
couple on my website)and like to post the sitings to the list.
Here's a sighting that may go unnoticed by most folks.
There is a "Best Buy" commercial in which the characters are seated at a
television watching a DVD of an Austin Powers movie (only sound from the film
is heard, no visuals). One of the characters comes into the room with a
carton of milk and sits down. as he laughs the milk sprays from his nose.
On the shelf/mantle in the background, a Barbie Austin Healey can clearly be
seen.
Just thought I'd share...
Rick
San Diego
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 22:00:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey (toy) on TV
Must be where some of the listers get their simpy feminine names for the
Handsome Brute. Ray fixitanddriveitFeehan.
-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com <WilKo@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 11:25 PM
Subject: Healey (toy) on TV
>
>I usually think it's "neato" to see Healeys in movies or TV shows (i've got
a
>couple on my website)and like to post the sitings to the list.
>
>Here's a sighting that may go unnoticed by most folks.
>
>There is a "Best Buy" commercial in which the characters are seated at a
>television watching a DVD of an Austin Powers movie (only sound from the
film
>is heard, no visuals). One of the characters comes into the room with a
>carton of milk and sits down. as he laughs the milk sprays from his nose.
>
>On the shelf/mantle in the background, a Barbie Austin Healey can clearly
be
>seen.
>
>Just thought I'd share...
>
>Rick
>San Diego
>
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 23:56:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey crash (on web)
I checked the links at my site, and the Lemans pages work ok.
"http://members.aol.com/wilko"; will get you the home page. The article is
under Healeys appearances in various media: Magazines
There is a version with no pictures (being that the pictures are gruesome)
I just fixed the return links on those pages to return to wilko (not the
hometown AOL thing, which doesn't work)
Rick
San Diego
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 00:29:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Restorations
David, There are many variances in restoring a car that can change the cost
of a restoration. But if you are to have a shop restore your Healey assuming
that it is a decent solid car with minimal rust. If you were to have them go
thru the car from top to bottom and make it as new as possible, including all
mechanicals, electrical, interior, paint and chrome work it should run
between $50,000.00 and $60,000.00.
This would include parts, labor, sublet and body work. A restoration of this
caliber would take approximately 12 to 18 months. I would recommend that you
select a shop that has done this before because they will know what to look
for and what to expect when they dig in. Most shops will take on a project
like this and get buried and overwhelmed by the size of the project and then
stick it in a corner and forget about it until they are slow. We have all
heard the horror stories about al the cars that have been in shops for many
years, parts lost and so on. So I would strongly recommend that you look arou
nd and find a shop that you can work with and has done a Healey before.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersv.edu>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 00:12:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Restorations
Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the number of
professional hours and material cost required to fully restore
(including engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going to have
done either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
IMHO you need to slow down the acquisition phase and accelerate the learning
phase. A "professional" restoration on a BIG Healey can cost from 30K US to
whatever you want to meet concours standards for a particular car, depending
on the condition of the car and how much work you are capable/willing to do.
This can easily reach 35K for an average car and the moon for something like
an original 100-S.
It is unlikely in the extreme that in the current market you will make money
doing this.
The Sprites will be cheaper to purchase, but not less expensive to restore,
as a percentage of investment. I'd predict it to be higher, if anything
because labor hours remain constant and the Sprite has its own normal
horrors. There is a very good article in the British Car Magazine about
what to look for. I recommend it highly.
Bill Moyer, whose wife wants a Frogeye, to his dismay
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 05:23:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Restorations/bugeye....
Hey Bill Got to tell you a quick Story.... I owned the 100 for Ten plus
Years and my wife decides she has to have a Bugeye.... I considered the
Hundred to be the Perfect Healey... Took Three Weeks of that Damn Bugeye
being here and I fell in love with it.... Then I got my Son a Box Sprite....
now here is a forgetable Healey Right? Well my Love affair for the Hundred
got another Nick... the Box was the best yet.....
Then I bought a 3000 .... Opps....Not Good.... it's the Cats Butt....(sold
that to Jim Sailer Two years ago to finance the Bonneville Racing)
My Point is that Every Healey I have owned has been the Best Yet.... Each
and everyone of them has thier own flavor and traits that I love....
When it comes to Driving Smiles... the Hundred has been here the Longest...
and on the End of the Day it will always be the Prettiest.... but the others
have some wonderful traits....
Thought I would share that...
Keith Turk ( 100, bugeye, too many Boxes... and that Damn Salt Flats Camaro
... which oughta be a Healey)
----- Original Message -----
From: William Moyer <William.Moyer@millersv.edu>
To: 'Davidwpp ' <Davidwpp@email.msn.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 11:12 PM
Subject: RE: Restorations
>
>
> Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the number of
> professional hours and material cost required to fully restore
> (including engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
>
> I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going to have
> done either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
>
>
> IMHO you need to slow down the acquisition phase and accelerate the
learning
> phase. A "professional" restoration on a BIG Healey can cost from 30K US
to
> whatever you want to meet concours standards for a particular car,
depending
> on the condition of the car and how much work you are capable/willing to
do.
> This can easily reach 35K for an average car and the moon for something
like
> an original 100-S.
>
> It is unlikely in the extreme that in the current market you will make
money
> doing this.
>
> The Sprites will be cheaper to purchase, but not less expensive to
restore,
> as a percentage of investment. I'd predict it to be higher, if anything
> because labor hours remain constant and the Sprite has its own normal
> horrors. There is a very good article in the British Car Magazine about
> what to look for. I recommend it highly.
>
> Bill Moyer, whose wife wants a Frogeye, to his dismay
>
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 05:37:13 -0500
Subject: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
Hey Guys Thought I would give you a quick update on the year so far... We
have run twice up in North Carolina... and the last Meet we had the Pleasure
of letting a Writer for Hot Rod Magazine Drive the Car.... Will Hanzel ran
183.673 mph on the one Mile course up there....and is writing an article for
future Publication on our Organization,,, He also Took all the photos and
wrote an article about my Car.... should be in the issue that comes out in
Sept.
We are Taking the car to Muroc Dry Lake in California the 23-24 of June....
It's a Long Tow out there but the Record for the C Fuel Altered Class is
171mph and we can Run Nitrous Oxide..add to that the Track is 1.5 miles
long.. So we are bolting on the system here in the next couple days and
putting it on the Dyno Friday.... Then a quick Test up in North Carolina on
the Tenth.... and Away we go.... Hoping to run 200 out there in La....
Oh and I am bringing the Fiberglass Buck for the Bugeye's front end home
from out there.... should be a fun trip..
Then of course in August I am going back to Bonneville with the car...
Keith Turk ( no I ain't quite Lost it Yet.... but I can't remember where I
put it either!)
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 15:11:40 +0100
Subject: UK 100 Register & Healey Millenium Weekend 16-18 June 2000
To all interested Austin-Healey 100 Owners.
At least twice a year we run a summary of the 100s that we have recorded
in our UK 100 Register Database. We cannot give out details about
individual cars without the owners permission but never the less we get
a great deal of interest in the overall numbers and selected breakdowns
of information.
We shall be producing our next summary in time for or Millenium Weekend
to be held at Beaulieu on the 16th to 18th June. If any owner is
interested in sending us details of their 100 and has not already done
so then please access our WEB site at
http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
All entries will be gratefully received but sorry may not be
individually acknowledged. However may I thank those who have sent in
entries over the last six months or so. On average we have been
receiving a little over one a week recently.
Best regards to all
--
John Harper
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:47:18 -0500
Subject: Jim Cox
Jim:
Sorry to bomb the list. Jim Cox, I have misplaced your address to send you
your part. Please contact me off-line. Thanks. rjh
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:29:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Restorations
I have restored to concours an EType and Bugeye and now doing an
MGA. I do all the labor except heavy rust repairs and paint. I
subcontract very little else. It's still a ballbreaker to come out
ahead of the market, even when counting your own labor at (1000
hrs x $0.00 per hour) and not counting the cases and cases of
vodka & cokes.
The big variable is what kind of project you buy for how much.
These are the things that will bring you down quicker than the MIR
station -
RUST, HIDDEN RUST AND MORE RUST THAN EXPECTED (where there's rust
there's always more rust)
MISSING PIECES THAT TURN OUT VERY HARD TO FIND (tools, certain
chrome bits, hardtops etc)
GEARBOX PARTS (in many cases a bad box is best supplanted by
purchasing another one)
HYDRAULIC SLEEVING (a sure bet with a car that has been sitting -
up to 11 sleeves worst case)
A REAL DOG ENGINE (oversizes/undersizes maxed out, or massive DPO
damage)
PAYING A RESTORER TO DEVELOP A LEARNING CURVE ON YOUR CAR
PAYING A RESTORER TO HUNT DOWN "BEST VALUE" PARTS OR SUBSTITUTIONS
(even I give up and sometimes don't sweat the small stuff, or
choose to pay much more for convenience packages)
RESTORER/OWNER TRUST RELATIONSHIP DISINTEGRATES (tens of thousands
at stake here)
CONCOURS or PERFECTION ADDICTION SETS IN (for what godly reason,
when a beloved collector-mobile is completely apart would u start
getting chintzy? Where would u pull back? - brakes and steering?
how about a slightly off paint job?)
Here's my 2 northern pesos:
Research before committing - check parts availability and review
catalogue prices - peg the weaknesses and potential troubles
zones - get references from owners on restorers - remember some
owners are DCO's.
Start a phantom budget on a phantom car - no better way to
familiarize yourself and nail down the value to you of any
particular project car.
Get matching numbers - it always helps the end game.
Avoid heavy rust unless you are prepared to marry your MIG welder
for two years. If you don't believe in polygamy I dare u to ask a
restorer what his sub-budget would be just to replace the bad
metal on a rust bucket.
Consider deferrable items - not pretty rad, interior kits, new
soft top, tools, better wheels, and maybe just maybe that good
running drive train can be detailed only, stuffed in and
overhauled a few or many years later. Pulling an engine is not the
end of the world, but chasing mechanical nigglies that never go
away does get tiresome. I deferred one engine which ran and still
is running fine, but first this seal leaks then that gasket. For
all the fixes and little bit of annoying cold clutch chatter maybe
I shoulda done it up - who knows? It's on the road. Saved a whole
grand -whoopee!
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: William Moyer <William.Moyer@millersv.edu>
To: 'Davidwpp ' <Davidwpp@email.msn.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: May 31, 2000 12:12 AM
Subject: RE: Restorations
>
>
> Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the
number of
> professional hours and material cost required to fully
restore
> (including engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
>
> I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going
to have
> done either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
>
>
> IMHO you need to slow down the acquisition phase and accelerate
the learning
> phase. A "professional" restoration on a BIG Healey can cost
from 30K US to
> whatever you want to meet concours standards for a particular
car, depending
> on the condition of the car and how much work you are
capable/willing to do.
> This can easily reach 35K for an average car and the moon for
something like
> an original 100-S.
>
> It is unlikely in the extreme that in the current market you
will make money
> doing this.
>
> The Sprites will be cheaper to purchase, but not less expensive
to restore,
> as a percentage of investment. I'd predict it to be higher, if
anything
> because labor hours remain constant and the Sprite has its own
normal
> horrors. There is a very good article in the British Car
Magazine about
> what to look for. I recommend it highly.
>
> Bill Moyer, whose wife wants a Frogeye, to his dismay
>
From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:38:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
I had the pleasure of going to southern Alabama a few weeks ago
and meeting the Turk in the flesh. A real piece of work, but u
should see the CAR. You should hear the CAR. Absolutely, no impact
from loud rock music after that.
Best of all, parts of that country haven't changed much from when
I biked thru there in 1970. Actually, very refreshing.....
Everything above is meant to be taken as a positive compliment.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: May 31, 2000 6:37 AM
Subject: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
>
> Hey Guys Thought I would give you a quick update on the year so
far... We
> have run twice up in North Carolina... and the last Meet we had
the Pleasure
> of letting a Writer for Hot Rod Magazine Drive the Car.... Will
Hanzel ran
> 183.673 mph on the one Mile course up there....and is writing an
article for
> future Publication on our Organization,,, He also Took all the
photos and
> wrote an article about my Car.... should be in the issue that
comes out in
> Sept.
>
> We are Taking the car to Muroc Dry Lake in California the 23-24
of June....
> It's a Long Tow out there but the Record for the C Fuel Altered
Class is
> 171mph and we can Run Nitrous Oxide..add to that the Track is
1.5 miles
> long.. So we are bolting on the system here in the next couple
days and
> putting it on the Dyno Friday.... Then a quick Test up in North
Carolina on
> the Tenth.... and Away we go.... Hoping to run 200 out there in
La....
>
> Oh and I am bringing the Fiberglass Buck for the Bugeye's front
end home
> from out there.... should be a fun trip..
>
> Then of course in August I am going back to Bonneville with the
car...
>
> Keith Turk ( no I ain't quite Lost it Yet.... but I can't
remember where I
> put it either!)
>
>
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:35:43 -0400
Subject: RE: Restorations
no truer words have been spoken...
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:30 AM
To: William Moyer
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: Restorations
I have restored to concours an EType and Bugeye and now doing an
MGA. I do all the labor except heavy rust repairs and paint. I
subcontract very little else. It's still a ballbreaker to come out
ahead of the market, even when counting your own labor at (1000
hrs x $0.00 per hour) and not counting the cases and cases of
vodka & cokes.
The big variable is what kind of project you buy for how much.
These are the things that will bring you down quicker than the MIR
station -
RUST, HIDDEN RUST AND MORE RUST THAN EXPECTED (where there's rust
there's always more rust)
MISSING PIECES THAT TURN OUT VERY HARD TO FIND (tools, certain
chrome bits, hardtops etc)
GEARBOX PARTS (in many cases a bad box is best supplanted by
purchasing another one)
HYDRAULIC SLEEVING (a sure bet with a car that has been sitting -
up to 11 sleeves worst case)
A REAL DOG ENGINE (oversizes/undersizes maxed out, or massive DPO
damage)
PAYING A RESTORER TO DEVELOP A LEARNING CURVE ON YOUR CAR
PAYING A RESTORER TO HUNT DOWN "BEST VALUE" PARTS OR SUBSTITUTIONS
(even I give up and sometimes don't sweat the small stuff, or
choose to pay much more for convenience packages)
RESTORER/OWNER TRUST RELATIONSHIP DISINTEGRATES (tens of thousands
at stake here)
CONCOURS or PERFECTION ADDICTION SETS IN (for what godly reason,
when a beloved collector-mobile is completely apart would u start
getting chintzy? Where would u pull back? - brakes and steering?
how about a slightly off paint job?)
Here's my 2 northern pesos:
Research before committing - check parts availability and review
catalogue prices - peg the weaknesses and potential troubles
zones - get references from owners on restorers - remember some
owners are DCO's.
Start a phantom budget on a phantom car - no better way to
familiarize yourself and nail down the value to you of any
particular project car.
Get matching numbers - it always helps the end game.
Avoid heavy rust unless you are prepared to marry your MIG welder
for two years. If you don't believe in polygamy I dare u to ask a
restorer what his sub-budget would be just to replace the bad
metal on a rust bucket.
Consider deferrable items - not pretty rad, interior kits, new
soft top, tools, better wheels, and maybe just maybe that good
running drive train can be detailed only, stuffed in and
overhauled a few or many years later. Pulling an engine is not the
end of the world, but chasing mechanical nigglies that never go
away does get tiresome. I deferred one engine which ran and still
is running fine, but first this seal leaks then that gasket. For
all the fixes and little bit of annoying cold clutch chatter maybe
I shoulda done it up - who knows? It's on the road. Saved a whole
grand -whoopee!
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: William Moyer <William.Moyer@millersv.edu>
To: 'Davidwpp ' <Davidwpp@email.msn.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: May 31, 2000 12:12 AM
Subject: RE: Restorations
>
>
> Can anyone give me an informed estimate (a range) as to the
number of
> professional hours and material cost required to fully
restore
> (including engine and trans) a BJ7/8? A Sprite?
>
> I have had a BJ7 unsatisfactorily restored. I am next going
to have
> done either a BJ7 or 8 and/or a Sprite.
>
>
> IMHO you need to slow down the acquisition phase and accelerate
the learning
> phase. A "professional" restoration on a BIG Healey can cost
from 30K US to
> whatever you want to meet concours standards for a particular
car, depending
> on the condition of the car and how much work you are
capable/willing to do.
> This can easily reach 35K for an average car and the moon for
something like
> an original 100-S.
>
> It is unlikely in the extreme that in the current market you
will make money
> doing this.
>
> The Sprites will be cheaper to purchase, but not less expensive
to restore,
> as a percentage of investment. I'd predict it to be higher, if
anything
> because labor hours remain constant and the Sprite has its own
normal
> horrors. There is a very good article in the British Car
Magazine about
> what to look for. I recommend it highly.
>
> Bill Moyer, whose wife wants a Frogeye, to his dismay
>
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 22:44:59 -0400
Subject: cleaning solution
I have found a fantastic way of cleaning all your fastners , small chrome
bits and even helps plastic washer bottles look almost new. PPG makes a
product DX 533 aluminum cleaner ( not the etch). Use full strength in a
glass or plastic container. Drop all your chrome posi drive screws or top
latches nuts bolts in for about1-5 min. USE latex type gloves brush off any
remaining crud with toothbrush and clean well with water. rub dry with
cotton towel. It saves time of polishing and cleaning gunk out of crevises.
this stuff works wonders for super cleaning small parts. this is a mild acid
so take proper precautions.will not harm orig. paint on washer bottles (blue
tudor) Have fun .
Carroll Phillips
From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:28:26 -0700
Subject: Re: plugged gas tank line.....
Sorry, I was making the assumption, because welding was mentioned, the tank had
been cleaned.
Sincerely,
Jim Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
Sent: Tue, 30 May 2000 17:55:52 EDT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: plugged gas tank line.....
In a message dated 5/30/00 3:55:21 PM Central Daylight Time, ryan@jimryan.com
writes:
<< Sorry, anyway, have you tried applying a little heat and then the wire.
Or maybe heating the wire before putting it in? >>
No torches near the tank please!
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.
From "STEPHEN JOWETT" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:49:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Restorations
David
In my experience a BJ8 full restoration takes between 1200 and 1500
hours, depending on the original condition of the project car. This is to a
high standard, not necessarily concours. Parts and materials could be £10K
to £15K depending on spec. and how bad it was.
I would be interested in other restorers views?
Sprites, I couldn't say!
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
http://www.ukhealey.co.uk/austin.healey/
From "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner at magnet.at>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:43:48 +0200
Subject: Windscreen-pin
As no one answered my previous mail I try again:
> Additionally I would need some information about my windscreen. When I got
> the "Pin-screen pillar locating" from AH-Spares and tried to exchange them
I
> noticed that the old ones had different length but I got only one size
from
> AH-Spares. Should they be of different size or was this only another error
> of the PO?
>
> Reinhart Rosner
>
> 55 100-4 BN 1
>
>
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:28:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: LeMans 1955
Good Afternoon All;
On May 30th Fred Scheuble asked about documentation and video on the
LeMans crash of 1955. Some time ago I read a book titled "Death Racer"
by Mark Kahn which reviewed the circumstances surrounding the crash.
As I recall, the French government conducted extensive hearings at the
time and considerable original and primary documentation may be
available from that source.
In addition, several shows have been on the TV station "Speedvision".
These shows contained film footage about the race and the accident.
1. Gentleman's Motor Racing Diary-film by the late John Tate
2. History of Speed-Triumph film of the 1955 LeMans
3. Legends of Motorsport-Racing in '50's
All these films are available from various film/video suppliers.
Once your research is finished, I'm sure many of us on the list would
be interested in your findings.
Scott Morris '62 Tricarb
Rembember, Murphy Lives so Keep Smiling
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
From "Scheuble, Fred J., HiServ/NA" <fjscheuble at hiserv-na.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:36:31 -0400
Subject: RE: LeMans 1955
thanks for the info and I will post what I find
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 2:29 PM
To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: LeMans 1955
Good Afternoon All;
On May 30th Fred Scheuble asked about documentation and video on the
LeMans crash of 1955. Some time ago I read a book titled "Death Racer"
by Mark Kahn which reviewed the circumstances surrounding the crash.
As I recall, the French government conducted extensive hearings at the
time and considerable original and primary documentation may be
available from that source.
In addition, several shows have been on the TV station "Speedvision".
These shows contained film footage about the race and the accident.
1. Gentleman's Motor Racing Diary-film by the late John Tate
2. History of Speed-Triumph film of the 1955 LeMans
3. Legends of Motorsport-Racing in '50's
All these films are available from various film/video suppliers.
Once your research is finished, I'm sure many of us on the list would
be interested in your findings.
Scott Morris '62 Tricarb
Rembember, Murphy Lives so Keep Smiling
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
From "Jan Bijl" <jan at image-plus-digital.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 20:39:32 +0200
Subject: sills
Skip
I do agree with you to lift out the engine/trany first, also
I think it would be wise to do one side at the time and to check your door-
gaps before cutting anything away. By doing it this way the sills have also
a function in limiting the flex in your chassis. If you would keep your
engine/tranny in
during the whole operation, they would have not a function in reducing the
flex in the
chassis. When you hear people complaining that their door don't shut
properly, it
is caused by rotten sills who have lost their support function, to give
this support
function back you have to do the initial welding without the weight of the
engine/tranny,
add it and continue with the points 4,5 and 6. At least this is the way I
want to handle
the whole operation of changing sills, floorpanels and outriggers.
I am not sure if you should do this whole operation with a rotisserie, I
would prefer to
support the car on 4 jackstands directly below the axle lines in order to
maintain the
same flex. I don't know if you can get the same result with a rotisserie.
Jan Bijl
BJ7
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 15:29:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey crash
In a message dated 5/30/2000 8:44:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com writes:
<< Hi all,
does anyone know where I can find documentation, video on the in famous
Healey Mercedes crash of '55
>>
Fred, There is a video tape that I rented a few years ago (early 80s) called "
CAR WARS' that features all kinds of gruesome accidents of cars and
motorcycles. This film contains actual footage of this accident. The
footage is not long, but using pause and rewind you can see the Healey as it
happens.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:53:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Char-Broil Smolker Blanket
> > Don
> >
> > I got mine at Menard's. If you can't find them - "Blanket for
> enclosing a Smoker" - email me and I'll go over and buy you two. I'll
> let you know how much and you can send me a check and I'll PP them to
> you (if you send me your address) <G>
> >
> > I took out the seats and the carpet and "upholstered" the entire
> floor and the tranny tunnel - on the passenger compartment side. The
> material is heavy foil and molds to fit. I used a little duct tape on
> the edges and to keep the joints together but I didn't glue it down or
> anything like that.
> >
> > I think doing the underside of the trans tunnel is overkill and is a
> kind of a dirt and water trap.
> >
> > Dick
> >
>
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 17:29:19 -0400
Subject: restoration hours
Steve,
I think you are right on the money with your figures of 1200 -
1500 hours of labor and $17,000 to $25,000 in parts for a Big
Healey restoration. This is what a well set up shop with the right
tools, resources, and knowledge would estimate. One of the
reasons for these numbers being so high is the poor quality of
so many reproduction parts. It's not bad enough that the cost of
the parts is so extreme; extra time is required to make them fit.
For an amateur working in an under-equipped home garage the
time figure can be multiplied by 2 or 3 (or more).
Doug Reid
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 18:13:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey fastback hardtop
Jim,
Universal Laminations in England made a saloon conversion for the 100.
There's a ad from The Autocar in the SOL healey site:
(http://www.team.net/www/healey/autobila/images/salon.jpg)
Jimmysmth@aol.com wrote:
>
> Bob: I too saw one of these about 15 or more years ago. It was for sale
> with several other Healey parts and a parts car (I stupidly passed up the
> whole deal). The Hardtop was neat. Definitely used the original trunk lid.
> Fit BJ7 I believe. Unlike the Factory Hardtops for BJ7, BJ8, the soft top
> could remain (in down position of course) with the Hardtop in place, but not
> ugly like some other aftermarket hardtops for BJ7-BJ8. Also, I remember
> seeing a photo several years ago in some magazine.
> Anyone out there have a photo of this?
>
> Jim
--
Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 09:25:50 +1000
Subject: RE: LeMans 1955
>From what I remember as a small child listening to grown up talk at the
dinner table some years after the event. The French press and the public
were blaming the Healey for the accident, The Healey team had to make a very
hasty retreat back to the UK in fear of being mobbed. It was eventually
proved by the inquest that the Healey car was not to blame. But it was a
very harrowing time for all.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris
Sent: 01-Jun-2000 4:29
To: fjscheuble@hiserv-na.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: LeMans 1955
Good Afternoon All;
On May 30th Fred Scheuble asked about documentation and video on the
LeMans crash of 1955. Some time ago I read a book titled "Death Racer"
by Mark Kahn which reviewed the circumstances surrounding the crash.
As I recall, the French government conducted extensive hearings at the
time and considerable original and primary documentation may be
available from that source.
In addition, several shows have been on the TV station "Speedvision".
These shows contained film footage about the race and the accident.
1. Gentleman's Motor Racing Diary-film by the late John Tate
2. History of Speed-Triumph film of the 1955 LeMans
3. Legends of Motorsport-Racing in '50's
All these films are available from various film/video suppliers.
Once your research is finished, I'm sure many of us on the list would
be interested in your findings.
Scott Morris '62 Tricarb
Rembember, Murphy Lives so Keep Smiling
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
__________________________________________________
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:55:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
I can second Mike's comments. I had the pleasure both of watching Keith run
the Camaro at Maxton a year or so ago, and then visiting him at his business
and then at his home in south Alabama a little later. I'm still impressed
with that garage of his!
Good luck at Muroc, Keith.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
>
>I had the pleasure of going to southern Alabama a few weeks ago
>and meeting the Turk in the flesh. A real piece of work, but u
>should see the CAR. You should hear the CAR. Absolutely, no impact
>from loud rock music after that.
>
>Best of all, parts of that country haven't changed much from when
>I biked thru there in 1970. Actually, very refreshing.....
>
>Everything above is meant to be taken as a positive compliment.
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: May 31, 2000 6:37 AM
>Subject: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
>
>
>>
>> Hey Guys Thought I would give you a quick update on the year so
>far... We
>> have run twice up in North Carolina... and the last Meet we had
>the Pleasure
>> of letting a Writer for Hot Rod Magazine Drive the Car.... Will
>Hanzel ran
>> 183.673 mph on the one Mile course up there....and is writing an
>article for
>> future Publication on our Organization,,, He also Took all the
>photos and
>> wrote an article about my Car.... should be in the issue that
>comes out in
>> Sept.
>>
>> We are Taking the car to Muroc Dry Lake in California the 23-24
>of June....
>> It's a Long Tow out there but the Record for the C Fuel Altered
>Class is
>> 171mph and we can Run Nitrous Oxide..add to that the Track is
>1.5 miles
>> long.. So we are bolting on the system here in the next couple
>days and
>> putting it on the Dyno Friday.... Then a quick Test up in North
>Carolina on
>> the Tenth.... and Away we go.... Hoping to run 200 out there in
>La....
>>
>> Oh and I am bringing the Fiberglass Buck for the Bugeye's front
>end home
>> from out there.... should be a fun trip..
>>
>> Then of course in August I am going back to Bonneville with the
>car...
>>
>> Keith Turk ( no I ain't quite Lost it Yet.... but I can't
>remember where I
>> put it either!)
>>
>>
>
>
From "John A. Vrugtman" <javrugtman at widomaker.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:08:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Product review: HobbyAir breathing system
MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
> I know no one asked , but here goes anyway!
> I have finally used the Hobbyair 1F breathing system I recently purchased for
> painting nasty Isocynide paints. In a word my review is: Awesome!
Just to add my .02, I've used one for a year now and am very happy with it,
particularly in the summer as it defogs your glasses while keeping your lungs
safe.
John
BJ8
56 F100
Norton
From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:20:58 -0400
Subject: PPG
Sorry for not being so clear. PPG is the name of the company.They make many
products, most notably automotive paints and prep products like Ditzler,
ICI, Dupont, R-M, ect. PPG actually stands for Pittsburg Plate and Glass .
Carroll
From "Jack Irby" <jackirby at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:53:51 -0400
Subject: Burbank Healeys
My Tricarb has a small, oval medallion on the lower right front fender,
right behind the wheel, that reads "Burbank Sport Car Centers." Anybody
familiar with what that was about? Thanks.
Jack
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 22:56:44 EDT
Subject: Unisys Healey ad!
I got a copy of some IT magazine today, and on it's plastic overwrap was 3
copies of an ad for UNISYS with a red Healy 3000 MkIII (series2) english type
license BE-22452 with two people in it, one with a monitor for a head!
So I went to Unisys's site, poked aroun and they have most of thier ads
displayed there, and below is the adress for a small version of the one I
have.
Enjoy!
http://www.unisys.com/ads/Swiss-post.pdf
for those of you who like to flame each other for no intelligent reason, you
should quick join the Triumph list, there's two guys over there calling each
other bad names! You're missing all the fun!
John
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:09:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Burbank Healeys
Jack
The car may have come from Jim Parkinson's BMC dealership (Burbank Sport
Car Center) in Burbank, California.
Jim was a big BMC dealer in the 50's and 60's. He also raced what he sold.
One of the neat things about his agency; if you bought your sports car from
him you could go in on Saturdays and use his garage facility to do minor
maintenance on your car. He raced and sold all the 100S's, except two, that
came out of south western BMC distributor's warehouse; he raced the first
3000 with Cal-Club; the first Sprite; Won his class at Sebring in an MGA;
etc., etc.. He is still in the car business and drives around in a 57 Chevy
Nomad!. Now he sells Nissans' Cads and GMC trucks. He's an interesting guy
to talk with, but, unfortunately, he doesn't recall a lot about the early
period.
This is probably more than you wanted to know, but I couldn't resist.
Cheers,
Ron Yates
Editor, Dipstick Digest
Newsletter of the world's smallest Austin-Healey Club
The Arizona Social Society of Healey Owners and Latent Entrepreneurs
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Irby <jackirby@erols.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 6:53 PM
Subject: Burbank Healeys
>
> My Tricarb has a small, oval medallion on the lower right front fender,
> right behind the wheel, that reads "Burbank Sport Car Centers." Anybody
> familiar with what that was about? Thanks.
>
> Jack
>
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:10:38 -0700
Subject: Rubber Cement Thinner
I've been using this stuff for years and thought I'd alert my good
friends who appreciate Healeys to the wonders of the stuff (if you
didn't know about it already that is).
I recently installed new foam and leather seats along with door panels.
I searched the archives for tips and more than once there was a warning
that once two contact cement surfaces come together it is permanent.
With Bestine (trademark of Union Rubber Inc.) which a solvent and
thinner for Rubber Cement, you can dissolve the cement without harming
foam rubber, vinyl, paint or leather. It really saved mon cul (pardon my
french) more than once. It even worked to remove the 38 year old contact
cement on the seat parts without removing the paint.
You should be able to find it in art and stationery stores. It is sold
in pints, quarts and gallon size at the larger art stores. The stuff is
extremely flammable and you should always use thick rubber gloves, and a
respirator or better yet use it outdoors to avoid the fumes but it's
worth the hassle.
It's also good for removing tree sap from painted surfaces and price
tags from everything.
enjoy,
John Loftus
BJ7 starting to come together
From "John J. Black" <transmancat at bbnow.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 23:12:58 -0700
Subject: Today's funny story from the shop!
Hi Guys,
Here is story...
UPS turn up and leave a transmission to be worked on, so far so good. The
gearbox is packed in a cardboard box that seems swollen, sort of inflated!
After I removed the plain brown wrapper I found out why. I had previously
told the owner of this gearbox that we had a unit damaged in transit and he
should pack in carefully. (my first mistake!)
His solution was to place the gearbox in a box and then fill the box with
that expanding construction foam. Now, the gearbox was not damaged at all by
the shippers! but I had to carve it out of the box, which took 4 whole
hours. That stuff goes hard and it sticks fast to everything it touches.
Great idea, but what a job I had to get that crap off.
So if ever you want some gearbox work done, and you have this idea about
construction foam....please send it elsewhere! <grin>
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 23:59:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
Ain't life grand when you can share the Event Steve... Sure glad you both
came down....
Muroc on the 23-24 of this month is going to be a Real Treat.... it's the
once a year reunion of Salt Flats racers with their roots.... on the Landing
strip at Edwards AF base....
What Steve didn't tell you was that I blew up my First motor at that event
and went a Whopping 138mph for our First Race.... The Car today isn't even
recognizable from that Meet.... Lots of work.... and it ain't even a
Healey... But he is Right... I do have a Nice Shop... Scrimped and saved for
Years and I am very Proud of it... lots of innovations and hard work... but
it's a lovely place to turn a wrench or hang out Bench Racing....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
>
> I can second Mike's comments. I had the pleasure both of watching Keith
run
> the Camaro at Maxton a year or so ago, and then visiting him at his
business
> and then at his home in south Alabama a little later. I'm still impressed
> with that garage of his!
> Good luck at Muroc, Keith.
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
>
>
> >
> >I had the pleasure of going to southern Alabama a few weeks ago
> >and meeting the Turk in the flesh. A real piece of work, but u
> >should see the CAR. You should hear the CAR. Absolutely, no impact
> >from loud rock music after that.
> >
> >Best of all, parts of that country haven't changed much from when
> >I biked thru there in 1970. Actually, very refreshing.....
> >
> >Everything above is meant to be taken as a positive compliment.
> >
> >Mike L.
> >60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: May 31, 2000 6:37 AM
> >Subject: Muroc Dry Lake ( NO LBC)
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hey Guys Thought I would give you a quick update on the year so
> >far... We
> >> have run twice up in North Carolina... and the last Meet we had
> >the Pleasure
> >> of letting a Writer for Hot Rod Magazine Drive the Car.... Will
> >Hanzel ran
> >> 183.673 mph on the one Mile course up there....and is writing an
> >article for
> >> future Publication on our Organization,,, He also Took all the
> >photos and
> >> wrote an article about my Car.... should be in the issue that
> >comes out in
> >> Sept.
> >>
> >> We are Taking the car to Muroc Dry Lake in California the 23-24
> >of June....
> >> It's a Long Tow out there but the Record for the C Fuel Altered
> >Class is
> >> 171mph and we can Run Nitrous Oxide..add to that the Track is
> >1.5 miles
> >> long.. So we are bolting on the system here in the next couple
> >days and
> >> putting it on the Dyno Friday.... Then a quick Test up in North
> >Carolina on
> >> the Tenth.... and Away we go.... Hoping to run 200 out there in
> >La....
> >>
> >> Oh and I am bringing the Fiberglass Buck for the Bugeye's front
> >end home
> >> from out there.... should be a fun trip..
> >>
> >> Then of course in August I am going back to Bonneville with the
> >car...
> >>
> >> Keith Turk ( no I ain't quite Lost it Yet.... but I can't
> >remember where I
> >> put it either!)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 22:41:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Rubber Cement Thinner
John et al
Before the days of computers in the art department Bestine was an
everyday item in the production of pre-press art (paste-ups). I learned at
an early stage in my career that the small tins of Ronson cigarette lighter
fluid contained basically the same ingredient (naptha). It works just like
rubber cement thinner and when the container was empty I refilled it with
bestine. The small tin with it's long spout made a really nice applicator
when having to lift pasted down galleys of type for changes or a photo that
had been double laminated to a flat with rubber cement.
As John said it works well (Bestine) in other applications as well. It
also works well as a spot cleaner, surface cleaner, starting barbeques,
priming engines (although ether is better), and filling cigarette and pipe
lighters!
For separating/removing contact cement; naptha works well also, and
naptha can be found at paint stores along with shellac thinner (denatured
alcohol). This is a great item to have around also and has many applications
in and around the garage and your cars.
Cheers
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 9:10 PM
Subject: Rubber Cement Thinner
>
> I've been using this stuff for years and thought I'd alert my good
> friends who appreciate Healeys to the wonders of the stuff (if you
> didn't know about it already that is).
>
> I recently installed new foam and leather seats along with door panels.
> I searched the archives for tips and more than once there was a warning
> that once two contact cement surfaces come together it is permanent.
> With Bestine (trademark of Union Rubber Inc.) which a solvent and
> thinner for Rubber Cement, you can dissolve the cement without harming
> foam rubber, vinyl, paint or leather. It really saved mon cul (pardon my
> french) more than once. It even worked to remove the 38 year old contact
> cement on the seat parts without removing the paint.
>
> You should be able to find it in art and stationery stores. It is sold
> in pints, quarts and gallon size at the larger art stores. The stuff is
> extremely flammable and you should always use thick rubber gloves, and a
> respirator or better yet use it outdoors to avoid the fumes but it's
> worth the hassle.
>
> It's also good for removing tree sap from painted surfaces and price
> tags from everything.
>
> enjoy,
>
> John Loftus
> BJ7 starting to come together
|
