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Wire gage sizes

Subject: Wire gage sizes
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 10:16:44 -0500
Does anyone have a list of the wire gage sizes matching color codes for the
Austin Healey 3000?

Don
BN7


From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 09:35:29 -0700
Subject: Wire gage sizes

"John" in Oostburg, WI . . . . please contact me off the list.
Thanks.


Terry Blubaugh
BT7
XKEv12


From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 10:15:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100/4 QUESTION ?

On Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:57:49 EDT, SIGDACMUNSTER@aol.com wrote:

<< HELLO LISTERS.
  
HOPEFULLY SOMEONE CAN ANSWER MY HUNDRED QUESTION.  
I RECENTLY INHERITED A 1954 100/4 WITH NO PAPERWORK, I THINK ITS A BN2.  NOW
I HAVE BEEN TOLD THIS CAR IS VERY RARE.  HOW DO I FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS
VEHICLE.  THANKS FOR ANY INFO.

THANKS AGAIN RICK >>

Rick,

Congratulations on your acquisition.  There is help available to establish
some facts about your car.  The first thing I would recommend would be to
establish the "Car Number" (the equivalent of the VIN). You stated that you
have no paperwork on the car, so I assume you have no title or registration
that would list it.  Here's how to find it on the car itself.  There are
three possibilities:

First and most common would be to find it on a metal plate attached, inside
the engine compartment, to the firewall.  It may well be dirty and/or
covered with grease and road grime.  Clean it carefully and you should find
an alphanumeric code in this format (where the X's represent digits):
BN1LXXXXXX.  This code will be embossed and should be readily ledgible.

The second possibility for the location of the Car Number plate is on a
metal plate attached on the top of the right hand longitudinal frame rail. 
Open the engine compartment and look for it down past the distributor --
that area -- on top of the frame. 

Yet a third possibility would be on a plastic plate attached inside the
passenger compartment on the "kick panel" (upholstered panel down by your
feet, along the outside of the footwell).

Once you know the Car Number you can easily establish data about your car
through the British Motor Indudtry Heritage Trust.  See:
http://www.healey.org/production.shtml

By the way, since you have no paperwork on the car, how do you know (or why
do you think) that it's a 1954?  Incidentally, if it really was
built/registered in 1954, it would be a BN1 series car (not BN2).  

I hope this helps.  Good luck.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org











  





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:48:08 -0400
Subject: Alabama vasectomy no LBC content

After having their 11th child, an Alabama couple decided that enough was
enough. So, the husband went to his doctor (who also treated mules) and
told him that he and his wife/cousin didn't want to have any more
children. The doctor told him that there was a procedure called a
vasectomy that could fix the problem. The doctor instructed him to go
home get a cherry bomb. (fireworks are legal in Alabama), light it, put
it in his beer can, then hold the can up to his ear and count to ten.

The Alabamian said to the doctor, "I may not be the smartest man, but I
don't see how putting a cherry bomb in my ear is going to help me."
Soooooooo the couple drove to Georgia to get a second opinion. The
Georgia physician was just about to tell him the procedure for a
vasectomy when he noticed they were from Alabama. This doctor then told
the man to go home get a cherry bomb, light it, place it in a beer can,
hold it next to his ear and count to ten.

Figuring that both learned physicians couldn't be wrong, the man went
home ,  lit a cherry bomb and put it in a beer can. He held it up to his
ear and began to count. "1, 2, 3, 4, 5," at which point he paused, put
the beer can between his legs and resumed counting on his other hand.
Also works in Tennessee.





From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:39:35 -0700
Subject: Re: temperature gauge tweaking

John,

First, make sure you are measuring everything right.  Is the thermometer in
the water fully?  Is the gage bulb fully submerged? You might thing this is
frivolous, but it can change things by a bunch.  Given that, boil the water
and make sure its low at 100C also, the thermometer may be off some.  If its
still off, then make sure the bordon tube is moving okay, and the gears
which move the needle are not jammed, binding, etc.  make sure it reads the
same going from low to high, and back again.

Given all that, and its still off, then carefully pry the needle off the
shaft.  This is a very delicate operation.  I usually use two small
screwdrivers.  If you can get a needle puller, this is much better, a
speedometer shop may be able to help you.  Then, with the bulb in the
boiling water, set the needle back on the shaft so it indicates 100C (or
212F), and lightly press it on with your finger, gently but firmly.

It should now be correct at least at the boiling point.  Let things cool and
check against the thermometer on the way down and back up.  If it is now non
linear, the bordon billows is suspect and probably stretched, and you'll
have to send it off to the gage restoration shop.

Hope this helps
Jerry Rude
BJ8

John Loftus wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I tested my temperature gauge by removing the sending unit, putting it
> in near boiling water and comparing the instrument gauge with a cooking
> thermometer.  The instrument gauge is reading about 30 degrees too cold.
> Is there a way to adjust the temperature gauge?
>
> Thanks,
> John Loftus
> BJ7


From "Eugene R. Montresor" <ermontresor at snet.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 20:42:14 -0400
Subject: vacation

I love you guys alot but since I'm going on vacation for a week I won't
be able to handle the 1000 emails when I return so how do I remove my
self from the list for one week??  Have to pull the plug on Tuesday
10/3.

Gene

64 BJ

From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 22:20:34 EDT
Subject: E type trunk lid for sale

If any one needs one, contact me, or if possible forward to the Jag list?
I am told it is a 70 ish E type, (conv. obviously) trunk lid.  It is in very 
nice shape, and is in red oxide primer.  I assume it was on a car, but seems 
to have never had any damage.  Will probably go to E bay if no one wants it.

thanks!

John    
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!) 
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.

From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:22:30 -0400
Subject: Plating Parts- long

Hi folks,
A few weeks ago I posted a message asking if anyone had thoughts or sources
for where one could go for zinc plating all the miscellaneous little parts,
screws, clips and so on for a restoration project.
I'd like to follow up on the results of all this, hopefully to benefit
others who need the same info.
My good friend, Blair Harber (remember all aluminum BN1 preproduction #14 at
Conclave this year) loaned me a plating kit he purchased from Eastwood's.
The kit contains all the things required to do zinc plating, including the
jug of electrolyte, sacrificial zinc strip, battery pack to hold 4 "D"
series batteries with clips, plastic containers, funnels, goggles, rubber
gloves, and instruction book.
I began by cleaning the parts with a brass wire wheel, rinsed them
thoroughly in a 4 to 1 water / muriatic acid to remove all traces of oils,
etc, rinsed again in clean water, dried, and plated immediately.
Larger parts such as brackets, levers, etc.were plated by clipping the one
lead straight onto the part and immersing into the electrolyte, agitating
gently for 3 to 4 minutes until adequate light grey looking zinc was
deposited onto the part, then it was immediately rinsed in clean water, and
set out to air dry.
The small bits such as screws, clips, special washers, etc. were set into a
fine wire metal sieve, the electrode clip was fastened to the handle and the
contents were emersed for 3 to 4 minutes, again agitating gently until the
plating was sufficient. This was rinsed with clean water, and the bits were
laid out to dry.
The final step, with the parts air dried, was to go over everything with
either a paste polish (also provided) or a very fine steel wool and the
parts became a bright zinc right away.
This process is really easy. Great care must be taken to use the acids with
respect, always using the rubber gloves, long sleeves and the goggles
provided, and of course don't stand directly over things to avoid breathing
the slight fumes.
I did this procedure in my garage with both 9ft doors open and a shop floor
fan running to circulate lots of fresh air. The actual plating process
itself took about 3 hours to plate everything needed for the BN2 I am
currently restoring.
I encourage anyone to give this home plating kit a try.
Rich Chrysler



From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 19:55:29 -0700
Subject: Re: vacation

Gene,

I've done the same several times. A day before vacation/trip just do the
following:

send mail to <Majordomo@autox.team.net> with the following
command in the body of your email message:

    unsubscribe healeys

When you get back just subscribe again.

Cheers,
John

From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:42:31 EDT
Subject: Southeastern Classic

Just loaded to the North Texas Austin Healey Club web site 
(http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/) , pictures of the 2000 SEC. held in 
Litchfield, SC.

See what you missed if you didn't attend. For those that where there I have 
put some of the pics I took showing all the fun we had. I will also upload 
more of them in the future.

Coming soon, pictures of the Tri Healey held in Kimberling City, MO

Don Lenschow
NTAHC

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:22:28 -0600
Subject: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified

Some thoughts on spoked wheels..
the wheels have static and dynamic loads, The greatest static load is the
spoke tension. The force of the spoke tension compresses the rim. The spoke
tension directly effects rim compression such that a change in average
tension causes proportional changes in rim compression.
 The foremost dynamic load is the weight of the vehicle and the road
surfaces a rolling wheel encounters. Additionally there are lateral, radial,
and lastly torsional loads, which are caused by braking and torque. These
loads all combine to bend, twist and deform the wheel in elastic dimensions
and ultimately are the cause of wheel failures i.e. broken spokes.
 The hub turns the wheel by changing the tension of the spokes. Half of the
spokes become tighter and half become looser. note: Radial spokes cannot
transmit torque hence the reason for crossing spoke patterns. Technically
stated, torque effects all spokes equally but in two directions. Half the
spokes become tighter and half become looser. Total torque is equal to the
tension change, times the number of spokes, times the hub radius. The
tighter spokes are "pulling" and the looser are "pushing" So, the pulling
spokes stretch and become longerand the pushing spokes compress and become
shorter. Thus, the rim bulges inward at the pulling spokes and bulges
outward at the pushing spokes, and then there is the rim deformation at the
contact patch and the lateral load changes imparted by directional changes.
yada,yada...
 Next it a lengthy discussion of metal fatigue, strain, elasticity, yield
etc. I'll contain it to spokes. They fail from FATIGUE. They are loaded and
unloaded with each wheel revolution. The spoke threads and the elbow end are
affected most due to the highest stress points( another lengthy discussion)
The bottom line: Spoke fatigue results from the combination of static
stress, the load carried, the distance traveled and the number  of spokes
that share the work load.
 The main reason Healey increased the spoke count as the years passed was to
deal with increases in vehicle weight. You may have noticed that more front
wheel spokes fail than rear wheel spokes.
 That's all I have to say.......there are a zillion books on the subject.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Broken Spoke Question - Experience


>
> Hello Listers,
> With all due respect to all who have voiced their opinions and experiences
> in the last few days, I'd like to add my own 2 cents worth.
> Many of you know that I like, prefer, own, drive Hundreds (that's 100/4's
to
> the uninitiated). These cars came with drum brakes all around, and were
> originally fitted with 48 spoke wheels.
> Back in the mid 1980's, I came across a terrific package deal, including 3
> Hundreds, and by actual count, 276 boxes and crates of Hundred parts,
almost
> all of it used stuff.
> I kept the best Hundred of the deal, fully restored her, and had my choice
> of some 28 wheels, all originals, most of them pretty good. By good, I
mean
> they were reasonably true, had no rust, broken spokes, poor splines, or
> accident damage. I chose the best 6, had them carefully powder blasted and
> painted.
> When the car was completed, I installed Pirelli P3, 165X15 tires and was
on
> the road. Any of you who know me know that I drive my cars, everywhere and
> anywhere as long as it's not in salt conditions.
> These wheels started breaking spokes.
> What to do....I bought a set of new Dunlop 48 spoke wheels, and yes they
> were some of today's  India manufactured ones.
> I has the almost new tires and tubes reinstalled on these new wheels, had
> them only bubble balanced, and the problem was solved. I never experienced
> any broken spokes again.
> I have imported and installed this same combination on a number of
Hundreds
> for other people, and have never heard of a problem from theirs either.
> I will say that I'm not one to take my car into gymkhanas or  slalom
courses
> with these 48 spoke wheels, but all kinds of public road driving, even
quite
> "vigorous" driving ha never given me a problem.
> I really do prefer the look of the 48 spoke wheel on a Hundred. The 60 and
> even more so, the 72 spoke wheel looks too heavy and "busy" on the light,
> clean lines of the car.
> On a six cylinder model, the issue may be different, and probably the 60
> spoke wheel would be a good compromise, but the car is heavier, the
> proportions give the car a heavier look, and the 60 spoke wheel looks more
> in place.
> I think the bottom line here may have to do with aged and fatigued wheels
> not standing up compared to new ones.
> Just my  2 cents worth.
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
>


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:06:02 -0400
Subject: Fire extinguishers

Folks,

           What kind of fire extinguishers are you carrying in your cars?
Also, does anyone have an old Healey car dealer/ repair shop license plate 
advertising frame they would like to sell?

Mike B

From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:18:46 EDT
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified

In a message dated 10/2/00 10:19:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
frogeye@gateway.net writes:

<< That's all I have to say >>

Thanks Forrest!

Michael

From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:14:24 -0500 
Subject: Sniff, sniff

Hi,

A critical part of adjusting our beloved SU carbs is to set the mixture at
idle accurately, which, if all is well, assures proper mixture throughout
the rev and load range.   The methods employed for verification are the
piston lifting pin and Colortune spark plugs for flame color.

I suppose that one can get pretty proficient at this with practice, given
the interaction between mixture and idle speed control.   The six-cylinder
intake manifold design has limitations in that mixture is not uniform across
the three cylinders that a carb feeds so the Colortune method will be
time-consuming.

The best way to set mixture is probably through the use of an air/fuel ratio
meter stuck into the tail pipe.   On BJ8 models the true dual exhaust allows
sniffing of the two carbs independently, which makes things easier.
Reading up on these systems, it appears that one needs a heated oxygen
sensor, a fixture to hold it in the tailpipe and a voltmeter.   It looks
like O2 sensors produce 0.45 volts when the mixture is at the correct
stoichiometric setting.   A nice advantage is that one can set the mixture
at different RPMs and loads, not just at idle.

Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should be
possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
anyone built one and would care to share their results?   Even if the design
is not perfect, one could calibrate it by sticking it up the tailpipe of a
modern fuel-injected car.

Regards,
Adnan

From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 09:20:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

I have a smallish Halon fire extinguisher, purchased some time ago for
use on fires in electronic gear.  Rated 5-B:C  I wonder if it is big
enough.  It is certainly large enough for a place in an easily
accessible spot in a Healey trunk.

-Roland
BJ7

On Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:06:02 -0400, you wrote:

:: 
:: Folks,
:: 
::            What kind of fire extinguishers are you carrying in your cars?
:: Also, does anyone have an old Healey car dealer/ repair shop license plate 
:: advertising frame they would like to sell?
:: 
:: Mike B


From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:21:39 EDT
Subject: Re: wire harness layout


In a message dated 9/29/00 10:26:09 AM, jdrax@badger.tds.net writes:

<< wondering if someone could help me with some sort of picture or diagram as
to where the dash and engine compartment wire harness lays and is fastened
down. >>

The type of car would help us a lot but I would assume that we are talking 
about a Healey. We have a set of photos of a restored BN4 and a BJ7 under 
restoration, they cover the car complete from a bare chassis to a completed 
car.  The photos are all close up shots from all directions with and without 
the body, showing the wiring, suspension, brakes, engine, fuel system etc in 
detail. These were all taken as the car was being reassembled so they are all 
clean and new parts.
 We are now in the process of doing the same thing for a BJ8, BT7 and a BN1 
which will be available in about a year.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>Br
itishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:25:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers


In a message dated 10/2/00 8:07:54 AM, mbrouill@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< 
Folks,

           What kind of fire extinguishers are you carrying in your cars?
Also, does anyone have an old Healey car dealer/ repair shop license plate 
advertising frame they would like to sell?

Mike B >>

I've got a pretty chrome fire extinguisher that I bought from Moss, fastened 
horizontally to the vertical transmission bulkhead above the tranny tunnel 
cover.  lots of people comment positively about its attractiveness, and I 
know that either the driver or passenger can reach it should it ever become 
necessary.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:03:03 EDT
Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Ray...
Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard "drive 
on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is for 
traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If 
people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.

Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are 
perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of 
bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space and 
the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and use 
your blinker while doing it.

David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!

PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding 
related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!

Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps? 
Aren't they there to ensure that
everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law abiding
drivers

From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:22:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Sniff, sniff

>Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should be
>possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
>anyone built one and would care to share their results?   Even if the design
>is not perfect, one could calibrate it by sticking it up the tailpipe of a
>modern fuel-injected car.

God, I hope the Roger Menadue doesn't see this!

Herman
-- 

Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc

From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:25:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

I carry an extinguisher in all my cars on the premise that if I have it I won't
need it.  Has worked so far.

However, I did have occasion to rescue a brand new Porsche coupe a while back.
Pulled to roadside with smoke coming out of the engine cooling louvers and
starting to enter the passenger compartment, driver and passenger bailed out
running around like the proverbial chickens, both doors open to provide maximum
airflow for the coming conflagration.  I got them to grab a coat and throw it
over the engine vents and close the doors while I shot my 10:B-C extinguisher
into the engine from underneath (I feared opening the engine compartment to get 
a
better shot would result in explosive growth of the fire- in MY face). Retarded
-didn't completely put out- the fire for about 3-4 minutes, long enough for the
fire Dept. to arrive.  Saved the car.  The owner didn't even say "thanks".

In case you've never had extinguisher training the rules of thumb are:

1.    For dry chem devices:  shake them up periodically and right before use 
(the
key contents can settle and cake such that not all will be expelled).
2.    Aim at the base of the fire, not at the flames above.
3.    Use all the extinguisher in one long shot (starting and stopping tends to
result in a significant portion of the contents left in the device).

Dry chem devices leave a real mess to clean up.  As to the best size, my (very
limited) experience resulted in an upgrade to a 20 in our van, but the Ghia and
Austin both have 10s due to the obvious space limitations.

I would be very, very interested to hear from any Listers who have experienced a
Healey engine fire  (I've heard liquid sputtering as it dripped from the carb
hoses to the hot exhaust- it didn't ignite but I still shudder at the
recollection).

Pete Pollock


From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:36:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Dave,
 Is that a subliminal message about the Democrats in your message?
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> Ray...
> Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
"drive
> on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is
for
> traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If
> people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
>
> Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are
> perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of
> bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space
and
> the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and
use
> your blinker while doing it.
>
> David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
>
> PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding
> related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
> If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
>
> Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps?
> Aren't they there to ensure that
> everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
> ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
abiding
> drivers
>


From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:32:14 -0400 
Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Hey guys...I'm-a stayin' outa this one!

Well I SHOULD but I can't...Dave's right! In my very humble opinion.

Dave




        David R. Masucci
        Senior RF Engineer

        PinPoint Corporation 
        One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
        phone: (978) 901-0028   ext: 363  
        fax: (978) 901-0050
        email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com

        http://www.pinpointco.com



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of DMMax@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:03 PM
To: feehanr@cadvision.com; rsdslp@juno.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")



Ray...
Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
"drive 
on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is for

traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If 
people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.

Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are 
perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of 
bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space
and 
the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and use 
your blinker while doing it.

David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!

PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding 
related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!

Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps? 
Aren't they there to ensure that
everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law abiding
drivers

From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 13:47:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Sniff, sniff

"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A critical part of adjusting our beloved SU carbs is to set the mixture at
> idle accurately, which, if all is well, assures proper mixture throughout
> the rev and load range.   The methods employed for verification are the
> piston lifting pin and Colortune spark plugs for flame color.
>
> I suppose that one can get pretty proficient at this with practice, given
> the interaction between mixture and idle speed control.   The six-cylinder
> intake manifold design has limitations in that mixture is not uniform across
> the three cylinders that a carb feeds so the Colortune method will be
> time-consuming.
>
> The best way to set mixture is probably through the use of an air/fuel ratio
> meter stuck into the tail pipe.   On BJ8 models the true dual exhaust allows
> sniffing of the two carbs independently, which makes things easier.
> Reading up on these systems, it appears that one needs a heated oxygen
> sensor, a fixture to hold it in the tailpipe and a voltmeter.   It looks
> like O2 sensors produce 0.45 volts when the mixture is at the correct
> stoichiometric setting.   A nice advantage is that one can set the mixture
> at different RPMs and loads, not just at idle.
>
> Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should be
> possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
> anyone built one and would care to share their results?   Even if the design
> is not perfect, one could calibrate it by sticking it up the tailpipe of a
> modern fuel-injected car.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan

This stuff is all available, but at some cost.
See

http://www.mossmotors.com/britishaccessories/mechanicalsystems/Intake/hafafri.html



--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>



From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:58:37 -0400
Subject: Fw: Plating Parts- long


----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: Plating Parts- long


> Rich,
> That stuff is not as noxious as Eastwood lets on.  I have never found it
> necessary to wear rubber gloves or use forced ventilation, but it
certainly
> will discolor clothing if splashed on.  Also works great on OD throttle
> switches!  Now, if only someone made a home black oxide process...
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 12:22 AM
> Subject: Plating Parts- long
>
>
> >
> > Hi folks,
> > A few weeks ago I posted a message asking if anyone had thoughts or
> sources
> > for where one could go for zinc plating all the miscellaneous little
> parts,
> > screws, clips and so on for a restoration project.
> > I'd like to follow up on the results of all this, hopefully to benefit
> > others who need the same info.
> > My good friend, Blair Harber (remember all aluminum BN1 preproduction
#14
> at
> > Conclave this year) loaned me a plating kit he purchased from
Eastwood's.
> > The kit contains all the things required to do zinc plating, including
the
> > jug of electrolyte, sacrificial zinc strip, battery pack to hold 4 "D"
> > series batteries with clips, plastic containers, funnels, goggles,
rubber
> > gloves, and instruction book.
> > I began by cleaning the parts with a brass wire wheel, rinsed them
> > thoroughly in a 4 to 1 water / muriatic acid to remove all traces of
oils,
> > etc, rinsed again in clean water, dried, and plated immediately.
> > Larger parts such as brackets, levers, etc.were plated by clipping the
one
> > lead straight onto the part and immersing into the electrolyte,
agitating
> > gently for 3 to 4 minutes until adequate light grey looking zinc was
> > deposited onto the part, then it was immediately rinsed in clean water,
> and
> > set out to air dry.
> > The small bits such as screws, clips, special washers, etc. were set
into
> a
> > fine wire metal sieve, the electrode clip was fastened to the handle and
> the
> > contents were emersed for 3 to 4 minutes, again agitating gently until
the
> > plating was sufficient. This was rinsed with clean water, and the bits
> were
> > laid out to dry.
> > The final step, with the parts air dried, was to go over everything with
> > either a paste polish (also provided) or a very fine steel wool and the
> > parts became a bright zinc right away.
> > This process is really easy. Great care must be taken to use the acids
> with
> > respect, always using the rubber gloves, long sleeves and the goggles
> > provided, and of course don't stand directly over things to avoid
> breathing
> > the slight fumes.
> > I did this procedure in my garage with both 9ft doors open and a shop
> floor
> > fan running to circulate lots of fresh air. The actual plating process
> > itself took about 3 hours to plate everything needed for the BN2 I am
> > currently restoring.
> > I encourage anyone to give this home plating kit a try.
> > Rich Chrysler
> >
> >
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:37:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the word
spellcheck strike a bell? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")


> Ray...
> Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
"drive
> on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is
for
> traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If
> people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
>
> Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are
> perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of
> bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space
and
> the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and
use
> your blinker while doing it.
>
> David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
>
> PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding
> related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
> If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
>
> Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps?
> Aren't they there to ensure that
> everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
> ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
abiding
> drivers
>


From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:28:51 -0700 
Subject: Healey 1000/4 motorcycle

Someone wanted more info on the Healey 1000/4 motorcycle. Per the 1974
Superbikes book,
Tim and George Healey, brothers from Birmingham inserted a modified Ariel
square four in to a spine type frame of their own design. The book says the
result was a very nice combination and handles quite well. 997cc, 45 hp, 380
pounds. 
Ken Freese

From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 15:35:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Well since we are on the subject of those left lane dosers.  I found out much 
to my suprise that the left lane for passing law is a myth in most states.  
Yea, check your drivers hand book and you will find that this is not in fact a 
law.  Courtesy yes, but not a law.

Interesting how most people think otherwise hua?

Tim

In a message dated Mon, 2 Oct 2000  1:07:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
DMMax@aol.com writes:

<< 
Ray...
Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard "drive 
on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is for 
traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If 
people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.

Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are 
perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of 
bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space and 
the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and use 
your blinker while doing it.

David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!

PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding 
related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!

Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps? 
Aren't they there to ensure that
everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law abiding
drivers
 >>



From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:52:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Take the test at http://paynofine.com it's free.

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
To: <DMMax@aol.com>; <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> Well since we are on the subject of those left lane dosers.  I found out
much to my suprise that the left lane for passing law is a myth in most
states.  Yea, check your drivers hand book and you will find that this is
not in fact a law.  Courtesy yes, but not a law.
>
> Interesting how most people think otherwise hua?
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated Mon, 2 Oct 2000  1:07:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
DMMax@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Ray...
> Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
"drive
> on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is
for
> traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If
> people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
>
> Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are
> perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of
> bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space
and
> the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and
use
> your blinker while doing it.
>
> David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
>
> PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding
> related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
> If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
>
> Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps?
> Aren't they there to ensure that
> everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
> ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
abiding
> drivers
>  >>
>
>
>


From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:51:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey 1000/4 motorcycle

The Bro's were from Redditch England if the fella who wants the Info will
get the Book on Aerial's there is a Very Nice Write up on the Bike with
several Pictures... it was a Kinda Cafe' racer Piece... and It's another
one of those Toys that I would really like to have....

Keith Turk.... ( went to Maxton this weekend and Ran 195 with the Old Iron
298 cu in motor... what a Blast )

----------
> From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Healey 1000/4 motorcycle
> Date: Monday, October 02, 2000 2:28 PM
> 
> 
> Someone wanted more info on the Healey 1000/4 motorcycle. Per the 1974
> Superbikes book,
> Tim and George Healey, brothers from Birmingham inserted a modified Ariel
> square four in to a spine type frame of their own design. The book says
the
> result was a very nice combination and handles quite well. 997cc, 45 hp,
380
> pounds. 
> Ken Freese

From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:54:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

 pollpete@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< I would be very, very interested to hear from any Listers who have 
experienced a
 Healey engine fire >>

I set the BN4 on fire once. During it's maiden test voyage the carb developed 
a leak at the diaphragm and the overdrive would not work. So while waiting 
for the car to cool down so I could fix the Carburetor I decided to 
troubleshoot the electric's of the OD.

Sure enough I dropped my hot test lead into the pool of fuel leaking form the 
carb and it sparked. Suddenly I had a huge fireball. Since it was a test run 
for the car I had my halon fire extinguisher on the front seat. One quick 
spurt through the fender vents of the rally car and it was out. No damage to 
the car and no mess to clean up.

Halon is illegal now but you can still find them around. I have one in each 
car and I swear by them. They are attracted to the heat source and don't 
require direct spray so they are perfect for automotive use. Also are 
normally good for a ten year life. Yes, they damage the ozone but less than 
the fire would.

Anyone have good suggestions for a replacement for the Halon? I know several 
products are out there.

Regarding your Porsche experience. A few years ago my 300 ZX caught fire due 
to an injector line (later subject to a recall). Fire was suddenly licking 
the windshield as I was driving. Because I had spent many years in the 
automotive business I knew exactly what to do. Rolled to a stop and threw out 
all my CD's and personal possessions onto someone's lawn and then watched the 
car burn. Nothing worse than repairing a car that was in a fire. Unless it's 
priceless like your Healey just let the car burn. Bystanders were dragging 
hoses up and everyone was in a panic except me. Once you see those big flames 
you are screwed so let it burn. Finally someone brought a fire extinguisher 
and I took my time putting out the fire. After insurance I was out $400. 
Small price to pay for the misfortune and i was driving a new Porsche within 
a week of the incident

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY 
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:02:29 -0600
Subject: Fw: Left is for passing (was "Average")

opps, make that   http://www.paynofine.com

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>; <DMMax@aol.com>; <feehanr@cadvision.com>;
<rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> Take the test at http://paynofine.com it's free.
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{)  54 BN1
>
> Click below for webpage and mopeds:
> http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Healybj8@aol.com>
> To: <DMMax@aol.com>; <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
>
> >
> > Well since we are on the subject of those left lane dosers.  I found out
> much to my suprise that the left lane for passing law is a myth in most
> states.  Yea, check your drivers hand book and you will find that this is
> not in fact a law.  Courtesy yes, but not a law.
> >
> > Interesting how most people think otherwise hua?
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > In a message dated Mon, 2 Oct 2000  1:07:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> DMMax@aol.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Ray...
> > Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
> "drive
> > on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is
> for
> > traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law !
If
> > people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
> >
> > Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are
> > perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause
of
> > bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe
space
> and
> > the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and
> use
> > your blinker while doing it.
> >
> > David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
> >
> > PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
speeding
> > related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with
this.
> > If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
> >
> > Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps?
> > Aren't they there to ensure that
> > everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> > dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're
the
> > ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
> abiding
> > drivers
> >  >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>


From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:28:48 -0400 
Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")

It is a law in Pennsylvania that was just passed this year.  You have 2
miles to pass or move over to the right lane.

Don Pritchard
"73 J-H


        -----Original Message-----
        From:   Healybj8@aol.com [SMTP:Healybj8@aol.com]
        Sent:   Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM
        To:     DMMax@aol.com; feehanr@cadvision.com; rsdslp@juno.com;
healeys@autox.team.net
        Subject:        Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")


        Well since we are on the subject of those left lane dosers.  I found
out much to my suprise that the left lane for passing law is a myth in most
states.  Yea, check your drivers hand book and you will find that this is
not in fact a law.  Courtesy yes, but not a law.

        Interesting how most people think otherwise hua?

        Tim

        In a message dated Mon, 2 Oct 2000  1:07:14 PM Eastern Daylight
Time, DMMax@aol.com writes:

        << 
        Ray...
        Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever
heard "drive 
        on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right
lane is for 
        traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the
law ! If 
        people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.

        Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane
are 
        perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the
cause of 
        bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe
space and 
        the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER ....
and use 
        your blinker while doing it.

        David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!

        PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
speeding 
        related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with
this.
        If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!

        Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
traps? 
        Aren't they there to ensure that
        everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The
truly
        dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits.
They're the
        ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
abiding
        drivers
         >>
        

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:45:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

That should be interesting to enforce.

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard@oceprinting.com>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>; <DMMax@aol.com>; <feehanr@cadvision.com>;
<rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> It is a law in Pennsylvania that was just passed this year.  You have 2
> miles to pass or move over to the right lane.
>
> Don Pritchard
> "73 J-H
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [SMTP:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM
> To: DMMax@aol.com; feehanr@cadvision.com; rsdslp@juno.com;
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
>
> Well since we are on the subject of those left lane dosers.  I found
> out much to my suprise that the left lane for passing law is a myth in
most
> states.  Yea, check your drivers hand book and you will find that this is
> not in fact a law.  Courtesy yes, but not a law.
>
> Interesting how most people think otherwise hua?
>
> Tim
>
> In a message dated Mon, 2 Oct 2000  1:07:14 PM Eastern Daylight
> Time, DMMax@aol.com writes:
>
> <<
> Ray...
> Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever
> heard "drive
> on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right
> lane is for
> traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the
> law ! If
> people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
>
> Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane
> are
> perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the
> cause of
> bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe
> space and
> the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER ....
> and use
> your blinker while doing it.
>
> David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
>
> PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
> speeding
> related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with
> this.
> If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
>
> Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> traps?
> Aren't they there to ensure that
> everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The
> truly
> dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits.
> They're the
> ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
> abiding
> drivers
> >>
>
>


From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 14:23:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

Hmmn...  Interesting angle.  Maybe I should remove the extinguishers from our
ordinary transport.

Pete

>  Once you see those big flames
> you are screwed so let it burn.


From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:13:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Sniff, sniff

Adnan, I was under the impression that for a Healey to pass emissions they
had to be leaned out a great deal. Which made them run very hot...not a good
thing. I thought people were leaning them out for the test just before
getting there then adjusting them back shortly after passing. Point is,
comparing it to a modern fuel injected car would not be good for the car
because of its leanness. The measurement taken after a good tune-up and used
for subsequent adjustments would seem like a good idea but I have no idea
what that would be. If I'm missing the point here could someone straighten
me out...Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: "'healeys@Autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:14 AM
Subject: Sniff, sniff


>
> Hi,
>
> A critical part of adjusting our beloved SU carbs is to set the mixture at
> idle accurately, which, if all is well, assures proper mixture throughout
> the rev and load range.   The methods employed for verification are the
> piston lifting pin and Colortune spark plugs for flame color.
>
> I suppose that one can get pretty proficient at this with practice, given
> the interaction between mixture and idle speed control.   The six-cylinder
> intake manifold design has limitations in that mixture is not uniform
across
> the three cylinders that a carb feeds so the Colortune method will be
> time-consuming.
>
> The best way to set mixture is probably through the use of an air/fuel
ratio
> meter stuck into the tail pipe.   On BJ8 models the true dual exhaust
allows
> sniffing of the two carbs independently, which makes things easier.
> Reading up on these systems, it appears that one needs a heated oxygen
> sensor, a fixture to hold it in the tailpipe and a voltmeter.   It looks
> like O2 sensors produce 0.45 volts when the mixture is at the correct
> stoichiometric setting.   A nice advantage is that one can set the mixture
> at different RPMs and loads, not just at idle.
>
> Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should
be
> possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
> anyone built one and would care to share their results?   Even if the
design
> is not perfect, one could calibrate it by sticking it up the tailpipe of a
> modern fuel-injected car.
>
> Regards,
> Adnan


From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:32:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average") -the law

It is precisely because peopple do not choose to agree that most traffic laws 
are based on "courtesy". Yes, in most states the left lane is not a travel 
lane (I've been told that over and over in traffic school too). Almost all 
states have it worded in such a way as "when a vehicle approaches from the 
rear and wants to pass, you should move to the right and let them pass.", and 
the most common sign on highways "Slower traffic keep right"
Also where the law indicates "right of way" is also written in a way that 
does not "give" anyone right of way. The laws are cleverly written to say 
things like, "when two cars approach an intersection at approximately the 
same time the vehicle to the left shall yeild right of way to the driver to 
the right" that means that no right of way exists until it is yielded.
All this was done with a sense of awareness of other drivers and a "spirit of 
law" that requires understanding. With proper understanding and cooperation 
on the road fast drivers can go about their business, as well as slower 
drivers.

Rick
San Diego

From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:43:00 -0700
Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Not that it really matters but it is Law in Australia and you will be 
fined for sitting in the middle (since we are on the other side of 
the road there) lane.

It is a good thing and I was most impressed when driving through 
Europe and the UK that people there really do adhere to this. Since I 
have been over here in the US I am appalled at the (lack of) courtesy.

There are 3 things I really notice ...
1. sitting on the inside lane and not moving over.
2. Not using indicators AT ALL, just moving on over when they feel 
like it. (my experience here is mainly SoCal and living in LA)
3. Tail gaters or bumper riders .. sitting inches from your rear 
RATHER than going around .. and if I leave a gap to the car in front 
for safety someone is bound to jump on into it, even if they don't 
quite fit.

These aren't keeping me awake at night just observations .. and no I 
don't think us Aussies are the greatest drivers in the world either.

My 10 cents worth
Rohan
BN4


At 4:28 PM -0400 10/2/00, Pritchard, Donald wrote:
>It is a law in Pennsylvania that was just passed this year.  You have 2
>miles to pass or move over to the right lane.
-- 
*******************************
Rohan Marr
Ph: 1 (650) 949-9435
Mobile US: (310) 990-0143
Mobile Au: 0413 747 277
____________

... between two evils, I always like to pick the one
     I never tried before.
                      -Mae West (1892-1980)
____________

... "Helmet laws are unjust and interfere
with natural selection."
                      -someone (1998)
____________


From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 15:38:53 -0700
Subject: AHCSD at San Diego British Car Day, 10/01/00

A good time was had by all yesterday. Must've been well over a hundred 
British Cars, including a couple dozen Healeys. Some photos, taken by 
myself and Louis Galper, are at 
<http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=48550&a=9166041>.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
<http://www.netcom.com/~rsnover>


From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:49:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

In a message dated 10/2/00 3:58:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com 
writes:

<< Halon is illegal now but you can still find them around. I have one in 
each 
 car and I swear by them. They are attracted to the heat source and don't 
 require direct spray so they are perfect for automotive use. Also are 
 normally good for a ten year life. Yes, they damage the ozone but less than 
 the fire would.
 
 Anyone have good suggestions for a replacement for the Halon? I know several 
 products are out there. >>

Thedre is a Halon replacement that is easily purchased thru any Fire 
Extinguisher  company--check it out.  Also, if your old Halon 1301 
extinguiushers are still full then hang on to them--it is not illegal to have 
an use them--merely to trade in the old Halon.

Michael

From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:03:52 -0400
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified

Dave,

Appreciate the discussion on the spoke loads.  But how do spokes push?  The
spoke nuts have no shoulder to exert a load against the rim, so how do they
exert a push against the rim?

Keith
The
> tighter spokes are "pulling" and the looser are "pushing" So, the pulling
> spokes stretch and become longerand the pushing spokes compress and become
> shorter. Thus, the rim bulges inward at the pulling spokes and bulges
> outward at the pushing spokes, and then there is the rim deformation at
the
> contact patch and the lateral load changes imparted by directional
changes.
> yada,yada...



From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 16:21:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers

Here is a gleaning from another list regarding halon replacements.
YMMV.
-Roland

::  HALATRON I is a halon replacement and is redily available
:: from a fire equpment suppley shop. I
:: > > got a 2.5lbs all steel unit made by AMEREX (the #1 manufacturer) for
:: $80. It's about $30 to refill.
:: > >
:: > > http://amerex-fire.com/sales/halotron.html

On Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:49:41 EDT, you wrote:

:: Thedre is a Halon replacement that is easily purchased thru any Fire 
:: Extinguisher  company--check it out.  Also, if your old Halon 1301 
:: extinguiushers are still full then hang on to them--it is not illegal to 
:have 
:: an use them--merely to trade in the old Halon.
:: 
:: Michae


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:23:05 -0400
Subject: Another plug for the BJ8 registry

Hello, Healeyphiles!

I was at the "Autumn in the Mountains" British car event in Flat Rock, NC
this past weekend.  There was a dark blue BJ8 there that had lost its VIN
plate and was at some point re-registered with a substitute Florida DMV
number.  Using the body number that was still there and the information on
body numbers of other cars listed in the BJ8 registry, I was able to
identify the car as a very, very late BJ8.  That was enough to convince the
owner to pull the right front wheel and examine the number stamped on the
shock tower (which he didn't know about).   This was the 85th car from the
very end of production, HBJ8L/42941.  Now the owner can do with that
information whatever he wants.  The car is for sale, by the way.

The point is, having the details of a lot of cars collected in one place can
be very helpful at times.   When last I wrote about the registry a few
months ago, the number of cars included had just passed 3,542 (20% of total
original production).  The number is now at 3,625.  Anyone who has not
contributed the details on their BJ8 to the registry is cordially invited to
do so.

We now return you to our regularly-scheduled e-mail traffic.

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA




From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:25:12 -0400
Subject: Congrats Aussies

Rohan, et.al.

I doubt any of you guys had a lot to do with it, but I just had to express
this comment.

I have spent many hours during the past 2 weeks watching the Olympics on the
tube.  I must say that I was extremely impressed with the way the games went
in Sydney.  It all seemed to flow well, opening and closing ceremonies
excellent, the sights were wonderful, and NBC did a super job of
broadcasting.

Congrats, Aussies!  The best Olympics yet!

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Rohan Marr <rohan@marketocracy.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 5:43 PM
Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> Not that it really matters but it is Law in Australia and you will be
> fined for sitting in the middle (since we are on the other side of
> the road there) lane.



From sbaker at factory-automation.net (Scott Baker)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:14:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Another plug for the BJ8 registry

Hello,

I am new to this Healey-mail system, but the reason I subscribed is I am
looking for a nice MKII or III to drive (mostly), and show sometimes.  Car
must be unmolested, and uncorroded.  I can't afford a nut and bolt
restoration, and don't have the time for a big project.  I am not a newcomer
to being the caretaker of a British car, having most recently a low original
mile MGTC What can I find in a big Healey along these lines?  I am in
Southern California, and would like to find locate one nearby if possible.
Any suggestions?

Scott Baker


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:23 PM
Subject: Another plug for the BJ8 registry


>
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> I was at the "Autumn in the Mountains" British car event in Flat Rock, NC
> this past weekend.  There was a dark blue BJ8 there that had lost its VIN
> plate and was at some point re-registered with a substitute Florida DMV
> number.  Using the body number that was still there and the information on
> body numbers of other cars listed in the BJ8 registry, I was able to
> identify the car as a very, very late BJ8.  That was enough to convince
the
> owner to pull the right front wheel and examine the number stamped on the
> shock tower (which he didn't know about).   This was the 85th car from the
> very end of production, HBJ8L/42941.  Now the owner can do with that
> information whatever he wants.  The car is for sale, by the way.
>
> The point is, having the details of a lot of cars collected in one place
can
> be very helpful at times.   When last I wrote about the registry a few
> months ago, the number of cars included had just passed 3,542 (20% of
total
> original production).  The number is now at 3,625.  Anyone who has not
> contributed the details on their BJ8 to the registry is cordially invited
to
> do so.
>
> We now return you to our regularly-scheduled e-mail traffic.
>
> Happy Healeying!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>


From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 19:33:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> To: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Plating Parts- long
> 
> > Rich,
> > That stuff is not as noxious as Eastwood lets on.  I have never found it
> > necessary to wear rubber gloves or use forced ventilation, but it
> certainly
> > will discolor clothing if splashed on.  Also works great on OD throttle
> > switches!  Now, if only someone made a home black oxide process...
> > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> >

Doug,

Eastwood offers a black oxide kit.  I bought one, but haven't tried it out yet. 
 Have been pleased with the zinc plating kit.


Bob Haskell
'60 AH BT-7 MkI
'64 Mini Cooper S RHD
'80 MGB LE
bhaskell@iquest.net
SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice

From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:17:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Congrats Aussies

Yeah I must say I have been a very proud Aussie and have also 
suffered from some late nights watching the events.

It has been interesting to see the angle the US commentary places on 
our portrayal, but overall I think we came out in a great light .. 
and 4th medal count for a population smaller than LA!! That is 
impressive.

On Ya Aussies!

Rohan
BN4

At 7:25 PM -0400 10/2/00, Keith Pennell wrote:
>Rohan, et.al.
>
>I doubt any of you guys had a lot to do with it, but I just had to express
>this comment.
>
>I have spent many hours during the past 2 weeks watching the Olympics on the
>tube.  I must say that I was extremely impressed with the way the games went
>in Sydney.  It all seemed to flow well, opening and closing ceremonies
>excellent, the sights were wonderful, and NBC did a super job of
>broadcasting.
>
>Congrats, Aussies!  The best Olympics yet!
>
>Keith Pennell
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rohan Marr <rohan@marketocracy.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 5:43 PM
>Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
>
>>
>>  Not that it really matters but it is Law in Australia and you will be
>  > fined for sitting in the middle (since we are on the other side of
>  > the road there) lane.


From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:43:58 -0400
Subject: Rear Main Seal

Hi all:
Has anyone installed the rear main seal kit on a 4 cyl. Healey?  I see Moss
has a kit on page 69 of there latest catalog which is in the section for
100-6 & 3000 engine parts.  I'm guessing this kit is for the six and not the
four since I don't see any under the 4 cyl section.  Hemphill has a 4 cyl
kit; the only note in his catalog "engine removed".  I'm under the
impression that one type of installation requires machining, of what I don't
recall.  TIA
lance
54 bn1


From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:01:43 EDT
Subject: Re: "Rocks" Show Rocked...

In a message dated 10/01/2000 6:26:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bkrueger@ici.net writes:

<< So Ed,  did you meet up with Neil Cotty? >>
    
Well, Bud, a resounding YEP !!!  I have not seen a reference to same so here 
goes.

Neil called on Sat (and e-mailed).  Could NOT make it happen.  Sunday saw me 
STUCK with a prospect that wants a TD and a PA ground up'd.  SIX (6) hours!!!
I thought I was gonna DIE !!!  And I am SURE he ain't go "go for it" so I am 
just flat out the time.  Does not even belong to ANY Club!!!

As List noted, Neil and Sonya had not only arrived in Chi Town, but met up 
with our own Barney Gaylord and son Elliot on Sat.

Sun.:  Neil called and then his cell phone promptly DIED.  Called Barney, and 
all four of us finally got together enough to meet for dinner as Neil, Sonya, 
Barney, & Elliot were at Barney's place (with me being between them and Chi 
where they where staying) and we decided to meet a tad towards the "middle" 
of the Barney's to hotel return route.

The I called our "famous MGDriver Editor [Kim Tonrey]" and the "infamous 
Thomas Pokrefke, III" whom where my quickest "contacts" so that they might 
join us.  TP, 3, NAH !! (Lame A*S!).
Kim, absolutely.  Pictures forthcoming (upon our LATE departure<G>).

Now, the absolute "truth" must be presented for you consideration.

The ubiquitous Mr. Cotty should have stayed DownUnder.  
HOWEVER, his "agent", Ms. Sonya, MORE THAN MADE UP FOR his being there 
(and/or here<G>).
The ubiquitous Mr. Cotty had LaBatz in pintS.

I do believe a good time was had by all (except the restaurant folks who 
wanted to go home) and speaking for myself, had a GREAT TIME.

Drawbacks where as follows:  Elliot can eat 20 times his weight in french 
fries.  The "Agent" was gonna have a "diet cola" (WASTE of time, IMHO!!!) but 
I did manage to change her choice to Chardonnay.  Evening started WAY to late 
and ended WAY to soon!!  PERIOD!!

For any of you folks that can remotely even THINK of getting to the NYC area 
- do your very level best to hook up with them !!!

For anybody near the Dublin, Ireland area - WATCH OUT !!!!!  They are on 
their way !!!

Felling VERY fortunate to have met Neil and Sonya, I am

         Just Ed

PS:  Neil & Sonya, please try to do a "reverse" trip when you return to 
DownUnder.

From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 20:25:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Maybe, it's intentional!!!
                                              HoYo

ray feehan wrote:

> Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the word
> spellcheck strike a bell? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DMMax@aol.com>
> To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
> Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
> > Ray...
> > Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
> "drive
> > on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane is
> for
> > traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law ! If
> > people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
> >
> > Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane are
> > perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the cause of
> > bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe space
> and
> > the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER .... and
> use
> > your blinker while doing it.
> >
> > David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
> >
> > PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't speeding
> > related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with this.
> > If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
> >
> > Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed traps?
> > Aren't they there to ensure that
> > everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> > dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're the
> > ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
> abiding
> > drivers
> >


From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:30:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Sniff, sniff


In a message dated 10/2/00 12:18:00 PM, Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com writes:

<<
Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should be
possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
anyone built one and would care to share their results? >>

Adnan,

This subject gets kicked around on the Spridget List every so often.  The 
"Little Healey" folks seem to be more adventurous with trying new technology 
for performance improvements than the Big Healeyers.  Here's one site that's 
a good reference: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/airfuel.html.  Also 
search the Spridget archives at: 
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=spridgets
for some more approaches.

Happy Healeying,
Rick

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:45:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Bob,
I've been very pleased with the Eastwood zinc kit, too -- I think I'm
on my tenth anode now.  I believe what Eastwood sells for black oxide is
basically a cold blueing process, which gives a real nice gunmetal finish.
I'm not a chemist, but I think the original black oxide process, as seen on
Healey engine hardware, some tools, etc., involved immersing your bits in a
nasty heated (around 280 degrees) caustic solution that the EPA nowadays
protects us from.  The "hot" black oxiding renders a somewhat tougher finish
than the "cold" but "cold" is all that's available for amateur use.
http://www.finishing.com/0800-0999/854.html has some discussion on this.

The cold blueing looks fine, it's just not as black, durable, or rough as
the hot black oxide.  However, settling for the cold process sure beats
poisoning yourself.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Haskell <bhaskell@iquest.net>
To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long


> "Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> > To: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
> > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:57 PM
> > Subject: Re: Plating Parts- long
> >
> > > Rich,
> > > That stuff is not as noxious as Eastwood lets on.  I have never found
it
> > > necessary to wear rubber gloves or use forced ventilation, but it
> > certainly
> > > will discolor clothing if splashed on.  Also works great on OD
throttle
> > > switches!  Now, if only someone made a home black oxide process...
> > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> > >
>
> Doug,
>
> Eastwood offers a black oxide kit.  I bought one, but haven't tried it out
yet.  Have been pleased with the zinc plating kit.
>
>
> Bob Haskell
> '60 AH BT-7 MkI
> '64 Mini Cooper S RHD
> '80 MGB LE
> bhaskell@iquest.net
> SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice


From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:06:00 +1100 
Subject: Re: Congrats Aussies

G'day

Having just returned from a ticker tape parade through the streets of Sydney
for the Aussie Olympic Team, what more can I say except for:-

Aussie!  Aussie!  Aussie!
Oi!  Oi!  Oi!

It is nice to know that Allan Whitehouse who owns a BJ7 and BJ8 is part of
SOCOG, the Sydney Olympics organising Group.

Regards

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1

>>> Rohan Marr 3/10/00 11:17:53 >>>

Yeah I must say I have been a very proud Aussie and have also 
suffered from some late nights watching the events.

It has been interesting to see the angle the US commentary places on 
our portrayal, but overall I think we came out in a great light .. 
and 4th medal count for a population smaller than LA!! That is 
impressive.

On Ya Aussies!

Rohan
BN4

At 7:25 PM -0400 10/2/00, Keith Pennell wrote:
>Rohan, et.al.
>
>I doubt any of you guys had a lot to do with it, but I just had to express
>this comment.
>
>I have spent many hours during the past 2 weeks watching the Olympics on
the
>tube.  I must say that I was extremely impressed with the way the games
went
>in Sydney.  It all seemed to flow well, opening and closing ceremonies
>excellent, the sights were wonderful, and NBC did a super job of
>broadcasting.
>
>Congrats, Aussies!  The best Olympics yet!
>
>Keith Pennell
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rohan Marr <rohan@marketocracy.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 5:43 PM
>Subject: RE: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
>
>>
>>  Not that it really matters but it is Law in Australia and you will be
>  > fined for sitting in the middle (since we are on the other side of
>  > the road there) lane.


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:43:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Gee, ya think? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "howard young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Cc: <DMMax@aol.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")


> Maybe, it's intentional!!!
>                                               HoYo
>
> ray feehan wrote:
>
> > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the
word
> > spellcheck strike a bell? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <DMMax@aol.com>
> > To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
> > Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")
> >
> > > Ray...
> > > Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
> > "drive
> > > on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane
is
> > for
> > > traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law
! If
> > > people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
> > >
> > > Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane
are
> > > perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the
cause of
> > > bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe
space
> > and
> > > the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER ....
and
> > use
> > > your blinker while doing it.
> > >
> > > David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
> > >
> > > PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
speeding
> > > related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with
this.
> > > If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
> > >
> > > Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
traps?
> > > Aren't they there to ensure that
> > > everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> > > dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're
the
> > > ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
> > abiding
> > > drivers
> > >
>
>


From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 21:49:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

Yeah, most
pro'lly.............................................................HoYo

ray feehan wrote:

> Gee, ya think? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "howard young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> Cc: <DMMax@aol.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")
>
> > Maybe, it's intentional!!!
> >                                               HoYo
> >
> > ray feehan wrote:
> >
> > > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the
> word
> > > spellcheck strike a bell? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <DMMax@aol.com>
> > > To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
> > > Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")
> > >
> > > > Ray...
> > > > Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever heard
> > > "drive
> > > > on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right lane
> is
> > > for
> > > > traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the law
> ! If
> > > > people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
> > > >
> > > > Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left lane
> are
> > > > perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the
> cause of
> > > > bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of  safe
> space
> > > and
> > > > the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER ....
> and
> > > use
> > > > your blinker while doing it.
> > > >
> > > > David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
> > > >
> > > > PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
> speeding
> > > > related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do with
> this.
> > > > If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
> > > >
> > > > Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> traps?
> > > > Aren't they there to ensure that
> > > > everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The truly
> > > > dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits. They're
> the
> > > > ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger law
> > > abiding
> > > > drivers
> > > >
> >
> >


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:31:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")

I'm crushed. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "howard young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Cc: <DMMax@aol.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")


>
> Yeah, most
> pro'lly.............................................................HoYo
>
> ray feehan wrote:
>
> > Gee, ya think? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "howard young" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
> > To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > Cc: <DMMax@aol.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Left is for passing (was "Average")
> >
> > > Maybe, it's intentional!!!
> > >                                               HoYo
> > >
> > > ray feehan wrote:
> > >
> > > > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the
> > word
> > > > spellcheck strike a bell? RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <DMMax@aol.com>
> > > > To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <rsdslp@juno.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:03 AM
> > > > Subject: Left is for passing (was "Average")
> > > >
> > > > > Ray...
> > > > > Frequent lane changes are part of good driving. Haven't you ever
heard
> > > > "drive
> > > > > on the right, pass on the left. Here in North America, the right
lane
> > is
> > > > for
> > > > > traveling and the left lane is for PASSING. This is generally the
law
> > ! If
> > > > > people just remembered this, roads would be a much safer place.
> > > > >
> > > > > Citizen Speedlaw Enforcers and nin-com-poops blocking the left
lane
> > are
> > > > > perhaps the most serious hazard on the road. These morons are the
> > cause of
> > > > > bottlenecks. Speed doesn't kill. Hitting stuff kills. Lack of
safe
> > space
> > > > and
> > > > > the people that cause it is what kills. SPEED UP AND MOVE OVER
....
> > and
> > > > use
> > > > > your blinker while doing it.
> > > > >
> > > > > David Maxwell ....and the well named Mrs. Peel !!!
> > > > >
> > > > > PS: If cops enforced the 9/10's of the driving laws that weren't
> > speeding
> > > > > related, we'd all be much safer. Speed traps have nothing to do
with
> > this.
> > > > > If you can't handle the heat in the kitchen, TAKE A TRAIN !!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> > traps?
> > > > > Aren't they there to ensure that
> > > > > everybody drives safely in accordance with road conditions? The
truly
> > > > > dangerous drivers are the ones who set their own speed limits.
They're
> > the
> > > > > ones who take chances, make frequent lane changes, and endanger
law
> > > > abiding
> > > > > drivers
> > > > >
> > >
> > >
>
>


From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 05:05:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Mr. Finespanner wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> I've been very pleased with the Eastwood zinc kit, too -- I think I'm
> on my tenth anode now.  I believe what Eastwood sells for black oxide is
> basically a cold blueing process, which gives a real nice gunmetal finish.
> I'm not a chemist, but I think the original black oxide process, as seen on
> Healey engine hardware, some tools, etc., involved immersing your bits in a
> nasty heated (around 280 degrees) caustic solution that the EPA nowadays
> protects us from.  The "hot" black oxiding renders a somewhat tougher finish
> than the "cold" but "cold" is all that's available for amateur use.
> http://www.finishing.com/0800-0999/854.html has some discussion on this.
> 
> The cold blueing looks fine, it's just not as black, durable, or rough as
> the hot black oxide.  However, settling for the cold process sure beats
> poisoning yourself.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> 
Doug, I spoke with a gun repair person an he informed me to use a
different bluing process.  I was trying to get a black coating on the
six bolts that go through the aluminum spacers and hold on the steering
box and idler.  I was told to heat the bolts in the oven (can't remember
on what heat or for how long) and then brush on the blueing and repeat
the process three times.  The finish came out very nice and dark.  He
noted that the more times you do the process, the darker the parts will
become.  If you are looking to do this process, maybe check with a local
gun repair shop or try heating the parts in the oven before using the
Eastwood setup.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
1956 BN2

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:53:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Ward,
Thanks for the tip!  I've noticed that the softer the metal, the darker the
finish, so heating for a darker finish would certainly be logical.  I have
been using the Birchwood Casey Super Blue as well as the Caswell
blackening system, and will try both with hot parts.  Did your gun person
say anything about fumes from blueing hot metal?
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks


From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:54:38 -0400
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified



----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: frogeye <frogeye@gateway.net>; RL Chrysler
<lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified


>
> Dave,
>
> Appreciate the discussion on the spoke loads.  But how do spokes push?
The
> spoke nuts have no shoulder to exert a load against the rim, so how do
they
> exert a push against the rim?
>
> Keith
> The
> > tighter spokes are "pulling" and the looser are "pushing" So, the
pulling
> > spokes stretch and become longerand the pushing spokes compress and
become
> > shorter. Thus, the rim bulges inward at the pulling spokes and bulges
> > outward at the pushing spokes, and then there is the rim deformation at
> the
> > contact patch and the lateral load changes imparted by directional
> changes.
> > yada,yada...
>
>


From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:56:11 EDT
Subject: Left lane is Subliminal

 Ray... So sorry. I've gotten over excited by Dubbaya Bushes recent 
advertising campaign. All of a sudden "subliminable" stuff is "in".

ray feehan wrote:
> > > > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does  the
> > word
> > > > spellcheck strike a bell?

 Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> > traps?

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:03:41 -0600
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified

Keith,
 "They do not push in the usual sense because they are wires and they are
not in compression. Torque causes changes in spoke tension that appear as
waves in the rim, the pulling spokes pull the rim inward and the pushing
spokes push the rim outwards. because they are tangent to the rim but point
in opposite directions, they must pull and push to produce torque in the
same direction..."
 You can deduce from looking at a wheel and it's direction of rotation which
spokes "pull" and which ones "push"
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>; "RL Chrysler"
<lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified


> Dave,
>
> Appreciate the discussion on the spoke loads.  But how do spokes push?
The
> spoke nuts have no shoulder to exert a load against the rim, so how do
they
> exert a push against the rim?
>
> Keith
> The
> > tighter spokes are "pulling" and the looser are "pushing" So, the
pulling
> > spokes stretch and become longerand the pushing spokes compress and
become
> > shorter. Thus, the rim bulges inward at the pulling spokes and bulges
> > outward at the pushing spokes, and then there is the rim deformation at
> the
> > contact patch and the lateral load changes imparted by directional
> changes.
> > yada,yada...
>
>
>


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:07:02 -0700 
Subject: RE: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)

Is there actually a BN7 register?  I know that there were very few built yet
it seems that many of the listers have them.  Mine also suffers from VIN #
wierdness so I would be interested to see who has cars and what their
chassis numbers are.

Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Another plug for the BJ8 registry



Hello, Healeyphiles!

I was at the "Autumn in the Mountains" British car event in Flat Rock, NC
this past weekend.  There was a dark blue BJ8 there that had lost its VIN
plate and was at some point re-registered with a substitute Florida DMV
number.  Using the body number that was still there and the information on
body numbers of other cars listed in the BJ8 registry, I was able to
identify the car as a very, very late BJ8.  That was enough to convince the
owner to pull the right front wheel and examine the number stamped on the
shock tower (which he didn't know about).   This was the 85th car from the
very end of production, HBJ8L/42941.  Now the owner can do with that
information whatever he wants.  The car is for sale, by the way.

The point is, having the details of a lot of cars collected in one place can
be very helpful at times.   When last I wrote about the registry a few
months ago, the number of cars included had just passed 3,542 (20% of total
original production).  The number is now at 3,625.  Anyone who has not
contributed the details on their BJ8 to the registry is cordially invited to
do so.

We now return you to our regularly-scheduled e-mail traffic.

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA



From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:36:42 -0400 
Subject: RE: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)

I was going to ask the same thing...  for anyone interested here are the
numbers on mine..

        Car/Chassis Number      H-BN7-L/11282
        Engine Number           29D-RU-H/20400
        Body Number                     11490
        Spec.                           LHD, North American export
        Date Built                      8-9 August 1960
        Date despatched         15 August 1960
        Destination                     New York

        Steve Kocik
        1961 BN7 MK I two-seater (2 carbs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Lane, Jonathan [mailto:lanej@mossmotors.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:07 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)



Is there actually a BN7 register?  I know that there were very few built yet
it seems that many of the listers have them.  Mine also suffers from VIN #
wierdness so I would be interested to see who has cars and what their
chassis numbers are.

Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:23 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Another plug for the BJ8 registry



Hello, Healeyphiles!

I was at the "Autumn in the Mountains" British car event in Flat Rock, NC
this past weekend.  There was a dark blue BJ8 there that had lost its VIN
plate and was at some point re-registered with a substitute Florida DMV
number.  Using the body number that was still there and the information on
body numbers of other cars listed in the BJ8 registry, I was able to
identify the car as a very, very late BJ8.  That was enough to convince the
owner to pull the right front wheel and examine the number stamped on the
shock tower (which he didn't know about).   This was the 85th car from the
very end of production, HBJ8L/42941.  Now the owner can do with that
information whatever he wants.  The car is for sale, by the way.

The point is, having the details of a lot of cars collected in one place can
be very helpful at times.   When last I wrote about the registry a few
months ago, the number of cars included had just passed 3,542 (20% of total
original production).  The number is now at 3,625.  Anyone who has not
contributed the details on their BJ8 to the registry is cordially invited to
do so.

We now return you to our regularly-scheduled e-mail traffic.

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA


From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:48:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Sniff, sniff


>Given that an O2 sensor costs between $50 - $80, it sounds like it should be
>possible to make an air/fuel ratio meter for a very reasonable cost.   Has
>anyone built one and would care to share their results? >>
>
I recently purchased a heated O2 sensor (three wire leads instead of one)
from Holley.part number 43-106.  Price was $60 from my dealer.  It came
with a OEM type pigtail so I had to buy the matching Delco pigtail for
another $18 (rip-off).  A weld ring for the O2 sensor is part number 534-49
for $5. if you want to install permanently instead of up the exhaust tip.

Best regards,

Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, Texas


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:57:00 -0400
Subject: King Pin Kits

Folks,

        I'm going to be rebuilding the front end of my 59 BT7 and am 
looking at King Pin kits that are out on the market.  I have been offered 
fair prices on a king pin and trunnion kit by Quinten Hazel and a kit my 
Westen.  Has anyone had issues with either kit or like one better than the 
other?

   Also, is this a job a shade tree mechanic can do in the comfort of his 
garage?

Mike B
59 BT7

From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:52:28 +0000
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified

Yes, yes and yes. I'm very impressed. But what does it all mean?
----------
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
>To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>, "RL Chrysler"
<lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified
>Date: Tue, Oct 3, 2000, 2:03 PM
>

>
> Keith,
>  "They do not push in the usual sense because they are wires and they are
> not in compression. Torque causes changes in spoke tension that appear as
> waves in the rim, the pulling spokes pull the rim inward and the pushing
> spokes push the rim outwards. because they are tangent to the rim but point
> in opposite directions, they must pull and push to produce torque in the
> same direction..."
>  You can deduce from looking at a wheel and it's direction of rotation which
> spokes "pull" and which ones "push"
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> 59 AH :{)  54 BN1


From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:15:37 -0600
Subject: Re: everything you'ver never wanted to know...simplified


It means s--- happens to wire wheels.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146



From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:35:50 -0500
Subject: BN7 Registry.  

Mine is a 62 MKII 3000 BN7
HBN7L/18443  Eng. # 29E/RU/H5073

2 seat triple carburetor.  One of 355 made.

Don
BN7 "The Old Red Devil"


From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 11:40:56 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

In a message dated 10/03/2000 10:39:17 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dyarber@dynasty.net writes:

<< One of 355 made. >>

And there is one in Central, IL, Don.

Ed

From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:40:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)

Here is the info on my BN7:

car/chassis number   H-BN7-L/15476
engine number          29E-RU-H/1804
body number            13899
built                         19-20 September 1961
dispatched                4 October 1961 
destination                Los Angeles, CA

This is a tri-carb, 2 seater, currently undergoing a full restoration. 
Chassis is driveable, and was at the West Coast Meet in Ocean Shores, WA
this July.

John Snyder

----------
> From: Lane, Jonathan <lanej@mossmotors.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)
> Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:07 AM
> 
> 
> Is there actually a BN7 register?  I know that there were very few built
yet
> it seems that many of the listers have them.  Mine also suffers from VIN
#
> wierdness so I would be interested to see who has cars and what their
> chassis numbers are.
> 
> Jonathan Lane
> '60 BN7.
> 


From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 08:48:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Another plug for the BJ8 registry (what about BN7?)

Jonathan, 
I am not aware of a BN7 registry. I know of a few that
can be added to the listing.  My vin is HBN7L8340
(1960).  How does one get started and what data
elements are usually maintained?
Dean

--- "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com> wrote:
> 
> Is there actually a BN7 register?  I know that there
> were very few built yet
> it seems that many of the listers have them.  Mine
> also suffers from VIN #
> wierdness so I would be interested to see who has
> cars and what their
> chassis numbers are.
> 
> Jonathan Lane
> '60 BN7.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:23 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Another plug for the BJ8 registry
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
> 
> I was at the "Autumn in the Mountains" British car
> event in Flat Rock, NC
> this past weekend.  There was a dark blue BJ8 there
> that had lost its VIN
> plate and was at some point re-registered with a
> substitute Florida DMV
> number.  Using the body number that was still there
> and the information on
> body numbers of other cars listed in the BJ8
> registry, I was able to
> identify the car as a very, very late BJ8.  That was
> enough to convince the
> owner to pull the right front wheel and examine the
> number stamped on the
> shock tower (which he didn't know about).   This was
> the 85th car from the
> very end of production, HBJ8L/42941.  Now the owner
> can do with that
> information whatever he wants.  The car is for sale,
> by the way.
> 
> The point is, having the details of a lot of cars
> collected in one place can
> be very helpful at times.   When last I wrote about
> the registry a few
> months ago, the number of cars included had just
> passed 3,542 (20% of total
> original production).  The number is now at 3,625. 
> Anyone who has not
> contributed the details on their BJ8 to the registry
> is cordially invited to
> do so.
> 
> We now return you to our regularly-scheduled e-mail
> traffic.
> 
> Happy Healeying!
> 
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:30:17 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

Yes there is a BN-7 registry and presently no on is maintaing it, Bill Bolton 
does the BN-7 Tri-Carb...any volunteers? Please contact me if interested.

John S. Hunt
Nash Healey Registry

From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:38:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry

Bill Bolton <tricarb@aol.com> has been keeping a registry of TRI-CARB BN7s
and BT7s for many years.  Anyone with a tri-carb -- whether BN7 or BT7 --
should contact Bill.  He has lots of cars registered.

For those with "bi-carb" BN7s there is no active registry in the USA, so far
as I know.  There is a registry in England for the 3000 (so-called "Mark I",
both BN7 and BT7), and although they will take your information, it is
really oriented more towards the UK only.  I'm not sure how active it is
these days.

For a list of all "active" Healey-related registries in the USA (again, so
far as I know), see:
http://www.healey.org/other-registries.shtml

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org













_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:58:31 -0500 
Subject: 62 BT7 Mk 2

Dear Bill,  I just now heard that you were keeping a registry for all
tri-carbs.  Is that right??  I am the original (and only) owner of
HBT7L17350 for these many years.  Sorry, I was younger then and didn't see
the importance of keeping up with any documentation to affirm being the
original owner.  Is my word on it good enough??  If you really are keeping
up a registry, please let me know and I'll be very happy to furnish all the
information you need.

Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas

From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:19:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

John,
Are you saying that there are two registries, one for
the tri-carb and a general BN7 registry?  And is it
the BN7 general registry that needs an owner?  
I may be interested.... 
Thanks
Dean

--- JH67HEALEY@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Yes there is a BN-7 registry and presently no on is
> maintaing it, Bill Bolton 
> does the BN-7 Tri-Carb...any volunteers? Please
> contact me if interested.
> 
> John S. Hunt
> Nash Healey Registry


__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:47:31 -0400
Subject: Re: King Pin Kits

Mike.
Quinton Hazell is the original supplier of Healey king pin sets, so I would
recommend them over someone else.  You may be able to get your old bushings
out and the new ones fitted in your garage if you have the right equipment,
but the new bushings need to be reamed in line in order to fit the kingpins,
which calls for a Healey specialist or a machine shop.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: King Pin Kits


>
> Folks,
>
>         I'm going to be rebuilding the front end of my 59 BT7 and am
> looking at King Pin kits that are out on the market.  I have been offered
> fair prices on a king pin and trunnion kit by Quinten Hazel and a kit my
> Westen.  Has anyone had issues with either kit or like one better than the
> other?
>
>    Also, is this a job a shade tree mechanic can do in the comfort of his
> garage?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:50:22 -0400
Subject: Registries

I am very happy that the latest post about the BJ8 registry generated so
many responses, even though most of them concern BN7s.  I believe that
collecting and preserving the details and history of as many Healeys as
possible, of all models, is a good thing for the marque and can be a
valuable resource for owners.

Reid has already given the URL of the AHCUSA site that identifies the
keepers of the various registries.  Another site would be
http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm, which does identify the BN7/BT7-I
registrar.


As far as I know, the specific information collected for each model and how
active the registrar is in collecting the data is pretty much up to the
keeper of that registry.


Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC


From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:23:14 -0600
Subject: Fw: Fw: 1959 Bugeye for sale-still


Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque 
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sam Bagby" <sbagby@swcp.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: 1959 Bugeye for sale-still


> Dave, could you forward this to the list? I would much appreciate it.
> 
> Sam
> 
> 
> Would like to sell my BN6. Car has been fitted with BT7 drive train
> including disc brakes, etc,
> 
> Rust repaired, engine rebuilt, new interior, paint, tires, wheels, hubs,
> top, tonneau, top frame, bow, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc,.
> 
> Looks and runs great! Located in Albuquerque, NM
> 
> Also have a new set of mini lites with 205 Yoko's that could be available
> separate from the car. Approximately 200 miles on them.
> 
> Contact me off the list if you would like more info.
> 
> 
> Sam Bagby
> sbagby@swcp.com
> ssbagby@msn.com
> 
> Daytime - 1-800-637-0211 or 1-800-637-8143 after 10-8-00
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> 


From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 16:54:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Registries - long

    I have wanted to comment to the list about registries for a while, and I
know they have been discussed before.

    In addition to owning two Austin Healeys, I also own two AC's.  One is an
Ace, and the other is an Aceca Bristol.  The AC Owners Club had a very
interesting way of maintaining and distributing the information about the
surviving cars.  There is a listing for each model that is published and
distributed about every two years.  (Not all at the same time)
    Owners submit the information about the cars such as colours, chassis #,
engine #, accessories, etc.  All of the vehicles are listed numerically by
chassis number.  It is possible to see the gaps and establish the order of
production and find the names of people who own cars close to yours in
production.  The listing of the cars of a specific model is more important than
grouping the owners from a particular geographical region of club.   They start
with knowing all of the numbers built, and report all of those that are found
or remaining.  Who owns them is recorded, but it is not listed first.  It is a
great approach.  Many other facts come from this as well.  Only 40% of AC Aces
built with the AC engine, still have the original engine for example.
    The information for the ACOC registrars is very international and there is
only one club collecting it.
    I know in the past that some people feel insecure about having their car
listed for an international car ring to steal it.  The converse is true.  If
someone were to turn up with my stolen car it has a better chance of getting
back to me if the chassis and engine number are public knowledge.
    At the same time, I don't know why there is so much guarding of
information.  Production and sales data listings should be more accessible to
collectors rather than paying $35 for a peek at one car's factory info.  I hope
this doesn't rub anyone the wrong way.  I am just is intended to start
reflection.   I am going to Hershey tomorrow morning, but I look forward to
others commenting on a chassis listing format.

Blair Harber
Chassis BN1L 134373
Chassis BN1L 138031

Steve Byers wrote:

> I am very happy that the latest post about the BJ8 registry generated so
> many responses, even though most of them concern BN7s.  I believe that
> collecting and preserving the details and history of as many Healeys as
> possible, of all models, is a good thing for the marque and can be a
> valuable resource for owners.
>
> Reid has already given the URL of the AHCUSA site that identifies the
> keepers of the various registries.  Another site would be
> http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm, which does identify the BN7/BT7-I
> registrar.
>
> As far as I know, the specific information collected for each model and how
> active the registrar is in collecting the data is pretty much up to the
> keeper of that registry.
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:09:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Left lane is Subliminal

Thank God he's running for election in your country. All Canadian
politicians are as honest as the days are long. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
Cc: <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Left lane is Subliminal


> Ray... So sorry. I've gotten over excited by Dubbaya Bushes recent
> advertising campaign. All of a sudden "subliminable" stuff is "in".
>
> ray feehan wrote:
> > > > > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does
the
> > > word
> > > > > spellcheck strike a bell?
>
>  Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> > > traps?
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:14:03 -0600
Subject: Re: King Pin Kits

Reaming out the bushes is pretty tricky. I did my own by hand with a reamer
I borrowed from a friend ( yes I have one ) who worked for Rolls Royce. They
weren't bad but I recommend having a machine shop do them.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 8:57 AM
Subject: King Pin Kits


>
> Folks,
>
>         I'm going to be rebuilding the front end of my 59 BT7 and am
> looking at King Pin kits that are out on the market.  I have been offered
> fair prices on a king pin and trunnion kit by Quinten Hazel and a kit my
> Westen.  Has anyone had issues with either kit or like one better than the
> other?
>
>    Also, is this a job a shade tree mechanic can do in the comfort of his
> garage?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7
>


From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:26:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Left lane is Subliminal

Ray.... you take a punch as well as anybody. 

Cheers Buddy,   
David Maxwell ... and the incomparable Mrs. Peel

From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 17:40:08 -0400
Subject: Re: King Pin Kits

Mike and all,

Although reaming the bushes independently can make them the same diameter, using
the correct pair of original reamers which use the other bush for alignment is
far superior in that it will accomodate slight misalignments of the bores..
We do exchange units using original reamers if anyone is is interested, but I
realize that shipping cores across the border to Canada can be a pain.
You can check out the prices on our web site.
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


ray feehan wrote:

> Reaming out the bushes is pretty tricky. I did my own by hand with a reamer
> I borrowed from a friend ( yes I have one ) who worked for Rolls Royce. They
> weren't bad but I recommend having a machine shop do them.
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 8:57 AM
> Subject: King Pin Kits
>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> >         I'm going to be rebuilding the front end of my 59 BT7 and am
> > looking at King Pin kits that are out on the market.  I have been offered
> > fair prices on a king pin and trunnion kit by Quinten Hazel and a kit my
> > Westen.  Has anyone had issues with either kit or like one better than the
> > other?
> >
> >    Also, is this a job a shade tree mechanic can do in the comfort of his
> > garage?
> >
> > Mike B
> > 59 BT7
> >




From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 14:58:34 -0700 
Subject: RE: Left lane is Subliminal

Well... "Y" is next to "T" on the keyboard

-----Original Message-----
From: ray feehan [mailto:feehanr@cadvision.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:10 PM
To: DMMax@aol.com; hoyo@bellsouth.net
Cc: rsdslp@juno.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Left lane is Subliminal



Thank God he's running for election in your country. All Canadian
politicians are as honest as the days are long. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMMax@aol.com>
To: <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
Cc: <rsdslp@juno.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:56 AM
Subject: Left lane is Subliminal


> Ray... So sorry. I've gotten over excited by Dubbaya Bushes recent
> advertising campaign. All of a sudden "subliminable" stuff is "in".
>
> ray feehan wrote:
> > > > > Geez, that's the worst spelling of my name I've ever seen. Does
the
> > > word
> > > > > spellcheck strike a bell?
>
>  Rat Freehand recently wrote: "Hey Robert what's wrong with speed
> > > traps?
>

From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:16:28 -0700
Subject: Nailing that Healey color finally

A month or so ago there was a lengthy thread discussing the "correct" Healey
Blue color. Somebody, and I don't remember who, stated that Honda was
replicating that color almost exactly on its late model sedans.  I was
dubious of this as my wife drives a late model Honda with the ice blue color
and it isn't close to the color of my BJ8.
Today I spotted the color the poster was referring to and damn if it isn't
knat's ass on.  I called the Honda dealer and got the color name - it's
"Teal Ice" on their year 2000/2001 Civics.  Other than a bit too much metal
flake, the color is a dead ringer for the Healey Blue we all know and love
(you know, with the slight greenish hue in the sun).  I'm definitely going
to spec this color for my upcoming repaint.     Just thought you'd like to
know and thank the unknown poster for his insight.
Randy aka Coop




From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 18:44:12 EDT
Subject: 100-Six Registry

The amount of information saved by each register depends on their whims.  
There has been no format and some keep it on paper and others on a PC.
I have been doing it for AHCA for over 15 years, so therefore, mine has been 
on 3x5 cards.  I have never lost a record or had my system go down.  In fact, 
when the world of computers went from 5" floppys to the current system, I had 
no problems.  If I needed additional storage, instead of adding more memory, 
I just turned the card over and wrote on the back.
I only saved the owners 's name, address and phone number along with the 
car's serial number.  Only if the car was something unusual, did I record 
that too.  There was an effort by one 100-Six owner to start a newsletter, 
but that kinda petered out.
Over the years, I have received the lists from both the UK and Australia and 
added them to my lists.  My serial numbers cover more that the number of 
Sixes built as I believe they shared the numbers with the MGAs built along 
side.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Rudy Streng in North Carolina

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue,  3 Oct 2000 18:00:10 -0500
Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

The initial response to the first ever Tx Kooler reduced price special has been 
very gratifying.  Three cool purchasers have received a BONUS tx healey roundup 
shirt and we have one more some lucky buyer will receive.  Feeling lucky, bucky 
?

The BIG NEWS, however, is that all orders received between Friday Oct. 6 and 
postmarked no later than Oct 15 will have their name entered in a pot for a 
drawing for a total reimbursement of the Kooler special price.  The lucky 
individual will be announced as soon as possible after Oct. 20.  Mail will not 
be picked up again at the po box until 10-6-00.

What is the special price?  You have to go to the north tx ah club website to 
check it out.
www.ntahc.austin1.com  While your'e perusing around, scroll on down and take a 
look at the Healey Wings watch.  You talk about the time of your life !!  Still 
only $29.95
happy healeying,

your fans in north texas






From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:20:21 EDT
Subject: Tri Healey & SEC update

Check the NTAHC site <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/>for updated pics on the 
SEC plus a linked rally page. Rally drivers were required to carry floatation 
devices and snorkels because of all the rain.

Also added to NTAHC site are pictures of the Tri Healey hosted by Gateway AHC 
in Kimberling City, MO

These pages are found in the "Past Events"

Our web master Tim Moran is doing a great job, sent pages to him and next 
morning they are up and running. They do take a little time to load with all 
the pictures.

While you are at site check the special on the "Texas Kooler".

If you have Tech Articles we have space, so send them to Tim or me.

Don Lenschow
NTAHC

From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:23:36 -0400
Subject: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.

Who is presently taking care of the Hundred Registry?
I have quite a bit of ser. no. info that should be documented, including
cars presently existing, and those that have most definetly "passed on".
Rich Chrysler


From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:41:20 -0400
Subject: Ring Gear

Hi all!
Anyone replace a flywheel ring gear on a bn1?  Does it have to be oriented
in certain position?  How did you remove the old one?  Tips or tricks would
be greatly appreciated.  TIA.
lance
54 bn1


From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:47:48 -0400
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

Is the adapter for a bn1 included in the cost of the fan?
lance
54bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:00 PM
Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE


>
> The initial response to the first ever Tx Kooler reduced price special has
been very gratifying.  Three cool purchasers have received a BONUS tx healey
roundup shirt and we have one more some lucky buyer will receive.  Feeling
lucky, bucky ?
>
> The BIG NEWS, however, is that all orders received between Friday Oct. 6
and postmarked no later than Oct 15 will have their name entered in a pot
for a drawing for a total reimbursement of the Kooler special price.  The
lucky individual will be announced as soon as possible after Oct. 20.  Mail
will not be picked up again at the po box until 10-6-00.
>
> What is the special price?  You have to go to the north tx ah club website
to check it out.
> www.ntahc.austin1.com  While your'e perusing around, scroll on down and
take a look at the Healey Wings watch.  You talk about the time of your life
!!  Still only $29.95
> happy healeying,
>
> your fans in north texas
>
>
>
>
>
>


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:06:14 -0400
Subject: Registries

The original format for the BJ8 registry that I received from AHCA when I
took it over two years ago was approximately 1200  3 x 5 cards, and it only
contained the VIN of the car and the name/address/phone number of the owner,
and all of the owners were members of AHCA.  It's true that there is no set
format, and that it is pretty much up to the individual registrar as to what
data is recorded.   Since most of the BJ8s in the world are owned by people
who are not members of AHCA, I decided to try to capture as many as possible
in the registry without regard to club membership of the owner.  It is
mostly e-mail that makes that possible.  Since then, and as of today, the
number of cars accounted for is 3,626.  Because of my participation in this
list for the last four years, I was exposed to the types of questions owners
ask that a registry could be of help to answer.   So, the data desired
expanded to include all of the information on the BMIHT certificate, as well
as some data about the current configuration of the cars and as much of the
individual ownership history as was still available.

AHCA requests identification of the cars from new members when they join,
and I receive periodic updates from the AHCA secretary as new members join
and other members sell their cars and report it.  The club is very helpful
that way.  The personal data collected, though, is sensitive and by AHCA
policy I can't release that information without the person's consent.
Therefore, I can't just publish the complete registry.  It is my belief,
however, that collecting data and not using it for the benefit of the BJ8
community is not a worthwhile thing to do.  I have been considering what
kind of information would be of interest to the list that could be gleaned
from the registry records.

I would like to invite anyone who has a statistical or other question about
BJ8s that might be answered by the registry data to send it to me.  I'll
collect them, research the database, and report the results of the questions
to the list.  I should say, though, that the registry is contained in an
Excel file which is searchable, but not completely sortable.    There are
good reasons for this, but it means that much of the sorting is manual so it
may take some time.

The fields in the BJ8 registry are:  VIN, Year of Registration, Exterior
Colo(u)r (original and current), Interior Colo(u)r (original and current),
City/State/Province/Country, Owner's name/address/phone/e-mail, and Remarks
(which contains all the other details, such as Body Number, Engine Number,
build date, despatch date, destination, etc.).  Of the 3,626 cars included,
the registry has a copy of the BMIHT certificate for about 10% of them.
That is the basic computerized registry.  There is another part that
consists of copies of documents that owners send me, such as titles, window
stickers, photographs, BMIHT certs, etc.  The registry provides a central
location to preserve that stuff for posterity for those who are interested
in doing so.  Too bad that wasn't done in the past.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC



-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: healeybn7@yahoo.com <healeybn7@yahoo.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 6:55 PM
Subject: 100-Six Registry


>
>The amount of information saved by each register depends on their whims.
>There has been no format and some keep it on paper and others on a PC.
>I have been doing it for AHCA for over 15 years, so therefore, mine has
been
>on 3x5 cards.  I have never lost a record or had my system go down.  In
fact,
>when the world of computers went from 5" floppys to the current system, I
had
>no problems.  If I needed additional storage, instead of adding more
memory,
>I just turned the card over and wrote on the back.
>I only saved the owners 's name, address and phone number along with the
>car's serial number.  Only if the car was something unusual, did I record
>that too.  There was an effort by one 100-Six owner to start a newsletter,
>but that kinda petered out.
>Over the years, I have received the lists from both the UK and Australia
and
>added them to my lists.  My serial numbers cover more that the number of
>Sixes built as I believe they shared the numbers with the MGAs built along
>side.
>Just my .02 cents worth.
>Rudy Streng in North Carolina


From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:08:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally

Randy

The "unknown poster" thanks you for the confirmation regarding the Honda light 
blue metallic.  If you go to your PPG or DuPont dealer and look through his 
chip books I think you will find that Honda has been using this color or an 
almost identical color through the '90s.

I also will advise you that there is a BMW color called Light Blue Metallic 
circa 1986-7-8 which is dead-on a match for Healey Blue.  My BT7 is painted 
with this BMW code and whenever I am at a meet people comment "Now That's the 
correct Healey Blue !" - to my amusement I might add.

The great advantage of using a modern paint like the Honda or the BMW is that 
it can be mixed in small quantities by any autopaint jobber and you can buy 
touch-up bottles and spray cans at any Pep Boys or equivalent.  Dupli-color 
produces their products starting about three years after introduction and 
maintains those colors in their inventories for twenty years or more.

DickB a/k/a "The Unknown Poster
'62 BT7 Tri-Carb

 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> A month or so ago there was a lengthy thread discussing the "correct" Healey
> Blue color. Somebody, and I don't remember who, stated that Honda was
> replicating that color almost exactly on its late model sedans.  I was
> dubious of this as my wife drives a late model Honda with the ice blue color
> and it isn't close to the color of my BJ8.
> Today I spotted the color the poster was referring to and damn if it isn't
> knat's ass on.  I called the Honda dealer and got the color name - it's
> "Teal Ice" on their year 2000/2001 Civics.  Other than a bit too much metal
> flake, the color is a dead ringer for the Healey Blue we all know and love
> (you know, with the slight greenish hue in the sun).  I'm definitely going
> to spec this color for my upcoming repaint.     Just thought you'd like to
> know and thank the unknown poster for his insight.
> Randy aka Coop
> 
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 22:12:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally


In a message dated 10/3/00 7:10:04 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:

<< The "unknown poster" thanks you for the confirmation regarding the Honda 
light blue metallic.  If you go to your PPG or DuPont dealer and look through 
his chip books I think you will find that Honda has been using this color or 
an almost identical color through the '90s.

I also will advise you that there is a BMW color called Light Blue Metallic 
circa 1986-7-8 which is dead-on a match for Healey Blue.  My BT7 is painted 
with this BMW code and whenever I am at a meet people comment "Now That's the 
correct Healey Blue !" - to my amusement I might add. >>

By logical rationcination, I conclude from your statements (i.e. Honda Teal 
metallic   Healey Blue and BMW Light Blue Metallic = Healey blue) that the 
Honda color and the BMW color must be exact matches for each other.  Is that 
really true?
Cheers
Gary

From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 19:51:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Main Seal

Lance, I just had the Denis Welch rear seal installed by a very good machinist.
Requires that the c rank be machined to give a surface for the seal and the rear
main has to be machined to give mounting surface.  Machinist told me that it was
a major project that many shops could not handle properly.  This is a guy that I
trust who has done much work for me in the past 15 years.  John

Lance Werner wrote:

> Hi all:
> Has anyone installed the rear main seal kit on a 4 cyl. Healey?  I see Moss
> has a kit on page 69 of there latest catalog which is in the section for
> 100-6 & 3000 engine parts.  I'm guessing this kit is for the six and not the
> four since I don't see any under the 4 cyl section.  Hemphill has a 4 cyl
> kit; the only note in his catalog "engine removed".  I'm under the
> impression that one type of installation requires machining, of what I don't
> recall.  TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1




From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:47:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Registries

Steve,
I am considering volunteering to manage the BN7
registry and I am grateful for the information.  And
the more involved I become the more questions I
have...  
Isn't the obvious approach to this activity to get an
electronic copy of all the BMIHT data then fill in the
owner information, note differences and publish the
listings without the personal information rather than
respond to individual user requests.  Seems like one
could build a simple web site that would allow all of
us to browse and draw our own conclusions - some data
would be private, some not. It appears that for a
great part of this activity we are all inventing what
already exists in different formats.

I can't believe that the $35 coping charge is a real
money maker for BMIHT.  I would guess that it just in
place to cover costs and perhaps they would release
the data in bulk just to get the individual requests
out of their hair?  Any thoughts?  Has any one asked?
Of course I am assuming that BMIHT has the data
electronically and it can be separated from the other
marks (maybe a big assumption).

Dean
   
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
>
> the registry has a copy of the BMIHT certificate for
> about 10% of them.

> 

__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed,  4 Oct 2000 00:10:40 -0500
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

NO, the adapter for 100's is an additional $38.50.
----- Original Message -----

From: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:47:48 -0400

Is the adapter for a bn1 included in the cost of the fan? 
lance 
54bn1 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> 
To: <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:00 PM 
Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE 
 
 
> 
> The initial response to the first ever Tx Kooler reduced price special has 
been very gratifying.  Three cool purchasers have received a BONUS tx healey 
roundup shirt and we have one more some lucky buyer will receive.  Feeling 
lucky, bucky ? 
> 
> The BIG NEWS, however, is that all orders received between Friday Oct. 6 
and postmarked no later than Oct 15 will have their name entered in a pot 
for a drawing for a total reimbursement of the Kooler special price.  The 
lucky individual will be announced as soon as possible after Oct. 20.  Mail 
will not be picked up again at the po box until 10-6-00. 
> 
> What is the special price?  You have to go to the north tx ah club website 
to check it out. 
> www.ntahc.austin1.com  While your'e perusing around, scroll on down and 
take a look at the Healey Wings watch.  You talk about the time of your life 
!!  Still only $29.95 
> happy healeying, 
> 
> your fans in north texas 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
 



From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 00:07:27 -0600
Subject: Re: King Pin Kits

Actually there's an exemption on car parts over 25 years old. No duty, just
general sales tax. So shipping shouldn't be a problem.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
Cc: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: King Pin Kits


> Mike and all,
>
> Although reaming the bushes independently can make them the same diameter,
using
> the correct pair of original reamers which use the other bush for
alignment is
> far superior in that it will accomodate slight misalignments of the
bores..
> We do exchange units using original reamers if anyone is is interested,
but I
> realize that shipping cores across the border to Canada can be a pain.
> You can check out the prices on our web site.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> ray feehan wrote:
>
> > Reaming out the bushes is pretty tricky. I did my own by hand with a
reamer
> > I borrowed from a friend ( yes I have one ) who worked for Rolls Royce.
They
> > weren't bad but I recommend having a machine shop do them.
> > RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "M Brouillette" <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 8:57 AM
> > Subject: King Pin Kits
> >
> > >
> > > Folks,
> > >
> > >         I'm going to be rebuilding the front end of my 59 BT7 and am
> > > looking at King Pin kits that are out on the market.  I have been
offered
> > > fair prices on a king pin and trunnion kit by Quinten Hazel and a kit
my
> > > Westen.  Has anyone had issues with either kit or like one better than
the
> > > other?
> > >
> > >    Also, is this a job a shade tree mechanic can do in the comfort of
his
> > > garage?
> > >
> > > Mike B
> > > 59 BT7
> > >
>
>
>
>


From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 06:09:46 -0400
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

I'd buy one if it was included with the fan!
lance 54 bn1

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE


>
> NO, the adapter for 100's is an additional $38.50.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net
> To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
> Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:47:48 -0400
>
> Is the adapter for a bn1 included in the cost of the fan?
> lance
> 54bn1
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:00 PM
> Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
>
>
> >
> > The initial response to the first ever Tx Kooler reduced price special
has
> been very gratifying.  Three cool purchasers have received a BONUS tx
healey
> roundup shirt and we have one more some lucky buyer will receive.  Feeling
> lucky, bucky ?
> >
> > The BIG NEWS, however, is that all orders received between Friday Oct. 6
> and postmarked no later than Oct 15 will have their name entered in a pot
> for a drawing for a total reimbursement of the Kooler special price.  The
> lucky individual will be announced as soon as possible after Oct. 20.
Mail
> will not be picked up again at the po box until 10-6-00.
> >
> > What is the special price?  You have to go to the north tx ah club
website
> to check it out.
> > www.ntahc.austin1.com  While your'e perusing around, scroll on down and
> take a look at the Healey Wings watch.  You talk about the time of your
life
> !!  Still only $29.95
> > happy healeying,
> >
> > your fans in north texas
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 12:11:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Hundred Registry / was BJ8 Registry, etc.


                UK 100 REGISTER

As many North American Owners know I run the UK 100 Register. Over the
last year or so many owners in the States and Canada have contacted me
because they tell me that there is very little activity going on in
their own country regarding 100 Registers.

As a result I have been sent around seventy 100 registrations over
recent times. We now have nearly 950 entries in our database with the
greatest increase recently coming from owners outside the UK.

So long as I am not "stepping on anybodies toes" I am very pleased to
receive further entries for our UK Register.

Our systems are very secure. We have a policy of not providing any
information to third parties without the permission of the owner and
this is enforced in UK law by the Data Protection Act.

We keep comprehensive information on a database which is duplicated and
backed up onto CDs stored away from home at regular intervals. 

We also keep photographs in paper or electronic format where owners are
prepared to send these to us.

There is an electronic Registration Form at 

        http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm

Owners are invited to use this if they feel inclined but if not it will
show owners what information we record against each car.

All the best


-- 
John Harper

From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 12:55:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Ring Gear

Lance
>
>Hi all!
>Anyone replace a flywheel ring gear on a bn1?  Does it have to be oriented
>in certain position?  

No not in terms of its rotational position. The old one can usually be
removed by drilling into a tooth route where the hardening is less and
then splitting the ring open with a hammer and chisel.

However the new gear will have to be heated before it can be fitted and
placed quickly into the correct position before it cools and "grips" in
the wrong position.

It might be best to use a specialist to carry out this work who will
have experience and also have appropriate heating and temperature
measuring facilities.

All the best

>How did you remove the old one?  Tips or tricks would
>be greatly appreciated.  TIA.
>lance
>54 bn1
>

-- 
John Harper

From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 4 Oct 2000 12:38:53 +0000
Subject: 62 BT7 MK2

Sorry to bomb the whole list. I would just like to pass a message to 
Jack Brashear, Little Rock. Do not have his e-mail-address.

Hi Jack,
I am the owner of HBT7L17530 which is very close to yours HBT7L17350. I miss
the batch number of my car (small aluminium label at bulkhead). Would you
please look at yours and send me your car´s batch-number. It should be the same
as mine, probably BT7 3092 ? There are no records of batch-numbers at BMIHT.
Looking forward for any reply, thank you very much for your help.
Josef Eckert, Germany, e-mail: josef.eckert@t-mobil.de
54 BN1, 62 BT7

From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 4 Oct 2000 12:59:53 +0000
Subject: 100/6-3000 Register

The Austin-Healey Club of England keeps an register of all four-cylinder and
another register of all six-cylinder Healeys 100/6 (100-Six or what ever you
want)-3000. Mell Ward - some may know her - keeps the database of the
100/6-3000 register, which is open worldwide. Besides her engagement in the
register she is very, very active in the European Healey Scene and is one of
those keeping the legend alive. Her e-mail is: russward@lineone.net or see
www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk
Josef Eckert, Germany
54 BN1, 62 BT 7

From njones at amadeus.net
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:16:41 +0200
Subject: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden developed a bad
starting problem.

It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its 1961
original coil.

I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch istead of
.025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
instead of the new 40,000 volts.

Is this correct ,can anyone help.

Thx in advance



From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 07:37:53 -0600
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

Lance,
 Perhaps a day or two in the other guy's shoes would help your logic.

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 4:09 AM
Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE


>
> I'd buy one if it was included with the fan!
> lance 54 bn1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 1:10 AM
> Subject: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
>
>
> >
> > NO, the adapter for 100's is an additional $38.50.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > From: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net
> > To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
> > Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 19:47:48 -0400
> >
> > Is the adapter for a bn1 included in the cost of the fan?
> > lance
> > 54bn1
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:00 PM
> > Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
> >
> >
> > >
> > > The initial response to the first ever Tx Kooler reduced price special
> has
> > been very gratifying.  Three cool purchasers have received a BONUS tx
> healey
> > roundup shirt and we have one more some lucky buyer will receive.
Feeling
> > lucky, bucky ?
> > >
> > > The BIG NEWS, however, is that all orders received between Friday Oct.
6
> > and postmarked no later than Oct 15 will have their name entered in a
pot
> > for a drawing for a total reimbursement of the Kooler special price.
The
> > lucky individual will be announced as soon as possible after Oct. 20.
> Mail
> > will not be picked up again at the po box until 10-6-00.
> > >
> > > What is the special price?  You have to go to the north tx ah club
> website
> > to check it out.
> > > www.ntahc.austin1.com  While your'e perusing around, scroll on down
and
> > take a look at the Healey Wings watch.  You talk about the time of your
> life
> > !!  Still only $29.95
> > > happy healeying,
> > >
> > > your fans in north texas
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>


From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 10:14:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and gapped my
plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000 volts.  The 
car
ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and .030,
apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.

njones@amadeus.net wrote:

> Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden developed a 
>bad
> starting problem.
>
> It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its 1961
> original coil.
>
> I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch istead of
> .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> instead of the new 40,000 volts.
>
> Is this correct ,can anyone help.
>
> Thx in advance


From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:37:40 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE


In a message dated 10/4/00 3:15:34 AM, brshwrks@bellatlantic.net wrote:

<<
I'd buy one if it was included with the fan!

>>

OK, that's just plain silly.

Darn near every time someone goes through the trouble of 
designing/building/getting easy access to some part that may help a Healey 
owner, they get a lot of pressure and even badmouthing just because so many 
Healey owners/lovers can't stand to spend a little money.
I work in marketing and understand the effects of this kind of talk in public.
right now (as before) it is looking there may another string on this list 
that is making the Texas club look bad just because they aren't "throwing in" 
the adapter (specially designed and built).
In this case, the whole list was posted in a question that should have not 
been asked at all "Does the adapter come with the fan?"
Then he follows up with an answer, posted to the whoile list. Why? So we know 
that an adapter would be extra? Most people of average intelligence can 
probably figure that they may need to cough up a bit more for another part 
(the adapter)

Rick
San Diego

From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 08:56:35 -0700 
Subject: RE: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

Hear! Hear!  The voice of reason!  Come on people, it's a $30 fan for your
$20,000 car.  Either kick down the $40 or design and machine one yourself.
I, for one, am happy to see clubs going to this extent to offer these things
to other Healey owners.  Hats off to the Texas Club.

Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7 

-----Original Message-----
From: WilKo@aol.com [mailto:WilKo@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 8:38 AM
To: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net; owner-healeys@autox.team.net;
jwbn6@iopener.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE




In a message dated 10/4/00 3:15:34 AM, brshwrks@bellatlantic.net wrote:

<<
I'd buy one if it was included with the fan!

>>

OK, that's just plain silly.

Darn near every time someone goes through the trouble of 
designing/building/getting easy access to some part that may help a Healey 
owner, they get a lot of pressure and even badmouthing just because so many 
Healey owners/lovers can't stand to spend a little money.
I work in marketing and understand the effects of this kind of talk in
public.
right now (as before) it is looking there may another string on this list 
that is making the Texas club look bad just because they aren't "throwing
in" 
the adapter (specially designed and built).
In this case, the whole list was posted in a question that should have not 
been asked at all "Does the adapter come with the fan?"
Then he follows up with an answer, posted to the whoile list. Why? So we
know 
that an adapter would be extra? Most people of average intelligence can 
probably figure that they may need to cough up a bit more for another part 
(the adapter)

Rick
San Diego

From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 12:54:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Rich, Doug and anyone interested in plating

I have been plating and blackening my own parts at home for the past six 
years with great results.  The best part is that I don't loose those hard to 
replace small parts that a large volume industrial plater sometimes will.  

I have found that the plating kits from "Caswell" to be superior tom those 
sold by "Eastwood" and I'm still on my original anode after all of these 
years.  I've used their "Copy Cad" system extensively which is actually a 
nickel process and not only looks great but gives better corrosion resistance 
than zinc, (real cadmium is too poisonous to use at home).  One point to 
consider is that zinc plating will need to be about three times thicker than 
cadmium to achieve the same corrosion resistance and the copy cad system 
gives similar results to real cadmium.  Caswell also has zinc, nickel, copper 
and chrome home plating systems and is supplied through Philip Brown of 
British Tools and Fasteners of Los Osos, CA.

As to blackening, the technique of using Birchwood Casey Gun Blueing works 
great.  I have done all of the original blackened fasteners on my BN1 plus my 
tools, one other tool kit and I'm about to do a third tool kit.  You cannot 
tell the difference between the blackening that I have done as compared to 
NOS fasteners or some of the very original tools in my kit.  In fact we 
compared my blackened tools to a fellow club members who had his done 
professionally and the only difference was that his cost more than four times 
as much.  There is however a technique required to achieve these results 
which I will attempt to explain... 

First of all follow the directions given on the label for the Birchwood Casey 
Gun Blueing which is a cold process.  Now the secret is that after the parts 
are nice and black and rinsed clean with cold water they will immediately 
"flash rust".  What I do next is to place the parts in a metal pan on a hot 
plate (low heat) and spray them with white lithium grease all over using a 
small acid brush to coat them all over with the grease and then let them cook 
for thirty minutes.  The grease will bake into the metal somewhat and when 
the parts have cooled all you do is wipe them clean with an old rag and 
toothbrush.  Do this in a well ventilated area and DO NOT let the grease get 
so hot that it starts to smoke!  Resulting parts are nothing less than 
fantastic.

As you can see there is no need to apply the gun bluing hot, which is not the 
recommended procedure of the manufacturer anyway.  There is a hot blueing 
process but once again I believe that it is poisonous and best left to 
professionals  All I can say is that this system was taught to me by a 
professional restorer in Los Angeles who has worked in a few of the better 
restoration shops.  Total cost of the gun blueing, hot plate, metal pan, 
lithium grease etc... was about $20.00 at any Wal-Mart store.

Cheers
 
Curt Arndt 
Carlsbad, CA

In a message dated 10/03/2000 6:56:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:

<< I have
 been using the Birchwood Casey Super Blue as well as the Caswell
 blackening system, and will try both with hot parts.  Did your gun person
 say anything about fumes from blueing hot metal? >>

From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 09:21:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to 30,
35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening the
gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be degraded....? I
thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?  Also,
is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap (gets
hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
To: <njones@amadeus.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>
> I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
gapped my
> plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000 volts.
The car
> ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
.030,
> apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
>
> njones@amadeus.net wrote:
>
> > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
developed a bad
> > starting problem.
> >
> > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its
1961
> > original coil.
> >
> > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
istead of
> > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> >
> > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> >
> > Thx in advance
>
>


From "Bob Lindsey" <blindsey at humanetics.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 14:57:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Welcome to healeys

Looking for a hardtop for a 100-6 two seater.

-----Original Message-----
From: Majordomo@autox.team.net [mailto:Majordomo@autox.team.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 2:17 PM
To: Bob Lindsey
Subject: Welcome to healeys


--

Welcome to the healeys mailing list!

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If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
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----

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your.address@your.site

For parts suppliers, check out

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html

Web based, searchable archives available at http://listquest.com under
the Hobbies/Vehicles link.


From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:14:50 EDT
Subject: 1961 Sprite Race Car For Sale

Mike Spence asked me to forward this to the lists. Very nice car but he has 
moved up to another Sprite Race Car and one of them has to go. Contact Mike 
direct.
__________________________________________________________________________


1961 Sprite, clean white with roll bar, tube shock kit, panhard bar, anti 
sway bar, double bearing rear hubs.  For sale as a roller.  Car was fastest 
time of the day at the 2000 Conclave AHCA autocross.  See photo at  
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwha_cars_for_sale.html.

Install your motor and have a winning autocross car.  $1,900.00  Will sell 
for $1,200.00 
without tube shocks and double bearing hubs.  ask for Mike Spence   h 
502-245-3502  or  w 502-968-6274  or mikespence@brownsprinkler.com

_______________________________________________________________________
Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY 
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com

From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 14:33:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

I tried a Caswell wipe-on silverplate kit on a treasured old spoon of my Better
Half's- just polish the item as you would with a regular polish.  The spoon had
most of its silver long worn away, but not anymore.  10 minutes, new spoon.  
Most
impressive.

Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California

CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:

> Rich, Doug and anyone interested in plating
>
> I have found that the plating kits from "Caswell" to be superior


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed,  4 Oct 2000 17:24:54 -0500
Subject: Re: kooler


----- Original Message -----

From: jwbn6@iopener.net
To: RWood@myson.co.uk, healeys@autox.team.nethi
Subject: kooler
Date: Wed,  4 Oct 2000 17:12:54 -0500

hi richard-

yes, we can ship you a TX KOOLER to the uk for an additional $20.  we've sent 
koolers all over europe, australia, new zealand etc.

happy healeying,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: RWood@myson.co.uk
To: "'jwbn6@iopener.net'" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Subject: kooler
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:55:04 +0100

 
 
Is it possible to arrange shipping to the  UK 
 
Regards 
 
Richard Wood 
 




From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 19:30:10 EDT
Subject: More air-fuel gauge tuning

For Adnan and Ken Freese in particular, from the Team Thicko list:

If you want further needle information,  try this web page.

<from Nolan Penney>

http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/tuning.html

This link is to an excellent web article on selecting SU needles using an 
air/fuel gauge.  This is why I think the gauge is so usefull.  If you've ever 
considered trying to optimize the needle selection for your particular 
engine, this web page is vital reading.  Not only for the knowledge you will 
gain, but for the software in it.  

The SU Needle spreadsheet program is there for determining your needle 
profile at each station, but for selecting other profiles.  Good stuff!  I 
sucked it into an Excell spreadsheet so I could have the pretty lines to 
admire in a graph.  I'm a visual sort of guy, so I can grasp lines far 
quicker then I can grasp a column of numbers.

<end>

Hope this helps.

Michael

From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 19:28:28 -0500
Subject: Healey Registries

10-4-2000

With ALL of announcements and explanations of the various 
Healey Registries (and we sincerely thank each the registrars 
for their devotion to "the Marque".  It's a LOT of hard work), I 
absolutely must make another plug for Leroy and Sue Joppa's 

    "Modified Austin Healey Registry".

With over 210 Modified Healeys listed, we don't approach 
the sheer numbers of some of the other registries, but what 
we give up in numbers of cars, we more than make up for in 
Cubic Inches and performance.  

While we don't have our cars on file cards, we DO have them 
on a WEB SITE.   www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com 
After all, this IS the electronic age.  We have pictures, technical 
specs., and stories of over half of our membership.

Please stop in and visit us.  

If you have a Modified Healey or know someone who does, 
send them on over.



From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 19:00:56 -0500
Subject: It has hit "the Fan"......  Again.....

10-4-2000 @ 6:45 PM

Hey Healey Guys,

In case you haven't seen it yet, go to the North Texas Austin Healey Club
Web Site at http://www.ntahc.austin1.com
and see what all of the discussion is about.

See for yourself, the special price on the "Texas Cooler".  See also, the
specially machined Texas Cooler adapter for Healey 100-4s & Ms.  See what it
would be worth to you (It ain't no beer can top with holes shot in it).
Scroll down a bit more to see how to order YOURS.

When you get there, click on the NTAHC logo or click on the words "Texas
Cooler".  Then scroll down  a little to see the adapter.   Keep scrolling to
find out how to order yours.

While you are visiting our site, we invite you to look around.

Look under "Past Events" and see some of the hundreds of pictures of the fun
Healey events around the country that our members have attended.

Just for fun, look at the tool "Identification List" under "Technical Tips".
Do you have any of these in your tool box ?

In Texas, we have all kinds of Healey Fun.  Join us.......


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed,  4 Oct 2000 20:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: kooler

haven't we already had this exchange ?  i'm not saying you should buy a Kooler 
unless you so desire, in fact, you would probably be happier with your present 
arrangement.

keep it between the lines,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: jwbn6@iopener.net
Subject: kooler
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 19:32:40 EDT

Jerry-- 
 
What I have been trying to ascertain is why you claim that your fanis better  
than, say, the Moss six-blade that I am currently running?  I am not a  
doubting Thomas but I must imagine that there is some "scientific basis" upon  
which you hang your hat! 
 
I am willing to be persuaded but I am not willing to buy just because   
someone says that I should. 
 
Best Regards, Michael-BN1  



From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:28:42 EDT
Subject: Re: kooler


In a message dated 10/4/00 6:10:20 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:

<< haven't we already had this exchange ?  i'm not saying you should buy a 
Kooler unless you so desire, in fact, you would probably be happier with your 
present arrangement.

keep it between the lines,

jerry >>

Just to be obstreperous, I'm beginning to feel about the efforts to sell the 
Texas Kooler via the Healey list much the same way I feel about public 
television pledge drives -- just because it's for a worthy cause doesn't make 
it any more bearable than any other commercial message.  Bought one myself, 
like it, but think that it could be promoted on a private one-to-one basis 
instead of having promotional message sent to the general list everytime 
someone asks about heating problems.
Or am I just in the middle of that time of my bi-monthly cycle when I'm on 
deadline and feeling a little irritable?
Cheers
gary

From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 18:18:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Neil,

I'm no expert, but have been around high voltage (utility work) for a few years.
I believe what happens is that it takes only so much voltage to span the gap,
depending on the dielectric strength of the media its trying to jump through and
the gap distance.  In air, which is less dense than say, the combustion chamber
gas/air/high pressure mix, it may jump across at 10 - 15 kv (just a guess)
depending on the humidity, temperature, etc, etc.  In the combustion chamber it
may require 20-25kv depending on the load, gas mix, humidity, etc.  Anyway, it
will jump based on the gap and the media.  If the gap is larger, of course the
voltage must be higher.  The higher the voltage requirement, the more it
stresses the coil (which is basically a transformer).  What you want is to get
the spark that you need (no "missing") for the least voltage (least coil
stress).  Generally, follow the coil makers recommendations for spark gap.  If
none are stated, then continue with the original settings, or call the maker of
the coil.  My theory is, if it works at original specs then keep it that way,
unless you are after every last ounce of power, then try experimenting.  But be
aware that the larger the gap, the hotter the coil will run, which is
proportional to the life of the coil.  On large transformers, we use the
guideline: for a 10 degree centegrade rise over maximum temperature
recommendation,  the life of the transformer is halved.

I hope this helps,   Jerry Rude.....BJ8


Neil Trelenberg wrote:

> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to 30,
> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening the
> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be degraded....? I
> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?  Also,
> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap (gets
> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
> >
> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
> gapped my
> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000 volts.
> The car
> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
> .030,
> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >
> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >
> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> developed a bad
> > > starting problem.
> > >
> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its
> 1961
> > > original coil.
> > >
> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
> istead of
> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > >
> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > >
> > > Thx in advance
> >
> >


From Robert Bell <rbell at cpinternet.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 21:29:26 -0500
Subject: Healey emblem color

Does anyone know the particular color of red for the Mark III 3000
emblem?


From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 22:30:15 EDT
Subject: 1961 Sprite Race Car is Sold

The 1961 Sprite Race Car that I posted about earlier sold within an hour of 
the posting. Thanks to all who responded.

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY 
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed,  4 Oct 2000 21:40:53 -0500
Subject: Re: kooler

it's probably your cycle, the one that used to be with british car...rather 
than looking at the promotion of the tx kooler as a good cause, i look at it as 
an altruistic effort for all healeys to run as cool as they appear.  if the 
kooler items offend you delete them in the same manner i delete the many 
tangents appearing on the list.
----- Original Message -----

From: Editorgary@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: kooler
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:28:42 EDT

 
 
In a message dated 10/4/00 6:10:20 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes: 
 
<< haven't we already had this exchange ?  i'm not saying you should buy a  
Kooler unless you so desire, in fact, you would probably be happier with your  
present arrangement. 
 
keep it between the lines, 
 
jerry >> 
 
Just to be obstreperous, I'm beginning to feel about the efforts to sell the  
Texas Kooler via the Healey list much the same way I feel about public  
television pledge drives -- just because it's for a worthy cause doesn't make  
it any more bearable than any other commercial message.  Bought one myself,  
like it, but think that it could be promoted on a private one-to-one basis  
instead of having promotional message sent to the general list everytime  
someone asks about heating problems. 
Or am I just in the middle of that time of my bi-monthly cycle when I'm on  
deadline and feeling a little irritable? 
Cheers 
gary 



From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 22:42:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Neil:  To be honest with you, I have no tech data to support increasing the gap
- but I believe modern cars with higher voltage coils all run larger gaps - in
the .035 -.040 range.  Off  hand it would seem a smaller gap would not have as
much chance to ignite the mix as a larger gap.  The spark might cross the  gap
quicker and earlier since the voltage potential needed to cross would be less,
although it's hard to believe it would be enough to affect timing.  Why do you
think the coil would get hot with a larger gap?  And if heat is a problem, why
are they bolted to the block?  Joe Elmer.

Neil Trelenberg wrote:

> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to 30,
> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening the
> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be degraded....? I
> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?  Also,
> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap (gets
> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
> >
> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
> gapped my
> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000 volts.
> The car
> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
> .030,
> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >
> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >
> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> developed a bad
> > > starting problem.
> > >
> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its
> 1961
> > > original coil.
> > >
> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
> istead of
> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > >
> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > >
> > > Thx in advance
> >
> >


From "Graham Healey" <Graham_Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 13:48:27 +1100
Subject: RE: kooler

I guess we could all get on the bandwagon, How about the Sydney Kooler,
thats what you put your beer in to keep 'em cold.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: 05-Oct-2000 11:29
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: kooler




In a message dated 10/4/00 6:10:20 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:

<< haven't we already had this exchange ?  i'm not saying you should buy a
Kooler unless you so desire, in fact, you would probably be happier with
your
present arrangement.

keep it between the lines,

jerry >>

Just to be obstreperous, I'm beginning to feel about the efforts to sell the
Texas Kooler via the Healey list much the same way I feel about public
television pledge drives -- just because it's for a worthy cause doesn't
make
it any more bearable than any other commercial message.  Bought one myself,
like it, but think that it could be promoted on a private one-to-one basis
instead of having promotional message sent to the general list everytime
someone asks about heating problems.
Or am I just in the middle of that time of my bi-monthly cycle when I'm on
deadline and feeling a little irritable?
Cheers
gary


From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 22:55:35 -0400
Subject: john bull strap

Guys,
 I'll post this again , nobody seemed to be able to answer this question.

reguarding the John Bull strap that fastens thewater temp capillary tube to
the heater hose. What is the proper method to fasten this. It seems fairly
staight forward but would appreciate info to save some frustration.

tia    Carroll


From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 22:53:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Ring Gear

 How did you remove the old one?  Tips or tricks would
>be greatly appreciated.  TIA.
>lance
>54 bn1
> 
Lance:

To remove the ring gear from the flywheel, use a brass drift and a big
hammer.  The brass drift will not damage the ring gear.  To install on the
flywheel, heat the ring gear in the oven (about 250 degrees), remove it
from the oven with hot pads or mittens and slip it over the flywheel.
Should go on easily, the cold flywheel will extract the heat from the ring
gear almost immediately so get it in the right position the first time!

Best regards
Jim m Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, Texas


From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 22:54:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Ring Gear

How did you remove the old one?  Tips or tricks would
>be greatly appreciated.  TIA.
>lance
>54 bn1
> 
Lance:

To remove the ring gear from the flywheel, use a brass drift and a big
hammer.  The brass drift will not damage the ring gear.  To install on the
flywheel, heat the ring gear in the oven (about 250 degrees), remove it
from the oven with hot pads or mittens and slip it over the flywheel.
Should go on easily, the cold flywheel will extract the heat from the ring
gear almost immediately so get it in the right position the first time!

Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, Texas 


From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 23:12:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Neil:

You are correct in that a 40,000 volt coil is a 40,000 volt coil.  The
purpose of increasing the gap in the spark plug (one that will work only
with increased voltage) is to expose a greater amount of spark to the a/f
mixture in the combustion chamber.  The increased voltage also permits a
wider variety of spark plug types that will work with the coil.  More
modern plugs such a cut back tip, split tip, four electrode and platinum
tip will have little effect with the standard coil and, in fact, may be
less effective than the OEM plugs.  On the other hand, with greater voltage
across the plug electrodes, the use of spark plugs with more exposed sharp
edges will generate more "fire in the hole".  

The point here is that you need to match the plug to the type of coil in
order to realize the maximum effect of the coil/plug combination.

Best regards

Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, Texas


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 00:10:57 -0600
Subject: Re: kooler

The delete button's a lot faster than whining in
writing.RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: kooler


>
> it's probably your cycle, the one that used to be with british
car...rather than looking at the promotion of the tx kooler as a good cause,
i look at it as an altruistic effort for all healeys to run as cool as they
appear.  if the kooler items offend you delete them in the same manner i
delete the many tangents appearing on the list.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: kooler
> Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:28:42 EDT
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/4/00 6:10:20 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
>
> << haven't we already had this exchange ?  i'm not saying you should buy a
> Kooler unless you so desire, in fact, you would probably be happier with
your
> present arrangement.
>
> keep it between the lines,
>
> jerry >>
>
> Just to be obstreperous, I'm beginning to feel about the efforts to sell
the
> Texas Kooler via the Healey list much the same way I feel about public
> television pledge drives -- just because it's for a worthy cause doesn't
make
> it any more bearable than any other commercial message.  Bought one
myself,
> like it, but think that it could be promoted on a private one-to-one basis
> instead of having promotional message sent to the general list everytime
> someone asks about heating problems.
> Or am I just in the middle of that time of my bi-monthly cycle when I'm on
> deadline and feeling a little irritable?
> Cheers
> gary
>
>
>


From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 02:16:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

This is a complex subject with many caveats, but in
general, widening the gap increases burn efficiency,
ergo a more powerful coil is needed to bridge the
increased gap. Remember that the plug's secondary job
is to wick heat away, so increasing burn efficiency
can require that a colder plug be used to keep it in
its optimum heat range. Hi-perf engines need more
powerful coils to fire through the more dense gas/air
charge, but may need a smaller gap to ensure that
there's no misfiring. Of course, timing, F-A ratios,
and octane requirements may need changing also.

Yes, 40kV is 40kV, regardless of the gap. If the gap
is too wide for the application, it will misfire.

The time it takes for the electrical charge to 'jump
the gap' is too short to measurably affect timing.

No, a wide gap doesn't affect the coil as long as it
completes the circuit. If it misfires regularly
though it will cause overheating between the
transformer's laminations, eventually boiling out the
coolant oil, causing output to dramatically drop.

Overall, engines don't benefit from high voltage
coils unless it's part of a complete rethinking of
timing/dwell/plugs/gap/F-A ratio, as you found out.

GM

----- Original Message -----

>
> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have
regapped my plugs 3 times to 30,
> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time
because I found it ran
> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the
princple of widening the
> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no
matter what the gap is
> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the
spark will be degraded....? I
> thought the ignition timing would be altered by
widening the gap...?  Also,
> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it
at such a wide gap (gets
> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil





From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 02:57:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Nailing that Healey color finally

You wouldn't happen to know the duplicolor part number by chance?

Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:08 PM
To: Coop1; austin healey list
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally



Randy

The "unknown poster" thanks you for the confirmation regarding the Honda
light blue metallic.  If you go to your PPG or DuPont dealer and look
through his chip books I think you will find that Honda has been using this
color or an almost identical color through the '90s.

I also will advise you that there is a BMW color called Light Blue Metallic
circa 1986-7-8 which is dead-on a match for Healey Blue.  My BT7 is painted
with this BMW code and whenever I am at a meet people comment "Now That's
the correct Healey Blue !" - to my amusement I might add.

The great advantage of using a modern paint like the Honda or the BMW is
that it can be mixed in small quantities by any autopaint jobber and you can
buy touch-up bottles and spray cans at any Pep Boys or equivalent.
Dupli-color produces their products starting about three years after
introduction and maintains those colors in their inventories for twenty
years or more.

DickB a/k/a "The Unknown Poster
'62 BT7 Tri-Carb

 ---- you wrote:
>
> A month or so ago there was a lengthy thread discussing the "correct"
Healey
> Blue color. Somebody, and I don't remember who, stated that Honda was
> replicating that color almost exactly on its late model sedans.  I was
> dubious of this as my wife drives a late model Honda with the ice blue
color
> and it isn't close to the color of my BJ8.
> Today I spotted the color the poster was referring to and damn if it isn't
> knat's ass on.  I called the Honda dealer and got the color name - it's
> "Teal Ice" on their year 2000/2001 Civics.  Other than a bit too much
metal
> flake, the color is a dead ringer for the Healey Blue we all know and love
> (you know, with the slight greenish hue in the sun).  I'm definitely going
> to spec this color for my upcoming repaint.     Just thought you'd like to
> know and thank the unknown poster for his insight.
> Randy aka Coop
>
>
>


----------------------------------------------------------------


From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:27:45 +0100
Subject: RE: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

Agreed.
Don't normally open my mouth when you guys in the States are
bickering. And our weather seems to preclude much discussion
of overheating.......
But, all credit to someone who gets something useful done and
allows others to benefit.
Simon

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Lane, Jonathan
> Sent: 04 October 2000 16:57
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
>
>
>
> Hear! Hear!  The voice of reason!  Come on people, it's a $30 fan for your
> $20,000 car.  Either kick down the $40 or design and machine one yourself.
> I, for one, am happy to see clubs going to this extent to offer
> these things
> to other Healey owners.  Hats off to the Texas Club.
>
> Jonathan Lane
> '60 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WilKo@aol.com [mailto:WilKo@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 8:38 AM
> To: brshwrks@bellatlantic.net; owner-healeys@autox.team.net;
> jwbn6@iopener.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Re: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/4/00 3:15:34 AM, brshwrks@bellatlantic.net wrote:
>
> <<
> I'd buy one if it was included with the fan!
>
> >>
>
> OK, that's just plain silly.
>
> Darn near every time someone goes through the trouble of
> designing/building/getting easy access to some part that may help
> a Healey
> owner, they get a lot of pressure and even badmouthing just
> because so many
> Healey owners/lovers can't stand to spend a little money.
> I work in marketing and understand the effects of this kind of talk in
> public.
> right now (as before) it is looking there may another string on this list
> that is making the Texas club look bad just because they aren't "throwing
> in"
> the adapter (specially designed and built).
> In this case, the whole list was posted in a question that should
> have not
> been asked at all "Does the adapter come with the fan?"
> Then he follows up with an answer, posted to the whoile list. Why? So we
> know
> that an adapter would be extra? Most people of average intelligence can
> probably figure that they may need to cough up a bit more for
> another part
> (the adapter)
>
> Rick
> San Diego


From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 07:19:55 -0500
Subject: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Bob Lindsey wrote >Looking for a hardtop for a 100-6 two seater<


Are the hardtops for the two seater and four seater the same?

Don
BN7


From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 5 Oct 2000 12:45:54 +0000
Subject: TX KOOLER FALL SPECIAL UPDATE

Just another hint from good old Germany. You can use a fan from an early
5-Series BMW. Those early engines with no electrical fan. You will find those
fans at the scrapjards for about $10. They fit perfectly to the six-cylinder
Healeys. Fly over, have some days at nice places in Europe and save money?
A cup of coffee or beer is ready when you visit me at home.

Josef Eckert, living in the beautiful river Rhine valley.

 

From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 5 Oct 2000 12:55:25 +0000
Subject: AW:Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Two and four seater hardtops are different at the back edge. Original two
seater hardtops are hard to find and sought after here in Europe. 
They are needed for rebuilding Rallye-Replicas. The convertible hardtops are
different as well. 
Josef Eckert, Germany
54 BN1, 62 BT7

From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:04:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Ring Gear

"  To install on the flywheel, heat the ring gear in the oven (about 250
degrees)"

If your wife won't let you use the oven a gas barbecue is ideal for the job.

--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

"Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:

> How did you remove the old one?  Tips or tricks would
> >be greatly appreciated.  TIA.
> >lance
> >54 bn1
> >
> Lance:
>
> To remove the ring gear from the flywheel, use a brass drift and a big
> hammer.  The brass drift will not damage the ring gear.  To install on the
> flywheel, heat the ring gear in the oven (about 250 degrees), remove it
> from the oven with hot pads or mittens and slip it over the flywheel.
> Should go on easily, the cold flywheel will extract the heat from the ring
> gear almost immediately so get it in the right position the first time!
>
> Best regards
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, Texas




From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 09:03:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Nope:    They are very similar in outward appearance, and share some parts,
but the rear fastening is different (where it clamps to the shroud trim),
the rear contour below the window is different.  Also, the rear seals
against the alloy cockpit trim on the 4 seater;....  seals to the shroud
(and scratches the paint) on the 2 seater.

----- Original Message -----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater


>
> Bob Lindsey wrote >Looking for a hardtop for a 100-6 two seater<
>
>
> Are the hardtops for the two seater and four seater the same?
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>


From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 06:18:08 -0700
Subject: $64,625 BT7 Sold at Christie's

Perhaps some have noted the item in the October issue of Automobile,
pg. 33, reporting on the June 17 Christie'e auction in Los Angeles:

"1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mark I 2+2 roadster, S/N H-BT7-L/1941.  Black
over red Connolly leather, black top.  Six cylinder, dual carbs,
chrome sixty-spoke wire wheels.  Rebuilt engine and transmission.
Engine and suspension detailed for show.  Door fit fair.  A handsome
car that could compete at the national level in a Healey concours.
SOLD AT $64, 625.  This price was surprisingly high, by perhaps
$30,000, since the dual-carb 3000 2+2 isn't as desirable as the
tripple-carb two-seat model.  A home run for the seller."

The photo shows a car with a Mark II (vertical bar) grille and a red
badge with Mark II or Mark III extension below (too small to read).
Otherwise, it is tough to discern much else from the photo.  I must
say, the seller must still be jumping for joy.

Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net


From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:26:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Got this some time ago. Thanks to Ron Mitchell
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
HEALEY HARD TOP IDENTIFICATION

In determining the difference between a 2+2  and a 2 seater hard top you
should look for the following:

1.  Look at the aluminum extrusion at the rear of the Hard Top where it
mates
to the car.  The 2+2 hard top sits on the Aluminum surround and is flat
over
the entire mating surface.  The 2 seater hard top sits on the body and
follows
the shape of the body.  The aluminum extrusion will dip downward around
the
area at the outer ends of the plexiglass rear window approximately 9/16
of an
inch.

2.  If the J Bolt mounting brackets are still on the hard top you can
measure
them to determine which top it is.  The 2+2 hard top brackets are a
little
over 2 inches long.  The 2 seater hard top brackets are over 4 inches
long.

The only difference between the 2 hard tops is the Plexiglass rear
window, the
rear lower aluiminum extrusion, the rear body seals and the two mounting

brackets.  They are identical in all other respects.

I have two 2+2 Hard tops that I am modifying to fit my BN6 and BN7.
I've had
new plexiglass made for a 2 seater  and am planning on removing the
lower rear
extrusion to reshape it to fit the body.  I have already machined new
brackets
to replace the shorter ones.  I've been told that freezing the aluminum
will
bring it back to dead soft so that it can be reshaped.  Haven't tried
that yet
but plan on giving it a try.

Bill Bolton has the Plexiglass rear windows.  British Specialties has
all the
rear surface mounting seals and Roger Moment is having side screen
opening
seals made.

Ron Mitchell
Ortonville, Michigan

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:

> Bob Lindsey wrote >Looking for a hardtop for a 100-6 two seater<
>
> Are the hardtops for the two seater and four seater the same?
>
> Don
> BN7







From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 09:58:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Ring Gear


        >...get it in the right position the first time!<

And don't forget that the chamfered side of the teeth point back 
towards the starter drive.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks


From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:03:12 -0400 
Subject: RE: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

mine doesn't scratch the paint... ;-)  

-----Original Message-----
From: JISah102 [mailto:ah102@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 9:03 AM
To: Donald L. Yarber; Healey List
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater



Nope:    They are very similar in outward appearance, and share some parts,
but the rear fastening is different (where it clamps to the shroud trim),
the rear contour below the window is different.  Also, the rear seals
against the alloy cockpit trim on the 4 seater;....  seals to the shroud
(and scratches the paint) on the 2 seater.

----- Original Message -----
From: Donald L. Yarber <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater


>
> Bob Lindsey wrote >Looking for a hardtop for a 100-6 two seater<
>
>
> Are the hardtops for the two seater and four seater the same?
>
> Don
> BN7
>
>

From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:08:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Anyone know whether a factory top for BN6's or BN7's would fit--or could be 
made to fit--on a 100?

Michael Oritt, BN1

From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:27:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater

Michael:  I used to store my BN7 hardtop on my BN1 when neither was in use.
It sure looked good just resting there in approximately the proper position.
I'm sure a good fibreglas person could make the necessary modifications for
$$$, but you would want to consider very carefully the prospect of ruining a
rare and valuable 6 cyl factory hardtop.

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>; <ah102@home.com>; <dyarber@dynasty.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater


> Anyone know whether a factory top for BN6's or BN7's would fit--or could
be
> made to fit--on a 100?
>
> Michael Oritt, BN1
>


From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 08:17:12 -0700
Subject: END OF AN ERA / ICON

I read in this mornings paper that the LAST, (after 41 years of production,
MINI # 5,387,862) rolled off the production line at MG Rovers Longbridge
Birmingham plant.

                          BUT

BMW, will introduce a completely new redisigned, version of the Mini next
year at it's factory in nearby Oxford.

Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3

P.S. For those that have access to wire services.  The story was written by
Bruce Stanley, AP Business Writer.


From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: $64,625 BT7 Sold at Christie's

With that serial number, the car was surely a 1959. My old Healey,
HBT7L/5564, was first registered in October 59 in Victoria, BC.

John Slade
HBT7L/18147 Tri Carb


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:04:06 -0400
Subject: Re: $64,625 BT7 Sold at Christie's

That car had to have built in July or August of 1959.

Mike B
H-BT7-L/1281   (June 59)

>With that serial number, the car was surely a 1959. My old Healey,
>HBT7L/5564, was first registered in October 59 in Victoria, BC.
>
>John Slade
>HBT7L/18147 Tri Carb


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:31:26 EDT
Subject: Re: john bull strap


In a message dated 10/4/00 7:58:54 PM, bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:

<< Guys,
 I'll post this again , nobody seemed to be able to answer this question.

reguarding the John Bull strap that fastens thewater temp capillary tube to
the heater hose. What is the proper method to fasten this. It seems fairly
staight forward but would appreciate info to save some frustration.

tia    Carroll >>

I don't think there is any right way -- the strap actually was designed to 
fasten a hand-brake cable to the frame of a Humber or Raleigh bike!  It was 
an interesting example of solving a problem -- temp cables accidentally 
hitting against the fuse block -- with something that was probably grabbed 
off the bicycle of the shop lad at first.

Basically, I think it can be attached in whatever way makes the most sense to 
you -- it is one of the areas where different guys on the line probably 
attached them in different ways since the line boss probably wouldn't care as 
long as the sensor wire got fastened to something so that it wouldn't 
accidently brush against the fuse box.

I know we have seen it fastened either to the heater return hose or to the 
air filter to valve cover breather hose. 

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:35:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater


In a message dated 10/5/00 5:20:17 AM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:

<< Are the hardtops for the two seater and four seater the same?

Don
BN7 >>

No -- they have  different side curves to match the different profiles of the 
two-seater and four-seater rear shrouds.
Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:42:07 EDT
Subject: Re: $64,625 BT7 Sold at Christie's


In a message dated 10/5/00 6:19:19 AM, bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:

<< 
The photo shows a car with a Mark II (vertical bar) grille and a red
badge with Mark II or Mark III extension below (too small to read).
Otherwise, it is tough to discern much else from the photo.  I must
say, the seller must still be jumping for joy. >>

here's the story (I just wrote a profile on this car for Sports Car Market). 
First, the car in the picture is NOT the car that was sold. Kurt Tanner in 
sourthern California restored the car and didn't have it done when Christies 
had to have a picture for their catalog, so they grabbed a file photo. 
Second, Martin copied the catalog photograph instead of having a photographer 
take a picture of the car at the auction as he usually does, and didn't note 
that either in his own magazine or in Automobile. Third, the car was very, 
very nice -- Kurt and his father do very good restorations, adhering closely 
to both high standards of quality and concours-level standards of originality.

Fourth, Jay Leno was bidding against the eventual buyer and these guys play a 
very different game than you and me.  If they want a particular marque and 
see a very nice example, their attitude is "So what if I pay $20,000 over its 
real market value? I make more than that in a day (or week), so if I don't 
have to waste a day or week looking for one, I'm ahead.  

And that is (long pause) the rest of the story.
Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:44:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100-6 two seater


In a message dated 10/5/00 6:25:28 AM, magicare@home.com writes:

<< The only difference between the 2 hard tops >>

Oh, don't forget what one lister determine -- there is a number stamped on 
the aluminum just over the passenger side opening. the prefix "4" indicates 
that it goes to a four-seat BN4 (and, of course, will fit a BT7), the prefix 
"6" indicates that it goes to a two-seat BN6 (and thus will fit a BN7).

Cheers
Gary

From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 11:57:26 -0500
Subject: Horn Button/Turn Signall Switch/Trafficator

Or whatever you call it.

I have researched this in Tech Talk (by Norm Nock) and through all the
e-mail list postings and cannot seem to find the answer.

My Trafficator (for lack of a better term) turns when I turn the steering
wheel.  I thought it was supposed to stay stationary at 12 O:CLOCK.

I have read that the compression sleeve and nut at the end of the tube is
supposed to keep it from turning with the wheel.  Will someone please tell
me how this works?  I tightened that nut as tight as it will go and the
trafficator still turns with the wheel.  I finally pulled the assembly out
to see if it had separated from the bottom portion of the tube and it has
not.  There are four dimples in the top portion and a 4 1/4 slot in the
bottom portion.  The dimples were firmly ensconced in the bottom slot.  How
far down that slot is the upper part supposed to go?  All the way to the end
of the slot???  If not, how do you keep it from going to the end?

Is the bottom tube supposed to protrude out of the steering box at the
bottom??
How does this work?????

Help!

Don
BN7


From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 11:58:53 -0500
Subject: John Bull Strap

On page 114 of Norm Nock's Tech Talk there is an illustration of the correct
way to attach the capillary tube to the left heater hose using a John Bull
Strap.

Don
BN7


From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:07:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Gents:
My dear old departed pappy was a railroad man, oculist, chemist, and part-time
genius.
Additionally, as a ham radio operator and builder in the seventies, he began
fooling
with electroplating.
Together, the two of use dipped many a circuit board. Parental bonding.....
I am frankly surprised that these kits have not appeared on the market quite a
few
years ago.
But!  Beware!  Dad always reminded me that the biggest danger was to the
neighborhood
dog, cat and small child population. As far as I know it is all POISON.
Please be careful, and have a nice day!
tom   bn2   ( couple of old dodges, too.)


"Mr. Finespanner" wrote:

> Bob,
> I've been very pleased with the Eastwood zinc kit, too -- I think I'm
> on my tenth anode now.  I believe what Eastwood sells for black oxide is
> basically a cold blueing process, which gives a real nice gunmetal finish.
> I'm not a chemist, but I think the original black oxide process, as seen on
> Healey engine hardware, some tools, etc., involved immersing your bits in a
> nasty heated (around 280 degrees) caustic solution that the EPA nowadays
> protects us from.  The "hot" black oxiding renders a somewhat tougher finish
> than the "cold" but "cold" is all that's available for amateur use.
> http://www.finishing.com/0800-0999/854.html has some discussion on this.
>
> The cold blueing looks fine, it's just not as black, durable, or rough as
> the hot black oxide.  However, settling for the cold process sure beats
> poisoning yourself.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Haskell <bhaskell@iquest.net>
> To: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 8:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long
>
> > "Mr. Finespanner" wrote:
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> > > To: RL Chrysler <lchrysl@fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
> > > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 1:57 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Plating Parts- long
> > >
> > > > Rich,
> > > > That stuff is not as noxious as Eastwood lets on.  I have never found
> it
> > > > necessary to wear rubber gloves or use forced ventilation, but it
> > > certainly
> > > > will discolor clothing if splashed on.  Also works great on OD
> throttle
> > > > switches!  Now, if only someone made a home black oxide process...
> > > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> > > >
> >
> > Doug,
> >
> > Eastwood offers a black oxide kit.  I bought one, but haven't tried it out
> yet.  Have been pleased with the zinc plating kit.
> >
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > '60 AH BT-7 MkI
> > '64 Mini Cooper S RHD
> > '80 MGB LE
> > bhaskell@iquest.net
> > SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice


From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 13:45:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Horn Button/Turn Signall Switch/Trafficator


Hi Don,

The lower section of the stator tube is prevented from rotating by the nut and
olive on the bottom of the steering box. To do this the tube must protrude
through the nut . This also prevents the oil from leaking out of the steering
box.
The upper section of the stator tube is attached to the base of the signal
switch assembly and the "pips" on the upper tube engage in the slot on the lower
tube and thus the adjustable steering column can be adjusted, by sliding up and
down the slot, and the upper section is prevented from rotating.
I suspect taht you need to push your lower stator tube down a little to allow
the olive and nut to lock it and prevent rotation.
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


"Donald L. Yarber" wrote:

> Or whatever you call it.
>
> I have researched this in Tech Talk (by Norm Nock) and through all the
> e-mail list postings and cannot seem to find the answer.
>
> My Trafficator (for lack of a better term) turns when I turn the steering
> wheel.  I thought it was supposed to stay stationary at 12 O:CLOCK.
>
> I have read that the compression sleeve and nut at the end of the tube is
> supposed to keep it from turning with the wheel.  Will someone please tell
> me how this works?  I tightened that nut as tight as it will go and the
> trafficator still turns with the wheel.  I finally pulled the assembly out
> to see if it had separated from the bottom portion of the tube and it has
> not.  There are four dimples in the top portion and a 4 1/4 slot in the
> bottom portion.  The dimples were firmly ensconced in the bottom slot.  How
> far down that slot is the upper part supposed to go?  All the way to the end
> of the slot???  If not, how do you keep it from going to the end?
>
> Is the bottom tube supposed to protrude out of the steering box at the
> bottom??
> How does this work?????
>
> Help!
>
> Don
> BN7


From Jim Rowan <jimrowan at uic.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:54:58 -0500
Subject: Re: END OF AN ERA / ICON

It's NOT a Mini, it's the latest BMW M car  (i.e. M3, M5) with a Mini badge
purchased from a disemboweled Rover. The real Mini has now been tagged
"Classic Mini" and the new BMW small car is called the "MINI tm".
Yes it's all caps MINI according to BMW.  Kinda like Classic coke and
new coke. What ever happened to new coke? A similar fate awaits
this new BMW.

RIP Mini 1959-2000

Jim
62 Cooper
60 Sprite

At 08:17 AM 10/05/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I read in this mornings paper that the LAST, (after 41 years of production,
>MINI # 5,387,862) rolled off the production line at MG Rovers Longbridge
>Birmingham plant.
>
>                          BUT
>
>BMW, will introduce a completely new redisigned, version of the Mini next
>year at it's factory in nearby Oxford.
>
>Kirk Kvam
>62BT7#3
>
>P.S. For those that have access to wire services.  The story was written by
>Bruce Stanley, AP Business Writer.


From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:09:56 -0700
Subject: sparky

Hi all,

With the recent discussion of sport coils and plug gap I wanted to segue
with some questions about MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge).

I inherited an installed MSD unit with the purchase of my BJ7 one year
ago. The rest of the ignition system is basically stock with standard
points, coil, plugs and distributor. The only other change is 12v neg
conversion.

Can someone tell me what the advantages and disadvantages are to these
systems in general? The sales literature says, "better milage, super
quick starts, increased power". Do any of the parts in the ignition
system wear out faster because of all that sparking going on?

John Loftus
Laguna Beach, CA

From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:13:18 -0400
Subject: John bull stap

Thanks to those who responded. Todd Clark was away for awhile finally got in
touch with him this morning. Consensus was juat pull through till its tight.
With so many holes and barbs it looked like I could use it for fishing! It
would probably be a good bass lure..

will double check with Norms' book

Carroll


From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 11:26:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Horn Button/Turn Signall Switch/Trafficator

Donald, I will try to answer this the best I can and the group can add to or
correct. I believe the only thing stopping the trafficator from turning are
the 3 retaining stator tube screws in the steering wheel "hub". They clamp
and centre the stator assembly. Look closely behind the steering wheel
spokes for the screw locations. With the wheel and control head assembly
centred the 3 screws can be tightened, if not the upper assembly will turn.
The nut and olive at the steering box is there to hold and seal the stator
tube as it passes through the steering box. If it is loose or removed the
oil will drain from the steering box, "trust me". The end of my stator tube
protrudes approx 1.5 inches from the end of the box. The dimples and slots
mate in the upper end of the stator tube, the head is meant to slide as the
steering wheel is adjusted in and out. Becareful when reinserting the head
assembly in the stator tube, damage can occur to the top of the tube making
it very difficult to insert. If the stator upper slot is sloppy the
trafficator cap assembly will still move slightly back and forth but that is
not the same problem you are having. I always put a bucket under the
steering box when I work on the trafficator
;-)...once burned...Neil


----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber@dynasty.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 9:57 AM
Subject: Horn Button/Turn Signall Switch/Trafficator


>
> Or whatever you call it.
>
> I have researched this in Tech Talk (by Norm Nock) and through all the
> e-mail list postings and cannot seem to find the answer.
>
> My Trafficator (for lack of a better term) turns when I turn the steering
> wheel.  I thought it was supposed to stay stationary at 12 O:CLOCK.
>
> I have read that the compression sleeve and nut at the end of the tube is
> supposed to keep it from turning with the wheel.  Will someone please tell
> me how this works?  I tightened that nut as tight as it will go and the
> trafficator still turns with the wheel.  I finally pulled the assembly out
> to see if it had separated from the bottom portion of the tube and it has
> not.  There are four dimples in the top portion and a 4 1/4 slot in the
> bottom portion.  The dimples were firmly ensconced in the bottom slot.
How
> far down that slot is the upper part supposed to go?  All the way to the
end
> of the slot???  If not, how do you keep it from going to the end?
>
> Is the bottom tube supposed to protrude out of the steering box at the
> bottom??
> How does this work?????
>
> Help!
>
> Don
> BN7
>


From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:08:15 -0500
Subject: Re: sparky

You didn't mention which MSD you had so lets just cover the Basics as I
understand them...

a Multiple Spark Discharge system uses your Points to trigger a Pulse to
the Box... and then the Box uses that Pulse to signal the Coil to Fire 6
times per firing... up to a Given RPM.... after which it limits Coil
Saturation by only firing Once... ( 6000 rpm I think )

the wear on your Points should be about Zero other then the Rub Block on
the Distributor....   Since your plugs are firing Multiple times you should
in fact have more complete combustion in the chamber...Which should give
you all the things you mentioned to include Higher Performance and greater
start ability.... the most important thing is Increased reliability as it's
now an electronic ignition over a Points system that really was outdated
LONG ago...

I still run Points in my Hundred... cause they work fine... and I don't
consider it a High Performance car.... Sporty Yes... but High Performance
NO.... I do run the Best Gas I can find and once a Year throw some Leaded
Fuel in it to lubricate the Valves.... but I like the Maintenance of the
System as it was built... if I wanted a Zero Maintenance car I would have
bought a HONDA...

Would I remove a MSD if was installed.... Absolutely NOT unless I was going
for a Concours Car.... if it was a Driver and the holes were already
Drilled.... I would keep it forever... it's a Much Better system...

Keith Turk....( 100...bugeye... and a ton of them Box Sprites...oh and that
Junk Yard Camaro I keep trying to make go FAST.... 228mph this month out at
Bonneville on a 230mph record...)

----------
> From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: sparky
> Date: Thursday, October 05, 2000 1:09 PM
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> With the recent discussion of sport coils and plug gap I wanted to segue
> with some questions about MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge).
> 
> I inherited an installed MSD unit with the purchase of my BJ7 one year
> ago. The rest of the ignition system is basically stock with standard
> points, coil, plugs and distributor. The only other change is 12v neg
> conversion.
> 
> Can someone tell me what the advantages and disadvantages are to these
> systems in general? The sales literature says, "better milage, super
> quick starts, increased power". Do any of the parts in the ignition
> system wear out faster because of all that sparking going on?
> 
> John Loftus
> Laguna Beach, CA

From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
Date: 5 Oct 2000 15:21:59 -0700
Subject: October 22 Southern OntarioTour

Any listeners able to make it to the Toronto area are invited to join the 
Austin-Healey Club of Southern Ontario for a Fall Colours Tour, Wine Tasting, 
and 100S viewing.

Hugh Sutherland is, as far as he knows, the only 100S original owner still 
possessing the car. He is also a  Former Works Driver. Hugh has invited us to 
visit. 

Date:  Sunday October 22

Place: 16430 11th Concession, Schomberg, Ontario.  South of Highway 9. This is 
45 minutes north of Toronto. 

Time: Tour will meet at Macdonald’s Hwy 25/401 Milton 12:00 Noon,

Tour to Schomberg via rural roads to arrive 2:00.
(Or meet the group at Hugh's around 2:00)

Hugh has a 40 X 80 Garage with around 25 cars in various stages of repair. They 
include the Healey 100S, 2 Porsches, 5-6 Jaguars, 5-6 BMW’s etc.

Hugh is a wine importer and will have a wine tasting.
In addition, Cameron Brewery will have their specialty brewed beer samples.

Anyone wanting to make a weekend out of this please let us know ahead of time. 
Hugh has a friend with a Four Star Bed & Breakfast in Nobleton, with 12 rooms 
plus the ability to provide  a gourmet dinner for up to 48 people Sunday night. 

Please confirm your desire to attend by Monday October 9th either to Bob Slater 
via e-mail (bjslater@golden. net) or to Laurie Wilford 1-519-650-8400. Hugh 
would like to make proper arrangements for the number attending.

Thanks,

Laurie Wilford
AHCSO




_______________________________________________________________________

Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now! 
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html

_______________________________________________________________________
                     
------- End of forwarded message -------


_______________________________________________________________________

Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now! 
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_______________________________________________________________________


From "Anders Gustafson" <bugeye at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 00:58:26 +0200
Subject: RE: END OF AN ERA / ICON

....and all around the world mini owners gathered to pay their respect to
that little car. In Sweden around 40 minis of various shape drove slowly
through the city of Uppsala to the local BMW/Rover dealer where we had a
little ceremony, lit torches and put a garland next to the door (someone
sugested we should burn down one of the BMW´s outside the garage ..... but
we did´nt). Then we drowe back in to town to drown our sadness in loads of
beer......

:-)

...would Mr Bean ever be that fun in a BMW......

cheers//AndersG

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Anders Gustafson
AH Sprite Mk1 -61, BMC Morris 850 Mk1 -67 (100% non-BMW)
Phone +46-8-7493113, +46-70-5641432 (Mobile)
e-mail: bugeye@telia.com
Austin Healey Club of Sweden
www.healeysweden.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of KIRK KVAM
Sent: den 5 oktober 2000 17:17
To: TRICARB@aol.com; Tomdamit@aol.com; REID TRUMMEL; Ralph Comito; John
Hunt; John Healey; joan carr; jim albeck; healeys@autox.team.net; Hans
Nohr; Graham Healey; Editorgary@aol.com; carol goldsworth; Bond Copy;
Bill Barnett; Art Hill; Absolutely British
Subject: END OF AN ERA / ICON



I read in this mornings paper that the LAST, (after 41 years of production,
MINI # 5,387,862) rolled off the production line at MG Rovers Longbridge
Birmingham plant.

                          BUT

BMW, will introduce a completely new redisigned, version of the Mini next
year at it's factory in nearby Oxford.

Kirk Kvam
62BT7#3

P.S. For those that have access to wire services.  The story was written by
Bruce Stanley, AP Business Writer.


From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 19:35:13 EDT
Subject: Re: kooler 

In a message dated 10/4/00 9:31:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Editorgary@aol.com writes:

<< Just to be obstreperous >>
I confess I had to look that word up, means to be noisy. But I have to back 
Gary up on his observation even if he maybe cranky because deadline is 
approaching.

There are 752 people on this list. 752 people who get a lot of great 
information and enjoyment from it. Sometimes people who drift from the 
purpose of the list get flamed but there is a reason behind it. A lot of us 
are protective of the list because we enjoy it so much. If you are a member 
of some of the other team.net British car lists you can get four times the 
mail traffic and less information because of so many irrelevant messages. I 
just unsubscribed from two that I use to enjoy because the traffic was 
overwhelming. So sometimes someone yells "take it off line" because 
we don't want our list to deteriorate in content or unnecessary volume of 
traffic.

Nothing bad about the merits of a Texas cooler or whatever, I use the fan on 
my cars and endorse them. Always buy them from NTAHC because they are nice 
people. I think Gary was just using that as an example not about the product 
quality but about repetitive posts.

It's just that sometimes we all need to think do 752 people really need to 
hear this again before we hit the send key.



Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY 
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 19:57:51 EDT
Subject: Re: kooler 

In a message dated 10/05/2000 6:37:53 PM Central Daylight Time, BGAHC@aol.com 
writes:

<< If you are a member 
 of some of the other team.net British car lists you can get four times the 
 mail traffic and less information because of so many irrelevant messages. >>

Try NINE, Jim!!

Ed

PS:  And a couple others for NON LBC info<sigh>

From "Chris van Brummen" <chrisvanbrummen at houston.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 18:59:43 -0500
Subject: BJ7 OIL PUMP

Could anyone out there please advise me what sort of oil pump I should put
in a BJ7 for best performance - rotary or gear ??????
The car will be used for street purposes at first and possible raced after a
couple of years. It is currently undergoing a full rebuild.
Cheers
Chris van Brummen




From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:15:43 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 OIL PUMP

I would stick with a factory type gear pump for any cam driven oil pump.  
Jaguar used a lot of rotor type oil pumps, but they were driven by a separate 
chain from the crank.  Rotor type pumps can be better (higher pressure, more 
volume) but wear out cam drive gears quickly.  They can also make pulsing 
noises like a rod knock when the chain stretches...as with my 1989 XJ6...very 
annoying.  Gear type pumps provide adequate pressure and volume for all but 
the most extreme racing conditions.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6

From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 19:47:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 OIL PUMP

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------C9CF48854447A97F87892590

We've had lots of problems with the vane type pump in the race engines. The
problem will be that the cam oil pump gear and the oil pump shaft gear will wear
very rapidly.  Caused by the pulsing of the vane and limited lubrication at the
cam gear drive. After chewing up several cams and oil pump shafts we went back
to the gear type pumps - no problems and still good oil pressure (assuming of
course that the pump is good to start with).

Regards Fred

Chris van Brummen wrote:

> Could anyone out there please advise me what sort of oil pump I should put
> in a BJ7 for best performance - rotary or gear ??????
> The car will be used for street purposes at first and possible raced after a
> couple of years. It is currently undergoing a full rebuild.
> Cheers
> Chris van Brummen

--------------C9CF48854447A97F87892590
 name="oldwolf.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for Fred Crowley
Content-Disposition: attachment;
 filename="oldwolf.vcf"

begin:vcard 
n:Crowley;Fred
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing 
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:oldwolf@airmail.net
title:Team Healey Texas
fn:Fred Crowley
end:vcard

--------------C9CF48854447A97F87892590--


From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 22:12:53 -0500
Subject: Thanks for info on Trafficator et al

Thanks to all who responded regarding the problem I was having with the horn
button/turn signal switch/trafficator.  The problem was solved by removing
the upper tube from the lower and letting the lower tube drop through the
steering box, then attaching the olive and nut to the lower tube, then
replacing the upper tube with the dimples in the groove provided.  The only
significant problem I encountered was that when I tightened the nut the
trafficator moved from the 12 o:clock position.  I alternately tightened and
loosened the nut until I got the trafficator in the right spot with the nut
tight.  I'll put more fluid in tomorrow and hope it doesn't leak.
A note to other backyard mechanics like myself.....You may have to take a
screwdriver and spread the olive apart slightly to get it to fit over the
stator tube (I did, that's why I hope it doesn't leak).

Again, thanks to all who responded.

Don
BN7


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 01:54:16 -0600
Subject: Re: kooler 

It seems to me using the digest to promote a restoration book, signed copies
being extra, a strictly commercial enterprise, should have generated some
criticism but it didn't. Here you are bashing a non profit club for
promoting a product that clearly benefits Healeys, the profits from which go
back into the club who's sole purpose is to promote, preserve, and enjoy
Healeys. The rationale escapes me. Perhaps Gary you were suffering from some
temporary mental abberation aka PMS but if you were the next time you feel
it coming on take two Midol, go to bed and e-mail the digest in the morning.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGAHC@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: kooler


>
> In a message dated 10/4/00 9:31:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> << Just to be obstreperous >>
> I confess I had to look that word up, means to be noisy. But I have to
back
> Gary up on his observation even if he maybe cranky because deadline is
> approaching.
>
> There are 752 people on this list. 752 people who get a lot of great
> information and enjoyment from it. Sometimes people who drift from the
> purpose of the list get flamed but there is a reason behind it. A lot of
us
> are protective of the list because we enjoy it so much. If you are a
member
> of some of the other team.net British car lists you can get four times the
> mail traffic and less information because of so many irrelevant messages.
I
> just unsubscribed from two that I use to enjoy because the traffic was
> overwhelming. So sometimes someone yells "take it off line" because
> we don't want our list to deteriorate in content or unnecessary volume of
> traffic.
>
> Nothing bad about the merits of a Texas cooler or whatever, I use the fan
on
> my cars and endorse them. Always buy them from NTAHC because they are nice
> people. I think Gary was just using that as an example not about the
product
> quality but about repetitive posts.
>
> It's just that sometimes we all need to think do 752 people really need to
> hear this again before we hit the send key.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
>


From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 20:47:23 +1000
Subject: Goodbye

I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.

I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.

Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option to
mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50 mails
daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list

If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and backstabbing
daily, I would call my ex-wife.

To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the help
and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for the
opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority are
dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the ugly
minority seem to have taken control.

Once again thank you and adieu.

Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia

'58 BN4


From "James Wentink" <jdwentink at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 11:53:35 GMT
Subject: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match

Hello to the list!

I'm currently in the process of having my '63 BJ7 restored, and I'm looking 
for help to match the original color which was called IVORY WHITE.

Any inpust that you can give me for a proper color match would be greatly 
appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Jim Wentink
Bloomfield, NJ



_________________________________________________________________________



From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 08:42:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Greg,
Can't agree with you more. I came on 7 or 8 weeks ago and nearly got off
when bombarded with all the Firestone drivel, only to be followed by
bickering over driving styles and truck safety. However, if the over 700 who
don't offend get off there won't be a list. Please reconsider.

Regards,

Mal  Bruce
Southern Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:26 AM
Subject: Goodbye


>
>I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
>I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
>information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
>contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
>
>Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option
to
>mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
>than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50
mails
>daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
>which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
>
>If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
backstabbing
>daily, I would call my ex-wife.
>
>To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the
help
>and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for the
>opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority
are
>dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the
ugly
>minority seem to have taken control.
>
>Once again thank you and adieu.
>
>Greg Bankin
>gregbankin@primus.com.au
>Sunshine Coast
>Queensland
>Australia
>
>'58 BN4
>
>


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 09:04:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Folks,

         I hate to say it, but I agree with these folks.  We have been 
going down too many rat holes lately.  I was glad to see the comment on the 
Texas Kooler when it first came out, but I don't really need to see 10 msgs 
in a day on the fundraiser.

   Yes I drive an SUV with the questionable tire (which are no longer on 
the truck) but I really don't need to hear all the drivel on that subject 
here either.

   I don't think I'm talking out of school when I say we all joined this 
list because of the love of our Austin Healeys and we wanted to talk to 
others about that subject.  Can we please keep it to that subject and stop 
with the non-Healey related chatter?  I'd really rather not see this list 
turn into the number of other lists we all have turned off because out of 
100 messages, we get 3 that might be worth reading...

Mike B
59 BT7



At 08:42 AM 10/6/00 -0400, Malcolm Bruce wrote:

>Greg,
>Can't agree with you more. I came on 7 or 8 weeks ago and nearly got off
>when bombarded with all the Firestone drivel, only to be followed by
>bickering over driving styles and truck safety. However, if the over 700 who
>don't offend get off there won't be a list. Please reconsider.
>
>Regards,
>
>Mal  Bruce
>Southern Ontario
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:26 AM
>Subject: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> >I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> >
> >I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
> >information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
> >contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> >
> >Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option
>to
> >mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
> >than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50
>mails
> >daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
> >which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> >
> >If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
>backstabbing
> >daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> >
> >To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the
>help
> >and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for the
> >opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority
>are
> >dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the
>ugly
> >minority seem to have taken control.
> >
> >Once again thank you and adieu.
> >
> >Greg Bankin
> >gregbankin@primus.com.au
> >Sunshine Coast
> >Queensland
> >Australia
> >
> >'58 BN4
> >
> >


From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 09:09:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Sorry to loose you Gary, but I can appreciate your sentiments.
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Greg Bankin wrote:

> I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
> I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
> information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
> contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
>
> Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option to
> mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
> than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50 mails
> daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
> which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
>
> If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and backstabbing
> daily, I would call my ex-wife.
>
> To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the help
> and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for the
> opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority are
> dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the ugly
> minority seem to have taken control.
>
> Once again thank you and adieu.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4





From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 07:37:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Greg-

Hope you'll reconsider.

As I and others have noted, although we may be annoyed from time to time -and
what is annoying will certainly vary from person to person- the worst behavior
on this list is tame compared to most others.

Regards,

Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California

Greg Bankin wrote:

> I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.


From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 10:40:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be nice to see 
more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There are over 750 
subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from the same few 
people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in on 
virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same topic) 
even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of the 
silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to get 
flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.

Ray G
Colorado

From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 08:56:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us have to
communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from me because I show
an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for the bickering
it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun. I've been to many
Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if they weren't
talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be different? As
you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so you won't be
missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
Subject: Goodbye


>
> I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
> I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
> information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
> contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
>
> Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option
to
> mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
> than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50
mails
> daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
> which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
>
> If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
backstabbing
> daily, I would call my ex-wife.
>
> To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the
help
> and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for
the
> opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority
are
> dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the
ugly
> minority seem to have taken control.
>
> Once again thank you and adieu.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
>


From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:48:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Hey I guess I am in the Silent Majority here.. Well I didn't start out so
Silent....  I just got tired of being Flamed for not caring about Concours
and Cutting up a Bugeye to run it on the Salt....

There are still some wonderful folks here... and Rodger Moments comments and
others that do care about Concours are truely interesting to read... ( I
still don't care... but they do so it's interesting to see how they go down
thier road ) It's a Live and Let live way of Life... oh and taking the time
to enjoy someone else's passion....

Keith ( why Yes it's been a Hoot )

----- Original Message -----
From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> Greg-
>
> Hope you'll reconsider.
>
> As I and others have noted, although we may be annoyed from time to
time -and
> what is annoying will certainly vary from person to person- the worst
behavior
> on this list is tame compared to most others.
>
> Regards,
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
>
> Greg Bankin wrote:
>
> > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:00:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

When you say nothing of substance to add are you talking for the whole list
or just making an annoying personal observation?RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be nice to see
> more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There are over 750
> subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from the same few
> people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
on
> virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
topic)
> even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of
the
> silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to
get
> flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
>


From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 11:44:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

As a previous offender who tried to beat back the drivel, but
alas, only became hopelessly mired in it, I along with probably
many others would like to see less of

1 - blitzkriegs from the safety nazis, (at the slightest
provocation)
2 - unsolicited viscous personal slams, (usually by the same
tribe)
3- thin skinned over reactions to slight jibes
4- those stupid one word responses (Ed excepted)
5- the clique mode

I am on two other lists, and something has got to go. I've done my
bit lately and lurk as much as possible but the delete volume is
getting way too high.

But OTOH, a little local color does dress up things.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug



But
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2000 6:47 AM
Subject: Goodbye


>
> I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
> I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of
the
> information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
bickering that is
> contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
>
> Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have
the option to
> mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain
about rather
> than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through
40 -50 mails
> daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment
of Healeys,
> which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
>
> If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
backstabbing
> daily, I would call my ex-wife.
>
> To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks
for the help
> and valuable information I have received and also accept my
apology for the
> opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the
majority are
> dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
unfortunately the ugly
> minority seem to have taken control.
>
> Once again thank you and adieu.
>
> Greg Bankin
> gregbankin@primus.com.au
> Sunshine Coast
> Queensland
> Australia
>
> '58 BN4
>
>



From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 09:03:50 -0700
Subject: Re: sparky

Hi Keith,

Thanks for the overview and lesson. I did find a web site for the
Autotronic MSD 5 that was installed in my Healey.
http://www.msdignition.com/  under Products > Automotive > Ignitions >
Economy/Street > MSD 5 Ignition, PN 5200.

The P.O. saved the original paperwork and the unit is over 20 years old
but still must be working fine. I've put 3000 miles on the BJ7 this year
and the points have no visible wear (and I think they have been in the
car for many years). Good to hear it's not just snake oil and will keep
it in as it's a driver and reliability is most important to me.

Good luck with the speed records!

John



Keith Turk wrote:
> 
> You didn't mention which MSD you had so lets just cover the Basics as I
> understand them...
> 
> a Multiple Spark Discharge system uses your Points to trigger a Pulse to
> the Box... and then the Box uses that Pulse to signal the Coil to Fire 6
> times per firing... up to a Given RPM.... after which it limits Coil
> Saturation by only firing Once... ( 6000 rpm I think )
> 
> the wear on your Points should be about Zero other then the Rub Block on
> the Distributor....   Since your plugs are firing Multiple times you should
> in fact have more complete combustion in the chamber...Which should give
> you all the things you mentioned to include Higher Performance and greater
> start ability.... the most important thing is Increased reliability as it's
> now an electronic ignition over a Points system that really was outdated
> LONG ago...
> 
> I still run Points in my Hundred... cause they work fine... and I don't
> consider it a High Performance car.... Sporty Yes... but High Performance
> NO.... I do run the Best Gas I can find and once a Year throw some Leaded
> Fuel in it to lubricate the Valves.... but I like the Maintenance of the
> System as it was built... if I wanted a Zero Maintenance car I would have
> bought a HONDA...
> 
> Would I remove a MSD if was installed.... Absolutely NOT unless I was going
> for a Concours Car.... if it was a Driver and the holes were already
> Drilled.... I would keep it forever... it's a Much Better system...
> 
> Keith Turk....( 100...bugeye... and a ton of them Box Sprites...oh and that
> Junk Yard Camaro I keep trying to make go FAST.... 228mph this month out at
> Bonneville on a 230mph record...)
> 
> ----------
> > From: John Loftus <loftusdesign@home.com>
> > To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> > Subject: sparky
> > Date: Thursday, October 05, 2000 1:09 PM
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > With the recent discussion of sport coils and plug gap I wanted to segue
> > with some questions about MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge).
> >
> > I inherited an installed MSD unit with the purchase of my BJ7 one year
> > ago. The rest of the ignition system is basically stock with standard
> > points, coil, plugs and distributor. The only other change is 12v neg
> > conversion.
> >
> > Can someone tell me what the advantages and disadvantages are to these
> > systems in general? The sales literature says, "better milage, super
> > quick starts, increased power". Do any of the parts in the ignition
> > system wear out faster because of all that sparking going on?
> >
> > John Loftus
> > Laguna Beach, CA

From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:07:10 EDT
Subject: Re: plating parts at home

In a message dated 10/04/2000 11:56:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
jdrax@badger.tds.net writes:

<< could you possibly supply a phone number for
 
 Philip Brown of British Tools and Fasteners of Los Osos, CA. >>

John

Better yet, just double click here... <A 
HREF="http://www.mrcybermall.com/machine_tool_parts/";>BRITISH TOOLS AND 
FASTENERS</A> .

Cheers 

Curt 

From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:12:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Geez, Ray - are your legs spread and is there a grin on your face
when you lob those slams? Or are you just a plain vanilla jerk?

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: <CIAG6@aol.com>; <gregbankin@primus.com.au>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2000 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> When you say nothing of substance to add are you talking for the
whole list
> or just making an annoying personal
observation?RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be
nice to see
> > more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There
are over 750
> > subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from
the same few
> > people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled
to chime in
> on
> > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on
the same
> topic)
> > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess
that many of
> the
> > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they
don't want to
> get
> > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
> >
> > Ray G
> > Colorado
> >
>
>



From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 10:15:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

How about I just keep you guessing. Rayfixitanddriveitfeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <CIAG6@aol.com>;
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> Geez, Ray - are your legs spread and is there a grin on your face
> when you lob those slams? Or are you just a plain vanilla jerk?
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: <CIAG6@aol.com>; <gregbankin@primus.com.au>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: October 6, 2000 11:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > When you say nothing of substance to add are you talking for the
> whole list
> > or just making an annoying personal
> observation?RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:40 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be
> nice to see
> > > more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There
> are over 750
> > > subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from
> the same few
> > > people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled
> to chime in
> > on
> > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on
> the same
> > topic)
> > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess
> that many of
> > the
> > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they
> don't want to
> > get
> > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
> > >
> > > Ray G
> > > Colorado
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:20:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Why should this digest be any different?

You know, Ray, you just have no idea. At Healey events we can stay
away from you. Here on the list when you open your big fat mouth,
750 listers have to scramble to stay out of the way. Try and be a
little bit more considerate to the larger audience, that's all
Greg is asking.

Anticipating your reply (from previous experience) I just would
like to see if you have the grace to take your own medicine,
tongue in cheek, of course

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2000 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us have
to
> communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from me
because I show
> an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for the
bickering
> it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun. I've
been to many
> Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if they
weren't
> talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be
different? As
> you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so you
won't be
> missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> Subject: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> >
> > I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some
of the
> > information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
bickering that is
> > contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> >
> > Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have
the option
> to
> > mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain
about rather
> > than the entire list. That way I would not have to read
through 40 -50
> mails
> > daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment
of Healeys,
> > which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> >
> > If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument
and
> backstabbing
> > daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> >
> > To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my
thanks for the
> help
> > and valuable information I have received and also accept my
apology for
> the
> > opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know
the majority
> are
> > dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
unfortunately the
> ugly
> > minority seem to have taken control.
> >
> > Once again thank you and adieu.
> >
> > Greg Bankin
> > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > Sunshine Coast
> > Queensland
> > Australia
> >
> > '58 BN4
> >
> >
>
>



From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:20:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I sat on this list for many weeks before asking a question for fear the
question would be tooo stupid and everyone would know the answer except me.
It was months before I attemped to answer a question. I have made stupid or
should I say "unthought" statements for which I have been quickly corrected.
Everything has been a learning experience, the list has a lot to offer, it
has been about 2 years since I joined.  I feel relaxed joining in and expect
to be corrected from time to time. I feel everyone has something to offer
and something to learn, even the longtime listers. The delete key is within
easy reach and used often to sift. The bickering, to me, now only adds a bit
of colour, the benifits still outway....just remember you are asking the
world not just the guys at the corner. In doing so you will get many varied
opinions which makes for some good discussion, good and bad. So boys just
work on thicking up the skin a bit and sticking around. Its worth the ride
just hold on tight over the bumps....Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be nice to see
> more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There are over 750
> subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from the same few
> people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
on
> virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
topic)
> even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of
the
> silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to
get
> flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
>


From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:28:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Ray,
You know what you are doing and yes I can see the fun in it .. but 
this is unnecessary and is what we call 'shit-stirring' ... if there 
is a list admin.

Greg,
  It is refreshing to get any new opinion and it was good to have an 
Aussie contact back home .. take care mate. I understand why you 
wouldn't put up with petty bickering.
I plan to bring my RHD Healey back with me to Oz someday.

All the best
Rohan.
BN4 (currently residing in NoCal)

At 8:56 AM -0600 10/6/00, ray feehan wrote:
>You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us have to
>communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from me because I show
>an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for the bickering
>it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun. I've been to many
>Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if they weren't
>talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be different? As
>you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so you won't be
>missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
>Subject: Goodbye
>
>
>>
>>  I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>>
>>  I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
>>  information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that is
>>  contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
>>
>>  Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the option
>to
>>  mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about rather
>>  than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50
>mails
>>  daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of Healeys,
>>  which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
>>
>>  If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
>backstabbing
>>  daily, I would call my ex-wife.
>>
>>  To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for the
>help
>>  and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology for
>the
>>  opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the majority
>are
>>  dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately the
>ugly
>>  minority seem to have taken control.
>>
>>  Once again thank you and adieu.
>>
>>  Greg Bankin
>>  gregbankin@primus.com.au
>>  Sunshine Coast
>>  Queensland
>>  Australia
>>
>>  '58 BN4
>>
>>


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:55:52 EDT
Subject: Re: can you ID this car??


In a message dated 10/6/00 9:17:29 AM, frogeye@gateway.net writes:

<< Guys,

Have a gent here who is trying to ID an car circa 1947. 4dr sedan, has

vanden plas coach work, wood dash, no insignias, Vin # is BN1984-6?? Jag?

Rolls, Bentley?

The steering wheel insignia has shield with 6 designs in it??

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque

59 AH :{)  54 BN1 >>

Could even be a Healey, but except for the serial number, which might have a 
meaning for someone who already owns one of these, the info so far could 
apply to any of the cars you mentioned, plus things like Wolesleys, Bristols, 
etc. etc.
Any way of putting up a picture?  Second best, describe the radiator grille 
as accurately as you can.  Nearly all the British cars of the period had 
common styling cues in the grilles across all their lines, regardless of 
which company did the coachwork.
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 10:21:21 -0700
Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match

I found that 1986 Ford truck Wimbledon White is a very good (maybe even
exact) match.  I used the inside of the blanking plate (installed at the
factory with body color on both sides) for the clutch and brake master
cylinder holes used for the non-driver side of the car for comparison.  The
inside of this plate had never seen sun, dirt, ect.

I also talked to a Martin Senour rep who looked up WT3 (Ivory White) on his
computer, and he said MS #20024 is an exact match, but he did not have a
color sample of it.  The MS number for the Ford white is 1528, and Ditzler
is DAR 3876.

John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2

----------
> From: James Wentink <jdwentink@hotmail.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:53 AM
> 
> 
> Hello to the list!
> 
> I'm currently in the process of having my '63 BJ7 restored, and I'm
looking 
> for help to match the original color which was called IVORY WHITE.
> 
> Any inpust that you can give me for a proper color match would be greatly

> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Jim Wentink
> Bloomfield, NJ
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________________
> 
> 

From Ed Driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 12:57:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Hi Greg

Like Peter I would hope you stay on the list. There are always those who think
their humour is understood by all - a failing of their's - look beyond it. There
are folks on the list like Gary Anderson, Roger Moment, Doug Reid (aka Mr.
Finespanner), Adnan Merchant, Rich Chrysler, Mike Salter, Steve Byers, Russ
Bamsey, Ed "Just Brits", Dave "Frogeye", Pat Quinn, Steve Jowett - just a few 
that
quickly come to mind who make this a great place to visit each day.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8 - up and running
'89 Morgan 4/4

P.S. It's been -1 to -12 C up here in the great white north enough to cause 
anyone
to pause and reflect <grin>


"P.M. Pollock" wrote:

> Greg-
>
> Hope you'll reconsider.
>
> As I and others have noted, although we may be annoyed from time to time -and
> what is annoying will certainly vary from person to person- the worst behavior
> on this list is tame compared to most others.
>
> Regards,
>
> Pete Pollock
> BJ7
> N. California
>
> Greg Bankin wrote:
>
> > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.


From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 14:43:43 -0500
Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match

This wouldn't be a concours comment.... but the Wimbledon white he is
mentioning on the Ford Truck.... Really is a very nice color...I had one...
and I liked it enough to Paint the Race car that color... It's what I would
consider a True Ivory....

Keith 

----------
> From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> To: James Wentink <jdwentink@hotmail.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:21 PM
> 
> 
> I found that 1986 Ford truck Wimbledon White is a very good (maybe even
> exact) match.  I used the inside of the blanking plate (installed at the
> factory with body color on both sides) for the clutch and brake master
> cylinder holes used for the non-driver side of the car for comparison. 
The
> inside of this plate had never seen sun, dirt, ect.
> 
> I also talked to a Martin Senour rep who looked up WT3 (Ivory White) on
his
> computer, and he said MS #20024 is an exact match, but he did not have a
> color sample of it.  The MS number for the Ford white is 1528, and
Ditzler
> is DAR 3876.
> 
> John Snyder
> '60 BT7
> '61 BN7 MK2
> '62 BT7 MK2
> 
> ----------
> > From: James Wentink <jdwentink@hotmail.com>
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> > Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:53 AM
> > 
> > 
> > Hello to the list!
> > 
> > I'm currently in the process of having my '63 BJ7 restored, and I'm
> looking 
> > for help to match the original color which was called IVORY WHITE.
> > 
> > Any inpust that you can give me for a proper color match would be
greatly
> 
> > appreciated.
> > 
> > Thanks in advance
> > 
> > Jim Wentink
> > Bloomfield, NJ
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >
_________________________________________________________________________
> > 
> > 

From "Tim Rogers" <thr at stny.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 16:11:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
>
>
> . " Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
> on
> > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
> topic)
> > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of
> the
> > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to
> get
> > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions."
> >
> > Ray G
> > Colorado
> >
>

To the group:

I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted anything on
this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an owner). I do a lot
of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome, off topic
threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something that I've
seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good solution!
Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing very little
become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek barbs' rarely
come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list. Trying too hard
to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not  uncommon forms of
attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these inevitable problems
would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority. So what am I
suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what interests you
(Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking behavior' of
those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm not very 'thin
skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them privately if
you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from seeing me get
my comeuppance.

Tim Rogers - - - ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a 100-SIX (two
seater?)
thr@stny.rr.com


From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 16:20:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Just do what I do on this list and others, assign rules to your mail
browser to send anything from certain people straight to the trash bin,
while they may occasionally have something worthwhile to say it is
outweighed by the junk.
Also a motto to remember,
Never argue with an idiot, they will reduce you to their level and then
beat you with experience.

Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
AN5 BN4

From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 16:33:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Actually, Ray, I fully support your individual freedoms on list
and off list.

Real glad you came out of the woodwork on this issue.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; Greg Bankin
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2000 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> I personally think you have no clue. Any member of the list who
believes it
> should be modified to suit their personal tastes is better off
unsubscribing
> including you. I have the right to voice my opinions whether
they agree or
> disagree. I don't use profanity or call names and I'll continue
to post to
> the list whether you like it or not. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
> <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:20 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > Why should this digest be any different?
> >
> > You know, Ray, you just have no idea. At Healey events we can
stay
> > away from you. Here on the list when you open your big fat
mouth,
> > 750 listers have to scramble to stay out of the way. Try and
be a
> > little bit more considerate to the larger audience, that's all
> > Greg is asking.
> >
> > Anticipating your reply (from previous experience) I just
would
> > like to see if you have the grace to take your own medicine,
> > tongue in cheek, of course
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: October 6, 2000 10:56 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us
have
> > to
> > > communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from
me
> > because I show
> > > an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for
the
> > bickering
> > > it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun.
I've
> > been to many
> > > Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if
they
> > weren't
> > > talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be
> > different? As
> > > you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so
you
> > won't be
> > > missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> > > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> > > Subject: Goodbye
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> > > >
> > > > I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found
some
> > of the
> > > > information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
> > bickering that is
> > > > contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> > > >
> > > > Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also
have
> > the option
> > > to
> > > > mail their complaints directly to those they want to
complain
> > about rather
> > > > than the entire list. That way I would not have to read
> > through 40 -50
> > > mails
> > > > daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and
enjoyment
> > of Healeys,
> > > > which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> > > >
> > > > If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in
argument
> > and
> > > backstabbing
> > > > daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> > > >
> > > > To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my
> > thanks for the
> > > help
> > > > and valuable information I have received and also accept
my
> > apology for
> > > the
> > > > opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I
know
> > the majority
> > > are
> > > > dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
> > unfortunately the
> > > ugly
> > > > minority seem to have taken control.
> > > >
> > > > Once again thank you and adieu.
> > > >
> > > > Greg Bankin
> > > > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > > > Sunshine Coast
> > > > Queensland
> > > > Australia
> > > >
> > > > '58 BN4
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>



From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 14:54:41 -0700
Subject: list activity vs activity _on_ list

I don't know about the 729 or whatever it is others on the list but
about 90 percent of the time I will reply privately to postings, so
the list never sees my activity.  I do try to post to the list when
what I have to say may have general interest to Healey owners and
relevance to Austin Healeys. If I have learned something that cost me
time and effort (and sometimes blood too :-)  ), I will post that.
If I have an opinion or a guess or a "me too",  I mostly send it to
the poster and not to the list.  

The point I am trying to make is that a scanning of the postings to
the list underestimates the amount of relevant communication going on
that has been generated by the list.  

-Roland
BJ7, BN1



From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 15:46:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I've been working towards getting my BN1 back on the road for about 6 years.
Obviously I don't work at it all day every day. Sometimes weeks even months
go by before I can get back at it. Still, every day I read the list.

No, I don't like the 'bickering.' Nor do I care for the 'jibes' since, for
the most part I'm not 'in' on the 'joke.' There may even be too much
non-Healey stuff on the listing. And I certainly do approve of the listers
going off list to iron out their petty, sometimes ridiculous, differences. I
don't even bridle at the 'commerciality' of Norman Nock's comments followed
by his business address. In fact, I applaude it. (Wonder why Moss doesn't
have anyone watching this list, responding and providing their business
address, et al?)

Watching this list for about 3 years, I can say  I've come away with
worthwhile bits and pieces of information every time I've read it.

What's more, I have developed my own personal contacts list with brief
descriptions of the area of expertise of the individuals who appear from
time to time on the list (NN among them). Thus, I have an active directory
for information sources so that by the time I get to that specific area of
rebuilding, I can, if necessary, contact the most knowledgeable people in
the world on the subject of big Healeys. Nowhere else would that be
available to me -- certainly not literally at my fingertips.

So, fellas, keep on keeping on. If you want to continue with your oft times
childish 'tantrums'  and your 'flaming,' please do so. I will remain a
lister as long as there is one. Too bad for Mr. Goodbye, maybe, for him, the
'trains aren't running on time.' That is, he apparently doesn't much care
for 'democracy.' Worse, he is passing up much information that, chances are,
he won't find anyplace else. Surely not as easily.

(Signed) Ron Somers
BN1

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:12:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Goodbye

In a message dated 10/06/2000 5:56:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< I don't even bridle at the 'commerciality' of Norman Nock's comments 
followed
 by his business address. >>

In reality, Ron, it is a List "NoNo".  You can check what MJB 
(majordomo@autox.team.net) has to say about "business" use by going to the 
SOL page, Lists, etc., etc., etc. (follow the "trail").  You can also read 
the "instructions" which arrived with the confirmation of your 
"subscription", which, of course, 95% of 'subscribers' DO NOT.

<<In fact, I applaude it. (Wonder why Moss doesn't
 have anyone watching this list, responding and providing their business
 address, et al?) >>

There are three ( I believe ), not including myself (although I do not "work" 
for Moss, I am just a lowly Distributor).

Cheers..................

          Ed

PS:  Here: violation of sorts.

Ed Kaler Proprietor
" Just Brits "
5624 South Washington
Hinsdale, IL         60521
V/M = 630-325-6113
Fax = 630-325-7650
JustBrits@MediaOne.net
ed@justbrits.com
www.justbrits.com
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)(wearing ILL#  AH BJ 7 plate)
'73 Black Tulip MGB  (Muriel)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Member (over a dozen other clubs and I am too lazy to list<G>)

From BGAHC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:48:31 EDT
Subject: Start your own Healey List


The bitchin about the list reminded me of something I wanted to share. I 
recently started two mailing lists for members of our local Healey club and 
another for the local British Sports Car Club. (I do the web sites for both) 
Both have been well received.

I used ListBot at listbot.com. It is a free service that includes a small ad 
at the bottom of each email to pay for it. The ads are not obtrusive. They 
offer several versions. A discussion list like this one where anyone can post 
is what I used. You can select an announcement list where only the list owner 
can mail out, no one can mail in.  Moderated lists where the list owner has 
to approve all mail to the list and several other options.

We use it to remind members about meetings and events. Members use it when 
they are looking for parts or tools. Not much traffic on the list, maybe a 
few messages per week. It does effect our attendance at events by providing a 
gentle reminder. Membership in the list is so far dominated by the "inactive 
members." You know the ones who don't come to events because they are too far 
away or turned off by club cliques. I was pleased by that because they are 
the ones we wanted to reach and support.

It was easy to set up and is a nice benefit to members of the club. Try it 
out, they provide a web page for members to join or the HTML to add to your 
existing page

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY 
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com

From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:37:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Better from out of the woodwork than from under a rock.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> Actually, Ray, I fully support your individual freedoms on list
> and off list.
>
> Real glad you came out of the woodwork on this issue.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; Greg Bankin
> <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: October 6, 2000 2:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> > I personally think you have no clue. Any member of the list who
> believes it
> > should be modified to suit their personal tastes is better off
> unsubscribing
> > including you. I have the right to voice my opinions whether
> they agree or
> > disagree. I don't use profanity or call names and I'll continue
> to post to
> > the list whether you like it or not. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> > To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
> > <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:20 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Why should this digest be any different?
> > >
> > > You know, Ray, you just have no idea. At Healey events we can
> stay
> > > away from you. Here on the list when you open your big fat
> mouth,
> > > 750 listers have to scramble to stay out of the way. Try and
> be a
> > > little bit more considerate to the larger audience, that's all
> > > Greg is asking.
> > >
> > > Anticipating your reply (from previous experience) I just
> would
> > > like to see if you have the grace to take your own medicine,
> > > tongue in cheek, of course
> > >
> > > Mike L.
> > > 60A,67E,59Bug
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > > To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List
> > > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: October 6, 2000 10:56 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us
> have
> > > to
> > > > communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from
> me
> > > because I show
> > > > an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for
> the
> > > bickering
> > > > it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun.
> I've
> > > been to many
> > > > Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if
> they
> > > weren't
> > > > talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be
> > > different? As
> > > > you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so
> you
> > > won't be
> > > > missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> > > > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> > > > Subject: Goodbye
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found
> some
> > > of the
> > > > > information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
> > > bickering that is
> > > > > contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also
> have
> > > the option
> > > > to
> > > > > mail their complaints directly to those they want to
> complain
> > > about rather
> > > > > than the entire list. That way I would not have to read
> > > through 40 -50
> > > > mails
> > > > > daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and
> enjoyment
> > > of Healeys,
> > > > > which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> > > > >
> > > > > If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in
> argument
> > > and
> > > > backstabbing
> > > > > daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> > > > >
> > > > > To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my
> > > thanks for the
> > > > help
> > > > > and valuable information I have received and also accept
> my
> > > apology for
> > > > the
> > > > > opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I
> know
> > > the majority
> > > > are
> > > > > dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
> > > unfortunately the
> > > > ugly
> > > > > minority seem to have taken control.
> > > > >
> > > > > Once again thank you and adieu.
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg Bankin
> > > > > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > > > > Sunshine Coast
> > > > > Queensland
> > > > > Australia
> > > > >
> > > > > '58 BN4
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:58:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

At 59 spreading my legs results in a grimace and a 911 call.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; <CIAG6@aol.com>;
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> Geez, Ray - are your legs spread and is there a grin on your face
> when you lob those slams? Or are you just a plain vanilla jerk?
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: <CIAG6@aol.com>; <gregbankin@primus.com.au>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: October 6, 2000 11:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > When you say nothing of substance to add are you talking for the
> whole list
> > or just making an annoying personal
> observation?RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:40 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be
> nice to see
> > > more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There
> are over 750
> > > subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from
> the same few
> > > people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled
> to chime in
> > on
> > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on
> the same
> > topic)
> > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess
> that many of
> > the
> > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they
> don't want to
> > get
> > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
> > >
> > > Ray G
> > > Colorado
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:02:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I'm also not a concours guy and I've teased Gary et al but you have to
respect their passion and dedication to correctly restoring Healeys. I read
all their posts for the info whether I'll use it or not. Too much knowledge
is not a dangerous thing. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>; "Greg Bankin"
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> Hey I guess I am in the Silent Majority here.. Well I didn't start out so
> Silent....  I just got tired of being Flamed for not caring about Concours
> and Cutting up a Bugeye to run it on the Salt....
>
> There are still some wonderful folks here... and Rodger Moments comments
and
> others that do care about Concours are truely interesting to read... ( I
> still don't care... but they do so it's interesting to see how they go
down
> thier road ) It's a Live and Let live way of Life... oh and taking the
time
> to enjoy someone else's passion....
>
> Keith ( why Yes it's been a Hoot )
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
> To: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:37 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > Greg-
> >
> > Hope you'll reconsider.
> >
> > As I and others have noted, although we may be annoyed from time to
> time -and
> > what is annoying will certainly vary from person to person- the worst
> behavior
> > on this list is tame compared to most others.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Pete Pollock
> > BJ7
> > N. California
> >
> > Greg Bankin wrote:
> >
> > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> >
> >
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:05:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

A spokesman for the list! Were you elected or did you just claim an open
position? Rayfixitandriveitfeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> Why should this digest be any different?
>
> You know, Ray, you just have no idea. At Healey events we can stay
> away from you. Here on the list when you open your big fat mouth,
> 750 listers have to scramble to stay out of the way. Try and be a
> little bit more considerate to the larger audience, that's all
> Greg is asking.
>
> Anticipating your reply (from previous experience) I just would
> like to see if you have the grace to take your own medicine,
> tongue in cheek, of course
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: October 6, 2000 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us have
> to
> > communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from me
> because I show
> > an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for the
> bickering
> > it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun. I've
> been to many
> > Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if they
> weren't
> > talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be
> different? As
> > you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so you
> won't be
> > missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> > Subject: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> > >
> > > I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some
> of the
> > > information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
> bickering that is
> > > contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> > >
> > > Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have
> the option
> > to
> > > mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain
> about rather
> > > than the entire list. That way I would not have to read
> through 40 -50
> > mails
> > > daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment
> of Healeys,
> > > which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> > >
> > > If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument
> and
> > backstabbing
> > > daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> > >
> > > To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my
> thanks for the
> > help
> > > and valuable information I have received and also accept my
> apology for
> > the
> > > opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know
> the majority
> > are
> > > dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
> unfortunately the
> > ugly
> > > minority seem to have taken control.
> > >
> > > Once again thank you and adieu.
> > >
> > > Greg Bankin
> > > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > > Sunshine Coast
> > > Queensland
> > > Australia
> > >
> > > '58 BN4
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:12:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

To me the "shit stirring" begins with the original post. You can't expect
all 750 listers to agree with everything you say. If you have a strong
opinion by all means post it but don't call it "shit stirring" if someone
disagrees with you. Take it like a man "mate". RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rohan Marr" <rohan@marketocracy.com>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> Ray,
> You know what you are doing and yes I can see the fun in it .. but
> this is unnecessary and is what we call 'shit-stirring' ... if there
> is a list admin.
>
> Greg,
>   It is refreshing to get any new opinion and it was good to have an
> Aussie contact back home .. take care mate. I understand why you
> wouldn't put up with petty bickering.
> I plan to bring my RHD Healey back with me to Oz someday.
>
> All the best
> Rohan.
> BN4 (currently residing in NoCal)
>
> At 8:56 AM -0600 10/6/00, ray feehan wrote:
> >You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us have to
> >communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from me because I
show
> >an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for the bickering
> >it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun. I've been to
many
> >Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if they weren't
> >talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be different? As
> >you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so you won't be
> >missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> >To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> >Subject: Goodbye
> >
> >
> >>
> >>  I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> >>
> >>  I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found some of the
> >>  information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the bickering that
is
> >>  contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> >>
> >>  Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also have the
option
> >to
> >>  mail their complaints directly to those they want to complain about
rather
> >>  than the entire list. That way I would not have to read through 40 -50
> >mails
> >>  daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and enjoyment of
Healeys,
> >>  which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> >>
> >>  If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in argument and
> >backstabbing
> >>  daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> >>
> >>  To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my thanks for
the
> >help
> >>  and valuable information I have received and also accept my apology
for
> >the
> >>  opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I know the
majority
> >are
> >>  dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but unfortunately
the
> >ugly
> >>  minority seem to have taken control.
> >>
> >>  Once again thank you and adieu.
> >>
> >>  Greg Bankin
> >>  gregbankin@primus.com.au
> >>  Sunshine Coast
> >>  Queensland
> >>  Australia
> >>
> >>  '58 BN4
> >>
> >>
>
>


From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 21:15:22 -0400
Subject: Ivory white

Ford Wimbelton white if I remember correctly was a little whiter than WT.3
I  had a new truck, and yes it's pretty
I don't know which brand you prefere , ppg's # for OEW ( Ivory white ) is
8177.

You can contact me off list if you need any add. info

Carroll Phillips        Top Down Restorations
                           Washingtonville, New York


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:17:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I was just the opposite. I knew my Healey knowledge was at best rudimentary
but I was thrilled to have my "inane to some" questions answered.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <CIAG6@aol.com>; <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> I sat on this list for many weeks before asking a question for fear the
> question would be tooo stupid and everyone would know the answer except
me.
> It was months before I attemped to answer a question. I have made stupid
or
> should I say "unthought" statements for which I have been quickly
corrected.
> Everything has been a learning experience, the list has a lot to offer, it
> has been about 2 years since I joined.  I feel relaxed joining in and
expect
> to be corrected from time to time. I feel everyone has something to offer
> and something to learn, even the longtime listers. The delete key is
within
> easy reach and used often to sift. The bickering, to me, now only adds a
bit
> of colour, the benifits still outway....just remember you are asking the
> world not just the guys at the corner. In doing so you will get many
varied
> opinions which makes for some good discussion, good and bad. So boys just
> work on thicking up the skin a bit and sticking around. Its worth the ride
> just hold on tight over the bumps....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >
> > I fully agree.  I'd like to also add one comment.  It would be nice to
see
> > more postings from the "silent" majority on the list.  There are over
750
> > subscribers but it gets pretty tiresome seeing postings from the same
few
> > people over and over.  Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime
in
> on
> > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
> topic)
> > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of
> the
> > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to
> get
> > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions.
> >
> > Ray G
> > Colorado
> >
>
>


From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:28:20 -0700
Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match

Keith may have a point.  Under artificial light, the Ford Wimbledon White
looks quite Ivory.  In real sunlight, it looks much lighter. (contrary to
popular belief, we do have real sunlight here on the Olympic peninsula of
Washington State)

Editorgary...your comments please.  You saw the chassis at the West Coast
meet at Ocean Shores.

It is possible that the color of the blanking plate darkened over the
years, even though it never saw sun or dirt.  Therefore, if I had a 40 year
old AH 3000 which had been kept in enclosed storage and had 50 miles on it,
with the documented original paint; would the "darkened"  Ivory White get
me a points deduction in Concours judging?

John

----------
> From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
> To: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>; James Wentink
<jdwentink@hotmail.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:43 PM
> 
> 
> This wouldn't be a concours comment.... but the Wimbledon white he is
> mentioning on the Ford Truck.... Really is a very nice color...I had
one...
> and I liked it enough to Paint the Race car that color... It's what I
would
> consider a True Ivory....
> 
> Keith 
> 
> ----------
> > From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> > To: James Wentink <jdwentink@hotmail.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> > Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 12:21 PM
> > 
> > 
> > I found that 1986 Ford truck Wimbledon White is a very good (maybe even
> > exact) match.  I used the inside of the blanking plate (installed at
the
> > factory with body color on both sides) for the clutch and brake master
> > cylinder holes used for the non-driver side of the car for comparison. 
> The
> > inside of this plate had never seen sun, dirt, ect.
> > 
> > I also talked to a Martin Senour rep who looked up WT3 (Ivory White) on
> his
> > computer, and he said MS #20024 is an exact match, but he did not have
a
> > color sample of it.  The MS number for the Ford white is 1528, and
> Ditzler
> > is DAR 3876.
> > 
> > John Snyder
> > '60 BT7
> > '61 BN7 MK2
> > '62 BT7 MK2
> > 
> > ----------
> > > From: James Wentink <jdwentink@hotmail.com>
> > > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match
> > > Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:53 AM
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hello to the list!
> > > 
> > > I'm currently in the process of having my '63 BJ7 restored, and I'm
> > looking 
> > > for help to match the original color which was called IVORY WHITE.
> > > 
> > > Any inpust that you can give me for a proper color match would be
> greatly
> > 
> > > appreciated.
> > > 
> > > Thanks in advance
> > > 
> > > Jim Wentink
> > > Bloomfield, NJ
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >
> _________________________________________________________________________
> > > 
> > > 

From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:37:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I certainly don't expect everyone to appreciate my tongue in cheek posts. I
do expect to have my opinions evaluated calmly and accepted or rejected.
Thats a great lineup of digest contributors you mentioned but just out of
curiousity what have you posted lately to make the digest a great place to
visit?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> Hi Greg
>
> Like Peter I would hope you stay on the list. There are always those who
think
> their humour is understood by all - a failing of their's - look beyond it.
There
> are folks on the list like Gary Anderson, Roger Moment, Doug Reid (aka Mr.
> Finespanner), Adnan Merchant, Rich Chrysler, Mike Salter, Steve Byers,
Russ
> Bamsey, Ed "Just Brits", Dave "Frogeye", Pat Quinn, Steve Jowett - just a
few that
> quickly come to mind who make this a great place to visit each day.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8 - up and running
> '89 Morgan 4/4
>
> P.S. It's been -1 to -12 C up here in the great white north enough to
cause anyone
> to pause and reflect <grin>
>
>
> "P.M. Pollock" wrote:
>
> > Greg-
> >
> > Hope you'll reconsider.
> >
> > As I and others have noted, although we may be annoyed from time to
time -and
> > what is annoying will certainly vary from person to person- the worst
behavior
> > on this list is tame compared to most others.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Pete Pollock
> > BJ7
> > N. California
> >
> > Greg Bankin wrote:
> >
> > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:40:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

A Volkswagen and you're commenting on Healey owners? A pox on you.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Rogers" <thr@stny.rr.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; <CIAG6@aol.com>;
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
>
> > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> >
> >
> > . " Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
> > on
> > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
> > topic)
> > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many
of
> > the
> > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want
to
> > get
> > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions."
> > >
> > > Ray G
> > > Colorado
> > >
> >
>
> To the group:
>
> I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted anything on
> this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an owner). I do a
lot
> of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome, off topic
> threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something that I've
> seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good solution!
> Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing very little
> become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek barbs' rarely
> come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list. Trying too
hard
> to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not  uncommon forms of
> attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these inevitable
problems
> would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority. So what am
I
> suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what interests
you
> (Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking behavior' of
> those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm not very 'thin
> skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them privately if
> you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from seeing me
get
> my comeuppance.
>
> Tim Rogers - - - ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a 100-SIX (two
> seater?)
> thr@stny.rr.com
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:41:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I just put you on my "trash list" RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LBCarNut" <LBCarNut@carolina.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> 
> Just do what I do on this list and others, assign rules to your mail
> browser to send anything from certain people straight to the trash bin,
> while they may occasionally have something worthwhile to say it is
> outweighed by the junk.
> Also a motto to remember,
> Never argue with an idiot, they will reduce you to their level and then
> beat you with experience.
> 
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
> AN5 BN4
> 


From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 19:27:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Tim-

Remember- reasonable minds can disagree.  In our garage Austin cohabits with his
consort Melba, the family's faithful '69 Karmann-Ghia convertible (just restored
-British racing green & beautiful).  I wouldn't part with either of them.
Opposites attract, so they get on just fine.

Pete Pollock
BJ7
N. California


> A Volkswagen and you're commenting on Healey owners? A pox on you.

>
> ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a 100-SIX (two
>  seater?)


From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:32:14 EDT
Subject: Re: goodbye

<< << I don't even bridle at the 'commerciality' of Norman Nock's comments 
 followed
  by his business address. >>
  >>
 Whoa there! That guy has saved my ass more than once. Don't go there! In 
fact, after I post a question about where can I get a part, after he says I 
got one I want his address!  Mike Salter, the guys in the Dallas Club, etc 
may see some business come from this list but I guarantee those of use who 
work on our own cars get a lot more than we pay for. BTW, when one of the 
criticisms leveled at Gary about his new book (got my autographed copy, 
thanks Gary) was the lack of color pictures, Nock goes and burns a couple a 
rolls of Kodachrome of several of his great restorations and makes them 
available for what, 30 bucks? They're great, I may order the other two sets 
just to have them! Does anyone say good job? NO, because he is doing it as a 
"commercial venture". I think the guys who do this for a living offer the 
best advice on this list. I mean, I like hearing about a guy who did a three 
year nut and bolt restoration, but when my OD is down, I like some input (no 
pun) from somebody who fixes 9 a month. I don't think anybody is getting rich 
off this list, in fact I don't think anyone gets rich fixing up old Healeys. 
In my experience, they love old cars, have got "the knack" and deserve our 
respect. Hell, I may even buy a Texas cooler! As for the listers who fight 
and flame over bullshit that has nothing to do with Healeys, I have found 
that that is, in part, an Internet phenomenon not confined to just  the 
Healey  group, but particularly after owning a Healey for over 25 years and 
meeting Healey people from coast to coast (with and without my BN4) I find 
that kind of behavior more appropriate, say on the Porsche group. I mean, if 
you are seriously frightened by Firestone tires, don't tell me in the next 
sentence to you had a fun 80 mph blast down a country road in a car that has 
a 3/4" steel rod going from the front bumper to your aorta., I mean Jeez SM.

Scott McPherson
BN4 Longbridge
Lake Charles LA

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri,  6 Oct 2000 21:47:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Goodbye

WOW !!  with credentials like that you could be eligible to attend a TEXAS 
HEALEY ROUNDUP ( if you could find a sponsor )  Note: for anyone who may find 
this offensive, my sincere apologies in advance.
----- Original Message -----

From: JustBrits@aol.com
To: arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Goodbye
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 19:12:15 EDT

 
In a message dated 10/06/2000 5:56:04 PM Central Daylight Time,  
arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net writes: 
 
<< I don't even bridle at the 'commerciality' of Norman Nock's comments  
followed 
 by his business address. >> 
 
In reality, Ron, it is a List "NoNo".  You can check what MJB  
(majordomo@autox.team.net) has to say about "business" use by going to the  
SOL page, Lists, etc., etc., etc. (follow the "trail").  You can also read  
the "instructions" which arrived with the confirmation of your  
"subscription", which, of course, 95% of 'subscribers' DO NOT. 
 
<<In fact, I applaude it. (Wonder why Moss doesn't 
 have anyone watching this list, responding and providing their business 
 address, et al?) >> 
 
There are three ( I believe ), not including myself (although I do not "work"  
for Moss, I am just a lowly Distributor). 
 
Cheers.................. 
 
          Ed 
 
PS:  Here: violation of sorts. 
 
Ed Kaler Proprietor 
" Just Brits " 
5624 South Washington 
Hinsdale, IL         60521 
V/M = 630-325-6113 
Fax = 630-325-7650 
JustBrits@MediaOne.net 
ed@justbrits.com 
www.justbrits.com 
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)(wearing ILL#  AH BJ 7 plate) 
'73 Black Tulip MGB  (Muriel) 
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years) 
Member, AHCUSA 
Member (over a dozen other clubs and I am too lazy to list<G>) 



From "Tim Rogers" <thr at stny.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:47:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye


----- Original Message -----
From: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "Tim Rogers" <thr@stny.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>" A Volkswagen and you're commenting on Healey owners? A pox on you."

    In a free society, and an un-moderated mailing list, even a dump truck
driver can comment on Healey owners.
I get the feeling that there are quite a few Healey owners who are not very
happy about being categorized with you.
You and your therapist ought to address the apparent need for you to
overindulge in 'clever banter with tongue in cheek'
    Cordially,
                        Tim Rogers - 'Healey owner someday in the future'
                                                           < thr@stny.rr.com
>



From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:59:44 EDT
Subject: Re: goodbye

In a message dated 10/06/2000 9:36:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
RAWDAWGS@aol.com writes:

<< << << I don't even bridle at the 'commerciality' of Norman Nock's comments 
  followed
   by his business address. >>
   >> >>

As I replied to Scott (cause List post had not arrived):


Scott:

   I did not write that.  Better learn to READ the mail.  All I said was it 
IS against the majordomo's rules.  Geez.  I've only been doing 28 years.  
gimme a break.

Ed

PS:  NOT including LBC stuff for the prior 14+

From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:08:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Feehan said>>>>>I have the right to voice my opinions whether they
agree or
disagree<<<<<<<.

Perhaps, if you're advocating a double standard, it's not a
problem. An honest hypocrite is better than the other kind.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; Greg Bankin
<gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 6, 2000 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


> A spokesman for the list! Were you elected or did you just claim
an open
> position? Rayfixitandriveitfeehan.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Greg Bankin"
> <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:20 AM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> > Why should this digest be any different?
> >
> > You know, Ray, you just have no idea. At Healey events we can
stay
> > away from you. Here on the list when you open your big fat
mouth,
> > 750 listers have to scramble to stay out of the way. Try and
be a
> > little bit more considerate to the larger audience, that's all
> > Greg is asking.
> >
> > Anticipating your reply (from previous experience) I just
would
> > like to see if you have the grace to take your own medicine,
> > tongue in cheek, of course
> >
> > Mike L.
> > 60A,67E,59Bug
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: ray feehan <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> > To: Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; Healey List
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: October 6, 2000 10:56 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > >
> > > You thought wrong. This list is the only forum most of us
have
> > to
> > > communicate with each other and you'll get no apology from
me
> > because I show
> > > an interest in other subjects other than my Healey. As for
the
> > bickering
> > > it's mostly tongue in cheek and in my humble opinion fun.
I've
> > been to many
> > > Healey events and no one was excluded from conversations if
they
> > weren't
> > > talking exclusively about Healeys. Why should the digest be
> > different? As
> > > you admitted your contribution to the digest was minimal so
you
> > won't be
> > > missed by me. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin@primus.com.au>
> > > To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:47 AM
> > > Subject: Goodbye
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I just wanted to say goodbye to the list.
> > > >
> > > > I have not had a lot of input to the list but have found
some
> > of the
> > > > information and tips very helpful, BUT I am sick of the
> > bickering that is
> > > > contained in 80 % of e-mails on the list.
> > > >
> > > > Yes I know I have a delete button, but the offenders also
have
> > the option
> > > to
> > > > mail their complaints directly to those they want to
complain
> > about rather
> > > > than the entire list. That way I would not have to read
> > through 40 -50
> > > mails
> > > > daily to find the 6-7 that pertain to the upkeep and
enjoyment
> > of Healeys,
> > > > which I THOUGHT was the intention of this list
> > > >
> > > > If I wanted to be forced into becoming involved in
argument
> > and
> > > backstabbing
> > > > daily, I would call my ex-wife.
> > > >
> > > > To those who stay out of this activity, please accept my
> > thanks for the
> > > help
> > > > and valuable information I have received and also accept
my
> > apology for
> > > the
> > > > opinion I have formed of those involved on the list. I
know
> > the majority
> > > are
> > > > dedicated to Healeys and the enjoyment they give, but
> > unfortunately the
> > > ugly
> > > > minority seem to have taken control.
> > > >
> > > > Once again thank you and adieu.
> > > >
> > > > Greg Bankin
> > > > gregbankin@primus.com.au
> > > > Sunshine Coast
> > > > Queensland
> > > > Australia
> > > >
> > > > '58 BN4
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>



From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 21:08:30 -0700
Subject: Main bearing studs

Hi All,

I have been off the list for a while as I was buying and fixing up a house. 
That is now under control and I am back to putting my 62 BT7 engine back 
together again.

I need to know the torque value for the main bearing studs for a '62 BT7 
engine. Would someone be so kind to email me with an answer?

Thanks
John


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 23:27:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Out of curiousity a therapist I contacted advised your best solution would
be to take two BN4's and e-mail the digest in the morning.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Rogers" <thr@stny.rr.com>
To: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>; "Neil Trelenberg"
<neilberg@telus.net>; <CIAG6@aol.com>; <gregbankin@primus.com.au>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
> To: "Tim Rogers" <thr@stny.rr.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
>
>
> >" A Volkswagen and you're commenting on Healey owners? A pox on you."
>
>     In a free society, and an un-moderated mailing list, even a dump truck
> driver can comment on Healey owners.
> I get the feeling that there are quite a few Healey owners who are not
very
> happy about being categorized with you.
> You and your therapist ought to address the apparent need for you to
> overindulge in 'clever banter with tongue in cheek'
>     Cordially,
>                         Tim Rogers - 'Healey owner someday in the future'
>                                                            <
thr@stny.rr.com
> >
>
>
>


From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 12:01:50 EDT
Subject: New Topic

Hi guys, for a new topic of discussion, I am having the following problem now 
that I am on the home stretch with the assembly of my BN6. 
I bought this car as an unfinished project and in general am very pleased 
with the quality of previous work and the parts both new and used that I 
received with the car. What I have discovered is that I have about 1/4" 
positive camber on the front wheels when in the dead ahead position. This BN6 
has front disc brake conversion and Koni shock conversion but still unitizes 
the standard Armstrong hydraulic shocker. I believe the front shock mounting 
pads may have been replaced, possibly incorrectly aligned. The trunions are 
installed correctly. My question is;  how effective are the adjustable 
trunnion bushings vs the eccentric bushing shaft or the eccentric mounting 
bolts for the hydraulic shocks? And does anyone know of a source for the 
eccentric mounting bolts for the shocks?

Thanks and Cheers,

John Wright

From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 08:40:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs

Hi John,

As far as I am aware ther is no published value for the tightening of the studs
into the block but the main bearing nuts should be tightened to900 lb in (75 lb
ft).
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/



john spaur wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have been off the list for a while as I was buying and fixing up a house.
> That is now under control and I am back to putting my 62 BT7 engine back
> together again.
>
> I need to know the torque value for the main bearing studs for a '62 BT7
> engine. Would someone be so kind to email me with an answer?
>
> Thanks
> John






From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 07:50:09 -0500
Subject: Torque Value Main Bearings

John Spaur wanted to know the torque value of the main bearing nuts.
According to Chilton's Repair Manual that value is 75 ft lb.

Don
BN7


From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:19:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs

75ftlbs.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146
----- Original Message -----
From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Main bearing studs


>
> Hi All,
>
> I have been off the list for a while as I was buying and fixing up a
house.
> That is now under control and I am back to putting my 62 BT7 engine back
> together again.
>
> I need to know the torque value for the main bearing studs for a '62 BT7
> engine. Would someone be so kind to email me with an answer?
>
> Thanks
> John
>
>


From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 10:34:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Goodbye,etc.

When I read Greg's email about the list, I sent him, and ONLY him an email 
agreeing with him and asking him to reconsider and use the digest version of 
our list.
I have just deleted 37 messages about "Goodbye".  The whole point of his 
leaving, I guess, was missed by 30 or more listers as they continued to 
clutter up the list again.  The more I think about it, the more I agree with 
him.
Can't you people dump on each other in private?
Rudy Streng

From David Mosher <dmosher at videotron.ca>
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 11:08:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye,etc.

My keyboard has a button labelled "Delete".  In combination with the mouse and
the "Ctrl" key, it's remarkably useful for ridding yourself of those posts which
you don't want to read.  Instead of dissing those who (IMHO) make an effort to
contribute to the list, may I suggest this foolproof technique.  It's like
changing the channel if you don't like the show.  You don't HAVE to participate
in what you don't like, but all 700 or so listers have somewhat differnt tastes.

Can't we all just get along?

Dave Mosher

CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:

> When I read Greg's email about the list, I sent him, and ONLY him an email
> agreeing with him and asking him to reconsider and use the digest version of
> our list.
> I have just deleted 37 messages about "Goodbye".  The whole point of his
> leaving, I guess, was missed by 30 or more listers as they continued to
> clutter up the list again.  The more I think about it, the more I agree with
> him.
> Can't you people dump on each other in private?
> Rudy Streng


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:31:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

There
> are folks on the list like Gary Anderson, Roger Moment, Doug Reid (aka Mr.
> Finespanner), Adnan Merchant, Rich Chrysler, Mike Salter, Steve Byers,
Russ
> Bamsey, Ed "Just Brits", Dave "Frogeye", Pat Quinn, Steve Jowett - just a
few that
> quickly come to mind who make this a great place to visit each day.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
And don't forget Keith Pennell!  :)

Keith Pennell


From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 12:05:15 EDT
Subject: Re: goodbye

I stand corrected, apologies to all offended, I responded to a quotation in a 
post and not the whole post, I either missed it or didn't get it. I often 
cruise the list late at night after a long days work, while enjoying a 
cocktail (reading not working) and sometimes miss a message here and there, 
leading to errata. Scottfixitanddrinkit.

From "John  R. Draxler" <jdrax at badger.tds.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 12:02:01 -0500
Subject: am I on right list

just joined this list to hear about healey resto and maintenance

seems most of the messages do not have anything to do with healeys

anyone restoring a BJ8 out there?

where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
panels


    http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
        7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps



From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:24:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs

John,
As far as I know there is no published spec for the main studs torque.
I usually go with 20 lb./ft.. It's more important that they be torqued
evenly than heavily.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 12:08 AM
Subject: Main bearing studs


>
> Hi All,
>
> I have been off the list for a while as I was buying and fixing up a
house.
> That is now under control and I am back to putting my 62 BT7 engine back
> together again.
>
> I need to know the torque value for the main bearing studs for a '62 BT7
> engine. Would someone be so kind to email me with an answer?
>
> Thanks
> John
>


From "Tim Rogers" <thr at stny.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:36:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye


----- Original Message -----
From: "ray feehan" <feehanr@cadvision.com>
To: "Tim Rogers" <thr@stny.rr.com>  Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: Goodbye
>

>
> "Out of curiousity a therapist I contacted advised your best solution
would
> be to take two BN4's and e-mail the digest in the morning."
>
> RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
>

   You're obviously one of those people who always needs to have the last
word. This compulsion (?) that drives you to outwit your many adversaries on
this list with barbs of clever 'tongue in cheek' seems silly and
egotistical. I'm sorry that I might have sunk to your level by responding
'in kind'.
   I have learned a lot about Austin Healeys since subscribing to this list
and I have found that most of the enthusiasts who post here are informative
and friendly. Too bad that you can't bring yourself to be either!
  Out of courtesy to the other members of this list, I'm am now going to
STOP communicating with you through this list.

                      Tim Rogers   < thr@stny.rr.com >  (would still like to
someday own a 100 or a 100-SIX)



From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 11:55:27 -0700
Subject: Chassis Black Question

I just finished my first set of front end suspension parts in "POR 15"
chassis black.  I thinned it 15% with POR Solvent and sprayed two coats
with an HVLP gun at 10psi head pressure.  I'm disappointed with the
results as the paint appears too thick even in the absence of runs.  Do
any of the listers have a better process for applying this product?
Doug Miller
BN 2
Norton 850 Commando


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 17:29:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Ivory white


In a message dated 10/6/00 6:18:17 PM, bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:

<< I don't know which brand you prefere , ppg's # for OEW ( Ivory white ) is
8177. >>

Worth noting Carroll's combination of the two colors.  OEW, old english 
white, and Ivory White were the same color. Just changed the name.  The 
color, incidentally, with the same name was also used by Jaguar, at least in 
the early and mid-sixties. Another interesting point (to me at least): "Ivory 
White" and "Pale Ivory White" are two very different colors.  Pale Ivory 
White is what I might call pale yellow -- a few shades lighter than primrose 
-- but distinctly yellow, rather than the creamy white of "Ivory White"

Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 17:35:41 EDT
Subject: Re: '63 BJ7 - IVORY WHITE - help with color match


In a message dated 10/6/00 6:39:05 PM, johnahsn@olypen.com writes:

<< It is possible that the color of the blanking plate darkened over the
years, even though it never saw sun or dirt.  Therefore, if I had a 40 year
old AH 3000 which had been kept in enclosed storage and had 50 miles on it,
with the documented original paint; would the "darkened"  Ivory White get
me a points deduction in Concours judging? >>

No -- One thing that we try not to do is deduct for a shading difference in 
colors.  There are several colors where the exact shade is a point of 
controversy and the concours committee really doesn't have any better 
information --- nor are our judges any more sensitive to subtle color 
differences -- than anyone else. As a result, we'll be pretty lenient when 
judging color shades.  About the only time that we'll even try is among the 
three different shades of red -- carmine, Reno, and Colorado -- and the two 
different shades of BRG.  The differences among these shades are distinct 
enough that there could be a deduction if, for example, a person decided he 
didn't like the orangey shade of Colorado Red or the yellowish shade of the 
first BRG, and decided to use instead a Ferrari Red or a Jaguar BRG.

So, if your car is painted white, and the color isn't glaringly refrigerator 
white, but rather has at least some yellow in it, you shouldn't get a 
deduction.

Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:03:02 EDT
Subject: Re: am I on right list


In a message dated 10/7/00 10:03:58 AM, jdrax@badger.tds.net writes:

<< 
where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
panels >>

If you're going to do the interior in the original vinyl, rather than in the 
optional leather, the Moss kits are as good as anyone's.  Installation, 
however makes the difference between a good resto and a great one.  If you 
aren't really good with your hands, especially when it involves contact 
cement, you might have the kit installed by a good local trim shop.  I've 
never done body work -- I'll defer there.
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 18:03:20 -0400
Subject: Looking for steel wheels

Hi,
   Does anyone happen to have a couple of extra steel wheels for a BN4
for sale. I just found out that two of mine are halves welded together.

Thanks,
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
AN5, BN4

From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 17:25:59 -0500
Subject: Re: am I on right list

Shoot....Body work is Easy.... Beat it out within 1/8th of an inch and Smear
Bondo all over it.... Then get you some sand paper and remove everything
that don't look like a Healey....

Keith... Sounds easy eh?.....
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: am I on right list


>
>
> In a message dated 10/7/00 10:03:58 AM, jdrax@badger.tds.net writes:
>
> <<
> where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
> panels >>
>
> If you're going to do the interior in the original vinyl, rather than in
the
> optional leather, the Moss kits are as good as anyone's.  Installation,
> however makes the difference between a good resto and a great one.  If you
> aren't really good with your hands, especially when it involves contact
> cement, you might have the kit installed by a good local trim shop.  I've
> never done body work -- I'll defer there.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>


From "Michael  Lempert" <mdlempert at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:42:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I love a good irony.


From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:25:44 -0600
Subject: Re: New Topic

1/4 inch or 1/4 degree?

----- Original Message -----
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: New Topic


>
> Hi guys, for a new topic of discussion, I am having the following problem
now
> that I am on the home stretch with the assembly of my BN6.
> I bought this car as an unfinished project and in general am very pleased
> with the quality of previous work and the parts both new and used that I
> received with the car. What I have discovered is that I have about 1/4"
> positive camber on the front wheels when in the dead ahead position. This
BN6
> has front disc brake conversion and Koni shock conversion but still
unitizes
> the standard Armstrong hydraulic shocker. I believe the front shock
mounting
> pads may have been replaced, possibly incorrectly aligned. The trunions
are
> installed correctly. My question is;  how effective are the adjustable
> trunnion bushings vs the eccentric bushing shaft or the eccentric mounting
> bolts for the hydraulic shocks? And does anyone know of a source for the
> eccentric mounting bolts for the shocks?
>
> Thanks and Cheers,
>
> John Wright
>


From JSM56 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:28:34 EDT
Subject: I am looking to Purchase a 67 Mk 3000-

In Good to Excellent Condition in California.  Anyone have one or know of one?
Thanks

From "John  R. Draxler" <jdrax at badger.tds.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 20:34:01 -0500
Subject: bj8 steering column

what color is the main tube for the steering column on a 1967 bj8 ?

also what color is the gearbox on the bottom?


    http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
        7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps



From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:57:58 EDT
Subject: Question about attaching fog lamps

Folks,

How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use the 
brackets that supported the bumper ?

Jim L.
56 BN2

From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 22:15:58 -0400
Subject: Chassis black

Doug,

I use a De vilbiss HVLP. Normally I have to thin everything @ 10% more to
get even coats. Its the nature of the gun. My high pressure gun  will spray
anything no problem. However, My HVLP is set up to spray higher solids. It
seems yours is set up the same way. You can try thinning the por-15 a little
more.

My preference is perfectly cleaned parts, good coat of ppg DP-90 (black)
then I use DCC black with its flattening agent to get the correct chassis
black. The urethane will stand up to anything, and has the durable undercoat
o f an epoxy primer.  And also believe it or not chassis black parts were
painted with a very sloppy thick coat of an enamel, so the  occasional run
is definatly concours !

Good luck,     Carroll


From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 22:18:04 -0400
Subject: Steering column

John,  

It's all black,  chassis black.

Carroll


From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 19:19:37 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Main bearing studs - Thanks

Many thanks to those that replied with the main journal nut torque and stud 
tightening information. Just what I needed.

Thanks again to all and for having this list.

John
'62 BT7


From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 23:38:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs

John,
The published spec is 75 ft lbs.  However, my machinist just went through the 
line boring process on my block and after measuring bolt stretch and 
thickness he recommended 80-85 ft lbs.  At 75 the caps would not provide a 
reproducable clearance value...which is why he checked the stretch, etc.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6

From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 06:06:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

While on the subject of removed bumpers; are you mounting the tag light to
the body?
lance
54bn1

----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 9:57 PM
Subject: Question about attaching fog lamps


>
> Folks,
>
> How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use
the
> brackets that supported the bumper ?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
>


From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 10:32:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs


 Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >>
In a message dated 10/07/2000 11:39:40 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:

<< As far as I know there is no published spec for the main studs torque.
 I usually go with 20 lb./ft.. It's more important that they be torqued
 evenly than heavily.
 Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >>

One of the later shop manuals, AKD 1179H, a the end of the General Data 
section up front (p. 19), lists torqued wrench settings for many key 
fasteners.  Among them:

Main bearing nuts                 900 lb. in.   (75 ft. lb.)

Connecting rod set screws     600 lb. in.   (50 ft. lb.)

and many others!!!!  (engine plates, rocker shaft, bell housing, differential 
bearing caps, steering wheels, etc.)

I use these values for both 100s and 6-cyl cars, as the bolt/nut sizes in 
each application are the same as on the later 3000s.

Roger

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:20:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs

Roger,
The question was about stud torque, not stud nut torque.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>; <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Main bearing studs


>
>  Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >>
> In a message dated 10/07/2000 11:39:40 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> MrFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << As far as I know there is no published spec for the main studs torque.
>  I usually go with 20 lb./ft.. It's more important that they be torqued
>  evenly than heavily.
>  Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks >>
>
> One of the later shop manuals, AKD 1179H, a the end of the General Data
> section up front (p. 19), lists torqued wrench settings for many key
> fasteners.  Among them:
>
> Main bearing nuts                 900 lb. in.   (75 ft. lb.)
>
> Connecting rod set screws     600 lb. in.   (50 ft. lb.)
>
> and many others!!!!  (engine plates, rocker shaft, bell housing,
differential
> bearing caps, steering wheels, etc.)
>
> I use these values for both 100s and 6-cyl cars, as the bolt/nut sizes in
> each application are the same as on the later 3000s.
>
> Roger


From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 13:31:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Jim,

The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame in
replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe that Cape
International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best regards.  rjh
>
>How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use
the 
>brackets that supported the bumper ?
>
>Jim L.
>56 BN2
> 


From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:01:55 -0400
Subject: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake

This weekend I was fortunate to be able and drive a friend's '57 BN4 to
the Fall British Car Show at Waynesboro, Virginia. A wonderful car to
drive, but I did have one problem. When I would accelerate through the
gears to about 3000 rpm the car would run smoothly. As soon as I engaged
overdrive the front end (assumed)  would start to shake. I would have to
accelerate to over 60MPH to settle it out but it was still not quite
right. Any ideas? This car had been in storage for some years and came
out of the shop only last Thursday having had the brakes, carbs, and
exhaust system worked on. Thanks.

Happy Healeying,

Doug
________________________________________________________________

From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 19:34:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Front End Shimmy/Shake

Hi Doug,
My BN4 always shakes at 55 - 60 MPH.  Nothing wrong with the front end that I 
know of.  I have a neighbor with a 63 and he has the same problem.  I will 
follow this thread and maybe find a fix too.  I have spoken with Allan 
Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel and he said that the brake drums may be out of 
balance, but supposedly not in the early years.
Rudy Streng

From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 21:26:34 EDT
Subject: Valve clearances

Are valve clearances to be set hot or cold?

thanks--Michael 

From Robert Bell <rbell at cpinternet.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 21:04:23 -0500
Subject: BJ8 questions!!!!

Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
the top of the fender?

Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
located?

What radios are availabile/used in the Healey?

Thanks in advance.

BB  BJ8


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 22:48:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Jim,

Attach them in whatever way you wish.  Just be aware that it must be quite
sturdy or you will get vibrations in them while underway.

I chose to use a spare set of bumper brackets.  I first separated the two
halves (one side was already separated which gave me the idea).  I then bent
them outboard by about 2 inches because I wanted the lights to be more to
the side than the ordinary position of the brackets.  This necessitated the
relocation of the bracket to frame rail mounting holes.  With the tips about
2 inches apart I then welded about a 3 inch or so piece of angle iron to
make a front and top for the brackets.  The top of the angle iron for
mounting the lights and the front for attaching license plate brackets,
badges, etc.

Let me know if you wish specific measurements.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 9:57 PM
Subject: Question about attaching fog lamps


>
> Folks,
>
> How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use
the
> brackets that supported the bumper ?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 22:55:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Lance,

I also wanted the option of going rear bumperless as well as front
bumperless (which I am now).  I fabricated a Al bracket for the license
plate and light which when viewed from the side is  |/|  This attaches via
the two holes in the lower end of the shroud and fits neatly behind the rear
bumper.  Nothing attaches to the bumper.  Thus the bumper may be removed
along with the brackets.

Have a pair of extra tail lights to go over the resulting holes in the
shroud but have not done the final preparation and fitting for that yet.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 6:06 AM
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps


>
> While on the subject of removed bumpers; are you mounting the tag light to
> the body?
> lance
> 54bn1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 9:57 PM
> Subject: Question about attaching fog lamps
>
>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you
use
> the
> > brackets that supported the bumper ?
> >
> > Jim L.
> > 56 BN2
> >
>


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 22:59:49 -0400
Subject: Re: bj8 steering column

John,

The tube should be black.  Not sure whether semi or glossy.  Others can fill
that in.

The entire gearbox is same as engine green.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: John R. Draxler <jdrax@badger.tds.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 9:34 PM
Subject: bj8 steering column


>
> what color is the main tube for the steering column on a 1967 bj8 ?
>
> also what color is the gearbox on the bottom?
>
>
>     http://www.tbirdranch.com
> John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
>         7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
> 715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
> Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
> "have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
>
>


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 23:40:23 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

Hi, Bob -
The fender (wing) mirrors were normally installed by the dealer (or later),
consequently there is no standard location for them.     Of the  334 BMIHT
certificates for which I have a copy in the BJ8 registry, only four of them
include "one wing mirror" as factory-installed options, with only two cars
having "two wing mirrors".    The further forward you mount them, the less
useful they are as mirrors, for what that's worth.  My car has them mounted
centered over the "flash" on each front wing.

Also, relatively few cars were delivered from the factory with radios
installed as an option.    Of the 334 certificates, only four cars were
delivered with radios installed from the factory (this option is described
for one car as "Type R.602T", for another as "Type 902T", for a third as
"Type 972.T", and not specified for the fourth).    For my '66 BJ8, the
certificate does not specify a radio, but pictures from 1968 show that one
was installed by then.  The antenna hole is on top of  the right front wing,
6 inches from the rear edge.  I have also seen antennas mounted on the flat
surface of the shroud forward of the windscreen.

Most modern radios work only on negative ground, so that can be a problem.
You can change the car to negative ground, isolate the radio chassis and
antenna from the positive ground body of the car, or use a voltage converter
(what I use, but I don't know how easy it is to find these now).

Happy Healeying!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bell <rbell@cpinternet.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 10:23 PM
Subject: BJ8 questions!!!!


>
>Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
>the top of the fender?
>
>Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
>located?
>
>What radios are availabile/used in the Healey?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>BB  BJ8
>


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun,  8 Oct 2000 22:39:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake

hi doug-  

sounds like it could be a front ujoint.  your bonneville video will be on it's 
way to you tomorrow.

happy healeying,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: dwflagg@juno.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:01:55 -0400

 
This weekend I was fortunate to be able and drive a friend's '57 BN4 to 
the Fall British Car Show at Waynesboro, Virginia. A wonderful car to 
drive, but I did have one problem. When I would accelerate through the 
gears to about 3000 rpm the car would run smoothly. As soon as I engaged 
overdrive the front end (assumed)  would start to shake. I would have to 
accelerate to over 60MPH to settle it out but it was still not quite 
right. Any ideas? This car had been in storage for some years and came 
out of the shop only last Thursday having had the brakes, carbs, and 
exhaust system worked on. Thanks. 
 
Happy Healeying, 
 
Doug 
________________________________________________________________ 



From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 00:00:15 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!


In a message dated 10/8/00 7:02:14 PM, rbell@cpinternet.com writes:

<< 
Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
the top of the fender?

Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
located? >>

No, there is no singular "correct" location for fender mirrors.  Other than 
the Door Mirror, which was a factory option and was mounted on, you guessed 
it, the door, the fender mirrors were dealer options and were put basically 
wherever the dealer and owner wanted them.  Far out on the fenders like 
XK120s doesn't work well at all. I have mine mid-way out on the fenders and 
they are handy for checking my blind spots. I've seen them also mounted on 
period cars a quarter the way out the front fender, which would work.  
However, before drilling the hole, make sure you can reach the underside of 
the fender right there to get the nut on the mirror.

Likewise radio antennas.  I've seen them on original cars mounted on the 
front shroud just inboard of the bead on the  passenger side, and on the rear 
shround on either side. All you need to do is make sure of the clearance.

There were several different radios mounted in the BJ8 -- even though there 
was a space for the radio and speaker grille, there wasn't any standard 
radio.  
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry 

From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 00:08:15 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

In a message dated 10/8/2000 22:39:39 Central Daylight Time, 
byers@cconnect.net writes:

<< or use a voltage converter
 (what I use, but I don't know how easy it is to find these now). >>

Most are now found on a shelf collecting dust. Last I remember they were at 
Radio Shack (some 20 years ago).

Don

From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 00:46:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve clearances

In a message dated 10/9/00 12:42:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:

<< .12 inch hot is the spec. >>

I should have mentioned that my car is a BN1-there is no mention of hot or 
cold in my manual--and there sure isn't any consensus on the list!  So far 
it's about 40% hot to 40% cold with the rest saying it doesn't matter. 
Notwithstanding, sincere thanks for all who replied

Michael<------raeching into pocket and getting out coin :-i

From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 02:51:31 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

Hi John,
    For the record:
  I have been running the BN7 MKII TriCarb International Register longer that 
I have been running the BT7 MKII one.!
    It is exciting as we have 138 of the 355 made in it.  There are more out 
there so spread the word.  Every Registrant receives a current copy of the 
Register.
    Data is only released upon owners approval and copies of the Register 
goes only to owners!
    Please encourage BN7/BT7 MKII owners to send me their data.
        Thanks, Bill Bolton

From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 02:51:35 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

Yes Dean
    It is the BN7 MKI and BT7 MKI that needs to be handled.
    Cheers, Bill Bolton  I can help you get started.

From Urs Hanselmann <urs_hanselmann at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 02:08:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN 1 Engine Bay Color(s)

Hi all

I know that the topic of correct engine paint (green,
green, greener) has been discussed here already.
However, two weeks ago I was lucky enough to get a
original sales brochure (sp?) for the bn1's. On one of
the last pages there is a nice drawing of the engine
compartment with you guess it, lots of green and also
red painted parts (the fan for example).

My questions now:
Can anybody who knows this picture tell me if it
represents the correct colors or was this more or less
a "sales stunt"?

Is anybody interested in putting a jpg of this picture
on one of the healey webpages?

Happy Healeying
Urs Hanselmann (BN1 July 15th 1955)

__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 04:50:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve clearances

Interesting that 20% don't care... hot or cold... Hmmm Okay.... in a way I
agree....Lets take a sec and consider what this is all about anyway...

Our Goal for a Valve is to be fully seated ... This is why we have
clearances in the first place and to allow for the minor expansion of Metal
as the block Heats...  When the Cam Lobe comes around to open that valve the
first Portion of the lobe is called the ramp and it slowly takes up the
slack in the valve train Prior to hefting the valve to it's full Lift....
and then as it closes the Valve it brings it down fast then Goes through the
same effort to allow the valve to close smoothly the very last Portion

All this being said in Theory we could have as little at .002 and still
accomplish the goal ( by the way it will give you a tick more Cam )  or as
much as .20... and have no real change in Performance...( Bring Ear Plugs...
that would rattle LOTS)

The Biggest reason for adjusting the Valves is to compensate for wear in the
components.... on a Race car we do it Mostly to ensure nothing got Hurt on
that Last Run.... and we check Spring Pressures to make sure we didn't hurt
a Sping in the Maylay....  If a Valve adjustment is WAY off... it tells you
that something in that Cylinder isn't right...

Just some food for thought...

Keith ( Why no I still don't have a Clue....)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: Valve clearances


>
> In a message dated 10/9/00 12:42:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << .12 inch hot is the spec. >>
>
> I should have mentioned that my car is a BN1-there is no mention of hot or
> cold in my manual--and there sure isn't any consensus on the list!  So far
> it's about 40% hot to 40% cold with the rest saying it doesn't matter.
> Notwithstanding, sincere thanks for all who replied
>
> Michael<------raeching into pocket and getting out coin :-i
>


From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:38:30 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

> having "two wing mirrors".    The further forward you mount them, the less
> useful they are as mirrors, for what that's worth
My BT7 has a pair mounted forward on the high point of the fender.  They are
totally useless - even for the few brief minutes that they stay in
adjustment.  They will most definitely be gone with the next paint job.

Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb


From "Donald L. Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 07:50:36 -0500
Subject: Float Sticking

Hi Gang;
I took "The Old Red Devil" out for a brisk ride Saturday.  48 DEG.
Ran fine for 80 miles.  Then the middle carb float started to stick
intermittently.  Any clues?

Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.


From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:07:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve clearances

In a message dated 10/8/2000 23:48:56 Central Daylight Time, Awgertoo@aol.com 
writes:

<< .12 inch hot is the spec. >>
I think there was a typo on this number. Could you have ment .012" instead 
aprox 1/8"=.125

Don

From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 09:23:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Front End Shimmy/Shake

Any chance it was caused by the overdrive clutch not engaging completely
(grabbing because of a dirty lining or wear)? Or was it actually in the
front end?  Joe Elmer

dwflagg@juno.com wrote:

> This weekend I was fortunate to be able and drive a friend's '57 BN4 to
> the Fall British Car Show at Waynesboro, Virginia. A wonderful car to
> drive, but I did have one problem. When I would accelerate through the
> gears to about 3000 rpm the car would run smoothly. As soon as I engaged
> overdrive the front end (assumed)  would start to shake. I would have to
> accelerate to over 60MPH to settle it out but it was still not quite
> right. Any ideas? This car had been in storage for some years and came
> out of the shop only last Thursday having had the brakes, carbs, and
> exhaust system worked on. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
> ________________________________________________________________


From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:25:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Valve clearances

In a message dated 10/9/00 9:07:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Drtrite writes:

<< .12 inch hot is the spec. >>
 I think there was a typo on this number. Could you have ment .012" instead 
aprox 1/8"=.125 >>

Yes, Don.  And I must officially apologize to the list for my inaccuracy:   
Last night I said my manual did not say Hot or Cold and there it was in black 
and white this morning:  COLD!

Sorry all--Michael

From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 06:57:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN 1 Engine Bay Color(s)

Urs,

The sales brochure that you describe (one from the Publication No. 1040
series) does show two "artist's renderings" of the "Power Unit" on page 9,
complete with rust-colored (no slam intended) rocker covers, dark red
exhaust manifold, orange pulleys, light orange fan belt, dark red
high-tension leads, unpainted transmission, etc.  Apparently this was done
just to provide some contrast between the various components to make it all
"easier to see," and presumably to make it more interesting (more exciting?)
to look at as potential buyers contemplated buying a Healey Hundred.

The British Motor Corporation kept up this practice in later brochures also,
and you should not use these renderings as a reference or basis for a
restoration.  At least not if originality is important to you.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
BN2
BN2
AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org


On Mon, 9 Oct 2000 02:08:39 -0700 (PDT), Urs Hanselmann wrote:
>  
>  Hi all
>  
>  I know that the topic of correct engine paint (green,
>  green, greener) has been discussed here already.
>  However, two weeks ago I was lucky enough to get a
>  original sales brochure (sp?) for the bn1's. On one of
>  the last pages there is a nice drawing of the engine
>  compartment with you guess it, lots of green and also
>  red painted parts (the fan for example).
>  
>  My questions now:
>  Can anybody who knows this picture tell me if it
>  represents the correct colors or was this more or less
>  a "sales stunt"?
>  
>  Is anybody interested in putting a jpg of this picture
>  on one of the healey webpages?
>  
>  Happy Healeying
>  Urs Hanselmann (BN1 July 15th 1955)
>  





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 9 Oct 2000 14:06:47 +0000
Subject: re : Valve clearances

Could anyone of the expert guys help me and clarify the situation. 
On rocker-covers of the early six-cylinder engines (except Bj8) a label
(riveted to the rocker cover)with valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "hot" was
fitted by the factory. The Bj8-rocker covers got a label (glued) with
valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "cold". 
Why did they change it from hot to cold? I do not see any difference in layout
of the engines, except the camshaft-profile.
Cheers, Josef Eckert, Germany
54 BN1, 62 BT7

From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:10:06 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

Have two Raydot repos about 1/3 the way up the fender. Found two convex stick 
ons that make them usefull now. Can see a little better. You may want to 
check the mirror riser on the NTAHC page <http://www.ntahc.austin1.com/> with 
the top down you can see out the rear view mirror better.

All in, all done...I would not put another set of mirrors on fenders.

Don

From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:43:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake

Doug:
I have a 59 100-6 that has always had similar problems. The front end
was rebuilt with new king pins and bushings, new 72 spoke wire wheels
and tires were purchased and balanced on the car which eliminated most
of the problem.
After much discussion, the only remaining cure I can think of is to
have the brake drums balanced.
In your case, the fact that the car had been sitting for some time may
have also caused the tires to become slightly out of round.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 11:01 AM
Subject: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake


>
> This weekend I was fortunate to be able and drive a friend's '57 BN4
to
> the Fall British Car Show at Waynesboro, Virginia. A wonderful car
to
> drive, but I did have one problem. When I would accelerate through
the
> gears to about 3000 rpm the car would run smoothly. As soon as I
engaged
> overdrive the front end (assumed)  would start to shake. I would
have to
> accelerate to over 60MPH to settle it out but it was still not quite
> right. Any ideas? This car had been in storage for some years and
came
> out of the shop only last Thursday having had the brakes, carbs, and
> exhaust system worked on. Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
> ________________________________________________________________
>


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________

From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:04:43 EDT
Subject: Re: BN7 Registry.  

Bill,  I'm very aware that you take care of the BN-7, BT-7 Tri-Carb Registry. 
The question asked concerned the BN-7-I, II Registry. I apologize for 
offending you in trying to let others out there know that that was "opened"
.
Regards, 
John S. Hunt

From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:02:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Front End Shimmy/Shake

Sounds like it might be scuttle shake to me.  Not too long ago there was a
lot on this.  Suggest you check the archives:
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys

Pete

> Subject: Re:Front End Shimmy/Shake
>
> >
> > This weekend I was fortunate to be able and drive a friend's '57 BN4
> to
> > the Fall British Car Show at Waynesboro, Virginia. A wonderful car
> to
> > drive, but I did have one problem. When I would accelerate through
> the
> > gears to about 3000 rpm the car would run smoothly. As soon as I
> engaged
> > overdrive the front end (assumed)  would start to shake. I would
> have to
> > accelerate to over 60MPH to settle it out but it was still not quite
> > right. Any ideas? This car had been in storage for some years and
> came
> > out of the shop only last Thursday having had the brakes, carbs, and
> > exhaust system worked on. Thanks.
> >
> > Happy Healeying,
> >
> > Doug
> > ________________________________________________________________
> >
>
> ____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
> Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
> Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
> ___________________________________________________________


From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:08:49 EDT
Subject: Looking for engine

Hi all,  

A friend of mine is rebuilding an original 100S.  He has all the original 
bits for it except the engine.  Through a dealer contact in the states he has 
learned that the original engine was removed from the car, when it was 
wrecked years ago, and installed in a  BN2.  The dealer won't tell him where 
the BN2 is located, but my friend is prepared to trade a rebuilt 100M engine 
to the owner for the original engine to put back into the 100S.  My friend 
thinks the S-engined BN2 might be located in the eastern US, anywhere from 
Florida to New England.  However, his knowledge on location is so sketchy, 
the engine could be just about anywhere.

If anyone on this list could help us find the location of this hybred Healey, 
I would like to get in touch with the owner and maybe a "win-win" trade can 
be arranged.  It would be nice to see another original S put back together.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Roger

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:52:57 -0700 
Subject: RE: BJ8 questions!!!!

I have a convex mirror on the fender above the tire. I think it is just fine
for the blind spot when changing lanes with the top up.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bell [mailto:rbell@cpinternet.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:04 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 questions!!!!



Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
the top of the fender?

Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
located?

What radios are availabile/used in the Healey?

Thanks in advance.

BB  BJ8

From "Ed Orr" <smp at bestnet.org>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 12:10:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Plating Parts- long

Further to your blackening discussion there is a company here in
Canada selling a European cold blackening process apparently very easy
to use , their web site is "blackfast.com"

Ed Orr
Stoney Creek Ont
BJ8  '67   "Misty Blue"



From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:56:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Float Sticking

Don wrote:
> Hi Gang;
> I took "The Old Red Devil" out for a brisk ride Saturday.  48 DEG.
> Ran fine for 80 miles.  Then the middle carb float started to stick
> intermittently.  Any clues?

Yup.
Tricarb models do not have any sort of fuel filter. Install an in line fuel
filter before the carbs. A small one can be tastefully installed reasonably
out of sight which will take care of the tiny particles which are lodging
under the float needle against the seat, and not allowing the fuel flow to
shut off.
Rich Chrysler


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 12:38:52 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 Engine Bay Color(s)


In a message dated 10/9/00 2:10:24 AM, urs_hanselmann@yahoo.com writes:

<< However, two weeks ago I was lucky enough to get a
original sales brochure (sp?) for the bn1's. On one of
the last pages there is a nice drawing of the engine
compartment with you guess it, lots of green and also
red painted parts (the fan for example).

My questions now:
Can anybody who knows this picture tell me if it
represents the correct colors or was this more or less
a "sales stunt"? >>

Urs --
Good question.  The sales brochures are fun to look at, but they were 
definitely "graphically enhanced" (which is to say, the artists who were paid 
to make them look good had final say, rather than the production or design 
engineers. So in many cases, the part or parts to be highlighted were 
airbrushed or painted a different color than stock so that they would show 
up, and the engine pictures definitely were painted the way the artist 
thought they should look, instead of the way they did look on the production 
line.

As a result, we make a point in the American concours judging guidelines that 
sales brochures are not a good source of information on originality.

Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry

From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:13:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: carb overflow problem

I am just running my 5-years resto. BJ7 and I am experiencing problem
with the carbs (Hs6). 4 times out of 5, one or the other will keep
overflowing right from the start when I turn the ingnition key.
Slightly knocking the chamber lid with a nylon hammer does not
improved the situation (I helped me un-stuck the float on my TR3 a
couple of years back).

Do I have to change the needles and seats? 

Thanks

Francois
BJ7
TR3


__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/

From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 10:26:09 -0700
Subject: No LBC, no Firestone tire question

Well after 6-1/2 years and under 40K miles, it's time for me to look at new 
rubber for my "regular" car. It's a '94 BMW 325is with the stock Goodyear 
GS-N tires. These are 225/55's, and have lots of sidewall flex. I was 
wondering if the general consensus is the plus 1 concept is the best 
approach to reducing this squirm, or would I be able to get by with just a 
better tire on the factory rims? Since I don't do much driving, tire wear 
isn't as important as handling. I also don't need to worry about snow 
performance, but wet weather traction is a partial factor in winter. I'm 
leaning towards Pirelli, but am open to recommendations.

thnx
bk


From "Steve Byers" <tarheely66 at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 14:38:30 EDT
Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances

Guten Abend, Josef --
I don't have an answer to your question, but a slight correction:

Only the very latest BJ8s received the "glued on" rocker cover labels, with 
the earlier having riveted metal tags instead.  I assume this change was 
another BMC cost-savings measure.  My BJ8 (36666) has the metal tags riveted 
to the cover with the legend "SET ROCKERS TO .012" VALVE CLEARANCE WHEN 
HOT".  The BMC workshop manual, however, says to set the valve clearances 
COLD, and since it's easier working on the engine that way, I set my 
clearances cold.

Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA

>From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
>Reply-To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: re : Valve clearances
>Date: 9 Oct 2000 14:06:47 +0000
>
>Could anyone of the expert guys help me and clarify the situation.
>On rocker-covers of the early six-cylinder engines (except Bj8) a label
>(riveted to the rocker cover)with valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "hot" was
>fitted by the factory. The Bj8-rocker covers got a label (glued) with
>valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "cold".
>Why did they change it from hot to cold? I do not see any difference in 
>layout
>of the engines, except the camshaft-profile.
>Cheers, Josef Eckert, Germany
>54 BN1, 62 BT7

_________________________________________________________________________



From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 15:18:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Float Sticking

Hi Don,
    Better still.  Install an inline filter between tank and the fuel pump to 
keep all dirt out of the pump too.  I use the clear glass ones that you can 
clean and/or buy new screens.
    Cheers, Bill

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 15:58:27 EDT
Subject: Re: No LBC, no Firestone tire question


In a message dated 10/9/00 10:31:15 AM, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:

<<  I also don't need to worry about snow 
performance, but wet weather traction is a partial factor in winter. I'm 
leaning towards Pirelli, but am open to recommendations. >>

I had the chance to test the new Pirelli P Zero Rossos at Homestead Raceway 
last January -- in addition to the performance aspects of the tire, they were 
particularly proud of the behavior in the wet -- nothing more fun than 
running a slalom course that is an inch deep in water and with lots of 
run-off area, and being encouraged to push the car until it spins out.  They 
gave us same car mounted with various competitors. Pirelli did best.  Nice 
tire, but pricey I expect.  being marketed as a replacement tire for 
performance cars. Certainly worth considering.

Cheers
gary

From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 00:08:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Jim/Richard--check the April96 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine.  We did an
article by Hiroshi Takemori of the Japan AHC on a set of brackets that mount
where the front in the holes for the front bumper supports.   Hiroshi included
a detailed 3-vu drawing of teh bracket with dimensions.  The late Bill Austill
welded up a set of these for the BN1.  Regards,  John Trifari   1955 BN1/1965
BJ8

"Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:

> Jim,
>
> The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame in
> replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe that Cape
> International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best regards.  rjh
> >
> >How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use
> the
> >brackets that supported the bumper ?
> >
> >Jim L.
> >56 BN2
> >


From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 16:50:38 -0700
Subject: 

Hi All!

Many years ago in one of my Dad's early Healeys, he had a Blaupunkt radio. I
am interested in finding a radio to fill the hole in the console of my BJ8.
She's positive ground and will stay that way.

By ANY CHANCE, does anyone have an old Blaupunkt radio that they'd like to
sell? Ideally I'd like to find what he had. It was a standard looking radio
with I believe 5 pushbuttons. Two AM, two FM, and one Marine band. I do
think I remember that it had a switch on the back to select operation in pos
or neg ground cars.

Barring that...I'd like to find any period correct radio preferring that it
includes FM. Does anyone have something like this that they'd like to sell?

Thanks,
Dave

BJ8
TR4A



From Peter Brauen <pbrauen at telepak.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 17:27:56 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

Hi All,
    The mirrors seem to have been lined up with the rear of the wheelarch
openings on many BJ8s I have seen, but that may be a local quirk. I have
also seen others lined up with the rear edge of the wheel rim, and even
centered over the wheelarch (which renders them almost useless!) We
generally place them in line with the rear of the wheelarch unless the
customer has another preference, as the closer the better. We also use a
convex mirror on the passenger side (both styles are available from many
suppliers.) Clarke Spares sells a nice little "Lucas" plate for the mirror
head which adds that period look. Hope this helps someone.

Peter (BMC Restorations)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'Robert Bell'" <rbell@cpinternet.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: BJ8 questions!!!!


>
> I have a convex mirror on the fender above the tire. I think it is just
fine
> for the blind spot when changing lanes with the top up.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Bell [mailto:rbell@cpinternet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 7:04 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8 questions!!!!
>
>
>
> Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
> the top of the fender?
>
> Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
> located?
>
> What radios are availabile/used in the Healey?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> BB  BJ8


From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:02:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

While many have made excellent brackets for the mounting of fog lamps to 
bumperless Healeys, I've not seen any that are close to what the works rally 
team used.
Bear in mind that most of the works cars that are around today are 
reproductions of the original setups after having gone through the 
"Mod-Sports" periods. Even the picture of URX 757 on the cover of the 
Browning book on the works Healeys clearly shows a very different bracket 
than is seen in any of the action photos of that car during the '59-'61 
period.
I am at my office today, away from my Healey books, and from what I remember, 
all of the team pictures show the big brackets except maybe the Sebring race 
cars.

The Works Team constructed a box type bracket that wrapped around the  
underside of the frame rail was bolted to both sides of the rail. The 
horizontal section was bent upwards, then protruded forward having a hole 
where the Lucas 7" lamps were attached.

I can send pics if anyone would like to see them.

Rick
San Diego

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 20:17:42 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

In a message dated 10/09/2000 5:33:32 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pbrauen@telepak.net writes:

<< (which renders them almost useless!)>>

Strange, I have well over 60K on Hortense including numerous trips across 
either and/or Ind TurnPike, Ohio TurnPike, Penn TurnPike, numerous trips to 
the Indy area, Niagra Falls, etc..  Four trips with and including driving 
"IN" Wash., DC, and I have NEVER had a prob with mine which are on front wing 
centered above front wheel centre.  Most trips where done with an Original 
Luggage Rack (NOT current "fake" one"<G>) loaded.

<Clarke Spares sells a nice little "Lucas" plate for the mirror head which 
adds that period look. >>

So does everybody else, Peter.

Current Moss Price is $ 10.95.  Too lazy to see if VB has.

Cheers..........

          Ed

From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 20:48:56 -0400
Subject: RE: re : Valve clearances

When I first got my BJ7 I was a bit puzzled by the conflicting
specs as well.  As an experiment, I tried setting the valves cold,
then checked them after I had the car thoroughly warmed up.  With
a hot engine they were all within less than .002" of .012" which
is about as close as I can get them anyway.

I set mine cold because it's easier.

Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 2:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances



Guten Abend, Josef --
I don't have an answer to your question, but a slight correction:

Only the very latest BJ8s received the "glued on" rocker cover labels, with
the earlier having riveted metal tags instead.  I assume this change was
another BMC cost-savings measure.  My BJ8 (36666) has the metal tags riveted
to the cover with the legend "SET ROCKERS TO .012" VALVE CLEARANCE WHEN
HOT".  The BMC workshop manual, however, says to set the valve clearances
COLD, and since it's easier working on the engine that way, I set my
clearances cold.

Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA

>From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
>Reply-To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: re : Valve clearances
>Date: 9 Oct 2000 14:06:47 +0000
>
>Could anyone of the expert guys help me and clarify the situation.
>On rocker-covers of the early six-cylinder engines (except Bj8) a label
>(riveted to the rocker cover)with valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "hot" was
>fitted by the factory. The Bj8-rocker covers got a label (glued) with
>valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "cold".
>Why did they change it from hot to cold? I do not see any difference in
>layout
>of the engines, except the camshaft-profile.
>Cheers, Josef Eckert, Germany
>54 BN1, 62 BT7

_________________________________________________________________________



From Ed Driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 18:41:08 -0500
Subject: Re: No LBC, no Firestone tire question

Hi Gary

This is very interesting. I have P3's on both the Morgan and the BJ8, this tire
type is far from an ideal wet tire and I am looking for options. In a modest 
rain
(1/4" to 1/2" over several hours) the P3's loose grip making anything above a
gradual stop an interesting exercise - unless one has had ice racing, skid pan 
or
driving school experience.  How would you rate the P Zero Rossos as the dry/wet
tire (i.e. all around driving tire)?  Also what is the US list on these, if
possible.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan


Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 10/9/00 10:31:15 AM, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> <<  I also don't need to worry about snow
> performance, but wet weather traction is a partial factor in winter. I'm
> leaning towards Pirelli, but am open to recommendations. >>
>
> I had the chance to test the new Pirelli P Zero Rossos at Homestead Raceway
> last January -- in addition to the performance aspects of the tire, they were
> particularly proud of the behavior in the wet -- nothing more fun than
> running a slalom course that is an inch deep in water and with lots of
> run-off area, and being encouraged to push the car until it spins out.  They
> gave us same car mounted with various competitors. Pirelli did best.  Nice
> tire, but pricey I expect.  being marketed as a replacement tire for
> performance cars. Certainly worth considering.
>
> Cheers
> gary




From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:29:49 -0400
Subject: Parts for Sale

Hopefully it is still OK to post some parts--if not, I'm sure someone will
tell me.  I have had some parts sitting around for a 1959/60 3000 for some
time and would like to get rid of them.  Here are a few items I have.
Anyone interested, contact me off line.  allthese things are original from a
parts car.

Complete dash frame--aluminum--needs recovered----$30.00
fuel gauge--$25.00
windshield washer switch--$15.00
chrome grab handle complete with wooden piece at the rear.--$25.00
ignition switch--$20.00
Green signal (warning) light --$15.00
Starter push switch--$15.00
wiper switch--$15.00
choke pull knob--$10.00
complete windshield frame--glass in it---$50.00

Grill surround for BJ8--$100.00--needs to be rechromed.
Other bits as well.

Tom   tfelts@prodigy.net



From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:22:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Float Sticking

Yes, a filter that has only a screen is fine (and a
must IMO), but according to Holley, etc., you should
never use the typical paper element type on the
suction side of the pump due to potential pressure
drop.

GM
----- Original Message -----

>
> Hi Don,
>     Better still.  Install an inline filter between
tank and the fuel pump to
> keep all dirt out of the pump too.  I use the clear
glass ones that you can
> clean and/or buy new screens.
>     Cheers, Bill



From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:49:07 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!

Bob,

I agree with Steve and Gary.  As Gary noted
<However, before drilling the hole, make sure you can reach the underside of
the fender right there to get the nut on the mirror.>
This is a good suggestion.  I mounted my two about 1 inch from the fender
bead on the fender along a line extended from the rear of the hood.  The
convex mirrors give good visibility at that location.  Almost useless
mounted above the wheel openings which I have seen on may cars.

Keith Pennell

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 questions!!!!


>
> Hi, Bob -
> The fender (wing) mirrors were normally installed by the dealer (or
later),
> consequently there is no standard location for them.     Of the  334 BMIHT
> certificates for which I have a copy in the BJ8 registry, only four of
them
> include "one wing mirror" as factory-installed options, with only two cars
> having "two wing mirrors".    The further forward you mount them, the less
> useful they are as mirrors, for what that's worth.  My car has them
mounted
> centered over the "flash" on each front wing.
>
> Also, relatively few cars were delivered from the factory with radios
> installed as an option.    Of the 334 certificates, only four cars were
> delivered with radios installed from the factory (this option is described
> for one car as "Type R.602T", for another as "Type 902T", for a third as
> "Type 972.T", and not specified for the fourth).    For my '66 BJ8, the
> certificate does not specify a radio, but pictures from 1968 show that one
> was installed by then.  The antenna hole is on top of  the right front
wing,
> 6 inches from the rear edge.  I have also seen antennas mounted on the
flat
> surface of the shroud forward of the windscreen.
>
> Most modern radios work only on negative ground, so that can be a problem.
> You can change the car to negative ground, isolate the radio chassis and
> antenna from the positive ground body of the car, or use a voltage
converter
> (what I use, but I don't know how easy it is to find these now).
>
> Happy Healeying!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Bell <rbell@cpinternet.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 10:23 PM
> Subject: BJ8 questions!!!!
>
>
> >
> >Is there a proper location for fender mirrors on the BJ8 - other than
> >the top of the fender?
> >
> >Also, with the radio cut out in the console, where was the antenna
> >located?
> >
> >What radios are availabile/used in the Healey?
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >BB  BJ8
> >
>


From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:35:08 -0700
Subject: Re: carb overflow problem

Try putting a fuel filter inplace. You may have old "crapped up" gas
(varnish) in your lines, these small flakes stick the needles every time. I
was plagued with this for quite sometime, I finally changed my braided
engine hoses and it seemed to have stopped (fingers crossed). I changed
needles and seats and it still happened, the only thing left was the hoses.
I even went to the extent of reaming them with swabs covered in lacquer
thinners but it still didn't help. I placed the filter in the fender well
(out of sight). By the way I tried many different types of gas additives, I
think they just loosened stuff up and made it worse...Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:13 AM
Subject: carb overflow problem


>
> I am just running my 5-years resto. BJ7 and I am experiencing problem
> with the carbs (Hs6). 4 times out of 5, one or the other will keep
> overflowing right from the start when I turn the ingnition key.
> Slightly knocking the chamber lid with a nylon hammer does not
> improved the situation (I helped me un-stuck the float on my TR3 a
> couple of years back).
>
> Do I have to change the needles and seats?
>
> Thanks
>
> Francois
> BJ7
> TR3
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 22:00:02 -0400
Subject: Re: carb overflow problem

Francois,

I would first check the float setting.  Seems to me a 5/16 gap between the
lever and the face of the cover is specified.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 1:13 PM
Subject: carb overflow problem


>
> I am just running my 5-years resto. BJ7 and I am experiencing problem
> with the carbs (Hs6). 4 times out of 5, one or the other will keep
> overflowing right from the start when I turn the ingnition key.
> Slightly knocking the chamber lid with a nylon hammer does not
> improved the situation (I helped me un-stuck the float on my TR3 a
> couple of years back).
>
> Do I have to change the needles and seats?
>
> Thanks
>
> Francois
> BJ7
> TR3
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/


From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 12:07:20 -0600
Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances

Mine, BJ8 31880 has the same plate as yours

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <tarheely66@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances


>
> Guten Abend, Josef --
> I don't have an answer to your question, but a slight correction:
>
> Only the very latest BJ8s received the "glued on" rocker cover labels,
with
> the earlier having riveted metal tags instead.  I assume this change was
> another BMC cost-savings measure.  My BJ8 (36666) has the metal tags
riveted
> to the cover with the legend "SET ROCKERS TO .012" VALVE CLEARANCE WHEN
> HOT".  The BMC workshop manual, however, says to set the valve clearances
> COLD, and since it's easier working on the engine that way, I set my
> clearances cold.
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> >From: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
> >Reply-To: Josef.Eckert@t-mobil.de
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: re : Valve clearances
> >Date: 9 Oct 2000 14:06:47 +0000
> >
> >Could anyone of the expert guys help me and clarify the situation.
> >On rocker-covers of the early six-cylinder engines (except Bj8) a label
> >(riveted to the rocker cover)with valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "hot"
was
> >fitted by the factory. The Bj8-rocker covers got a label (glued) with
> >valve-clearance of 0.012 inches "cold".
> >Why did they change it from hot to cold? I do not see any difference in
> >layout
> >of the engines, except the camshaft-profile.
> >Cheers, Josef Eckert, Germany
> >54 BN1, 62 BT7
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>


From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 22:07:12 EDT
Subject: Re: BN 1 Engine Bay Color(s)

In a message dated 10/09/2000 10:41:24 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Editorgary@aol.com writes:

<< 
 << However, two weeks ago I was lucky enough to get a
 original sales brochure (sp?) for the bn1's. On one of
 the last pages there is a nice drawing of the engine
 compartment with you guess it, lots of green and also
 red painted parts (the fan for example).
 
 My questions now:
 Can anybody who knows this picture tell me if it
 represents the correct colors or was this more or less
 a "sales stunt"? >>
 
 Urs --
 Good question.  The sales brochures are fun to look at, but they were 
 definitely "graphically enhanced" (which is to say, the artists who were 
paid 
 to make them look good had final say, rather than the production or design 
 engineers. So in many cases, the part or parts to be highlighted were 
 airbrushed or painted a different color than stock so that they would show 
 up, and the engine pictures definitely were painted the way the artist 
 thought they should look, instead of the way they did look on the production 
 line.
  >>

Last December (1999), the Austin HEaley Magazine (publication of AHCUSA) 
lprinted a copy of an article written in '54 by Mel Torme about experiences 
with his new Healey 100.  He ordered it from the dealer and was to take 
delivery int he summer of '53, but finally received it in Sept '53, I 
believe.  Anyhow, the car was not a "new production" one but rather one that 
had been used in various car shows and was actually built much erlier in '53. 
 The dealer told Mel that it had been upgraded with all the improvements that 
were now being  incorporated in new cars, including a 4-bladed fan.  This 
statement tells me that the draawing shown in 100 sales literature was 
probably the way the car was initially inteded to be sold, but that they 
changed to a 4-blade fan (what we all have seen on the cars) probably fairly 
early in production (or even pre-production).  This is but one example where 
the aritst's renderings should not be taken as a guide for restoration.

Roger

From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:06:21 -0700
Subject: water jackets in Healey

Listers,
I'm in the process of tearing down the engine in my 60 BT7.  When I
removed the head I noted that there are five 1" diameter water
passages between the compression chambers on the head, but on the
engine block only one corresponding water passage actually allows
water to pass through to the block.  When I examined the passage
opening in the block I thought it to be irregularly shaped and very
pitted as if it had just eaten through to the water jacket, but when I
cleaned up the opening I determine that it was 1/2" diameter and the
surface around it was deteriorated and looks like it supposed to be
there.  Some of the other areas on the block that don't go through to
the water jackets are also deteriorating.
Now the question, is this correct or has the block sprung a leak from
the head to the water jacket?
Thanks
Mark Fawcett



From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:25:26 EDT
Subject: Re: No LBC, no Firestone tire question


The Pirelli P3s have been out of production for, what, ten years? 
Interestingly, the tread pattern on the current Michelin ZXs in that size is 
the same as the old P3s. Go figure.  In any case, as a sidelight, be VERY 
careful with those tires. Check the insides for tread separation frequently, 
and be very sensitive to any indication that they start feeling 
"out-of-round" at all. I had tread separation on two of mine almost 
simultaneously and when I mentioned that to the Pirelli engineers, they said 
-- "Yes, that had happened frequently which was the reason the design was no 
longer manufactured."

The Pirelli PZero Rossos are about as far from the P3s as you can get.  
Totally new technology, design, materials, assembly methods, everything.  
They were designed to give the same performance as the PZeros (standard 
equipment now on Jaguar XKRs and XK8s) in the dry, but be superior to any 
other performance tire in the wet.  Our testing certainly seemed to bear out 
their claims.

Sorry, I don't know what they cost.
Cheers
Gary 

In a message dated 10/9/00 5:56:02 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:

<< This is very interesting. I have P3's on both the Morgan and the BJ8, this 
tire
type is far from an ideal wet tire and I am looking for options. In a modest 
rain
(1/4" to 1/2" over several hours) the P3's loose grip making anything above a
gradual stop an interesting exercise - unless one has had ice racing, skid 
pan or
driving school experience.  How would you rate the P Zero Rossos as the 
dry/wet
tire (i.e. all around driving tire)?  Also what is the US list on these, if
possible. >>

From Ed Driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 23:22:52 -0500
Subject: Re: No LBC, no Firestone tire - response

Hi Gary

Ah! Canada, let's see an average of eight month winter per year, a month
off for
cold spring and cold fall, thus we're left with a two month driving
season; and
couple this with dry, cool, and indoor storage -my estimate is my tires
are only
20 months out of date <grin>!  Your caution is right on, they are
inspected each
time I leave home, (an external check), they appear in excellent
condition without 
"out-of-round" feeling. In part driving habits, along with proper
inflation, and
low use may speak for their longevity but I've been considering
replacement for
some time. Small plug - I found the article in the most recent "British
Car"
useful and informative. Now with your current post I've additional
material to
consider.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon


Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> The Pirelli P3s have been out of production for, what, ten years?
> Interestingly, the tread pattern on the current Michelin ZXs in that size is
> the same as the old P3s. Go figure.  In any case, as a sidelight, be VERY
> careful with those tires. Check the insides for tread separation frequently,
> and be very sensitive to any indication that they start feeling
> "out-of-round" at all. I had tread separation on two of mine almost
> simultaneously and when I mentioned that to the Pirelli engineers, they said
> -- "Yes, that had happened frequently which was the reason the design was no
> longer manufactured."
>
> The Pirelli PZero Rossos are about as far from the P3s as you can get.
> Totally new technology, design, materials, assembly methods, everything.
> They were designed to give the same performance as the PZeros (standard
> equipment now on Jaguar XKRs and XK8s) in the dry, but be superior to any
> other performance tire in the wet.  Our testing certainly seemed to bear out
> their claims.
>
> Sorry, I don't know what they cost.
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 10/9/00 5:56:02 PM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> << This is very interesting. I have P3's on both the Morgan and the BJ8, this
> tire
> type is far from an ideal wet tire and I am looking for options. In a modest
> rain
> (1/4" to 1/2" over several hours) the P3's loose grip making anything above a
> gradual stop an interesting exercise - unless one has had ice racing, skid
> pan or
> driving school experience.  How would you rate the P Zero Rossos as the
> dry/wet
> tire (i.e. all around driving tire)?  Also what is the US list on these, if
> possible. >>


From Josef.Eckert at t-mobil.de
Date: 10 Oct 2000 09:46:02 +0000
Subject: Pictures of the American UK2K tour

For those interested. Pictures of the American UK2K tour are now on

www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/Concours2000.htm

PS: Mell, is that the last or second but last beer?

Cheers,
Josef Eckert, Germany

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 06:30:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally

Gary

My Healey is painted in the BMW color.  I had a few chips on thye edge of my 
bootlid and I touched them up with the little bottle of Honda paint - it was as 
close as I hoped for.

This business of matching colors is a source of amusment for me.  My suggestion 
is to get someone with a good color-eye and  please ones self.  This List has 
been replete with discussions about how the factory  changed colors as they 
changed paint suppliers, as they changed names for Healey Blue/Grey, etc.

To my eye both the BMW and the Honda colors are excellent and available.  The 
fact that they are almost identical is onlhy a bonus for Me.

regards,

DickB

 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 10/3/00 7:10:04 PM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:
> 
> << The "unknown poster" thanks you for the confirmation regarding the Honda 
> light blue metallic.  If you go to your PPG or DuPont dealer and look through 
> his chip books I think you will find that Honda has been using this color or 
> an almost identical color through the '90s.
> 
> I also will advise you that there is a BMW color called Light Blue Metallic 
> circa 1986-7-8 which is dead-on a match for Healey Blue.  My BT7 is painted 
> with this BMW code and whenever I am at a meet people comment "Now That's the 
> correct Healey Blue !" - to my amusement I might add. >>
> 
> By logical rationcination, I conclude from your statements (i.e. Honda Teal 
> metallic   Healey Blue and BMW Light Blue Metallic = Healey blue) that the 
> Honda color and the BMW color must be exact matches for each other.  Is that 
> really true?
> Cheers
> Gary
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 08:03:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally

Randy

I posted a sort of response to Gary Anderson re this Honda/BMW comparison.

But my advice would be to go with the BMW code in a two-part - 
basecoat/clearcoat.  That's what I did and I used PPG paint but I would think 
that the same combo in Glaserit, Sikkens, DuPont, Martin Seynour, etc., would 
give you the same result. 

I know that the clearcoat is Not Concours/Original, but I think it makes for a 
more durable and shiny finish and is much easier to maintain.

DickB

 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> Thanks Dick for taking the time to track this down and also for the original
> post.  I'm sorry I couldn't find it in my archived email and give you due
> credit.
> The one minor (very minor really) problem with the Honda paint is that it
> appears very reflective, more so than the British metalic colors of the
> '60's - probably due to the clear coat which seems to add depth. I rather
> like the depth and shine.   Have you seen the Honda and BMW colors side by
> side?  If so is one less metalic or reflective than the other?
> Thanks again...
> 
> Randy Harris  (currently undergoing body & paint restoration) '66 BJ8
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 08:08:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Neil

I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas SportsCoil for many 
years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any problems at all.  (I 
also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to .030, given the way a 
gapwrench works) 

I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and coil output either 
and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.

DickB


 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to 30,
> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening the
> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be degraded....? I
> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?  Also,
> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap (gets
> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> 
> 
> >
> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
> gapped my
> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000 volts.
> The car
> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
> ..030,
> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >
> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >
> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> developed a bad
> > > starting problem.
> > >
> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect its
> 1961
> > > original coil.
> > >
> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
> istead of
> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > >
> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > >
> > > Thx in advance
> >
> >
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:39:20 -0600
Subject: Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances

Steve,

Mine (36753) has a glued on valve clearance sticker.

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8

From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:08:20 -0400
Subject: Re: New Topic

Hi John,

Although others may have differing opinions it would be my recommendation that
you check and if necessary correct the positions of the front shock plates 
rather
than start making other changes to correct your apparent camber problem.
First though I assume that you are checking the camber with the car on the
ground.        It does happen!!!!
The distance between the shock mounting plates is of course critical to camber.
Replacing the shock mount plates is not that difficult a job and the only real
solution if the originals are not there.
When the plates or the threads in the anchor nuts are damaged we have in the 
past
managed to extract all the anchor nuts from them and then install tapped 3/8"
steel plates inside the shock mounts. We install the plates after removing the
inside face of the shock mount. This provides a small degree of adjustability, 
by
virtue of the size of the holes that originally located the anchor nuts as well
as providing a very strong and reliable shock mount.
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Mogfrog1@aol.com wrote:

> Hi guys, for a new topic of discussion, I am having the following problem now
> that I am on the home stretch with the assembly of my BN6.
> I bought this car as an unfinished project and in general am very pleased
> with the quality of previous work and the parts both new and used that I
> received with the car. What I have discovered is that I have about 1/4"
> positive camber on the front wheels when in the dead ahead position. This BN6
> has front disc brake conversion and Koni shock conversion but still unitizes
> the standard Armstrong hydraulic shocker. I believe the front shock mounting
> pads may have been replaced, possibly incorrectly aligned. The trunions are
> installed correctly. My question is;  how effective are the adjustable
> trunnion bushings vs the eccentric bushing shaft or the eccentric mounting
> bolts for the hydraulic shocks? And does anyone know of a source for the
> eccentric mounting bolts for the shocks?
>
> Thanks and Cheers,
>
> John Wright




From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:37:47 -0400
Subject: Re: 

David:
Most BMC dealers in this period offered radios as dealer installed
options. One that could be considered "correct" is a Motorola radio
that had "British Motor Corpotation" on the dial.
This radio was provided to dealers through the Eastern BMC
distributor, Hambro
and was just AM (at least the ones I've seen) with pushbuttons.
Most of the ones I have seen are dual polarity with a small switch to
allow use in either positive or negative ground cars.
I currently have one working perfectly, in a 1966 Sprite Mk3. Most
used parts dealers would probably have these available if you look
around. I think they were fairly common.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: David <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 7:50 PM


>
> Hi All!
>
> Many years ago in one of my Dad's early Healeys, he had a Blaupunkt
radio. I
> am interested in finding a radio to fill the hole in the console of
my BJ8.
> She's positive ground and will stay that way.
>
> By ANY CHANCE, does anyone have an old Blaupunkt radio that they'd
like to
> sell? Ideally I'd like to find what he had. It was a standard
looking radio
> with I believe 5 pushbuttons. Two AM, two FM, and one Marine band. I
do
> think I remember that it had a switch on the back to select
operation in pos
> or neg ground cars.
>
> Barring that...I'd like to find any period correct radio preferring
that it
> includes FM. Does anyone have something like this that they'd like
to sell?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
> BJ8
> TR4A
>
>
>


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________

From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:47:32 -0400
Subject: screws for the rear fenders

Does any one know if you can get the rear fender screws that attach the
fender to the rear shoud with all the hardware/clips at a hardware
store??.
 Also what are the screws that attach the front of the rear fender the
the shut plate.  What size are they.   Should I just order the screw
kits from Moss??  Thanks Todd...


Does anybody have any 1980 MGB caburator parts???? for the Zenith
175...need the choke ass...housing with the screws in it

1959  100-6  under restoration
1980 MGB Limited  needs paint
1996 Audi A4  love it....


From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:50:46 -0700
Subject: turn signal light polishing?

My green turn signal light is just barely visable after 40 years.  The
plastic is foggy.  Has anyone developed a technique to polish this plastic
so it is a little brighter?




From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 11:02:20 EDT
Subject: Re: turn signal light polishing?

In a message dated 10/10/2000 09:52:58 Central Daylight Time, 
costan0@attglobal.net writes:

<< My green turn signal light is just barely visable after 40 years.  The
 plastic is foggy.  Has anyone developed a technique to polish this plastic
 so it is a little brighter? >>

Try some chrome polish. Do it by hand not a buffer, heats up to much with a 
buffer. Also try tooth paste.

Don
NTAHC

From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 08:47:11 -0700
Subject: Re: turn signal light polishing?

Hi Jerry,

I've been using Novus plastic polish #2 for years. Works great with a
soft cloth for most scratches or hazed plastics. For deeper scratches I
use as the lubricant with wet/dry sandpaper (400, 600, 1200, 1500) and
then do the final polish with #2 and a soft cloth. The Novus #1 is good
for cleaning and anti static properties.

I've always purchased it through acrylic material distributors but I see
Moss sells it too.

G'luck,
John

Jerry Costanzo wrote:
> 
> My green turn signal light is just barely visable after 40 years.  The
> plastic is foggy.  Has anyone developed a technique to polish this plastic
> so it is a little brighter?

From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:17:29 +0200
Subject: Re: Front End Shimmy/Shake

Hi Rudy,

what about the the famous Healey scuttle shake ? Look at:

> Fred Hunter wrote
>> Silas Elash wrote:
>>
>> I am doing a ground up resoration and have my frame about stripped.
>> I have heard mention of this "Healey scuttle problem" and that it
can be
>> fixed?  Could someone please educate me.  I will also try the
archives.
>>
>Silas:

>Here's the address of Bill Boltens' fine scuttle repair article:

>http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/body/scuttle.html


> Hi Doug,
> My BN4 always shakes at 55 - 60 MPH.  Nothing wrong with the front
end that I
> know of.  I have a neighbor with a 63 and he has the same problem.
I will
> follow this thread and maybe find a fix too.  I have spoken with
Allan
> Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel and he said that the brake drums may
be out of
> balance, but supposedly not in the early years.
> Rudy Streng

Best regards

Martin
Germany
BN 4 still in baskets



From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 13:59:36 -0700
Subject: Re: am I on right list

John: Yes, you are on the right list.   I have had good luck with interior
pieces from Sports and Classics in Darien Connecticut.  I don't have their
phone ## you will need to tell them EXACTLY what you need.  The quality and
workmanship are both first rate and resonable.  Let me know how you make out.
EDS

"John R. Draxler" wrote:

> just joined this list to hear about healey resto and maintenance
>
> seems most of the messages do not have anything to do with healeys
>
> anyone restoring a BJ8 out there?
>
> where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
> panels
>
>     http://www.tbirdranch.com
> John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
>         7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
> 715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
> Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
> "have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps





From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 14:24:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally


In a message dated 10/10/00 5:04:53 AM, dickb@cheerful.com writes:

<< 
But my advice would be to go with the BMW code in a two-part - 
basecoat/clearcoat.  That's what I did and I used PPG paint but I would think 
that the same combo in Glaserit, Sikkens, DuPont, Martin Seynour, etc., would 
give you the same result. 

I know that the clearcoat is Not Concours/Original, but I think it makes for 
a more durable and shiny finish and is much easier to maintain.

DickB >>

We'll have to get Dick to actually read the Concours Registry inspection 
policies at some point.  in those we state that modern formulas (formulae, if 
you prefer) and paint technologies may be used and won't receive deductions. 
So, owners are free to use the very best paint technology available. If they 
want to go clear-coat/color coat (which is more durable and attractive) they 
are welcome to do so. 

As for which shade to use, my bottom-line advice is: Whatever color and 
product you think you're going to use, ask your paint shop to mix a small 
amount and spray it out on a nice large piece of sheet metal (at least 12-18 
inches square) and then once it's cured, check it in bright sunlight and see 
if that's the way you want your whole car to look.  It's well worth the 
little bit of cost to make sure.  Believe me, the sprayed color WILL look 
different from the tiny chip printed on pasteboard in the sample book.
Then, paint the color you like best. If you're going for originality, try to 
compare the fresh sample to whatever sample you've got -- another restored 
car, an original car in the right color, or a sample of the original color 
off your own car. The worst situation is one where everyday you look at the 
car and it isn't quite the picture that was in your dreams.
Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 14:28:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances


In a message dated 10/10/00 6:42:53 AM, sailer@srv.net writes:

<< 
Steve,

Mine (36753) has a glued on valve clearance sticker.

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 >>

Our best information is that the change from riveted valve clearance and 
Austin label to glued-on versions occured at engine number 29K/10271.  This 
would be your best reference, rather than the car/chassis number since the 
engines were installed in order, as far as we know, but the cars weren't 
built up in strict chassis number sequence.
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:31:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

John/Jim/Richard,

That's OK for the later cars, say post 61. For earlier cars such as 100/6s which
ran pretty much as road spec, or if you are looking for the appearance that a 
car
might have had on one of those rallies on which you weren't allowed to strip 
most
things off (e.g. The Alpine), then a badge-bar of the sort much loved by British
drivers in the late 50s and early sixties works well. They are available from AH
Spares among others.

Peter Dzwig

John Trifari wrote:

> Jim/Richard--check the April96 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine.  We did an
> article by Hiroshi Takemori of the Japan AHC on a set of brackets that mount
> where the front in the holes for the front bumper supports.   Hiroshi included
> a detailed 3-vu drawing of teh bracket with dimensions.  The late Bill Austill
> welded up a set of these for the BN1.  Regards,  John Trifari   1955 BN1/1965
> BJ8
>
> "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
>
> > Jim,
> >
> > The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame in
> > replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe that Cape
> > International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best regards.  rjh
> > >
> > >How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do you use
> > the
> > >brackets that supported the bumper ?
> > >
> > >Jim L.
> > >56 BN2
> > >





From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 16:28:10 EDT
Subject: Re: 

samncyna@netzero.net writes:<< Most BMC dealers in this period offered radios 
as dealer installed
 options >>

True. I found out when I was looking for one recently it was hard to find a 
Healey radio from a Healey used parts supplier. But the same radios were 
installed in MGB's and the MG guys had baskets of them for around $40 each. 
Be sure to get the knobs and trim pieces because they are hard to find by 
themselves.

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Note address change from BGAHC@aol.com

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 17:04:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Mr. Rogers

If your idea of a "tiresome, off-topic" subject is Firestone Tires,  you may be 
doomed to restricting your driving to your VW.   This two-seat 100-Six you 
covet will be more than forty years old when you get it and if you aren't 
concerned about it being safe to drive you should confine your driving to empty 
parking lots and soccer fields - certainly not on the public highways where 
tens of thousands of innocent people will be accompanying you.

There have now been Five Days of Hearings in the House of Representatives and 
the Senate; Bills are pending in both chambers; and the NTSB has added about a 
dozen more Firestone models and sizes to its Investigation; NTSB has also added 
several other manufacturers to Firestone.

Most of the people on this List own several cars, including an SUV or a Pickup 
in many, many cases.

If you don't think automotive safety and defective tires are proper subjects 
for a List about cars you should be staying in Mr Roger's Neighborhood and not 
lurking and listening to serious people.

DickB


 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> 
> > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> >
> >
> > . " Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
> > on
> > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times on the same
> > topic)
> > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd guess that many of
> > the
> > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they don't want to
> > get
> > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions."
> > >
> > > Ray G
> > > Colorado
> > >
> >
> 
> To the group:
> 
> I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted anything on
> this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an owner). I do a lot
> of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome, off topic
> threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something that I've
> seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good solution!
> Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing very little
> become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek barbs' rarely
> come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list. Trying too hard
> to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not  uncommon forms of
> attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these inevitable problems
> would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority. So what am I
> suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what interests you
> (Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking behavior' of
> those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm not very 'thin
> skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them privately if
> you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from seeing me get
> my comeuppance.
> 
> Tim Rogers - - - ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a 100-SIX (two
> seater?)
> thr@stny.rr.com
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From type79 at ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 17:29:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Dick and Tim,
I am going to chime in on this thread to stand and be counted as a list member 
that is growing tired of the off-topic postings.

I thought that Tim's message was clear, concise, and timely and Dick, I don't 
think it was deserving of the type of  response you posted.

I would disagree on one of your points regarding enthusiasts on the list 
wanting this information.

Being enthusiasts, we already get that info from other sources: Newspapers, TV, 
Online News Sites, and Other Printed Publications.

With regards to safety, everyone on this list ignores that issue by simply 
driving their Healey down the road sitting behind that metal spear known as the 
steering column. Let's be serious.

I don't disagree with you regarding the importance of the 
"Bridgestone/Firestone" issue. I just don't agree that a discussion of truck 
tires has any relevance to Austin-Healeys.

jay fishbein
wallingford, ct
HAN-6
Innocenti-950
Innocenti-S

dickb@cheerful.com wrote:

> Mr. Rogers
>
> If your idea of a "tiresome, off-topic" subject is Firestone Tires,  you may 
>be doomed to restricting your driving to your VW.   This two-seat 100-Six you 
>covet will be more than forty years old when you get it and if you aren't 
>concerned about it being safe to drive you should confine your driving to 
>empty parking lots and soccer fields - certainly not on the public highways 
>where tens of thousands of innocent people will be accompanying you.
>
> There have now been Five Days of Hearings in the House of Representatives and 
>the Senate; Bills are pending in both chambers; and the NTSB has added about a 
>dozen more Firestone models and sizes to its Investigation; NTSB has also 
>added several other manufacturers to Firestone.
>
> Most of the people on this List own several cars, including an SUV or a 
>Pickup in many, many cases.
>
> If you don't think automotive safety and defective tires are proper subjects 
>for a List about cars you should be staying in Mr Roger's Neighborhood and not 
>lurking and listening to serious people.
>
> DickB
>
>  ---- you wrote:
>
> > To the group:
> >
> > I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted anything on
> > this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an owner). I do a lot
> > of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome, off topic
> > threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something that I've
> > seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good solution!
> > Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing very little
> > become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek barbs' rarely
> > come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list. Trying too hard
> > to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not  uncommon forms of
> > attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these inevitable problems
> > would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority. So what am I
> > suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what interests you
> > (Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking behavior' of
> > those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm not very 'thin
> > skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them privately if
> > you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from seeing me get
> > my comeuppance.
> >
> > Tim Rogers


From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:19:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Goodbye

Dick, rudeness is your specialty, so why don't you take your
endless Firestone story and shove it somewhere else.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59ug


----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Tim Rogers <thr@stny.rr.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 10, 2000 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> Mr. Rogers
>
> If your idea of a "tiresome, off-topic" subject is Firestone
Tires,  you may be doomed to restricting your driving to your VW.
This two-seat 100-Six you covet will be more than forty years old
when you get it and if you aren't concerned about it being safe to
drive you should confine your driving to empty parking lots and
soccer fields - certainly not on the public highways where tens of
thousands of innocent people will be accompanying you.
>
> There have now been Five Days of Hearings in the House of
Representatives and the Senate; Bills are pending in both
chambers; and the NTSB has added about a dozen more Firestone
models and sizes to its Investigation; NTSB has also added several
other manufacturers to Firestone.
>
> Most of the people on this List own several cars, including an
SUV or a Pickup in many, many cases.
>
> If you don't think automotive safety and defective tires are
proper subjects for a List about cars you should be staying in Mr
Roger's Neighborhood and not lurking and listening to serious
people.
>
> DickB
>
>
>  ---- you wrote:
> >
> >
> > > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > . " Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
> > > on
> > > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times
on the same
> > > topic)
> > > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd
guess that many of
> > > the
> > > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they
don't want to
> > > get
> > > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions."
> > > >
> > > > Ray G
> > > > Colorado
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > To the group:
> >
> > I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted
anything on
> > this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an
owner). I do a lot
> > of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome,
off topic
> > threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something
that I've
> > seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good
solution!
> > Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing
very little
> > become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek
barbs' rarely
> > come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list.
Trying too hard
> > to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not
uncommon forms of
> > attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these
inevitable problems
> > would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority.
So what am I
> > suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what
interests you
> > (Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking
behavior' of
> > those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm
not very 'thin
> > skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them
privately if
> > you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from
seeing me get
> > my comeuppance.
> >
> > Tim Rogers - - - ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a
100-SIX (two
> > seater?)
> > thr@stny.rr.com
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>



From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:42:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Nailing that Healey color finally

Peter,

I'm moving this week and I put all of my Healey stuff and paint stuff in a 
storage locker so I can't put my hands on it.

I never did have a Duplicolor of the BMW color - which is why I eyeballed the 
rack of Duplicolor bottles and found the Honda Blue Metallic - and when I tried 
it, it was an almost perfect match for the BMW.  As I have said, many who have 
seen my car state that it is "exactly the original Healey Blue", which makes me 
smile.

DickB

 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> You wouldn't happen to know the duplicolor part number by chance?
> 
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dickb@cheerful.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:08 PM
> To: Coop1; austin healey list
> Subject: Re: Nailing that Healey color finally
> 
> 
> 
> Randy
> 
> The "unknown poster" thanks you for the confirmation regarding the Honda
> light blue metallic.  If you go to your PPG or DuPont dealer and look
> through his chip books I think you will find that Honda has been using this
> color or an almost identical color through the '90s.
> 
> I also will advise you that there is a BMW color called Light Blue Metallic
> circa 1986-7-8 which is dead-on a match for Healey Blue.  My BT7 is painted
> with this BMW code and whenever I am at a meet people comment "Now That's
> the correct Healey Blue !" - to my amusement I might add.
> 
> The great advantage of using a modern paint like the Honda or the BMW is
> that it can be mixed in small quantities by any autopaint jobber and you can
> buy touch-up bottles and spray cans at any Pep Boys or equivalent.
> Dupli-color produces their products starting about three years after
> introduction and maintains those colors in their inventories for twenty
> years or more.
> 
> DickB a/k/a "The Unknown Poster
> '62 BT7 Tri-Carb
> 
>  ---- you wrote:
> >
> > A month or so ago there was a lengthy thread discussing the "correct"
> Healey
> > Blue color. Somebody, and I don't remember who, stated that Honda was
> > replicating that color almost exactly on its late model sedans.  I was
> > dubious of this as my wife drives a late model Honda with the ice blue
> color
> > and it isn't close to the color of my BJ8.
> > Today I spotted the color the poster was referring to and damn if it isn't
> > knat's ass on.  I called the Honda dealer and got the color name - it's
> > "Teal Ice" on their year 2000/2001 Civics.  Other than a bit too much
> metal
> > flake, the color is a dead ringer for the Healey Blue we all know and love
> > (you know, with the slight greenish hue in the sun).  I'm definitely going
> > to spec this color for my upcoming repaint.     Just thought you'd like to
> > know and thank the unknown poster for his insight.
> > Randy aka Coop
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Lhbook1 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:57:35 EDT
Subject: Re. Goodbye

DickB

I would like to add my voice to those who feel that off-topic postings have 
little use on an Austin Healey list.  I also believe the tone of your remarks 
to Mr. Rogers was not necessary or warranted and sadly brings down the level 
of this list.  The Healey list is where I choose to go to learn about the 
marque I enjoy - and that is all I want.  We live in a culture that bombards 
us with information of every description on a daily basis.  Please allow some 
of us a small heaven where we may relax with one of our simple pleasures.

Michael Aikey
Albany, NY
BJ8

From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:06:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances

As with so many other details of the cars, the exact change points of the
valve cover labels could only be known if the data were collected and
analyzed, and assuming that no one has changed the parts since manufacture.
My engine is 11327, and it came to me in 1984 with riveted metal plates that
I would bet were the originals.  This is more than a thousand engine numbers
past 10271.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC  USA




-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances


>
>
>In a message dated 10/10/00 6:42:53 AM, sailer@srv.net writes:
>
><<
>Steve,
>
>Mine (36753) has a glued on valve clearance sticker.
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8 >>
>
>Our best information is that the change from riveted valve clearance and
>Austin label to glued-on versions occured at engine number 29K/10271.  This
>would be your best reference, rather than the car/chassis number since the
>engines were installed in order, as far as we know, but the cars weren't
>built up in strict chassis number sequence.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:43:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it was stated
that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider gap.  A wider
gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better combustion.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>
>Neil
>
>I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas SportsCoil for
many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any problems at
all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to .030, given the
way a gapwrench works)
>
>I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and coil output
either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
>
>DickB
>
>
> ---- you wrote:
>>
>> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to
30,
>> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
>> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening
the
>> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
>> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be
degraded....? I
>> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?
Also,
>> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap
(gets
>> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
>> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
>> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
>> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>>
>>
>> >
>> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
>> gapped my
>> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000
volts.
>> The car
>> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
>> ..030,
>> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
>> >
>> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
>> >
>> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
>> developed a bad
>> > > starting problem.
>> > >
>> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect
its
>> 1961
>> > > original coil.
>> > >
>> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
>> istead of
>> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
>> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
>> > >
>> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
>> > >
>> > > Thx in advance
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------


From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 17:01:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Re. Goodbye

        Hear, hear    I even answered and joined in on the Firestone subject
a while back (sorry, I'll never do it again, I promise)  I find the replies
about how to polish a foggy warning lamp far more interesting than any
general outpouring of info on some non-related topic.  Keep up the Healey
info coming.    Oh, and I have a question,   What does LBC stand for?   I
feel stupid for asking, and I know it means "Big Healey" or  "Healey"   just
can't make the abbreviation work.........Little Big Car?   Large British
Car?   Last Beautiful Convertible?      What?        
 

John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Lhbook1@aol.com [mailto:Lhbook1@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 3:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re. Goodbye


DickB

I would like to add my voice to those who feel that off-topic postings have
little use on an Austin Healey list.  I also believe the tone of your
remarks
to Mr. Rogers was not necessary or warranted and sadly brings down the level
of this list.  The Healey list is where I choose to go to learn about the
marque I enjoy - and that is all I want.  We live in a culture that bombards
us with information of every description on a daily basis.  Please allow
some
of us a small heaven where we may relax with one of our simple pleasures.

Michael Aikey
Albany, NY
BJ8

From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 16:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Marcus Chambers' 90th Birthhday

I thought many listers might find this interesting; please let me know
(perhaps privately).  This will appear as one part of my regular column in
the November Austin-Healey Magazine:
---------------
Marcus Chambers

The name Marcus Chambers will be familiar to many of you if you have done
any reading on the competition history of the marque.  If you haven’t I can
only encourage it.  The Austin-Healey has a fascinating and distinguished
competition history, and if you’re like many others it will only enhance
your pleasure and pride in owning one of these historic sports cars if you
appreciate some of its history.  (See list of books available from the club
in the Austin-Healey Resource Book; the books are available through club
Vice-President Jerry Wall).

One of the men responsible for much of the marque’s fine competition history
is Marcus Chambers, Manager of the British Motor Corporation’s Competition
Department.  Marcus recently passed a milestone in the form of his ninetieth
birthday, and I took the occasion to write to him on the club’s behalf.  I’d
like to share both my letter and his response with all of you.

Marcus Chambers
Oxon
United Kingdom

Dear Mr. Chambers,

On behalf of the 2200+ members of the Austin-Healey Club USA, please accept
my congratulations and best wishes on the occasion of your upcoming 90th
birthday.

Please also permit me to take this opportunity to thank you for your pivotal
role in establishing the place in history of the marque Austin-Healey. 
Without your efforts and those of your Competitions Department, there can be
little doubt that the Austin-Healey would not be as highly regarded and as
highly sought-after as it is today.

The achievements that you orchestrated stand as inspiring occasions that
remain warmly remembered and venerated, and we who still preserve and enjoy
these great automobiles thank you for all of your many contributions.

With kindest regards,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA

------------

Reid Trummel
Austin-Healey Club USA
San Jose, California

Dear Mr. Trummel,

Thank you for your kind letter.  I have waited until things have returned to
normal, before telling you that I actually reached my 90th in good order!

In passing, I think that I should just say that I was very lucky to be in
the right place at the right time.  I had returned to England, with my wife,
after nearly six years of "Empire Building."  That consisted of working for
government schemes which were founded with the idea of leaving a colony in a
better state than it had been before the war, or helping to produce food or
materials which would help things.  We felt that the time had come to return
to my old love, motor sport, where most of my friends were enjoying
themselves.

That period had helped me to sharpen up my management skills.  I was
selected to join the British Motor Corporation at a time when motor sport
management in the U.K. needed to become more professional, and dare I say
it, a little ruthless, if we were to compete with the continentals.

I was also able to find some drivers, who as amateurs, had performed
brilliantly in some of the great European rallies, and who were of a
different calibre to the others.  My efforts in that direction were ably
assisted, firstly by John Gott, and later by John Sprinzel and Willy Cave. 
On the Technical side we had tremendous help from my old friend, Geoffrey
Healey, and as time went on we were able to train drivers such as Pat Moss
and Ann Wisdom by letting them drive in minor events in less competitive but
reliable vehicles.  Of course the secret of the dedicated mechanics that
formed my department, was that John Thornley knew every employee at MG, and
picked out the very best for me.

Then the moment arrived when we had the Big Healeys and the drivers who
could handle them and who were soon asking for more and more power.  You
know the rest.

Please convey my thanks for your kind thoughts on the occasion of my 90th to
your members.

Yours very sincerely,
Marcus Chambers
---------------

I hope that this was an interesting change of pace from the usual tech stuff
on the list, and I'd be happy to post these little diversions from time to
time.  Please let me know if you enjoy this sort of thing on the list or
would rather stick to tech, restoration, parts and service sources, problem
diagnosis, etc.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel 
Tampa, Florida 
BN2 
BN2 
AN5 "Lucky" 
http://www.healey.org




















_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "Colin O'Brien" <cob at atg.com.au>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:10:09 +1000
Subject: A new goodbye

... well almost.

As an overseas reader and occasional contributor I'm also getting to the
point of unsubscribing.  Whether or not it is easy to "just press delete" it
is still disturbing to unwittingly open these unpleasant exchanges.

Can't you all exercise some restraint just stop it.

Best regards to all the genuine subscribers,

Colin O'Brien

From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:07:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Re. Goodbye

Dick B,

         I'd also like to voice my to others to say that your comments were
unfounded and childish.  Do us all a favor and please refrain from that
type of soapbox diatribe on the Healey list.  

  


From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:53:35 EDT
Subject: Re: re : Valve clearances

And to add to the confusion, the label riveted to my 100-Six valve cover says 
"valve clearance .012" hot" while the Austin Healey 100-6/300 Shop Manual 
says on page A.9, " ... clearance of .012 in. (.30 mm) for both inlet and 
exhaust, clearance being set with the engine cold."
I guess that's why when I asked Norman Nock he said it doesn't really matter, 
either is O.K.
John
100-Six   Erika the Red


From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:42:12 -0400
Subject: RE: carb overflow problem

Just looked it up in my BMC shop manual.  If you have
nylon floats on HS6s, the float setting is 1/8".

A tip I got from Bruce Phillips at the Healey Surgeons:

Turn on the ignition long enough for the fuel pump to stop
running (float bowls filled) and then turn it off.
Now remove the piston chanber and piston from the carburetor
so that you can see into the jet.  The top of the jet should
be above the level of the fuel.  Pull the choke all of the way
out and you should be able to see fuel comming over the top of the
jet.

Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:00 PM
To: francois wildi; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: carb overflow problem



Francois,

I would first check the float setting.  Seems to me a 5/16 gap between the
lever and the face of the cover is specified.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: francois wildi <fwildi@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 1:13 PM
Subject: carb overflow problem


>
> I am just running my 5-years resto. BJ7 and I am experiencing problem
> with the carbs (Hs6). 4 times out of 5, one or the other will keep
> overflowing right from the start when I turn the ingnition key.
> Slightly knocking the chamber lid with a nylon hammer does not
> improved the situation (I helped me un-stuck the float on my TR3 a
> couple of years back).
>
> Do I have to change the needles and seats?
>
> Thanks
>
> Francois
> BJ7
> TR3
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/


From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at slip.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:37:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Well, this is a hardware question, and I'm a sofware guy, but I'll take a stab 
at this.

The secondary circuit is in series, and the voltage developed across the gap is
proportional to the resistance: the greater the gap, the greater the 
resistance.  If the gap
is smaller; i.e. less resistance, the spark will occur with a smaller voltage 
drop across the
gap.  Even if the coil is capable of producing 40,000 volts the spark will 
occur at less
voltage with a smaller gap.  The remainder of the voltage, I believe, is 
dissipated in the
coil and throughout the rest of the secondary wiring.  High compression engines 
require
a greater voltage due to the increased resistance from the (more) highly 
compressed
gases.

This is similar to how distributor-less ignitions work, some of which fire two 
plugs at the
same time.  The two plugs are in series, but one plug fires on the compression 
stroke 
where the compressed gases produce much more resistance than the other plug, 
which
is "firing" on the exhaust stoke, whose gases produce less resistance.  
Therefore, nearly
all the voltage is expended jumping the gap on the compression plug, producing 
the
strongest spark.

Any hardware guys (Greg M?) please correct me if I'm wrong.

Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell                           bspidell@slip.net (home)
San Jose, CA.                      bspidell@teknema.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)   `56 100M (Dad's)   PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


> 
> Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it was stated
> that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider gap.  A wider
> gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better combustion.
> 
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC  USA
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> 
> 
> >
> >Neil
> >
> >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas SportsCoil for
> many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any problems at
> all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to .030, given the
> way a gapwrench works)
> >
> >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and coil output
> either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to
> 30,
> >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
> >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening
> the
> >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
> >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be
> degraded....? I
> >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?
> Also,
> >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap
> (gets
> >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
> >> gapped my
> >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000
> volts.
> >> The car
> >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
> >> ..030,
> >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >> >
> >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> >> developed a bad
> >> > > starting problem.
> >> > >
> >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect
> its
> >> 1961
> >> > > original coil.
> >> > >
> >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
> >> istead of
> >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> >> > >
> >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> >> > >
> >> > > Thx in advance
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 


From "David" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 22:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


Hi Guys,

As an electronic engineer, I know a little bit about the voltage/spark
relationship.

Think of it this way....the wider the gap, the more voltage that is required
to throw an arc across that gap. That's how lightning happens. Voltage is
defined as a difference of potential. It's a measure of charge between TWO
entities. You cannot have a voltage if you don't have two entities....you
just have a lump of electrons. You need one entity to have a bunch of
positive electrons, and another entity with a bunch of negative electrons.
These entities could be a cloud and the earth....a person and a charged mass
(ouch)....or a center electrode and an outer electrode, or any two
quantities of mass. If you add electrons of one charge to one entity, and
the other maintains whatever charge (or lack of charge), you have a
difference. The polarity is defined as one having a positive charge and the
other having a negative charge. This difference in charge is a voltage! it's
a difference of potential that makes a current flow.

Current can flow in a wire, a resistor, or any material that will pass the
electrons. The higher the voltage the more current will flow for a given
resistance. To use the best analogy that I know, think of fluid or
hydraulics. Voltage equals the pressure of the liquid, while current equals
the flow of the liquid. The higher the pressure (voltage), the higher the
flow (current). The resistance is the size of the hose. It would take more
pressure to get the same flow in a smaller hose.

Arcing is a special case. How far an arc will jump depends on the
voltage....and on what the medium is. Air....compressed air...how much
moisture, etc. A general but very crude rule of thumb is that it takes about
10,000 volts to jump 1/4 inch in free air. Now that is defined as our normal
atmospheric pressure which I think is 15 or so PSI.

So....you have a particular gap. It will take a given voltage POTENTIAL to
jump that gap and throw an arc. If you widen the gap, you need a higher
voltage. That's it really. So if you have a higher output coil, it means
that it generates a higher DIFFERENCE of potential between the gap of your
spark plug, and the body of the plug. If you have that higher voltage, you
can widen your gap and still get a spark. If the gap it narrower, the higher
voltage will just find it easier to jump that gap. Continue to widen the
gap, and eventually you'll no longer get a spark. You would then need to
raise the voltage (your sport coil). The intensity of the arc is dependant
on the current (flow). The higher the current, the hotter that spark will
be.

Now we need an automotive engineer to talk more about what happens in the
combustion chamber. The effects of pressure and the air fuel mixture
certainly come into play, but I am not an expert on that subject. I have
always heard that the higher pressures make it harder to get your arc. That
means that the required voltage to jump that gap changes with those effects.
If in air it takes 25,000 volts to jump a given gap in free dry air, it may
take 30,000 to jump the same gap in the combustion chamber.

Well I hope I didn't bore you guys, and I hope this was clear enough to
help.

Cheers,
Dave

BJ8
TR4A
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>
> Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it was stated
> that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider gap.  A wider
> gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better combustion.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
>
> >
> >Neil
> >
> >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas SportsCoil for
> many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any problems at
> all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to .030, given the
> way a gapwrench works)
> >
> >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and coil output
> either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times
to
> 30,
> >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it
ran
> >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening
> the
> >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap
is
> >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be
> degraded....? I
> >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?
> Also,
> >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap
> (gets
> >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out)
and
> >> gapped my
> >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000
> volts.
> >> The car
> >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035
and
> >> ..030,
> >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >> >
> >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> >> developed a bad
> >> > > starting problem.
> >> > >
> >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect
> its
> >> 1961
> >> > > original coil.
> >> > >
> >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an
inch
> >> istead of
> >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> >> > >
> >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> >> > >
> >> > > Thx in advance
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>


From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:24:24 -0600
Subject: BMEP

At the risk of appearing stupid, what is the BMEP mentioned in the manual?
Is this the compression. I ask because I have just got my newly
reconditioned MK2 tricarb engine back from the rebuilders and found the
compression to be 145 to 155lbs/in". Is this the correct amount?
Thanks for your advice
BRUCE STARKE
BT7 tricarb
BJ7


From "RL Chrysler" <lchrysl at fhs.csu.McMaster.CA>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 22:28:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Marcus Chambers' 90th Birthhday

Re sending bits of this sort of material, yes, yes, yes, please do post this
sort of thing. What a refreshing change of pace for this list. Most of us
don't have the contacts to be in touch with such interesting and influencial
people, and this makes for a very good pipeline to hear of such things.
I only wish you would perhaps convey the best wishes of all Healey owners
everywhere, whether they be in the AHCUSA, or otherwise.
Rich Chrysler
> I hope that this was an interesting change of pace from the usual tech
stuff
> on the list, and I'd be happy to post these little diversions from time to
> time.  Please let me know if you enjoy this sort of thing on the list or
> would rather stick to tech, restoration, parts and service sources,
problem
> diagnosis, etc.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> BN2
> BN2
> AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>


From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 22:42:22 EDT
Subject: Paint samples

Another hint to add to the already good advice:   Yes, do spray samples on 
plates to get an idea of how the color will look.  And, always use the same 
primer underneath the paint you intend to use on the car.  Sometimes, the 
primer will add some elements to the final shade that you didn't expect.  
There are red, light gray, dark gray, black, gray/green, and more primers out 
there.   Your paint guy can often point you in the right direction as to what 
is normally used under certain colors.

 

John    
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!) 
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.

From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 23:01:22 -0400
Subject: Nailing that healey color finally

I am working on BU.2 , getting the correct ( as close as humanly poss. , I
know oxidation, heat, time, ect.) but have a really nice specimen to work
with.

 The healey blue must have a very fine metallic content. I have not seen the
BMW color but if its super close would be interested. will get a sample
mixed up.

Is this a base/clear ? only interested in single stage.
BTW watch clearcoats they will haze from over washing and waxing , most
clears are very soft and will go thru after repeated buffing.

Will keep you posted on what Ifind if anyone interested. There were many
scans on this color .I had one done on my sample and it was way too blue.
Now I have to work hands on with my paint jobber till its perfect. Metallic
content was perf. needs to be gray/greener.

Carroll


From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:20:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Marcus Chambers' 90th Birthhday

I enjoyed the response and the "oral" history.  Keep up the good work.

----------
>From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Marcus Chambers' 90th Birthhday
>Date: Tue, Oct 10, 2000, 5:55 PM
>

>
> I thought many listers might find this interesting; please let me know
> (perhaps privately).  This will appear as one part of my regular column in
> the November Austin-Healey Magazine:
> ---------------
> Marcus Chambers
>
> The name Marcus Chambers will be familiar to many of you if you have done
> any reading on the competition history of the marque.  If you haven’t I can
> only encourage it.  The Austin-Healey has a fascinating and distinguished
> competition history, and if you’re like many others it will only enhance
> your pleasure and pride in owning one of these historic sports cars if you
> appreciate some of its history.  (See list of books available from the club
> in the Austin-Healey Resource Book; the books are available through club
> Vice-President Jerry Wall).
>
> One of the men responsible for much of the marque’s fine competition history
> is Marcus Chambers, Manager of the British Motor Corporation’s Competition
> Department.  Marcus recently passed a milestone in the form of his ninetieth
> birthday, and I took the occasion to write to him on the club’s behalf.  I’d
> like to share both my letter and his response with all of you.
>
> Marcus Chambers
> Oxon
> United Kingdom
>
> Dear Mr. Chambers,
>
> On behalf of the 2200+ members of the Austin-Healey Club USA, please accept
> my congratulations and best wishes on the occasion of your upcoming 90th
> birthday.
>
> Please also permit me to take this opportunity to thank you for your pivotal
> role in establishing the place in history of the marque Austin-Healey.
> Without your efforts and those of your Competitions Department, there can be
> little doubt that the Austin-Healey would not be as highly regarded and as
> highly sought-after as it is today.
>
> The achievements that you orchestrated stand as inspiring occasions that
> remain warmly remembered and venerated, and we who still preserve and enjoy
> these great automobiles thank you for all of your many contributions.
>
> With kindest regards,
> Reid Trummel
> President, Austin-Healey Club USA
>
> ------------
>
> Reid Trummel
> Austin-Healey Club USA
> San Jose, California
>
> Dear Mr. Trummel,
>
> Thank you for your kind letter.  I have waited until things have returned to
> normal, before telling you that I actually reached my 90th in good order!
>
> In passing, I think that I should just say that I was very lucky to be in
> the right place at the right time.  I had returned to England, with my wife,
> after nearly six years of "Empire Building."  That consisted of working for
> government schemes which were founded with the idea of leaving a colony in a
> better state than it had been before the war, or helping to produce food or
> materials which would help things.  We felt that the time had come to return
> to my old love, motor sport, where most of my friends were enjoying
> themselves.
>
> That period had helped me to sharpen up my management skills.  I was
> selected to join the British Motor Corporation at a time when motor sport
> management in the U.K. needed to become more professional, and dare I say
> it, a little ruthless, if we were to compete with the continentals.
>
> I was also able to find some drivers, who as amateurs, had performed
> brilliantly in some of the great European rallies, and who were of a
> different calibre to the others.  My efforts in that direction were ably
> assisted, firstly by John Gott, and later by John Sprinzel and Willy Cave.
> On the Technical side we had tremendous help from my old friend, Geoffrey
> Healey, and as time went on we were able to train drivers such as Pat Moss
> and Ann Wisdom by letting them drive in minor events in less competitive but
> reliable vehicles.  Of course the secret of the dedicated mechanics that
> formed my department, was that John Thornley knew every employee at MG, and
> picked out the very best for me.
>
> Then the moment arrived when we had the Big Healeys and the drivers who
> could handle them and who were soon asking for more and more power.  You
> know the rest.
>
> Please convey my thanks for your kind thoughts on the occasion of my 90th to
> your members.
>
> Yours very sincerely,
> Marcus Chambers
> ---------------
>
> I hope that this was an interesting change of pace from the usual tech stuff
> on the list, and I'd be happy to post these little diversions from time to
> time.  Please let me know if you enjoy this sort of thing on the list or
> would rather stick to tech, restoration, parts and service sources, problem
> diagnosis, etc.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> BN2
> BN2
> AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
> 

From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 23:48:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

I won't argue the point Steve, since I have no hard data to back it up, but 
to me the idea that a bigger spark gives better combustion seems like snake 
oil. It's basically saying that the spark can ignite other, non burning 
portions of the fuel/air mixture, that also happen to be close enough to 
the electrodes, faster than the flame propagation speed can get to them.

bk
-----------------------------
At 03:43 PM 10/10/00 , you wrote:

>Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it was stated
>that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider gap.  A wider
>gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better combustion.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
>To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
>Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
>
> >
> >Neil
> >
> >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas SportsCoil for
>many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any problems at
>all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to .030, given the
>way a gapwrench works)
> >
> >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and coil output
>either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> >
> >DickB
> >
> >
> > ---- you wrote:
> >>
> >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my plugs 3 times to
>30,
> >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I found it ran
> >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple of widening
>the
> >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter what the gap is
> >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will be
>degraded....? I
> >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening the gap...?
>Also,
> >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such a wide gap
>(gets
> >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it shorted out) and
> >> gapped my
> >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001" per 1000
>volts.
> >> The car
> >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have used .035 and
> >> ..030,
> >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> >> >
> >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of a sudden
> >> developed a bad
> >> > > starting problem.
> >> > >
> >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and now suspect
>its
> >> 1961
> >> > > original coil.
> >> > >
> >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to .030" of an inch
> >> istead of
> >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of 25,000
> >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> >> > >
> >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> >> > >
> >> > > Thx in advance
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------


From "William H. Woodruff" <woodruff at hartwellengineering.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 00:08:37 -0700
Subject: Need engine parts, hello

Hello all,

        I know its bad form to post to multiple lists.  Perhaps you'll forgive 
me
just this once.  I can't believe its really been 3 years (or more!) since
I've
participated in these mail groups and close to 10 since I first discovered
them.
Of course my Healey restoration still isn't done; but then you probably
already
knew that ...

        For those of you who don't know me or worked really hard to forget, I
should introduce my cars.  One is a convertible GT6 (Spit bodyshell on a
GT6)
and a AH 3000 MK III.  The Healey has been under the knife for YEARS now,
which brings me to the point of this email.

        I managed to lose my main bearing caps and connecting rods (and god 
knows
what
else) for my 3000 MK III.  The move to San Francisco from Michigan was not
without
its hidden costs.  If any kind SOL could hook me up with these parts, I'd
really appreciate it.  Please send me something offline.

Bill Woodruff
woodruff@hartwellengineering.com

P.S. Are there any new parts suppliers I should know about?


From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:32:11 -0400
Subject: Re: BMEP


Hi Bruce,

BMEP stands for Brake Mean Effective Pressure from there the old gray cells
are failing me.
It is however a measure of the pressure required to produce a particular
torque figure in a particular engine as I recall.
It is not the compression figure that you get on a comperssion gauge which by
the way should relly only be used for comparative purposes because it can
change dramatically with things like engine temperature, cranking speed,
throttle plate position etc.
Hope that helps. I'm sure that someone out there has the actual definition of
BMEP.

--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Bruce Starke wrote:

> At the risk of appearing stupid, what is the BMEP mentioned in the manual?
> Is this the compression. I ask because I have just got my newly
> reconditioned MK2 tricarb engine back from the rebuilders and found the
> compression to be 145 to 155lbs/in". Is this the correct amount?
> Thanks for your advice
> BRUCE STARKE
> BT7 tricarb
> BJ7


From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:30:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

>The higher the current, the hotter that spark will
> be.

David, so for any given spark voltage, as the gap (ie resistance)
is reduced the spark gets hotter? Then its always going to be a
trade off between the length of the arc versus its thickness (ie
intensity) and maybe its temperature.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug




From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:36:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Steve, it may be that the flame front propagates with time
squared, ie geometric in its volumetric expansion rate.
Hypothetically, if you start the ignition process with two
molecules instead of one, you might finish the burn twice as fast.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 11, 2000 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>
> I won't argue the point Steve, since I have no hard data to back
it up, but
> to me the idea that a bigger spark gives better combustion seems
like snake
> oil. It's basically saying that the spark can ignite other, non
burning
> portions of the fuel/air mixture, that also happen to be close
enough to
> the electrodes, faster than the flame propagation speed can get
to them.
>
> bk
> -----------------------------
> At 03:43 PM 10/10/00 , you wrote:
>
> >Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it
was stated
> >that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider
gap.  A wider
> >gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better
combustion.
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >Havelock, NC  USA
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> >To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> ><healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> >Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Neil
> > >
> > >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas
SportsCoil for
> >many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any
problems at
> >all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to
.030, given the
> >way a gapwrench works)
> > >
> > >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and
coil output
> >either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> > >
> > >DickB
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my
plugs 3 times to
> >30,
> > >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I
found it ran
> > >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple
of widening
> >the
> > >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter
what the gap is
> > >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will
be
> >degraded....? I
> > >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening
the gap...?
> >Also,
> > >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such
a wide gap
> >(gets
> > >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> > >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> > >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> >
> > >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it
shorted out) and
> > >> gapped my
> > >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001"
per 1000
> >volts.
> > >> The car
> > >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have
used .035 and
> > >> ..030,
> > >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> > >> >
> > >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of
a sudden
> > >> developed a bad
> > >> > > starting problem.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and
now suspect
> >its
> > >> 1961
> > >> > > original coil.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to
.030" of an inch
> > >> istead of
> > >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of
25,000
> > >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Thx in advance
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>



From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:49:48 -0400
Subject: Re: BMEP

Reaching way back, if I have any gray cells left (burn rate with
vodka is very high) , BMEP is actually the average pressure in a
combustion cylinder over the period of one full revolution (ie the
compression and exhaust stroke).

In long stroke slow reving steam and natural gas engines, we used
to have a pressure pen device that drew the combustion chamber
pressure on a graph that was moving with the connecting rod. The
result was a wobbly circle on square graph paper. We would count
up the little squares inside the circle, do a linear conversion
and voilá, BMEP for that engine, at a specific load and RPM.
Whether the BMEP changes or how it changes for different
conditions, I don't remember.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
To: Bruce Starke <bstarke@redshift.bc.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 11, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: Re: BMEP


>
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> BMEP stands for Brake Mean Effective Pressure from there the old
gray cells
> are failing me.
> It is however a measure of the pressure required to produce a
particular
> torque figure in a particular engine as I recall.
> It is not the compression figure that you get on a comperssion
gauge which by
> the way should relly only be used for comparative purposes
because it can
> change dramatically with things like engine temperature,
cranking speed,
> throttle plate position etc.
> Hope that helps. I'm sure that someone out there has the actual
definition of
> BMEP.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> Bruce Starke wrote:
>
> > At the risk of appearing stupid, what is the BMEP mentioned in
the manual?
> > Is this the compression. I ask because I have just got my
newly
> > reconditioned MK2 tricarb engine back from the rebuilders and
found the
> > compression to be 145 to 155lbs/in". Is this the correct
amount?
> > Thanks for your advice
> > BRUCE STARKE
> > BT7 tricarb
> > BJ7
>
>



From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:14:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Hi Guys...this is Dave writing from my work email. I am not 100% sure on
this point. As an arc forms in a normal atmosphere, it ionizes the air.
During the time the arc is happening, this ionized air actually does become
a resistor. I believe that the resistance per unit length of the arc will be
pretty much the same for a given medium. But I do believe that the shorter
the arc length (gap), the lower the overall resistance. So I think the
current will be slightly higher thus the temp will rise a bit. 

What I don't know is what that resistance value is. I think it's time to get
a physicist in on this. once we get past resistance, voltage, and current,
this is out of my realm. If this difference in arc resistance is minimal,
then the increase in temp will be minimal also.

As to the response about the usefulness of a bigger gap...and how that
effects the flame propagation, I don't know the answer. But think of it this
way...if I have a field of dry grass that I want to burn. If I take a single
match and light it at the center, it will take a given amount of time for
the entire field to be up in flames. If I get three buddies and the four of
us light the grass at the same time, but we're standing a certain distance
apart, that field will be fully engulfed in lass amount of time. So if the
spark is longer, it distributes the initial flame across a wider area. So it
stands to reason that the flame should be able to propagate throughout the
cylinder quicker. Does it matter....I have no clue. Now we need an engineer,
a physicist, and an automotive engineer.

God this is going to get heavy. If you guys feel that this veers too far of
course for the list just say so and I'll shut up!

Dave

BJ8
TR4A

        David R. Masucci
        Senior RF Engineer

        PinPoint Corporation 
        One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
        phone: (978) 901-0028   ext: 363  
        fax: (978) 901-0050
        email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com

        http://www.pinpointco.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 9:30 AM
To: David; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>The higher the current, the hotter that spark will
> be.

David, so for any given spark voltage, as the gap (ie resistance)
is reduced the spark gets hotter? Then its always going to be a
trade off between the length of the arc versus its thickness (ie
intensity) and maybe its temperature.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug




From "Masucci, Dave" <dmasucci at pinpointco.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:33:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

BTW guys, IMHO none of this really means much in our old Healey motors. As
long as we get a good quality spark there are many other more significant
things that effect power. I write this stuff for the sake of conversation
and knowledge mostly. 

It's interesting stuff more than anything else. In a race engine where you
are squeezing the thing for every last drop of power, then I think this all
becomes more significant.

Dave



        David R. Masucci
        Senior RF Engineer

        PinPoint Corporation 
        One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
        phone: (978) 901-0028   ext: 363  
        fax: (978) 901-0050
        email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com

        http://www.pinpointco.com



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Lupynec
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 9:37 AM
To: Bill Katz; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap



Steve, it may be that the flame front propagates with time
squared, ie geometric in its volumetric expansion rate.
Hypothetically, if you start the ignition process with two
molecules instead of one, you might finish the burn twice as fast.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: October 11, 2000 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>
> I won't argue the point Steve, since I have no hard data to back
it up, but
> to me the idea that a bigger spark gives better combustion seems
like snake
> oil. It's basically saying that the spark can ignite other, non
burning
> portions of the fuel/air mixture, that also happen to be close
enough to
> the electrodes, faster than the flame propagation speed can get
to them.
>
> bk
> -----------------------------
> At 03:43 PM 10/10/00 , you wrote:
>
> >Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it
was stated
> >that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider
gap.  A wider
> >gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better
combustion.
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >HBJ8L/36666
> >Havelock, NC  USA
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> >To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> ><healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> >Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Neil
> > >
> > >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas
SportsCoil for
> >many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any
problems at
> >all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to
.030, given the
> >way a gapwrench works)
> > >
> > >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and
coil output
> >either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> > >
> > >DickB
> > >
> > >
> > > ---- you wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my
plugs 3 times to
> >30,
> > >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I
found it ran
> > >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple
of widening
> >the
> > >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter
what the gap is
> > >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will
be
> >degraded....? I
> > >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening
the gap...?
> >Also,
> > >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such
a wide gap
> >(gets
> > >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> > >>
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> > >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> > >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> >
> > >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it
shorted out) and
> > >> gapped my
> > >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001"
per 1000
> >volts.
> > >> The car
> > >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have
used .035 and
> > >> ..030,
> > >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> > >> >
> > >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of
a sudden
> > >> developed a bad
> > >> > > starting problem.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and
now suspect
> >its
> > >> 1961
> > >> > > original coil.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to
.030" of an inch
> > >> istead of
> > >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of
25,000
> > >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Thx in advance
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>



From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:36:44 -0700
Subject: RE: Re. Goodbye

Here's a thought.  

Anyone interested in discussing firestone tires send an e-mail directly to
Dick B. and create your own little group.  Leave the rest of us out of it.  

Anyone interested in a personal jab at a particular person send the personal
jab directly to them.  We don't want to hear it.  Leave the rest of us out
of it.

Anyone interested in non-Healey related items start with a subject such as
"NHR. Thoughts on firestone tires?  reply off list".  Again, create your own
group to discuss things that are important to YOU.  Leave the rest of us out
of it.

Nobody on the list is always interested in every topic that comes up.  While
there are some issues that are not Healey related that we may be interested
in discussing, the primary reason for the list is to discuss Healeys.  In my
mind, one message suggesting a non-Healey topic is acceptable, an endless
barrage of follow up messages and the insults that seem to result, is not.

I have subscribed for a couple of months now and often wonder if it was the
right choice.  There are people that I enjoy hearing from and others that I
delete immediately.  Let's try to behave ourselves and discuss things as if
we were talking face to face.  

Jonathan Lane
'60 BN7
'71 MGB-GT
'66 MGB


-----Original Message-----
From: Lhbook1@aol.com [mailto:Lhbook1@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 3:58 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re. Goodbye



DickB

I would like to add my voice to those who feel that off-topic postings have 
little use on an Austin Healey list.  I also believe the tone of your
remarks 
to Mr. Rogers was not necessary or warranted and sadly brings down the level

of this list.  The Healey list is where I choose to go to learn about the 
marque I enjoy - and that is all I want.  We live in a culture that bombards

us with information of every description on a daily basis.  Please allow
some 
of us a small heaven where we may relax with one of our simple pleasures.

Michael Aikey
Albany, NY
BJ8

From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:43:00 -0700
Subject: RE: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

Actually I think we need a bartender too.  Yeesh!  My head hurts!

:7)

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: Masucci, Dave [mailto:dmasucci@pinpointco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 7:14 AM
To: 'Michael Lupynec'; 'David'; 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap



Hi Guys...this is Dave writing from my work email. I am not 100% sure on
this point. As an arc forms in a normal atmosphere, it ionizes the air.
During the time the arc is happening, this ionized air actually does become
a resistor. I believe that the resistance per unit length of the arc will be
pretty much the same for a given medium. But I do believe that the shorter
the arc length (gap), the lower the overall resistance. So I think the
current will be slightly higher thus the temp will rise a bit. 

What I don't know is what that resistance value is. I think it's time to get
a physicist in on this. once we get past resistance, voltage, and current,
this is out of my realm. If this difference in arc resistance is minimal,
then the increase in temp will be minimal also.

As to the response about the usefulness of a bigger gap...and how that
effects the flame propagation, I don't know the answer. But think of it this
way...if I have a field of dry grass that I want to burn. If I take a single
match and light it at the center, it will take a given amount of time for
the entire field to be up in flames. If I get three buddies and the four of
us light the grass at the same time, but we're standing a certain distance
apart, that field will be fully engulfed in lass amount of time. So if the
spark is longer, it distributes the initial flame across a wider area. So it
stands to reason that the flame should be able to propagate throughout the
cylinder quicker. Does it matter....I have no clue. Now we need an engineer,
a physicist, and an automotive engineer.

God this is going to get heavy. If you guys feel that this veers too far of
course for the list just say so and I'll shut up!

Dave

BJ8
TR4A

        David R. Masucci
        Senior RF Engineer

        PinPoint Corporation 
        One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
        phone: (978) 901-0028   ext: 363  
        fax: (978) 901-0050
        email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com

        http://www.pinpointco.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Lupynec [mailto:mlupynec@globalserve.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 9:30 AM
To: David; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap


>The higher the current, the hotter that spark will
> be.

David, so for any given spark voltage, as the gap (ie resistance)
is reduced the spark gets hotter? Then its always going to be a
trade off between the length of the arc versus its thickness (ie
intensity) and maybe its temperature.

Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug



From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:56:30 -0600
Subject: BMEP

Thanks for all the info. Despite the bickering (which I just DELETE), this
is a great list.
BRUCE STARKE


From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 11:05:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Nailing that healey color finally

For as much discussion as ther seems to be about correct colors on
Healey's, anyone who is that serious about originality should look
into the book published by Donald Pikovnik last year entitled
Austin-Healey Guide to Historic Colors.
This book contains modern samples of virtually all colors used on all
the Healey models produced by BMC and even extends into British
Leyland colors for the later Sprites. (many of the colors are also
applicable to MG models over the same production period)
There are even variations on some of the colors like Pale Primrose and
Old English White to account for batch changes over time.
Anyone interested can inquire through Coloramic Process Inc.
Austinburg, Oh.
440-275-1199. The book is about $25. I've found it very useful.
Sam
----- Original Message -----
From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 11:01 PM
Subject: Nailing that healey color finally


>
> I am working on BU.2 , getting the correct ( as close as humanly
poss. , I
> know oxidation, heat, time, ect.) but have a really nice specimen to
work
> with.
>
>  The healey blue must have a very fine metallic content. I have not
seen the
> BMW color but if its super close would be interested. will get a
sample
> mixed up.
>
> Is this a base/clear ? only interested in single stage.
> BTW watch clearcoats they will haze from over washing and waxing ,
most
> clears are very soft and will go thru after repeated buffing.
>
> Will keep you posted on what Ifind if anyone interested. There were
many
> scans on this color .I had one done on my sample and it was way too
blue.
> Now I have to work hands on with my paint jobber till its perfect.
Metallic
> content was perf. needs to be gray/greener.
>
> Carroll
>
>


____________NetZero Free Internet Access and Email_________
Download Now     http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
Request a CDROM  1-800-333-3633
___________________________________________________________

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 11:30:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Nailing that healey color finally

In a message dated 10/11/2000 10:08:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
samncyna@netzero.net writes:

<< Donald Pikovnik last year entitled
 Austin-Healey Guide to Historic Colors. >>

THANKS, Sam.  I have been WAITING for someone to bring the book up.  I kept 
forgetting to bring mine in from shop so I could post info.

It is Great !!

Cheers..............

           Ed

From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:30:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

I'll buy into the premise Mike, but would love to know if the reality is 
the same. The unknown is the speed of propagation. If it's fast enough (my 
opinion only), then the fact you hit one million molecules with the spark 
instead of two million will be moot. So who knows the flame rates in a 
cylinder?

bk
-----------------------
At 06:36 AM 10/11/00 , you wrote:
>Steve, it may be that the flame front propagates with time
>squared, ie geometric in its volumetric expansion rate.
>Hypothetically, if you start the ignition process with two
>molecules instead of one, you might finish the burn twice as fast.
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: October 11, 2000 2:48 AM
>Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
>
> >
> > I won't argue the point Steve, since I have no hard data to back
>it up, but
> > to me the idea that a bigger spark gives better combustion seems
>like snake
> > oil. It's basically saying that the spark can ignite other, non
>burning
> > portions of the fuel/air mixture, that also happen to be close
>enough to
> > the electrodes, faster than the flame propagation speed can get
>to them.
> >
> > bk
> > -----------------------------
> > At 03:43 PM 10/10/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it
>was stated
> > >that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider
>gap.  A wider
> > >gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better
>combustion.
> > >
> > >Steve Byers
> > >HBJ8L/36666
> > >Havelock, NC  USA
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > >To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> > ><healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> > >Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >Neil
> > > >
> > > >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas
>SportsCoil for
> > >many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any
>problems at
> > >all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to
>.030, given the
> > >way a gapwrench works)
> > > >
> > > >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and
>coil output
> > >either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> > > >
> > > >DickB
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my
>plugs 3 times to
> > >30,
> > > >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I
>found it ran
> > > >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple
>of widening
> > >the
> > > >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter
>what the gap is
> > > >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will
>be
> > >degraded....? I
> > > >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening
>the gap...?
> > >Also,
> > > >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such
>a wide gap
> > >(gets
> > > >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> > > >>
> > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> > > >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> > > >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> > > >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> >
> > > >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it
>shorted out) and
> > > >> gapped my
> > > >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001"
>per 1000
> > >volts.
> > > >> The car
> > > >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have
>used .035 and
> > > >> ..030,
> > > >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> > > >> >
> > > >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of
>a sudden
> > > >> developed a bad
> > > >> > > starting problem.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and
>now suspect
> > >its
> > > >> 1961
> > > >> > > original coil.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to
>.030" of an inch
> > > >> istead of
> > > >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of
>25,000
> > > >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > Thx in advance
> > > >> >
> > > >> >
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>


From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:54:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Paint samples

Better yet, use a tintable surfacer under the color coat.   For example,
PPG's K36 can be tinted with the same color as the urethane top coat, that
is, the toners are the same.

Certainly helps to hide chipping caused by gravel later in life.

Adnan

-----Original Message-----
From: MOWOGMAN@aol.com [mailto:MOWOGMAN@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 7:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Paint samples

Another hint to add to the already good advice:   Yes, do spray samples on 
plates to get an idea of how the color will look.  And, always use the same 
primer underneath the paint you intend to use on the car.  Sometimes, the 
primer will add some elements to the final shade that you didn't expect.  
There are red, light gray, dark gray, black, gray/green, and more primers
out 
there.   Your paint guy can often point you in the right direction as to
what 
is normally used under certain colors.

John    
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!) 
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.

From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:37:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap

I agree Dave, but it's a nice diversion from the tire wars!

Anyway, here's a link to a site with some data as related to a motorcycle. 
He states flame speed is 35-50cm/sec.

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/rt-fuel1.html

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/rt-fuel2.html


bk
--------------------------
At 07:33 AM 10/11/00 , you wrote:

>BTW guys, IMHO none of this really means much in our old Healey motors. As
>long as we get a good quality spark there are many other more significant
>things that effect power. I write this stuff for the sake of conversation
>and knowledge mostly.
>
>It's interesting stuff more than anything else. In a race engine where you
>are squeezing the thing for every last drop of power, then I think this all
>becomes more significant.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>         David R. Masucci
>         Senior RF Engineer
>
>         PinPoint Corporation
>         One Fortune Drive - Billerica, MA 01821
>         phone: (978) 901-0028   ext: 363
>         fax: (978) 901-0050
>         email: dave.masucci@pinpointco.com
>
>         http://www.pinpointco.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Lupynec
>Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 9:37 AM
>To: Bill Katz; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
>
>
>Steve, it may be that the flame front propagates with time
>squared, ie geometric in its volumetric expansion rate.
>Hypothetically, if you start the ignition process with two
>molecules instead of one, you might finish the burn twice as fast.
>
>Mike L.
>60A,67E,59Bug
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: October 11, 2000 2:48 AM
>Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
>
>
> >
> > I won't argue the point Steve, since I have no hard data to back
>it up, but
> > to me the idea that a bigger spark gives better combustion seems
>like snake
> > oil. It's basically saying that the spark can ignite other, non
>burning
> > portions of the fuel/air mixture, that also happen to be close
>enough to
> > the electrodes, faster than the flame propagation speed can get
>to them.
> >
> > bk
> > -----------------------------
> > At 03:43 PM 10/10/00 , you wrote:
> >
> > >Not sure, but I think the last time this thread came around it
>was stated
> > >that a higher voltage coil can push the spark across a wider
>gap.  A wider
> > >gap provides a fatter (longer?) spark, which provides better
>combustion.
> > >
> > >Steve Byers
> > >HBJ8L/36666
> > >Havelock, NC  USA
> > >
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: dickb@cheerful.com <dickb@cheerful.com>
> > >To: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>; austin healey list
> > ><healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Date: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:38 AM
> > >Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >Neil
> > > >
> > > >I also have a BT7 Tri-carb and have been running a Lucas
>SportsCoil for
> > >many years with the plugs gapped at .025 and haven't had any
>problems at
> > >all.  (I also suspect that my ".025" is probably closer to
>.030, given the
> > >way a gapwrench works)
> > > >
> > > >I don't get the point about the relationship between gap and
>coil output
> > >either and I wish one of our engineers would elucidate.
> > > >
> > > >DickB
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---- you wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> I use a Lucas Sport coil in my BT7 and have regapped my
>plugs 3 times to
> > >30,
> > > >> 35 and 40 and have gone back to factory each time because I
>found it ran
> > > >> better at 25-27. I'm afraid I don't understand the princple
>of widening
> > >the
> > > >> gap, a 40,000 volt spark is a 40,000 volt spark no matter
>what the gap is
> > > >> yes, no? If you go to far the intensity of the spark will
>be
> > >degraded....? I
> > > >> thought the ignition timing would be altered by widening
>the gap...?
> > >Also,
> > > >> is it detrimental to the coil life to be running it at such
>a wide gap
> > >(gets
> > > >> hot and fails)? Any thoughts...Neil
> > > >>
> > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >> From: "Joseph Elmer" <Joelmer@worldnet.att.net>
> > > >> To: <njones@amadeus.net>
> > > >> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > >> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 7:14 AM
> > > >> Subject: Re: Lucas Sports coil and readjusting the plug gap
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> >
> > > >> > I had a 40,000 volt Petronix coil in my BN1 (until it
>shorted out) and
> > > >> gapped my
> > > >> > plugs at .040", following the old rule of thumb of .001"
>per 1000
> > >volts.
> > > >> The car
> > > >> > ran great while the coil lasted.  Others o the list have
>used .035 and
> > > >> ..030,
> > > >> > apparently with success.  Joe Elmer.
> > > >> >
> > > >> > njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> > > >> >
> > > >> > > Am I about to fit a Lucas Sports coil as my car all of
>a sudden
> > > >> developed a bad
> > > >> > > starting problem.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > It starts eventually,luckily I had a strong battery and
>now suspect
> > >its
> > > >> 1961
> > > >> > > original coil.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > I read somewhere that you should regap the plugs to
>.030" of an inch
> > > >> istead of
> > > >> > > .025",otherwise it sparks at the lower voltage of
>25,000
> > > >> > > instead of the new 40,000 volts.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > Is this correct ,can anyone help.
> > > >> > >
> > > >> > > Thx in advance
> > > >> >
> > > >> >
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>


From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 12:55:54 -0400
Subject: Create your own list!

For those of you who are interested in creating your list to discuss 
non-Healey related topics, please visit the following link:

http://www.egroups.com/.

This way you will have a better chance of finding like-minded people 
to chat about whatever and the rest of us can stick to Healeys.

Herman

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 13:03:01 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Re. Goodbye


In a message dated 10/10/00 5:03:24 PM, John.Pagel@imotors.com writes:

<< What does LBC stand for?   >>

Little British Car
alt. - Lovely British Car

From Kit Henry <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 13:27:11 -0400
Subject: LBC


<< What does LBC stand for?   >>

Little British Car
alt. - Lovely British Car

Oh come on, it stands for Leaking British Car !
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net



From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:53:56 -0700
Subject: RE: LBC

        I guess I got my answer.      Thanks for all the replies; you
wouldn't believe all the possible permutations For LBC 

John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Kit Henry [mailto:khenry@hmcltd.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 10:27 AM
To: Austin Healey's
Subject: LBC


<< What does LBC stand for?   >>

Little British Car
alt. - Lovely British Car

Oh come on, it stands for Leaking British Car !
--
Kit Henry
Henry MotorSports Inc.
419-483-5064
http://www.henrymotorsports.com
E-Mail: khenry@hmcltd.net

From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 14:00:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Last goodbye

Oh yeah, I almost forgot....There hasn't been a proper pissing contest on the 
list for most of 2000; so I guess the list was long over due for one.

If you've been on the list for any substantial period of time, then you've seen 
this type of activity before.  It's nothing new - I imagine every now and again 
the Healey List has to air itself out in the form of some good old bitching.

For all of the good and bad, I feel the list is very valuable.  A prime source 
of networking and camaraderie.  It&#8217;s probably one of the only places left 
where you can still get honest answers to puzzling questions without having to 
run your beloved vehicle down to the local "know-it-all" British mechanic and 
pay through the nose for his (or her) academic opinion.

To the agitators - "pull your pants up and play nice boys"
To the moan & groaners - "get over it. that's what the delete button is there 
for"


From Doug Miller <doug at amouse.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:59:20 -0700
Subject: Re: BMEP

Couldn't resist the chance to come out of retirement!  The definition of
BMEP according to the "Automobile Engineer's Reference Book" (published
in England in 1956) is:
BMEP= Brake HorsepowerX33,000/(Stroke-ftXPiston Area-sq. in.XNumber of
Working Cycles/min)
Mick L.- I believe the procedure you described will yeild IMEP(Indicated
Mean Effective Pressure) which is BMEP/Mechanical Efficiency.
Doug Miller


From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:12:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Alex, - and all others,

far better than that.....you should go to http://www.ahspares.co.uk/ , go to
their Big Healey catalogue and click on the Accessories section in the left hand
frame. In the centre you will get a picture of all three badge bars that they
manufacture. Prices are about GBP 30 (USD 45)

For anyone who doesn't know what one of these is it's a bar  about a quarter
inch diameter in chromed steel, which runs roughly the width of the rad and
about three inches or so above the bumper (sorry, Brit-speak!). They used to
hold badges such as the Austin Healey Club badge, motoring organisation
membership badges and .. if you were very lucky (and eligible) BARC, BRDC etc.
Jag drivers were pretty prone to using them.

While not absolutely "works" they do allow you to use more than two auxiliary
lights should you need/want to without drilling the whole shop to pieces. For
the period look check out any of Browning's pictures (The Works Big Healeys) of
the 100/6s or early 3000s running in rallies like the Alpine.Check out p67 for
Pat Moss and URX 727 on the 60 Tulip, or Don Morley on the German Rally in 1960
for three lights.

On the subject of the fog lamp mounts.

GOOD NEWS I checked this morning with Cape International. They do sell them and
have been overwhelmed by demand, so they have redesigned them. They are GBP80
(about USD 120) + shipping.  AND THEY NOW FIT BN1 and BN2 too!

Yours,

Peter Dzwig

Alex Hope wrote:

> Any chance of posting (on line) a scan of the article ?
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
> BN1
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Peter Dzwig [SMTP:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 5:32 AM
> > To:   healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject:      Re: Question about attaching fog lamps
> >
> >
> > John/Jim/Richard,
> >
> > That's OK for the later cars, say post 61. For earlier cars such as
> > 100/6s which
> > ran pretty much as road spec, or if you are looking for the appearance
> > that a car
> > might have had on one of those rallies on which you weren't allowed to
> > strip most
> > things off (e.g. The Alpine), then a badge-bar of the sort much loved
> > by British
> > drivers in the late 50s and early sixties works well. They are
> > available from AH
> > Spares among others.
> >
> > Peter Dzwig
> >
> > John Trifari wrote:
> >
> > > Jim/Richard--check the April96 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine.  We
> > did an
> > > article by Hiroshi Takemori of the Japan AHC on a set of brackets
> > that mount
> > > where the front in the holes for the front bumper supports.
> > Hiroshi included
> > > a detailed 3-vu drawing of teh bracket with dimensions.  The late
> > Bill Austill
> > > welded up a set of these for the BN1.  Regards,  John Trifari   1955
> > BN1/1965
> > > BJ8
> > >
> > > "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Jim,
> > > >
> > > > The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame
> > in
> > > > replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe
> > that Cape
> > > > International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best
> > regards.  rjh
> > > > >
> > > > >How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do
> > you use
> > > > the
> > > > >brackets that supported the bumper ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Jim L.
> > > > >56 BN2
> > > > >
> >
> >
> >




From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:12:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Alex, - and all others,

far better than that.....you should go to http://www.ahspares.co.uk/ , go to
their Big Healey catalogue and click on the Accessories section in the left hand
frame. In the centre you will get a picture of all three badge bars that they
manufacture. Prices are about GBP 30 (USD 45)

For anyone who doesn't know what one of these is it's a bar  about a quarter
inch diameter in chromed steel, which runs roughly the width of the rad and
about three inches or so above the bumper (sorry, Brit-speak!). They used to
hold badges such as the Austin Healey Club badge, motoring organisation
membership badges and .. if you were very lucky (and eligible) BARC, BRDC etc.
Jag drivers were pretty prone to using them.

While not absolutely "works" they do allow you to use more than two auxiliary
lights should you need/want to without drilling the whole shop to pieces. For
the period look check out any of Browning's pictures (The Works Big Healeys) of
the 100/6s or early 3000s running in rallies like the Alpine.Check out p67 for
Pat Moss and URX 727 on the 60 Tulip, or Don Morley on the German Rally in 1960
for three lights.

On the subject of the fog lamp mounts.

GOOD NEWS I checked this morning with Cape International. They do sell them and
have been overwhelmed by demand, so they have redesigned them. They are GBP80
(about USD 120) + shipping.  AND THEY NOW FIT BN1 and BN2 too!

Yours,

Peter Dzwig

Alex Hope wrote:

> Any chance of posting (on line) a scan of the article ?
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
> BN1
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Peter Dzwig [SMTP:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 5:32 AM
> > To:   healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject:      Re: Question about attaching fog lamps
> >
> >
> > John/Jim/Richard,
> >
> > That's OK for the later cars, say post 61. For earlier cars such as
> > 100/6s which
> > ran pretty much as road spec, or if you are looking for the appearance
> > that a car
> > might have had on one of those rallies on which you weren't allowed to
> > strip most
> > things off (e.g. The Alpine), then a badge-bar of the sort much loved
> > by British
> > drivers in the late 50s and early sixties works well. They are
> > available from AH
> > Spares among others.
> >
> > Peter Dzwig
> >
> > John Trifari wrote:
> >
> > > Jim/Richard--check the April96 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine.  We
> > did an
> > > article by Hiroshi Takemori of the Japan AHC on a set of brackets
> > that mount
> > > where the front in the holes for the front bumper supports.
> > Hiroshi included
> > > a detailed 3-vu drawing of teh bracket with dimensions.  The late
> > Bill Austill
> > > welded up a set of these for the BN1.  Regards,  John Trifari   1955
> > BN1/1965
> > > BJ8
> > >
> > > "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Jim,
> > > >
> > > > The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame
> > in
> > > > replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe
> > that Cape
> > > > International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best
> > regards.  rjh
> > > > >
> > > > >How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do
> > you use
> > > > the
> > > > >brackets that supported the bumper ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Jim L.
> > > > >56 BN2
> > > > >
> >
> >
> >




From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:20:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps (bar mounts)

While the original question was in regards to mounting lamps on a car with 
out bumpers, the badge bar is an option for cars with bumpers.

To see 7" lucas fog lamps on a lamp/badge bar My 100 SIx has that setup: 
members.aol.com/wilko

Rick

In a message dated 10/11/00 1:12:45 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:

<< 
Alex, - and all others,

far better than that.....you should go to http://www.ahspares.co.uk/ , go to
their Big Healey catalogue and click on the Accessories section in the left 
hand
frame. In the centre you will get a picture of all three badge bars that they
manufacture. Prices are about GBP 30 (USD 45) >>


From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 17:27:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Goodbye

I was responding to an email sent to The Whole List - therefore I responded in 
kind.

If someone want to write me privately, I'll respond privately.


 ---- you wrote: 
> I must say that I agree.  Dick, your last responce should have been off the 
> list.  We are all growing tired of all this tire talk.  Please stop.
> 
> Tim
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:26:45 -0500
Subject: Re: hello/goodbuy/hello/ goodby................

Sounds like an AUTOCROSS!!!!!!!!!!!!
(Gymkhana for you OFs)!!!!
                                                           HoYo

>
>  ".   This two-seat 100-Six you covet will be more than forty years old when 
>you get it and if you aren't concerned about it being safe to drive you should 
>confine your driving to empty parking lots and soccer fields - certainly not 
>on the public highways where tens of thousands of innocent people will be 
>accompanying you."
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >


From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 17:35:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Goodbye

On the contrary, I consider constantly offering your ignorant and irrelevant 
trash-talking to the entire List to be the height of rudeness.

You do have a Delete key don't you?  And I don't know about you but when I hit 
Reply I have to make an additional entry to send my reply to the whole List.

I'm sorry you consider the Firestone story to be "endless" - it sure is to the 
hundreds of dead folks.


 ---- you wrote: 
> Dick, rudeness is your specialty, so why don't you take your
> endless Firestone story and shove it somewhere else.
> 
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59ug
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
> To: Tim Rogers <thr@stny.rr.com>; austin healey list
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: October 10, 2000 5:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Goodbye
> 
> 
> >
> > Mr. Rogers
> >
> > If your idea of a "tiresome, off-topic" subject is Firestone
> Tires,  you may be doomed to restricting your driving to your VW.
> This two-seat 100-Six you covet will be more than forty years old
> when you get it and if you aren't concerned about it being safe to
> drive you should confine your driving to empty parking lots and
> soccer fields - certainly not on the public highways where tens of
> thousands of innocent people will be accompanying you.
> >
> > There have now been Five Days of Hearings in the House of
> Representatives and the Senate; Bills are pending in both
> chambers; and the NTSB has added about a dozen more Firestone
> models and sizes to its Investigation; NTSB has also added several
> other manufacturers to Firestone.
> >
> > Most of the people on this List own several cars, including an
> SUV or a Pickup in many, many cases.
> >
> > If you don't think automotive safety and defective tires are
> proper subjects for a List about cars you should be staying in Mr
> Roger's Neighborhood and not lurking and listening to serious
> people.
> >
> > DickB
> >
> >
> >  ---- you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > > To: <gregbankin@primus.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:40 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Goodbye
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > . " Why is it that a handfull are compelled to chime in
> > > > on
> > > > > virtually every topic that comes up (often several times
> on the same
> > > > topic)
> > > > > even when they have nothing of substance to add?  I'd
> guess that many of
> > > > the
> > > > > silent members don't comment or offer advise because they
> don't want to
> > > > get
> > > > > flamed by the few that dominate the discussions."
> > > > >
> > > > > Ray G
> > > > > Colorado
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > To the group:
> > >
> > > I'm one of those silent members who haven't, up to now, posted
> anything on
> > > this list. My interest is with Austin Healeys (not yet an
> owner). I do a lot
> > > of deleting - Firestone tires, etc. This issue of tiresome,
> off topic
> > > threads coming from a small number of subscribers is something
> that I've
> > > seen on other lists and newsgroups. There really is no good
> solution!
> > > Individuals who post a lot while at the same time contributing
> very little
> > > become a burden to the rest of the group. 'Tongue in cheek
> barbs' rarely
> > > come across very well in an impersonal forum like this list.
> Trying too hard
> > > to be an 'expert on all subjects' or a comedian are not
> uncommon forms of
> > > attention seeking for those who need it.  Ideally, these
> inevitable problems
> > > would not become overwhelming or intolerable for the majority.
> So what am I
> > > suggesting? Keep 'deleting' when necessary, keep reading what
> interests you
> > > (Austin Healeys?) and don't encourage the 'attention seeking
> behavior' of
> > > those few who would disrupt the life of the group. BTW, I'm
> not very 'thin
> > > skinned' so flames are OK, but please feel free to send them
> privately if
> > > you don't think that the rest of the group would benefit from
> seeing me get
> > > my comeuppance.
> > >
> > > Tim Rogers - - - ' 70 type1 VW, would like to someday have a
> 100-SIX (two
> > > seater?)
> > > thr@stny.rr.com
> > >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 17:15:05 -0500
Subject: Manual

I met a fellow recently, and he said he had at least one original Healey
manual that belonged to his father. Besides E-bay, who should he contact
to determine a value?

Thanks.

Lynn BT7


From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 18:54:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Make sure you check the shipping charges.  AH Spares has great prices but by the
time I add on shippage to the US, I'm back to a US dealer.

Peter Dzwig wrote:

> Alex, - and all others,
>
> far better than that.....you should go to http://www.ahspares.co.uk/ , go to
> their Big Healey catalogue and click on the Accessories section in the left 
>hand
> frame. In the centre you will get a picture of all three badge bars that they
> manufacture. Prices are about GBP 30 (USD 45)
>
> For anyone who doesn't know what one of these is it's a bar  about a quarter
> inch diameter in chromed steel, which runs roughly the width of the rad and
> about three inches or so above the bumper (sorry, Brit-speak!). They used to
> hold badges such as the Austin Healey Club badge, motoring organisation
> membership badges and .. if you were very lucky (and eligible) BARC, BRDC etc.
> Jag drivers were pretty prone to using them.
>
> While not absolutely "works" they do allow you to use more than two auxiliary
> lights should you need/want to without drilling the whole shop to pieces. For
> the period look check out any of Browning's pictures (The Works Big Healeys) 
>of
> the 100/6s or early 3000s running in rallies like the Alpine.Check out p67 for
> Pat Moss and URX 727 on the 60 Tulip, or Don Morley on the German Rally in 
>1960
> for three lights.
>
> On the subject of the fog lamp mounts.
>
> GOOD NEWS I checked this morning with Cape International. They do sell them 
>and
> have been overwhelmed by demand, so they have redesigned them. They are GBP80
> (about USD 120) + shipping.  AND THEY NOW FIT BN1 and BN2 too!
>
> Yours,
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Alex Hope wrote:
>
> > Any chance of posting (on line) a scan of the article ?
> >
> > Alex Hope
> > Australia
> > BN1
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Peter Dzwig [SMTP:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 5:32 AM
> > > To:   healeys@autox.team.net
> > > Subject:      Re: Question about attaching fog lamps
> > >
> > >
> > > John/Jim/Richard,
> > >
> > > That's OK for the later cars, say post 61. For earlier cars such as
> > > 100/6s which
> > > ran pretty much as road spec, or if you are looking for the appearance
> > > that a car
> > > might have had on one of those rallies on which you weren't allowed to
> > > strip most
> > > things off (e.g. The Alpine), then a badge-bar of the sort much loved
> > > by British
> > > drivers in the late 50s and early sixties works well. They are
> > > available from AH
> > > Spares among others.
> > >
> > > Peter Dzwig
> > >
> > > John Trifari wrote:
> > >
> > > > Jim/Richard--check the April96 issue of Austin-Healey Magazine.  We
> > > did an
> > > > article by Hiroshi Takemori of the Japan AHC on a set of brackets
> > > that mount
> > > > where the front in the holes for the front bumper supports.
> > > Hiroshi included
> > > > a detailed 3-vu drawing of teh bracket with dimensions.  The late
> > > Bill Austill
> > > > welded up a set of these for the BN1.  Regards,  John Trifari   1955
> > > BN1/1965
> > > > BJ8
> > > >
> > > > "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Jim,
> > > > >
> > > > > The rallye cars used a modified bracket that bolts onto the frame
> > > in
> > > > > replacement of the bumper brackets.  I made my own but I believe
> > > that Cape
> > > > > International sells a reproduction of the originals.  Best
> > > regards.  rjh
> > > > > >
> > > > > >How do you attach fog lamps on a BN2 with the bumper removed ? Do
> > > you use
> > > > > the
> > > > > >brackets that supported the bumper ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Jim L.
> > > > > >56 BN2
> > > > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >


From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 19:13:28 -0400
Subject: nailing that healey color 

Sam,

Thanks for the info, was looking to get the book awhile ago. For the price
it seems well worth it. However I believe the paint formulas and numbers
are for the modern ICI system.Myself and a few others that go back and forth
on these colors use the ppg system which renders the others useless. I do
this for a living and am very happy with ppg's system. Or should I say I am
use to the system. It can get very expensive real quick to start buying all
the components for different brands ,  especially with their short shelf
lives.

Thanks again,   Carroll


From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 19:21:22 EDT
Subject: Re: nailing that healey color 

In a message dated 10/11/2000 6:16:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bjcap@frontiernet.net writes:

<< Myself and a few others that go back and forth
 on these colors use the ppg system which renders the others useless >>

Huuuum, Carroll, I've used the "Library" several times ?!?!?

Cheers............

          Ed

From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 23:15:42 +0100
Subject: Help locate a Healey

Dear All,

I am trying putting together the history of one of the works Big Healeys, PMO
203 [chassis BN6-1138 Engine 26D/R62823H (originally)]. Its history up until it
was sold by the works was well known. I have been able to put together its
history from then until mid 1963 when it was PX'd for DD 300 (yes, really).
After that we don't actually know where it went.

The question is: does anyone out there know where it went to? There is a fair
chance that it was exported and if so it would almost certainly have gone to
Australia, Canada or the US.

A BN6, it was rallied across Europe by many of the BMC regulars including Pat
Moss, Gerry Burgess and Jack Sears. For the latter part of 1959 it was upgraded
to 3000 Mk 1 spec (ie if it has its works engine in today it would be 29D....)
probably as a way of obtaining a "3000" quickly and easily and gaining rally
experience with the new cars. It then rallied to the end of 59 before being sold
on. After that it was used on a variety of rallies such as the Circuit of
Ireland (where it took 1st in class after Pat Moss retired), the Acropolis and
so on.

If anyone knows of its whereabouts please let me know - off-line if you prefer.

To re-assure anyone who needs it: I am not interested in purchasing it PMO 203,
nor is there anything surreptitious about this. I am simply interested in
discovering what happened to a wonderful old Healey with a very long and
honourable history. And that I am sure is something that everyone on this list
can appreciate.

Thanks,

Peter Dzwig

From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:41:55 -0400
Subject: 1940's grill badge

I have a great chrome grill badge from the 1940's from New Zealand for
sale. If interested please contact me off line. Price is $50.00 +
shipping

Cheers, Dyaarl

From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 19:50:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Help locate a Healey


In a message dated 10/11/00 4:41:30 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:

<< 
Dear All,

I am trying putting together the history of one of the works Big Healeys, PMO
203 [chassis BN6-1138 Engine 26D/R62823H (originally)]. Its history up until 
it
was sold by the works was well known. I have been able to put together its
history from then until mid 1963 when it was PX'd for DD 300 (yes, really).
After that we don't actually know where it went.

The question is: does anyone out there know where it went to? There is a fair
chance that it was exported and if so it would almost certainly have gone to
Australia, Canada or the US.

A BN6, it was rallied across Europe by many of the BMC regulars including Pat
Moss, Gerry Burgess and Jack Sears. For the latter part of 1959 it was 
upgraded
to 3000 Mk 1 spec (ie if it has its works engine in today it would be 29D....)
probably as a way of obtaining a "3000" quickly and easily and gaining rally
experience with the new cars. It then rallied to the end of 59 before being 
sold
on. After that it was used on a variety of rallies such as the Circuit of
Ireland (where it took 1st in class after Pat Moss retired), the Acropolis and
so on.

If anyone knows of its whereabouts please let me know - off-line if you 
prefer.

To re-assure anyone who needs it: I am not interested in purchasing it PMO 
203,
nor is there anything surreptitious about this. I am simply interested in
discovering what happened to a wonderful old Healey with a very long and
honourable history. And that I am sure is something that everyone on this list
can appreciate.

Thanks,

Peter Dzwig
 >>

That car has a long history indeed. (add: 1961 Le Mans). It is plastered all 
over books and posters as owned and well campaigned by John Chatham up 
through at least the mid nineties (?).
I had heard rumours that it had been sold..

anyone?

Rick
San Diego

From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:14:52 EDT
Subject: roll bar

Can anyone out there recommend a good source for a bolt in roll bar for a 
1967 BJ8 driver that does not run interference with the convert. top?   
Thanks .  Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J. 


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:29:10 EDT
Subject: Castrol R

Had a call from one of our readers today, who was inquiring if I knew where 
(if)
Castrol R could still be purchased (in North America, that is)?  Aside from 
hearing folks wax rhapsodic about the memories of going to races in ze olt 
dayz, as BS would say, and smelling the burnt castor oil, I don't know much 
about it.  Any current info, anyone?
Thanks and cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA 

From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:33:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

Lance,

No, I'm not mounting the tag to the front. I have been running a single rear 
tag for about 6 years. I haven't been stopped by the police yet. 

Jim L.
56 BN2

From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:48:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Castrol R

Gary,
Moss still sells it for about $9 a quart, so castrol must still make it.  I bet 
a good Castrol distributor could get it for much le$$.  Make sure to flush 
thoroughly the old oil out of the engine or you will have a clumpy mess.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
1985 Yamaha IT490 burning castor oil

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:53:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Question about attaching fog lamps

In a message dated 10/11/2000 7:36:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
JXLmail@aol.com writes:

<< I haven't been stopped by the police yet. >>

Huuuum, KEY phrase, huh??  In IL it's "only" $75 unless you can prove your 
case.

Cheers.............

           Ed

PS:  'Course that's only Time and Money.

From howard young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:41:05 -0500
Subject: Re: roll bar

Not sure but you might try "Kirk's" in Alabama.........if i could get in my
office i'd give you ph. # and
address.......................................................HoYo
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:

> Can anyone out there recommend a good source for a bolt in roll bar for a
> 1967 BJ8 driver that does not run interference with the convert. top?
> Thanks .  Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.


From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 14:28:00 +1100
Subject: Re: Castrol R

Hi Gary

 A couple of years back we had a rep from Castrol come along to our club
meeting and raved on about their new synthetic oils. In an act of
larrikinism
I got up and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R. The answer was yes but
it
no longer contains castor oil. The smell of the modern stuff is artificial
and
no where near as aromatic.

I find the aroma of burnt castor oil quite addictive and not only add it
neat
to the BN3's fuel tank but even to my ride-on lawn mower. I buy it in small
plastic bottles in my local pharmacy.

I can't recall if I read it in DMH's book or he mentioned it personally but
he
said that when he was flying in WW1 it used to make him ill. Castor oil was
used in the majority of WW1 aero engines in total loss systems. The only
problem with this was that the pilots had to inhale the stuff. Now a little
is
quite wonderful but a lot has an extreme laxative effect. 

The good thing about Castor Oil or the Castrol R product was that it
maintained its viscosity at high heat and was therefore just perfect for
racing engines, however it did have a short life, before it had to be
replaced. In the days before modern lubricants it was therefore very popular
in the racing cars of the between the wars period. That's why most historic
folks who run such cars these days always add a little to the petrol. Their
excuse is that it lubricates the superchargers, which it does.

Buy some and you will know what I mean. Just don't drink the stuff unless
you
want to have a need to use the toilet a lot.

Regards

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 

>>> Editorgary@aol.com 12/10/00 11:29:10 >>>

Had a call from one of our readers today, who was inquiring if I knew where 
(if)
Castrol R could still be purchased (in North America, that is)?  Aside from 
hearing folks wax rhapsodic about the memories of going to races in ze olt 
dayz, as BS would say, and smelling the burnt castor oil, I don't know much 
about it.  Any current info, anyone?
Thanks and cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 23:53:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Last goodbye

Halleluha brother. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KingPinion@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Last goodbye


>
> Oh yeah, I almost forgot....There hasn't been a proper pissing contest on
the list for most of 2000; so I guess the list was long over due for one.
>
> If you've been on the list for any substantial period of time, then you've
seen this type of activity before.  It's nothing new - I imagine every now
and again the Healey List has to air itself out in the form of some good old
bitching.
>
> For all of the good and bad, I feel the list is very valuable.  A prime
source of networking and camaraderie.  It&#8217;s probably one of the only
places left where you can still get honest answers to puzzling questions
without having to run your beloved vehicle down to the local "know-it-all"
British mechanic and pay through the nose for his (or her) academic opinion.
>
> To the agitators - "pull your pants up and play nice boys"
> To the moan & groaners - "get over it. that's what the delete button is
there for"
>
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 23:57:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Create your own list!

You can also start your own All Healey List. Simply advise members, if you
get any, that non Healey content will not be tolerated and transgressors
will be excepted from the list. Goood luck. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herman Farrer" <herman@hfphoto.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 10:55 AM
Subject: Create your own list!


>
> For those of you who are interested in creating your list to discuss
> non-Healey related topics, please visit the following link:
>
> http://www.egroups.com/.
>
> This way you will have a better chance of finding like-minded people
> to chat about whatever and the rest of us can stick to Healeys.
>
> Herman
>


From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 23:59:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Goodbye

My sentiments exactly. Motor on. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: <Healybj8@aol.com>; "austin healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Goodbye


>
> I was responding to an email sent to The Whole List - therefore I
responded in kind.
>
> If someone want to write me privately, I'll respond privately.
>
>
>  ---- you wrote:
> > I must say that I agree.  Dick, your last responce should have been off
the
> > list.  We are all growing tired of all this tire talk.  Please stop.
> >
> > Tim
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>


From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 01:36:16 -0500
Subject: Castrol R


In response to Gary Anderson's inquiry regarding Castrol R, Patrick Quinn,
wrote:

> A couple of years back we had a rep from 
> Castrol come along to our club meeting 
> and raved on about their new synthetic 
> oils. In an act of larrikinism I got up 
> and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R. 
> The answer was yes but it no longer 
> contains castor oil. The smell of the 
> modern stuff is artificial and no where 
> near as aromatic. 

The US Castrol folks may produce a "faux" Castrol R, but I found no
reference to Castrol R on their web site other than a historical note.

It's my understanding that Moss US was selling Castrol R, but I've not dealt
with them so I don't know what it is or who makes it.

However, genuine castor-based Castrol R racing oil is available from various
sources in the UK. I purchased a small stock of it (about three oil changes
worth), but have yet to use it in my vintage race car because, as someone
else pointed out, it requires a complete flushing of the oil system to
change from synthetic or petroleum based oils (or vice-versa).

Castrol R is manufactured (per the data on the containers I have) by
"Castrol Limited Swindon England" and is described as "the original
castor-based SAE 40 engine oil".

It is NOT cheap . . . but for those who remember racing in the 50's and
60's, there's nothing quite like it.

Jim Hill
SpyderWeb Vintage Racing
Madison WI

 the "Good Stuff" from

From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:16:58 +0100
Subject: 

I received the same message from MJB as you all did, I suppose.
Can someone tell me what the Digest is please?
Simon.

From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 06:30:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Castrol R

For those interested in reproducing the Castrol R effect add one tablespoon of
Castor Oil, usually available at the drug store, to one tank of gas.
Guaranteed to whisk you back to the mid fifties....
-
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
Jim Hill wrote:

> In response to Gary Anderson's inquiry regarding Castrol R, Patrick Quinn,
> wrote:
>
> > A couple of years back we had a rep from
> > Castrol come along to our club meeting
> > and raved on about their new synthetic
> > oils. In an act of larrikinism I got up
> > and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R.
> > The answer was yes but it no longer
> > contains castor oil. The smell of the
> > modern stuff is artificial and no where
> > near as aromatic.
>
> The US Castrol folks may produce a "faux" Castrol R, but I found no
> reference to Castrol R on their web site other than a historical note.
>
> It's my understanding that Moss US was selling Castrol R, but I've not dealt
> with them so I don't know what it is or who makes it.
>
> However, genuine castor-based Castrol R racing oil is available from various
> sources in the UK. I purchased a small stock of it (about three oil changes
> worth), but have yet to use it in my vintage race car because, as someone
> else pointed out, it requires a complete flushing of the oil system to
> change from synthetic or petroleum based oils (or vice-versa).
>
> Castrol R is manufactured (per the data on the containers I have) by
> "Castrol Limited Swindon England" and is described as "the original
> castor-based SAE 40 engine oil".
>
> It is NOT cheap . . . but for those who remember racing in the 50's and
> 60's, there's nothing quite like it.
>
> Jim Hill
> SpyderWeb Vintage Racing
> Madison WI
>
>  the "Good Stuff" from





From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:20:54 -0600
Subject: Red-Line

Hi folks,

Posed this question to a friend the other day and got the answer I expected.
Not second guessing his judgement, I thought for grins I'd ask the list.
What is a reasonable red-line to use on a big Healey motor?  In my case, my
engine has been balanced.  It also has a different cam and lightened
flywheel now and just loves to rev.  Curious.........

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8


From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:39:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Marcus Chambers' 90th Birthhday

Reid:   Well done !!!! You make all of us on the list proud  ... A great change
of pace.  EDS

Reid Trummel wrote:

> I thought many listers might find this interesting; please let me know
> (perhaps privately).  This will appear as one part of my regular column in
> the November Austin-Healey Magazine:
> ---------------
> Marcus Chambers
>
> The name Marcus Chambers will be familiar to many of you if you have done
> any reading on the competition history of the marque.  If you haven’t I can
> only encourage it.  The Austin-Healey has a fascinating and distinguished
> competition history, and if you’re like many others it will only enhance
> your pleasure and pride in owning one of these historic sports cars if you
> appreciate some of its history.  (See list of books available from the club
> in the Austin-Healey Resource Book; the books are available through club
> Vice-President Jerry Wall).
>
> One of the men responsible for much of the marque’s fine competition history
> is Marcus Chambers, Manager of the British Motor Corporation’s Competition
> Department.  Marcus recently passed a milestone in the form of his ninetieth
> birthday, and I took the occasion to write to him on the club’s behalf.  I’d
> like to share both my letter and his response with all of you.
>
> Marcus Chambers
> Oxon
> United Kingdom
>
> Dear Mr. Chambers,
>
> On behalf of the 2200+ members of the Austin-Healey Club USA, please accept
> my congratulations and best wishes on the occasion of your upcoming 90th
> birthday.
>
> Please also permit me to take this opportunity to thank you for your pivotal
> role in establishing the place in history of the marque Austin-Healey.
> Without your efforts and those of your Competitions Department, there can be
> little doubt that the Austin-Healey would not be as highly regarded and as
> highly sought-after as it is today.
>
> The achievements that you orchestrated stand as inspiring occasions that
> remain warmly remembered and venerated, and we who still preserve and enjoy
> these great automobiles thank you for all of your many contributions.
>
> With kindest regards,
> Reid Trummel
> President, Austin-Healey Club USA
>
> ------------
>
> Reid Trummel
> Austin-Healey Club USA
> San Jose, California
>
> Dear Mr. Trummel,
>
> Thank you for your kind letter.  I have waited until things have returned to
> normal, before telling you that I actually reached my 90th in good order!
>
> In passing, I think that I should just say that I was very lucky to be in
> the right place at the right time.  I had returned to England, with my wife,
> after nearly six years of "Empire Building."  That consisted of working for
> government schemes which were founded with the idea of leaving a colony in a
> better state than it had been before the war, or helping to produce food or
> materials which would help things.  We felt that the time had come to return
> to my old love, motor sport, where most of my friends were enjoying
> themselves.
>
> That period had helped me to sharpen up my management skills.  I was
> selected to join the British Motor Corporation at a time when motor sport
> management in the U.K. needed to become more professional, and dare I say
> it, a little ruthless, if we were to compete with the continentals.
>
> I was also able to find some drivers, who as amateurs, had performed
> brilliantly in some of the great European rallies, and who were of a
> different calibre to the others.  My efforts in that direction were ably
> assisted, firstly by John Gott, and later by John Sprinzel and Willy Cave.
> On the Technical side we had tremendous help from my old friend, Geoffrey
> Healey, and as time went on we were able to train drivers such as Pat Moss
> and Ann Wisdom by letting them drive in minor events in less competitive but
> reliable vehicles.  Of course the secret of the dedicated mechanics that
> formed my department, was that John Thornley knew every employee at MG, and
> picked out the very best for me.
>
> Then the moment arrived when we had the Big Healeys and the drivers who
> could handle them and who were soon asking for more and more power.  You
> know the rest.
>
> Please convey my thanks for your kind thoughts on the occasion of my 90th to
> your members.
>
> Yours very sincerely,
> Marcus Chambers
> ---------------
>
> I hope that this was an interesting change of pace from the usual tech stuff
> on the list, and I'd be happy to post these little diversions from time to
> time.  Please let me know if you enjoy this sort of thing on the list or
> would rather stick to tech, restoration, parts and service sources, problem
> diagnosis, etc.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> BN2
> BN2
> AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html





From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 06:51:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Castrol R

We actually sell it here at Moss.

R30 215-910 l liter  $12.85
R40 215-920 1 liter  $12.85
R40 215-930 5 liter  $49.95

It's not compatible with petrolium based oils, (doesn't play well with
others) so it is really only good for freshly rebuilt engines.  

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 5:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Castrol R



Had a call from one of our readers today, who was inquiring if I knew where 
(if)
Castrol R could still be purchased (in North America, that is)?  Aside from 
hearing folks wax rhapsodic about the memories of going to races in ze olt 
dayz, as BS would say, and smelling the burnt castor oil, I don't know much 
about it.  Any current info, anyone?
Thanks and cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA 

From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 06:54:05 -0700
Subject: RE: roll bar

Try Autopower.  I don't have a number but I know Pegasus racing is a
distributor.  800-688-6946.

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: howard young [mailto:hoyo@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 6:41 PM
To: Rebeltown@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: roll bar



Not sure but you might try "Kirk's" in Alabama.........if i could get in my
office i'd give you ph. # and
address.......................................................HoYo
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:

> Can anyone out there recommend a good source for a bolt in roll bar for a
> 1967 BJ8 driver that does not run interference with the convert. top?
> Thanks .  Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.

From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:26:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Red-Line


>What is a reasonable red-line to use on a big Healey motor?  
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
> 
Rev it till it breaks, then don't rev it that high anymore.

My redline is 7000 for short periods, 6500 for extended periods.  My engine
is balanced blueprinted, lightened everywhere with full race cam.

Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:42:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Red-Line

On a similar thought, what is a good RPM for cruising?  My MGB will go all
day at 3500 but I'm a little bit new and unsure about the huge six cylinder
thing.

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard J. Hockert, Esq. [mailto:rjh.co@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 7:26 AM
To: James Sailer; Healey List
Subject: Re: Red-Line




>What is a reasonable red-line to use on a big Healey motor?  
>
>Jim Sailer
>66 BJ8
> 
Rev it till it breaks, then don't rev it that high anymore.

My redline is 7000 for short periods, 6500 for extended periods.  My engine
is balanced blueprinted, lightened everywhere with full race cam.

Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX

From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:46:25 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: Question about attaching fog lamps


Anybody know the penalty in Californy, for having no front plate? - JohnC



From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:08:58 -0700
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Question about attaching fog lamps

I've managed to get away with it for many years with the MGB.  The only time
I got a ticket for it was when I got a parking ticket.  In addition to the
over 90 minutes, they hit me up for the no front plate.  It's pretty much a
fix it ticket, cost you ten bucks.  If you pay the fine I think it was like
$30.  Not a huge deal.  

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us [mailto:jclose@sduhsd.k12.ca.us]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 10:46 AM
To: JustBrits@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re[2]: Question about attaching fog lamps




Anybody know the penalty in Californy, for having no front plate? - JohnC


From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:37:59 -0700
Subject: BJ8 hardtop wanted

I am interested in purchasing an aftermarket BJ8 hardtop, suitable for use
with the convertible top in place. 

Ken Freese
65 BJ8

From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:41:05 -0700
Subject: RE: roll bar

Kirk is at (205) 823-6025

Subject: Re: roll bar



Not sure but you might try "Kirk's" in Alabama.........if i could get in my
office i'd give you ph. # and
address.......................................................HoYo
Rebeltown@aol.com wrote:

> Can anyone out there recommend a good source for a bolt in roll bar for a
> 1967 BJ8 driver that does not run interference with the convert. top?
> Thanks .  Gary S. 67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:27:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Castrol R

This question is for Patrick Quinn (whose email address I lost in my Trash)

Having now read "In an act of larrikinism ..." twice 

I am forced to ask for a definition and an etymology, if you don't mind Patrick.

Thanks

DickB


 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> 
> In response to Gary Anderson's inquiry regarding Castrol R, Patrick Quinn,
> wrote:
> 
> > A couple of years back we had a rep from 
> > Castrol come along to our club meeting 
> > and raved on about their new synthetic 
> > oils. In an act of larrikinism I got up 
> > and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R. 
> > The answer was yes but it no longer 
> > contains castor oil. The smell of the 
> > modern stuff is artificial and no where 
> > near as aromatic. 
> 
> The US Castrol folks may produce a "faux" Castrol R, but I found no
> reference to Castrol R on their web site other than a historical note.
> 
> It's my understanding that Moss US was selling Castrol R, but I've not dealt
> with them so I don't know what it is or who makes it.
> 
> However, genuine castor-based Castrol R racing oil is available from various
> sources in the UK. I purchased a small stock of it (about three oil changes
> worth), but have yet to use it in my vintage race car because, as someone
> else pointed out, it requires a complete flushing of the oil system to
> change from synthetic or petroleum based oils (or vice-versa).
> 
> Castrol R is manufactured (per the data on the containers I have) by
> "Castrol Limited Swindon England" and is described as "the original
> castor-based SAE 40 engine oil".
> 
> It is NOT cheap . . . but for those who remember racing in the 50's and
> 60's, there's nothing quite like it.
> 
> Jim Hill
> SpyderWeb Vintage Racing
> Madison WI
> 
>  the "Good Stuff" from
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:25:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Castrol R

Guys,

I hope this is relevent .. but I used to race motorbikes and we were 
pretty much all using Castrol Synthetic R ... (silver 4 or 5 Litre 
container with a big red R)  a new formula without castor. A great 
oil but very expensive in Australia .. I haven't seen it at all here 
in California. I asked a few bike shops but they didn't know about it 
.. seems Castrol isn't as big here.

Rohan.
BN4

At 2:28 PM +1100 10/12/00, Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>Hi Gary
>
>  A couple of years back we had a rep from Castrol come along to our club
>meeting and raved on about their new synthetic oils. In an act of
>larrikinism
>I got up and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R. The answer was yes but
>it
>no longer contains castor oil. The smell of the modern stuff is artificial
>and
>no where near as aromatic.
>
>I find the aroma of burnt castor oil quite addictive and not only add it
>neat
>to the BN3's fuel tank but even to my ride-on lawn mower. I buy it in small
>plastic bottles in my local pharmacy.
>
>I can't recall if I read it in DMH's book or he mentioned it personally but
>he
>said that when he was flying in WW1 it used to make him ill. Castor oil was
>used in the majority of WW1 aero engines in total loss systems. The only
>problem with this was that the pilots had to inhale the stuff. Now a little
>is
>quite wonderful but a lot has an extreme laxative effect.
>
>The good thing about Castor Oil or the Castrol R product was that it
>maintained its viscosity at high heat and was therefore just perfect for
>racing engines, however it did have a short life, before it had to be
>replaced. In the days before modern lubricants it was therefore very popular
>in the racing cars of the between the wars period. That's why most historic
>folks who run such cars these days always add a little to the petrol. Their
>excuse is that it lubricates the superchargers, which it does.
>
>Buy some and you will know what I mean. Just don't drink the stuff unless
>you
>want to have a need to use the toilet a lot.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
>>>>  Editorgary@aol.com 12/10/00 11:29:10 >>>
>
>Had a call from one of our readers today, who was inquiring if I knew where
>(if)
>Castrol R could still be purchased (in North America, that is)?  Aside from
>hearing folks wax rhapsodic about the memories of going to races in ze olt
>dayz, as BS would say, and smelling the burnt castor oil, I don't know much
>about it.  Any current info, anyone?
>Thanks and cheers
>Gary Anderson
>Editor, British Car Magazine
>Los Altos, CA


From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:38:21 EDT
Subject: Speedometer repair shop

Is there such a place in southwest US?

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 10:47:14 -0600
Subject: Need a detective

Guys,
 Any one of you in Virginia interested in doing some phoning to your DMV for
me?
Please reply off list. TIA to all responders.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:51:36 -0700
Subject: RE: Speedometer repair shop

Try Mo-Ma in New Mexico @ 505-766-6661
or West Valley instruments in Van Nuys @ 818-758-9500

Good luck!

Jonathan Lane

-----Original Message-----
From: BillHUCK@aol.com [mailto:BillHUCK@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 9:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Speedometer repair shop



Is there such a place in southwest US?

From ed driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:11:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Castrol R

"larrikin" is a young street rowdy or hooligan

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon


dickb@cheerful.com wrote:

> This question is for Patrick Quinn (whose email address I lost in my Trash)
>
> Having now read "In an act of larrikinism ..." twice
>
> I am forced to ask for a definition and an etymology, if you don't mind 
>Patrick.
>
> Thanks
>
> DickB
>
>  ---- you wrote:
> >
> >
> > In response to Gary Anderson's inquiry regarding Castrol R, Patrick Quinn,
> > wrote:
> >
> > > A couple of years back we had a rep from
> > > Castrol come along to our club meeting
> > > and raved on about their new synthetic
> > > oils. In an act of larrikinism I got up
> > > and asked if Castrol still made Castrol R.
> > > The answer was yes but it no longer
> > > contains castor oil. The smell of the
> > > modern stuff is artificial and no where
> > > near as aromatic.
> >
> > The US Castrol folks may produce a "faux" Castrol R, but I found no
> > reference to Castrol R on their web site other than a historical note.
> >
> > It's my understanding that Moss US was selling Castrol R, but I've not dealt
> > with them so I don't know what it is or who makes it.
> >
> > However, genuine castor-based Castrol R racing oil is available from various
> > sources in the UK. I purchased a small stock of it (about three oil changes
> > worth), but have yet to use it in my vintage race car because, as someone
> > else pointed out, it requires a complete flushing of the oil system to
> > change from synthetic or petroleum based oils (or vice-versa).
> >
> > Castrol R is manufactured (per the data on the containers I have) by
> > "Castrol Limited Swindon England" and is described as "the original
> > castor-based SAE 40 engine oil".
> >
> > It is NOT cheap . . . but for those who remember racing in the 50's and
> > 60's, there's nothing quite like it.
> >
> > Jim Hill
> > SpyderWeb Vintage Racing
> > Madison WI
> >
> >  the "Good Stuff" from
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------


From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 20:05:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Help locate a Healey

Just to re-iterate to Rick waht I said to him off-line. DD300 was certainly in
JC's hands as of a few weeks ago.

DD300 is one of those cars that the whole Healey community feels proud of.

Anyone ant more thoughts about PMO 203, though?

Peter

WilKo@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 10/11/00 4:41:30 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
>
>  I have been able to put together its
> history from then until mid 1963 when it was PX'd for DD 300 (yes, really).
> After that we don't actually know where it went.
>
>
> That car has a long history indeed. (add: 1961 Le Mans). It is plastered all
> over books and posters as owned and well campaigned by John Chatham up
> through at least the mid nineties (?).
> I had heard rumours that it had been sold..
>
> anyone?
>
> Rick
> San Diego

--
_________________________________________________________________________________________

Peter Dzwig,
Summaventures Ltd., 54 London Road, Guildford, GU1 2AL

Visiting Professor, Department of Computer Science, Kings College, The Strand,
London WC2R 2LS

Honorary Senior Research Fellow, Department of Computer Science, Queen Mary and
Westfield College, Mile End Road London E1 4NS

Te: +44 01483 561625 Fax: +44 01483 561625

email: pdzwig@summaventures.com
_________________________________________________________________________________________




From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 20:30:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Castrol R



Jim Hill wrote:

> The US Castrol folks may produce a "faux" Castrol R, but I found no
> reference to Castrol R on their web site other than a historical note.
>
> It's my understanding that Moss US was selling Castrol R, but I've not dealt
> with them so I don't know what it is or who makes it.
>

Jim,

I see what you mean....try http://www.castrol.com/...there are contact details
there.

Peter

PS It does still smell right and R for historics is all that you would expect!


From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:28:29 -0700
Subject: works Healeys & expanded oil pans

I have read that most of the Works racing Healeys had expanded oil pans.
Why did they need that much oil capacity?
My car has an expanded oil pan also.  It looks like a professional job of
welding but it takes 15 quarts of oil to fill it up.

Jerry
BN4


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 16:15:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer repair shop

Hi, Bill -
I think you have in mind

Mo-Ma 
1321 Second St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
(505) 766-6661


Steve Byers
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: BillHUCK@aol.com <BillHUCK@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 1:20 PM
Subject: Speedometer repair shop


>
>Is there such a place in southwest US?
>


From "Jim D" <donato1 at netusa1.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 16:25:35 -0500
Subject: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

From: "Jim D" <donato1@netusa1.net
Subject: aluminum flywheels now on sale
Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 4:20 PM

To all,
We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british
makes
and now they are all on sale for the season.till Dec 31,2000
These are some of the specs, Most all are made with 6061-T6 alum,CNC
machined for accuracy, spc heat-treated high alloy fricton surface
that is replaceable, all grade 10 bolts or rivits. most come complete
with ring gear.  call for more details
SALE PRICES AS OF 11/16/00
TR 2,3,3a ------------------------$ 318.00  no ring gear
TR 4,4a-------------------------- $ 318.00  no ring gear
TR 6------------------------------$ 318.00  ring gear included
Spifire 1500---------------------- $ 309.00  ring gear included
Spitfire 1296----------------------$ 309.00  ring gear included
MG-B  late -----------------------$ 315.00  ring gear included
MG-B  early----------------------$  329.00  ring gear included
MG-B  66-68 small dia ----------$   329.00  ring gear included
MG-A ---------------------------$   329.00  ring gear included
Spridget 1275, 948---------------$   302.00  ring gear included
Jaguar moslty all call on model requested, also Ford,Chevy,
Lotus,Honda,
Mazda,Mitsu,Nissan,Porsche,Saab,Saturn,Toyota,BMW,Chrysler,Eagle
For any questions please call,  Master Card, Discover, Visa  ok
Donato and Sons Motors
Performance Engineering
1600 W Market st
Logansport, In 46947
219-753-0434
1-800-886-5337
fax 219-753-4115
Jim D






From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:59:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Help locate a Healey

Ken,

Sorry, this has caused some confusion so I am copying this to the group.....

PX = Part Exchanged; PMO 203 was traded in at Peter Riley's garage (who had
driven DD 300, then registered as UJB 143 at Le Mans in 1960) in part exchange
for DD300. I don't know what happened to PMO 203 after that; unless anyone on
the list can help.

Peter Dzwig

"Freese, Ken" wrote:

> Peter,
> What does PX'd mean?
> Ken Freese
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Dzwig [mailto:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 12:05 PM
> To: WilKo@aol.com
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Help locate a Healey
>
> Just to re-iterate to Rick waht I said to him off-line. DD300 was certainly
> in
> JC's hands as of a few weeks ago.
>
> DD300 is one of those cars that the whole Healey community feels proud of.
>
> Anyone ant more thoughts about PMO 203, though?
>
> Peter
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 10/11/00 4:41:30 PM, pdzwig@summaventures.com writes:
> >
> >  I have been able to put together its
> > history from then until mid 1963 when it was PX'd for DD 300 (yes,
> really).
> > After that we don't actually know where it went.
> >
> >
> > That car has a long history indeed. (add: 1961 Le Mans). It is plastered
> all
> > over books and posters as owned and well campaigned by John Chatham up
> > through at least the mid nineties (?).
> > I had heard rumours that it had been sold..
> >
> > anyone?
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
>
> --
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> _____________
>
> Peter Dzwig,
> Summaventures Ltd., 54 London Road, Guildford, GU1 2AL
>
> Visiting Professor, Department of Computer Science, Kings College, The
> Strand,
> London WC2R 2LS
>
> Honorary Senior Research Fellow, Department of Computer Science, Queen Mary
> and
> Westfield College, Mile End Road London E1 4NS
>
> Te: +44 01483 561625 Fax: +44 01483 561625
>
> email: pdzwig@summaventures.com
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> _____________


From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:11:11 +0100
Subject: Re: works Healeys & expanded oil pans

Jerry,

I don't know about the racing works cars - if by that you mean circuit racers,
but the rally cars certainly did.

According to Peter Browning's book "The Works Big Healeys" they ran with a 3
gallon capacity sump - and I guess a massive guard too! Why? Cooling. Don't
forget these guys were driving for maybe two thousand plus miles flat-out up
roads that were often little more than dirt tracks up the side of some of the
roughest mountains in Europe. And doing that - in the case of the Liege ( the
Marathon de la Route) for four days and four nights and covering three thousand
miles without rest in the full heat of summer, which say would reach Southern
Californian temperatures.

Those guys were/are heroes

Peter Dzwig

Peter Dzwig

Jerry Costanzo wrote:

> I have read that most of the Works racing Healeys had expanded oil pans.
> Why did they need that much oil capacity?
> My car has an expanded oil pan also.  It looks like a professional job of
> welding but it takes 15 quarts of oil to fill it up.
>
> Jerry
> BN4


From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:07:14 EDT
Subject: Healey Highlights/AH Magazine collection

I have a complete set of issues dating back to the very first issue.  
Included are commemoratives and rare west coast meet programs.  I'm looking 
for bids starting at  $100 US plus shipping.  Any takers?  You may email me 
off line.

Tom Ware
Riverside, CA

From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:36:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

Jim,
I don't see Austin Healey listed anywhere.  Is there one made, and what is 
the price for a 3000 flywheel?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
<< To all,
 We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british
 makes
 and now they are all on sale for the season.till Dec 31,2000
 These are some of the specs, Most all are made with 6061-T6 alum,CNC
 machined for accuracy, spc heat-treated high alloy fricton surface
 that is replaceable, all grade 10 bolts or rivits. most come complete
 with ring gear.  call for more details
 SALE PRICES AS OF 11/16/00
 TR 2,3,3a ------------------------$ 318.00  no ring gear
 TR 4,4a-------------------------- $ 318.00  no ring gear
 TR 6------------------------------$ 318.00  ring gear included
 Spifire 1500---------------------- $ 309.00  ring gear included
 Spitfire 1296----------------------$ 309.00  ring gear included
 MG-B  late -----------------------$ 315.00  ring gear included
 MG-B  early----------------------$  329.00  ring gear included
 MG-B  66-68 small dia ----------$   329.00  ring gear included
 MG-A ---------------------------$   329.00  ring gear included
 Spridget 1275, 948---------------$   302.00  ring gear included
 Jaguar moslty all call on model requested, also Ford,Chevy,
 Lotus,Honda,
 Mazda,Mitsu,Nissan,Porsche,Saab,Saturn,Toyota,BMW,Chrysler,Eagle
 For any questions please call,  Master Card, Discover, Visa  ok
 Donato and Sons Motors
 Performance Engineering
 1600 W Market st
 Logansport, In 46947
 219-753-0434
 1-800-886-5337
 fax 219-753-4115
 Jim D
  >>

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:54:39 -0500
Subject: TEXAS KOOLER FALL SPECIAL

...........and the days dwindled down to a precious few, September, October 15.

All orders postmarked by Oct 15 will be eligible for the free fan reimbursement 
drawing.
Feeling lucky, ducky ?  Estimated odds: 1 in 15 or 20.  Maybe less, maybe more.

Check out the North Texas website at www.ntahc.austin1.com

DISCLAIMER:  if this reminder offends or incenses any of the sensitive ones on 
the list, then FLAME away !!  The Kooler can QUENCH all flames.




From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:55:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Red-Line

hi jonathan-

like many of the points of contention on the list, this is going to a matter of 
individual preference as well as depending on how your healey is set up for the 
road.  my favorite cruising rpm is 3000.  this is 75 mph with a 3.9 rear ratio, 
28% od and 175x15 tires.  i'm on the list for the new lempert produced 3.5 
ratio looking forward to the 2002 run to lake tahoe.

keep it between the lines,

jerry wall
bn6
roads scholar
----- Original Message -----

From: "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej@mossmotors.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Red-Line
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:42:39 -0700

 
On a similar thought, what is a good RPM for cruising?  My MGB will go all 
day at 3500 but I'm a little bit new and unsure about the huge six cylinder 
thing. 
 
Jonathan Lane 
 
 
-----Original Message----- 
From: Richard J. Hockert, Esq. [mailto:rjh.co@worldnet.att.net] 
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 7:26 AM 
To: James Sailer; Healey List 
Subject: Re: Red-Line 
 
 
 
 
>What is a reasonable red-line to use on a big Healey motor?   
> 
>Jim Sailer 
>66 BJ8 
>  
Rev it till it breaks, then don't rev it that high anymore. 
 
My redline is 7000 for short periods, 6500 for extended periods.  My engine 
is balanced blueprinted, lightened everywhere with full race cam. 
 
Jim Hockert 
BJ8 Rallye 
Dallas, TX 




From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 17:17:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer repair shop

Try Palo Alto speedometer at www.paspeedo.com.  they did a great job on the
instruments for my BN7 MK2

----------
> From: BillHUCK@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Speedometer repair shop
> Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 9:38 AM
> 
> 
> Is there such a place in southwest US?

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:03:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

In a message dated 10/12/2000 4:39:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
donato1@netusa1.net writes:

<< We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british >>

Gee, I have had one for over 70K miles ans 12 years?!?!?

Love it when someone (please pardon the pun) "reinvents the wheel" !!

Cheers..............

          Ed

PS:  Yep had Hortense over 7500 RPM and over 140 (indicated) MPH. 
Still "just fine".

From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 20:37:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

IMHO, an all alloy flywheel is too light for either the 100 or 3000.  When
the flywheel weight drops below 15 pounds, you are using the drivetrain as
your flywheel. Very, very difficult to drive in traffic and not all that
smooth on the highway.   Even the works rally cars drew the line at about
15 pounds.  I suspect that an all 6061 flywheel for the AH will weigh in at
9 to 12 pounds with ring gear.

Other opinions????


Best regards

Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX


From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:47:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer repair shop

At 12:38 PM 10/12/2000 -0400, BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:

>Is there such a place in southwest US?

There's Foreign Speedo, Inc. here in San Diego:

         Phone: (619) 298-5278

         2246 1/2 University Ave.
         San Diego, CA  92104

I've personally never had any dealings with them, but they advertise in our 
newsletter and I haven't heard anything but good reports.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Editor, Healey Hearsay (AHC of SD) <http://www.sdhealey.org>
'59 Speedwell Sprite vintage racer, '61 3000 Mk II Tri-carb (BT7)


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:16:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

i normally go into od to get below 8 grand.,
----- Original Message -----

From: JustBrits@aol.com
To: donato1@netusa1.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:03:27 EDT

 
In a message dated 10/12/2000 4:39:59 PM Central Daylight Time,  
donato1@netusa1.net writes: 
 
<< We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british >> 
 
Gee, I have had one for over 70K miles ans 12 years?!?!? 
 
Love it when someone (please pardon the pun) "reinvents the wheel" !! 
 
Cheers.............. 
 
          Ed 
 
PS:  Yep had Hortense over 7500 RPM and over 140 (indicated) MPH.  
Still "just fine". 



From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:21:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels On Sale Now 

So Mark.  Does this person have your permission to post this little missive??

For the un-informed (which most of you are but only because "this rule" does 
not apply to you), businesses are NOT supposed to do this sorta thing.  "IF" 
a business has a "real", heretofore "unavailable" and/or "just plain new 
great product, item, etc., then said business can "ask" Majordomo if an 
announcement may be offered.

I have asked MJB for permission to announce when my site will have "Busty" 
info available would it be OK to "Listize".  He said yes, but I have just not 
gotten around to doing "web work".  BUT, I did ask FIRST.

Guess I could be sorta "annal" in that I actually read "The Rules 
(instruction)".

Cheers...................

           Lister Ed
*****************************************
In a message dated 10/12/2000 4:47:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
donato1@netusa1.net writes:

<< Subj:     Aluminum Flywheels On Sale Now 
 Date:  10/12/2000 4:47:59 PM Central Daylight Time
 From:  donato1@netusa1.net (Jim D)
 Sender:    owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
 Reply-to:  <A HREF="mailto:donato1@netusa1.net";>donato1@netusa1.net</A> (Jim 
D)
 To:    spridgets@autox.team.net (Spridgeteers)
 
 From: "Jim D" <donato1@netusa1.net>
 Subject: aluminum flywheels now on sale
 Date: Thursday, October 12, 2000 4:20 PM
 
 To all,
 We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british
 makes >>

From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:55:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels On Sale Now 

JustBrits@aol.com writes:<<  announce when my site will have "Busty" 
 info available would it be OK >>

My door hinge on the BJ8 developed an annoying squeak. Sorta like fingernails 
on a blackboard. I went to my arsenal of penetrating oils and lubricants and 
tried everything with no luck. Then I used Busty and it instantly went away. 
I have to give credit to Ed, that stuff is good.


Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Note address change from BGAHC@aol.com

From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:39:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------2B5A6939E080E769E02CC021

I had an aluminum flywheel in my vintage race 3000 for several years and that
bloody thing tried to kill me numerous times. First problem was that the
vendor merely "pinned" the ring gear to the flywheel. Worked OK for about 2
races, then I heard all sorts of clattering from inside the bellhousing. Yup,
the pins had come out. Pulled the flywheel and fixed the problem (I thought).
Next thing I notice the engine was barely turing over with the starter - the
problem, the pins had come out again and the starter was cranking the ring
gear around the flywheel! Pulled the dang thing again and using a milling
machine bolted the ring gear to the flywheel - solved that problem. Then
after a few races, there's a horrible vibration and noise - thought for sure
the crank had broken. Turns out that all this on and off of flywheel had
started to slightly wallow out the holes where it fitted onto the crank and
the flywheel was wobbling around. Pulled the flywheel again and milled steel
inserts. Solved that problem (I thought). After a few races the bolt holes
started to wallow out and the flywheel was loose again. Pulled the flywheel,
decied to use it as a doorstop (best decision in 4 years!) and put a Denis
Welch lightened steel flywheel on (it only weighed a couple of pounds more
(<15)) and no problems mate. I wouldn't use an aluminum flywheel on the
Healey engine again.

To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the flywheel to the
middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much is it!

Regards  Fred

Jerry Wall wrote:

> i normally go into od to get below 8 grand.,
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: JustBrits@aol.com
> To: donato1@netusa1.net, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:03:27 EDT
>
>
> In a message dated 10/12/2000 4:39:59 PM Central Daylight Time,
> donato1@netusa1.net writes:
>
> << We now have made the finest aluminum Flywheels for most all british >>
>
> Gee, I have had one for over 70K miles ans 12 years?!?!?
>
> Love it when someone (please pardon the pun) "reinvents the wheel" !!
>
> Cheers..............
>
>           Ed
>
> PS:  Yep had Hortense over 7500 RPM and over 140 (indicated) MPH.
> Still "just fine".

--------------2B5A6939E080E769E02CC021
 name="oldwolf.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for Fred Crowley
Content-Disposition: attachment;
 filename="oldwolf.vcf"

begin:vcard 
n:Crowley;Fred
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing 
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:oldwolf@airmail.net
title:Team Healey Texas
fn:Fred Crowley
end:vcard

--------------2B5A6939E080E769E02CC021--


From "John J. Black" <helejohn at neteze.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:29:47 -0700
Subject: RE: works Healeys & expanded oil pans

Hi Jerry
The extended pans were not just to aid cooling but to help prevent aeration
under hard acceleration and braking. This was also a problem with the MG's,
we have a picture of the upgraded MG pan our web site.
I hope this helps
Regards
John J Black
Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
http://www.waterloo-dtr.com

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 12:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: works Healeys & expanded oil pans



I have read that most of the Works racing Healeys had expanded oil pans.
Why did they need that much oil capacity?
My car has an expanded oil pan also.  It looks like a professional job of
welding but it takes 15 quarts of oil to fill it up.

Jerry
BN4


From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:38:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Bumper Restoration

Question:

If you had the only bumper in existence for you Healey and it not only
needed to be plated but also some straightening, where would you have it
done? Thanks.

Happy Healeying,

Doug

________________________________________________________________

From "Genevieve Judge" <gjudge at uswest.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 07:20:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Bumper Restoration

If I had a bumper made out of unobtainium and it needed just a little
straightening or rather extensive work, I would send it to Paul's Chrome
Plating in Pennsylvania.  They are magicians when it comes to straightening,
rebuilding, and chroming.  Their card states," Custom Show Plating is Our
Only Business".  I've sent them things that I didn't think anyone would even
work on and everything has come back perfect and like new.  Their number is
800-245-8679 or 412-625-3135.  You'll be pleased and astounded.

Genevieve Judge-Emerson

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Douglas W. Flagg
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 6:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Bumper Restoration



Question:

If you had the only bumper in existence for you Healey and it not only
needed to be plated but also some straightening, where would you have it
done? Thanks.

Happy Healeying,

Doug

________________________________________________________________


From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:39:13 -0400
Subject: Re: BMEP

Yes, it's a measure of power conversion efficiency,
and it's changed by air and/or fuel density, air/fuel
mixture, and compression ratio.

HTH,

GM
----- Original Message -----

>
> Reaching way back, if I have any gray cells left
(burn rate with
> vodka is very high) , BMEP is actually the average
pressure in a
> combustion cylinder over the period of one full
revolution (ie the
> compression and exhaust stroke).
>
> In long stroke slow reving steam and natural gas
engines, we used
> to have a pressure pen device that drew the
combustion chamber
> pressure on a graph that was moving with the
connecting rod. The
> result was a wobbly circle on square graph paper.
We would count
> up the little squares inside the circle, do a
linear conversion
> and voilá, BMEP for that engine, at a specific load
and RPM.
> Whether the BMEP changes or how it changes for
different
> conditions, I don't remember.
>
> Mike L.
> 60A,67E,59Bug




From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:56:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Bumper Restoration

As a lifelong resident of north Alabama, I have had much personal experience
with GRAVES Plating.
Their number is always in a picture ad in Hemmings.
They did my windshield uprights for the bn2 as well as lights for my old dodge.
I would not consider sending anything to anyone besides them.
Usual Disclaimers,
tom  bn2      29 dodge

Genevieve Judge wrote:

> If I had a bumper made out of unobtainium and it needed just a little
> straightening or rather extensive work, I would send it to Paul's Chrome
> Plating in Pennsylvania.  They are magicians when it comes to straightening,
> rebuilding, and chroming.  Their card states," Custom Show Plating is Our
> Only Business".  I've sent them things that I didn't think anyone would even
> work on and everything has come back perfect and like new.  Their number is
> 800-245-8679 or 412-625-3135.  You'll be pleased and astounded.
>
> Genevieve Judge-Emerson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Douglas W. Flagg
> Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 6:39 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Bumper Restoration
>
> Question:
>
> If you had the only bumper in existence for you Healey and it not only
> needed to be plated but also some straightening, where would you have it
> done? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
> ________________________________________________________________


From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:09:58 -0700
Subject: Annoying guage questions

Greetings.
The fuel guage on my BJ8 reads empty until I give it a rap it with my
knuckle.  It then happily bounces up to where it's supposed to be. Anyone
have an idea what's happening here and suggest a fix?    My knuckles hurt.
Also, my speedo indicator needle floats a bit, not wild gyrations, just a
little.  Is it time for a rebuild?  Thanks
Randy Harris ('66 BJ8)



From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:43:15 -0500
Subject: address for achives Listquest ?

My computer died and I lost  all the files I had saved , does anyone have
the link address for where the healeys list is archived. I am looking for
a sheetmetal company.

Thanks

Robert


From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:02:19 -0700
Subject: Re: address for achives Listquest ?

At 11:43 AM 10/13/2000 -0500, Robert Barback wrote:
>My computer died and I lost  all the files I had saved , does anyone have
>the link address for where the healeys list is archived. I am looking for
>a sheetmetal company.

Here ya go: <http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys>


From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 13:16:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

> To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the flywheel to
the
> middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much is it!
>
Saw a BN2 clutch and aluminum flywheel try to come through the bellhousing
at Summit Point about eight years ago.  It sure made a mess of the
bellhousing!
Rooint. Not enough left to make a doorstop, but it did manage to prevent the
driver's legs being amputated.   It occurred to me at the time that it would
be a good idea to wrap the unit in Kevlar, maybe held on with steel cable.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Crowley <oldwolf@airmail.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale


>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> --------------2B5A6939E080E769E02CC021
>
> I had an aluminum flywheel in my vintage race 3000 for several years and
that
> bloody thing tried to kill me numerous times. First problem was that the
> vendor merely "pinned" the ring gear to the flywheel. Worked OK for about
2
> races, then I heard all sorts of clattering from inside the bellhousing.
Yup,
> the pins had come out. Pulled the flywheel and fixed the problem (I
thought).
> Next thing I notice the engine was barely turing over with the starter -
the
> problem, the pins had come out again and the starter was cranking the ring
> gear around the flywheel! Pulled the dang thing again and using a milling
> machine bolted the ring gear to the flywheel - solved that problem. Then
> after a few races, there's a horrible vibration and noise - thought for
sure
> the crank had broken. Turns out that all this on and off of flywheel had
> started to slightly wallow out the holes where it fitted onto the crank
and
> the flywheel was wobbling around. Pulled the flywheel again and milled
steel
> inserts. Solved that problem (I thought). After a few races the bolt holes
> started to wallow out and the flywheel was loose again. Pulled the
flywheel,
> decied to use it as a doorstop (best decision in 4 years!) and put a Denis
> Welch lightened steel flywheel on (it only weighed a couple of pounds more
> (<15)) and no problems mate. I wouldn't use an aluminum flywheel on the
> Healey engine again.
>
> To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the flywheel to
the
> middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much is it!
>
> Regards  Fred



From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:20:11 -0700
Subject: RE: am I on right list

Heritage Upholstery and Trim
250 H Street
Blaine, Wa. 98230
360 332-9302
has the right ICI vinyl and offer kits. I wish I could see a picture of a
completed kit.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: John R. Draxler [mailto:jdrax@badger.tds.net]
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 10:02 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: am I on right list



just joined this list to hear about healey resto and maintenance

seems most of the messages do not have anything to do with healeys

anyone restoring a BJ8 out there?

where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
panels


    http://www.tbirdranch.com
John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
        7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
"have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps


From Jon Giles <JGiles at paulreinhartinc.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 12:29:39 -0500
Subject: Speedometer repair shop

I had my speedometer (BJ7) repaired by Nisonger Instrument Sales in NY.  I
had it rush ordered and it cost $140 ($105 + $25).  It was fixed in one day.
Not only did they repair the speedometer they cleaned everything, replaced
the gaskets, and the outer cover was painted.  

Nisonger Instrument Sales
570 Mamaroneck Avenue
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
(914) 381-1952

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: BillHUCK@aol.com [mailto:BillHUCK@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:38 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Speedometer repair shop



Is there such a place in southwest US?

From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:34:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: address for achives Listquest ?


On Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:43:15 -0500, Robert Barback wrote:

|  
|  My computer died and I lost  all the files I had saved , does anyone have
|  the link address for where the healeys list is archived. I am looking for
|  a sheetmetal company.
|  
|  Thanks
|  
|  Robert
|  

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys

http://www.listquest.com/auto/index.html 

Reid Trummel 
Tampa, Florida 
BN2 
BN2 
AN5 "Lucky" 
http://www.healey.org





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From ed driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:44:07 -0500
Subject: Re: am I on right list

Hi Ken

Heritage Upholstery and Trim will send out a sample package of the leather,
vinyl and various carpet materials. Their handout is quite comprehensive in
terms of what they produce but you are right on - you have to visualize the
end product.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8


"Freese, Ken" wrote:

> Heritage Upholstery and Trim
> 250 H Street
> Blaine, Wa. 98230
> 360 332-9302
> has the right ICI vinyl and offer kits. I wish I could see a picture of a
> completed kit.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John R. Draxler [mailto:jdrax@badger.tds.net]
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: am I on right list
>
> just joined this list to hear about healey resto and maintenance
>
> seems most of the messages do not have anything to do with healeys
>
> anyone restoring a BJ8 out there?
>
> where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery and
> panels
>
>     http://www.tbirdranch.com
> John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
>         7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
> 715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
> Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
> "have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps


From ed driver <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 11:49:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Speedometer repair shop

Hi Jon

Nisonger's did mine although the agreement in time was the same it took just
over 8 days in total - not bad considering we're about 2K miles from NY and in
another country. Their work is excellent both the odometer and trip meter are
bang on known mile markers here - even though we've been on the metric system
for years <g>.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8

Jon Giles wrote:

> I had my speedometer (BJ7) repaired by Nisonger Instrument Sales in NY.  I
> had it rush ordered and it cost $140 ($105 + $25).  It was fixed in one day.
> Not only did they repair the speedometer they cleaned everything, replaced
> the gaskets, and the outer cover was painted.
>
> Nisonger Instrument Sales
> 570 Mamaroneck Avenue
> Mamaroneck, NY 10543
> (914) 381-1952
>
> Jon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BillHUCK@aol.com [mailto:BillHUCK@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:38 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Speedometer repair shop
>
> Is there such a place in southwest US?


From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 19:41:10 +0200
Subject: Re: address for achives Listquest ?

Hi Robert,

try:

 http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys

Best Regards

Martin
Germany

From: "Robert Barback" <tippytoo@eatel.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 6:43 PM
Subject: address for achives Listquest ?

>
> My computer died and I lost  all the files I had saved , does anyone
have
> the link address for where the healeys list is archived. I am
looking for
> a sheetmetal company.
>
> Thanks
>
> Robert
>


From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 15:30:07 EDT
Subject: Re: works Healeys & expanded oil pans

Hi Jerry,
    In conversations with Geoff Healey he related that the expanded sump was 
considered necessary to keep the oil pump submerged during high powered 
turns.  It would also add cooling to the engine.
    They made the expanded sumps in the Competition Dept., hence not shown in 
the Austin parts lists.
    UJB141 had one made by Geoff in his Experimental Dept.
    The rally cars had a solid scuff plate bolted to the frame to cover the 
sump.
    Cheers, Bill

From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 23:15:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Annoying guage questions

Coop--Can't help with hand surgery, but suggest you try a new speedo cable and
or a new/repaired angle drive to solve the speedo problems.   John Trifari
1955 BN1/1965 BJ8

Coop1 wrote:

> Greetings.
> The fuel guage on my BJ8 reads empty until I give it a rap it with my
> knuckle.  It then happily bounces up to where it's supposed to be. Anyone
> have an idea what's happening here and suggest a fix?    My knuckles hurt.
> Also, my speedo indicator needle floats a bit, not wild gyrations, just a
> little.  Is it time for a rebuild?  Thanks
> Randy Harris ('66 BJ8)


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 14:57:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Annoying guage questions

Hi, Randy -

My fuel gauge has operated just as you describe since I had it rebuilt
several years ago.  Not enough of an annoyance to me to do anything about
it, so I continue to rap on it.  There is probably a slight mechanical
binding (I think the Brits call it "stiction" -- love that word!) in the
guts or needle of the gauge.

My speedo has just been rebuilt (West Valley Instruments) and installed with
a new cable and a new right angle drive.  What else is left for a rebuild?
It still wavers a bit around 30 mph, but settles out at other speeds.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC







-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 1:02 PM
Subject: Annoying guage questions


>
>Greetings.
>The fuel guage on my BJ8 reads empty until I give it a rap it with my
>knuckle.  It then happily bounces up to where it's supposed to be. Anyone
>have an idea what's happening here and suggest a fix?    My knuckles hurt.
>Also, my speedo indicator needle floats a bit, not wild gyrations, just a
>little.  Is it time for a rebuild?  Thanks
>Randy Harris ('66 BJ8)
>
>
>


From "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)" <gblack at hextrans.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 16:04:23 -0700
Subject: Red Line

When I first built my race engine, I ran up to 6,500 RPM regularly. First
chance I had it apart (after about three years) the cam was thrashed.
According to Elgin Cams, the cause was valve float. Put in heavy duty valve
springs. Now I run 6,500 RPM without cam damage. I was told not to exceed
6,000 RPM with the stock valve springs.

Gary Black
'60 BN7 Race Car


From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:32:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Address 

Thanks to everyone who replied . Robert


From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 16:58:42 -0700
Subject: Re: am I on right list

Give Heritage a call. They will e-mail you a photo of the seats they did
for my BN7 MK2.....Beautiful

John Snyder

----------
> From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
> To: 'John  R. Draxler' <jdrax@badger.tds.net>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: am I on right list
> Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 10:20 AM
> 
> 
> Heritage Upholstery and Trim
> 250 H Street
> Blaine, Wa. 98230
> 360 332-9302
> has the right ICI vinyl and offer kits. I wish I could see a picture of a
> completed kit.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John R. Draxler [mailto:jdrax@badger.tds.net]
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 10:02 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: am I on right list
> 
> 
> 
> just joined this list to hear about healey resto and maintenance
> 
> seems most of the messages do not have anything to do with healeys
> 
> anyone restoring a BJ8 out there?
> 
> where is the best place to purchase interior stuff like all upholstery
and
> panels
> 
> 
>     http://www.tbirdranch.com
> John R. Draxler  (Thunderbird Ranch)
>         7158 Hwy. B,  Pittsville,   WI  54466
> 715-884-6546 (9am to 6pm Central)
> Subscribe to my newsletter at : http://www.tbirdranch.com
> "have a terrific day" and may the Lord guide your footsteps
> 

From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:59:39 -0400
Subject:  Heritage e-mail address

BAS Heritage Upholstery  e-mail is BAS JAG@helix.net

    well worth using     Carroll Phillips


From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:35:45 -0600
Subject: Brake lines?

Would someone care to comment on the various types of brake lines available.
Stainless steel vs. copper/nickel vs. standard steel. Pros and cons.

I am sure this has come up before but I am presently unable to access the
archives at a reasonable speed.(4800bps on a cell phone is painfully slow)

Thankyou
Ross Maylor



From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 00:06:34 -0400
Subject: Shelley, Jack

I own a Mk I BN 7 roadster, serial no H-BN7-L/12405. Which Shelley 
pot jack should I have, the one that replaced the King Dick  starting 
at no. 10610 ( CA259) or the later one, with a reinforced lip  (CA311 
) . Can anyone corroborate with their serial no. as evidence? Also 
what is the correct finish  if any, of the tommy bar that went with 
it, painted red, black, oxide or cadmium?

From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:46:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake lines?

Ross,

I went with SS for anticorrosion reasons (internal) and for aesthetic
reasons.  Am quite happy with them - still as pretty after about 1.5 years
after installation.  Downside is that they are considerably stiffer and
though they came preformed, I still had some tweaking in their shape to get
the fit I wanted.  I am a bit obsessive so their shapes would have probably
been fine for most.   Cost of the set $200 versus $160 for steel.

Set does not include the line to the gauge and the fuel line.  These have
special fittings.  Had a local rubber hose/metal tubing retailer made those
up with the orig fittings.

 If you want name and address let me know, I'll look it up.

Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Ross Maylor <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 10:35 PM
Subject: Brake lines?


>
> Would someone care to comment on the various types of brake lines
available.
> Stainless steel vs. copper/nickel vs. standard steel. Pros and cons.
>
> I am sure this has come up before but I am presently unable to access the
> archives at a reasonable speed.(4800bps on a cell phone is painfully slow)
>
> Thankyou
> Ross Maylor
>
>


From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 09:53:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

Fred,

Went to a friend at a local machine shop and had them lighten my BN7 fly.
He was very concerned about taking too much off the thing for safety
reasons.  He is a former Mini racer.  Reduced it to 23 lbs.  Where does
Welch find the extra 8 lbs?

Keith Pennell
and put a Denis
> Welch lightened steel flywheel on (it only weighed a couple of pounds more
> (<15)) and no problems mate. I wouldn't use an aluminum flywheel on the
> Healey engine again.
>
> To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the flywheel to
the
> middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much is it!
>
> Regards  Fred



From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 07:37:00 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Somebody's Looking For A Hardtop

Found this in rec.autos.antique. Respond to <bonaprt@pacbell.net>, not me:

>From: Laurent Guastalli <bonaprt@pacbell.net>
>Subject: Austin_Healey
>Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 01:18:34 -0700
>Organization: SBC Internet Services
>
>I am looking for a hardtop for my Austin Healey 3000 MKIII BJ8.  I am
>not interested in the (usually) black vinyl imitation aftermarket top (
>easily identified by its angular design).  I am interested in an
>original or copy of the original.
>Anyone having one for sale, contact me at bonaprt@pacbell.net with
>price, condition and location.
>
>Thanks

--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/


From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 11:54:59 -0400
Subject: Re: sidescreen restoration

I am getting a metal stamp made to replicate the mark on the original 
side curtain acrylic panes.
The original mark is very small, and was heat-stamped into the pane. 
This is what I think is written, although I cannot see clearly  some 
of the letters. Any thoughts?

                         R
FLEXIGLAS
ACRYLIC
A34

From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 18:25:18 +0200
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

Hi Keith,

I bought recently an exchange lightended and balanced flywheel from
DW. It weighs 9,05 kg. I took some photos in comparison to a standard
one (13 kg). If you like I can mail them to you. The DWR flywheel is
even modified to accept the later diaphragm clutch pressure plate. BTW
I have a BN 4 and will use it with a 3 liter motor some day (<g>).
Still all in pieces.

Best regards

Martin
Germany

From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

> Fred,
>
> Went to a friend at a local machine shop and had them lighten my BN7
fly.
> He was very concerned about taking too much off the thing for safety
> reasons.  He is a former Mini racer.  Reduced it to 23 lbs.  Where
does
> Welch find the extra 8 lbs?
>
> Keith Pennell
> and put a Denis
> > Welch lightened steel flywheel on (it only weighed a couple of
pounds more
> > (<15)) and no problems mate. I wouldn't use an aluminum flywheel
on the
> > Healey engine again.
> >
> > To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the
flywheel to
> the
> > middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much
is it!
> >
> > Regards  Fred
>
>


From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 13:33:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Annoying guage questions

Hi, Randy
    If you mean it wiggles when driving at constant speed, I can
relate it to two of my recent difficulties.
    1. The Speedo was sticking, so I sent it to Nissonger in NY for
repair. They fixed that very well, however a new problem was now
apparent.
    2. The needle now wiggled at constant speed, so I took out the
speedo cable, lubricated it and reinstalled it, but it was no better.
After driving it about 500 miles, it quit altogether. I pulled the
cable loose from the speedo to check if the cable broke, and it would
not turn at all. I pulled it out and it was fine. I drove around the
block, and the cable did not rotate, indicating a failure "down
below".
    3. Next, I pulled the trans. tunnel off, and found the 90 degree
fitting frozen. The short section of cable inside the fitting was
failed and totally bound up, so I got a new one AND the brass washer
(which was not there when I disassembled it) as shown in the catalogue
(the washer prevents excess axial loading on the short cable, I
guess). Upon installation everything was fine, no wiggle, no sticking.
    Suggest you start by lubing the cable, if that doesn't help, check
the 90 degree fitting on the trans. before attacking the speedo.
Hope this helps,
DON
BJ8    Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 12:09 PM
Subject: Annoying guage questions


>
> Greetings.
> The fuel guage on my BJ8 reads empty until I give it a rap it with
my
> knuckle.  It then happily bounces up to where it's supposed to be.
Anyone
> have an idea what's happening here and suggest a fix?    My knuckles
hurt.
> Also, my speedo indicator needle floats a bit, not wild gyrations,
just a
> little.  Is it time for a rebuild?  Thanks
> Randy Harris ('66 BJ8)
>
>


From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 13:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale

Hi, listers,
    I lost a friend when the flywheel on his drag car broke and the
heavy safety shield around it move over, cut the methanol fuel line
from the electric pump, caught fire and he died about 2 weeks later!
Be careful!!
DON
BJ8        Pandora
----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: Fred Crowley <oldwolf@airmail.net>
Cc: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale


>
> > To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the
flywheel to
> the
> > middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much
is it!
> >
> Saw a BN2 clutch and aluminum flywheel try to come through the
bellhousing
> at Summit Point about eight years ago.  It sure made a mess of the
> bellhousing!
> Rooint. Not enough left to make a doorstop, but it did manage to
prevent the
> driver's legs being amputated.   It occurred to me at the time that
it would
> be a good idea to wrap the unit in Kevlar, maybe held on with steel
cable.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Fred Crowley <oldwolf@airmail.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Aluminum Flywheels Now on Sale
>
>
> >
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > --------------2B5A6939E080E769E02CC021
> >
> > I had an aluminum flywheel in my vintage race 3000 for several
years and
> that
> > bloody thing tried to kill me numerous times. First problem was
that the
> > vendor merely "pinned" the ring gear to the flywheel. Worked OK
for about
> 2
> > races, then I heard all sorts of clattering from inside the
bellhousing.
> Yup,
> > the pins had come out. Pulled the flywheel and fixed the problem
(I
> thought).
> > Next thing I notice the engine was barely turing over with the
starter -
> the
> > problem, the pins had come out again and the starter was cranking
the ring
> > gear around the flywheel! Pulled the dang thing again and using a
milling
> > machine bolted the ring gear to the flywheel - solved that
problem. Then
> > after a few races, there's a horrible vibration and noise -
thought for
> sure
> > the crank had broken. Turns out that all this on and off of
flywheel had
> > started to slightly wallow out the holes where it fitted onto the
crank
> and
> > the flywheel was wobbling around. Pulled the flywheel again and
milled
> steel
> > inserts. Solved that problem (I thought). After a few races the
bolt holes
> > started to wallow out and the flywheel was loose again. Pulled the
> flywheel,
> > decied to use it as a doorstop (best decision in 4 years!) and put
a Denis
> > Welch lightened steel flywheel on (it only weighed a couple of
pounds more
> > (<15)) and no problems mate. I wouldn't use an aluminum flywheel
on the
> > Healey engine again.
> >
> > To put things into perspective, measure the distance from the
flywheel to
> the
> > middle part of your anatomy when seated in the driver's - not much
is it!
> >
> > Regards  Fred
>
>


From lmercibn6 at mindspring.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 15:30:26 -0400
Subject: Re: sidescreen restoration

Alain,
I have and use an original set of sidescreens on my 1958 100-SIX, BN6.
The following is etched (heat stamped?) on mine.
Letters are approximately 1/8"...all caps...PERSPEX...nothing else.
On the front fixed section it is in the lower left and on the rear
movable section it is on the lower right. In both cases the word
PERSPEX is just above the screen frame and is read from inside the
car.
Hope this helps.
Larry Mercier
BN6
AN5
AN6
AN8

----- Original Message -----
From: Alain Giguère <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: sidescreen restoration


>
> I am getting a metal stamp made to replicate the mark on the
original
> side curtain acrylic panes.
> The original mark is very small, and was heat-stamped into the pane.
> This is what I think is written, although I cannot see clearly  some
> of the letters. Any thoughts?
>
>                          R
> FLEXIGLAS
> ACRYLIC
> A34


From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 21:24:28 EDT
Subject: Embarassing Moments

I thought the list need a little lightening and wanted to share today's 
incident.
Today, my wife broke down on the road with her Pontiac and the car wouldn't 
start.  Along came a helpful citizen who had her get back in the car and he 
got out of his car and he pushed her across an intersection into a gas 
station.  It was a beautiful day here in Iowa and he had the top down on his 
Ivory White convertible.  Only trouble, it was a Sebring, an Austin-Healey 
replica.  Needless to say, she just thanked him and never mentioned his 
misfortune.
Rudy Streng
Can you listers top this?

From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 22:00:51 EDT
Subject: Overdrive part needed

Hi guys!
This weekend I had planned to finish rebuilding my trans and overdrive.  
Well, the trans is back together.  During the final check of the overdrive 
components I found the second problem.  One of the small shafts that the 
gears for the planetary set rotate on has been destroyed...along with the two 
Torrington bearings.  The bearings I can get, but the shaft may be a problem. 
 I could replace the entire planetary set, but I really only need a new 
shaft.  Does anyone out there have some extra trans parts?  I have calls in 
to a few suppliers who are looking...but who knows.  Does anyone know what 
type of steel those shafts are made of?  I may be able to have one made up if 
I knew.  Any ideas?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6

From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 20:52:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Embarassing Moments

Okay Rudy.... Why would he be embarrassed?  His Car didn't break down.. or
Run out of Gas.... he was driving with his TOP DOWN....

Was the Sebring an issue?  Geez a Kit Car... ahh no it's not a Healey... but
it's a convertable... Sounds nicer then your wifes car up front!!!....

Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 8:24 PM
Subject: Embarassing Moments


>
> I thought the list need a little lightening and wanted to share today's
> incident.
> Today, my wife broke down on the road with her Pontiac and the car
wouldn't
> start.  Along came a helpful citizen who had her get back in the car and
he
> got out of his car and he pushed her across an intersection into a gas
> station.  It was a beautiful day here in Iowa and he had the top down on
his
> Ivory White convertible.  Only trouble, it was a Sebring, an Austin-Healey
> replica.  Needless to say, she just thanked him and never mentioned his
> misfortune.
> Rudy Streng
> Can you listers top this?
>


From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 19:13:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer repair shop - Watch out

Palo Alto Speedometer repaired my temperature gauge. It came back cleaned 
and the body was re-plated. They might do the same for a speedometer.

Mo-Ma replaced a bearing in my speedometer and it came back clean and in 
working order. It also came back missing the original Jewel lens. They sent 
an after market Jewel but it did not match the tachometer. After a few 
phone calls and a letter they finally sent an original Jewel. Be sure to 
photograph your gauge before sending it anywhere.

John
'62 BT7

At 12:38 PM 10/12/00 -0400, BillHUCK@aol.com wrote:

>Is there such a place in southwest US?


From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 13:25:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Shelley, Jack

Mark I cars had a Shelley LJ21 series jack.  There was also a date cast below 
the 21 which should be for the year the car was built, or possible the year 
prior.  THe LJ225 pot jacks were intorduced witht he MK II.  THe CA259 or 
CA311 are casting numbers on the yooke piece only of these jacks.

Roger

From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 16:09:32 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Steering Wheel

I am looking for a BJ8 adjustable steering wheel for a make work project.
Hence one that is essentially non-useable will do. Please contact me off
list.
TIA
Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH



From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:05:44 +0100
Subject: Castrol - AGAIN

As my copy of "Old Stager" - the magazine of the Historic Rally Car Register -
arrived on Saturday replete with Castrol details I thought that I would pass
them on to the list after last week's discussion.

Address: Castrol Classic Oils, Wakefield HOuse, Cambridge, CB4 5QZ
Tel +44 1954 231668
Fax +44 1954 231923

The above say they will supply lists of local stockists

http://www.castrolclassicoils.co.uk/ - this is just worth a good look.

That I guess is about it from this side of the pond on Castrol.

Peter Dzwig


From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 22:13:21 EDT
Subject:  East Bay LBC Sightings

Got back early from a weekend in Santa Cruz and decided to take Erika out for 
a short 4:00 p.m. spin down Danville Boulevard through Alamo and Danville and 
back -- only about six miles total.  Passed one yellow MGTD and two Austin 
Healey Sprites!  And it's not even British Car Week.  Let's keep it up!
John
100-Six   Erika the Red


From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 23:54:21 -0400
Subject: Re:  Heritage e-mail address


FYI, for those interested - BAS has worked on producing a repro "Karvel"
carpet.  I had them make up a kit for my BN-1 and although it's not
absolutely 'correct' it is way ahead of Wilton for original appearance.

Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, October 13, 2000 9:13 PM
Subject: Heritage e-mail address


>
>BAS Heritage Upholstery  e-mail is BAS JAG@helix.net
>
>    well worth using     Carroll Phillips
>
>


From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 07:15:00 -0500
Subject: boot finish

Hi Gang:

Can anyone tell me what type of materiel is used to make the deck of the
boot?  That is the piece that the armacord covers that fits over the gas
tank?  I can't seem to find that in the Moss catalog.   Is it luan type
wood, heavy cardboard?  Plywood? And does it fit from wall to wall?

Don
BN7

God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.


From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:11:49 -0400
Subject: Alpine 7256 Stereo

I have an Alpine 7256 AM/FM/Cassette stereo in my BT7 (converted to negative
ground).  I cannot figure out how to set the clock.  Can anybody tell me
how?  Searched Alpine's website to no avail for past product info.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb


From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:41:00 -0400
Subject: Re:BJ7 Project car


Hi You 'all,

A member of our local chapter is selling his '63 MKii BJ7 project car. 

Other commitments force the sale, but he will remain an active member. 
I understand that this was a low production model (about 3000). The car 
is complete, with all the original parts. It was originally Healey Blue.
If
you are interested please contact me of the list. Thanks.

Happy Healeying,

Doug

PS. This is the model that had the rollup windows, but the older dash.


________________________________________________________________

From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:23:36 EDT
Subject: Re: boot finish

Don :  the wood panel is part of the trunk upholstery kit that they supply. 
Yes it does go all the way accross the trunk, but the left side is hinged to 
allow access to the storage area between the bumper iron and the fender. As a 
sugestion on a couple of cars we have restored we have hinged both sides and 
the rear section between the fuel tank and the rear shroud to allow for more 
hidden storage areas.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  

From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:12:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Alpine 7256 Stereo

I have a 7401...don' t know if it is the same procedure..

Pull out the time knob (tuning knob when not pulled out) until the
time is displayed. Keep it pulled out and adjust the time using the 5
and 6 preset buttons.  Pretty intuitive...right!

Hope this helps.

Mike Goode
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 6:11 AM
Subject: Alpine 7256 Stereo


>
> I have an Alpine 7256 AM/FM/Cassette stereo in my BT7 (converted to
negative
> ground).  I cannot figure out how to set the clock.  Can anybody
tell me
> how?  Searched Alpine's website to no avail for past product info.
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>
>



From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 12:22:23 EDT
Subject: Re: East Bay LBC Sightings


In a message dated 10/15/00 7:15:58 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:

<< 
Got back early from a weekend in Santa Cruz and decided to take Erika out for 
a short 4:00 p.m. spin down Danville Boulevard through Alamo and Danville and 
back -- only about six miles total.  Passed one yellow MGTD and two Austin 
Healey Sprites!  And it's not even British Car Week.  Let's keep it up!
John
100-Six   Erika the Red >>

The cars were probably coming back from the British Car Autumn Classic at San 
Juan Bautista.  You should'a been there.  I am not being biased when I say 
that the Healeys were far and away the nicest looking cars on display. The 
judges all commented that choosing a best of marque was easy for all the 
other marques with only one really presentable car, if that.  But with the 
Healeys, they had three or four of each class (100s, 3000s, early Sprites, 
Spridgets) that would have qualified as best of class.  We have approximately 
twenty cars there. Beautiful day; nice driving roads.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 12:23:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re Painting a Car - No LBC content


                                            Blonde Paints a Porch

                                            A blonde, wanting to earn some 
money, decided to hire herself
                                            out as a handyman-type and started 
canvassing a wealthy
                                            neighborhood. She went to the front 
door of the first house and
                                            asked the owner if he had any jobs 
for her to do. "Well, you can
                                            paint my porch. How much will you 
charge?"

                                            The blonde said "How about 50 
dollars?" The man agreed and told
                                            her that the paint and ladders that 
she might need were in the
                                            garage. The man's wife, inside the 
house, heard the conversation
                                            and said to her husband, "Does she 
realize that the porch goes
                                            all the way around the house?"

                                            The man replied, "She should. She 
was standing on the porch."

                                            A short time later, the blonde came 
to the door to collect her
                                            money.

                                            "You're finished already?" he 
asked. "Yes," the blonde
                                            answered,
                                            "and I had paint left over, so I 
gave it two coats. "Impressed,
                                            the man reached in his pocket for 
the $50. "And by the way," the
                                            blonde added, "that's not a Porch, 
it's a Ferrari."

----------------------------------------------------------------

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 12:34:51 EDT
Subject: Re: boot finish


In a message dated 10/16/00 5:15:07 AM, dyarber@dynasty.net writes:

<< Hi Gang:

Can anyone tell me what type of materiel is used to make the deck of the
boot?  That is the piece that the armacord covers that fits over the gas
tank?  I can't seem to find that in the Moss catalog.   Is it luan type
wood, heavy cardboard?  Plywood? And does it fit from wall to wall?

Don
BN7 >>

The liner over the gas tank in the BN7 is made of two pieces of plywood, 
covered with black armacord that has been edged with a blind stitch. It has a 
cut-out to fit around the gasoline filler pipe. The smaller of the two pieces 
of plywood makes a "flap" over the left-side depression next to the gas tank, 
which forms a tool and jack stowage compartment. The flap is "hinged" with 
the armacord on top and is covered on the bottom with black vinyl attached 
with black carpet tacks.  

When I needed a new one a few years ago, I ordered it from Healey Surgeons in 
Maryland and it came completely assembled, spot-on to original standards, and 
fitted exactly.  Others of the small specialist suppliers may be able to 
supply them as well.  You could make one up, if you had an old piece to 
copy--it isn't too complex. 

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:48:39 -0700
Subject: RE: East Bay LBC Sightings

Is it my imagination or is there a lot of British car club stuff going on in
the Bay area?  I am heading to UC Berkeley around the first of the year and
would be interested in hearing about any active clubs and stuff.

Job possibilities would be cool too!  I don't want to be too much of a
starving student!

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:22 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: East Bay LBC Sightings




In a message dated 10/15/00 7:15:58 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:

<< 
Got back early from a weekend in Santa Cruz and decided to take Erika out
for 
a short 4:00 p.m. spin down Danville Boulevard through Alamo and Danville
and 
back -- only about six miles total.  Passed one yellow MGTD and two Austin 
Healey Sprites!  And it's not even British Car Week.  Let's keep it up!
John
100-Six   Erika the Red >>

The cars were probably coming back from the British Car Autumn Classic at
San 
Juan Bautista.  You should'a been there.  I am not being biased when I say 
that the Healeys were far and away the nicest looking cars on display. The 
judges all commented that choosing a best of marque was easy for all the 
other marques with only one really presentable car, if that.  But with the 
Healeys, they had three or four of each class (100s, 3000s, early Sprites, 
Spridgets) that would have qualified as best of class.  We have
approximately 
twenty cars there. Beautiful day; nice driving roads.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 11:44:01 -0600
Subject: AN5 for sale...still

Thought I'd try one more time to sell a really nice '59 Bugeye to the
listers.
Car is totally rebuilt. It has been updated with a 1275cc. Two 1 1/2" H4
SU's. Kent road cam. Sintered (cast) rockers. Adj. valve gear. High
compression
pistons. LCB header. Re-built ribcase transmission. 3.9:1 rear. Front disc
brakes. Wire wheels. Michelin 155 x 13 tires. Les Leston steering wheel .
Re-conditioned instruments. New interior,top,tonneau,side curtains. About
1500 miles since completion. Class winner at first showing. 2 stage Sikkens
body work. Imron chassis. "Gold Seal" like engine paint. A really nice and
fun car. Price is only $10,000. US nearly twice that invested,
yada,yada.....call or write today 505-352-1378
NO the BN1 is not for sale.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146


Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146


From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:13:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Alpine 7256 Stereo

Thanks Mike.  Mine didn't work that way, but it was close enough that I
finally got it right.
Lee


> I have a 7401...don' t know if it is the same procedure..
>
> Pull out the time knob (tuning knob when not pulled out) until the
> time is displayed. Keep it pulled out and adjust the time using the 5
> and 6 preset buttons.  Pretty intuitive...right!



From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:23:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: boot finish

You will know that it is the right size when it is
difficult to get it in a out of the trunk.
Dean BN7 - Had mine shipped from AH Spares.

--
You could make one up, if you
> had an old piece to 
> copy--it isn't too complex. 
> 
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson


__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf!  It's FREE.
http://im.yahoo.com/

From <CCruz at tribune.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:32:14 -0500
Subject: Wheel of fortune

Hey listers,

I thought I would share a recent Healey experience with you hoping you would
find it interesting.  On October 8, a few members of the Midwest AHC
(Chicago-Area) club planned a day trip to a grape-stomping festival near
Madison, Wisconsin.  I drove the back roads to the rallying point about 50
miles from my home.  Most of the trip was four lane, with a stop light every
mile or two.  The last fifteen miles was a nice twisty two lane country
road, a rarity in this part of the world.  I hooked up with two other club
members at the rally point.  The mistress (as my wife refers to my Healey)
was running well despite the 27 degree temperature.  The top was down, the
wind was very cold but my feet were nice and toasty.

After a quick breakfast and a top-off of gas we hoped onto the expressway
for a quick ride up to another country road that would take us north into
cheese country, the home of the dreaded GB Packers.  The other two Healeys
had their tops up - so I broke down and put the top up as well.  My teeth
were chattering and my fingers and ears were blue despite the gloves and
muffs.

On the expressway my '60 BN7 was the third car following a BJ7 and the
leader in a '60 BT7.  The three of us passed two pickups towing late sixties
Chevy Chevelle trailer-queens with a 70 SS between them doing 60-65 MPH.
For the most part the car was performing well.  About 150 yards in front of
the first pick up I began to move back into the right lane from the left
passing lane when all of a sudden the left rear quarter hit the ground hard.


The car began to fish tail.  Then all of a sudden the car whipped around 180
degrees.  I was facing the pickups I just passed racing backwards at 60 MPH.
Out of the corner of my eye I saw my left rear wheel race across the highway
down the ditch then up in the air and out of sight.  I Looked over my right
shoulder to see where I was going.  I was headed at a bad angle toward the
grassy median in the middle of the four lane expressway.  

Everything was happening so fast, however it almost seemed to be in slow
motion.  Those of you who have been in accidents before can probably relate.
I had time (however not a lot) to think about my possibilities and my
actions.  What I feared most was hitting the grass and rolling the car with
me in it.  I thought if I could turn the car around facing forward again I
could drive the car to a stop in the grass.  If my maneuver failed I was
prepared to lay down in the cockpit and grab the passenger seat bottom and
hope I didn't get thrown from the car.  I had my seat belt on - insert a
public service announcement here.

I turned the wheel and whipped the car around to my left.  Success!  The
plan worked.  I was facing forward again.  I drove the car down the small
grassy area and the car came to a stop.  I climbed out of the car and fell
to the ground.  By then the guys in the pickups I passed earlier stopped and
ran over.  The other Healeys raced to the next turn-around and returned.

My mistress laved in the grass at a funny angle.  The left rear drum brake
missing, shoes exposed and twisted with clumps of grass  stuck here and
there.  The axle shaft was protruding about eight inches.  The round spacer
twisted  out-of-round.  The lugs were completely stripped with no nuts.  The
tail pipes lay 30 feet behind the car, the muffler laid near the rear bumper
still somewhat attached to the flexible pipe which became unraveled.  

It turned out the wheel, ended up about 300 yards from the highway lying in
the middle of a recently harvested hay field.  The exterior of the wheel
still had the knockoff attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel.  The
lug nuts where trapped between the hub and wheel.  The holes in the hub for
the lugs were elongated.  The brake drum was resting on the side of the road
near where the adventure started.

I collected my parts and began to re-play the event in my head.  The first
of a thousand re-plays since then.  Could I have done anything different?
Did I hear anything leading up to the incident?  Did I feel anything that
was out of the ordinary?  I keep coming back to one thing.   I should have
inspected the wheels prior to the trip.  

You see, I had returned late the previous day from a week in Los Angeles.  I
picked up the club newsletter which arrived when I was on the road and read
about the trip.   My decision to go on the tour was spur-of-the-moment and I
didn't leave myself enough time to go through the prep & check routine I
normally follow before a long drive.  Lesson learned.  A moment hasn't gone
by since that I don't reflect on my good fortune.  My baby is banged up,
bruised and broken.  A new dress, some jewelry and some TLC will have her
back on the open road by spring.

Check you wheels - its the only thing keeping your car from the road.

Happy Healeying,
Carlos Cruz

'60 AH 3K BN7 - limping through the winter...

From Jon Giles <JGiles at paulreinhartinc.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:52:08 -0500
Subject: Seal for a Hood - BJ7

Driving in the rain for the first time (it has only rained twice in Dallas
in the last four months) I found the front of my BJ7 leaks.  How unusual.  I
looked in the parts listings I have and did not find a seal for the front
hood (engine compartment).  Is there suppose to be a rubber seal?  


Jonathan Giles


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 16:59:46 EDT
Subject: Re: boot finish


In a message dated 10/16/00 1:23:57 PM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:

<< You will know that it is the right size when it is
difficult to get it in a out of the trunk.
Dean BN7 - Had mine shipped from AH Spares. >>

Like removing the gear shift tunnel -- think of it as a large version of one 
of those puzzles with the two looped nails fixed together.  If you move it in 
exactly the right sequence of directions, it comes out slick as can be, 
without being forced at all.  Then, the problem is remembering the sequence 
so that you can reverse it to get it in again. Oh, don't forget that, unlike 
the four-seater, the two-seat trunk floor is fastened to the rear shroud with 
trim screws.

Cheers
Gary

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 17:12:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Seal for a Hood - BJ7


In a message dated 10/16/00 1:55:47 PM, JGiles@paulreinhartinc.com writes:

<< How unusual.  I
looked in the parts listings I have and did not find a seal for the front
hood (engine compartment).  Is there suppose to be a rubber seal?  


Jonathan Giles >>

The only "seal" as such is the rubber press-on deflector that hooks over the 
lip of the shroud opening on the carburetor side, which we believe was 
designed to keep water from getting into the carb intakes.  Other than that, 
the overlap between the bonnet and the opening is supposed to take care of 
any water.  Are you sure it was leaking around the bonnet and not just 
getting sucked in from the grille or from underneath?  Sure you've got the 
inner fender extensions and the radiator air deflectors in place?
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "jim t.p. ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 14:18:28 -0700
Subject: Healey for sale sighting...NH

There's a silver (or gray) 100-6 for sale in Amherst, NH, in some garage on 
101a.  Anybody know about it, or is the seller on the list?


Jim
'64 BJ7
___________________________________________________________________________
Visit http://www.visto.com/info, your free web-based communications center.
Visto.com. Life on the Dot.


From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 17:56:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey for sale sighting...NH

Jim,
1.)  Can you be more specific. I'd like to steal it.
2.)  If you see mine, please don't put location on net !!!

Signed Anonymous
ryan@jimryan.com writes:

<< There's a silver (or gray) 100-6 for sale in Amherst, NH, in some garage 
on 101a.  Anybody know about it, or is the seller on the list? >>

From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:03:42 -0400
Subject: top springs

Hi Listers,
I am looking for a source for the springs that attach to the top
of my BJ7.  Moss gives them a part number of 850-010.  Moss also
informs me that they won't be in until late December.  Any one with  an
extra pair that they want to get rid of or knows a source please get in touch
with me.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV


From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:26:06 EDT
Subject: Overdrive part found!

Many thanks to all who replied during my quest for a planet gear shaft.  A 
servicable used shaft and new bearings are on the way, so in a week or so I 
will have my OD back together.  Still by far the best mailing list out there.
Cheers and thank you,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6

From Fred Anderson <fanderso at mail.orion.org>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 17:54:29 -0500
Subject: Rear Springs

Has anyone replaced the rear springs on a BJ8? The left rear on my BJ8 is
about 1 inch lower than the right.I would like to replace both springs,but
do not want the rear end to set up to high,and who is the best source for
rear springs? thanks Fred...
BJ8 and BJ7.





From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:44:35 -0500
Subject: boot trim

Thanks to all who responded regarding the boot trim piece.

Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.


From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:28:12 -0400
Subject: Re: need info





> I have recently bought a1957 -100/6 -2 port head, that has been sitting
> in a garage for the past 22 years and needs restoration. I can turn the
> engine over with the fan blade. I would like to do a compression check,
> is there anything that i need to know or do before I try- Thanks to the
> prince of darkness (lucas) i'm still sorting things out
>  2nd .I found the starter solenoid and it appears to have a rubber push
> button, is it used as a remote starter while doing work on the engine or
> is there no function. This is my first attempt at a restoration, other
> than factory service manuals are there any other good
> resources.......Thanks for the help....Dennis Broughel


From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 20:48:39 EDT
Subject: Re: East Bay LBC Sightings

In a message dated 10/16/00 9:51:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
lanej@mossmotors.com writes:

<< 
 Is it my imagination or is there a lot of British car club stuff going on in
 the Bay area?  I am heading to UC Berkeley around the first of the year and
 would be interested in hearing about any active clubs and stuff. >>

Jonathon,
Yes, the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club was very active this spring, summer 
and fall ... two to three events each month.  Check the web page at: 
 jtpr-inc.com/ggahc 
Look forward to seeing you at Bay Area Healey events next year.
John 


From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 21:55:47 -0400
Subject: Flywheel

Hi all:
Dropped off my flywheel at the local machine shop this afternoon to have it
resurfaced.  The surface where the clutch disk rides is slightly raised
compared to the surface beyond this area.  They wanted to know what the
measurement might be between these two surfaces.  Were talking only a few
thousandth's.  Would anyone know if there is spec. on this.  This is a bn1
flywheel.  TIA
lance
54 bn1



From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:36:29 -0700
Subject: Re: boot finish

I agree.  There is no magic, just careful thought.  I have the pattern for
the wood "floor" piece, and for the covering Armacord, if anyone is
interested.

John Snyder

----------
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: boot finish
> Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 1:59 PM
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 10/16/00 1:23:57 PM, healeybn7@yahoo.com writes:
> 
> << You will know that it is the right size when it is
> difficult to get it in a out of the trunk.
> Dean BN7 - Had mine shipped from AH Spares. >>
> 
> Like removing the gear shift tunnel -- think of it as a large version of
one 
> of those puzzles with the two looped nails fixed together.  If you move
it in 
> exactly the right sequence of directions, it comes out slick as can be, 
> without being forced at all.  Then, the problem is remembering the
sequence 
> so that you can reverse it to get it in again. Oh, don't forget that,
unlike 
> the four-seater, the two-seat trunk floor is fastened to the rear shroud
with 
> trim screws.
> 
> Cheers
> Gary

From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:06:59 EDT
Subject: Re: need info

You may be interested in the newly released "AUSTIN-HEALEY 100/100-6/3000 
Restoration Guide by Gary Anderson & Roger Moment." This book is available 
thru British Car BOOKSHOP at WWW.BRITISHCAR.COM for $29.95 plus 
shipping/handling.
I have no financial interest.

Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging
AHCA Liaison for Concours       

From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 10:22:31 -0600
Subject: AN5 for sale 

Thought I'd try one more time to sell a really nice '59 Bugeye to the
listers.
Car is totally rebuilt. It has been updated with a 1275cc. Two 1 1/2" H4
SU's. Kent road cam. Sintered rockers. Adj. valve gear. High compression
pistons. LCB header. Re-built ribcase transmission. 3.9:1 rear. Front disc
brakes. Wire wheels. Michelin 155 x 13 tires. Les Leston steering wheel .
Re-conditioned instruments. New interior,top,tonneau,side curtains. About
1500 miles since completion. Class winner at first showing. 2 stage Sikkens
body work. Imron chassis. "Gold Seal" like engine paint. A really nice and
fun car. Price is only $10,000. US nearly twice that invested,
yada,yada.....call or write today 505-352-1378

NO the BN1 is not for sale.

Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque

From "Jim Ryan" <ryan at jimryan.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 06:31:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey for sale sighting...NH

Oh, please.  Let's not start this anonymous crap...

Paranoia is healthy.;+}

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of DMMax@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 5:57 PM
To: ryan@jimryan.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey for sale sighting...NH



Jim,
1.)  Can you be more specific. I'd like to steal it.
2.)  If you see mine, please don't put location on net !!!

Signed Anonymous
ryan@jimryan.com writes:

<< There's a silver (or gray) 100-6 for sale in Amherst, NH, in some garage
on 101a.  Anybody know about it, or is the seller on the list? >>


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 06:27:26 -0500
Subject: Re: need info

This excellent new book is also available through the AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB, USA 
for $30 postpaid.  check it out on www.healey.org

happy healeying,

jerry wall
v.p.,books, badges, lapel pins and bonneville salt flats HEALEY record runs 
video
roads scholar
----- Original Message -----

From: MBran89793@aol.com
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: need info
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:06:59 EDT

 
You may be interested in the newly released "AUSTIN-HEALEY 100/100-6/3000  
Restoration Guide by Gary Anderson & Roger Moment." This book is available  
thru British Car BOOKSHOP at WWW.BRITISHCAR.COM for $29.95 plus  
shipping/handling. 
I have no financial interest. 
 
Marion S. Brantley, Jr. 
President & Delegate of Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club 
Concours Committee Chairman- Judges & Judging 
AHCA Liaison for Concours        



From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:54:10 +0100
Subject: RE: boot finish

What car are we talking about here? I can see nothing
that corresponds to this in my parts book.
And no wooden bit came with the boot trim kit for my BT7
If(!!) memory serves me well, I'd have bought it at SC Parts
near Gatwick Airport, UK.

Simon.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HLYDOC@aol.com
> Sent: 16 October 2000 16:24
> To: dyarber@dynasty.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: boot finish
> 
> 
> 
> Don :  the wood panel is part of the trunk upholstery kit that 
> they supply. 
> Yes it does go all the way accross the trunk, but the left side 
> is hinged to 
> allow access to the storage area between the bumper iron and the 
> fender. As a 
> sugestion on a couple of cars we have restored we have hinged 
> both sides and 
> the rear section between the fuel tank and the rear shroud to 
> allow for more 
> hidden storage areas.
> 
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way  
> Stockton Calif.  95205
> 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at       <A 
> HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  

From <CCruz at tribune.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:32:30 -0500
Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Good morning Listers,

Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I appreciate
your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more details.  I
will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.

Best regards,
Carlos Cruz


Q:  What actually broke or came loose?  
Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?

A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose, stripping most of
the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the wheel some
play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub separated
from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping the lug nuts
between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of yet, for that
matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to inspect
the car tomorrow.

Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected the wheels
before setting out?  
Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might have found?

A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or prior
to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also inspect the
brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of leaks.  In
the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and shocks.  I
tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't take a lot
of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and I'm ready to
go.

Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?

A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now that the car is
home on jacks.

Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced vibration, throttle
steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.  

A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I was wearing
didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car didn't
vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment I took my
foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable signs.  The
drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.  Up
until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or steering left to
pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.  

Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug nuts failed
allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.  

A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a smooth piece
of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on the stud.  I
believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight until the last
moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured or
broke.





From Will Laughton <wls at btconnect.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:53:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Aluminium Flywheel

Listers

I have followed the thread about aluminium flywheels and reduced steel
flywheels with interest. I have been race and rally preparing Healeys for
many years for a substantial number of customers and have installed block
forged aluminium fly wheels (machined from a solid billet) in many of them.
Andrew Davidson had one in his BJ8 which performed so well in last years
Monte and many other competition successes. All high stress events and I
have to say I have never had any problems like the ones written about by
some Listers.

I would therefore have to question whether there were other reasons for the
poor performance. How were the flywheels manufactured and by whom? And then
a rather embarassing one - how were they fitted and by whom?

My own experience certainly won't change my mind that the advantages to the
performance enthusiast are considerable and the risks minimal (if any).

David Ward of www.bighealey.ltd.uk


-----Original Message-----
From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 17 October 2000 03:14
Subject: Flywheel


>
>Hi all:
>Dropped off my flywheel at the local machine shop this afternoon to have it
>resurfaced.  The surface where the clutch disk rides is slightly raised
>compared to the surface beyond this area.  They wanted to know what the
>measurement might be between these two surfaces.  Were talking only a few
>thousandth's.  Would anyone know if there is spec. on this.  This is a bn1
>flywheel.  TIA
>lance
>54 bn1
>
>
>



From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 08:06:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Rear Springs

Fred,
I have had new Moss springs on for 5 years and they are drooping like yours.
Next time, I wouldn't replace the originals, but take them (on the car) to a
spring shop and have them rearched and maybe have a leaf replaced with
higher quality or whatever the shop recommends. That worked fine with my
other British car.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Anderson [mailto:fanderso@mail.orion.org]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 3:54 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Springs



Has anyone replaced the rear springs on a BJ8? The left rear on my BJ8 is
about 1 inch lower than the right.I would like to replace both springs,but
do not want the rear end to set up to high,and who is the best source for
rear springs? thanks Fred...
BJ8 and BJ7.




From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:59:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Rear Springs

I replaced the springs on my BJ8 in the Fall of '94 and have put on 
7-8K miles.  I haven't noticed any sag yet. I got them from Moss and 
they came with a made in England sticker on them.

Herman

>I have had new Moss springs on for 5 years and they are drooping like yours.
>Next time, I wouldn't replace the originals, but take them (on the car) to a
>spring shop and have them rearched and maybe have a leaf replaced with
>higher quality or whatever the shop recommends. That worked fine with my
>other British car.




>Has anyone replaced the rear springs on a BJ8? The left rear on my BJ8 is
>about 1 inch lower than the right.I would like to replace both springs,but
>do not want the rear end to set up to high,and who is the best source for
>rear springs? thanks Fred...
>BJ8 and BJ7.


From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:18:26 -0500
Subject: Historic Rally Organizations in England

All:

Here's a transcript of an exchange I've been having with a gentleman in
England about the rally car organizations they have over on the other
side of the pond.  I was previously unaware of the existence of such
organizations.

The website of the HRCR listed at the end is pretty interesting and has
some nice pictures of rally cars (even a Healey 3000); check it out.


> Peter:
>
> The Castrol stuff is interesting, but I'm more interested in this
> "Historic Rally Car Register" and it's magazine.  I've never heard of
> the organization.  Where is it based and what are the rules for entry?
> That is, what qualifies a car to be on the Register?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Fred Hunter

Fred:

The Historic Rally Car Register is one of three major historic rallying
organizations in the UK. The others are HERO and CRA (Historic Endurance
Rallying
Organization and Classic Rally Association). HRCR caters for all those
who own cars
of a type that was rallied in the classic period  defined as up to 1973
(I think)
which is what we call "historics" here. They don't have to be actual
rally cars ie
they can be non-works (mine isn't ex-works) cars of a type that was
rallied only
period mods are allowed, defined as those of a type which were made in
period - and
provably so!

They run several national series of rallies at a variety of levels from
pure
beginners up to historic stage rallies. So these vary from a run through
the English
countryside of a weekend to full bore full stage rallies with few holds
barred -
except for those excluded by the regs.

Most are run to regularity rules (if you don't know what they are, they
are stages
on which you have to maintain an average speed and may not exceed it)
The point is
to choose what you want to do and go with the sort of thing you feel
capable of. But
the rallies are fun. On a recent one we had everything from AC Aces
through Sprites,
various Big Healeys in various stages of tune, Singers, even an Austin
A35, Jags,
Triumphs etc.

To be honest the mag isn't that good but it does keep us all in touch!

Check out their website at http://www.hrcr.co.uk/

I have no idea if there are many US members but there are a few in
Europe and Oz.

Regards,

Peter

From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:09:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that is not done
on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
care....Neil


----- Original Message -----
From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
> Good morning Listers,
>
> Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
appreciate
> your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more details.  I
> will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
>
>
> Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
>
> A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose, stripping most
of
> the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the wheel some
> play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
separated
> from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
> fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
> still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping the lug nuts
> between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of yet, for that
> matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
inspect
> the car tomorrow.
>
> Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected the wheels
> before setting out?
> Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might have found?
>
> A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
prior
> to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
> check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also inspect the
> brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of leaks.  In
> the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and shocks.  I
> tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't take a lot
> of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and I'm ready to
> go.
>
> Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
>
> A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now that the car
is
> home on jacks.
>
> Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced vibration, throttle
> steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
>
> A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I was wearing
> didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
didn't
> vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment I took my
> foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
> quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable signs.  The
> drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
> noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.
Up
> until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or steering left to
> pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
> drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
> away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
>
> Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug nuts failed

> allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
>
> A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
> severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a smooth piece
> of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on the stud.  I
> believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight until the last
> moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
> broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured
or
> broke.
>
>
>
>


From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:12:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Had the front wheels off my recently purchased BN1 and found only 2 of 4
nuts on each hub.  Yikes!
Where can I purchase new ones?

George
BN1L/157155

----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <CCruz@tribune.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
> Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
> aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
> while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
> especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
> told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
> torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that is not
done
> on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> care....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
> Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
> >
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
> appreciate
> > your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more details.
I
> > will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> >
> >
> > Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> > Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> >
> > A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose, stripping
most
> of
> > the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the wheel
some
> > play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
> separated
> > from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
> > fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
> > still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping the lug
nuts
> > between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of yet, for
that
> > matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
> inspect
> > the car tomorrow.
> >
> > Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected the
wheels
> > before setting out?
> > Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might have
found?
> >
> > A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
> prior
> > to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
> > check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> > points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also inspect
the
> > brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of leaks.
In
> > the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and shocks.
I
> > tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't take a
lot
> > of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and I'm ready
to
> > go.
> >
> > Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> >
> > A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now that the
car
> is
> > home on jacks.
> >
> > Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced vibration,
throttle
> > steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> >
> > A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I was
wearing
> > didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
> didn't
> > vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment I took
my
> > foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
> > quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable signs.
The
> > drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
> > noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.
> Up
> > until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or steering left
to
> > pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
> > drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
> > away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> >
> > Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug nuts
failed
>
> > allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> >
> > A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
> > severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a smooth
piece
> > of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on the stud.
I
> > believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight until the
last
> > moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> > thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
> > broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured
> or
> > broke.
> >
> >
> >
> >


From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:19:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear Springs

I, too, suffer from a severe list to port.  How hard is it to get a local
shop to re-arch springs on a Healey.  I live in dire fear of leaving my BT7
in the hands of somebody who thinks it is just a car.
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb


> Fred,
> I have had new Moss springs on for 5 years and they are drooping like
yours.
> Next time, I wouldn't replace the originals, but take them (on the car) to
a
> spring shop and have them rearched and maybe have a leaf replaced with
> higher quality or whatever the shop recommends. That worked fine with my
> other British car.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
>
> Has anyone replaced the rear springs on a BJ8? The left rear on my BJ8 is
> about 1 inch lower than the right.I would like to replace both springs,but
> do not want the rear end to set up to high,and who is the best source for
> rear springs? thanks Fred...
> BJ8 and BJ7.



From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:37:05 -0400
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Neil,
The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical on
one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional surface
area to prevent them for loosing. Nuts do not have a tendency to loosen
easer after numerous times. They will come loose if they are not tightened
properly. I would recommend strongly not to use any nut which is not
designed for the hub. If the nut is not conical and permits the hub or rim
to move circumferentially back and forth  under acceleration or braking
forces, the wheel will come lose. My take on this situation is one of the
following:
1 lug nuts were not tightened properly tom start with.
2 Nut was not the proper ones( regular not conical).

 It must be remembered that the stud and nut design on the Healeys are the
same that are on your car or SUV today. And I can assure you, if you leave
them loose the tire and rim will come off just like the one on Carlos's car.

I don't mean to sound inflexible, but this subject is to critical to have
people doing their own thing and not be correct in their recommendations.

Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:10 PM
> To: CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
>
> Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
> aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
> while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
> especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
> told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
> torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that
> is not done
> on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> care....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
> Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
> >
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
> appreciate
> > your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more
> details.  I
> > will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> >
> >
> > Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> > Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> >
> > A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose,
> stripping most
> of
> > the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the
> wheel some
> > play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
> separated
> > from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
> > fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
> > still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping
> the lug nuts
> > between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of
> yet, for that
> > matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
> inspect
> > the car tomorrow.
> >
> > Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected
> the wheels
> > before setting out?
> > Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might
> have found?
> >
> > A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
> prior
> > to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
> > check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> > points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also
> inspect the
> > brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of
> leaks.  In
> > the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and
> shocks.  I
> > tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't
> take a lot
> > of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and
> I'm ready to
> > go.
> >
> > Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> >
> > A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now
> that the car
> is
> > home on jacks.
> >
> > Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced
> vibration, throttle
> > steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> >
> > A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I
> was wearing
> > didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
> didn't
> > vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment
> I took my
> > foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
> > quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable
> signs.  The
> > drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
> > noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.
> Up
> > until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or
> steering left to
> > pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
> > drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
> > away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> >
> > Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug
> nuts failed
>
> > allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> >
> > A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
> > severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a
> smooth piece
> > of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on
> the stud.  I
> > believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight
> until the last
> > moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> > thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
> > broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured
> or
> > broke.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>



From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:17:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Richard, the nuts on my car are the conical type but the back of each nut
has a cris cross cut in them which seem to grip the stud like a lock nut.
Mine have never come loose but I have been warned about making sure they are
torqued correctly and checked from time to time.This was the main point of
my post....Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri@email.msn.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; <CCruz@tribune.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:37 PM
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


> Neil,
> The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical
on
> one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional
surface
> area to prevent them for loosing. Nuts do not have a tendency to loosen
> easer after numerous times. They will come loose if they are not tightened
> properly. I would recommend strongly not to use any nut which is not
> designed for the hub. If the nut is not conical and permits the hub or rim
> to move circumferentially back and forth  under acceleration or braking
> forces, the wheel will come lose. My take on this situation is one of the
> following:
> 1 lug nuts were not tightened properly tom start with.
> 2 Nut was not the proper ones( regular not conical).
>
>  It must be remembered that the stud and nut design on the Healeys are the
> same that are on your car or SUV today. And I can assure you, if you leave
> them loose the tire and rim will come off just like the one on Carlos's
car.
>
> I don't mean to sound inflexible, but this subject is to critical to have
> people doing their own thing and not be correct in their recommendations.
>
> Richard Pratt
> 65 BJ8
> Cincinnati, OH
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:10 PM
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> >
> >
> > Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all
be
> > aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club
members,
> > while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> > driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen
up
> > especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> > locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I
was
> > told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should
be
> > torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> > loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that
> > is not done
> > on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> > shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> > care....Neil
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
> > Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
> > appreciate
> > > your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more
> > details.  I
> > > will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this
email.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > >
> > >
> > > Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> > > Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> > >
> > > A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose,
> > stripping most
> > of
> > > the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the
> > wheel some
> > > play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
> > separated
> > > from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.
In
> > > fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off
was
> > > still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping
> > the lug nuts
> > > between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of
> > yet, for that
> > > matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
> > inspect
> > > the car tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected
> > the wheels
> > > before setting out?
> > > Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might
> > have found?
> > >
> > > A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
> > prior
> > > to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.
I
> > > check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> > > points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also
> > inspect the
> > > brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of
> > leaks.  In
> > > the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and
> > shocks.  I
> > > tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't
> > take a lot
> > > of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and
> > I'm ready to
> > > go.
> > >
> > > Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> > >
> > > A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now
> > that the car
> > is
> > > home on jacks.
> > >
> > > Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced
> > vibration, throttle
> > > steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> > >
> > > A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I
> > was wearing
> > > didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
> > didn't
> > > vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment
> > I took my
> > > foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this
one
> > > quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable
> > signs.  The
> > > drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that
they
> > > noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke
loose.
> > Up
> > > until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or
> > steering left to
> > > pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against
the
> > > drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left
wheel
> > > away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> > >
> > > Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug
> > nuts failed
> >
> > > allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> > >
> > > A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs
were
> > > severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a
> > smooth piece
> > > of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on
> > the stud.  I
> > > believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight
> > until the last
> > > moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> > > thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the
nuts
> > > broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs
fractured
> > or
> > > broke.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 15:22:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Carlos -
I'm am very glad your incident didn't result in injury to yourself or more
damage to your car.   Having just had two rear tire blowouts in my BJ8 at
only about 70 mph, I know how scary that was.  Can't imagine having an
experience like yours!

I have mentioned previously on the list that I like to mark a  thin "torque
stripe" on my knockoffs when I install them.  It's just a small stripe (or
two adjacent dots) of paint, almost invisible unless you're looking for it,
that goes from the wire wheel hub to the knockoff, and gives a quick visual
indication should a knockoff start to loosen.   I also have torque striped
the splined hub adapter and nuts.  These are visible  through the spokes
with the wheel installed (again, only if you are looking), and would give
the same indication of loosening, avoiding having to remove the wheel for
periodic checking.    I find the torque marks very convenient for a quick
check before starting out on a trip, although I have never had either a
knockoff or the hub adapter nuts loosen.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: CCruz@tribune.com <CCruz@tribune.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
>Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
>aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
>while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
>driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
>especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
>locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
>told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
>torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
>loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that is not
done
>on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
>shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
>care....Neil
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
>Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
>>
>> Good morning Listers,
>>
>> Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
>appreciate
>> your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more details.
I
>> will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Carlos Cruz
>>
>>
>> Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
>> Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
>>
>> A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose, stripping most
>of
>> the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the wheel
some
>> play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
>separated
>> from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
>> fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
>> still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping the lug
nuts
>> between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of yet, for that
>> matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
>inspect
>> the car tomorrow.
>>
>> Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected the wheels
>> before setting out?
>> Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might have
found?
>>
>> A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
>prior
>> to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
>> check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
>> points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also inspect the
>> brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of leaks.  In
>> the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and shocks.
I
>> tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't take a
lot
>> of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and I'm ready
to
>> go.
>>
>> Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
>>
>> A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now that the car
>is
>> home on jacks.
>>
>> Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced vibration,
throttle
>> steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
>>
>> A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I was
wearing
>> didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
>didn't
>> vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment I took my
>> foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
>> quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable signs.  The
>> drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
>> noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.
>Up
>> until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or steering left
to
>> pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
>> drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
>> away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
>>
>> Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug nuts
failed
>
>> allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
>>
>> A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
>> severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a smooth
piece
>> of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on the stud.  I
>> believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight until the last
>> moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
>> thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
>> broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured
>or
>> broke.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:42:38 -0700
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Mine too are the self locking conical type, though the new ones we supply
are non locking.  Like a nyloc nut, I would imagine that the split type
locking design is less effective the more frequently it is removed, however
I would agree that nothing is a substitute for proper torque.

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Trelenberg [mailto:neilberg@telus.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:18 PM
To: Richard E. Pratt; CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up



Richard, the nuts on my car are the conical type but the back of each nut
has a cris cross cut in them which seem to grip the stud like a lock nut.
Mine have never come loose but I have been warned about making sure they are
torqued correctly and checked from time to time.This was the main point of
my post....Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri@email.msn.com>
To: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>; <CCruz@tribune.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:37 PM
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


> Neil,
> The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical
on
> one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional
surface
> area to prevent them for loosing. Nuts do not have a tendency to loosen
> easer after numerous times. They will come loose if they are not tightened
> properly. I would recommend strongly not to use any nut which is not
> designed for the hub. If the nut is not conical and permits the hub or rim
> to move circumferentially back and forth  under acceleration or braking
> forces, the wheel will come lose. My take on this situation is one of the
> following:
> 1 lug nuts were not tightened properly tom start with.
> 2 Nut was not the proper ones( regular not conical).
>
>  It must be remembered that the stud and nut design on the Healeys are the
> same that are on your car or SUV today. And I can assure you, if you leave
> them loose the tire and rim will come off just like the one on Carlos's
car.
>
> I don't mean to sound inflexible, but this subject is to critical to have
> people doing their own thing and not be correct in their recommendations.
>
> Richard Pratt
> 65 BJ8
> Cincinnati, OH
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:10 PM
> > To: CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> >
> >
> > Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all
be
> > aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club
members,
> > while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> > driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen
up
> > especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> > locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I
was
> > told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should
be
> > torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> > loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that
> > is not done
> > on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> > shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> > care....Neil
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
> > Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Good morning Listers,
> > >
> > > Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
> > appreciate
> > > your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more
> > details.  I
> > > will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this
email.
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > Carlos Cruz
> > >
> > >
> > > Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> > > Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> > >
> > > A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose,
> > stripping most
> > of
> > > the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the
> > wheel some
> > > play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
> > separated
> > > from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.
In
> > > fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off
was
> > > still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping
> > the lug nuts
> > > between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of
> > yet, for that
> > > matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
> > inspect
> > > the car tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected
> > the wheels
> > > before setting out?
> > > Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might
> > have found?
> > >
> > > A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
> > prior
> > > to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.
I
> > > check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> > > points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also
> > inspect the
> > > brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of
> > leaks.  In
> > > the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and
> > shocks.  I
> > > tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't
> > take a lot
> > > of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and
> > I'm ready to
> > > go.
> > >
> > > Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> > >
> > > A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now
> > that the car
> > is
> > > home on jacks.
> > >
> > > Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced
> > vibration, throttle
> > > steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> > >
> > > A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I
> > was wearing
> > > didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
> > didn't
> > > vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment
> > I took my
> > > foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this
one
> > > quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable
> > signs.  The
> > > drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that
they
> > > noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke
loose.
> > Up
> > > until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or
> > steering left to
> > > pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against
the
> > > drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left
wheel
> > > away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> > >
> > > Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug
> > nuts failed
> >
> > > allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> > >
> > > A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs
were
> > > severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a
> > smooth piece
> > > of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on
> > the stud.  I
> > > believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight
> > until the last
> > > moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> > > thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the
nuts
> > > broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs
fractured
> > or
> > > broke.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 16:54:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Neil,
There was something you touched on in your post that I would like to expand
upon a little.  In addition the the locking nuts wearing, the holes in the
splined hub itself can also become oversized, from both repeated
nut torquing or if the nuts are insufficiently torqued and the holes wear on
the lugs.  The result is that the counter-bored depressions around the lug
holes in the hub grow to the point that the lug nut no longer locks against
them when fully tight.  The nuts will torque down through the hubs onto the
brake drum, leaving the hub loose enough to eventually eat its way off.  If
you can see any nut end when you hold a lug nut in place on a hub and look
across the flat hub mounting surface the hub is too worn to use.
Insufficient lug nut torque can be a particular problem
on the left side, where the centrifugal force from going down the road urges
them in a loosening direction.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <CCruz@tribune.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
> Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
> aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
> while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
> especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
> told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
> torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that is not
done
> on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> care....Neil
>



From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 18:20:48 EDT
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Listers
Regarding "lug nuts", the ones used on non-wire wheel Healeys (steel wheels), 
are the conventional conical nuts without any locking mechanism. Slightly 
larger then the nuts previously discussed. Always wondered why there was a 
difference. I suppose the forces and reactions at work on the rear hubs with 
knock offs is slightly different then the steel wheels. There is less space 
between the wire wheel center and the hub so that may necessitate a smaller 
nut. Neither probably gets checked for proper torque very often, one being 
behind the wheel and the other under the hub cap. Either way Steve's 
suggestion about the "torque stripe" was a good one. 
Aloha
Perry

From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:20:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Springs

In a message dated 10/17/2000 1:11:34 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:

<< 
 I, too, suffer from a severe list to port.  How hard is it to get a local
 shop to re-arch springs on a Healey.  I live in dire fear of leaving my BT7
 in the hands of somebody who thinks it is just a car.
 Lee
 '62 BT7 Tri-carb >>

I empathize with your fears about letting just any mechanic take a wrench to 
your car.  Especially in the case of rear springs since, unless they've been 
off the car in the past 5-10 years, the front bolts are likely rusted in 
solid requiring much patience and ingenuity.  If you can take the springs off 
yourself, and we can provide guidance on how to overcome the rusted bolt 
issue, then it is better for youto just take the pieces into be rearched, 
assuming there is a shop availabale to you that can do this.

In any event, the U clamps and other screws that hold the springs together 
are not provided with new ones, so it is important athat you save the old 
springs (if you get new ones) and salvaget hese hard-to-find bits.  If you 
are going to have a shop rearch your springs, againl you need to take them 
apart yourself first, so that you don't destroy these clamps.  I can give you 
lots of pointers on what to watch for.

Roger

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:42:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

In a message dated 10/17/2000 2:39:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
prattri@email.msn.com writes:

<< The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. >>

Richard, sorry, but they are in fact a 100% metal "self-lock" conical nut.

<<They are conical on  one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and 
provide additional surface area to prevent them for loosing. >>

True.  Sorta. Only applies to WW equipped cars.  Since my Parts book for 
BJ-7/8 is out in shop, I have to refer you to Moss Cat. # AHY-14, Page 130, 
Item # 57.

All that being said:  NEVER, EVER, reuse ANY kind of "self-locker".  PERIOD.

It is a very common falicy that the "all steel" ones may be re-used with no 
prob.

NOT. 

 Kinda like re-using crank shaft bearings only your life does not rely on a 
motor going south.

Regards,

        Ed


From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:01:18 EDT
Subject: Golden Beige Metallic

Received this one in response to my web page. Can anyone help Paul out? I 
gave him Don Pikovnik's email and recommended the book (mine got borrowed six 
months ago and I'm still chasing the guy to get it back!!)
Thanks,
Jim Werner

Reply-to:   pkoehler@slic.com (Paul F. Koehler)

Perhaps you can help me with my query. Do you know of a modern paint color 
(base coat/clear coat) from GM, Ford, BMW, Nissan or anybody else out there, 
that come close to Healey enamel Gold Beige Metallic? If not, can you point 
me in the right direction?
Thanks
Paul Koehler
6 Wilcox Ave.
Malone, NY 12953
518-483-1773
67- BJ8
Reply-to:   pkoehler@slic.com (Paul F. Koehler)

Thanks,

Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Note address change from BGAHC@aol.com

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:23:29 EDT
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


In a message dated 10/17/00 12:39:40 PM, prattri@email.msn.com writes:

<< The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical 
on
one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional surface
area to prevent them for loosing. >>

Just so I'm sure I understand what we're talking about -- these aren't really 
"lug nuts," are they? Carlos's car had center-lock wheels and these nuts are 
the ones that held the hubs on.  I always think of "lug nuts" as those used 
to hold a wheel onto a hub.

The correct original nuts were "slit nuts" with little slits around the 
circumference. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the slits?  I have been told 
that these nuts are intended to be single use; once removed they are supposed 
to be replaced by new ones of exactly the same type.  I do believe that Moss 
and others stock the right nuts.  Am I right about those facts?

Cheers
Gary

From JustBrits at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:36:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

In a message dated 10/17/2000 7:28:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Editorgary@aol.com writes:

<< Am I right about those facts? >>

A B S O L U T L Y, Gary.  I posted a note just a little while ago.

NEVER re-use.  PERIOD !!  

Cheers.............

          Ed

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT
Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?

We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young 
friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking 
MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We 
live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these 
cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in 
the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one 
through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that 
youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the 
door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:01:00 +1100
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

G'day

Having steel wheels on the BN3 I no longer have that sort of problem,
however
way back when I owned a BN1 I had all sorts of difficulties with wheels
seeking greener pastures.

I lost count of the number of four stud rear bearing carriers (hubs) I went
through. As Gary said the nuts were conical and were split at the end. The
purpose of the split was to lock the nut onto the stud. Great idea during
the
early 1950s but long since served its usefulness in the 1970s when I had the
car.

What would happen was that the nut would come loose and then extra strain
would be applied on the stud causing it to come loose and eventually pull
out
of the hub or break. 

The most uncomfortable experience was when I was all dressed to impress on a
Friday night. I had once again repaired one of the rear hubs the night
before
and was on the way to the pub when the RHS rear wheel complete with spline,
hub and axle decided to play with the traffic going in the opposite
direction.
My mechanical skills have improved a little since then.

As far as I could work out the studs were originally just pressed into place
and its end beaten with some form of mechanical hammer. So a number of us
had
new studs and nuts made and the studs well and truly welded into the hubs.
No
longer any problem and I have not heard of it happening since.

As they say. "Keep Your Nuts Tight."

Regards

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1

>>> Editorgary@aol.com 18/10/00 11:23:29 >>>


In a message dated 10/17/00 12:39:40 PM, prattri@email.msn.com writes:

<< The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical

on
one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional surface
area to prevent them for loosing. >>

Just so I'm sure I understand what we're talking about -- these aren't
really 
"lug nuts," are they? Carlos's car had center-lock wheels and these nuts are

the ones that held the hubs on.  I always think of "lug nuts" as those used 
to hold a wheel onto a hub.

The correct original nuts were "slit nuts" with little slits around the 
circumference. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the slits?  I have been
told 
that these nuts are intended to be single use; once removed they are
supposed 
to be replaced by new ones of exactly the same type.  I do believe that Moss

and others stock the right nuts.  Am I right about those facts?

Cheers
Gary


From "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:05:52 -0400
Subject: RE: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Gary,
My take is that the nuts that hold the hub to the axle are lug nuts. Their
function is to centralize the hub to the axle since there is no other
locating fit. This is the same design  used on current cars and trucks. As
the nut is tighten the hub or tire rim is forced to a concentric position to
the axle. If the slits indicate they are self locking, than they should be
replaced after each use. However, I would replace them with non-slitted lug
nut of the proper type and reuse them. Every time I went to change a tire, I
usually have to stand on the lug wrench to get the lug nut loose. I also
never check the lug nut on my Ford except when I replace tires(60000
miles)and I would guess not many on this list do either. The design of the
lug nut/ stud system is  very reliable--If they are tightened properly.
Richard



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 8:23 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/17/00 12:39:40 PM, prattri@email.msn.com writes:
>
> << The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They
> are conical
> on
> one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide
> additional surface
> area to prevent them for loosing. >>
>
> Just so I'm sure I understand what we're talking about -- these
> aren't really
> "lug nuts," are they? Carlos's car had center-lock wheels and
> these nuts are
> the ones that held the hubs on.  I always think of "lug nuts" as
> those used
> to hold a wheel onto a hub.
>
> The correct original nuts were "slit nuts" with little slits around the
> circumference. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the slits?  I
> have been told
> that these nuts are intended to be single use; once removed they
> are supposed
> to be replaced by new ones of exactly the same type.  I do
> believe that Moss
> and others stock the right nuts.  Am I right about those facts?
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>



From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:03:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

On Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

<<  We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking
MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We
live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these
cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in
the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one
through the informal network? Any thoughts, anyone? >>

If there has literally not been even an MGB in the SF area newspapers for
YEARS, then we truly are at The End of Time.  Peter Egan call your office.

Actually the old reliable "Sunday ads" are a bit passe as a way to find
special interest cars.  It was different "back then" when they were listed
in alphabetical order right alongside the Fords, Chryslers (Austin-Healeys
always came right after the Audis), etc., but when they created the separate
"Antique and Collector Cars" classification and "our cars" started showing
up there exclusively, that should have told us all something right then and
there.

Nowadays Hemmings Motor News is probably the best single print resource for
finding cars for sale, and obviously the Internet opens all kinds of
possibilities.  Try these:

http://www.traderonline.com

http://www.hemmings.com

I just ran a search on traderonline for MGs built 1963-1980 (covers the B)
in California and got 67 hits.  Of course some of those are MGB-GTs and some
are Midgets, and not all will be in northern California, but it's still a
lot of cars that are not too very far from your area.

The search for Triumphs turned up 60 in California alone (most were TR6s),
although exactly none were GT6s.  (For those who may not know the GT6, it is
basically a fastback coupe version of the Spitfire with a six-cylinder.) 
Really it's a pretty rare animal and a TR6 would be a much better choice for
several good reasons.  Decent examples of the TR6 can be had in the
$5000-7000 range.

Lastly, the search for Jensen-Healeys showed eight currently for sale in
California.

The Hemmings website also allows you to do searches.  

Another place on the web -- perhaps the best place to start -- is:

http://www.buyclassiccars.com

They list the top 12 websites for car ads.  Hemmings and Traderonline are
listed there, and those are the two that have always been the most
productive for me for British cars, but there are other possibilities. 
Happy hunting.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
BN2
BN2
AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org

















_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:23:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

Another place to look is in the evil Ebay.  There is a nice 1974 B for sale
in Loma Linda (where ever that is).  Also have seen others pop up on occasion.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=464047409&;
r=0&t=0

======================================

At 07:03 PM 10/17/00 -0700, Reid Trummel wrote:
>
>On Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
><<  We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
>friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking
>MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We
>live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these
>cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in
>the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one
>through the informal network? Any thoughts, anyone? >>
>
>If there has literally not been even an MGB in the SF area newspapers for
>YEARS, then we truly are at The End of Time.  Peter Egan call your office.
>
>Actually the old reliable "Sunday ads" are a bit passe as a way to find
>special interest cars.  It was different "back then" when they were listed
>in alphabetical order right alongside the Fords, Chryslers (Austin-Healeys
>always came right after the Audis), etc., but when they created the separate
>"Antique and Collector Cars" classification and "our cars" started showing
>up there exclusively, that should have told us all something right then and
>there.
>
>Nowadays Hemmings Motor News is probably the best single print resource for
>finding cars for sale, and obviously the Internet opens all kinds of
>possibilities.  Try these:
>
>http://www.traderonline.com
>
>http://www.hemmings.com
>
>I just ran a search on traderonline for MGs built 1963-1980 (covers the B)
>in California and got 67 hits.  Of course some of those are MGB-GTs and some
>are Midgets, and not all will be in northern California, but it's still a
>lot of cars that are not too very far from your area.
>
>The search for Triumphs turned up 60 in California alone (most were TR6s),
>although exactly none were GT6s.  (For those who may not know the GT6, it is
>basically a fastback coupe version of the Spitfire with a six-cylinder.) 
>Really it's a pretty rare animal and a TR6 would be a much better choice for
>several good reasons.  Decent examples of the TR6 can be had in the
>$5000-7000 range.
>
>Lastly, the search for Jensen-Healeys showed eight currently for sale in
>California.
>
>The Hemmings website also allows you to do searches.  
>
>Another place on the web -- perhaps the best place to start -- is:
>
>http://www.buyclassiccars.com
>
>They list the top 12 websites for car ads.  Hemmings and Traderonline are
>listed there, and those are the two that have always been the most
>productive for me for British cars, but there are other possibilities. 
>Happy hunting.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>BN2
>BN2
>AN5 "Lucky"
>http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________
>Say Bye to Slow Internet!
>http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>


From Bill Holt <lbcholt at one.net>
Date:   Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:45:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

I don't know about newspaper ads but there are LOTS of cars advertised for
sale on the Internet, particularly for sale in California.  I am not a car
dealer or anything.  I just like cars and I cruise the Internet frequently
looking for cars for sale.  Attached are a few good sites that I've found:


http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/adsearchprocess.html

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/class/USACFS.html

http://www.vtr.org/ads/index.html

So, in my opinion there are lots of decent fun cars out there for
$5,000-$7,000.  Many cost LESS than $5,000.  

If you need any more Internet site suggestions, just let me know and I'll
refer them to you off the list.

Bill Holt
Ft. Mitchell, KY
1973 black tulip MGB (LOTS of fun for $6,000 . . . . and only 66,000
original miles)

At 09:13 PM 10/17/00 -0400, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young 
>friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking 
>MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We 
>live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these 
>cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in 
>the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one 
>through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that 
>youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the 
>door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
> 

From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 19:55:36 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

"The design of the lug nut/stud system is  very reliable--If they are
tightened properly."  I was told 60 lbs and that's what mine are....If
someone could verify that, it would be a good starting point for everyone
else. As a matter of point all wheels on all cars have a suggested torque
setting for the lug nuts but I know few people that actually do it. I
believe mags are more critical than steel wheels, perhaps someone could
elaborate on that...Neil

----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Pratt" <prattri@email.msn.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:05 PM
Subject: RE: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
> Gary,
> My take is that the nuts that hold the hub to the axle are lug nuts. Their
> function is to centralize the hub to the axle since there is no other
> locating fit. This is the same design  used on current cars and trucks. As
> the nut is tighten the hub or tire rim is forced to a concentric position
to
> the axle. If the slits indicate they are self locking, than they should be
> replaced after each use. However, I would replace them with non-slitted
lug
> nut of the proper type and reuse them. Every time I went to change a tire,
I
> usually have to stand on the lug wrench to get the lug nut loose. I also
> never check the lug nut on my Ford except when I replace tires(60000
> miles)and I would guess not many on this list do either. The design of the
> lug nut/ stud system is  very reliable--If they are tightened properly.
> Richard
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 8:23 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/17/00 12:39:40 PM, prattri@email.msn.com writes:
> >
> > << The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They
> > are conical
> > on
> > one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide
> > additional surface
> > area to prevent them for loosing. >>
> >
> > Just so I'm sure I understand what we're talking about -- these
> > aren't really
> > "lug nuts," are they? Carlos's car had center-lock wheels and
> > these nuts are
> > the ones that held the hubs on.  I always think of "lug nuts" as
> > those used
> > to hold a wheel onto a hub.
> >
> > The correct original nuts were "slit nuts" with little slits around the
> > circumference. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the slits?  I
> > have been told
> > that these nuts are intended to be single use; once removed they
> > are supposed
> > to be replaced by new ones of exactly the same type.  I do
> > believe that Moss
> > and others stock the right nuts.  Am I right about those facts?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
>
>
>


From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:04:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


Carlos,
I recently encountered almost the same thing. I went out for an ice 
cream cone one evening. At low speed <25 MPH i heard a distinct 
problem, over 30 MPH I could not hear the noise. I only went about 3/4 
of a mile before stopping to check the situation. I discovered 
movement in the right rear wheel, that did not occur in the opposite 
wheel. A slow drive home, jacked the car up, removed the wheel and 
discovered 4 of 5 nuts loose on the studs holding the spline on the 
drum. I was able to remove all 4 by hand! I replaced the spline and 
the lug nuts using locktite. But the important point is that I 
noticed no noise or wobble at higher than 30 MPH. Had I taken off 
quickly I could have encountered a similar fate. 
Check your wheels regularly!
Bob

CCruz@tribune.com wrote:
> 
> Good morning Listers,
> 
> Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I appreciate
> your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more details.  I
> will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
> 
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> 
> Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> 
> A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose, stripping most of
> the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the wheel some
> play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub separated
> from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
> fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
> still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping the lug nuts
> between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of yet, for that
> matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to inspect
> the car tomorrow.
> 
> Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected the wheels
> before setting out?
> Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might have found?
> 
> A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or prior
> to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
> check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also inspect the
> brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of leaks.  In
> the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and shocks.  I
> tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't take a lot
> of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and I'm ready to
> go.
> 
> Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> 
> A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now that the car is
> home on jacks.
> 
> Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced vibration, throttle
> steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> 
> A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I was wearing
> didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car didn't
> vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment I took my
> foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
> quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable signs.  The
> drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
> noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.  Up
> until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or steering left to
> pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
> drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
> away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> 
> Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug nuts failed
> allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> 
> A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
> severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a smooth piece
> of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on the stud.  I
> believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight until the last
> moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
> broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured or
> broke.

From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:28:19 -0400
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Neil and folks,
My usual torque spec for those nuts is "tight as it will go plus half a
turn," but I think 60 lbs. is a fine number.  Lock Tite is a good idea,
anti-seize a strict no-no.

Conscientious tire and repair shops use special lug nut torquing
sockets that are selected according to the specification for the car
or wheel undergoing wheel R&R.  Slap-dash flatraters use standard impact
wrenches and don't give a fat rat's ass.  Next time you go in
for new tires ask to see their range of torquing sockets.  If you get a
blank stare take your business elsewhere.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

----- Original Message -----
From: Neil Trelenberg <neilberg@telus.net>
To: Richard E. Pratt <prattri@email.msn.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


>
> "The design of the lug nut/stud system is  very reliable--If they are
> tightened properly."  I was told 60 lbs and that's what mine are....If
> someone could verify that, it would be a good starting point for everyone
> else. As a matter of point all wheels on all cars have a suggested torque
> setting for the lug nuts but I know few people that actually do it. I
> believe mags are more critical than steel wheels, perhaps someone could
> elaborate on that...Neil



From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:35:43 -0700
Subject: Parts wanted - Water pump

Sorry to bomb the List but I am trying to find some miscellaneous parts for 
my 62BT7 with the usual 3000 engine, and hope someone can help me.

Does anyone know if there is water pump rebuild kit?
Are all the bearings available from bearing suppliers?

TIA
62' bt7, very thirsty.






From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:16:05 -0700
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

At 09:28 PM 10/17/2000 , you wrote:

>Neil and folks,
>My usual torque spec for those nuts is "tight as it will go plus half a
>turn," but I think 60 lbs. is a fine number.  Lock Tite is a good idea,
>anti-seize a strict no-no.
>
>Conscientious tire and repair shops use special lug nut torquing
>sockets that are selected according to the specification for the car
>or wheel undergoing wheel R&R.  Slap-dash flatraters use standard impact
>wrenches and don't give a fat rat's ass.  Next time you go in
>for new tires ask to see their range of torquing sockets.  If you get a
>blank stare take your business elsewhere.
>Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks

--------------
Can you please elaborate on these special lug nut sockets Doug? I've never 
heard of them. What exactly makes them "tuned" to the specs of the car and 
wheel?

thnx
bk


From James Lessman <jmslsm at peoplepc.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 05:49:49 -0400
Subject: 58 mga

A friend has inherited a 58 MGA roadster. The car has been stored inside
since 72, it is complete and runs but needs work. Located in
Cleveland,Ohio area. Would someone please pass this on to the MG list.

Thanks,     JGL  61 bt7
no financial interest
etc...

For more info :  coalrunner@peoplepc.com



From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:09:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

I think perhaps you are living in the wrong place Gary.  I see these things 
for sale in the paper here all the time.  I was recently looking at the paper 
and saw the traditional $1500 mgb "with parts car" for sale a couple of weeks 
ago. (I fought hard with myself to keep from calling on that one)  I am 
always seeing the $3000 "restored" MGB's for sale. here as well.  My brother 
just bought a $700 MGBGT, and I picked up a rear hatchback at the junk yard 
for it this last weekend.  

Perhaps the california folks just keep their cars.  All that sunshine and 
nice weather will make you do crazy things like that.

Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC

In a message dated Tue, 17 Oct 2000  8:44:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Editorgary@aol.com writes:

<< 
We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young 
friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking 
MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We 
live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these 
cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in 
the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one 
through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that 
youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the 
door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
 >>



From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 07:16:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Where have all the used cars gone?

I would agree that there are lots of cars out there available and people
interested in finding them can.  But while unrestored, unmolested cars still
exist, there is a definate change in the availability of cars.  I've worked
here at Moss for over 10 years and one of the things I've noticed is how few
people call who have early '70s MGBs and Midgets.  Rubber bumpers abound but
chrome bumpers are very scarce.  The fact is that when I started here in
1990 there was a huge business in shipping cars overseas.  That's where they
all went.  There were guys sending 50 or 60 cars a month over there.
Everything from Gullwing Mercedes to MG Midgets.  I, for one, was happy when
the big boom ended and cars stopped leaving.  The prices of these cars have
come back down to earth and now people can afford them again.  I love
hearing from young people who have just bought a new toy and are fixing it
up.  

Jonathan Lane

-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 5:40 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?



We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young 
friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking

MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We 
live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these 
cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in 
the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one

through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that 
youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the 
door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 07:41:54 -0700
Subject: RE: Where have all the used cars gone?

I'm in Jackson, Mississippi and know of several MGBs and TR6s and even a Healey 
for sale right now.  Prices on unrestored MGBs seem to run $4,000 to $6,000 
generally.  I guess it just depends on supply and demand.  As far as "getting 
in the loop", we all know that the network of a club is a valuable asset.

John Noblin
65 BJ8
Jackson, Mississippi

>From: Editorgary@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT
>Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?
>To: healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
>Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
>
>
>We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young 
>friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking 
>MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We 
>live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these 
>cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in 
>the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one 
>through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that 
>youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the 
>door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson




------------------------------------------------------------
--== Sent via Deja.com <a href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> 
==--
Before you buy. 



From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:10:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

Got my BN1 on Ebay and feel that I paid a very fair price.

George
BN1-L/157155
----- Original Message -----
From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
To: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?


>
> Another place to look is in the evil Ebay.  There is a nice 1974 B for
sale
> in Loma Linda (where ever that is).  Also have seen others pop up on
occasion.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=464047409&;
> r=0&t=0
>
> ======================================
>
> At 07:03 PM 10/17/00 -0700, Reid Trummel wrote:
> >
> >On Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> >
> ><<  We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a
young
> >friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's
thinking
> >MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one.
We
> >live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of
these
> >cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live
in
> >the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find
one
> >through the informal network? Any thoughts, anyone? >>
> >
> >If there has literally not been even an MGB in the SF area newspapers for
> >YEARS, then we truly are at The End of Time.  Peter Egan call your
office.
> >
> >Actually the old reliable "Sunday ads" are a bit passe as a way to find
> >special interest cars.  It was different "back then" when they were
listed
> >in alphabetical order right alongside the Fords, Chryslers
(Austin-Healeys
> >always came right after the Audis), etc., but when they created the
separate
> >"Antique and Collector Cars" classification and "our cars" started
showing
> >up there exclusively, that should have told us all something right then
and
> >there.
> >
> >Nowadays Hemmings Motor News is probably the best single print resource
for
> >finding cars for sale, and obviously the Internet opens all kinds of
> >possibilities.  Try these:
> >
> >http://www.traderonline.com
> >
> >http://www.hemmings.com
> >
> >I just ran a search on traderonline for MGs built 1963-1980 (covers the
B)
> >in California and got 67 hits.  Of course some of those are MGB-GTs and
some
> >are Midgets, and not all will be in northern California, but it's still a
> >lot of cars that are not too very far from your area.
> >
> >The search for Triumphs turned up 60 in California alone (most were
TR6s),
> >although exactly none were GT6s.  (For those who may not know the GT6, it
is
> >basically a fastback coupe version of the Spitfire with a six-cylinder.)
> >Really it's a pretty rare animal and a TR6 would be a much better choice
for
> >several good reasons.  Decent examples of the TR6 can be had in the
> >$5000-7000 range.
> >
> >Lastly, the search for Jensen-Healeys showed eight currently for sale in
> >California.
> >
> >The Hemmings website also allows you to do searches.
> >
> >Another place on the web -- perhaps the best place to start -- is:
> >
> >http://www.buyclassiccars.com
> >
> >They list the top 12 websites for car ads.  Hemmings and Traderonline are
> >listed there, and those are the two that have always been the most
> >productive for me for British cars, but there are other possibilities.
> >Happy hunting.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Reid Trummel
> >Tampa, Florida
> >BN2
> >BN2
> >AN5 "Lucky"
> >http://www.healey.org
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________
> >Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> >http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
> >
> >


From Tom Dugger <tdugger at ibm.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:11:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

The Birmingham News has a antique and classic section.
Someone has been advertising a "1967 Jensen Healey" for about a month now.
I haven't had the time to actually call about this obviously rare and valuable
machine.  lol
There have been several ads for Tri, MG, a v-12 Jag (argh! 14500.)
They don't seem to run for long, so the market must be strong for
reasonably priced, good condition autos.
tom  bn2

Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
> friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking
> MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We
> live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these
> cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in
> the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one
> through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that
> youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the
> door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson


From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:01:36 -0400
Subject: Fw: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


> Bill,
>I am not enough of a physicist to give a technical explanation of their
exact function.  These sockets
> are 8 - 10 inches long and are made of some special steel that tends to
vary
> somewhat in diameter depending upon the torque to be exerted.  At any
rate,
> these drivers are built to torque only to a constant, specific amount no
> matter whether the impact wrench they are on is running at an air pressure
> of 75 psi or 175 psi.  They come with vehicle application charts that
> specify which socket to use for a particular car or wheel, and were
> developed to give shops an easy way to torque wheels without the hassle of
> using an actual torque wrench.  As you know, over-torquing wheels can
> distort the wheel as well as the rotor or drum on some cars, in addition
to
> making the wheel difficult to change on the side of the road.  It's been
my
> observation that shops using this kind of equipment tend to be more
> conscientious in their repairs.  If anyone would like to see a picture of
these torquing sockets please contact me off-list.
> Doug, 18G
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 3:16 AM
> Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> >
> > --------------
> > Can you please elaborate on these special lug nut sockets Doug? I've
never
> > heard of them. What exactly makes them "tuned" to the specs of the car
and
> > wheel?
> >
> > thnx
> > bk
> >
>


From Tomdamit at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:07:13 EDT
Subject: 8 issues of Safety Fast for sale

I have 8 issues of the BMC factory publication, "Safety Fast" for sale.  They 
are Feb./Mar; April; June; August; October of 1960 and January; March; April 
of 1961.  They are in excellent condition with much Healey info, some of 
which I have not seen published elsewhere.  $40.00 US plus $5.00 shipping in 
US or CN.  Email me off list please with any interest or I would be happy to 
answer any questions about the publications on list for general info to the 
list.

Tom Ware
Riverside, CA

From timoran at ticnet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 17:49:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


Check this site

http://www.ntxtools.com/braketirewheel/tirewheel/atq0321.htm

****************************************************




Mr. Finespanner writes:

> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 12:48 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> 
> 
> > Bill,
> >I am not enough of a physicist to give a technical explanation of their
> exact function.  These sockets
> > are 8 - 10 inches long and are made of some special steel that tends to
> vary
> > somewhat in diameter depending upon the torque to be exerted.  At any
> rate,
> > these drivers are built to torque only to a constant, specific amount no
> > matter whether the impact wrench they are on is running at an air pressure
> > of 75 psi or 175 psi.  They come with vehicle application charts that
> > specify which socket to use for a particular car or wheel, and were
> > developed to give shops an easy way to torque wheels without the hassle of
> > using an actual torque wrench.  As you know, over-torquing wheels can
> > distort the wheel as well as the rotor or drum on some cars, in addition
> to
> > making the wheel difficult to change on the side of the road.  It's been
> my
> > observation that shops using this kind of equipment tend to be more
> > conscientious in their repairs.  If anyone would like to see a picture of
> these torquing sockets please contact me off-list.
> > Doug, 18G
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 3:16 AM
> > Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> > >
> > > --------------
> > > Can you please elaborate on these special lug nut sockets Doug? I've
> never
> > > heard of them. What exactly makes them "tuned" to the specs of the car
> and
> > > wheel?
> > >
> > > thnx
> > > bk
> > >
> >
> 

From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:50:57 EDT
Subject: rear crankshaft seal conversion BN1

Does anyone have the instructions for the rear main seal conversion from 
Denis Welch? My machinist has done the work, but lost the instruction sheet. 
I have a few questions for someone if they could contact me or scan a copy 
and send it.
Thanks in advance,
John Wright

From "JKCS" <c.schumann at snafu.de>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 23:48:36 +0200
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

Most of these cars went to Europe in the early ninties and I
know from a classic car dealer friend of mine based in San
Rafael that finding MGBs, TR6s, TR4s and Fiat Spiders on the
West Coast has become rather difficult (not to speak of
Austin-Healeys...). Today, $ 7,000 buy a MGB Conv. in very
good condition over here in Germany. Considering the strong
Dollar against the Euro maybe its time for you guys to start
importing them again like in the eighties when all those
Porsches, Mercs and BMWs went over to the US?

Cheers,
Christoph Schumann
Hamburg, Germany
'54 BN1
'79 911
'90 560 SE

----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 2:40 AM
Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?


>
> We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby --
I've got a young
> friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car"
and he's thinking
> MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how
to find one. We
> live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't
seen one of these
> cars advertised in the local papers for literally years.
Do we just live in
> the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a
local club to find one
> through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then
the reason that
> youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they
can't find the
> door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>


From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 15:14:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Austin-Healey Wanted

Hi all,

Bob Jordan of Westchester County, NY (about 45 miles north of NYC, near
Connecticut) is looking for a big Healey to purchase.  Please contact him
directly with any leads (his email address is CC above).  Basically he's
looking for:

-- Preferably a BJ8, but does not have to be.

-- He can travel to the Midwest or South to the Carolinas.  However, he also
said, "if the right car is in California, I'd ship it East," meaning there's
no strict maximum distance within the USA.

-- He's looking for "just a good, mechanically sound Healey that I can have
fun in at weekend shows and not be embarrassed."

-- Price range of "the 'teens or low 20's."

Thanks in advance for any help, and again, please contact Bob directly via
email.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
BN2
BN2
AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org











_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "shutchings at look.ca" <shutchings@look.ca>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 20:40:58 -0400
Subject: Hub oil seals and angles

After doing some work on the car today, I was dismayed to find diff oil
leaking out of one of the back hubs, down onto the wheel (...and past the
brakes, I know!).....after I'd had time to think about it, I realized that
I'd jacked the other side up
higher than usual, and taken a while to get around to the other side, so the
leak seemed to develop as a result of  the 
angle of the axle, and more than the usual volume of oil flowing to that
side. I've wiped it off for now, and see how it looks in the morning, but
I'm hoping that it will stop leaking when kept level for a while. Anyone had
this happen? 
Hoping I don't have to pull the hub, Stephen

From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:15:11 EDT
Subject: Rear crankshaft seal conversion pt2

Thanks to John Roper, Chris and Ed for their help. I have what I need to 
complete the installation. Many thanks,
John Wright
BN1
BN6

From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:49:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

How about a solid low milage  Era 2500 M in that price range . or 56 AH with 
289 Ford installed. Forty others to pick from here too mostly  Triumph projects 
 all stored indoors.
 T.R.

John Noblin wrote:

> I'm in Jackson, Mississippi and know of several MGBs and TR6s and even a 
>Healey for sale right now.  Prices on unrestored MGBs seem to run $4,000 to 
>$6,000 generally.  I guess it just depends on supply and demand.  As far as 
>"getting in the loop", we all know that the network of a club is a valuable 
>asset.
>
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, Mississippi
>
> >From: Editorgary@aol.com
> >Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT
> >Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
> >Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> >
> >
> >We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
> >friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's thinking
> >MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one. We
> >live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of these
> >cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live in
> >the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find one
> >through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason that
> >youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the
> >door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> --== Sent via Deja.com <a 
>href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> ==--
> Before you buy.


From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:38:27 -0700
Subject: Fw: (no subject)


)


> Male Chauvinistic Jokes
> 
> 
>                      1. Why did God create woman?
>                      To carry semen from the bedroom to the
>                      toilet.
> 
>                      2. If the dove is the bird of peace, what is
>                      the bird of true love?
>                      The swallow
> 
>                      3. How do you annoy your girlfriend during
>                      sex?
>                      Phone her.
> 
>                      4. Why do women fake orgasms?
>                      Because they think men care.
> 
>                      5. What is the definition of "making love"?
>                      Something a woman does while a guy is
>                      fucking her.
> 
>                      6. What should you do if your girlfriend
>                      starts smoking?
>                      Slow down and use a lubricant.
> 
>                      7. What's the difference between oral sex
>                      and anal sex?
>                      Oral sex makes your day, anal sex makes
>                      your hole weak [whole week..!]
> 
>                      8. How many male sexists does it take to
>                      change a light bulb?
>                      None, let the bitch cook in the dark.
> 
>                      9. Why does the bride always wear white?
>                      Because it is good for the dishwasher to
>                      match the stove and refrigerator..
> 
>                      10. What do you say to a woman with 2
>                      black eyes?
>                      Nothing, she's been told twice already.
> 
>                      11. How many men does it take to open a
>                      beer?
>                      None. It should be opened by the time she
>                      brings it in.
> 
>                      12. If your wife keeps coming out of the
>                      kitchen to nag at you, what have you done
>                      wrong?
>                      Made her chain too long.
> 
>                      13. How are fat girls and mopeds alike?
>                      They're both fun to ride until your friends
>                      find out.
> 
>                      14. How is a woman like a condom?
>                      Both of them spend more time in your
>                      wallet than on your dick.
> 
>                      15. Why does a bride smile when she walks
>                      up the aisle?
>                      She knows she's given her last blow job.
> 
>                      16. What's the difference between a bitch
>                      and a whore?
>                      A whore sleeps with everyone at the party
>                      and a bitch sleeps with everyone at the
>                      party except you.
> 
>                      17. What's the difference between love,
>                      true love, and showing off?
>                      Spitting, swallowing, and gargling.
> 
>                      18. Do you know why they call it the
>                      Wonder Bra?
>                      When you take it off you wonder where her
>                      tits went.
> 
>                      19. How do you make 5 pounds of fat look
>                      good?
>                      Put a nipple on it.
> 


From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:20:31 +0200
Subject:  RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

"Swedish Spring Steel. The BEST raw materials, specially heat-treated, make
AccuTorq the most accurate torque socket in the world."

Wow ! Swedish steel, must be damn good !  :)

Lennart Nystedt
Stockholm, Sweden
AN6, BN1

> -----Original Message-----
> From: timoran@ticnet.com [mailto:timoran@ticnet.com]
> Sent: den 18 oktober 2000 19:49
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fw: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check this site
> 
> http://www.ntxtools.com/braketirewheel/tirewheel/atq0321.htm
> 
> ****************************************************
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Finespanner writes:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mr. Finespanner <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net>
> > To: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 12:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> > 
> > 
> > > Bill,
> > >I am not enough of a physicist to give a technical 
> explanation of their
> > exact function.  These sockets
> > > are 8 - 10 inches long and are made of some special steel 
> that tends to
> > vary
> > > somewhat in diameter depending upon the torque to be 
> exerted.  At any
> > rate,
> > > these drivers are built to torque only to a constant, 
> specific amount no
> > > matter whether the impact wrench they are on is running 
> at an air pressure
> > > of 75 psi or 175 psi.  They come with vehicle application 
> charts that
> > > specify which socket to use for a particular car or 
> wheel, and were
> > > developed to give shops an easy way to torque wheels 
> without the hassle of
> > > using an actual torque wrench.  As you know, 
> over-torquing wheels can
> > > distort the wheel as well as the rotor or drum on some 
> cars, in addition
> > to
> > > making the wheel difficult to change on the side of the 
> road.  It's been
> > my
> > > observation that shops using this kind of equipment tend 
> to be more
> > > conscientious in their repairs.  If anyone would like to 
> see a picture of
> > these torquing sockets please contact me off-list.
> > > Doug, 18G
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 3:16 AM
> > > Subject: Re: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
> > > >
> > > > --------------
> > > > Can you please elaborate on these special lug nut 
> sockets Doug? I've
> > never
> > > > heard of them. What exactly makes them "tuned" to the 
> specs of the car
> > and
> > > > wheel?
> > > >
> > > > thnx
> > > > bk
> > > >
> > >
> > 
> 

From "Alistair.Clinton" <ukracingcastings at btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:23:12 +0100
Subject: Fw: Re Flywheels




I caught part of the lead about breaking aluminium flywheels. Just like to
stick in my two penneth!
We are a foundry (magnesium & aluminium sand castings for historic & modern
motorsport) and we make aluminium flywheels for Triumph TR4's and/or TR6's.
I am reliable informed that these would be similar to those breaking in size
and stress etc. We have made them for some 5 years and never heard of a
single one breaking using aluminium LM25-TF (you will have to look up the
corresponding american designation)

However we do fairly regularly have new customers coming to us with parts
for quote. When we quote in Lm25-TF often they ask do we have anything
stronger as previous suppliers castings in 'lm25tf' break.

LM25-TF is very strong general purpose alloy. Invariably we find our LM25-TF
does not break
Why ? because it is Lm25-TF (i.e. within its specification)

Many non-specialised  foundries will melt and remelt their own scrap returns
and looses its magnesium content and becomes brittle. I.e. buying 'cheap'
castings means 'cheap' manufacturing methods. (specialising in motorsport
each melt we cast  is 70-80% new ingots each melt is therefore always well
with alloy spec parameters)

As a suggestion to the listers with breaking flywheels a possiblity may be
the alloy and/or poor foundry practices.

Regards
Alistair Clinton
P.S. Anyone need magnesium or aluminium sand casting components from a
quality foundry? (English naturally ;)   )

UK Racing Castings
Unit 1-2 Thorndale Business Park
Argent Road
Queenborough
Kent ME11 5JP
United Kingdom
Telephone +44 (0)1795 585454
Fax +44 (0)1795 585488


From "JISah102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:55:19 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Kirk:   The next time you post an offensive non-Healey note on the list,
Please indicate something like "vulgar Smut" in the subject box so I can
delete it before opening it.

Thanks

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <Tomdamit@aol.com>; REID TRUMMEL <reidt@healey.org>; Paul Turner
<retrdpet@inreach.com>; John Hunt <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>; jim albeck
<bjate@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; Hank&Kris
<thehallmarks@earthlink.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; Coe Coleman
<ccoleman@nettally.com>; carol goldsworth <WhoCares56@aol.com>; Art Hill
<WAHILL@aol.com>; Absolutely British <abritish@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 12:38 AM
Subject: Fw: (no subject)


>
>
> )
>
>
> > Male Chauvinistic Jokes
> >
> >
> >                      1. Why did God create woman?
> >                      To carry semen from the bedroom to the
> >                      toilet.
> >
> >                      2. If the dove is the bird of peace, what is
> >                      the bird of true love?
> >                      The swallow
> >
> >                      3. How do you annoy your girlfriend during
> >                      sex?
> >                      Phone her.
> >
> >                      4. Why do women fake orgasms?
> >                      Because they think men care.
> >
> >                      5. What is the definition of "making love"?
> >                      Something a woman does while a guy is
> >                      fucking her.
> >
> >                      6. What should you do if your girlfriend
> >                      starts smoking?
> >                      Slow down and use a lubricant.
> >
> >                      7. What's the difference between oral sex
> >                      and anal sex?
> >                      Oral sex makes your day, anal sex makes
> >                      your hole weak [whole week..!]
> >
> >                      8. How many male sexists does it take to
> >                      change a light bulb?
> >                      None, let the bitch cook in the dark.
> >
> >                      9. Why does the bride always wear white?
> >                      Because it is good for the dishwasher to
> >                      match the stove and refrigerator..
> >
> >                      10. What do you say to a woman with 2
> >                      black eyes?
> >                      Nothing, she's been told twice already.
> >
> >                      11. How many men does it take to open a
> >                      beer?
> >                      None. It should be opened by the time she
> >                      brings it in.
> >
> >                      12. If your wife keeps coming out of the
> >                      kitchen to nag at you, what have you done
> >                      wrong?
> >                      Made her chain too long.
> >
> >                      13. How are fat girls and mopeds alike?
> >                      They're both fun to ride until your friends
> >                      find out.
> >
> >                      14. How is a woman like a condom?
> >                      Both of them spend more time in your
> >                      wallet than on your dick.
> >
> >                      15. Why does a bride smile when she walks
> >                      up the aisle?
> >                      She knows she's given her last blow job.
> >
> >                      16. What's the difference between a bitch
> >                      and a whore?
> >                      A whore sleeps with everyone at the party
> >                      and a bitch sleeps with everyone at the
> >                      party except you.
> >
> >                      17. What's the difference between love,
> >                      true love, and showing off?
> >                      Spitting, swallowing, and gargling.
> >
> >                      18. Do you know why they call it the
> >                      Wonder Bra?
> >                      When you take it off you wonder where her
> >                      tits went.
> >
> >                      19. How do you make 5 pounds of fat look
> >                      good?
> >                      Put a nipple on it.
> >
>


From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:51:50 -0500
Subject: Screensaver to save Austin Healey Pictures.

Hey gang:  In case any of you are interested in displaying Austin Healey
Pictures as a screensaver or background (wallpaper), there is a neat
screensaver program at www.webshots.com that will let you put pictures from
your own files in and use them as screensavers.
Just a free hint to those interested.  (no other interest in this).

Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.


From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:49:31 +0800
Subject: UK transport

Hi listers

I am trying to arrange some internal transport in the UK for some Healey
parts but having great difficulty.
If any of the UK resident listers could assist I would greatly appreciate
it.
You can contact me off list.


TIA

John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration. #12 built March 1959



From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:46:17 +0800
Subject: RHD 100-6 or early BT7 choke cable setup

Hi listers

If someone out there has an original RHD 100-6 or very early 3000 I need
some help in setting up my choke cable. I have set it up the way it is shown
in the parts manual but it doesn't works very well. I obviously don't  have
the correct idea.

You can contact me off list as not many on the list would be interested in
this obscure detail.(trivea).

TIA

John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 in restoration. #12 built March 1959


From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 07:16:36 -0700
Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"

My sincerest apology to the list and all others for this post.

Yesterday I was in a rush and must have used the wrong automated mailing
list.

Kirk Kvam

----- Original Message -----
From: "JISah102" <ah102@home.com>
To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 5:55 AM
Subject: Re: (no subject)


> Kirk:   The next time you post an offensive non-Healey note on the list,
> Please indicate something like "vulgar Smut" in the subject box so I can
> delete it before opening it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: <Tomdamit@aol.com>; REID TRUMMEL <reidt@healey.org>; Paul Turner
> <retrdpet@inreach.com>; John Hunt <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>; jim albeck
> <bjate@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; Hank&Kris
> <thehallmarks@earthlink.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; Coe Coleman
> <ccoleman@nettally.com>; carol goldsworth <WhoCares56@aol.com>; Art Hill
> <WAHILL@aol.com>; Absolutely British <abritish@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 12:38 AM
> Subject: Fw: (no subject)
>
>
> >
> >
> > )
> >
> >
> > > Male Chauvinistic Jokes
> > >
> > >
> > >                      1. Why did God create woman?
> > >                      To carry semen from the bedroom to the
> > >                      toilet.
> > >
> > >                      2. If the dove is the bird of peace, what is
> > >                      the bird of true love?
> > >                      The swallow
> > >
> > >                      3. How do you annoy your girlfriend during
> > >                      sex?
> > >                      Phone her.
> > >
> > >                      4. Why do women fake orgasms?
> > >                      Because they think men care.
> > >
> > >                      5. What is the definition of "making love"?
> > >                      Something a woman does while a guy is
> > >                      fucking her.
> > >
> > >                      6. What should you do if your girlfriend
> > >                      starts smoking?
> > >                      Slow down and use a lubricant.
> > >
> > >                      7. What's the difference between oral sex
> > >                      and anal sex?
> > >                      Oral sex makes your day, anal sex makes
> > >                      your hole weak [whole week..!]
> > >
> > >                      8. How many male sexists does it take to
> > >                      change a light bulb?
> > >                      None, let the bitch cook in the dark.
> > >
> > >                      9. Why does the bride always wear white?
> > >                      Because it is good for the dishwasher to
> > >                      match the stove and refrigerator..
> > >
> > >                      10. What do you say to a woman with 2
> > >                      black eyes?
> > >                      Nothing, she's been told twice already.
> > >
> > >                      11. How many men does it take to open a
> > >                      beer?
> > >                      None. It should be opened by the time she
> > >                      brings it in.
> > >
> > >                      12. If your wife keeps coming out of the
> > >                      kitchen to nag at you, what have you done
> > >                      wrong?
> > >                      Made her chain too long.
> > >
> > >                      13. How are fat girls and mopeds alike?
> > >                      They're both fun to ride until your friends
> > >                      find out.
> > >
> > >                      14. How is a woman like a condom?
> > >                      Both of them spend more time in your
> > >                      wallet than on your dick.
> > >
> > >                      15. Why does a bride smile when she walks
> > >                      up the aisle?
> > >                      She knows she's given her last blow job.
> > >
> > >                      16. What's the difference between a bitch
> > >                      and a whore?
> > >                      A whore sleeps with everyone at the party
> > >                      and a bitch sleeps with everyone at the
> > >                      party except you.
> > >
> > >                      17. What's the difference between love,
> > >                      true love, and showing off?
> > >                      Spitting, swallowing, and gargling.
> > >
> > >                      18. Do you know why they call it the
> > >                      Wonder Bra?
> > >                      When you take it off you wonder where her
> > >                      tits went.
> > >
> > >                      19. How do you make 5 pounds of fat look
> > >                      good?
> > >                      Put a nipple on it.
> > >
> >
>


From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 10:19:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: (no subject)

I like a good joke as much as anyone, but I do not think this is the place to 
post them.

Marion S. Brantley, Jr.

From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 09:45:37 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"

Apology accepted.... we all make mistakes time to time... easy enough to
do... I laughed at it.... and had the thought at the time.... Now here is a
Fella that sent something to the Wrong place on accident....

Keith 

----------
> From: kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> To: JISah102 <ah102@home.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"
> Date: Thursday, October 19, 2000 9:16 AM
> 
> 
> My sincerest apology to the list and all others for this post.
> 
> Yesterday I was in a rush and must have used the wrong automated mailing
> list.
> 
> Kirk Kvam
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JISah102" <ah102@home.com>
> To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 5:55 AM
> Subject: Re: (no subject)
> 
> 
> > Kirk:   The next time you post an offensive non-Healey note on the
list,
> > Please indicate something like "vulgar Smut" in the subject box so I
can
> > delete it before opening it.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> > To: <Tomdamit@aol.com>; REID TRUMMEL <reidt@healey.org>; Paul Turner
> > <retrdpet@inreach.com>; John Hunt <JH67HEALEY@aol.com>; jim albeck
> > <bjate@pacbell.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>; Hank&Kris
> > <thehallmarks@earthlink.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; Coe Coleman
> > <ccoleman@nettally.com>; carol goldsworth <WhoCares56@aol.com>; Art
Hill
> > <WAHILL@aol.com>; Absolutely British <abritish@earthlink.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 12:38 AM
> > Subject: Fw: (no subject)
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > )
> > >
> > >
> > > > Male Chauvinistic Jokes
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >                      1. Why did God create woman?
> > > >                      To carry semen from the bedroom to the
> > > >                      toilet.
> > > >
> > > >                      2. If the dove is the bird of peace, what is
> > > >                      the bird of true love?
> > > >                      The swallow
> > > >
> > > >                      3. How do you annoy your girlfriend during
> > > >                      sex?
> > > >                      Phone her.
> > > >
> > > >                      4. Why do women fake orgasms?
> > > >                      Because they think men care.
> > > >
> > > >                      5. What is the definition of "making love"?
> > > >                      Something a woman does while a guy is
> > > >                      fucking her.
> > > >
> > > >                      6. What should you do if your girlfriend
> > > >                      starts smoking?
> > > >                      Slow down and use a lubricant.
> > > >
> > > >                      7. What's the difference between oral sex
> > > >                      and anal sex?
> > > >                      Oral sex makes your day, anal sex makes
> > > >                      your hole weak [whole week..!]
> > > >
> > > >                      8. How many male sexists does it take to
> > > >                      change a light bulb?
> > > >                      None, let the bitch cook in the dark.
> > > >
> > > >                      9. Why does the bride always wear white?
> > > >                      Because it is good for the dishwasher to
> > > >                      match the stove and refrigerator..
> > > >
> > > >                      10. What do you say to a woman with 2
> > > >                      black eyes?
> > > >                      Nothing, she's been told twice already.
> > > >
> > > >                      11. How many men does it take to open a
> > > >                      beer?
> > > >                      None. It should be opened by the time she
> > > >                      brings it in.
> > > >
> > > >                      12. If your wife keeps coming out of the
> > > >                      kitchen to nag at you, what have you done
> > > >                      wrong?
> > > >                      Made her chain too long.
> > > >
> > > >                      13. How are fat girls and mopeds alike?
> > > >                      They're both fun to ride until your friends
> > > >                      find out.
> > > >
> > > >                      14. How is a woman like a condom?
> > > >                      Both of them spend more time in your
> > > >                      wallet than on your dick.
> > > >
> > > >                      15. Why does a bride smile when she walks
> > > >                      up the aisle?
> > > >                      She knows she's given her last blow job.
> > > >
> > > >                      16. What's the difference between a bitch
> > > >                      and a whore?
> > > >                      A whore sleeps with everyone at the party
> > > >                      and a bitch sleeps with everyone at the
> > > >                      party except you.
> > > >
> > > >                      17. What's the difference between love,
> > > >                      true love, and showing off?
> > > >                      Spitting, swallowing, and gargling.
> > > >
> > > >                      18. Do you know why they call it the
> > > >                      Wonder Bra?
> > > >                      When you take it off you wonder where her
> > > >                      tits went.
> > > >
> > > >                      19. How do you make 5 pounds of fat look
> > > >                      good?
> > > >                      Put a nipple on it.
> > > >
> > >
> >
> 

From "ghanley430" <ghanley430 at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 14:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

I live in Florida and am looking for a 66-67 BJ8. I would like it to be in
good mechanical condition with no rust, (I know I'm being picky).
If it needs paint and interior work, that's fine as that will help bring the
price down.
Anybody know of any good ones out there? I see them in Hemmings for
$14,000-$16,000, but I'd feel better if I knew of a "healey" person that
knew one personally.
I just restored a '67 MGB that is gorgeous, in fact my first time out it won
1st place at the local show for it's division. I might be interested in
selling it to help pay for the Healey.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Noblin" <jnoblin1@my-deja.com>
To: <editorgary@aol.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: Where have all the used cars gone?


>
> I'm in Jackson, Mississippi and know of several MGBs and TR6s and even a
Healey for sale right now.  Prices on unrestored MGBs seem to run $4,000 to
$6,000 generally.  I guess it just depends on supply and demand.  As far as
"getting in the loop", we all know that the network of a club is a valuable
asset.
>
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, Mississippi
>
> >From: Editorgary@aol.com
> >Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT
> >Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
> >Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> >
> >
> >We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
> >friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's
thinking
> >MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one.
We
> >live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of
these
> >cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live
in
> >the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find
one
> >through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason
that
> >youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the
> >door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> --== Sent via Deja.com <a
href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> ==--
> Before you buy.
>
>



From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 12:11:14 -0700
Subject: RE: Where have all the used cars gone?

Wait a minute!  I thought you were supposed to just keep buying more cars
and building bigger garages!  No wonder I'm stuck with 3 of these silly
things being stored all over Santa Barbara.  What a dope I am.

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: ghanley430 [mailto:ghanley430@email.msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 11:54 AM
To: John Noblin; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?



I live in Florida and am looking for a 66-67 BJ8. I would like it to be in
good mechanical condition with no rust, (I know I'm being picky).
If it needs paint and interior work, that's fine as that will help bring the
price down.
Anybody know of any good ones out there? I see them in Hemmings for
$14,000-$16,000, but I'd feel better if I knew of a "healey" person that
knew one personally.
I just restored a '67 MGB that is gorgeous, in fact my first time out it won
1st place at the local show for it's division. I might be interested in
selling it to help pay for the Healey.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Noblin" <jnoblin1@my-deja.com>
To: <editorgary@aol.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: Where have all the used cars gone?


>
> I'm in Jackson, Mississippi and know of several MGBs and TR6s and even a
Healey for sale right now.  Prices on unrestored MGBs seem to run $4,000 to
$6,000 generally.  I guess it just depends on supply and demand.  As far as
"getting in the loop", we all know that the network of a club is a valuable
asset.
>
> John Noblin
> 65 BJ8
> Jackson, Mississippi
>
> >From: Editorgary@aol.com
> >Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:40:22 EDT
> >Subject: Where have all the used cars gone?
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net, mgs@autox.team.net
> >Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> >
> >
> >We worry about how to get youngsters into the hobby -- I've got a young
> >friend who has about $5,000-$7,000 to spend on a "fun car" and he's
thinking
> >MGB, GT6, or Jensen Healey.  I'm at a loss to tell him how to find one.
We
> >live in the greater San Francisco Bay area, and I haven't seen one of
these
> >cars advertised in the local papers for literally years. Do we just live
in
> >the wrong place, or is it essential to hook up with a local club to find
one
> >through the informal network? (If the latter is true, then the reason
that
> >youngsters aren't coming into the hobby may be that they can't find the
> >door.) Any thoughts, anyone?
> >Cheers
> >Gary Anderson
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> --== Sent via Deja.com <a
href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> ==--
> Before you buy.
>
>


From "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec at globalserve.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 17:36:33 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"

Hey Keith, so you are still  pre-politically correct?

Mike L.
60A(Pawlak's),67E,59Bug

----- Original Message ----- Apology accepted.... we all make
mistakes time to time... easy enough to
> do... I laughed at it



From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 16:56:31 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"

Shoot if you re-read it... you will see I talk about Laughing at the
Mistake... but Yeah I laughed at a couple of the Jokes too... I sure didn't
take offense... I would have preferred not to see it on the Healey list...
cause I know it will offend some... and there is no reason to offend folks
if it's not necessary... this is a Hobby we all love... Time to get back to
the Hobby and out of the Junk.... 

Keith

----------
> From: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>; kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net>; JISah102
<ah102@home.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: (no subject) "APOLOGY"
> Date: Thursday, October 19, 2000 4:36 PM
> 
> 
> Hey Keith, so you are still  pre-politically correct?
> 
> Mike L.
> 60A(Pawlak's),67E,59Bug
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- Apology accepted.... we all make
> mistakes time to time... easy enough to
> > do... I laughed at it
> 
> 

From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 15:18:40 -0700
Subject: Midas muffler


After fourteen years, my "lifetime" Midas muffler has disintegrated.
When I took the old gal down to the Midas shop, I was informed that
Midas "doesn't even handle that muffler anymore", and "can't even find
one in stock at any Midas dealer nationwide".  To wit I asked if
anyone had called another source, such as Moss in Goleta.  I was
informed that no one, even Moss, carries this muffler anymore!   So,
the obvious question is . . . where would the listers suggest Midas
look for a replacement muffler for a '60 BT7?  As usual, thanks.

Terry Blubaugh
BT7
XKEv12


From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 20:07:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

There is one 1963 BJ7, a 1965 BJ8 and a 1966 BJ8 for sale listed from Florida 
in the September Austin Healey of America Magazine.
John  


From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 20:46:02 EDT
Subject: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating

Last year some time there was talk of ceramic heat-shield materials that 
could be placed between  the floor  and muffler.  I seem to recall that it 
was possibly a racing item.  Does anyone have a line on this type of stuff--I 
am NOT referring to the fibreglass-type insulation that is usually used--this 
is very thin, rigid, and supposedly quite effective.  

Also, I would like to hear from anyone who has had their exhaust manifold 
and/or downpipe and muffler treated with the Jet-Hot process, including 
contact info.  

Thanks--Michael, BN1
(Getting a jump on Spring!)

From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 20:08:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating

Hi, Michael --
I had my BJ8 exhaust manifold Jet-Hot coated with their high-luster silver
coating.  After 7500 miles, it still looks like it did when I got it back
from Jet-Hot.   No evidence yet of cracking, peeling, or discoloring, or
rusting of the manifold.   They have a website:  http://www.jet-hot.com

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, October 19, 2000 9:12 PM
Subject: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating


>
>Last year some time there was talk of ceramic heat-shield materials that
>could be placed between  the floor  and muffler.  I seem to recall that it
>was possibly a racing item.  Does anyone have a line on this type of
stuff--I
>am NOT referring to the fibreglass-type insulation that is usually
used--this
>is very thin, rigid, and supposedly quite effective.
>
>Also, I would like to hear from anyone who has had their exhaust manifold
>and/or downpipe and muffler treated with the Jet-Hot process, including
>contact info.
>
>Thanks--Michael, BN1
>(Getting a jump on Spring!)
>


From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:09:47 -0400
Subject: Lookee!

SpeedVision's "Legends of Motorsport" tonight at 1:00 AM ET has a
show on the 1957 British Grand Prix that starts with all the drivers riding
around the track individually in a long line of brand new white Austin
Healey 100-Sixes!  Set your VCR.
Doug, 18G


From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 19:28:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Parts wanted - Water pump

John,  I purchased mine from Mike Salter in Canada.  It fit well but I haven't
fired the engine up yet (have to finish the body first!).  First rate service
for sure.

Jerry Rude
BJ8

john spaur wrote:

> Sorry to bomb the List but I am trying to find some miscellaneous parts for
> my 62BT7 with the usual 3000 engine, and hope someone can help me.
>
> Does anyone know if there is water pump rebuild kit?
> Are all the bearings available from bearing suppliers?
>
> TIA
> 62' bt7, very thirsty.


From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:36:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating

I had my exhaust manifolds and sheet metal heat shield ceramic powder coated 
in a cast iron gray.   The coating is about two years old now, and I have 
driven it up and down my country road some, still looks like new!   I have 
seen the same coating from the same source on cars that have been driven 
quite a bit, and they look great too!  I would highly recommend it, it seems 
to be a once for a lifetime coating.   

The place that did mine is Classic Coatings, which is near me in south 
eastern Wisconsin.  Classic Coatings is ran by a car guy, he does Buell bike 
frames, lots of classic car parts, Ferrari stuff, Indy car stuff, etc, etc.   
 

He also has a nice (new!) web site @:    <A 
HREF="http://www.classiccoatings.com/images/logo.gif";>classic coatings</A>



No financial interest, etc, etc.


 

John    
Oostburg, WI
'60 BT7
'60 Mini
'80 TR7 (freshly repainted Carmine red!) 
'69 AA
'57 Isetta
Etc.

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 21:47:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Midas muffler

hi terry-

any of the normal healey parts suppliers shoud carry the regular 2in-2out 
muffler (not midas) or you can opt for the monza system muffler & tailpipe 
which will require some cutting and fitting or you can have any of the 
competent local muffler shops build you a system -- there are some real wizards 
working in these shops.

happy healeying,

jerry wall
----- Original Message -----

From: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Midas muffler
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 15:18:40 -0700

 
 
After fourteen years, my "lifetime" Midas muffler has disintegrated. 
When I took the old gal down to the Midas shop, I was informed that 
Midas "doesn't even handle that muffler anymore", and "can't even find 
one in stock at any Midas dealer nationwide".  To wit I asked if 
anyone had called another source, such as Moss in Goleta.  I was 
informed that no one, even Moss, carries this muffler anymore!   So, 
the obvious question is . . . where would the listers suggest Midas 
look for a replacement muffler for a '60 BT7?  As usual, thanks. 
 
Terry Blubaugh 
BT7 
XKEv12 
 



From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 22:08:47 -0500
Subject: TEXAS KOOLER FALL SPECIAL

THE NORTH TEXAS AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB IS PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE, DUE TO POPULAR 
DEMAND, THE FALL SPECIAL WILL BE EXTENDED THROUGH NOV 15.

IF, BECAUSE OF THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF TOOLING AROUND THE COUNTRYSIDE IN YOUR 
HEALEY, YOU FAILED TO GET YOUR ORDER SENT -- NOW THERE IS STILL TIME LEFT TO 
ACT.

WE WILL AGAIN PLAY KOOLER LOTTERY.  THERE WILL BE A SECOND LUCKY REFUND FROM 
AMONG THOSE ORDERING BY NOV 15.

CHECK IT OUT ON WWW.NTAHC.AUSTIN1.COM  LOOK OVER OUR EXTENSIVE WEBSITE AT THE 
SAME TIME.


From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:08:25 -0700
Subject: Knock off tightening

Hi list,

Pardon me if this has been discussed but I think some knock offs I have 
were damaged by over tightening, at least that is what a metallurgist told me.

Does any one remember the 'turn of the nut' method for determining the 
proper torque of a... well 'nut' of course?

What tightness should a knock off be and how do you determine it?

Do you finger tight it and pound until the hammer breaks :-) or what. I 
have a tendency to over tighten things.

What does the list think?

Thanks
John, 62 BT7, curious again


From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 11:48:31 +0200
Subject: SV: SV: Parts wanted - Water pump

John,
I see, I have my old one too. Havent come around to do anything with it yet, 
but I guess I will as I dont throw away anything. Had a lot of throuble with my 
water seal on a Mercedes waterpump. Now... THIS pump had a price-tag I would 
have guessed was taken from a used car outlet. It was worthwhile to give it a 
go on repairing it as it was 10 times the price of a Healey - pump.
Well, the water seal started leaking imidiately after initial start-up..it 
lasted all about 30 mins.
Second time around... I started thinking..why?. I guessed it was due to a dry 
startup??
Have seen pumps going dry for substantial time due to airlocks in my days as a 
hydraulic engineer, so I decided to put some "snake oil" on the next seal, and 
voila!...  Oh.. and yes... I made sure there was no airlocks by sqeezing the 
rubber hoses at startup. Appart from that, there is ageing of rubber-parts. 
Covered by the list before. My best advice would be to spray the seal with some 
"snake-oil", then make sure there was NO airlocks when you do the initial 
start-up.

Eyvind Larssen 60BT7

> Eyvind,
> 
> I have a new one with about 400 miles on it and an original in very good 
> shape but with a failed water seal. I suspect it may happen in my current 
> one. I am rebuilding my engine and have experienced, for reasons beyond my 
> knowledge, that water seals fail when off the engine for extended times 
> during maintenance. I just do not want to litter the world with used water 
> pumps and I do want to have my original and a spare available.
> 
> Thanks for you kindly response.
> 
> Fun driving!
> John
> 
> 
> At 03:47 PM 10/18/00 +0200, you wrote:
> >
> > > Sorry to bomb the List but I am trying to find some miscellaneous parts 
> > for
> > > my 62BT7 with the usual 3000 engine, and hope someone can help me.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know if there is water pump rebuild kit?
> > > Are all the bearings available from bearing suppliers?
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > 62' bt7, very thirsty.
> >
> >Dunno where your at.. but NEW waterpumps are cheap and available from A&H 
> >spares in UK.
> >
> >Eyvind Larssen 60BT7.... WITH a new one.
> 
> 


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 05:11:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Knock off tightening

hi john-

it only needs to be firm, don't beat it into oblivion.  the forward rotation of 
the wheel is always tightening.  loosen and tighten with the wheel off the 
ground for thread longevity.  the all lead hammers will preserve the finish of 
your knock offs.

happy healeying,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: john spaur <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Knock off tightening
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:08:25 -0700

 
Hi list, 
 
Pardon me if this has been discussed but I think some knock offs I have  
were damaged by over tightening, at least that is what a metallurgist told me. 
 
Does any one remember the 'turn of the nut' method for determining the  
proper torque of a... well 'nut' of course? 
 
What tightness should a knock off be and how do you determine it? 
 
Do you finger tight it and pound until the hammer breaks :-) or what. I  
have a tendency to over tighten things. 
 
What does the list think? 
 
Thanks 
John, 62 BT7, curious again 
 



From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 05:11:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Knock off tightening

hi john-

it only needs to be firm, don't beat it into oblivion.  the forward rotation of 
the wheel is always tightening.  loosen and tighten with the wheel off the 
ground for thread longevity.  the all lead hammers will preserve the finish of 
your knock offs.

happy healeying,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: john spaur <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Knock off tightening
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:08:25 -0700

 
Hi list, 
 
Pardon me if this has been discussed but I think some knock offs I have  
were damaged by over tightening, at least that is what a metallurgist told me. 
 
Does any one remember the 'turn of the nut' method for determining the  
proper torque of a... well 'nut' of course? 
 
What tightness should a knock off be and how do you determine it? 
 
Do you finger tight it and pound until the hammer breaks :-) or what. I  
have a tendency to over tighten things. 
 
What does the list think? 
 
Thanks 
John, 62 BT7, curious again 
 



From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 10:36:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Where have all the used cars gone?

Ed,
Ops.  Sorry.  I should have said Austin Healey Club of America's Magazine, the
 Healey Marque.  I'm sure you are familiar with the club.  AHCA home page: 
www.healeyclub.org
John


From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 07:38:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating

I had my Healey headers done by Jet Hot in black. I just had to be careful
on reinstallation not to scratch them. I probably should have kept them
wrapped up.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 5:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Heat Shields and Jet-Hot coating



Last year some time there was talk of ceramic heat-shield materials that 
could be placed between  the floor  and muffler.  I seem to recall that it 
was possibly a racing item.  Does anyone have a line on this type of
stuff--I 
am NOT referring to the fibreglass-type insulation that is usually
used--this 
is very thin, rigid, and supposedly quite effective.  

Also, I would like to hear from anyone who has had their exhaust manifold 
and/or downpipe and muffler treated with the Jet-Hot process, including 
contact info.  

Thanks--Michael, BN1
(Getting a jump on Spring!)

From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 08:05:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Midas muffler

Here in San Bernardiino CA a few years ago I had one of the better custom
muffler shops install a 240Z muffler which is thinner (road clearence) and
approx 6 inches shorter than stock.  A little louder than stock but I think
sounds better. Try it you'll like it.
(Minor modification needed by cutting off the factory hangers and grinding
them down)
As far as the pipes go, make sure they use alumanized tubing, will last
almost as long as stainless and stays silver, no rust.

Kirk Kvam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: Midas muffler


>
> hi terry-
>
> any of the normal healey parts suppliers shoud carry the regular 2in-2out
muffler (not midas) or you can opt for the monza system muffler & tailpipe
which will require some cutting and fitting or you can have any of the
competent local muffler shops build you a system -- there are some real
wizards working in these shops.
>
> happy healeying,
>
> jerry wall
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Midas muffler
> Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 15:18:40 -0700
>
>
>
> After fourteen years, my "lifetime" Midas muffler has disintegrated.
> When I took the old gal down to the Midas shop, I was informed that
> Midas "doesn't even handle that muffler anymore", and "can't even find
> one in stock at any Midas dealer nationwide".  To wit I asked if
> anyone had called another source, such as Moss in Goleta.  I was
> informed that no one, even Moss, carries this muffler anymore!   So,
> the obvious question is . . . where would the listers suggest Midas
> look for a replacement muffler for a '60 BT7?  As usual, thanks.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> BT7
> XKEv12
>
>
>


From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 11:51:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Knock off tightening

Hi, John --
What has always worked for me is to initially tighten the knockoff with the
weight off the wheel, then lower the jack to keep the wheel from turning
while I finish tightening.  I like to use a piece of 2 x 4 against the ear
of the knockoff and pound on that with a hammer.  It saves the knockoff as
well as the hammer.  Tighten until the knockoff doesn't appear to move when
the ear is struck, then paint the torque stripes if you wish.

Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@mediacity.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, October 20, 2000 1:08 AM
Subject: Knock off tightening


>
>Hi list,
>
>Pardon me if this has been discussed but I think some knock offs I have
>were damaged by over tightening, at least that is what a metallurgist told
me.
>
>Does any one remember the 'turn of the nut' method for determining the
>proper torque of a... well 'nut' of course?
>
>What tightness should a knock off be and how do you determine it?
>
>Do you finger tight it and pound until the hammer breaks :-) or what. I
>have a tendency to over tighten things.
>
>What does the list think?
>
>Thanks
>John, 62 BT7, curious again
>


From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 14:42:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Hub oil seals and angles

There have been comments on the list that it's impossible to drive a BN1 or 2 in
San Francisco because there are too many parking spots that ae at 90 degrees to
the hills and invaribly the oil leaks out onto the brakes.  You could try just
new shoes if you've never had a problem in otherwise, but I don't think
replacing the rear seal is too difficult, and you sure would hate to lose your
brakes at the wrong time.

"shutchings@look.ca" wrote:

> After doing some work on the car today, I was dismayed to find diff oil
> leaking out of one of the back hubs, down onto the wheel (...and past the
> brakes, I know!).....after I'd had time to think about it, I realized that
> I'd jacked the other side up
> higher than usual, and taken a while to get around to the other side, so the
> leak seemed to develop as a result of  the
> angle of the axle, and more than the usual volume of oil flowing to that
> side. I've wiped it off for now, and see how it looks in the morning, but
> I'm hoping that it will stop leaking when kept level for a while. Anyone had
> this happen?
> Hoping I don't have to pull the hub, Stephen


From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 17:02:15 -0700
Subject: Test

Test

KLK


From <CCruz at tribune.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 12:25:47 -0500
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up

Richard,

The nuts (watch it boys) on my car were proper, leading me to believe they
where not tightened adequately.

Carlos Cruz

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard E. Pratt [mailto:prattri@email.msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 2:37 PM
To: Neil Trelenberg; Cruz, Carlos; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up


Neil,
The lug nuts originally on the car are not self locking. They are conical on
one end to locate the rim or hub on the axel and provide additional surface
area to prevent them for loosing. Nuts do not have a tendency to loosen
easer after numerous times. They will come loose if they are not tightened
properly. I would recommend strongly not to use any nut which is not
designed for the hub. If the nut is not conical and permits the hub or rim
to move circumferentially back and forth  under acceleration or braking
forces, the wheel will come lose. My take on this situation is one of the
following:
1 lug nuts were not tightened properly tom start with.
2 Nut was not the proper ones( regular not conical).

 It must be remembered that the stud and nut design on the Healeys are the
same that are on your car or SUV today. And I can assure you, if you leave
them loose the tire and rim will come off just like the one on Carlos's car.

I don't mean to sound inflexible, but this subject is to critical to have
people doing their own thing and not be correct in their recommendations.

Richard Pratt
65 BJ8
Cincinnati, OH

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Neil Trelenberg
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 1:10 PM
> To: CCruz@tribune.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
>
> Carlos, your unfortunate accident was caused by something we should all be
> aware of. The incident  is not an isolated case, one of our club members,
> while towing, lost a rear wheel from the same thing (at least he was not
> driving like yourself). The nuts that hold the hub on can easily loosen up
> especially if they have been removed numerous times. The nuts are a self
> locking type that do not seem to hold well after repeated removals. I was
> told to change mine and I will do just that this fall. The nuts should be
> torqued to 60 lbs (correct me if wrong) and as an interm I used a bit of
> loctite until I replace them. Re-torquing them is something that
> is not done
> on a regular basis and perhaps should everytime the wheels are off, the
> shocks could be done at the same time. Glad to hear your ok, take
> care....Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CCruz@tribune.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:32 AM
> Subject: Wheel of Fortune Follow Up
>
>
> >
> > Good morning Listers,
> >
> > Thank you to those that expressed concern over my well being.  I
> appreciate
> > your concern.  I received a flood of questions requesting more
> details.  I
> > will try and address all of the ones I've received so far in this email.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Carlos Cruz
> >
> >
> > Q:  What actually broke or came loose?
> > Q:  Did you find what was the actual cause?
> >
> > A:  From what I can tell, some of the lug nuts came loose,
> stripping most
> of
> > the tread on the studs.  It appears the loose nuts provided the
> wheel some
> > play which oblonged the hub's holes during the drive until the hub
> separated
> > from the drum.  The knock-off did not fail or come loose in any way.  In
> > fact when the wheel was retrieved from the hay field, the knock-off was
> > still attached to the hub on the inside of the wheel trapping
> the lug nuts
> > between the wheel and hub.  I haven't removed the hub as of
> yet, for that
> > matter touched anything since the insurance claims adjuster comes to
> inspect
> > the car tomorrow.
> >
> > Q:  What would you have been checking for if you had inspected
> the wheels
> > before setting out?
> > Q:  If you had checked your wheels, any idea of what you might
> have found?
> >
> > A:  I typically remove the wheels every three to four hundred miles or
> prior
> > to a long trip.  I inspect the hubs for signs of cracks or fracture.  I
> > check the condition of the splines to see if there is any rounding or
> > points.  Apply some fresh lubrication to the splines.  I also
> inspect the
> > brake calipers, lines and shocks in the front for any signs of
> leaks.  In
> > the rear I adjust the brake shoe tension, check the battery and
> shocks.  I
> > tighten all the lug nuts and re-install the wheels.  It doesn't
> take a lot
> > of time to do.  Check the fluids in the engine and tranny and
> I'm ready to
> > go.
> >
> > Q:  Did anyone, by any chance, take any pictures of the aftermath?
> >
> > A:  Not at the scene, however I have some good close ups now
> that the car
> is
> > home on jacks.
> >
> > Q:  You should have heard grinding noises, experienced
> vibration, throttle
> > steer, wander, all kinds of symptoms indicating a problem.
> >
> > A:  I didn't hear much over the roar of wind.  The ear muffs I
> was wearing
> > didn't help either.  No more ear muffs for me when driving.  The car
> didn't
> > vibrate until just before the wheel broke loose at which moment
> I took my
> > foot off the gas and pushed in the clutch.  I actually believe this one
> > quick reaction saved my life.  There were no other noticeable
> signs.  The
> > drivers of the pickups and the Chevelle that stopped mentioned that they
> > noticed a pronounced wobble a split second before the wheel broke loose.
> Up
> > until that moment, I had made only left turns at speed or
> steering left to
> > pass.  Momentum and pressure was forcing the left wheel/hub against the
> > drum.  The wheel broke free when I steered right, forcing the left wheel
> > away from the car, to move back into the right-hand lane.
> >
> > Q:  If I got your story straight all five (four) studs and lug
> nuts failed
>
> > allowing the entire hub to come free from the drum.
> >
> > A:  I don't think the lugs all came loose at once.  Two of the lugs were
> > severely stripped.  One in particular could almost pass for a
> smooth piece
> > of steel rod, with little noticeable thread left anywhere on
> the stud.  I
> > believe the most damaged studs retained the lug nuts tight
> until the last
> > moment when they were literally ripped off.  The other studs have good
> > thread remaining at the base of the stud indicating to me that the nuts
> > broke loose and were working their way off.  None of the studs fractured
> or
> > broke.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>


From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 21:28:45 -0400
Subject: Sorry

I apologise for my own confusion. Until the List Admin came back with
a BOUNCE message, I'd no idea what was happening. Somehow my email
settings got messed up.  Apparently things are working now.

Ed


From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 13:56:38 -0700
Subject: list archive not working?

Hi all,

I've been checking the list archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys over the last few
days and it seems to be broken. Any search comes up with 'Internal
Server Error Premature end of script headers" Before I submit the
problem to listquest, could someone else check to see if the problem is
universal or something just on my end.

Thanks,
John

From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 22:06:18 -0400
Subject: CAAHC Carpe Diem Trip

Congrats to the Capitol Area Austin Healey Club leaders for a super weekend
of Healeying thru the Virginia countryside ending with a car show joined by
a whole bunch of other cars and antique fire trucks at the Hot Air Balloon
Festival at Historic Long Branch in the Shenandoah Valley.  Good food, lots
of wine to taste, great cars, and fun driving.  Early attendees caught sight
of the Healey Surgeon himself floating across the countryside in a big
balloon.

Y'all done good!
Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb


From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 19:25:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Test

Poland, I mean Roland
(Above "Poland" was a typo, thought it was
funny and you might think same so I left it)
 
That's exactly what I thought as I had not received 
any list mail since yesterday.

Thinking that someone or one's of the PPBrains had 
complained to the webmaster before reading my apology.
                                  
                              BUT

Maybe an apology really was'nt necessary as the private mail 
has been 8 to 1 pos and soliciting more of same.

Kirk
62BT7#3
60BN7#405 (Ford302+)
26TRoadsterPU
33FordPU(Chev350nos/400)
75 Kaw900Z1-B
73CJ5
84MkVll (Versace)
35'Blue Bird (Cat Pwr)
20'BoxTr
and Lots of Smut

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: Test


Whazzamatta?  You think mjb cut you off?  :-)

-Roland

On Sat, 21 Oct 2000 17:02:15 -0700, you wrote:

:: 
:: Test
:: 
:: KLK
:: 



From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 00:48:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: TR6

Jack

Please don't take offense but you are looking at a parts car at best.  A 
restoration of this car will cost you twice or three times what it will be 
worth when you finish.  You should be able to find a nice TR6 driver, without 
dented body panels for $6-8000.

If you are in love with this car for some reason don't pay over $1500-2000.

BTW speedometer mileage is absolutely meaningless in these cars. The cable can 
be disconnected in 15 seconds and the speedomter can be rolled back with a 
toothpick.

DickB


 ---- you wrote: 
> I was looking at a 75 TR6 that is for sale today.
> 
> The car has been in storage for at least 10 years and only has 12,390 miles.
> 
> The body and frame are solid and rust free, but the paint and body are a bit
> abused.  There are at least 2-3 dings in the hood , 2-3 dings in the
> passenger door, , a 2-3 inch scrape/dent in a fender lip, multiple scratches
> throughout etc.  The rear quarter and tail light were replaced due to an
> accident when the car had 6000 miles around 1979.  The fender re-paint does
> not match the rest of the car very well.  Someone was a bit over zealous
> with the buffing wheel and has gone down to the primer in a few spots on the
> hood.  The finish is pretty shiny otherwise.
> 
> The carbs were cleaned a few years ago and the guy messed up the temperature
> compensator so the car will not idle when warm.
> 
> The top is ripped and needs replacement.
> 
> It has the original red-line tires in the rear that are a bit cracked, The
> front tires were replaced with blackwalls.
> 
> The steel wheels were recently repainted and looked like they were pretty
> rusty before the paint.  The trim rings are new because the old ones were
> rusty.
> 
> The chrome bumpers are pretty well pitted and have bare spots beneath the
> lights like they have been in the weather.  The guy said that the car was
> stored inside, but the pitted bumpers, rust pits on the steering wheel tell
> me otherwise at least for a period of time.
> 
> The carpets and seats are excellent except for a crack in the dash.
> 
> The stereo is not stock and has been replaced with a Jensen am/fm cassette
> with speakers mounted the tranny hump/console.
> 
> The clutch slave cylinder (the owner says it was the master, but I saw the
> new part beneath the car near the tranny) was just replaced.
> 
> They have a new exhaust that has not been installed.  The brake rotors are
> rusty and need to be cut.
> 
> The guy wants over $12k for this car and I have to say I was a bit
> disappointed in the condition of the car given the low miles.
> 
> I am a bit leery about what might go wrong with this car given how long it
> has been sitting.
> 
> What types of failures are likely after sitting like this?  engine main
> seals?  brake calipers? transmission seals? radiator?
> 
> I understand the low miles is pretty unique, but how much is that worth
> given the overall condition of the car?
> 
> I have only looked at a few TR6's so far, how hard is it to find rust free
> cars?
> 
> I think the car is worth considering, but I do not think it is worth the
> money they are asking.  What is the lists opinion?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Jack
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> bullitt@cybertours.com
> http://www.cybertours.com/~bullitt
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 00:48:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: TR6

Jack

Please don't take offense but you are looking at a parts car at best.  A 
restoration of this car will cost you twice or three times what it will be 
worth when you finish.  You should be able to find a nice TR6 driver, without 
dented body panels for $6-8000.

If you are in love with this car for some reason don't pay over $1500-2000.

BTW speedometer mileage is absolutely meaningless in these cars. The cable can 
be disconnected in 15 seconds and the speedomter can be rolled back with a 
toothpick.

DickB


 ---- you wrote: 
> I was looking at a 75 TR6 that is for sale today.
> 
> The car has been in storage for at least 10 years and only has 12,390 miles.
> 
> The body and frame are solid and rust free, but the paint and body are a bit
> abused.  There are at least 2-3 dings in the hood , 2-3 dings in the
> passenger door, , a 2-3 inch scrape/dent in a fender lip, multiple scratches
> throughout etc.  The rear quarter and tail light were replaced due to an
> accident when the car had 6000 miles around 1979.  The fender re-paint does
> not match the rest of the car very well.  Someone was a bit over zealous
> with the buffing wheel and has gone down to the primer in a few spots on the
> hood.  The finish is pretty shiny otherwise.
> 
> The carbs were cleaned a few years ago and the guy messed up the temperature
> compensator so the car will not idle when warm.
> 
> The top is ripped and needs replacement.
> 
> It has the original red-line tires in the rear that are a bit cracked, The
> front tires were replaced with blackwalls.
> 
> The steel wheels were recently repainted and looked like they were pretty
> rusty before the paint.  The trim rings are new because the old ones were
> rusty.
> 
> The chrome bumpers are pretty well pitted and have bare spots beneath the
> lights like they have been in the weather.  The guy said that the car was
> stored inside, but the pitted bumpers, rust pits on the steering wheel tell
> me otherwise at least for a period of time.
> 
> The carpets and seats are excellent except for a crack in the dash.
> 
> The stereo is not stock and has been replaced with a Jensen am/fm cassette
> with speakers mounted the tranny hump/console.
> 
> The clutch slave cylinder (the owner says it was the master, but I saw the
> new part beneath the car near the tranny) was just replaced.
> 
> They have a new exhaust that has not been installed.  The brake rotors are
> rusty and need to be cut.
> 
> The guy wants over $12k for this car and I have to say I was a bit
> disappointed in the condition of the car given the low miles.
> 
> I am a bit leery about what might go wrong with this car given how long it
> has been sitting.
> 
> What types of failures are likely after sitting like this?  engine main
> seals?  brake calipers? transmission seals? radiator?
> 
> I understand the low miles is pretty unique, but how much is that worth
> given the overall condition of the car?
> 
> I have only looked at a few TR6's so far, how hard is it to find rust free
> cars?
> 
> I think the car is worth considering, but I do not think it is worth the
> money they are asking.  What is the lists opinion?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Jack
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------
> bullitt@cybertours.com
> http://www.cybertours.com/~bullitt
> -------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 21:53:55 -0700
Subject: Re: list archive not working?

I just tried and got the same results here.  Listquest comes up first
and gives me the boxes to fill in for the search.  Anything I have
though to come up with to search on, including Listquest gets me that
same error diagnostic.  Probably an easy fix of some sort.

-Roland

On Sat, 21 Oct 2000 13:56:38 -0700, you wrote:

:: 
:: Hi all,
:: 
:: I've been checking the list archives at
:: http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys over the last few
:: days and it seems to be broken. Any search comes up with 'Internal
:: Server Error Premature end of script headers" Before I submit the
:: problem to listquest, could someone else check to see if the problem is
:: universal or something just on my end.
:: 
:: Thanks,
:: John


From Bobby Godwin <bogodwin at surfsouth.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 07:46:22 -0700
Subject: Re: list archive not working?

John,
    I tried it and when I did a search I got the same message.
                                       Bobby Godwin

John Loftus wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've been checking the list archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=healeys over the last few
> days and it seems to be broken. Any search comes up with 'Internal
> Server Error Premature end of script headers" Before I submit the
> problem to listquest, could someone else check to see if the problem is
> universal or something just on my end.
>
> Thanks,
> John


From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 09:33:45 -0600
Subject: Re: TR6

Dick is right.  Everything you describe sounds very suspect.  I sold a
beautiful TR6 2 years ago for 10000 and it was nice, not concours, but a
very nice driver with everything near new including the engine and it could
be driven anywhere and would turn heads.  I think you are being set up with
this one.  Sounds as if it would take another 10 large to just get it to a
nice reliable driver.

----- Original Message -----
From: <dickb@cheerful.com>
To: "Jack Gagnon" <bullitt@cybertours.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: TR6


>
> Jack
>
> Please don't take offense but you are looking at a parts car at best.  A
restoration of this car will cost you twice or three times what it will be
worth when you finish.  You should be able to find a nice TR6 driver,
without dented body panels for $6-8000.
>
> If you are in love with this car for some reason don't pay over
$1500-2000.
>
> BTW speedometer mileage is absolutely meaningless in these cars. The cable
can be disconnected in 15 seconds and the speedomter can be rolled back with
a toothpick.
>
> DickB
>
>
>  ---- you wrote:
> > I was looking at a 75 TR6 that is for sale today.
> >
> > The car has been in storage for at least 10 years and only has 12,390
miles.
> >
> > The body and frame are solid and rust free, but the paint and body are a
bit
> > abused.  There are at least 2-3 dings in the hood , 2-3 dings in the
> > passenger door, , a 2-3 inch scrape/dent in a fender lip, multiple
scratches
> > throughout etc.  The rear quarter and tail light were replaced due to an
> > accident when the car had 6000 miles around 1979.  The fender re-paint
does
> > not match the rest of the car very well.  Someone was a bit over zealous
> > with the buffing wheel and has gone down to the primer in a few spots on
the
> > hood.  The finish is pretty shiny otherwise.
> >
> > The carbs were cleaned a few years ago and the guy messed up the
temperature
> > compensator so the car will not idle when warm.
> >
> > The top is ripped and needs replacement.
> >
> > It has the original red-line tires in the rear that are a bit cracked,
The
> > front tires were replaced with blackwalls.
> >
> > The steel wheels were recently repainted and looked like they were
pretty
> > rusty before the paint.  The trim rings are new because the old ones
were
> > rusty.
> >
> > The chrome bumpers are pretty well pitted and have bare spots beneath
the
> > lights like they have been in the weather.  The guy said that the car
was
> > stored inside, but the pitted bumpers, rust pits on the steering wheel
tell
> > me otherwise at least for a period of time.
> >
> > The carpets and seats are excellent except for a crack in the dash.
> >
> > The stereo is not stock and has been replaced with a Jensen am/fm
cassette
> > with speakers mounted the tranny hump/console.
> >
> > The clutch slave cylinder (the owner says it was the master, but I saw
the
> > new part beneath the car near the tranny) was just replaced.
> >
> > They have a new exhaust that has not been installed.  The brake rotors
are
> > rusty and need to be cut.
> >
> > The guy wants over $12k for this car and I have to say I was a bit
> > disappointed in the condition of the car given the low miles.
> >
> > I am a bit leery about what might go wrong with this car given how long
it
> > has been sitting.
> >
> > What types of failures are likely after sitting like this?  engine main
> > seals?  brake calipers? transmission seals? radiator?
> >
> > I understand the low miles is pretty unique, but how much is that worth
> > given the overall condition of the car?
> >
> > I have only looked at a few TR6's so far, how hard is it to find rust
free
> > cars?
> >
> > I think the car is worth considering, but I do not think it is worth the
> > money they are asking.  What is the lists opinion?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Jack
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> > bullitt@cybertours.com
> > http://www.cybertours.com/~bullitt
> > -------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>


From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 10:59:49 -0500
Subject: Tires, again!


Hi Fellows

Well some of you will have read part of an exchange between Gary
Anderson and me on the tires I have on my BJ8 - Pirelli P3s. These tires
have only 3.5K on them but Gary's warning of failure at the
sidewall-tread interface has me concerned. In the latest "British Car"
in an article written by Gary on tires for ones classic, the suggestion
for Healeys up to BJ8 is  SP20 Dunlop's while the suggestion for later
BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the search
engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
choice.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan



From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 15:34:30 -0400
Subject: Palm Springs

I'll be out in Palm Springs this week.  any Healey of other Brit car
functions going on out there then?

tom


From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 16:00:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice

Re the recent discussion on knock-offs, we reprinted a little piece from
BMC's old club magazine, Safety Fast, in the current issue of Austin-Healey
Magazine, that speaks to this subject.  It was published in their July 1963
issue.  I'll quote it below for anyone still interested in this subject. 
I'm not trying to imply that this is "the last word" on the subject, but
merely thought it interesting what the original seller had to say.
------
WIRE WHEELS

Wire wheels are now optionally available for all BMC sports cars --
including the Sprite and Midget.  They look well but do need extra care:
here is the latest advice from BMC Service Ltd.

To ensure completely efficient operation, centre lock wire wheels and hubs
require occasional attention as follows:

1.  On a new car, after the first long run, or a series of short runs
totalling 50 miles (80 km.), jack up each wheel in turn and hammer nuts to
ensure they are tight.

2.  When changing wheels, wipe the serrations, cones and threads to remove
any foreign matter that would prevent the parts from seating properly.  Rust
and dirt will prevent proper operation.  Whenever wheels are replaced, a
light coating of grease should be applied to the conical surface, the
thread, and the serrations in the hub, and also to the conical surface and
thread in the lock nuts.  Hammer tight and recheck after a run, as for a new
car.

3.  When a wheel has to be changed on the road, the wheel should be removed
again as soon  as convenient in order that the hub etc. can be properly
greased as described in (2) above.

4.  Every twelve months -- irrespective of mileage -- the wheels should be
removed for examination and regreasing.

5.  After any major repairs, which may have involved stripping the front or
rear axle, a check should be made to ensure that, the inscription on each
locknut does in fact correspond with the side on which it is fitted.

N.B. -- Lift car on jack before using hammer and ENSURE LOCKNUTS ARE TIGHT. 
The lock nuts are designed for self-locking, but severe damage to the
splines will result if they are permitted to run untightened.
------

To put it mildly!

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
'56 BN2 100M
'56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
'60 AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org





















_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 19:20:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice

Reid, thanks for posting this info.   Very informative and to the point.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 5:00 PM
Subject: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice


>
> Re the recent discussion on knock-offs, we reprinted a little piece from
> BMC's old club magazine, Safety Fast, in the current issue of
Austin-Healey
> Magazine, that speaks to this subject.  It was published in their July
1963
> issue.  I'll quote it below for anyone still interested in this subject.
> I'm not trying to imply that this is "the last word" on the subject, but
> merely thought it interesting what the original seller had to say.
> ------
> WIRE WHEELS
>
> Wire wheels are now optionally available for all BMC sports cars --
> including the Sprite and Midget.  They look well but do need extra care:
> here is the latest advice from BMC Service Ltd.
>
> To ensure completely efficient operation, centre lock wire wheels and hubs
> require occasional attention as follows:
>
> 1.  On a new car, after the first long run, or a series of short runs
> totalling 50 miles (80 km.), jack up each wheel in turn and hammer nuts to
> ensure they are tight.
>
> 2.  When changing wheels, wipe the serrations, cones and threads to remove
> any foreign matter that would prevent the parts from seating properly.
Rust
> and dirt will prevent proper operation.  Whenever wheels are replaced, a
> light coating of grease should be applied to the conical surface, the
> thread, and the serrations in the hub, and also to the conical surface and
> thread in the lock nuts.  Hammer tight and recheck after a run, as for a
new
> car.
>
> 3.  When a wheel has to be changed on the road, the wheel should be
removed
> again as soon  as convenient in order that the hub etc. can be properly
> greased as described in (2) above.
>
> 4.  Every twelve months -- irrespective of mileage -- the wheels should be
> removed for examination and regreasing.
>
> 5.  After any major repairs, which may have involved stripping the front
or
> rear axle, a check should be made to ensure that, the inscription on each
> locknut does in fact correspond with the side on which it is fitted.
>
> N.B. -- Lift car on jack before using hammer and ENSURE LOCKNUTS ARE
TIGHT.
> The lock nuts are designed for self-locking, but severe damage to the
> splines will result if they are permitted to run untightened.
> ------
>
> To put it mildly!
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> '56 BN2 100M
> '56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
> '60 AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>


From Eric Kolb <macman at magpage.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 21:46:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice


Hmmm,
    How would one get a subscription to Austin-Healey Magazine?
-Eric Kolb
Healey Owner wanna-be
Reid Trummel wrote:

> Re the recent discussion on knock-offs, we reprinted a little piece from
> BMC's old club magazine, Safety Fast, in the current issue of Austin-Healey
> Magazine, that speaks to this subject.  It was published in their July 1963
> issue.  I'll quote it below for anyone still interested in this subject.
> I'm not trying to imply that this is "the last word" on the subject, but
> merely thought it interesting what the original seller had to say.
> ------
> WIRE WHEELS
>
> Wire wheels are now optionally available for all BMC sports cars --
> including the Sprite and Midget.  They look well but do need extra care:
> here is the latest advice from BMC Service Ltd.
>
> To ensure completely efficient operation, centre lock wire wheels and hubs
> require occasional attention as follows:
>
> 1.  On a new car, after the first long run, or a series of short runs
> totalling 50 miles (80 km.), jack up each wheel in turn and hammer nuts to
> ensure they are tight.
>
> 2.  When changing wheels, wipe the serrations, cones and threads to remove
> any foreign matter that would prevent the parts from seating properly.  Rust
> and dirt will prevent proper operation.  Whenever wheels are replaced, a
> light coating of grease should be applied to the conical surface, the
> thread, and the serrations in the hub, and also to the conical surface and
> thread in the lock nuts.  Hammer tight and recheck after a run, as for a new
> car.
>
> 3.  When a wheel has to be changed on the road, the wheel should be removed
> again as soon  as convenient in order that the hub etc. can be properly
> greased as described in (2) above.
>
> 4.  Every twelve months -- irrespective of mileage -- the wheels should be
> removed for examination and regreasing.
>
> 5.  After any major repairs, which may have involved stripping the front or
> rear axle, a check should be made to ensure that, the inscription on each
> locknut does in fact correspond with the side on which it is fitted.
>
> N.B. -- Lift car on jack before using hammer and ENSURE LOCKNUTS ARE TIGHT.
> The lock nuts are designed for self-locking, but severe damage to the
> splines will result if they are permitted to run untightened.
> ------
>
> To put it mildly!
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> '56 BN2 100M
> '56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
> '60 AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 08:42:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin-Healey Wanted

This healey was in our sunday paper.

Autsin Healey 3000   1965
Straight , rust free, runs, superb
$18,500,  Call: 315-736-4969

I have no interest in this car, never seen it, Just passing the info. along

There also is another Healey local to me someone is selling,
I'll find it again and take pictures if anyone is intertested...
I know it's a red 3000, That's all I know right now.  I live in the Syracuse
NY, area....
A guy parks it everyday with a for sale sign on it....


Reid Trummel wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Bob Jordan of Westchester County, NY (about 45 miles north of NYC, near
> Connecticut) is looking for a big Healey to purchase.  Please contact him
> directly with any leads (his email address is CC above).  Basically he's
> looking for:
>
> -- Preferably a BJ8, but does not have to be.
>
> -- He can travel to the Midwest or South to the Carolinas.  However, he also
> said, "if the right car is in California, I'd ship it East," meaning there's
> no strict maximum distance within the USA.
>
> -- He's looking for "just a good, mechanically sound Healey that I can have
> fun in at weekend shows and not be embarrassed."
>
> -- Price range of "the 'teens or low 20's."
>
> Thanks in advance for any help, and again, please contact Bob directly via
> email.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> BN2
> BN2
> AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 05:47:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice

On Sun, 22 Oct 2000 21:46:34 -0400, Eric Kolb wrote:
  
>> Hmmm, How would one get a subscription to Austin-Healey Magazine?
-Eric Kolb
Healey Owner wanna-be <<

What a great question!  ;-)

Austin-Healey Magazine is the publication of the Austin-Healey Club USA. 
You can join right online using a VISA or MasterCard at our website:
http://www.healey.org

There's also a printable application there if you would rather join my mail
paying by check.

Cheers!
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
'56 BN2 100M
'56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
'60 AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org

































_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 06:34:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 Tools Needed

A fellow enthusiast approached me at a British car meet this past weekend
(the "All British Field Meet & Autojumble" held at Picnic Island Park in
Tampa, Florida and hosted by the Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club; a record
turn-out of 215 cars!), and asked for help to replace the tools for his BJ8.
Someone recently broke into a storage space he rents and among the boxes
they hurriedly took, one contained his BJ8's tool kit.

He can buy a hammer from any of a number of commercial sources, and I've got
him lined up with a jack handle, but he still needs (1) the conical,
orange-painted Shelley jack, (2) the "tube socket"-style spark plug wrench,
and (3) the small tommy bar that goes with the spark plug wrench.

Any leads appreciated.  I'll relay info to him.  TIA.

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
'56 BN2 100M
'56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
'60 AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org
































_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From john spaur <jmsdarch at mediacity.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 08:39:01 -0700
Subject: Heat shields wanted

Hi all,

Does anyone have some decent BT7 asbestos heat shields for sale? I only 
need the drivers foot well shields, especially the one that faces the bell 
housing.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
John
'62 BT7


From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 08:48:11 -0500
Subject: getting Austin-Healey Magazine (was: RE: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice)

Hi Eric,

Austin-Healey Magazine is a benefit provided to members of the Austin-Healey
Club USA. You can learn more about the club here at http://www.healey.org/

You'll find both online and printer-friendly versions of the membership
applications at http://www.healey.org/join.shtml

Have fun,

Brad Weldon
webmaster, AHCUSA
http://healey.org/




> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Eric Kolb
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 8:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice
>
>
>
>
> Hmmm,
>     How would one get a subscription to Austin-Healey Magazine?
> -Eric Kolb
> Healey Owner wanna-be
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > Re the recent discussion on knock-offs, we reprinted a little piece from
> > BMC's old club magazine, Safety Fast, in the current issue of
> Austin-Healey
> > Magazine, that speaks to this subject.  It was published in
> their July 1963
> > issue.  I'll quote it below for anyone still interested in this subject.
> > I'm not trying to imply that this is "the last word" on the subject, but
> > merely thought it interesting what the original seller had to say.
> > ------
> > WIRE WHEELS
> >
> > Wire wheels are now optionally available for all BMC sports cars --
> > including the Sprite and Midget.  They look well but do need extra care:
> > here is the latest advice from BMC Service Ltd.
> >
> > To ensure completely efficient operation, centre lock wire
> wheels and hubs
> > require occasional attention as follows:
> >
> > 1.  On a new car, after the first long run, or a series of short runs
> > totalling 50 miles (80 km.), jack up each wheel in turn and
> hammer nuts to
> > ensure they are tight.
> >
> > 2.  When changing wheels, wipe the serrations, cones and
> threads to remove
> > any foreign matter that would prevent the parts from seating
> properly.  Rust
> > and dirt will prevent proper operation.  Whenever wheels are replaced, a
> > light coating of grease should be applied to the conical surface, the
> > thread, and the serrations in the hub, and also to the conical
> surface and
> > thread in the lock nuts.  Hammer tight and recheck after a run,
> as for a new
> > car.
> >
> > 3.  When a wheel has to be changed on the road, the wheel
> should be removed
> > again as soon  as convenient in order that the hub etc. can be properly
> > greased as described in (2) above.
> >
> > 4.  Every twelve months -- irrespective of mileage -- the
> wheels should be
> > removed for examination and regreasing.
> >
> > 5.  After any major repairs, which may have involved stripping
> the front or
> > rear axle, a check should be made to ensure that, the
> inscription on each
> > locknut does in fact correspond with the side on which it is fitted.
> >
> > N.B. -- Lift car on jack before using hammer and ENSURE
> LOCKNUTS ARE TIGHT.
> > The lock nuts are designed for self-locking, but severe damage to the
> > splines will result if they are permitted to run untightened.
> > ------
> >
> > To put it mildly!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > '56 BN2 100M
> > '56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
> > '60 AN5 "Lucky"
> > http://www.healey.org
> >
> > _______________________________________________________
> > Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> > http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>


From Joseph Elmer <Joelmer at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 12:44:26 -0400
Subject: water pump grease lubrication

The water pump on a BN1 water pump has a lube fitting.  What are owners
using for lube and how are you getting it in there?  The fitting on the
end of my grease gun doesn't fit the nipple tightly - is there a small
sized tip for this nipple as compared to the other fittings on the car?
Joe Elmer.


From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 17:09:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Knock-Offs, BMC's Advice


In a message dated 10/22/00 7:04:19 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:

<<On a new car, after the first long run, or a series of short runs
totalling 50 miles (80 km.), jack up each wheel in turn and hammer nuts>>

There's a joke in there somewhere, Reid, but it's just too painful to 
contemplate.

Rick

From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:14:24 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Tach wiring

Hi all,

I have been on the side lines reading for the past couple of years as my
'67 BJ8 lay in boxes. I am now closing in on the day "we" will take a
ride together but I have a perplexing problem.

The car had no tachometer when I bought it in boxes. I now have a tach
and contacted Palo Alto Speedometer for the plastic plug and pick-up
coil.

The Healey wiring diagram shows the tach pick-up coil wired in series
between the ignition switch "run" position and the SW coil position.

The wiring diagram provided by Palo Alto shows the tach pick-up coil
wired in series between the coil and the distributor.

I have converted the car to negative ground and made the appropriate
tachometer internal changes but the pick-up coil is still an issue. Can
someone enlighten me on the correct wiring for the tachometer.

Thank you much.

Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida


From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 18:30:05 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Tach wiring

Hi Earle,

The pick up coil is wired between the ignition switch and the coil, but it
will work either way.

Regards,

Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

Earle Knobloch wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have been on the side lines reading for the past couple of years as my
> '67 BJ8 lay in boxes. I am now closing in on the day "we" will take a
> ride together but I have a perplexing problem.
>
> The car had no tachometer when I bought it in boxes. I now have a tach
> and contacted Palo Alto Speedometer for the plastic plug and pick-up
> coil.
>
> The Healey wiring diagram shows the tach pick-up coil wired in series
> between the ignition switch "run" position and the SW coil position.
>
> The wiring diagram provided by Palo Alto shows the tach pick-up coil
> wired in series between the coil and the distributor.
>
> I have converted the car to negative ground and made the appropriate
> tachometer internal changes but the pick-up coil is still an issue. Can
> someone enlighten me on the correct wiring for the tachometer.
>
> Thank you much.
>
> Earle Knobloch
> Estero, Florida


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:19:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires, again!


In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:

<< BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the search
engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
choice.

Kind regards
Ed >>
I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As 
many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.  I 
was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.  I 
suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack, on 
line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
Cheers
Gary

From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:55:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

I just got 185/70 Goodrich Touring TAs from Tire Rack for $40 ea!  Talk to 
Martin at Tire Rack.  He's got a Healey and was very helpful.

John Noblin

>From: Editorgary@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:19:40 EDT
>Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
>
>
>
>In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>
><< BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the search
>engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
>would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
>tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
>choice.
>
>Kind regards
>Ed >>
>I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As 
>many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.  I 
>was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.  I 
>suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack, on 
>line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
>Cheers
>Gary




------------------------------------------------------------
--== Sent via Deja.com <a href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> 
==--
Before you buy. 



From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 08:11:00 -0700
Subject: Is the Healey list server working?

I've only received 3 or 4 list messages in two days. Usually I would have 3
or 4 dozen incoming. Is there a problem with the Healey List or is it at my
end?    Coop



From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:09:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?

I have the same situation..
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Coop1 wrote:

> I've only received 3 or 4 list messages in two days. Usually I would have 3
> or 4 dozen incoming. Is there a problem with the Healey List or is it at my
> end?    Coop




From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 19:33:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?

Over here in Germany the same. Are all on vacation ?

Regards

Martin


----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?


>
> I have the same situation..
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Coop1 wrote:
>
> > I've only received 3 or 4 list messages in two days. Usually I
would have 3
> > or 4 dozen incoming. Is there a problem with the Healey List or is
it at my
> > end?    Coop
>
>
>


From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:24:48 -0400
Subject: LBC based holy war question...

Ok folks,

        I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It 
is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which 
one you would go for and why?

Mike B
59 BT7 

From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:14:12 -0500
Subject: Re: LBC based holy war question...

Who has the better club locally?   

Just a thought... after that I would have to have the TD.... with a Blown
Small Block and Nitrous.... jk of course

K

----------
> From: M Brouillette <mbrouill@ix.netcom.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: LBC based holy war question...
> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 1:24 PM
> 
> 
> Ok folks,
> 
>         I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage. 
It 
> is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on
which 
> one you would go for and why?
> 
> Mike B
> 59 BT7 

From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:35:10 -0700
Subject: RE: LBC based holy war question...

        TR3,    first, I love  'em and have owned a couple. Second,   they
have ample power and handle well compared to a TD.     

John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
john.pagel@iMotors.com

-----Original Message-----
From: M Brouillette [mailto:mbrouill@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 11:25 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: LBC based holy war question...


Ok folks,

        I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It
is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which
one you would go for and why?

Mike B
59 BT7

From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:39:43 -0700
Subject: RE: LBC based holy war question...

Wow.  What polar opposites!  I'm a dyed in the wool MG nut so this is a hard
question for me.  They are both very cool cars with their own
idiosyncracies.  The TR will have tons more power, piles more torque, and
will be generally more pleasant on the freeways.  On the other hand, the TD
does have that classic vintage look to it as well as rack and pinon steering
and a windshield that folds down so you get bugs in your teeth.  The TR is a
bit funky looking with those wierd headlights but at the same time it's part
of the appeal.  Both cars are known for weak cranks and TDs don't have the
strongest transmissions.  There are things that can be done to TDs to give
them more power and better freeway manners such as different gears and
superchargers and stuff, so really it all comes down to personal preference
and what you want to do with it.  Personally I would probably go with an MGA
with an MGB engine.  That way I would get the performance, the classic
looks, and the ability to say "I still don't own a Triumph!"  :7)

I'm curious, what other cars did you consider?  While perhaps not as unique
as the others, I have always thought that early MGBs are one of the best
cars out there.  Especially the GTs.  My GT has the best part of 300,000
mile on her, gets driven daily and is solid as a rock.  I wouldn't trade her
for the world!  

Jonathan Lane


-----Original Message-----
From: M Brouillette [mailto:mbrouill@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 11:25 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: LBC based holy war question...



Ok folks,

        I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It 
is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which 
one you would go for and why?

Mike B
59 BT7 

From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:52:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: LBC based holy war question...

On Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:24:48 -0400, M Brouillette wrote:
 
<< Ok folks,
I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It is down
to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which one you
would go for and why?
Mike B
59 BT7 >>

I'd go with the TR3.  It's a more driveable/usable car due to its ability to
cruise at highway speeds without undue strain.  A nice TR3 is also generally
available for less money than an equally nice TD.  The TR3 also has a
distinguished competition history, and in fact was one of the competitors
for the Healeys in the late 1950s and on into the 1960s in club racing.  The
TR3 would also be a better contemporary counterpart to your '59 BT7 than a
TD.  

By the way, a Bugeye would also make a great addition to your stable.  It's
a very different driving experience from a Big Healey and a natural
counterpart to your BT7.  As it says about the Bugeye in the model
description on our website (http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml),
"Would you like to own a fun, endearing, eminently affordable icon of the
heyday of British sports cars? Your search is over." 

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
'56 BN2 100M
'56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
'60 AN5 "Lucky"
http://www.healey.org

























_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:07:58 -0400
Subject: Re: LBC based holy war question...

If you want to tinker a lot, be uncomfortable, and be
scared witless in freeway traffic, then the MG wins
hands down IMO. The TR OTOH, is fairly bulletproof
once it's sorted out, and does trips much more
comfortably.

Now an MG TF1500 is a bit of both, so on looks alone,
this would be my choice. :^))

Really though, on an intellectual level, it comes
down to which one has the best quality parts/long
term availability.

GM
----- Original Message -----

> Ok folks,
>
>         I'm playing around with the idea of another
LBC in the garage.  It
> is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise
group's opinion on which
> one you would go for and why?
>
> Mike B
> 59 BT7



From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:04:14 -0700
Subject: RE: LBC based holy war question...

Hi Mike
I've never owned a TR3, but I owned a MGTC and a MGTD Mark II for ten years,
and drove the heck out of both daily to work and school during that time.
Mechanically speaking, I was very intimate with them both, and I was very
pleased with their reliability.  I now own a '59 BN7, and would NEVER EVER
go back.  Given your choices, unless you really desire a "T" series MG, I
would go for the TR3, specifically the 1957 and 58 (I think) TR3 with the
small mouth and disc brakes.  Rationale:  As an investment, I believe that
of the postwar "T" series cars, the TD is going to rise more slowly than the
TC, TF and TF1500.  IMHO, the only thing the TD has over the TC is the rack
and pinion steering, and IFS.  I could probably buy back my TD Mark II for
the same price I sold it for in 1987, so I think it's lost ground because of
the price of money over time.  If you observe the prices of TRs in general,
I think you will share my opinion that they are rising steadily.  I have a
close friend that wants a TR3a or b that is limited by money, and he's been
watching them get more and more expensive in one short year!  The collector
guides say if you are going to get a side curtain TR, you should get either
a long-door TR2, or a TR3b.  As a car to drive, I think that after your big
Healey, a TD will seem very underpowered.  The XPAG engine at 3700 rpm in a
TD feels like you are beating it up, and you are only doing  55/60 mph.  A
TR3 will certainly keep up with traffic, and again, IMHO, has a tougher
engine that revs freely without exotic modification.  Further, I'm a lurker
on the TR list, and I don't see the TR3 owners griping about anything except
for each other and the quality of reproduction parts.  If you can stomach
it, lurk on that list for awhile.  The Healey list will seem like a
seminary.

-----Original Message-----
From: M Brouillette [mailto:mbrouill@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 11:25 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: LBC based holy war question...



Ok folks,

        I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It 
is down to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which 
one you would go for and why?

Mike B
59 BT7 

From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:33:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

Gary:

I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
185-15 and not 70 series?
185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
search on that size you will come up empty
for all brands, performance categories and
speed ratings!
I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
I bought locally about a year ago and they do
not seem to be available any longer.
If you are interested in a 185/70 tire, and
Goodrich has one available as a lister
indicated (although Tire Rack doesn't show it
in their ads or on-line), I would go for it quickly.

Regards:
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: Tires, again!


>
>
> In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> << BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the
search
> engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
> would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
> tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
> choice.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed >>
> I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As
> many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.  I
> was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.
I
> suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack,
on
> line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
> Cheers
> Gary
>


From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:35:37 -0500
Subject: Re: LBC based holy war question...

Reid

Hate to disagree, I think the other lbc should be a Morgan.......mind you I'm
just a little bias.

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
'89 4/4


Reid Trummel wrote:

> On Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:24:48 -0400, M Brouillette wrote:
>
> << Ok folks,
> I'm playing around with the idea of another LBC in the garage.  It is down
> to a MGTD and a TR3.  Can I get this wise group's opinion on which one you
> would go for and why?
> Mike B
> 59 BT7 >>
>
> I'd go with the TR3.  It's a more driveable/usable car due to its ability to
> cruise at highway speeds without undue strain.  A nice TR3 is also generally
> available for less money than an equally nice TD.  The TR3 also has a
> distinguished competition history, and in fact was one of the competitors
> for the Healeys in the late 1950s and on into the 1960s in club racing.  The
> TR3 would also be a better contemporary counterpart to your '59 BT7 than a
> TD.
>
> By the way, a Bugeye would also make a great addition to your stable.  It's
> a very different driving experience from a Big Healey and a natural
> counterpart to your BT7.  As it says about the Bugeye in the model
> description on our website (http://www.healey.org/model-bugeye.shtml),
> "Would you like to own a fun, endearing, eminently affordable icon of the
> heyday of British sports cars? Your search is over."
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> '56 BN2 100M
> '56 BN2 100 w/Le Mans Kit
> '60 AN5 "Lucky"
> http://www.healey.org
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html


From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 16:59:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

British Wire Wheel in Santa Cruz, Ca. http://www.britishwirewheel.com/
carries Yoko A321's in 185/70/15 size.  I just purchased them a few months
ago. They also had a number of other selections in the same size at various
price points.   Great service too.     Randy

> Gary:
>
> I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
> 185-15 and not 70 series?
> 185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
> In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
> search on that size you will come up empty
> for all brands, performance categories and
> speed ratings!
> I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
> I bought locally about a year ago and they do
> not seem to be available any longer.
> If you are interested in a 185/70 tire, and
> Goodrich has one available as a lister
> indicated (although Tire Rack doesn't show it
> in their ads or on-line), I would go for it quickly.
>
> Regards:
> Tom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
> >
> > << BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the
> search
> > engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
> > would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
> > tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
> > choice.
> >
> > Kind regards
> > Ed >>
> > I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.
As
> > many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.
I
> > was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.
> I
> > suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack,
> on
> > line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
> > Cheers
> > Gary
> >
>
>


From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 17:33:28 -0700
Subject: G tech pro

Hi all,

Thinking of buying a G Tech Pro meter to see if various tune-up and
performance tweaks are measurable beyond the seat of my pants. Anyone on
the list use one?..like it?...recommend it?...

http://www.gtechpro.com/

note- it does require a cigarette lighter receptacle for power but I've
got one of those installed under the instrument panel.

Cheers,
John
BJ7

From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:22:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?

Maybe everyone just got tired of the posts that had nothing to do with our
beloved Austin Healeys.

----------
> From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> To: 
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?
> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:09 AM
> 
> 
> I have the same situation..
> --
> Regards,
> 
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 
> Coop1 wrote:
> 
> > I've only received 3 or 4 list messages in two days. Usually I would
have 3
> > or 4 dozen incoming. Is there a problem with the Healey List or is it
at my
> > end?    Coop
> 
> 
> 

From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:28:25 EDT
Subject: Re: G tech pro

In a message dated 10/24/2000 19:38:10 Central Daylight Time, 
loftusdesign@home.com writes:

<< Thinking of buying a G Tech Pro meter to see if various tune-up and
 performance tweaks are measurable beyond the seat of my pants. Anyone on
 the list use one?..like it?...recommend it?...
 
 http://www.gtechpro.com/
 
 note- it does require a cigarette lighter receptacle for power but I've
 got one of those installed under the instrument panel.
  >>
Hi John,
You must have been watching the ads on Spedvision.

I got one in a few days ago and haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

It does take some setting up, must be level and they say the any incline or 
decline will upset the measurements, all standard test are made on level 
ground.

What can it do?
1. 0-60 MPH
2. 60-0 MPH braking distance
3. 1/4 mile E.T.
4. 1/4 mile trap speed
5. Instantaneous G's
6. Continuous G's

Let you all know more when I get it up anf working
Don

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 20:52:48 -0500
Subject: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER

THE FIRST LUCKY KOOLER REIMBURSEMENT WINNER IS:

RANDALL HARRIS      SAN  FRANCISCO, CA

RANDY'S REIMBURSEMENT CHECK FROM THE NORTH TEXAS HEALEY CLUB WILL GO IN THE 
MAIL TOMORROW.

DON'T FORGET, THE KOOLER SPECIAL IS EXTENDED THROUGH NOV 15.  THERE WILL BE 
ANOTHER LUCKY REIMBURSEMENT WINNER,  SO GET YOUR ORDERS IN NOW.  CHECK IT OUT 
ON www.ntahc.austin1.com


From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 22:36:43 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Tires, again!


--part1_82.1eabf63.2727a13b_boundary




--part1_82.1eabf63.2727a13b_boundary
Content-Disposition: inline

Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <11.ac2c8bc.2727a10c@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 22:35:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires, again!
To: jnoblin1@my-deja.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 123

John,
Where do you live?  I don't find you listed in either AH Club Membership list.
I'm looking for four 72 spoke chrome/stainless wheels and will be in the 
market for tires to fit.  I think we have Tire Rack Stores in the S.F. Bay 
Area.
I imagine that I'll have to buy new 72 wires, since it's highly unlikely to 
find good used ones.
John
100-Six   Erika the Red
Walnut Creek, Ca


--part1_82.1eabf63.2727a13b_boundary--

From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 19:38:53 -0700
Subject: LBC based holy war question.

Our local British Car Club has a few of the TD types but they never come to
any of the rallys or meetings.  Everyone talks about their limited comfort
and speed.  I have never been in one but I do own a TR3A and it is fun to
drive.  It is weird enough looking to attract the stares but still usable as
a rally car.

I think the answer is buy what you want.  For some reason, I desire a XK140
but that may never happen.

Jerry
BN4
TR3A


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 00:33:14 EDT
Subject: LBC based holy war question.

I believe that this question -- TR3 vs MG-TD -- is a question that contains 
its own answer, though the answer will only be found deep inside the soul of 
the inquirer, grasshopper.

To resolve the question, all you need to do is find a nice example of each 
(you'll do that by locating your nearest local club, an important aspect of 
finding your answer in itself) and drive it for awhile.  In yourself you will 
then discover whether you're looking for a rational sports car of very solid 
utility (a TR3 won the novice class of the Great American Race last year -- 
story in next issue of British Car Magazine)--the TR3s are bullet-proof, can 
run forever at almost any desired rpm below red line, and can be fixed with 
baling wire, a big screwdriver, and an adjustable wrench. 

OR that you're looking for a strong taste of nostalgia totally unleavened 
with practicality. You'll know that immediately one way or another after 
driving the TD.  Either it will demand that you buy it or a sister car 
IMMEDIATELY, or you'll wander away wondering why you ever thought a TD was 
the right car for you.  

Of course, if you did want to compromise, you buy a Morgan +4 -- all the 
nostalgic good looks and quaint  discomfort of the TD coupled with the 
solidity of the Triumph drivetrain. 

And no matter what, it won't be a Miata or any thing quite so mindlessly 
rational.

Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine

From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 00:04:43 -0500
Subject: Re: G tech pro

WATCH THOSE G'S -- YOU MIGHT DIZZY AND PASS OUT.
----- Original Message -----

From: Drtrite@aol.com
To: loftusdesign@home.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: G tech pro
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 21:28:25 EDT

 
In a message dated 10/24/2000 19:38:10 Central Daylight Time,  
loftusdesign@home.com writes: 
 
<< Thinking of buying a G Tech Pro meter to see if various tune-up and 
 performance tweaks are measurable beyond the seat of my pants. Anyone on 
 the list use one?..like it?...recommend it?... 
  
 http://www.gtechpro.com/ 
  
 note- it does require a cigarette lighter receptacle for power but I've 
 got one of those installed under the instrument panel. 
  >> 
Hi John, 
You must have been watching the ads on Spedvision. 
 
I got one in a few days ago and haven't had a chance to try it out yet. 
 
It does take some setting up, must be level and they say the any incline or  
decline will upset the measurements, all standard test are made on level  
ground. 
 
What can it do? 
1. 0-60 MPH 
2. 60-0 MPH braking distance 
3. 1/4 mile E.T. 
4. 1/4 mile trap speed 
5. Instantaneous G's 
6. Continuous G's 
 
Let you all know more when I get it up anf working 
Don 



From "ray feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 00:31:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?

Maybe Mark just got tired of people like you whining about posts that
address other subjects not directly Healey related. Beloved? It's a car.
Beloved is wife, children, lover, friends. Get a life.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan. -- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?


>
> Maybe everyone just got tired of the posts that had nothing to do with our
> beloved Austin Healeys.
>
> ----------
> > From: Michael Salter <magicare@home.com>
> > To:
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Is the Healey list server working?
> > Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:09 AM
> >
> >
> > I have the same situation..
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Mike Salter
> > http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >
> > Coop1 wrote:
> >
> > > I've only received 3 or 4 list messages in two days. Usually I would
> have 3
> > > or 4 dozen incoming. Is there a problem with the Healey List or is it
> at my
> > > end?    Coop
> >
> >
> >
>


From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 07:44:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

Thomas,
I'm the one who posted about the 185 Goodrich TAs.  The Tire Rack guy told me 
that, whenever the aspect ratio is not shown, it is understood to be 70.  I 
assume he is correct since he's in the tire business, but you never know.  Does 
anyone out there know for sure?

Thanks,
John Noblin

>From: "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
>To: <Editorgary@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:33:38 -0400
>Reply-To: "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>Gary:
>
>I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
>185-15 and not 70 series?
>185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
>In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
>search on that size you will come up empty
>for all brands, performance categories and
>speed ratings!
>I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
>I bought locally about a year ago and they do
>not seem to be available any longer.
>If you are interested in a 185/70 tire, and
>Goodrich has one available as a lister
>indicated (although Tire Rack doesn't show it
>in their ads or on-line), I would go for it quickly.
>
>Regards:
>Tom
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:19 PM
>Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>
>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>>
>> << BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the
>search
>> engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
>> would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
>> tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
>> choice.
>>
>> Kind regards
>> Ed >>
>> I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As
>> many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.  I
>> was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.
>I
>> suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack,
>on
>> line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
>> Cheers
>> Gary
>>




------------------------------------------------------------
--== Sent via Deja.com <a href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> 
==--
Before you buy. 



From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:29:43 -0700
Subject: Re: G tech pro

Hi Don,

Yep, Speedvision it was. I did ask tech support a few questions about
the G Tech Pro. I was hoping it would give constant speedo readouts (for
calibrating/checking the in dash speedometer) but unfortunately this
model does not (maybe in the future). I also learned that knowing the
exact weight of the car and driver is very important including how much
gas is in the tank. I plan to go to the truck scales with a full tank to
get the weight and then fill up before doing any testing.

It also measures currently delivered and maximum delivered horse power
(rear wheel).

I went ahead and ordered one. I'm supposed to get a set of Roller
Rockers next week to test and want to get good before and after
measurements. Please let me know how your testing goes and I'll do the
same.

John

Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 10/24/2000 19:38:10 Central Daylight Time,
> loftusdesign@home.com writes:
> 
> << Thinking of buying a G Tech Pro meter to see if various tune-up and
>  performance tweaks are measurable beyond the seat of my pants. Anyone on
>  the list use one?..like it?...recommend it?...
> 
>  http://www.gtechpro.com/
> 
>  note- it does require a cigarette lighter receptacle for power but I've
>  got one of those installed under the instrument panel.
>   >>
> Hi John,
> You must have been watching the ads on Spedvision.
> 
> I got one in a few days ago and haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
> 
> It does take some setting up, must be level and they say the any incline or
> decline will upset the measurements, all standard test are made on level
> ground.
> 
> What can it do?
> 1. 0-60 MPH
> 2. 60-0 MPH braking distance
> 3. 1/4 mile E.T.
> 4. 1/4 mile trap speed
> 5. Instantaneous G's
> 6. Continuous G's
> 
> Let you all know more when I get it up anf working
> Don

From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:53:44 -0700
Subject: Re: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER

Hey!  That's fantastic. Last time I won something, I got nailed for a
$15,000 time share in Nevada :>)

I'd like you to send the check to your Texas club's favorite kid's charity.
If you don't have one, please send it made out to:

The San Francisco Clothing Bank
1000 Brannan Street #206
San Francisco, CA 94103

Thanks again.
Coop   aka  Randy Harris



----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 6:52 PM
Subject: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER


>
> THE FIRST LUCKY KOOLER REIMBURSEMENT WINNER IS:
>
> RANDALL HARRIS      SAN  FRANCISCO, CA
>
> RANDY'S REIMBURSEMENT CHECK FROM THE NORTH TEXAS HEALEY CLUB WILL GO IN
THE MAIL TOMORROW.
>
> DON'T FORGET, THE KOOLER SPECIAL IS EXTENDED THROUGH NOV 15.  THERE WILL
BE ANOTHER LUCKY REIMBURSEMENT WINNER,  SO GET YOUR ORDERS IN NOW.  CHECK IT
OUT ON www.ntahc.austin1.com
>
>



From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:55:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

John

I think that when the aspect ratio is not stated it is 75 or even 80.

BTW, someone posted that Tire Rack doesn't have a store in the Bay area - 
that's because Tire Rack is a mail-order operation, headquartered in South 
Bend, Indiana.

DickB

 ---- you wrote: 
> 
> Thomas,
> I'm the one who posted about the 185 Goodrich TAs.  The Tire Rack guy told me 
>that, whenever the aspect ratio is not shown, it is understood to be 70.  I 
>assume he is correct since he's in the tire business, but you never know.  
>Does anyone out there know for sure?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Noblin
> 
> >From: "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
> >To: <Editorgary@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Tires, again!
> >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:33:38 -0400
> >Reply-To: "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> >
> >Gary:
> >
> >I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
> >185-15 and not 70 series?
> >185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
> >In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
> >search on that size you will come up empty
> >for all brands, performance categories and
> >speed ratings!
> >I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
> >I bought locally about a year ago and they do
> >not seem to be available any longer.
> >If you are interested in a 185/70 tire, and
> >Goodrich has one available as a lister
> >indicated (although Tire Rack doesn't show it
> >in their ads or on-line), I would go for it quickly.
> >
> >Regards:
> >Tom
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:19 PM
> >Subject: Re: Tires, again!
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
> >>
> >> << BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the
> >search
> >> engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
> >> would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
> >> tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
> >> choice.
> >>
> >> Kind regards
> >> Ed >>
> >> I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As
> >> many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.  I
> >> was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.
> >I
> >> suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack,
> >on
> >> line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
> >> Cheers
> >> Gary
> >>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> --== Sent via Deja.com <a 
>href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> ==--
> Before you buy. 
> 
> 


----------------------------------------------------------------

From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:01:34 EDT
Subject: Re: G tech pro

In a message dated 10/25/2000 10:32:03 Central Daylight Time, 
loftusdesign@home.com writes:

<< I did ask tech support a few questions about
 the G Tech Pro. I was hoping it would give constant speedo readouts (for
 calibrating/checking the in dash speedometer) but unfortunately this
 model does not (maybe in the future). >>

Garmin makes a great little GPS that I have been using and the speedo and 
odometer are perfect. They have a web site also. Garmin GPS III Plus, you can 
upload city detailed maps to this model.

Don

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:03:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: Daimler Photos

Some of you will remember my chagrin when my beloved  - ;>) - Daimler SP250 was 
rear-ended and totalled a year ago.

Glen Patterson, of Thunder Bay, Ontario sent me these photos, which he had 
taken at a British Car Meet in Winnepeg, Manitoba in June 1999.  When I started 
to look at them I thought my SP had been reincarnated - until I realized that 
they were actually My Car.

I thought those of you who are not exactly familiar with the most beautiful of 
all the LBCs  would like to take a look-see.

DickB

----------------------------------------------------------------

From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 10:17:16 -0700
Subject: Re: G tech pro

At 09:01 AM 10/25/2000 , you wrote:

>In a message dated 10/25/2000 10:32:03 Central Daylight Time,
>loftusdesign@home.com writes:
>
><< I did ask tech support a few questions about
>  the G Tech Pro. I was hoping it would give constant speedo readouts (for
>  calibrating/checking the in dash speedometer) but unfortunately this
>  model does not (maybe in the future). >>
>
>Garmin makes a great little GPS that I have been using and the speedo and
>odometer are perfect. They have a web site also. Garmin GPS III Plus, you can
>upload city detailed maps to this model.
>
>Don
-----------------------
I wouldn't take the numbers from the GPS as the gospel Don. They are much 
more accurate then before May when the Pres. eliminated the DOP errors, but 
I've seen some wildly different numbers for accuracy on the exact same 
stretch of road over the course of a few weeks. There is a lot of good GPS 
info in the sci.geo.satellite-nav newsgroup, or here http://joe.mehaffey.com/.

BK


From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:27:30 -0600
Subject: missing factory ralley car

Listers,
 Someone was asking about the location of a "lost" Healey several weeks ago.
I had asked a friend about it and his response finally is that he recalled
the car being crashed in the Liege Rally in 1959 and was subsequently sold
to a firm in England by the name of Small and Parks. The driver had been
J.Burgess.
 I know, I'm a day late and a dollar short. Hope this helps, though.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{)  54 BN1

Click below for webpage and mopeds:
http://ibelong.koz.com/ibn/ignore?MIval=cge&GID=01039011420945892954943146


From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 12:21:42 +0000
Subject: BN1 Trafficator/Fuses

Where are you fellows getting your 50 amp fuses these days? They aren't 
available to me locally and the Moss catalog continues to show them not to
be in
stock.

Does anyone have a detailed electrical schematic/drawing of a BN1
horn switch/trafficator assembly at the steering wheel hub?

TIA, Ron

From dickb at cheerful.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 14:32:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Daimler Photos

Tom

I know, I know - as soon as I figure out how to Forward the jpegs,
which came to me as Attachments, I'll send them on.

Sorry but I'm barely literate on my Laptop

Dick


From "Grant, Michael" <mgrant at mossmotors.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:53:29 -0700
Subject: RE: BN1 Trafficator/Fuses

The 146-800 Fuses, 50 AMP are readily available- hundreds of them on the
shelf.

Michael Grant
67 BJ8, 61 MGA, 73 MGB GT
Information Systems, Moss Motors, Ltd
mgrant@mossmotors.com


From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 14:09:42 +0000
Subject: BN1 Trafficator/Fuses

Where are you fellows getting your 50 amp fuses these days? They aren't 
available to me locally and the Moss catalog continues to show them not to
be in
stock.

Does anyone have a detailed electrical schematic/drawing of a BN1
horn switch/trafficator assembly at the steering wheel hub?

TIA, Ron

From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 22:24:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Tires, again!


> Thomas,
> I'm the one who posted about the 185 Goodrich TAs.  The Tire Rack guy told
me >that, whenever the aspect ratio is not shown, it is understood to be 70.
I assume he >is correct since he's in the tire business

I find it hard to believe that with no aspect ratio shown then it is
understood to be 70!!!  Secondly, just because he is in the tire business
does not mean he knows what he is talking about here!!!

Sorry to be so cynical, but I have been burned too many times assuming.

Keith Pennell


From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 23:31:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Tires, again!


In a message dated 10/25/00 7:27:16 PM, pennell@whro.net writes:

<< I find it hard to believe that with no aspect ratio shown then it is

understood to be 70!!!  Secondly, just because he is in the tire business

does not mean he knows what he is talking about here!!! >>

While two of the hobby's major tire/wheel sources -- British Wire Wheel and 
Hendrix -- probably don't do in a year what Tire Rack does in an hour, both 
of them told me that if the ratio wasn't stated, it was 80.  According to 
them, a 70 tire ratio would be indicated in the catalog and on the sidewall.  
Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on the Healeys, 
Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

From "Jorge Lozano" <jmlozano at ismi.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 23:47:36 -0400
Subject: Re: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER

Wow! that is very nice of you to do that.
I will match your donation.  Let me know were the check has to be written
to.

Jorge
60 3000-driven 30 miles, don't trust the knock-offs
74 TR6-set-up for autocrossing
85 Rx7-ITS race car...stress reliever
90 Probe-the ugly duckling
95 Ford Lightning-The Beast
97 Odyssey-The Baby Hauler
00 Sable-It sucks


----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER


>
> Hey!  That's fantastic. Last time I won something, I got nailed for a
> $15,000 time share in Nevada :>)
>
> I'd like you to send the check to your Texas club's favorite kid's
charity.
> If you don't have one, please send it made out to:
>
> The San Francisco Clothing Bank
> 1000 Brannan Street #206
> San Francisco, CA 94103
>
> Thanks again.
> Coop   aka  Randy Harris
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 6:52 PM
> Subject: FIRST TEXAS KOOLER LOTTERY WINNER
>
>
> >
> > THE FIRST LUCKY KOOLER REIMBURSEMENT WINNER IS:
> >
> > RANDALL HARRIS      SAN  FRANCISCO, CA
> >
> > RANDY'S REIMBURSEMENT CHECK FROM THE NORTH TEXAS HEALEY CLUB WILL GO IN
> THE MAIL TOMORROW.
> >
> > DON'T FORGET, THE KOOLER SPECIAL IS EXTENDED THROUGH NOV 15.  THERE WILL
> BE ANOTHER LUCKY REIMBURSEMENT WINNER,  SO GET YOUR ORDERS IN NOW.  CHECK
IT
> OUT ON www.ntahc.austin1.com
> >
> >
>
>


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 06:28:55 -0700
Subject: RE: BN1 Trafficator/Fuses

Actually, we have tons of 50 amp fuses in stock @ $0.75 each.

Jonathan Lane


From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:59:44 -0400
Subject: More tires

Gary wrote: "Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on
the Healeys,
Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80."

I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
aspect ratio is that is usable here?

Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb


From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 12:11:30 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Trafficator

Speaking of trafficators, there is one on eBay currently.
Perry

From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 09:57:56 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Trafficator

The trafficator on ebay is from a 100-SIX. What is the difference between
this and one from a Hundred? (bn1 or 2)

Brad
'55 Hundred
BN1 #226796



From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 13:20:05 EDT
Subject: Re: More tires

In a message dated 10/26/00 7:56:25 AM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:

<< I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
aspect ratio is that is usable here?

Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb >>

The tire size thing does confuse a lot of people.

The aspect ratio is the number as a percentage of the tire width. Ergo, a 
185/70 tire has a height of 70% of 195mm.

Yeah it gets worse as we are using a metric width on an inch rim size, then a 
percentage.

For a very comprehensive chart (though it doesn't cover the various 
manufacturers differences in size) the Miata website has an interactive chart 
that shows sidewall, radius, diameter, circumference, and revs/mile at: 
http://www.miatanet/garage/tirecalc.html

I know a lot of you cannot separate the page from it's association with 
Miatas, but try for a moment to step outside yourself and look at the data, 
it may be helpfull.

Rick
San Diego
I have no Miata, but I do respect them on some level.

From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 10:28:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

Toyo makes a 195/75R15  model  800+ that is available in Canada. It is close
in diameter to the original. I have not found them here in California. Jim
BT7, BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Mulligan <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: Tires, again!


>
>Gary:
>
>I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
>185-15 and not 70 series?
>185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
>In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
>search on that size you will come up empty
>for all brands, performance categories and
>speed ratings!
>I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
>I bought locally about a year ago and they do
>not seem to be available any longer.
>If you are interested in a 185/70 tire, and
>Goodrich has one available as a lister
>indicated (although Tire Rack doesn't show it
>in their ads or on-line), I would go for it quickly.
>
>Regards:
>Tom
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 11:19 PM
>Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>
>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 10/22/00 10:03:15 AM, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>>
>> << BJ8s on 5.5inch wheels are tires with a 185/70 profile.  With the
>search
>> engine on Listquest down removing the archives from access I thought I
>> would ask for advice - I have 5.5" 72 spoke wheels so my question is
>> tire preference (manufacture)  and profile preference and why the
>> choice.
>>
>> Kind regards
>> Ed >>
>> I was at a Triumph meet this last weekend, with about 150 cars there.  As
>> many of you know, the TR6 was originally equipped with 185/70x15 tires.
I
>> was amazed at the number of different radial type brands of tires I saw.
>I
>> suspect if you went to one of the bigger tire suppliers, like tire rack,
>on
>> line, you might find at least five or six different brands in that size.
>> Cheers
>> Gary
>>
>
>


From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 13:04:54 -0500
Subject: Re: More tires

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------94990A8D5473C9B1E52C764C

The correct web site is http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

WilKo@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 10/26/00 7:56:25 AM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
>
> << I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
> ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
> aspect ratio is that is usable here?
>
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb >>
>
> The tire size thing does confuse a lot of people.
>
> The aspect ratio is the number as a percentage of the tire width. Ergo, a
> 185/70 tire has a height of 70% of 195mm.
>
> Yeah it gets worse as we are using a metric width on an inch rim size, then a
> percentage.
>
> For a very comprehensive chart (though it doesn't cover the various
> manufacturers differences in size) the Miata website has an interactive chart
> that shows sidewall, radius, diameter, circumference, and revs/mile at:
> http://www.miatanet/garage/tirecalc.html
>
> I know a lot of you cannot separate the page from it's association with
> Miatas, but try for a moment to step outside yourself and look at the data,
> it may be helpfull.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
> I have no Miata, but I do respect them on some level.

--------------94990A8D5473C9B1E52C764C
 name="aschultz.vcf"
Content-Description: Card for Alan Schultz
Content-Disposition: attachment;
 filename="aschultz.vcf"

begin:vcard 
n:Schultz;Alan
tel;fax:608-262-5316
tel;work:608-263-7332
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
org:UW System;Capital Planning & Budget
version:2.1
email;internet:aschultz@uwsa.edu
title:Senior Mechanical Engineer
adr;quoted-printable:;;780 Regent St.=0D=0AP.O. Box 8010;Madison;WI;53708;Dane
fn:Alan Schultz
end:vcard

--------------94990A8D5473C9B1E52C764C--


From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 13:06:18 -0500
Subject: Re: More tires

hi lee-

the formula is:  the taller the tire, the more gound clearance your bt7 will 
have.

happy healeying,

jerry
----- Original Message -----

From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: More tires
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:59:44 -0400

 
Gary wrote: "Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on 
the Healeys, 
Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80." 
 
I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the 
ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever 
aspect ratio is that is usable here? 
 
Lee 
'62 BT7 Tri-carb 
 



From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 14:20:33 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Trafficator


The usual, non adjustable 100 style is the same as the 100/6 adjustable other
than the signal lever and the horn button. They are mounted on different base
plates also, one being the adjustable style and the other not.
The one on E bay is a 100/6 adjustable style and is the same as the 3000
adjustable other than the horn button.
--
Regards,

Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Brad Weldon wrote:

> The trafficator on ebay is from a 100-SIX. What is the difference between
> this and one from a Hundred? (bn1 or 2)
>
> Brad
> '55 Hundred
> BN1 #226796
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Healeyguy@aol.com
> > Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 11:12 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: BN1 Trafficator
> >
> >
> >
> > Speaking of trafficators, there is one on eBay currently.
> > Perry
> >


From "Lane, Jonathan" <lanej at mossmotors.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 11:29:45 -0700
Subject: Top frames.

When I bought my BN7 it came with a top frame, header rail and a convertible
top that had never been installed, that I pretty much assumed were the right
ones for the car.  Once I actually started thinking about it I realized they
were wrong.  It is a Grey 2 piece frame that does not attach to the header
rail.  I think they are for an early BN4.  

First of all, does anyone have a use for this top assembly?  As I said, the
top has never been installed, but there is a small tear from sitting around
for 15 years.

Secondly, does anyone have a top assembly for a BN7?  I know I could get the
stuff new but I'm heading off to college and feeling cheap.

Thanks!

Jonathan Lane


From Mauser9 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 14:57:13 EDT
Subject: Healey Advice

I have a 62 AH3000 MK II.  I am looking for a professional  shop to put it on 
the road again. It needs paint and a little body work, interior and some 
mechanical work.  Im located  near Laughlin NV so Las Vegas, Phoenix and Los 
Angles area is an option. Does anyone have some good recommendations for a 
quality shop?  The only place I have found on the internet so far that looks 
good to me is: British Car Specialists in Stockton CA. I have not contacted 
them as yet in the hope there might be a place of equal talent closer to 
home.  Any help would be appreciated.

Don 

From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 15:22:53 -0400
Subject: Re-torquing Head

I remember having to re-torque my head after a certain mileage, when 
I rebuilt my engine years ago;
I recently replaced the head gasket...should I be torquing the head 
again at "X" mileage?
Stephen, BJ8

From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 15:38:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Re-torquing Head

Stephen:  Usualy you do not need to retorque the cylinder with the new head 
gasket materials today.  The proper torque for the healey cylinder head is 75 
lbs cold . If you are getting some sepage from the gasket area I would say 
that you would need to but not otherwise. I would also recomend using a 
bottle of irontite radiator sealer in the coooing system .


David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  

From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 16:12:03 EDT
Subject: Re: More tires


In a message dated 10/26/00 7:55:25 AM, lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:

<< 
I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
aspect ratio is that is usable here? >>

The aspect ratio is the ratio between the tread and sidewall height and the 
sidewall cross-section width. If you take the sidewall width, converted to 
inches, and multiply it times the aspect ratio, that gives you the distance 
from wheel rim to surface of tread. Double that and add it to the wheel 
diameter, and you have the diameter of the tire and wheel.  Course, you have 
to adjust a little bit for bulge, especially on radials.  On the other hand, 
if your BT7 is way too low when mounted with normal current tires -- say a 
165xor 185x70R15, then your springs may have sprung and you will need to 
think first about replacing your springs.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine

From =?utf-8?B?Rm91cm5pZXIsIFBhdWwgSC4=?= <Paul.Fournier at alcoa.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 16:17:01 -0400
Subject: =?utf-8?B?TW9yZSB0aXJlcyAtLSByaWRlIGhlaWdodA==?=

Lee;

My '62 BT7 Tri-carb was pretty low untill I replaced the springs all around.
There was a pronounced difference in the wheel well height at the rear end,
so I knew that at least one of the springs was shot.  After I replaced all
four (took the better part of 25 or so hours over a week) the left rear was
almost 2" higher and darn near level side-to-side.  I went from being barely
able to stick three fingers under the muffler to being able to slide my
whole hand under it.

The car is shod w/ 165-15 Michelin XZX's.

Cheers.

Paul
'62 BT7 Tricarb
San Antonio, TX




Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:59:44 -0400
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
Subject: More tires

Gary wrote: "Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on
the Healeys,
Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80."

I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
aspect ratio is that is usable here?

Lee
'62 BT7 Tri-carb



From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 14:05:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Re-torquing Head

"Irontite radiator sealer in the cooling system" Could you elaborate on
that, is it a block sealer?...Neil


----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <hutching@the-wire.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: Re-torquing Head


>
> Stephen:  Usualy you do not need to retorque the cylinder with the new
head
> gasket materials today.  The proper torque for the healey cylinder head is
75
> lbs cold . If you are getting some sepage from the gasket area I would say
> that you would need to but not otherwise. I would also recomend using a
> bottle of irontite radiator sealer in the coooing system .
>
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif.  95205
> 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at       <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>


From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 17:30:32 EDT
Subject: Fwd: More tires


--part1_7a.bc2a891.2729fc78_boundary


In a message dated 10/26/00 1:36:50 PM, WilKo writes:

<< 
In a message dated 10/26/00 1:35:17 PM, pennell@whro.net writes:

<< 70% of 195 or 70% of 185?


Keith Pennell

> The aspect ratio is the number as a percentage of the tire width. Ergo, a

> 185/70 tire has a height of 70% of 195mm.

> Rick

> San Diego

> I have no Miata, but I do respect them on some level.

 >>

I'm a mess...

percentage of the size indicated...195: 70% of 195... >>


--part1_7a.bc2a891.2729fc78_boundary
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From: WilKo@aol.com
Full-name: WilKo
Message-ID: <a9.cd8b9b0.2729efe2@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 16:36:50 EDT
Subject: Re: More tires
To: pennell@whro.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL for Macintosh sub 7


In a message dated 10/26/00 1:35:17 PM, pennell@whro.net writes:

<< 70% of 195 or 70% of 185?


Keith Pennell

> The aspect ratio is the number as a percentage of the tire width. Ergo, a

> 185/70 tire has a height of 70% of 195mm.

> Rick

> San Diego

> I have no Miata, but I do respect them on some level.

 >>

I'm a mess...

percentage of the size indicated...195: 70% of 195...

--part1_7a.bc2a891.2729fc78_boundary--

From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 17:42:22 -0400
Subject: Re: More tires -- ride height

Thanks for the response.  My driver's side rear is about an inch and a half
lower than the pax side.  The Healey Surgeon tells me that even the RHD cars
end up with the same tilt.  It is because the car is torqued in that
direction every time you hit the gas.
I, too, plan on replacing at least the rear springs very soon.  In fact, the
car is on rear jack stands awaiting penetrating oil in preparation.
How tough a job would be replacing the rear springs?  A local mechanic has
almost scared me out of it with comments about how hard it was to get the
old springs off.
Where did you buy the new ones?
I currently have Dunlop P185/65 R15 tires.  They have hardly any wear, but
I'll do anything to prevent bottoming out every time the car passes over a
driveway edge!
Lee




From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 17:54:41 -0400
Subject: Fw: More tires -- ride height


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
To: <Fournier>; "Paul H." <Paul.Fournier@alcoa.com>
Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: More tires -- ride height


> Thanks for the response.  My driver's side rear is about an inch and a
half
> lower than the pax side.  The Healey Surgeon tells me that even the RHD
cars
> end up with the same tilt.  It is because the car is torqued in that
> direction every time you hit the gas.
> I, too, plan on replacing at least the rear springs very soon.  In fact,
the
> car is on rear jack stands awaiting penetrating oil in preparation.
> How tough a job would be replacing the rear springs?  A local guy has
> almost scared me out of it with comments about how hard it was to get the
> old springs off.
> Where did you buy the new ones?
> I currently have Dunlop P185/65 R15 tires.  They have hardly any wear, but
> I'll do anything to prevent bottoming out every time the car passes over a
> driveway edge!
> Lee
>
>
>


From PRafe at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 17:49:22 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 Frame work

Will be starting to rebuild the frame on the BN2 and need exact dim
for all the frount mounts ect.  Could anyone tell me a good one to get 
Thanks 
Peter Rafe
BJ8
BN2

From "John Noblin" <jnoblin1 at my-deja.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 09:32:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

You are all correct, and so was the guy at Tire Rack.  I checked my notes and 
he said 75, not 70.

My bad.

John Noblin.

>From: Editorgary@aol.com
>Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 23:31:08 EDT
>Subject: Re: Tires, again!
>Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
>
>
>
>In a message dated 10/25/00 7:27:16 PM, pennell@whro.net writes:
>
><< I find it hard to believe that with no aspect ratio shown then it is
>
>understood to be 70!!!  Secondly, just because he is in the tire business
>
>does not mean he knows what he is talking about here!!! >>
>
>While two of the hobby's major tire/wheel sources -- British Wire Wheel and 
>Hendrix -- probably don't do in a year what Tire Rack does in an hour, both 
>of them told me that if the ratio wasn't stated, it was 80.  According to 
>them, a 70 tire ratio would be indicated in the catalog and on the sidewall.  
>Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on the Healeys, 
>Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson




------------------------------------------------------------
--== Sent via Deja.com <a href="http://www.deja.com/";>http://www.deja.com/</a> 
==--
Before you buy. 



From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:53:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Advice

Don,
If you don't find something closer to home, I can vouch for British Car 
Specialists.  They really know Austin Healeys and have done some recent award 
winning restorations.
John
100-Six  Erika the Red



From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:38:22 -0400
Subject: Re: More tires

For an easier to use tire size calculator try
http://pw1.netcom.com/~sgalaba/tiresize.htm



Jerry Wall wrote:
> 
> hi lee-
> 
> the formula is:  the taller the tire, the more gound clearance your bt7 will 
>have.
> 
> happy healeying,
> 
> jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
> From: "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs@cox.rr.com>
> To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: More tires
> Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:59:44 -0400
> 
> 
> Gary wrote: "Just for reference, the original 5.90x15 that was mounted on
> the Healeys,
> Volkswagens, etc. had an aspect ratio of 80."
> 
> I'm very interested in this tire thread as my BT7 is way too low to the
> ground.  Is there some math relationship between radius, width and what ever
> aspect ratio is that is usable here?
> 
> Lee
> '62 BT7 Tri-carb
>

From LBCarNut <LBCarNut at carolina.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 20:41:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Tires, again!

Hendix wire wheel has the 185/70 15's listed.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/tires.html

Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
59 Bugeye
59 100-6

Jim Briske wrote:
> 
> Toyo makes a 195/75R15  model  800+ that is available in Canada. It is close
> in diameter to the original. I have not found them here in California. Jim
> BT7, BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Mulligan <tpmul@worldnet.att.net>
> To: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 4:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Tires, again!
> 
> >
> >Gary:
> >
> >I thought the original tires on the TR6 were
> >185-15 and not 70 series?
> >185/70-15 tires are very difficult to find.
> >In fact if you go on-line at Tire Rack and
> >search on that size you will come up empty
> >for all brands, performance categories and
> >speed ratings!
> >I run 185/70-15 Yokohama A321s which
> >