No, the only importent thing is if ya got the proper harse fer
tredin'.........time and space can be overcome...........Cheers Henry
----- Original Message -----
From: JustBrits <justbrits@mediaone.net>
To: dos_gusanos <dos_gusanos@email.msn.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: BN7 Hardtop will Trade for BT7 Hardtop
> Gee, Henry:
>
> The "poor pun" was bad enough, but don't ya think say WHERE the thing is
> borders on IMPORTENT??
>
> Geesh.
>
> Ed
>
> PS: If it's in Ontario, CA...........
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 11:22:37 -0500
Subject: pegasus
Since I recently joined the Northeast of the AHCA I have received a few
new catalogues, which I look at and throw away, but the other day a
received a catalogue from Pegasus auto racing supplies (
www.pegasusautoracing.com ) and
on page 97 I found Gerling master cylinders with and without intregal
reservoirs.They appear to be identical to the master and slave cylinder
in my Bn4, with a price of $75.00 .If this is old new or they aren't the
same I apologize for clogging the list
Dennis Broughel
Bn4 -45281
From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:16:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
California Listers:
I posted the "legislator finder" links as follows:
> Senate: http://www.sen.ca.gov/~newsen/senators/yoursenator.htp
> Assembly: http://www.assembly.ca.gov/acs/acsframeset9text.htm
I've since played with them a bit, making some interesting discoveries.
The Assembly's requires javascript and gives you a map. The Senate's just
gives you
links, but links to BOTH your senator and assemblyman.
Neither are necessarily accurate. I live on a border for both the Senate and
the
Assembly. Each finder gives me the wrong reps. (So, of course, I wrote to all
four
of them on the premise their staffers won't know either.)
Regards,
Pete
From rscaglione at safjp.gov.ar
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:54:01 -0300
Subject: test
sorry !
test message
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:48:34 -0500
Subject: Re: pegasus
Dennis,
Those cylinders are what Girling calls "rationalized" because they list them
by bore size and reservoir location rather than part number. They are
dimensionally identical to original but will differ in one respect (or more)
that is not vital for their function. Usually this is in the push rod
length or configuration, and when you buy one it will bolt onto the car fine
but you will have to use the push rod from your old cylinder. The
rationalized cylinder for the BJ8 brake master has a different piston, so
the old push rod must be modified to fit, or the old piston re-used in the
new cylinder with a new seal. If you don't mind not getting a new push rod,
the price is certainly right, as the rationalized cylinders sell for much
less than the originals with the correct push rod.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 11:22 AM
Subject: pegasus
>
> Since I recently joined the Northeast of the AHCA I have received a few
> new catalogues, which I look at and throw away, but the other day a
> received a catalogue from Pegasus auto racing supplies (
> www.pegasusautoracing.com ) and
> on page 97 I found Gerling master cylinders with and without intregal
> reservoirs.They appear to be identical to the master and slave cylinder
> in my Bn4, with a price of $75.00 .If this is old new or they aren't the
> same I apologize for clogging the list
> Dennis Broughel
> Bn4 -45281
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:27:25 EST
Subject: Early light sockets
Ok, guys. For all you pack-rats like me. I am looking for some original,
used, side/tail light sockets as used on the 100s. They can be distinguished
from the more common recent, and available as new, ones as follows:
1) They have little spring clips to hold the wires to the two "hot"
terminals. The more common style, and what is available new these days, has
rolled loops into which bullets are pressed. The GROUND connection on both
the older style I'm searching for and the newer ones are identical -- rolled
loops. It is only the hot terminals that differ.
2) If you look at the contacts inside the bulb holders they are circular.
On the later style they are sort of football shaped.
If you have any of these sockets in good condition and would be willing to
part with them, that's great. Even if they have only one good spring clip I
can use them to make up good ones.
Please let me know if anyone can help.
Thanks,
Roger
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:51:16 -0500
Subject: Fluorescent light Q
Listers,
This is non-Healey so delete if not interested.
Admittedly the only thing regarding electricity of which I am certain is that
I am a conductor. I have unintentionally proved that on a few occasions.
Have a 24 inch fluorescent fixture which had been buzzing for several months.
Finally made up my mind to do something about it. Replaced the ballast with
new. The light would not come on with the switch turned on. Replaced the
bulb with new. The light still would not come on when switch turned on.
However, it will come on when I touch the bulb about 4 inches from one end.
Electricians - what is going on here? Why won't the ^#**^*#@%# thing come on
when switched on? Most all of the wiring is near the bulb if that matters.
Many thanks for any help
Keith Pennell
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:26:50 EST
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light Q
In a message dated 03/01/2001 6:53:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Electricians - what is going on here? Why won't the ^#**^*#@%# thing come
on
when switched on? Most all of the wiring is near the bulb if that matters.
>>
Simple! You have somehow let the smoke out. ;o)
If your light is like mine (That sears special) you probably have a contact
problem. Mine stopped working years ago, and when I took it apart, found
nothing wrong. Frustrated, I reassembled it so I would not have a work bench
full of light parts, and it magically started working again.
I'm thinking that the Mickey-mouse wiring inside the thing had a loose
connector somewhere, and the movement of disassembly and reassembly allowed
the contact to fix itself.
The buzzing symptom you talked about could be this. The wire had split, but
only just enough so that the electricity could still arc across the wire.
Now, it doesn't work since you moved the wire and opened up the gap beyond
the potential for electricity to jump across. However, when you touch the
bulb, the wire moves slightly, it closes that gap and the light comes on.
My suggestions are these:
1. Check the wires to see if they have continuity across them.
2. Shop lights are cheap. Chuck the thing before you lose sleep and buy a
new one.
Tim Wallace
Fuquay-Varina, NC
Mysteriously working drop light
From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 19:38:13 EST
Subject: Universal Laminations top for Austin-Healey 100
Does anyone on this list have a concourse condition Universal Laminations
hardtop, with the side curtains, for a 100 .
I am looking for one to photograph for a book.
Thanks, and
Happy Healeying
Bill Emerson
OldHealeys@aol.com
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 21:50:04 -0500
Subject: Carpets in general
There were some recent comments on Moss carpets. Can I throw out a more
general question and ask for recommendations on other sources.
customers.
Some of the carpets Ive seen recently seem cheap looking with too much
shiny nylon and crude bindings. AH Spares do a very nice "Jaguar"
quality version but its pricey.
Any other recommendations from satisfied customers???
The comments on Moss concerned the black colour, but are people
generally happy with the quality and fit??
cheers
Derek
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 00:04:50 -0500
Subject: Top Straps`
Hi,
I am finishing up my top. I bought the Moss video but it
does not address the way the web straps on the inside of the top
should be attached to the wood bow at the front of the top.
I found one picture in restoring healeys. but it only shows the
straps going above the frame of the top.
Any help or directions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road in July
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 17:26:12 +0800
Subject: Re: Carpets in general
Derek
I have just installed a carpet set from SC Parts for my BT7. The quality was
excellent. ( a wool blend carpet) and the cutting and finishing was good
also. When I enquired from AH Spares they advised they only had fully
synthetic carpets.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 almost.
----- Original Message -----
From: "D Job" <djob@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Carpets in general
>
> There were some recent comments on Moss carpets. Can I throw out a more
> general question and ask for recommendations on other sources.
> customers.
>
> Some of the carpets Ive seen recently seem cheap looking with too much
> shiny nylon and crude bindings. AH Spares do a very nice "Jaguar"
> quality version but its pricey.
>
> Any other recommendations from satisfied customers???
>
> The comments on Moss concerned the black colour, but are people
> generally happy with the quality and fit??
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 04:59:44 -0800
Subject: Topping up rear axle oil
I've got some good pointers from the archive on topping up the oil in the
rear axle, but I'm left with a question. Is it absolutely necessary to have
the car level? I've got the rear of the car up on stands with the front
wheels on the ground and chocked. I was thinking of topping up the rear
axle oil, leaving the filler plug out, lowering the car (to allow excess oil
to drain out the filler hole), raising the rear of the car again and
replacing the filler plug.
Good idea or not?
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 09:10:06 -0500
Subject: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
What's the stuff that you can get to seal a gas tank from the inside???
How do you use it??
Is it recommended to do this?
where can I get the stuff??
I have a old gas tank on my car right now that I fixed 20 years ago and
has gone bad again. (rusted out) I do have another tank I got from a
3000 parts car that
is pretty good. It just has a plugged outlet tube that I have to clean
out. The tank seams to be in good shape, minimal rust etc...
I'm just wondering before I put it in the car if I should seal the tank
from the inside or not?? Thanks Todd
Also I need to get some of that rust proofing paint or sealer for the
frame and floors , tank etc... what is recommended??
POR-15 ??? who has the best price? any other recommendations???
Thanks
59 100-6
80 MGB Limited
96 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 09:42:59 EST
Subject: Re: Top Straps`
The top straps are fixed to the wood of the front bow by drawing them across
its top and stapling/tacking just above the bottom of the front edge. I find
that in fitting a top, it works well to lay the staps over the bow and pull
and tack the top's front edge, leaving a 3" gap where the straps come
through. Then, with the rear bow to which the straps attach located
properly, pull the straps taught and then tack throught he front edge of the
top and straps together. After all is right, trim and hide the front edge
with the hidum strip.
Roger
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 09:27:17 -0600
Subject: Healey horn parts.
I am just wondering if anyone can tell me if a part for the horns on the
Hundred is available anywhere? The part that I need is the rubber part
on the back of the horn that surrounds the incoming wires. It is a piece
of molded rubber that is flat with two parts that come up to surround
the wires and look to be to keep water out of the electrical area.
If anyone has any info if these are available as NOS or reproduction or
a replacement product, please let me know.
Thanks.
Ward Stebner
P.S. I need two if available.(I know I'm probably dreaming but
hey, that's what my Healey ownership has been about so far!)
From "Joseph F. Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 11:03:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
Had a friend who sealed his tank prior to a 1,000 trip to conclave. Upon
arrival he found that the sealer had come loose and the tank was
unusable. For the return trip home he ran a 5 gallon tank from the back
seat to the engine. Dangerous. I have replaced tanks in both of my
Healey's. 40 years life for a tank is enough.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 100
1660 3000
At 09:10 AM 3/2/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>healeys@autox.team.net
From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 10:57:32 -0600
Subject: Horn parts
Good Morning Ward
Hope it's warm at your end of Spadina <grin>! Try the following
sites http://holden.co.uk or http://rimers.co.uk. If you want to
look at Holdens catalogue (hardcopy) I have it.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8 (dreaming of driving in the desert or at least re-running
the mental images)
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 09:49:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
Do not do this yourself. Things can go wrong. At best the sealant will
break loose and plug up your fuel line. At worst leaks, fires, etc. (don't
forget out gas tanks are an inch from the battery.) There are professionals
that can clean, strip and re-seal your tank for years of safe use. I know
of one in San Diego. There should be one in your area.
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Todd S Taylor wrote:
> What's the stuff that you can get to seal a gas tank from the inside???
> How do you use it??
> Is it recommended to do this?
> where can I get the stuff??
>
> I have a old gas tank on my car right now that I fixed 20 years ago and
> has gone bad again. (rusted out) I do have another tank I got from a
> 3000 parts car that
> is pretty good. It just has a plugged outlet tube that I have to clean
> out. The tank seams to be in good shape, minimal rust etc...
> I'm just wondering before I put it in the car if I should seal the tank
> from the inside or not?? Thanks Todd
>
> Also I need to get some of that rust proofing paint or sealer for the
> frame and floors , tank etc... what is recommended??
> POR-15 ??? who has the best price? any other recommendations???
> Thanks
>
> 59 100-6
> 80 MGB Limited
> 96 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 13:14:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Overdrive (long)
Many thanks to all who responded. I removed the relay and sanded the
points. I also wire brushed all the terminal connections, and even got the
paint off of the covers. Now the nice brown color of the surface is
visible, I then hit them with some clear lacquer. The relay and throttle
switch look brand new at this point. I played with the settings on the
throttle switch a little more last night and I may have finally got it
going. The test comes this afternoon after work, I'll take her out again
and see what happens. All I really did was a major cleaning of all the
parts involved. Thanks for all the help in trying to debug it, it was
driving me crazy.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 4:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Overdrive (long)
>But when voltage is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact
Hi, Steve -
I would bet that you have a bad overdrive relay. The internal contacts of
the relay are probably stuck closed. If the relay contacts are stuck
closed, then 12 volts will be supplied to BOTH sides of the throttle switch
whenever the ignition switch is on and the NORMAL-O/D switch on the dash is
in the O/D position. Also, 12 volts will be supplied to the overdrive
solenoid through the gear lever switch regardless of the position of the
dash switch OR the throttle switch and the overdrive will be electrically
engaged.
You can take the relay apart to examine the internal contacts, and perhaps
clean them up if they are burned and stuck.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:59 AM
Subject: Overdrive(long)
>Now for the problem, I have printed most of the archives concerning the
>overdrive, but I still need some help. During my drive I tried using the
>overdrive. And it works, but there is a problem, it will not disengage. I
>think I've tracked the problem to the throttle switch, but I can't seem to
>get it set correctly. When I think it's set properly, smoke begins to flow
>from either under the dash or the voltage box.. not good. I've
disassembled
>the switch and noticed it's just a set of points. When I OHM it, it works
>as expected, continuity until the points are separated. But when voltage
is
>supplied it goes to both sides even though the points are not making
>contact. Anybody have a clue.. Should I bite the bullet and get a new one,
>anything else I can try.. Thanks,
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
>PS.. checking the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, tells me I have a
>100-6 wiring scheme in the car.. could this be correct or is the book in
>error?
From BN4L at aol.com
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 14:01:56 EST
Subject: Re: Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
In a message dated 2/26/2001 7:58:51 PM Pacific Standard Time, ian@Remedy.COM
writes:
> You can add my car to the list of transitional BN4's with a metallic green
> engine.
>
> Number: 59379
> Built: March 6-10 1958
>
> Ian Nelson
> Cupertino, CA
>
>
>
>
> Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 18:53:07 -0500
> From: D Job <djob@home.com>
> Subject: 100-Sixs Morris Green Engines
>
> Rick Lees recently posted details of his 1958 100-Six ('MM'). It is
> number 58563 with a build date of March 6th 1958. This makes it one of
> the first batch of BN4 cars made in early 1958 before production
> switched to only BN6's. These BN4's are the transitional cars built at
> Abingdon but with the Lonbridge features, such as single washer, sliding
> top mechanism and different interiors to the later cars. They have the
> six port head and were all thought to have the Morris Green engines
> probably due to an error. However Ricks car is original and has the
> metallic green engine colour.
>
> My car # is 56053 built mid Jan 1958. Does anyone out there have a
> 100-Six with the Morris Green engine paint with a car number between
> mine and Ricks? Interested to know when they changed to the metallic
> green paint.
>
>
> cheers Derek
> 100-Six WebSite
> http//members.home.net/djob
>
>
> My BN4, 56032, was built 17 - 20 1958, and has the Morris Green engine.
Art Hill
Escondido, CA
'58 100-6 BN4 A-H "Mille Miglia"
'66 TR6R Triumph Tiger
'96 R1100RT BMW
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:07:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Topping up rear axle oil
Hi, Tom -
That's exactly how I do it. If you overfill it and put the plug back in (as
I did once), it will drain itself past the pinion seal into a puddle under
the car.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, North Carolina USA
-----Original Message-----
From: TBanks@LEVI.com <TBanks@LEVI.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 02, 2001 8:13 AM
Subject: Topping up rear axle oil
>
>I've got some good pointers from the archive on topping up the oil in the
>rear axle, but I'm left with a question. Is it absolutely necessary to
have
>the car level? I've got the rear of the car up on stands with the front
>wheels on the ground and chocked. I was thinking of topping up the rear
>axle oil, leaving the filler plug out, lowering the car (to allow excess
oil
>to drain out the filler hole), raising the rear of the car again and
>replacing the filler plug.
>
>Good idea or not?
>
>Rgds,
>Tom Banks
>Belgium
>'64 BJ8
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 11:32:47 -0600
Subject: Cars and Baseball
Not Healey Related. Delete if not interested. TR7 advertisement in
Dodgers'76 scorecard.
I have a 1976 LA Dodgers scorecard with a picture of Don Sutton on the
front. In the back is an advertisement for the "new" 77 TR7. (Also some
pictures of the 240Z) Autographed pictures of Rick Rhoden, Bill Buckner and
Steve Yeager inside.
I would like to sell this. It may not have much value to anyone but a
baseball collector. Asking price before I put it on e-bay is $20. Any one
interested contact me off the list.
Don BN7 dyarber@dynasty.net
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 19:28:46 -0500
Subject: Fw: Book Store Bonanza
----- Original Message -----
From: J_L_Sims
To: Healey E-mail list
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: Book Store Bonanza
The Gods must be smiling on me. My wife strong-armed me into taking her to
Barnes & Noble today and i pikced up a copy of thoroughbred & Classic Cars
March 2001 issue to have something to read while she was browsing through the
romance novels.
Featured in this issue are
A 7-page spread comparing the Bugeye with a Messershmitt TG 500 (the only
similarity is that both have bugeyes)
AND
a 5-page Big Healey buying guide
Needless to say, I bought the magazine. I can't remember if my wife ever found
the book she was interested in.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 20:34:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
....."Ditto"
I just replied off list with the same comment. I had a year of the same
problem of clogged lines and use to drive with a two gallon tank behind
the seat as an emergency measure (stupid but...)
Best bet is to buy an aluminium replacement. I got mine from SC Parts
cheers
Derek 58 BN4
"Joseph F. Smathers" wrote:
>
> Had a friend who sealed his tank prior to a 1,000 trip to conclave. Upon
> arrival he found that the sealer had come loose and the tank was
> unusable. For the return trip home he ran a 5 gallon tank from the back
> seat to the engine. Dangerous. I have replaced tanks in both of my
> Healey's. 40 years life for a tank is enough.
>
> Best Regards, Joe
>
> 1955 100
> 1660 3000
>
> At 09:10 AM 3/2/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >healeys@autox.team.net
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 08:45:26 EST
Subject: 100-4 stuff (expensive stuff)
I get requests to sell parts through my web sites from time to time and try
to pass them along. $400 for a used service manual seems a mite pricey to me.
I not familiar with original tool kits, are these wrenches original?
No interest etc. etc., contact the seller direct at pnjmc@javanet.com
________________________________________________
more information, the owner`s handbook is original infair to good condition,
dated december 1955,red with gold letters,the service manualis red with gold
letters , dated september 1956, original in fair to good condition, iused
these manuals in the 60`s to drive and service my 100-4,there are some grease
marks, my guess that they are worth around 300 to 400 each.
the tools are 2 open end wrenches 1/2 to 7/16, 3/8 to 1/4, both have a
signature in the middle [AUSTIN], the other 6 wrenches are called SUPERSLIM.
made in england, 3 have initials BSF, and 3 have initials BSF, a total of 8
wrenches.
make an offer.
i am a TRAIDER, i own a porsche 356, 1955 pre-a, and in the process of
restoration, i have thought of the many days of fun i had with the 100-4,
with a towel wrapped around my right leg due to the heat, a wonderful car,
and i will never get it out of my system.
pete mcnulty
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
"If you want to go really fast in a big Healey, a drop of whisky always
helped."
Timo Makinen
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 08:57:47 -0500
Subject: Overdrive solenoids
Am I correct in the assumption that some of the earlier cars, 100's, ran 6
volt systems? If so, did they have 6 volt solenoids on their overdrives? Are
these available anywhere?
I am installing a Laycock overdrive in a 6 volt car, but the unit I am using
has a 12 volt solenoid. I am investigating possible solutions.
John Slade
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 09:46:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive solenoids
Hi John,
Although 2 seater Healeys used two 6 volt batteries these were connected in
series to produce 12 volts. I have never seen a 6 volt overdrive solenoid.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
John Slade wrote:
> Am I correct in the assumption that some of the earlier cars, 100's, ran 6
> volt systems? If so, did they have 6 volt solenoids on their overdrives? Are
> these available anywhere?
>
> I am installing a Laycock overdrive in a 6 volt car, but the unit I am using
> has a 12 volt solenoid. I am investigating possible solutions.
>
> John Slade
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 10:40:20 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive solenoids
In a message dated 03/03/2001 6:59:50 AM Mountain Standard Time,
edalsj@igs.net writes:
<<
Am I correct in the assumption that some of the earlier cars, 100's, ran 6
volt systems? If so, did they have 6 volt solenoids on their overdrives? Are
these available anywhere?
I am installing a Laycock overdrive in a 6 volt car, but the unit I am using
has a 12 volt solenoid. I am investigating possible solutions.
John Slade >>
ALL Healeys used 12 volt systems. What you're probably think of is that the
2-seaters (BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7) used two 6-volt batteries. For the BN1 & BN2
cars, it is a 17L (L = "low" as in battery height). There are two "ears"
with holes through them that hold down rods pas through. For the BN6 and
BN7, a 17H (taller version) can be used (the deck over the battery area isn't
sloped down as on the aBN1/2 and thus there is more height clearance).
For 17L batteries, the only source I know of is the Antique Battery Company
(1-800-426-7580). For the 17H, Interstate makes a battry for the MGB which
works fine (it has heavy hold-down ears too). I know the 17L has screw caps
(you need to keep it topped with water, as in the "old days") and the case is
an accurate molding of the original (i.e. it is perfect for concours as
well!!). I think the Interstate battery also has screw caps and you need to
monitor the water level over time.
Roge
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 10:48:10 -0500
Subject: Healey Artifacts
After 30 years of picking up Healey ad's magazine articles, magazines and
other Healey related artifacts, I am looking for advice on how to store
these artifacts. With the earliest magazines reaching 48 years old, I want
to ensure that they are stored correctly. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated.
Best Regards,
Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
From "rons" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 08:50:18 +0000
Subject: Shock test
My BN1 is on a home-built dolly for ease in moving around the shop as well
as for optimum working height. I'm fairly certain I need new shocks, both
front and rear. However, I don't know how to test them just in case they may
not all require replacing. Does anyone have a suggestion? TIA
Ron BN1
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 11:08:53 -0600
Subject: Lucas Driving Lights
Good morning List,
I hope someone can help me out. I am looking for two Lucus driving light
units (part #: SLR 576) in goood working condition with good, not-pitted
chrome. Please contact me off list if you know where I can find them.
Thank you in advance for you help.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 12:39:42 -0500
Subject: Dowel bolts
I was very interested to read Roger's article on "dowel bolts" in the Feb.
"Austin Healey Magazine".
I have always insisted that these are used when we assemble a gearbox to an
engine. Misalignment can cause premature wear of gearbox bearings and pilot
bushes, not to mention causing clutch "hang up", however, as of late we have run
out completely and are unable to find a source of replacement dowel bolts.
I had to resort to making some a few weeks back, it only took me about 2 1/2
hours to make a pair out of a piece of hex stock. At that rate I figure they are
worth about $50 ea..!!!!
What do listers think of the idea of replacing them with a pair of regular bolts
(assuming that we am unable to find a good source) after dowels have been used
to
align the components and the rest of the bolts are all tightened?
I doubt very much that things would move with 10 tight bolts clamping it
together.
Input appreciated. Thanks.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 12:30:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
however, as of late we have run
>out completely and are unable to find a source of replacement dowel bolts.
I purchased crank to flywheel dowel bolts from DW about two months ago. I
believe that they are also available by special order through SC Parts.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 10:36:26 -0800
Subject: distributor springs and interior kits
Hi all,
I am in need of new mechanical advance springs for my DMA6
distributor. Are there any sources available?
Also, Moss Motors is having an upholstery sale this month, for those
of you that have purchased interiors from Moss, have you been pleased
with the fit and quality of the kits?
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
60 BT7
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 14:01:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
I had my tank coated at a radiator shop. I believe you can buy the material
from Hirsch. The radiator shop did it twice as the first application did
not hold and started to sluff off small particles. The newer coating was
deep red in color. They had to drill a small hole in the tank, I had them
place it on an end near the outrigger, to drain out the tank during the
process. Some one posted a note about putting the sending unit screws into
the holes while it is being coated to protect the threads. This sounded
like a good idea. I had to re-tap the holes as the material got into the
treads and it is hard enough that the screw will strip if not re-tapped.
It has been two years now and it seems fine, even after siting half full
for a year while I rebuilt the engine. The shop said that you should never
leave the tank empty for any prolonged length of time. BTW it cost $125 and
they re-coated it for free even after a year.
John
'62 BT7 MKII
At 09:10 AM 3/2/01 -0500, Todd S Taylor wrote:
>What's the stuff that you can get to seal a gas tank from the inside???
>How do you use it??
>Is it recommended to do this?
>where can I get the stuff??
>
>I have a old gas tank on my car right now that I fixed 20 years ago and
>has gone bad again. (rusted out) I do have another tank I got from a
>3000 parts car that
>is pretty good. It just has a plugged outlet tube that I have to clean
>out. The tank seams to be in good shape, minimal rust etc...
>I'm just wondering before I put it in the car if I should seal the tank
>from the inside or not?? Thanks Todd
>
>Also I need to get some of that rust proofing paint or sealer for the
>frame and floors , tank etc... what is recommended??
>POR-15 ??? who has the best price? any other recommendations???
>Thanks
>
>
>
>59 100-6
>80 MGB Limited
>96 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 18:07:41 EST
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
By the way, there were a few typos in my dowel bolt article. There will be a
correction notice in the next issue, or so, but for those that are interested
now, read below. The errors were from a combination of my fault and the way
some software treats fractions.
1) The caption at the top of p.21 should say: "BSF 3/8" (20 tpi)" as in the
text, not 22 tpi .
2) On p. 20, in the middle of the right column, the standard 100 bell housing
bolts are 1 1/4" long, not 1".
3) On p. 21, in the 1st paragraph, the second sentence should read: "Their
length was 1 1/2" compared to 1 3/8" for 4 of the regular bolts and 1 1/2"
for the 5th (I believe used for attaching the grounding strap)."
Also, not noted in the article, the starter attaching bolts are 1 7/8" long.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 18:07:42 EST
Subject: Car & Driver Mag.
Hi,
I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver Magazine.
It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
Healey 100.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Roger
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 16:22:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
Todd,
Eastwood sells a kit for sealing the tank, and it has detailed
instructions. I used it on my Lotus Europa tanks, and am very pleased with
the results.
Jerry Rude
BJ8
Todd S Taylor wrote:
> What's the stuff that you can get to seal a gas tank from the inside???
> How do you use it??
> Is it recommended to do this?
> where can I get the stuff??
>
> I have a old gas tank on my car right now that I fixed 20 years ago and
> has gone bad again. (rusted out) I do have another tank I got from a
> 3000 parts car that
> is pretty good. It just has a plugged outlet tube that I have to clean
> out. The tank seams to be in good shape, minimal rust etc...
> I'm just wondering before I put it in the car if I should seal the tank
> from the inside or not?? Thanks Todd
>
> Also I need to get some of that rust proofing paint or sealer for the
> frame and floors , tank etc... what is recommended??
> POR-15 ??? who has the best price? any other recommendations???
> Thanks
>
> 59 100-6
> 80 MGB Limited
> 96 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 19:31:00 EST
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
In a message dated 3/3/01 6:09:35 PM, Rmoment@aol.com writes:
<<Hi,
I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver Magazine.
It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
Healey 100.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Roger
>>
Roger,
Is this the orange 100 with blue racing stripe issue?
Rick
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:47:19 -0500
Subject: Vintage sportscar racing
Listers,
May 5-6 the VSCCA will be at Virginia International Raceway. VIR is located
several miles southeast of Danville, VA a mile or so north of the NC line. It
is a track which goes back to the 50s through early 70s and reopened about a
year ago I understand with the help of some BIG bucks (read millions) from a
Raleigh, NC sportscar enthusiast. Track, buildings, even the water in the
pond is all new!
I am no racer, just a spectator, but it is a first class facility. Jim Smith
on this list can tell you about things from the racer's perspective. A friend
and I did manage several "controlled" laps last fall in his 84 Vette on the
full course (it is made up of a North course and South course) and the entire,
new pavement is as slick as a baby's butt.
Go to www.virclub.com/ for pictures, schedule, ticket prices, etc. A year ago
the web site was much more complete with numerous pictures of the facility,
track map, descriptions and so on. Don't know why it is so skimpy now.
How about as many of us as can meet there that weekend? Jim says he will be
racing his 100 and there will likely be several Sprites as last year. Contact
me if you want motel suggestions.
It really is a beautiful, newfacility.
Keith Pennell
Newport News, VA
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:57:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
> In a message dated 3/3/01 6:09:35 PM, Rmoment@aol.com writes:
>
> <<Hi,
>
> I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver
Magazine.
> It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
> Healey 100.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> >>
>
> Roger,
>
> Is this the orange 100 with blue racing stripe issue?
>
> Rick
>
Yes, that's the one, and believe it or not that's preproduction car AHX14,
which is now owned by a member here in Southern Ontario. Check out Larry
Varley's web site for pics of the restored car. It was really in pretty
poor shape in the1968 magazine article, and was just another old tired
sports car.
Rich Chrysler
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 19:30:09 -0800
Subject: FOR SALE: BJ8 LR Shock
I have a Phase II BJ8 left rear shock that I don't need. This shock has been
freshly rebuilt
by WorldWide Auto parts -- who I believe does a much better job on shocks than
Apple
Hydraulics -- and is in excellent condition (hardly a mark around the mounting
holes).
First $60 takes it, and I'll pick up shipping in the continental US.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:51:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
On Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:57:08 -0500, Rich C wrote:
>> ... and believe it or not that's preproduction car AHX14, which is now
owned by a member here in Southern Ontario. Check out Larry Varley's web
site for pics of the restored car. Rich Chrysler <<
By the way, that car is on the cover (and interior, in color) of the March
Austin-Healey Magazine.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 23:02:42 -0800
Subject: Need help with Stator tube
I removed the retaining nut and brass olive (unnecessarily, it turns out) on my
BJ8's steering
stator tube. Can anyone tell me how the olive fits the tube? It seems as if
the olive should
go around the outside of the stator tube, so the tube can be clamped in place
by the olive
and the retaining nut, but the olive (which I broke) looks to be too small to
surround the
tube without a large gap in its split, which I assume would leak fluid from the
steering box.
It appears, from the corrosion and wear, that the stator tube should protrude
about 3/8"
from the retaining nut. Can anyone confirm this as well?
TIA,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 10:35:33 -0000
Subject: RE: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
Agreed re alu tank. No probs sice put
mine in.
Simon Lachlan
HBT7 18111
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of D Job
> Sent: 03 March 2001 01:34
> To: Joseph F. Smathers; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Gas tank sealer/ rust proofing? questions
>
>
>
> ....."Ditto"
>
> I just replied off list with the same comment. I had a
> year of the same
> problem of clogged lines and use to drive with a two
> gallon tank behind
> the seat as an emergency measure (stupid but...)
>
> Best bet is to buy an aluminium replacement. I got
> mine from SC Parts
>
> cheers
>
> Derek 58 BN4
>
> "Joseph F. Smathers" wrote:
> >
> > Had a friend who sealed his tank prior to a 1,000
> trip to conclave. Upon
> > arrival he found that the sealer had come loose and
> the tank was
> > unusable. For the return trip home he ran a 5
> gallon tank from the back
> > seat to the engine. Dangerous. I have replaced
> tanks in both of my
> > Healey's. 40 years life for a tank is enough.
> >
> > Best Regards, Joe
> >
> > 1955 100
> > 1660 3000
> >
> > At 09:10 AM 3/2/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> > >healeys@autox.team.net
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 06:47:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
Hi Roger:
Search e-bay for Car & Driver. You might find one for sale there.
lance
54 bn1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 6:07 PM
Subject: Car & Driver Mag.
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver
Magazine.
> It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
> Healey 100.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 06:52:04 -0500
Subject: brake lining
Hi all:
Does anyone know where to get brake lining material or who relines brake
shoes? I seem to recall that they are hard to come by. For a bn1.
lance
54 bn1
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 08:21:07 -0500
Subject: Healey (Brit Car) Activities
Anyone know of any Healey or other Brit Car activities around the Tidewater
Virginia 5 - 10 April 2001?
Regards
tom
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 08:47:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Need help with Stator tube
Hi Bob,
The original olive is a split olive (this allows it to be removed and refitted
with ease) and it
fits on the stator tube with virtually no gap. We have them in stock if you are
stuck 3H660 $1.87
ea.
About 3/8" protrusion of the stator tube seems to put it in the right position.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I removed the retaining nut and brass olive (unnecessarily, it turns out) on
>my BJ8's steering
> stator tube. Can anyone tell me how the olive fits the tube? It seems as if
>the olive should
> go around the outside of the stator tube, so the tube can be clamped in place
>by the olive
> and the retaining nut, but the olive (which I broke) looks to be too small to
>surround the
> tube without a large gap in its split, which I assume would leak fluid from
>the steering box.
>
> It appears, from the corrosion and wear, that the stator tube should protrude
>about 3/8"
> from the retaining nut. Can anyone confirm this as well?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 09:47:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Need help with Stator tube
Bob,
The BMC 100-6/3000 shop manual has a good diagram on page K.3.
The olive does go on the outside of the stator tube, just like a
compression fitting used in plumbing. The olive is a standard size
which you should be able to get at most any hardware store. The one
that I used was not split, so leaking (there at least) was not an issue.
In order for the compression fitting to seal properly, you do need to
have a bit of the stator tube protruding from the retaining nut.
I don't believe that this dimension is critical as long as the
tube comes up far enough so that the trafficator does not disengage from
it when you pull the steering wheel back as far as it will go.
BTW, I believe that standard practice for compression fittings is to
replace the olive when the part is disassembled.
HTH
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 2:03 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: Need help with Stator tube
I removed the retaining nut and brass olive (unnecessarily, it turns out) on
my BJ8's steering
stator tube. Can anyone tell me how the olive fits the tube? It seems as
if the olive should
go around the outside of the stator tube, so the tube can be clamped in
place by the olive
and the retaining nut, but the olive (which I broke) looks to be too small
to surround the
tube without a large gap in its split, which I assume would leak fluid from
the steering box.
It appears, from the corrosion and wear, that the stator tube should
protrude about 3/8"
from the retaining nut. Can anyone confirm this as well?
TIA,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 09:45:29 EST
Subject: Re: Need help with Stator tube
In a message dated 03/04/2001 12:06:34 AM Mountain Standard Time,
bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
<<
I removed the retaining nut and brass olive (unnecessarily, it turns out) on
my BJ8's steering
stator tube. Can anyone tell me how the olive fits the tube? It seems as
if the olive should
go around the outside of the stator tube, so the tube can be clamped in
place by the olive
and the retaining nut, but the olive (which I broke) looks to be too small
to surround the
tube without a large gap in its split, which I assume would leak fluid from
the steering box.
It appears, from the corrosion and wear, that the stator tube should
protrude about 3/8" >>
The olive is part of a compression fitting. Often people over-tighten and
thus swage the olive and tube OD down, making the olive a "belt" that is
trapped by the "waist" created in the tube.
I use a hack saw and carefully cut at an angle through the olive, down about
2/3 of its thickness. I then use a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot thus
made and with a twist can fracture the rest of the olive so that it can be
spread and removed. You're still stuck with a stator tube that has been
swaged too small at that point, but at least you can get the tube out of the
steering shaft.
Once out, out might be able to fashion a steel mandrell to drive up the tube
and re-expand the swaged region. Heat on the tube will soften it and made
the expansion go easier.
When you put things back together, use a little Hylomar on the olive (barrel)
to help seal the joint. Then you only need to tighten the nut until the
trafficator switch bezel seems firm and won't rotate. At this level of
tightness, the stator tube will not be compressed and you should be able to
remove things in the future when needed.
Roger
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: Re: brake lining
Hi, Lance -
A few years ago, Ted Schumacher re-lined the rear brake shoes of my BJ8.
You can reach him at
TS Imported Automobiles
404 Basinger Road
Pandora, OH 45877
Tel: (419) 384-3022
If you check this out, please let us all know if Ted still provides the
service.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Lance Werner <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: Healey E-mail list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:04 AM
Subject: brake lining
>
>Hi all:
>Does anyone know where to get brake lining material or who relines brake
>shoes? I seem to recall that they are hard to come by. For a bn1.
>lance
>54 bn1
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 11:48:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
Roger:
The Austin Healey 100 pictured throughout this article is my pre-production
car, AHX-14 and as a result I have a number of copies. It mentions that the car
was made available by Joe Cam's Autorama in Reading PA. Tom Shappell, a partner
with Joe Cam, owned the car at that time. Tom thought is was a Sebring car at
the time because he knew it was an all alloy body.
I got most of them from magazine vendors, and others on Ebay from time to
time. If you can't locate a copy, I will give you one of mine. .....no charge.
Let me know.
Regards, Blair
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/3/01 6:09:35 PM, Rmoment@aol.com writes:
>
> <<Hi,
>
> I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver Magazine.
> It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
> Healey 100.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> >>
>
> Roger,
>
> Is this the orange 100 with blue racing stripe issue?
>
> Rick
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 19:23:43 -0800
Subject: Help with stator tube
I removed the retaining nut and brass olive (unnecessarily, it turns
out) on my BJ8's steering stator tube. Can anyone tell me how the
olive fits the tube? It seems as if the olive should go around the
outside of the stator tube, so the tube can be clamped in place by the
olive and the retaining nut, but the olive (which I broke) looks to be
too small to surround the tube without a large gap in its split, which
I assume would leak fluid from the steering box.
It appears, from the corrosion and wear, that the stator tube should
protrude about 3/8" from the retaining nut. Can anyone confirm this
as well.
TIA,
Bob
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:04:50 EST
Subject: Springthing Special Guests
I am very pleased to announce that Gerry Coker, designer of the Austin Healey
100, will be the special guest at Springthing 2001 to be held May 17, 18 & 19
in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of spring hosted by the Bluegrass
Austin Healey Club. This years event will be held in one of the most
picturesque locations amid the center of Thoroughbred Horse Racing
facilities. Events include a Gymkhana, Rally, Car Show, Funkhana, BBQ,
Banquet and more.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and
registration form are available on our web site at <A
HREF="http://bluegrassclub.com/";>Bluegrassclub.com</A> .
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
"If you want to go really fast in a big Healey, a drop of whisky always
helped."
Timo Makinen
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:18:27 -0600
Subject: AH & MG parts for sale
AH/MG PARTS FOR SALE (or trade for "100" bits); please contact me off
list:
NEW: door seal (red) for 100-6/early 3000; reproduction; $15 + shpg
USED:
King Dick B1077 jack for BN1 (also MGA & TD?); no handle
original (not repro) MGA transmission gears (not close ratio); 1000 mi
of use
original MGA distributor with vacuum advance; 1000 mi of use
original MGA tyre pump with folding wire feet; 19" tall; no markings
pair original Dunlop tyre levers
pair of good front shocks that fit AH, but have reservoir on top; 6000
mi of use
miniature brass Tecalamit grease gun; 5 3/4" long; 7/8" diameter
original Lucas Sport coil; red top; aluminum body; push-on connections
WRENCHES (all marked "Made in England"; not repros):
King Dick box spanner; 4" long; 5/8 A/F - 9/16 A/F (from MGA)
King Dick flat open end 4 1/2" long; 1/2 A/F - 7/16 A/F (from MGA)
Superslim open end; 8" long; 1/2"W 9/16" BSF - 3/8" W 7/16" BSF
Superslim open end; 9" long; 7/8" AF - 3/4" AF ("GB" on ends)
Spearpoint open end; 3/4"AF - 11/16" AF
Rudi Markl, BN2/100M
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 14:20:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
I took the liberty of adding the following paragraph to Gary's letter:
"I have the perception, as do my fellow old car aficionados and much of the
public at large
that this is a case of bureaucrats picking on the easiest targets, while
continuing to let the large
and gross polluters off the hook because of their financial influence on the
Legislature. The day
Governor Wilson signed SB 42 was a special one in my life and restored, at
least temporarily ,
my faith that government CAN work for all of us. Please do not let this
newfound faith be
destroyed by CARB."
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: Calif owners - Smog Alert
>
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:21:25 EST
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
All,
I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
experience?
I plan in putting the car up on car stands
Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
Draining the fluid
start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
I am thinking about
1. replacing the clutch
How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the universal
joints
Anything else I missed?
Jim L.
56 BN2
Bowie, MD
From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:56:07 -0500
Subject: Re: AH & MG parts for sale
where is b. council located? I know a Bruce Council in Asheville. Is that you?
Dave
"R. Markl/B. Council" wrote:
> AH/MG PARTS FOR SALE (or trade for "100" bits); please contact me off
> list:
>
> NEW: door seal (red) for 100-6/early 3000; reproduction; $15 + shpg
>
> USED:
> King Dick B1077 jack for BN1 (also MGA & TD?); no handle
>
> original (not repro) MGA transmission gears (not close ratio); 1000 mi
> of use
>
> original MGA distributor with vacuum advance; 1000 mi of use
>
> original MGA tyre pump with folding wire feet; 19" tall; no markings
>
> pair original Dunlop tyre levers
>
> pair of good front shocks that fit AH, but have reservoir on top; 6000
> mi of use
>
> miniature brass Tecalamit grease gun; 5 3/4" long; 7/8" diameter
>
> original Lucas Sport coil; red top; aluminum body; push-on connections
>
> WRENCHES (all marked "Made in England"; not repros):
>
> King Dick box spanner; 4" long; 5/8 A/F - 9/16 A/F (from MGA)
>
> King Dick flat open end 4 1/2" long; 1/2 A/F - 7/16 A/F (from MGA)
>
> Superslim open end; 8" long; 1/2"W 9/16" BSF - 3/8" W 7/16" BSF
>
> Superslim open end; 9" long; 7/8" AF - 3/4" AF ("GB" on ends)
>
> Spearpoint open end; 3/4"AF - 11/16" AF
>
> Rudi Markl, BN2/100M
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
>rmarkl.vcf]
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 19:50:55 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Jim.
Ive just done this, literally just finished it yesterday. Im not an
experienced mechanic and this was my first attempt. I took my time and
it worked.
I also used two jacks but in addition I placed some wood blocks under
the bell housing so that when it comes off the spline it has somewhere
to rest. It gets a bit wobbly with just the one jack under the
transmission. Dont forget to detach all the auxillary bits and pieces.
I left the rear support bracket attached to the gearbox and unscrewed it
from the frame. Leave the tie rod fastened to the frame and just detach
the single bolt (the pin hinge). Dont forget there are also two bolts
hidden under the frame which bolt upwards to the gearbox cover.
When everythings undone use the jacks to raise the gearbox about an inch
or so that it can clear the frame when you pull it back.It might not
come first time but just keep working at it and eventually it will pull
back. Make sure it doesnt get snagged on the the universal joint. It
will help if someone assits you with the jacks while you're fiddling
with the box. You'll need someone to help lift it out anyway (via
passenger door). Im assuming you've removed the seats.
Note down exactly which bolts come out of which holes in the
bellhousing as they are not all the same. In fact keep notes on
everything.
Good luck (I hope I can put mine back in!!!!)
cheers
Derek 58 BN4 MM
JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> experience?
>
> I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> Draining the fluid
> start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
>
> I am thinking about
> 1. replacing the clutch
> How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the universal
> joints
>
> Anything else I missed?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
> Bowie, MD
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 21:19:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Shock test
Hello Ron and Listers;
The best way to test your shocks to see if they are good is to fill
them with the proper fluid, unbolt them at the arm and then push and pull
the arm through a full cycle about ten times. The shock should give a good
strong resistance in both directions and not lock up part way through a
stroke. If all is well and they do not leak fluid then just change the oil
and re-use them.
Good Luck...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 3:50 AM
Subject: Shock test
>
> My BN1 is on a home-built dolly for ease in moving around the shop as well
> as for optimum working height. I'm fairly certain I need new shocks, both
> front and rear. However, I don't know how to test them just in case they
may
> not all require replacing. Does anyone have a suggestion? TIA
> Ron BN1
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 20:12:46 -0600
Subject: Clutch pedal extension
The PO of my "new" BJ8 had a clutch pedal extension installed. It is a
piece of 1/4" flat aluminum stock which places the pedal about 3" closer
to the driver. It was well made and does not show other than the pedal
is closer. I don't know the PO's circumstances but, apparently, there
was a need for it.
Being a big fat guy, there is no need for me to keep it. If anyone is
interested, send me a couple of bucks for shipping and I'll send it
along. A duplicate could easily be made for the brake pedal if you
happen to be vertically challenged.
Better email first as there may be a big rush for this one off part!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 21:45:35 -0500
Subject: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
Please delete this if you have no interest.
For many years I used Ami Pro as my word processor. It seems, with the
installation of W2000 the time has come to finally give it up and switch
to MS Word.
I have hundreds of Ami Pro documents which I have been trying to convert
to Word 2000. I have purchased Lotus Word Pro and can open all the Ami
Pro documents successfully in that but even trying to save them as Word
6.0 docs doesn't cut it.
I understand that IBM still use Word Pro and cannot believe that they
don't have a satisfactory converter.
Any IBMers out there who can shed some light on the subject.
I would be happy to send a Word Pro document for you to play with.
Thanks for your time
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 22:36:03 -0500
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Listers,
I am posting this for a friend. No personal interest.
FOR SALE: BJ8 project car. The car is located in Newport News, VA. Here is
some general info.
- 1964 phase II ?
- HBJ8L/29668
- 3198BJ8
- 74.552
- steel wheels
- engine turns
- appears 100% complete, but largely in boxes
- OD
- rust in usual areas but car is basically sound
- interior complete but extremely rough
- aftermarket hardtop poor condition
- asking $6000
Steve is a straight shooter. If you want more details contact him at
jlgibbsrealtor@aol.com
From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 22:49:22 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Jim: You got it about right. Here is my $.02
1. It can be a one man job, but it sure is easier with two.
2. Drain the fluid before you place the jacks under the gearbox.
3. Dont forget the two bolts that go up into the transmission mounts from
underneath.
4. If you are going to remove the driveshaft, do it first.
5. Remove the Gearbox and Overdrive as a unit.
6. You have gone this far....Go for a new clutch disc, pressure plate and
throw-out bearing.
7. Make sure you use the two shoulder bolts in the proper location on the
bell housing when
re-installing the gearbox.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:21 PM
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> All,
>
> I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> experience?
>
> I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> Draining the fluid
> start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
>
>
>
> I am thinking about
> 1. replacing the clutch
> How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> joints
>
> Anything else I missed?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
> Bowie, MD
From AGOrendi at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 01:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
Larry,
It would be great to have a sketch of this part accessible for the community
on an AH-club website. Having such an extension would allow my (vertically
challenged) girlfriend to ride the Healey, too.
Regards......Andreas
Germany
100/6-1958
From Joe at Farley.net
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 23:10:23 -0800
Subject: RE: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
Mike,
Go to this url and download and install the converter pack
This will then allow Word 2000 to read the .sam files
directly... WOrks great...
http://search.officeupdate.microsoft.com/downloadCatalog/default.asp?Product
=Word&SortBy=Date&SortOrder=d&Version=2000&Type=CV
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Krazy Kiwi
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 6:46 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
>
>
>
> Please delete this if you have no interest.
>
> For many years I used Ami Pro as my word processor. It seems, with the
> installation of W2000 the time has come to finally give it up and switch
> to MS Word.
> I have hundreds of Ami Pro documents which I have been trying to convert
> to Word 2000. I have purchased Lotus Word Pro and can open all the Ami
> Pro documents successfully in that but even trying to save them as Word
> 6.0 docs doesn't cut it.
> I understand that IBM still use Word Pro and cannot believe that they
> don't have a satisfactory converter.
> Any IBMers out there who can shed some light on the subject.
> I would be happy to send a Word Pro document for you to play with.
> Thanks for your time
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 23:15:07 -0800
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Others will probably disagree, but I recommend pulling the engine and
trany/OD out of the
car and getting it all out in the open were you can work on it without
standing on your head under the dashboard. One time I pulled just the trany
and OD from my BJ8 I dented the engine pan even though I placed a block of
wood on
top of the jack and another time I broke the bronze pilot bearing in the end
of the crank trying to line up the trany during re-installation. Also, the
hole in the firewall shrinks while the trany is out making it difficult to
reinstall. I shouldn't think that it would be much different with a BN2.
There are a lot of other little things you will find to do
while you have the whole system out of the car like cleaning the outside of
the engine and painting if necessary, checking motor mounts, checking for
cracks in the frame around the motor mount brackets, making sure there is no
wear on the woodfuff key and the pully bolt is tight on the front of the
crank, etc., etc.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> All,
>
> I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> experience?
>
> I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> Draining the fluid
> start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
>
>
>
> I am thinking about
> 1. replacing the clutch
> How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> joints
>
> Anything else I missed?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
> Bowie, MD
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 02:33:42 EST
Subject: 1969 Sprite MKIV HAN9 parts
I am looking for sources of parts for the above car, used and new. Any
suggestions are appreciated. Cheers, Bill
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 05:46:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hardtop for BJ8
Hi Team,
I'm making an enquiry for a fellow Healey pilote here...
He seeks a hardtop, factory style, for his BJ8. I know that some
reproductions were made beginning in the mid-1980s, but I don't recall by
whom. I never really followed the subject at the time, and for all I know
maybe they are still being made.
Any leads? Anybody got one for sale? I'll relay info. I have no personal
interest, etc. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ (March calendar photo now posted)
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Stephen Graham" <stepheng48 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 10:30:06 -0800
Subject: Sending Unit
Good morning all. I am getting ready to replace and old rusty gas tank in my
62 BT7.
I am not to familiar with the sending unit and its purpose. Will I need to
replace it when I get a new tank? If not is there a way of check how well it
works?
Thanks
Stephen
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 10:27:29 EST
Subject: Re: Sending Unit
Put the old one back in and see how it works! It is a very simple
procedure and easy to replace if you are not satisfied. Be sure you
maintain a good ground! I don't think you are going to find a new one that
works any better-the erratic , random readings are part of the Healey
mystique!
Larry Wysocki
BN6
BJ7
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 07:49:23 -0800
Subject: Re: UnionJack, San Martin, California
Has anyone had any experience with this small business south of San Jose,
British Auto Restoration run by John LoCascio and his son Marcello?
David Neale
BN7
BJ8.
From Dick Brill <dickb1 at cheerful.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:51:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: no LBC content
G.W.Bush was very depressed that people were saying he is stupid. So he
calls his good friend Queen Elizabeth, who says, "Now George, what you
need to do is to surround yourself with smart people. Let me show you."
She calls Tony Blair in and asks, "Tony, your parents had a baby. It isn't
your sister and it isn't your brother. Who is
it?"
Tony Blair replies, "It's me!"
So G.W. calls Dick Cheney and says, "Dick, your parents had a baby. It isn't
your sister and it isn't your brother. Who is it?"
And Cheney says, "Wow, that's a tough one. Let me get back to you."
So Cheney calls Colin Powell and says, "Colin, your parents had a baby. It
isn't your sister and it isn't your brother.
Who is it?"
And Colin Powell says, "It's me!"
So Cheney calls Bush and says, "It's Colin Powell."
And Bush says, "No, you idiot! It's Tony Blair!"
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:36:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Sending Unit
Hi Stephen,
The sending unit sends the level indication to the fuel gauge.
If your fuel gauge was working OK then you should not need to change it.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Stephen Graham wrote:
> Good morning all. I am getting ready to replace and old rusty gas tank in my
> 62 BT7.
>
> I am not to familiar with the sending unit and its purpose. Will I need to
> replace it when I get a new tank? If not is there a way of check how well it
> works?
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:42:20 EST
Subject: Healey Art
While cruisn' the net I found a site that has two posters with Big Healeys in
them. The web site is: www.arteauto.com.
Click on Alain Levesque. How do you like em'?
Richard
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:46:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Hardtop for BJ8
Reid:
The following supplier lists "works" type hardtops for BJ7 and BJ8.
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk/
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 8:46 AM
Subject: Hardtop for BJ8
>
> Hi Team,
>
> I'm making an enquiry for a fellow Healey pilote here...
>
> He seeks a hardtop, factory style, for his BJ8. I know that some
> reproductions were made beginning in the mid-1980s, but I don't recall by
> whom. I never really followed the subject at the time, and for all I know
> maybe they are still being made.
>
> Any leads? Anybody got one for sale? I'll relay info. I have no
personal
> interest, etc. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ (March calendar photo now posted)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins at co.jefferson.co.us>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:28:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
You really do not need an extension for your girlfriend to "ride" in the
Healey, only if she drives it. My wife has the same problem in our '59 100-6,
but I found an original factory advertisement that stated the Healey was a
"man's" car. Every time I point this out to her, I end up with another lump on
my head. After all, a whole lot of her time and money went into the
restoration of this car.
>>> <AGOrendi@aol.com> 03/04/01 11:38PM >>>
Larry,
It would be great to have a sketch of this part accessible for the community
on an AH-club website. Having such an extension would allow my (vertically
challenged) girlfriend to ride the Healey, too.
Regards......Andreas
Germany
100/6-1958
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:16:45 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Art
<<: www.arteauto.com. Click on Alain Levesque.>>
Very nice artwork. I have print #2 of 400 of "La Tournee des Chateaux" which
features an Austin-Healey 3000 in front of Chateaux Montebello in Quebec. It
hangs in my living room. No financial interest, etc., etc., but I can say
that I own one and I am very happy with it.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
"If you want to go really fast in a big Healey, a drop of whisky always
helped."
Timo Makinen
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:33:44 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
I have them on my cars and like it. Allows my female friends to drive the car
and when they get to drive they learn to enjoy the cars. Also for guys with
short legs, long arms and big bellies (like me) it allows us to move the seat
back farther.
I made mine out of flat steel stock from the hardware store and grade 8
bolts. It required a gentle radius on the steel stock and drilling some holes
but easy to do.
If someone wants to do a tech article on it I'll post it on my web page.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
"If you want to go really fast in a big Healey, a drop of whisky always
helped."
Timo Makinen
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:42:18 +1100
Subject: Quest for Historic Info
In Ray English's latest issue of Marque One, he has a
couple of articles related to long sprite road trips.
He is seeking info on the people or cars involved in the
following articles. If you can help, please send him email at
rayenglish@telstra.easymail.com.au and please CC me.
Reid Trummel's aborted bugeye trip would have been a modern
addition had it come off.
Ray is a seeking a copy of the article #2 or the actual magazine.
1. "A Sprite goes East", John Orr. From Saigon to Singapore -
a 2000 mile hourney by Austin Healey Sprite through Vietnam,
Cambodia and Malaya. (Safety Fast magazine Feb 1961)
2. "They Said it Couldn't be Done", 1959 Sebring cars, an MGA
and Mk 1 Sprite cross the USA from Sebring to Los Angeles,
a total of 5000 miles including detours. (Sports Cars Illustrated),
July 1959. (Ray needs this one)
3. "Journeying Sprite" Two Scotsman spend two years and travel
60,000 miles around the world in a Mk 1 Sprite (Worldwide,
April/May 1962)
4. "Return of the Bugeye" by Peter Egan. Peter sells his Sprite, years
later he buys it back and drives it back across the USA to his home.
A classic tale of a man and his Sprite (Road & Track, June & July 1958)
5. "London - Christchurch via Bombay" (Worldwide, April/May 1961)
Reprinted in the current uissue of Marque One
Do you know of other Healey or Spridget long distance stories in print? If
so, please let me know and I will collate for the list and for Ray.
If you don't know about Marque One, see
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~mikeg/marqueone/ for info and a sample issue.
FYI, Bob Lomas is organising a 5,000mi road trip for Sprites here in Australia
later this year. It is a loop around Eastern and Central Australia. Starts and
ends in
Melbourne, visits the Gulf of Carpentaria and returns down through Alice Springs
and Adelaide. He has organised a support vehicle and currently has 4 Sprites
in the convoy.
Mike
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:42:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hardtop for BJ8
Hi Reid;
Currently there is an original hard top for a BJ7 or BJ8 for sale
within the AHC[UK]Eastern Centre. It has been stored for many years
and is reported to be in good original condition although the rear
window may be a bit tatty. Asking price is 450 # [pounds]. The
sellers name is Paul and can be reached at 01480 476955 [Bedfordshire
UK].
See the following web site:
http://www.austin-healey-club-ec.fsnet.co.uk/for_sale_swaps_and_wanted/for_sale.htm#paul-original_works_hard_top
Good luck
--Scott Morris
ps: I hope I got the web site address correct. If not, let me know and
I will try again.
--- Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com> wrote: << Hi Team, I'm making an
enquiry for a fellow Healey pilote here...He seeks a hardtop, factory
style, for his BJ8. I know that some reproductions were made beginning
in the mid-1980s, but I don't recall by whom. I never really followed
the subject at the time, and for all I know maybe they are still being
made. Any leads? Anybody got one for sale? I'll relay info. I have
no personal interest, etc.
Thanks. Cheers, --Reid Trummel >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 15:51:10 -0800
Subject: Brake Shake - new developments
Some of you will remember my problem of a slight vibration while stopping my 55
BN1. To make this problem more convoluted, I re-lined my brake shoes with a new
modern stickier material AND I have a one year old set of Al-fin brake drums
on the front and a brand new set on the rear.
I finally got all the shoes aligned using that little angle bolt. This is no
small task. And meant pulling the wheels and drums off many, many times. Here's
a hint for that, draw a line across the shoe material with a wax pencil, drive
around the block and re-check where it's wiped off.
OK now to the actual problem:
It is not the new rear brake drums. Put my old ones back on and no effect.
Unfortunately this leaves the fronts. Using the same draw a line method
mentioned above but with a permanent marker. I discovered that the front Al-fin
drums are not even! There are two, 2-inch wide, spots on opposite sides of each
other being rubbed less. So it appears my Al-fins my have become oval!!!
This is a classic problem with period drums but I thought they had it licked in
the modern SC Parts version. The strange part is that I only have 1600 mile on
these drums , and I did not notice this problem before I changed to the new
shoes??? I dug out my old steel drums but they were never on the car since the
restoration so they'll need some clean up to verify that this is the problem.
So the question now is: Can a brake shop grind/cut theses Al-fin drums back to
round?
OR how difficult is it to change a BN1 to front disk brakes?
Opinions?
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:49:57 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Further to the notes below, I'll describe how I do it. I leave the car on
it's wheels and support the engine under the pan and rear mounting plate
with a good piece of plywood to spread the load, making sure not to have the
wood bearing on the gearbox bell housing. Then I undo all the bell housing
bolts using a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension, to reach all the bolts and
nuts. A box wrench slipped onto the forward side of things will stop the
bolt from spinning around while the nut and lockwasher is being removed. The
slave cylinder on the 6 cylinder cars is removed by undoing the two bolts,
and swinging the cylinder up out of harm's way. This will leave the
hydraulics undisturbed.
The stay rod link pin, (the one that points from right to left) under the
gearbox is removed by taking off the nut and lockwasher and carefully prying
the flanged head out of the rubber bushing. Proceed to undo all the rear
gearbox mounting bolts as Derek mentions, not forgetting the two underneath.
There's room to fit your arm along side the gearbox to reach these with a
short extension, coming straight up under the cross member. Undo the prop
shaft flange and compress the shaft as much as possible on it's splines.
Now for the actual removal.
I suspend a chain falls right down behing the windscreen, cented in the car,
draping rags over the windscreen frame to protect accidentally touching it
with the chain. A loop of rope is slung around the adapter plate at the back
of the gearbox / front of the overdrive. This is pretty much the balance
point front to back for the whole assembly. Hook the chain hook onto the
rope loop and gently take up the slack until the back of the unit begins to
lift a bit. Then you can simply pull the whole unnit back, clearing the prop
shaft at the back and the first motion shaft will clear out of the clutch
splines at the front. Now you can manoever the assembly back and spin it to
lie sideways across the floor. Release the hook from the rope, and get a
second person to help you lift the unit out of the passenger's side of the
car.
Whew, it took longer to describe it than the actual lift and removal takes.
Replacement is the reversal of removal, though while suspended and lined up
to enter the first motion shaft into the clutch splines, it's easier to slip
the gearbox into 4th gear so you can rotate the shaft to find the splines.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: D Job <djob@home.com>
To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> Jim.
>
> Ive just done this, literally just finished it yesterday. Im not an
> experienced mechanic and this was my first attempt. I took my time and
> it worked.
>
> I also used two jacks but in addition I placed some wood blocks under
> the bell housing so that when it comes off the spline it has somewhere
> to rest. It gets a bit wobbly with just the one jack under the
> transmission. Dont forget to detach all the auxillary bits and pieces.
>
> I left the rear support bracket attached to the gearbox and unscrewed it
> from the frame. Leave the tie rod fastened to the frame and just detach
> the single bolt (the pin hinge). Dont forget there are also two bolts
> hidden under the frame which bolt upwards to the gearbox cover.
>
> When everythings undone use the jacks to raise the gearbox about an inch
> or so that it can clear the frame when you pull it back.It might not
> come first time but just keep working at it and eventually it will pull
> back. Make sure it doesnt get snagged on the the universal joint. It
> will help if someone assits you with the jacks while you're fiddling
> with the box. You'll need someone to help lift it out anyway (via
> passenger door). Im assuming you've removed the seats.
>
> Note down exactly which bolts come out of which holes in the
> bellhousing as they are not all the same. In fact keep notes on
> everything.
>
> Good luck (I hope I can put mine back in!!!!)
>
> cheers
> Derek 58 BN4 MM
>
>
>
>
>
> JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> > transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> > experience?
> >
> > I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> > Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> > Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> > Draining the fluid
> > start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
> >
> > I am thinking about
> > 1. replacing the clutch
> > How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> > 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> > 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> > joints
> >
> > Anything else I missed?
> >
> > Jim L.
> > 56 BN2
> > Bowie, MD
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 16:53:55 -0800
Subject: Tech Session this Saturday
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
Event AlertSaturday March 10
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club president David Nock, will host an open
technical session Saturday March 10 at the home of Sandi Baker in Walnut
Creek. David is president of British Car Specialists in Stockton.
Subjects: getting your Healey in shape for the 2001 season, tips on
tuning and roadside repairs. Starting time is 10AM.
Directions: Take I-680 to Livorna Avenue exit (south of Walnut Creek)
west (under the freeway) to Danville Blvd. Go right approximately =
mile to Hillgrade. Left up the hill to the point where the road swings
right and becomes Crest. Go left to the first stop sign (Tice Valley
Road). Go Left. Approximately 100 yards past the first stop sign take a
left onto Castle Hill Ranch Road. Bear right at the first intersection
then another right at the oak tree in the middle of the road onto Saddle
Road. Go all the way up to the end and swing left up a short grade.
Thats Sandis driveway. Sandis is at the top. Sandi is at
925-946-1716. Call Dave at 209-824-1562 if you plan to attend.
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:49:44 EST
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Derek,
Thanks for the advise. Did you unbolt on the frame side or the transmission
side when you refered to ' Dont forget there are also two bolts
hidden under the frame which bolt upwards to the gearbox cover.' ?
Jim L
56 BN2
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:05:09 -0800
Subject: Brake Servo Seal
Does anyone know of a source for the piston seal for the Girling brake servos?
Is it the
same as the seal on the master cylinder, or does it otherwise cross-reference
any common
parts?
This is the small rubber seal on the piston in the cylinder, not the big seal
on the vacuum
diaphragm. This is for a BJ8.
I'd rather not buy a complete rebuild kit for just the one seal.
Thanks,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 22:30:57 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2]
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <3AA4596D.D755B720@home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 22:28:45 -0500
From: D Job <djob@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-AtHome0405 (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: JXLmail@aol.com
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
References: <63.12a503e4.27d59c38@aol.com>
Jim.
The heads of these bolts are underneath the frame, so you have to reach
under to get at them, they bolt upwards into the overdrive case. At this
particular point, the frame is not a complete box section but an
inverted U shape (hope this is clear) Thats why you cant see them if you
just glance under the car.
cheers & good luck. Im offf the list now for two weeks
Derek
JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
>
> Derek,
>
> Thanks for the advise. Did you unbolt on the frame side or the transmission
> side when you refered to ' Dont forget there are also two bolts
> hidden under the frame which bolt upwards to the gearbox cover.' ?
>
> Jim L
> 56 BN2
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 21:11:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red interior
color
scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone have a
JPEG
or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about uding
it,
but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies greatly
appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note different
spellings)
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 01:44:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
Count yourself lucky. She could be putting dents in the car.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Knopinski" <JKnopins@co.jefferson.co.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
>
> You really do not need an extension for your girlfriend to "ride" in the
Healey, only if she drives it. My wife has the same problem in our '59
100-6, but I found an original factory advertisement that stated the Healey
was a "man's" car. Every time I point this out to her, I end up with
another lump on my head. After all, a whole lot of her time and money went
into the restoration of this car.
>
> >>> <AGOrendi@aol.com> 03/04/01 11:38PM >>>
>
> Larry,
> It would be great to have a sketch of this part accessible for the
community
> on an AH-club website. Having such an extension would allow my (vertically
> challenged) girlfriend to ride the Healey, too.
>
> Regards......Andreas
>
> Germany
> 100/6-1958
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 05:22:46 -0500
Subject: Re: White & Black with Red Interior!
John:
Although it isn't actually a photograph, you can get a reasonable idea of
appearance of the color combination at Roger Los' Big Healey site:
http://www.austinhealey.com/big.html
John Cope
62 BT7 in Waycross, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:11 AM
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
>
> Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red
interior color
> scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone
have a JPEG
> or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about
uding it,
> but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies
greatly
> appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note
different spellings)
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "popkapsule" <pkna at popkapsule.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:26:57 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Art
Hi everyone,
Speaking of Healey art, we have some new sizes and prices if anyone is
interested.
17x22 $100
34x22 $200
These are fine art Austin Healey giclee prints, portrait style, gouache
painting. For non-HTML email users, you can click on the link here and view
the Healey and other cars: www.popkapsule.com/gallery. BTW, a new Gullwing,
has been recently added to the collection.
If anyone is interested email to bpm@popkapsule.com.
Thanks!
POPKAPSULE NORTH ATLANTIK
v: 508.347.7277
f: 508.347.8777
w: www.popkapsule.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HealeyAuto@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Art
While cruisn' the net I found a site that has two posters with Big Healeys
in
them. The web site is: www.arteauto.com.
Click on Alain Levesque. How do you like em'?
Richard
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:58:15 -0500
Subject: British Car Parts
Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in Madisonville,
KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
friend's BJ7 resto.
TIA
Keith Pennell
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:16:17 EST
Subject: Fwd: Healey Art
Return-path: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
From: Bobsoniaharris@aol.com
Full-name: Bobsoniaharris
Message-ID: <7c.127bedbd.27d59060@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:59:12 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Art
To: HealeyAuto@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 130
While cruising, I also found a great BN1 or BN2 painting and poster from Art
Drive Galleries @ artdrive.net. As a BJ8 guy, I can't tell if it's a BN! or 2
-- maybe you experts know.
Bob
BJ8 35411
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:30:55 -0600
Subject: Heritage Trim Phone Number
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
Thank you in advance,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:31:47 -0600
Subject: Heritage Trim Phone Number
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
Thank you in advance,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:46:17 -0600
Subject: Top frame support pieces
Hi Listers,
I would like to fabricate a couple of top frame support pieces to finish off
my interior and I am hoping someone can help. Can someone please describe
the top frame support strap and retention box on a BN7?
For clarity, the top frame support strap is the quarter-round strap that
retains the top frame when in the stored position behind the driver and
passenger seat. It is attatched to the side interior panel and the back
wall. I would like to know the dimensions (height, length and thickness).
What is the strap made from (ie bent metal, wood, leather, etc.) How is the
piece finished (ie. painted - color, covered - vinyl or carpet material,
other). How are these attatched to the side panel and back wall?
The retention box (probably called something else) is the small box located
on the floor behind the seats in which the bottom of the top-frame rests
while in the stored position. I would like to know the dimensions (height,
length, radius and thickness). What is the strap made from (ie metal, wood,
leather, etc.) How is the piece finished (ie. painted - color, covered -
vinyl or carpet material, other. How are these attatched to the side panel
and back wall or floor?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:51:05 -0600
Subject: Re: British Car Parts
Keith,
British Motor Cars in Madisonville, KY. 502-825-2994,502-821-7050 or fax
502-754-5731.
ListQuest.com - its a great resource. How 'bout the story over a beer?
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>Reply-To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: British Car Parts
>Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:58:15 -0500
>
>Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in
>Madisonville,
>KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
>friend's BJ7 resto.
>
>TIA
>Keith Pennell
_________________________________________________________________
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:08:26 -0800
Subject: RE: British Car Parts
3429 Hanson Rd
Madisonville, KY 42431
(270) 821-6351
I got this from Yahoo Yellow Pages http://yp.yahoo.com/
I assume the listing is current. YMMV.
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:58 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: British Car Parts
>
>
>
> Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in
> Madisonville,
> KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
> friend's BJ7 resto.
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:50:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Still More Healey Art
Here's one I bet you missed:
http://www.start-gallery.com/anglais/Austin-Healey.htm
(Then scroll down and click <return> for ordering info.)
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ [UPDATED 3/5/01]
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell at qualcomm.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 13:52:43 -0800
Subject: over steer
I have owned my BN2 for a month or so and have been having a great time
with it. Unfortunately due to the unusually soggy weather for southern
California I have been able to put only about a hundred miles on it so far.
One thing that I have noticed is there is a great deal of over steer. I am
guessing that this is typical with these cars, so I am also guessing there
are known solutions. My first guess would be tire pressure. I was also
wondering if there are limited slip diffs available? All advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 17:34:21 EST
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Jim,
I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if you're
doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the pilot
bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own. I
found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
to be helpful and well worth the $70.
Bill Bolton (TRICARB @ aol.com) lightened my flywheel a few years ago. When
you
replace your clutch, you should replace the pilot bearing, clutch disc, and
pressure plate at the same time. You'll also want to replace your flywheel
bolts.
Have the lightened flywheel and clutch components balanced at the same time
you have your driveshaft done. You may be able to find a place in the yellow
pages under "Driveshaft Service". If not, check with the local hot rodders
or drag racers. They'll surely know the best around.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 3/4/01 5:23:50 PM, JXLmail@aol.com writes:
<<I am thinking about
1. replacing the clutch
How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the universal
joints
Anything else I missed?
Jim L.
56 BN2
Bowie, MD
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 16:40:38 -0600
Subject: Re: over steer
Steve,
Don't feel so bad, that's about a hundred miles more than we've been able to
drive in the Chicago area. I keep telling myself, "four more weeks" I also
keep telling myself "this will be the year for the Cubs". Unfortunately I
think only one will come true.
I hope you enjoy the car. This list is a great resource.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
>From: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
>Reply-To: Steve Tidwell <sbtidwell@qualcomm.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: over steer
>Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 13:52:43 -0800
>
>I have owned my BN2 for a month or so and have been having a great time
>with it. Unfortunately due to the unusually soggy weather for southern
>California I have been able to put only about a hundred miles on it so far.
>One thing that I have noticed is there is a great deal of over steer. I am
>guessing that this is typical with these cars, so I am also guessing there
>are known solutions. My first guess would be tire pressure. I was also
>wondering if there are limited slip diffs available? All advice is
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve Tidwell
_________________________________________________________________
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 15:57:20 -0800
Subject: Re: over steer
Oversteer, Steve? You, a Porsche 356 driver, remark about oversteer
in a BN2? Something is very wrong or misadjusted to make a BN2
oversteer in the sense that a swing axle Porsche or VW oversteers. The
geometry and weight distribution aren't similar.
Maybe what you are experiencing is breaking loose the rear tires when
you apply power in corners. That might be partly because you have a
fairly hot engine with an aluminum head, etc (maybe 120hp), partly
because of wet weather in an area (So. Calif.) where the roads don't
get the slippery road oils and tire dust mud washed off, and partly,
perhaps, because of your tires or tire pressures. Lightening up on
the accelerator through the curves should eliminate that sort of
oversteer. Maybe running a pound or two more pressure in the rear
tires than in the front would give you more grip. If the tires are 6
to 10 years old, no matter how much tread and how good the quality, it
is likely time to replace them. Safety issues aside, the tires just
get hard and lose their grip. In dry weather, wider tires and wheels
would give you more grip, too.
As a long shot you might look into the alignment of all four wheels.
It is just possible that misalignment could lose you some traction at
the rear.
Hang in there, in the corners, too :-)
-Roland
On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 13:52:43 -0800, Steve Tidwell
<sbtidwell@qualcomm.com> wrote:
::
:: I have owned my BN2 for a month or so and have been having a great time
:: with it. Unfortunately due to the unusually soggy weather for southern
:: California I have been able to put only about a hundred miles on it so far.
:: One thing that I have noticed is there is a great deal of over steer. I am
:: guessing that this is typical with these cars, so I am also guessing there
:: are known solutions. My first guess would be tire pressure. I was also
:: wondering if there are limited slip diffs available? All advice is
:appreciated.
::
:: Thanks,
:: Steve Tidwell
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 19:50:28 -0500
Subject: Re: White & Black with Red Interior!
Hi, John -
This may not be helpful, but perhaps is interesting to a few of you:
Of the 3,749 cars now included in the BJ8 Registry, only the following are
recorded as having the white/black paint scheme:
HBJ8L/26002 (orig) Ivory White; (now) white/black with red interior -
Holland
HBJ8/25736 (orig) Ivory White/black with black leather - England
HBJ8L/28698 (orig) Ivory White/black (now) BRG with black interior -
Holland
HBJ8L/29057 (orig) white/black with red leather (now) BRG/white with
black - Illinois
HBJ8L/38687 (orig) Ivory White (now) white/black with black interior -
Holland
So, it appears that the white/black paint scheme is not exactly common.
The only car recorded as having white/black with red interior is in Holland
and unfortunately I do not have the e-mail address of the owner. The only
one originally white/black with red interior no longer is so.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (was BRG, now is yellow/black)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: John Schaible <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:28 AM
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
>
>Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red
interior color
>scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone have
a JPEG
>or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about
uding it,
>but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies
greatly
>appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note
different spellings)
>Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From PINNSYSGRP at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 20:48:24 EST
Subject: Healey 100 Head
Hello listers:
Really need your help on this one. I am trying to locate a Healey 100 head
for a friend. I don't think it matters whether it's a BN1 or BN2; think they
are the same. Does anyone out there know of anyone who might have one extra
or know of parts sources that he can contact. We have located one, but the
fellow wants $2500.00 for it. Is that the going rate?
All replies welcomed.
John Downing
From Steve Tidwell <tidwells at qualcomm.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 18:03:09 -0800
Subject: Re: over steer
Roland,
Maybe over steer is not the correct term. But I really have to mind my p's
and q's going through the turns (power on or off) or the rear end wants to
pass the front. The 356 is actually quite nice in the turns, it will let go
but well into it's power range. Of course my 356 has 5.5in wheels with 195
tires. We need to go for a ride as soon as the weather is back to normal,
although we wont have a chance to compare it to the 356. It is being
shipped off to it's new home in northern California tonight. I'm kind of
sad to see it go, but I would much rather see it go than the BN2. I will
play with tire pressure (the tires are new according to the p/o).
Steve
At 03:57 PM 03/06/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>Oversteer, Steve? You, a Porsche 356 driver, remark about oversteer
>in a BN2? Something is very wrong or misadjusted to make a BN2
>oversteer in the sense that a swing axle Porsche or VW oversteers. The
>geometry and weight distribution aren't similar.
>
> Maybe what you are experiencing is breaking loose the rear tires when
>you apply power in corners. That might be partly because you have a
>fairly hot engine with an aluminum head, etc (maybe 120hp), partly
>because of wet weather in an area (So. Calif.) where the roads don't
>get the slippery road oils and tire dust mud washed off, and partly,
>perhaps, because of your tires or tire pressures. Lightening up on
>the accelerator through the curves should eliminate that sort of
>oversteer. Maybe running a pound or two more pressure in the rear
>tires than in the front would give you more grip. If the tires are 6
>to 10 years old, no matter how much tread and how good the quality, it
>is likely time to replace them. Safety issues aside, the tires just
>get hard and lose their grip. In dry weather, wider tires and wheels
>would give you more grip, too.
>
>As a long shot you might look into the alignment of all four wheels.
>It is just possible that misalignment could lose you some traction at
>the rear.
>
>Hang in there, in the corners, too :-)
>
>-Roland
>
>On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 13:52:43 -0800, Steve Tidwell
><sbtidwell@qualcomm.com> wrote:
>
>::
>:: I have owned my BN2 for a month or so and have been having a great time
>:: with it. Unfortunately due to the unusually soggy weather for southern
>:: California I have been able to put only about a hundred miles on it so
far.
>:: One thing that I have noticed is there is a great deal of over steer. I am
>:: guessing that this is typical with these cars, so I am also guessing there
>:: are known solutions. My first guess would be tire pressure. I was also
>:: wondering if there are limited slip diffs available? All advice is
appreciated.
>::
>:: Thanks,
>:: Steve Tidwell
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 21:29:53 EST
Subject: Re: Healey 100 Head
Yes we have a couple of used cylinder heads. What is wrong with his.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 23:30:40 -0500
Subject: Chrome wheels
Nearing completion of the restoration of a 60 BT7 and we've thought of going
with 60 spoke painted wheels all along. Now that the car is sharing a garage
with a friend's XK120 with chrome wires, it seems a shame to put the painted
wires on.
Who are the recommended sources for chrome 60 or 72 spoke wheels and is there
such a thing as used ones?
Regards,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, ONT
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 00:22:42 EST
Subject: Re: British Car Parts
Keith,
Try BritishCarSpecialists.com. Or email HLYDOC@aol.com They have a lot of
used parts.
John Soderling
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 00:34:05 EST
Subject: Re: over steer - alignment
Roland,
Is there a way to do a four-wheel alignment on a Healey? I took mine in for
an alignment when I first bought it 1 1/2 years ago and they charged me 40
bucks and said they only adjustment was the toe-in. I would like to get a
four wheel check or alignment. Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 22:31:29 -0800
Subject: Driving
It's early March here in western Washington and I've had the
Healey out three days in the last four in nice, sunny weather.
Lucky we don't live in Southern California where it rains all
the time!
Robert Hughes (born 'n raised in SoCal)
65 BJ8
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 19:42:27 -0800
Subject: Fw: SB42
For those interested in the issue of any pending action repealing
California SB42, please see the reply I received from my
Assemblywoman's office.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Nicholson, LaDonna
To: 'bsteele2@pacbell.net'
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:31 AM
Subject: RE: SB42
Dear Bruce:
Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
the
stipulations it holds.
Other owners of classic cars have been misinformed about CARB's
intentions.
The basis of this misinformation is from a July 1999 report CARB
turned out
with suggestions for lowering the level of smog in California. One
suggestion was to put a cap on the rolling smog elimination for older
cars,
1974 and older. This would not go into effect until 2004 and would
not
change the status of cars older then 1974.
However, this was only a suggestion in a report. It has not been
brought
forward to the Assembly and according to representatives at CARB,
there are
no plans for it to. I put in calls to CARB on a regular basis, so they
are
quite aware that if this changes, I am to be made aware of it.
Thank you for taking the time to write and if I can be of any
assistance,
please call the District Office at (714) 525-0175.
LaDonna Nicholson
Senior Assistant
Assemblywoman Lynn Daucher
72nd District.
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 09:28:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey 100 Head
Hi John,
IMHO $2500 for a 100 head is probably the top end IF it is in ready to install
and guaranteed to be free of cracks for which these heads are so notorious.We
have had some repaired over the years and a repair job that is done properly and
guaranteed not to crack is not inexpensive.
However you could pay another $500 and buy a new aluminium head from us and then
you would really be flying :-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
PINNSYSGRP@aol.com wrote:
> Hello listers:
>
> Really need your help on this one. I am trying to locate a Healey 100 head
> for a friend. I don't think it matters whether it's a BN1 or BN2; think they
> are the same. Does anyone out there know of anyone who might have one extra
> or know of parts sources that he can contact. We have located one, but the
> fellow wants $2500.00 for it. Is that the going rate?
>
> All replies welcomed.
>
> John Downing
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:34:22 EST
Subject: Re: Healey 100 Head
In a message dated 03/06/2001 6:51:44 PM Mountain Standard Time,
PINNSYSGRP@aol.com writes:
<<
Really need your help on this one. I am trying to locate a Healey 100 head
for a friend. I don't think it matters whether it's a BN1 or BN2; think they
are the same. Does anyone out there know of anyone who might have one extra
or know of parts sources that he can contact. We have located one, but the
fellow wants $2500.00 for it. Is that the going rate?
All replies welcomed.
John Downing
>>
You can buy a NEW, aluminum head with hardened seats, all done up from SC
Austin-Healey for around $1200 plus shipping (which won't be trivial, but
also shouldn't cost even $400). These heads, to my understanding, have all
the same markings cast into them as the original iron ones, use 3000 valves,
and work jsut fine -- maybe even better power than the original.
If you can find an uncracked origianl iron head, I woudl expect to pay
$500-$700 for it. On top of that, the cost to do seats and valves
(regrinding original valves) and bronze guides cost me around $180 recently.
Cost of valves woudl be in addition. This makes a new Al head even more
attractive.
By the way, it is my understanding that SC uses a spectacle seat -- not
separate circles. David Jeffreys did a lot of research and testing when
developing this head, and it has been available for a numbr of years. It was
also written up in one of the club magazines a few years back -- I think AHCA
Chatter.
Roger
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:55:51 +0800
Subject: Healey Badges for 3000
Hi All
Just putting the finishing touches to my 59 BT7 and noticed that the red
inlay on the Austin Healey Badge has partially fallen out. What type of
material is this and how can I repair it?
My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6 badge on
the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left corner). For my
restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I install
3000 flashes back and front.
So close and I still have these little problems to solve.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 nearly there
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:01:17 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Nail Polish works great it wont last as long as the original but there is
only about
100,000 different reds in nail polish so you are sure to find the right one.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:19:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
John:
It's your car and do as you please, but I'd do the original badging.
Change it and somewhere down the road, post-John Rowe, the changes
will be presumed to be original and that little bit of history will be
lost!
:-)
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: Healey Badges for 3000
>
>Hi All
>
>Just putting the finishing touches to my 59 BT7 and noticed that the
red
>inlay on the Austin Healey Badge has partially fallen out. What type
of
>material is this and how can I repair it?
>
>My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6
badge on
>the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
>confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left corner).
For my
>restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I
install
>3000 flashes back and front.
>
>So close and I still have these little problems to solve.
>
>TIA
>
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 nearly there
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 08:18:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Driving
Just watch those cracks in the road Robert....Neil, Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: Driving
>
> It's early March here in western Washington and I've had the
> Healey out three days in the last four in nice, sunny weather.
> Lucky we don't live in Southern California where it rains all
> the time!
>
> Robert Hughes (born 'n raised in SoCal)
> 65 BJ8
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:53:56 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: SB42 California Interest Only
In a message dated 3/7/01 3:17:09 AM, bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:
<<
Dear Bruce:
Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
the
stipulations it holds. >>
It will be interesting to see if we get similar responses from other
legislators to the same effect. If so, I would be ready to write a strong
letter to the "Association of California Car Clubs" about the credibility of
their lobbyist. Their latest newsletter made it seem as if the roll-back was
likely to go into effect within days.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Publisher, British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 08:56:45 -0800
Subject: Re: SB42
YES!!!!!
>
> For those interested in the issue of any pending action repealing
> California SB42, please see the reply I received from my
> Assemblywoman's office.
>
> Bruce
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Nicholson, LaDonna
> To: 'bsteele2@pacbell.net'
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:31 AM
> Subject: RE: SB42
>
>
> Dear Bruce:
>
> Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
>
> Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
> issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
> the
> stipulations it holds.
>
> Other owners of classic cars have been misinformed about CARB's
> intentions.
> The basis of this misinformation is from a July 1999 report CARB
> turned out
> with suggestions for lowering the level of smog in California. One
> suggestion was to put a cap on the rolling smog elimination for older
> cars,
> 1974 and older. This would not go into effect until 2004 and would
> not
> change the status of cars older then 1974.
>
> However, this was only a suggestion in a report. It has not been
> brought
> forward to the Assembly and according to representatives at CARB,
> there are
> no plans for it to. I put in calls to CARB on a regular basis, so they
> are
> quite aware that if this changes, I am to be made aware of it.
>
> Thank you for taking the time to write and if I can be of any
> assistance,
> please call the District Office at (714) 525-0175.
>
> LaDonna Nicholson
> Senior Assistant
> Assemblywoman Lynn Daucher
> 72nd District.
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:07:19 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
In a message dated 3/7/01 7:00:32 AM, jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au writes:
<< My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6 badge on
the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left corner). For my
restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I install
3000 flashes back and front. >>
Don't have any suggestions on repairing your "Wings" though there are good
quality reproductions (with screw backs rather than the pegs) available from
some suppliers. ('course, there are also schlock repros as well out there.)
Since you're in Australia you don't need to worry about concours inspections,
I guess. If you were expecting to have the car registered in the North
American Registry, I'd suggest you restore the car exactly as you found it --
100-6 flash on the front grille and no extra flash on the rear, then point
out the difference to the judges to show that you had carefully restored the
car and carefully read the concours standards -- which note that the first
100 or so "3000s" probably didn't have the new insignia on them. On the
other hand, if you're concerned about the saleability of the car to someone
who might not be willing to pay as much for a "100-6" then you would probably
want to at least fit a 3000 flash on the front grille.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:15:06 -0800
Subject: British Car show in Dixon
List,
Just wanted to spread the word for the annual Dixon show in Northern
California. Web site is attached that has a map and entry form. There are
usually about 200 cars and a swap meet.
The Year 2001 Annual All British Motorcar Show & Swap Meet - Sunday, May 20,
2001
Presented by The United British Sports Car Club, Sacramento
Dixon Fairgrounds - Dixon, CA
Directions: Take Highway 113 South From I-80; Drive 2.3 miles to
Fairgrounds on the left. (see map)
OPEN TO ALL BRITISH VEHICLES, ANY CONDITION
Peoples Choice Car Show
FOR MORE DETAILS CALL: (916) 488-9628, (916) 979-1007, or (209) 957-1746
(Click here for entry form)
http://www.ubscc.org/index.htm
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:42:58 -0800
Subject: not Healey related, but rather amazing!!
Check out this Jet powered car on ebay, Oh My!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=566827966
John Pagel
Data Manager
Tel: (916) 265-4230
mailto:john.pagel@iMotors.com
iMotors
You've never bought a used car like this.
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 18:41:41 -0000
Subject: Re: Healey 100 Head
John,
We have I believe it is four good used cylinder heads for the Healey 100
[have been crack tested]. one is almost brand new fully gas flowed,
polished and ported also converted to unleaded.
Prices start at $500 US.
David..
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: PINNSYSGRP@aol.com <PINNSYSGRP@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: john@pinnaclesystemsgroup.com <john@pinnaclesystemsgroup.com>
Date: 07 March 2001 02:18
Subject: Healey 100 Head
>
>Hello listers:
>
>Really need your help on this one. I am trying to locate a Healey 100 head
>for a friend. I don't think it matters whether it's a BN1 or BN2; think
they
>are the same. Does anyone out there know of anyone who might have one extra
>or know of parts sources that he can contact. We have located one, but the
>fellow wants $2500.00 for it. Is that the going rate?
>
>All replies welcomed.
>
>John Downing
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 14:02:51 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
The badges are finished in chrome plating and cloissene, an enamelling
process that is done at high temperature. During manufacture, I believe the
enamelling was done first and then the plating afterwards as the final step.
There is no one I know of in this country who does good enamelling. I'm sure
they're out there, but hte one place I tried years ago did a miserable job.
P-D Enamels in England does outstanding work. However, the cost (about $80 +
postage each way) wouldn't be justified for a "driver". You can look for a
used badge or buy a repro available form many parts houses.
If anyone on our list has actual experience with a good enameller in the US
I'd like to know of them.
Roger
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 14:37:04 EST
Subject: BJ8 front shroud
Someone here in the Denver area is looking for a decent front shroud for a
Phase II BJ8 --- withthe separate front turn siganal and runnign lights.
He is willing to consider shiping from elsewhere, but I'm just asking if
anyone has one to sell. I'll let you work the details out with him directly.
Roger
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:11:24 EST
Subject: Re: DIRECTV friends & family offer (No Healey Content)
If anyone missed out on the initial Friends and Family Program Offer, the
company has extended the program through the end of May, 2001.
If you're interested simply do the following:
Call (877) 407-4344 and give the operator my name and employee ID: Alfred
Haymond, P9520
(If you need additional info, please email me offline)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Have you been contemplating whether or not to get DIRECTV? Here's a pretty
cool deal we're offering.
The company is once again aggressively campaigning to get a DIRECTV box and
satellite into every home. To this end, they are offering the receiver and
dish "free of charge" (though there is a shipping and handling charge of
about $25.00. The same $25 you'd spend in a week on Taco Bell, Super Lotto
tickets & Videos). Basic installation is included in the deal as well.
I know there are a lot of retail stores touting the equipment with pretty
enticing deals, but dig it. You're not locked into any long term commitments
(only one month minimum required once the service is activated). There are no
rebate hassles. And you wont get an outdated product (you'd receive the
latest SONY or RCA receiver and dish).
At any rate, I've attached the official company documentation which goes a
long way in answering questions about the monthly service charges, various
packages offered & general 411 (about additional receivers, pay-per-views,
etc.).
Yes, the local channels are available (2,4,5,7,9 and 11) on DIRECTV. Channel
13 is up in the air for obvious reasons.
Yes, you can hook additional receivers up to the satellite dish and watch TV
independently of the other receiver.
Yes, it is compatible with TiVO
I've had the service myself for over 3 years (duh) and without a doubt, there
is something for everyone in the family to watch.
Far from being evangelical about DIRECTV, I can truly say, it's a helluva lot
better than cable, it's the future, customer service is much better than
dealing with local cable companies and you're getting the equipment for free
(no more lame cable box rentals).
If you are currently a subscriber, you can extend the offer to another
friend, family member, co-worker, associate, etc - provided they use my name
and ID when contacting the operator.
If anyone is interested simply do the following:
Call (877) 407-4344 and give the operator my name and employee ID: Alfred
Haymond, P9520
If there are any questions that you feel weren't address in the attached
documentation, please give me a call or email.
Alfred Haymond
Systems Analyst II, Network Control Ctr.
DIRECTV
(310) 964-0681 ph
(310) 964-1106 fx
From "Malcolm Bruce" <malcolm at procurcorp.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:04:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
While we are on the topic does anyone have a good to excellent Mark II [2]
badge available. Please contact me off list, thanks.
Mal Bruce
BJ8,MGC,BJ7[today]
-----Original Message-----
From: Rmoment@aol.com <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>;
healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
>
>The badges are finished in chrome plating and cloissene, an enamelling
>process that is done at high temperature. During manufacture, I believe
the
>enamelling was done first and then the plating afterwards as the final
step.
>
>There is no one I know of in this country who does good enamelling. I'm
sure
>they're out there, but hte one place I tried years ago did a miserable job.
>
>P-D Enamels in England does outstanding work. However, the cost (about $80
+
>postage each way) wouldn't be justified for a "driver". You can look for a
>used badge or buy a repro available form many parts houses.
>
>If anyone on our list has actual experience with a good enameller in the US
>I'd like to know of them.
>
>Roger
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 16:31:20 EST
Subject: Re: Driving (SoCal)
It's been the wettest winter in a long time here in San Diego and my daily
driver had been out of commission for over a month leaving my Healey as my main
means of transport.
I used the hardtop and side curtains and got a good soaking on more than one
occasion. Having no top pad and an ealier style trim on my dash, I've not yet
fitted scuttle seals near the door tops and the pillar seals are dry and
worthless so my left leg would get fairly wet regularly.
Saturday was nice and sunny so I pulled off the top and took out the seats for
some airing out...
Rick
San Diego
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 16:31:21 EST
Subject: Re: Driving (SoCal)
It's been the wettest winter in a long time here in San Diego and my daily
driver had been out of commission for over a month leaving my Healey as my main
means of transport.
I used the hardtop and side curtains and got a good soaking on more than one
occasion. Having no top pad and an ealier style trim on my dash, I've not yet
fitted scuttle seals near the door tops and the pillar seals are dry and
worthless so my left leg would get fairly wet regularly.
Saturday was nice and sunny so I pulled off the top and took out the seats for
some airing out...
Rick
San Diego
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:41:46 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 front shroud
Anyone on the West Coast have a lead on a good front shroud for BJ8
late'64-flavored, not the big plastic lamps?
Thanks...Andy
From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:53:18 -0500
Subject: Re: over steer - alignment
John: He's right. The only real alignment adjustment on the big Healey is
toe-in. Any other alignment problem probably means a bent frame or some
other malady. Eccentric bushings are available to change camber, but these
aren't usually used on a street car.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JSoderling@aol.com>
To: <rwil@cts.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 12:34 AM
Subject: Re: over steer - alignment
>
> Roland,
> Is there a way to do a four-wheel alignment on a Healey? I took mine in
for
> an alignment when I first bought it 1 1/2 years ago and they charged me 40
> bucks and said they only adjustment was the toe-in. I would like to get a
> four wheel check or alignment. Thanks.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 17:03:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving (SoCal)
British motor cars build character!
Jim D
1960BT7 like a sieve.
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> It's been the wettest winter in a long time here in San Diego and my daily
>driver had been out of commission for over a month leaving my Healey as my
>main means of transport.
> I used the hardtop and side curtains and got a good soaking on more than one
>occasion. Having no top pad and an ealier style trim on my dash, I've not yet
>fitted scuttle seals near the door tops and the pillar seals are dry and
>worthless so my left leg would get fairly wet regularly.
> Saturday was nice and sunny so I pulled off the top and took out the seats
>for some airing out...
>
> Rick
> San Diego
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 14:00:00 -0800
Subject: Re: SB42
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance (Thomas Jefferson). I trust CARB
as far as I can pick up my Healey and throw it. Just think 'SMOG Check II'
and 'MTBE'.
The newspapers in the last few days have been reporting that the Supreme
Court upheld the way the government sets air-quality standards. The court
unanimously rejected industry arguments that the Environmental Protection
Agency must consider financial cost as well as health benefits in writing
standards. New EPA Administrator Christie Whitman said the decision was "a
solid endorsement of EPA's efforts to protect the health of millions of
Americans from the dangers of air pollution". Justice Antonin Scalia wrote
for the court that the clean-air law "unambiguously bars cost
considerations" from the process of setting air quality standards.
Should CARB seize upon this decision and decide that our older cars should
not be exempt because they are producing too much pollution, they can push
for changes and may have started already even though they deny it. The fact
that they 'suggested' it in a report is red flag enough. It will not matter
the cost of the loss of business or livelihood for parts manufacturers or
suppliers, paint manufacturers or suppliers, restorers, mechanics, painters,
insurance companies, etc., etc., that support the
vintage/collector car industry. And remember, what happens in California
generally spreads to other states.
We can not let our guard down for a moment if we want to keep our cars on
the road. Remember, there ARE people out there whose goal is to remove all
gasoline powered vehicles from our highways.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Steele" <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Fw: SB42
>
> For those interested in the issue of any pending action repealing
> California SB42, please see the reply I received from my
> Assemblywoman's office.
>
> Bruce
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Nicholson, LaDonna
> To: 'bsteele2@pacbell.net'
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:31 AM
> Subject: RE: SB42
>
>
> Dear Bruce:
>
> Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
>
> Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
> issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
> the
> stipulations it holds.
>
> Other owners of classic cars have been misinformed about CARB's
> intentions.
> The basis of this misinformation is from a July 1999 report CARB
> turned out
> with suggestions for lowering the level of smog in California. One
> suggestion was to put a cap on the rolling smog elimination for older
> cars,
> 1974 and older. This would not go into effect until 2004 and would
> not
> change the status of cars older then 1974.
>
> However, this was only a suggestion in a report. It has not been
> brought
> forward to the Assembly and according to representatives at CARB,
> there are
> no plans for it to. I put in calls to CARB on a regular basis, so they
> are
> quite aware that if this changes, I am to be made aware of it.
>
> Thank you for taking the time to write and if I can be of any
> assistance,
> please call the District Office at (714) 525-0175.
>
> LaDonna Nicholson
> Senior Assistant
> Assemblywoman Lynn Daucher
> 72nd District.
From "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1 at bp.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:05:14 -0600
Subject: Wiring Diagram BN6/BN7
Listners
I'm deep in the throws of a restoring a 1958 BN6, modified with an early
3000 engine (29D series). I have a new wiring harness but no wiring
diagram. Does anyone out there have a wiring diagram for a BN6 which they
would be willing to copy and send to me or is there source out in the healey
world to purchase the same. Is it included in any of the many books on the
marque?
All suggestions welcome
Philip Whitaker
Houston TX
BN6 (in 1006 pieces at least)
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 14:22:13 -0800
Subject: Transmission RnR Question
Rick & List,
I'll be removing my trans/OD soon. Ordered the Tranny Jack (Harbor Freight)
per your suggestion.
Question--with the seats out, prop shaft removed & use of TJack--is it
possible to get the trans/OD far enough back from under the dashboard to
lift it up out of the car with a come along as a 1-person undertaking? Then
the car can be rolled out from under it.
Or is it just easier to get a neighbor to help lift it out of the car?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if you're
> doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the pilot
> bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own. I
> found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
> to be helpful and well worth the $70.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:46:31 EST
Subject: Re: SB42
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:05:58 PM, thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
<< We can not let our guard down for a moment if we want to keep our cars on
the road. Remember, there ARE people out there whose goal is to remove all
gasoline powered vehicles from our highways.
Len. >>
Hear, Hear! just because we got a note from a legislator that CARB isn't
right now considering a roll-back of SB42 doesn't mean it couldn't happen.
So I don't think our letters will be wasted, even if the issue isn't on the
table right now. Besides, it keeps the vigilance network in practice.
Cheers
Gary
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:52:22 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagram BN6/BN7
In a message dated 3/7/01 2:22:18 PM, whitakp1@bp.com writes:
<< Does anyone out there have a wiring diagram for a BN6 which they
would be willing to copy and send to me or is there source out in the healey
world to purchase the same. Is it included in any of the many books on the
marque? >>
You should be able to find it in the standard Bentley-published Healey
100-Six/3000 workshop manual, which was rumored to be out of print but is now
available again through our British Car Magazine's bookshop and your club
book suppliers. Unless I'm mistaken, the BN6 is pretty much the same as the
BN7/BT7.
One good tip -- take the book to your local copy service (e.g. Kinko's) and
have them enlarge it onto the biggest sheet of paper they have (most places
can make it on a piece of 11x17 paper at the very least. That makes reading
much easier.
Another tip from a friend. Mount one copy on a piece of light plyboard
(another copy, of course, with your tools in the boot) and overlay it with a
piece of clear plastic. Then you can use a whiteboard pen to trace a
particular circuit for reference and then wipe it clean for re-use.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:53:30 EST
Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
Hi, I wrote a detailed article on how to do this that was published in the
Nov. '95 issue of Austin Healey Magazine. Since my car was a concours Gold
one I was concerned not only with getting the "thing" out and back in, but
also not damaging the trim or scratching any paint. If you don't need to be
so careful, you can ignore some of my precautions. Still, the method of
moving it about in the cockpit would apply regardless of how careful you're
trying to be.
Roger
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 18:00:26 EST
Subject: Re: SB42
Just how strict would the California emissions test be if older cars were
required to pass it? Here in Colorado, all cars 1960 and newer must pass the
test and that's at an altitude of 5000 ft or more. They test for CO and
hydrocarbons. The passing level depends on the age of the car with tighter
limits for newer cars. Somehow we get the cars to pass although some are
easier than others. One saving grace here is that with a collector's plate
(25 years old or more) you have to pay for 5 years registration up front but
the emission test is only required when the car changes ownership.
Ray G
Colorado
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:25:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving (SoCal)
that horrible san diego weather should make everyone happy to be l;iving
whereever.
----- Original Message -----
From: WilKo@aol.com
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Driving (SoCal)
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 16:31:20 EST
It's been the wettest winter in a long time here in San Diego and my daily
driver had been out of commission for over a month leaving my Healey as my main
means of transport.
I used the hardtop and side curtains and got a good soaking on more than one
occasion. Having no top pad and an ealier style trim on my dash, I've not yet
fitted scuttle seals near the door tops and the pillar seals are dry and
worthless so my left leg would get fairly wet regularly.
Saturday was nice and sunny so I pulled off the top and took out the seats for
some airing out...
Rick
San Diego
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 18:49:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
Steve,
I believe that you will find the drive shaft tunnel will get in the way of
what you are proposing. The tranny will only come back 3-4 inches before
you need to come up a lot. Not enough room to get in any kind of lift.
Get a 6 pack and a neighgor.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: Transmission RnR Question
>
> Rick & List,
> I'll be removing my trans/OD soon. Ordered the Tranny Jack (Harbor
Freight)
> per your suggestion.
> Question--with the seats out, prop shaft removed & use of TJack--is it
> possible to get the trans/OD far enough back from under the dashboard to
> lift it up out of the car with a come along as a 1-person undertaking?
Then
> the car can be rolled out from under it.
> Or is it just easier to get a neighbor to help lift it out of the car?
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
>
>
> >
> > I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if
you're
> > doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the pilot
> > bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own. I
> > found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
> > (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
> > to be helpful and well worth the $70.
> >
>
> > Happy Healeying,
> > Rick
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:10:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagram BN6/BN7
Phillip,
Replaced the wiring har on my BN7 about year and half ago. The har I got
(was told there was none available for the BN7) was for a BT7.
The primary difference is that the white/black wire from the coil should not
go into the boot to the cutoff switch. Since the cutoff is located on the
back trunk wall the white/black wire feeds to it from the rear axle tunnel.
Rather than bring the wire back through the wall to the cutoff, I decided to
try to pull it out of the rear harness in the area of the cutoff.
Cut a small slit in the loom and fished out a little of the wire. Pulled a
lot but the wire would not come from the rear. Pulled harder and it broke.
Pulled the wire out through the rear and soldered in a piece of it at the
break and attached it then to the cutoff.
Keith Pennell
----- Original Message -----
From: Whitaker, Philip J <whitakp1@bp.com>
To: Healeys (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:05 PM
Subject: Wiring Diagram BN6/BN7
>
> Listners
>
> I'm deep in the throws of a restoring a 1958 BN6, modified with an early
> 3000 engine (29D series). I have a new wiring harness but no wiring
> diagram. Does anyone out there have a wiring diagram for a BN6 which
they
> would be willing to copy and send to me or is there source out in the
healey
> world to purchase the same. Is it included in any of the many books on
the
> marque?
>
> All suggestions welcome
>
> Philip Whitaker
> Houston TX
> BN6 (in 1006 pieces at least)
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:26:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Transmission RnR Question
Once you have the bell housing unbolted from the block and
the drive shaft and rear mounts unbolted, you will need to
slide the gearbox toward the rear of the car, into the
drive shaft tunnel. Slide it back until the first
motion shaft is clear of the clutch.
Once the first motion shaft is clear, turn the front of the
box toward the passenger's footwell and slide it into the
footwell until the rear flange clears the drive shaft tunnel.
Now you can turn the box perpendicular and remove it
from the car.
You can do the whole thing by yourself without a hoist if
you take the bell housing off before removing the box
from the car.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Gerow
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:22 PM
To: JXLmail@aol.com; Healeys
Subject: Transmission RnR Question
Rick & List,
I'll be removing my trans/OD soon. Ordered the Tranny Jack (Harbor Freight)
per your suggestion.
Question--with the seats out, prop shaft removed & use of TJack--is it
possible to get the trans/OD far enough back from under the dashboard to
lift it up out of the car with a come along as a 1-person undertaking? Then
the car can be rolled out from under it.
Or is it just easier to get a neighbor to help lift it out of the car?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if
you're
> doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the pilot
> bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own. I
> found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
> (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
> to be helpful and well worth the $70.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:06:24 EST
Subject: Preservation of Historical Materials
Several days ago someone asked about storing printed materials. I haven't
seen any answers so here goes.
Try Gaylord Bros. P.O. Box 4901, Syracuse, NY 13221-4901. They sell archival
storage materials (boxes, folders, etc.)
They are also on the net at www.gaylord.com
There is a series of 5 pamphlets covering all kinds of questions about
storage of printed materials that they offer for free. Go to their website
and click on "Archival Products Assistance"
No interest in the company, etc., etc.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
JohnbS7257@aol.com
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:12:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Just my opinion, but I would only put the original badges back on. I'm
in the same boat, my BT7 #862 was built in April 59 and only has the
Austin Healey badge on the boot lid. It does have the 3000 flash in
the front. The red inlay is called Cloisenay (sp?) but I don't know
how to repair it.
Good Luck,
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 6:55 AM
Subject: Healey Badges for 3000
>
> Hi All
>
> Just putting the finishing touches to my 59 BT7 and noticed that the
red
> inlay on the Austin Healey Badge has partially fallen out. What type
of
> material is this and how can I repair it?
>
> My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6
badge on
> the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
> confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left
corner). For my
> restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I
install
> 3000 flashes back and front.
>
> So close and I still have these little problems to solve.
>
> TIA
>
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 nearly there
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:38:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagram BN6/BN7
Don't know where you ordered from Keith;
<<Replaced the wiring har on my BN7 about year and half ago. The har I
got
(was told there was none available for the BN7) was for a BT7.>>
but I have available!!
Ed
From jbpate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:42:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Vintage sportscar racing
I went last year to the SCCA Enduro race at VIR in October. It is a fantastic
facility and really laid back. My entire family really enjoyed the day. I will
definitely be going back this year. Barry Pate Chapel Hill, NC
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> May 5-6 the VSCCA will be at Virginia International Raceway. VIR is located
> several miles southeast of Danville, VA a mile or so north of the NC line. It
> is a track which goes back to the 50s through early 70s and reopened about a
> year ago I understand with the help of some BIG bucks (read millions) from a
> Raleigh, NC sportscar enthusiast. Track, buildings, even the water in the
> pond is all new!
>
> I am no racer, just a spectator, but it is a first class facility. Jim Smith
> on this list can tell you about things from the racer's perspective. A friend
> and I did manage several "controlled" laps last fall in his 84 Vette on the
> full course (it is made up of a North course and South course) and the entire,
> new pavement is as slick as a baby's butt.
>
> Go to www.virclub.com/ for pictures, schedule, ticket prices, etc. A year ago
> the web site was much more complete with numerous pictures of the facility,
> track map, descriptions and so on. Don't know why it is so skimpy now.
>
> How about as many of us as can meet there that weekend? Jim says he will be
> racing his 100 and there will likely be several Sprites as last year. Contact
> me if you want motel suggestions.
>
> It really is a beautiful, newfacility.
>
> Keith Pennell
> Newport News, VA
From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 22:32:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Chrome wheels
Chris,
I purchased 60-spoke chrome wire wheels from British Wire Wheel for my 59
BT7. I bought the 15x5 Daytons, with 175x15 Michelin ZX, tubless mount.
Before you go with this read the recent thread on tubeless vs. tubed. I
have had no trouble with my tubeless, but haven't had to tune the wheels yet
as they have < 1000 miles on them. Also, if you are thinking of having your
car judged, you might want to consider the 15x4.5 Dunlop wheels, as the
Daytons will result in a (small) deduction, according to the guidelines for
judging. I was very happy with the service from BWW.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
----------
>From: "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall@mnsi.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Chrome wheels
>Date: Tue, Mar 6, 2001, 9:30 PM
>
>
> Nearing completion of the restoration of a 60 BT7 and we've thought of going
> with 60 spoke painted wheels all along. Now that the car is sharing a garage
> with a friend's XK120 with chrome wires, it seems a shame to put the painted
> wires on.
>
> Who are the recommended sources for chrome 60 or 72 spoke wheels and is there
> such a thing as used ones?
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Woodall
> Windsor, ONT
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:21:52 EST
Subject: Re: SB42
Listers,
After reading the recent posts concerning possible laws to take away our
cars, and the fact that I just moved out of NJ where I was familiar with Ms.
Whitman, I am ever disgusted by her. She is the epitome of a politician and
nothing besides. She has been trading one thing for another against the
voters wishes for years in NJ. Why should I be surprised that she is still
scum. I cringed when I heard that she had been made the head of the EPA,
because I knew what was coming. Does anyone else out there know how she
lowered auto insurance rates?
Politicians have forever been short sighted and small minded, which is why I
consider most of them to be crooks. I am now convinced that Ms. Whitman must
be the bride of Satan. How could 0.01 ( if that) percent of the vehicles on
the road be the root cause of the problem? They can't be. Why doesn't this
moron force factories to update, instead of allowing them to pay a $200K per
year fine for ten years? Why...because the update costs $10 million, it only
costs $2 million to be in violation, and that leaves $8 million to lobby with.
Might I suggest that everyone on this list start writing letters. This is
most likely only the beginning of the fight.
Stepping down,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:25:47 EST
Subject: Re: SB42
Listers,
After reading the recent posts concerning possible laws to take away our
cars, and the fact that I just moved out of NJ where I was familiar with Ms.
Whitman, I am ever disgusted by her. She is the epitome of a politician and
nothing besides. She has been trading one thing for another against the
voters wishes for years in NJ. Why should I be surprised that she is still
scum. I cringed when I heard that she had been made the head of the EPA,
because I knew what was coming. Does anyone else out there know how she
lowered auto insurance rates?
Politicians have forever been short sighted and small minded, which is why I
consider most of them to be crooks. I am now convinced that Ms. Whitman must
be the bride of Satan. How could 0.01 ( if that) percent of the vehicles on
the road be the root cause of the problem? They can't be. Why doesn't this
moron force factories to update, instead of allowing them to pay a $200K per
year fine for ten years? Why...because the update costs $10 million, it only
costs $2 million to be in violation, and that leaves $8 million to lobby with.
Might I suggest that everyone on this list start writing letters. This is
most likely only the beginning of the fight.
Stepping down,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:08:04 -0700
Subject: Re: over steer - alignment
The fact that the rear wheels are suspended on a solid rear axle, assuming the
axle housing is not bent, means the rear wheels should always be aligned. The
only thing that will change their alignment is damage to the springs, chassis
or panhard rod. The front alignment other than toe is set, within tolerance, by
the chassis design and construction. Again, the only thing that will change it
is some type of damage to the chassis.
Bill Lawrence
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Roland,
> Is there a way to do a four-wheel alignment on a Healey? I took mine in for
> an alignment when I first bought it 1 1/2 years ago and they charged me 40
> bucks and said they only adjustment was the toe-in. I would like to get a
> four wheel check or alignment. Thanks.
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:13:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
Hi Steve,
You can lift it out on your own no problem. Put a nylon sling or rope at the
end of the gear box, stand in the car and lift it out. I put it back the
same way.
Eat your weenies before you start.
Regards, Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>; <JXLmail@aol.com>; Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
>
> Steve,
>
> I believe that you will find the drive shaft tunnel will get in the way of
> what you are proposing. The tranny will only come back 3-4 inches before
> you need to come up a lot. Not enough room to get in any kind of lift.
>
> Get a 6 pack and a neighgor.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:22 PM
> Subject: Transmission RnR Question
>
>
> >
> > Rick & List,
> > I'll be removing my trans/OD soon. Ordered the Tranny Jack (Harbor
> Freight)
> > per your suggestion.
> > Question--with the seats out, prop shaft removed & use of TJack--is it
> > possible to get the trans/OD far enough back from under the dashboard to
> > lift it up out of the car with a come along as a 1-person undertaking?
> Then
> > the car can be rolled out from under it.
> > Or is it just easier to get a neighbor to help lift it out of the car?
> > Thanks in advance for any advice.
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if
> you're
> > > doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the
pilot
> > > bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own.
I
> > > found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
> > >
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
> > > to be helpful and well worth the $70.
> > >
> >
> > > Happy Healeying,
> > > Rick
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 23:34:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Just a helpful note to you anglo guys, you have been misspelling
"cloisonni", the baked enamel process used for the Austin-Healey wing
emblem. Cloison refers to the little partitions of metal created to
keep the different colored enamels from running to each other during
baking, in the case of a multi-coloured pin, for example. Class
dismissed.
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:42:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Cloissene is done with small glass beads, a very hot torch, and noxious
chemicals for the colors. A friend of mine has pins made over in Asia.
Cheers
John
At 10:55 PM 3/7/01 +0800, John Rowe wrote:
>Hi All
>
>Just putting the finishing touches to my 59 BT7 and noticed that the red
>inlay on the Austin Healey Badge has partially fallen out. What type of
>material is this and how can I repair it?
>
>My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6 badge on
>the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
>confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left corner). For my
>restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I install
>3000 flashes back and front.
>
>So close and I still have these little problems to solve.
>
>TIA
>
>
>Regards
>
>John Rowe
>Perth
>Western Australia
>BT7 nearly there
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:42:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
"Cloisonni" Enamelware in which the surface decoration is formed by
different colors of enamel separated by thin strips of metal. Your spelling
pronunciation was right-on...Neil ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: "John Rowe" <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
>
> Just my opinion, but I would only put the original badges back on. I'm
> in the same boat, my BT7 #862 was built in April 59 and only has the
> Austin Healey badge on the boot lid. It does have the 3000 flash in
> the front. The red inlay is called Cloisenay (sp?) but I don't know
> how to repair it.
> Good Luck,
> Mark Fawcett
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Rowe <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 6:55 AM
> Subject: Healey Badges for 3000
>
>
> >
> > Hi All
> >
> > Just putting the finishing touches to my 59 BT7 and noticed that the
> red
> > inlay on the Austin Healey Badge has partially fallen out. What type
> of
> > material is this and how can I repair it?
> >
> > My car was the twelfth 3000 built and probably came with a 100-6
> badge on
> > the grille and only the Austin Healey badge on the trunk. ( This is
> > confirmed by only 3 holes in the trunk lid in the lower left
> corner). For my
> > restoration should I refit those original badges only or should I
> install
> > 3000 flashes back and front.
> >
> > So close and I still have these little problems to solve.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > John Rowe
> > Perth
> > Western Australia
> > BT7 nearly there
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 22:56:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Webster's (anglo version) spells it cloisonne' (pronounced:
kloy-sen-ay').
Rudi Markl
100M
Alain Giguhre wrote:
>
> Just a helpful note to you anglo guys, you have been misspelling
> "cloisonni", the baked enamel process used for the Austin-Healey wing
> emblem. Cloison refers to the little partitions of metal created to
> keep the different colored enamels from running to each other during
> baking, in the case of a multi-coloured pin, for example. Class
> dismissed.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 17:53:14 -0800
Subject: web site update
Hello All
I have just made an interesting addition to my web site, a quarter full
size (yes you read it right) drawing of the Healey 100. Four views are
depicted on the drawing which is 5'8" long by 2'10" high. That is 1735mm
by 864mm. While it will not reproduce on a normal A4 printer it is worth
the effort of having it printed by a commercial Plan Printer or
Photocopying business, so I suggest copying it to disc and having it
done as it will make great garage wall paper. I would appreciate some
feedback from those that do, as I am interested to learn if you can get
this done at various locations around the globe. The file is in G4
compressed tif format with a file size of 300KB so it will fit on a
standard floppy. It is located with Healey and Austin Drawings on the
site.
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 00:56:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
I removed and replaced my transmission by myself. Just support it, undo all
the bolts and it comes right out, overdrive and all. It's not that heavy. If
you can get a buddy to help you it's a piece of cake.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:22 PM
Subject: Transmission RnR Question
>
> Rick & List,
> I'll be removing my trans/OD soon. Ordered the Tranny Jack (Harbor
Freight)
> per your suggestion.
> Question--with the seats out, prop shaft removed & use of TJack--is it
> possible to get the trans/OD far enough back from under the dashboard to
> lift it up out of the car with a come along as a 1-person undertaking?
Then
> the car can be rolled out from under it.
> Or is it just easier to get a neighbor to help lift it out of the car?
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
>
>
> >
> > I've found the installation to be more difficult than the removal if
you're
> > doing this as a one-person job. Aligning the input shaft into the pilot
> > bearing can be frustrating if you're trying to handle it on your own. I
> > found a transmission jack carried by Harbor Freight
> > (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178)
> > to be helpful and well worth the $70.
> >
>
> > Happy Healeying,
> > Rick
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 01:40:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
Alain, mon ami, I believe your spelling is also in error. It should end in
an e with either an accente egue or the other one grave?
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
>
> Just a helpful note to you anglo guys, you have been misspelling
> "cloisonni", the baked enamel process used for the Austin-Healey wing
> emblem. Cloison refers to the little partitions of metal created to
> keep the different colored enamels from running to each other during
> baking, in the case of a multi-coloured pin, for example. Class
> dismissed.
From Ray Bradbery <raymond at optushome.com.au>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 19:38:38 +1100
Subject: AH BN7
I am in the process of restoring a 1959 BN7 which has been imported from
the UK after sitting in a barn for 21 years.
The car has now been totally disassembled and restoration commenced.
Hoping to have it back on the road before Christmas.
I have most things under control but wonder if anyone can provide advice
on a good place (preferably in NSW, Australia) to have my seats
retrimmed, and also to have the wiring loom rebraided with cloth.
Regards
Ray Bradbery
59 BN7
51 MGTD
From "john.metcalfe3" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 08:26:19 +0000
Subject: dwawing prints
Larry,
This is my first contact with the group and I can give you the positive
feed back that you require.
I have spent most of my career (33 years) as a freelance design
draughtsman, only now it is using Computer Aided Design. It does not
matter what format a drawing is in for standard printing, the printer or
plotter is set as the default printer just the same as the standard A4
printer. A thermal printer will give the best results.
If you wnt more info contact me off line.
For what it is worth I was bitten by the Healey bug and have just
finished restoring my first early BN4 with another BN4 and 2-off BT7
still to go at.
Regards
John Metcalfe
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 19:55:32 +0800
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000 and repairing them
David
Thanks for that advise.
I consulted the financial manager and we had the correct colour in the
bathroom cabinet. We have done the tempory repair and it looks great. I will
get it errantly repaired after our National Rally in April.
Regards
John Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
To: <jarowe@connect.comdek.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
> Nail Polish works great it wont last as long as the original but there is
> only about
> 100,000 different reds in nail polish so you are sure to find the right
one.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From PINNSYSGRP at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:53:22 EST
Subject: Healey 100 head responses
To all:
Thanks so very much for all the feedback in response to my request
surrounding the Healey 100 head. Thus far I have received about twenty
responses and have passed them all to my friend, Barry. I must explain that
Barry is a Doctor who I met at a car show show last fall where my wife and I
were showing both my '54 MG TF 1500 and her '61 Healey 3000 BT7. (Yes, the
Healey is hers!) I didn't hear anything further from him until recently when
he contacted me about the cracked head and enlisting my help through this
venue. I mentioned that this informal gathering of Healeyites would surely
come through for him and he was overwhelmed by the response from all of you.
I can pass along both his and my thanks. I suppose he will now contact those
individuals and companies that responded to locate what he wants.
My sincere thanks for all your help.
John Downing
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:11:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
I was surprised to see my note posted with a mistake. Cloisonne (the
accented "e" on my Mac keyboard turned into an"i" on the list) has an
accent that points toward the end of the word. More fodder for the
Mac/PC debates.
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 11:54:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
You should have picked up on Alain's comments. He was too modest to make the
claim that Cloisonni (looks good on my Mac) is actually a Canadian word.
Everybody knows the word cloisonn, and Canadians pronounce it cloisonn-eh?
John Slade
Manotick, ON
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 08:59:07 -0800
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Cloisonn=E9?=
Cloisonni (with an accent aigu)
For a brief Cloisonni history:
http://www.lindacrawforddesigns.com/aenamf.htm
Also, I'm checking with a cloisonni pin manufacturer that I've used
before to see if they could repair the Healey badges.
John
Alain Giguhre wrote:
> I was surprised to see my note posted with a mistake. Cloisonne (the
> accented "e" on my Mac keyboard turned into an"i" on the list) has an
> accent that points toward the end of the word. More fodder for the
> Mac/PC debates.
From BigHealey64 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 12:02:20 EST
Subject: Re: web site update - 1/4 full size drawing 100
Fantastic drawing! A 1/8 reduction fits perfectly on letter size paper.
Can't read any of the text, but its all there. Thanks for the inspiration!
Randy
64BJ8
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 12:17:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
Hi again Roger, Bob and all,
Since I raised this subject I have done a little more research and am starting
to wonder if it is all a "tempest in a teapot"
When I measure the nominal diameter of various grade 5 and grade 8 3/8" bolts
and have discovered that the diameter of these is around 0.371" and the
diameter of the original dowel bolts is around 0.373".
Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly from our collection
most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370 to 0.3715.
What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are likely to
produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the largest grade 5s
in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou.
If you take time to ensure that the bolts are as loose a possible in the dowel
position holes before everything is buttoned up I'll bet you would be within
one thou.
IMHO that is not going to cause any problems.
"Writer ducks to avoid flak and nimbly dives into his foxhole ;-)"
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob Haskell wrote:
> Mike & Roger,
>
> I bought a dowel bolt from Nocks for $15. I couldn't get a 9/16" wrench on
>it and the threads weren't any good. I haven't sent it back yet, but it did
>encourage me to see if I could do better. A friend of mine has a small
>machine shop in his garage and recently got a CNC lathe. As the original
>bolts seem to have been turned, the CNC lathe seemed the way to go. So I made
>up a drawing (dimensional sketch) of the dowel bolt and bought some 4140
>annealed hex stock. He ran some off for me and they look pretty good.
>
> I have a couple of questions though -
>
> 1) Material and Heat Treatment - I don't know the what the original
>material/heat treatment was. Is annealed 4140 good enough or is heat
>treatment required?
>
> 2) What should the dimension be for the dowel diameter? The few original
>bolts that I have measure out to about 0.374 inches. Tolerance?
>
> I haven't read Roger's article yet, I'm not even sure I've gotten the Feb
>issue yet. Will have to look for it tonight.
>
> Krazy Kiwi wrote:
> >
> > I was very interested to read Roger's article on "dowel bolts" in the Feb.
> > "Austin Healey Magazine".
> >
> > I have always insisted that these are used when we assemble a gearbox to an
> > engine. Misalignment can cause premature wear of gearbox bearings and pilot
> > bushes, not to mention causing clutch "hang up", however, as of late we
>have run
> > out completely and are unable to find a source of replacement dowel bolts.
> > I had to resort to making some a few weeks back, it only took me about 2 1/2
> > hours to make a pair out of a piece of hex stock. At that rate I figure
>they are
> > worth about $50 ea..!!!!
> >
> > What do listers think of the idea of replacing them with a pair of regular
>bolts
> > (assuming that we am unable to find a good source) after dowels have been
>used to
> > align the components and the rest of the bolts are all tightened?
> > I doubt very much that things would move with 10 tight bolts clamping it
> > together.
> >
> > Input appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Mike Salter
> >
> > www.precisionsportscar.com
>
> --
> Bob Haskell
> '60 AH BT-7 MkI
> '64 Mini Cooper S RHD
> '80 MGB LE
> bhaskell@iquest.net
> SOL Healey (URL http://www.team.net/www/healey) web apprentice
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:29:00 -0800
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Cloisonn=E9?=
Oh well, there must be some filter on the healey list that doesn't like the
accented letters in the body of the message...
Anyway, I found someone in Arizona who does Cloisonne and would like to
experiment with some samples. Does anyone have any badges that are in a
really bad state or beyond repair that they could part with? You can
contact me off list.
Thanks,
John Loftus
John Loftus wrote:
> Cloisonni (with an accent aigu)
>
> For a brief Cloisonni history:
> http://www.lindacrawforddesigns.com/aenamf.htm
>
> Also, I'm checking with a cloisonni pin manufacturer that I've used
> before to see if they could repair the Healey badges.
>
> John
>
> Alain Giguhre wrote:
>
> > I was surprised to see my note posted with a mistake. Cloisonne (the
> > accented "e" on my Mac keyboard turned into an"i" on the list) has an
> > accent that points toward the end of the word. More fodder for the
> > Mac/PC debates.
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:50:08 -0800
Subject: Custom =?iso-8859-1?Q?Cloisonn=E9?=
I have been looking for a Cloisonni badge for the top of the period valve
cover on my 100.
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/H_b%26w.JPG
I'll post a better color picture later. I can make a drawing, but I need
someone to manufacture these. OR at least fill in a blank with that
Cloisonni stuff.
Location is not an issue. 'cause I'll bet they don't allow the chemical
process in California anyway.
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
John Loftus wrote:
> Cloisonni (with an accent aigu)
>
> For a brief Cloisonni history:
> http://www.lindacrawforddesigns.com/aenamf.htm
>
> Also, I'm checking with a cloisonni pin manufacturer that I've used
> before to see if they could repair the Healey badges.
>
> John
>
> Alain Giguhre wrote:
>
> > I was surprised to see my note posted with a mistake. Cloisonne (the
> > accented "e" on my Mac keyboard turned into an"i" on the list) has an
> > accent that points toward the end of the word. More fodder for the
> > Mac/PC debates.
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:52:08 -0800
Subject: FYI Re: Enamel repair question
I sent a note to see if this enamel artist had any clue where to get the
work done. Her reply is as follows:
>I have had experience with this! I did an emblem for a guy here who was
>redoing a Porsche (I think - it was awhile back). He had three emblems so
>that if one didn't work out, another might. The problem with enamel is
>that you never know what the base metal is or what enanel was used, and
>both can make a major difference in the results.
>
>His emblem was copper that had been enameled and gold plated. I dug out
>the old enamel and reenameled it. The heat of the kiln caused the gold
>plating to burn off so that he had to have it replated. This does not hurt
>the enamel. Point being - it can be done, but it is not easy and therefore
>not cheap. He won awards with his car making the effort and cost worthwhile.
>
>Averill Shepps
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 12:10:01 -0700
Subject: Subject: Re: SB42
Gee, I think the only requirements in Idaho and Montana are that you don't
drive on the rims except if you're on a reservation.....
(heh, heh)
Jim Sailer
66BJ8
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 12:12:26 -0700
Subject: Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
Steve,
I used a cherry picker and sling under the trans. Worked great. I also
used a six pack and friend but it was not mandatory.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 15:22:11 -0600
Subject: Trailers for Austin Healeys
A few weeks ago I posted a website for the Snoozer, a light weight trailer
that could be towed by an Austin Healey. I have since found out more
information about the trailers and the site has been updated.
You can view the new infor at:
http://snoozer.bizland.com/index.html
Don
BN7
God grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The
Good Fortune to run into the ones I do, and the eyesight to tell the
difference.
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 17:07:37 EST
Subject: Re: Custom Cloisonne
Brian
I have one of the older 9 fin aluminum valve covers and can offer the following
for comment. The insignia badge is brass that is silver nickel plated not a
full chrome plating. The enameling in the lettering is not cloisone but a
product very similar to the previously mentioned "nail polish." This should
delight folks trying to restore one of these things. There are artists,
especially jewelry makers, all over that make cloisone items. Most use a kiln
or oven to melt the powdered glass. This other product used on the valve cover
badge can also be done by a local craftsman or as was suggested to me, do it
yourself. The lettering is filled in layers until it is higher than the
surrounding metal, sand and buff back the enamel/brass and have the brass
replated. The plating will only stick to the exposed brass. Hope this helps.
Aloha
Perry
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:18:26 -0500
Subject: Cloisonni.....or cloisonne?
Hmmm.... I thought it was cloisonne (with an accent over the "e").
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (with cloisonne nose badge)
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
>
>Just a helpful note to you anglo guys, you have been misspelling
>"cloisonni", the baked enamel process used for the Austin-Healey wing
>emblem. Cloison refers to the little partitions of metal created to
>keep the different colored enamels from running to each other during
>baking, in the case of a multi-coloured pin, for example. Class
>dismissed.
From "Subscribe" <subscribe at classicmgmagazine.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:15:01 -0500
Subject: Mel Torme and Healey
Does anyone on the list have copies of the 1955 magazine "Car Life"? There is
an article
in one of them about Mel Torme that Tammy would like to use in Healey Marque.
Also, we are looking for any old photos of Mel Torme in his Healey.
Thanks.
Beth
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.QUINN at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 09:43:00 +1100
Subject: Re: AH BN7
G'day Ray
I would recommend Bill Ogg of HyTone Trimming at Riverstone as he is well
versed at AH trimming. You can contact Bill on 02 9627 2086
I see that you want to have your original wiring harness recovered. I had
that
done by Vintage Wiring Harnesses back in 1983 when they were in Sydney. They
did a great job. They have since moved to Bellingen and can be contacted on
02
6655 1677.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney Australia
>>> Ray Bradbery 8/03/01 19:38:38 >>>
I am in the process of restoring a 1959 BN7 which has been imported from
the UK after sitting in a barn for 21 years.
The car has now been totally disassembled and restoration commenced.
Hoping to have it back on the road before Christmas.
I have most things under control but wonder if anyone can provide advice
on a good place (preferably in NSW, Australia) to have my seats
retrimmed, and also to have the wiring loom rebraided with cloth.
Regards
Ray Bradbery
59 BN7
51 MGTD
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:53:46 EST
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
In a message dated 03/08/2001 10:17:14 AM Mountain Standard Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
<< Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly from our
collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370 to 0.3715.
What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are likely to
produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the largest grade
5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou. >>
As I said in mly article, the difference is indeed slight. Your dimensions
sound like those I've measured. Still, maybe they (the disigning engineers)
thought those 0.002-0.003" were significant.
Roger
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 15:40:26 -0800
Subject: Re: SB42
Ray: Let me give you my perspective on the situation in California - or at
least my part of it.
It depends on where you live in the state. Some areas are subject to the
BAR90 SMOG check which looks at CO and HC. "Enhanced" areas, areas deemed
to have excessive pollution, are subject to SMOG Check II which requires the
vehicle be run on a dynamometer and is
checked for oxides of nitrogen, also. The idiosy of the whole program is
that it does not treat all vehicles and all areas the same. The San
Francisco Bay Area with 6 million plus cars is not involved in SMOG Check
II. Vacaville, with about 35,000 cars is. Look at a map that shows
Interstate 80 from San Francisco to Sacramento (less than 100 miles): SF
Bay Area - Bar90, Vacaville - SMOG Check II, Dixon - BAR90, Davis - SMOG
Check II, West Sacramento - BAR90, Sacramento - SMOG Check II. The reason
SF is not in SMOG Check II (besides politics) is due to its geographical
location. The prevailing winds blow the pollution into the Sacramento
Valley right through Vacaville Add to that the vehicles on I80 that are not
subject to the enhanced test. The SMOG gauges show SF area with 'clean' air
and Vacaville with 'dirty' air. TOTALLY UNFAIR! You can get a SMOG check
in Fairfield, nine miles west, far cheaper than in Vacaville (they have to
recoup the cost of those $60,000 dynos, you know) but you can't get your car
SMOGed in Fairfield unless they use the dyno and SMOG Check II software.
The last time I had to have the BJ8 tested BAR90, I spent hours tweaking
carbs and timing to get it to pass. When we were done, it barely ran well
enough to get it home. IMHO, most of our cars could never pass a SMOG Check
II dynomometer test.
I have some tables but they are hard to compare. Under BAR90, it was pretty
straight forward: idle HC, no more than 700 ppm; idle CO 5.5%; 2500 RPM
HC, 600 ppm, 2500 RPM CO, 4.5%. Under SMOG Check II, a formula is applied.
There are two figures on the chart that are supposedly added together and
then divided by the Vehicle Test Weight. The problem is that the figures on
the chart, when calculated, do not match the numbers that appear on a SMOG
check printout. I am going to have to do some research with CARB to find
out why. If I get any firm data, I will report it.
I hope that that answers your question but is not more than you wanted to
know.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: SB42
>
> Just how strict would the California emissions test be if older cars were
> required to pass it? Here in Colorado, all cars 1960 and newer must pass
the
> test and that's at an altitude of 5000 ft or more. They test for CO and
> hydrocarbons. The passing level depends on the age of the car with
tighter
> limits for newer cars. Somehow we get the cars to pass although some are
> easier than others. One saving grace here is that with a collector's
plate
> (25 years old or more) you have to pay for 5 years registration up front
but
> the emission test is only required when the car changes ownership.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 16:15:06 -0800
Subject: RE: SB42
Being involved in Smog Check II and owning a Healey, I have a little
insight.... I ran my BT7 on the Dyno that is part of the smog machine (my
company has 4 such smog machines with in ground dynos, huge $$$) , my
purpose was to tune the carbs for best possible power output. . Of course,
the best way to dial in the carbs is with the sniffer up the tailpipe.
SU's work best under load and my car would easily pass the late 60s standard
for Smog Check II and wouldn't even come close under TSI (two speed idle)
rules for non-enhanced areas..... Something to ponder. Dyno testing may be
better for our LBCs than Idle testing....
-----Original Message-----
From: Marge and/or Len Hartnett [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:40 PM
To: CIAG6@aol.com; Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Re: SB42
Ray: Let me give you my perspective on the situation in California - or at
least my part of it.
It depends on where you live in the state. Some areas are subject to the
BAR90 SMOG check which looks at CO and HC. "Enhanced" areas, areas deemed
to have excessive pollution, are subject to SMOG Check II which requires the
vehicle be run on a dynamometer and is
checked for oxides of nitrogen, also. The idiosy of the whole program is
that it does not treat all vehicles and all areas the same. The San
Francisco Bay Area with 6 million plus cars is not involved in SMOG Check
II. Vacaville, with about 35,000 cars is. Look at a map that shows
Interstate 80 from San Francisco to Sacramento (less than 100 miles): SF
Bay Area - Bar90, Vacaville - SMOG Check II, Dixon - BAR90, Davis - SMOG
Check II, West Sacramento - BAR90, Sacramento - SMOG Check II. The reason
SF is not in SMOG Check II (besides politics) is due to its geographical
location. The prevailing winds blow the pollution into the Sacramento
Valley right through Vacaville Add to that the vehicles on I80 that are not
subject to the enhanced test. The SMOG gauges show SF area with 'clean' air
and Vacaville with 'dirty' air. TOTALLY UNFAIR! You can get a SMOG check
in Fairfield, nine miles west, far cheaper than in Vacaville (they have to
recoup the cost of those $60,000 dynos, you know) but you can't get your car
SMOGed in Fairfield unless they use the dyno and SMOG Check II software.
The last time I had to have the BJ8 tested BAR90, I spent hours tweaking
carbs and timing to get it to pass. When we were done, it barely ran well
enough to get it home. IMHO, most of our cars could never pass a SMOG Check
II dynomometer test.
I have some tables but they are hard to compare. Under BAR90, it was pretty
straight forward: idle HC, no more than 700 ppm; idle CO 5.5%; 2500 RPM
HC, 600 ppm, 2500 RPM CO, 4.5%. Under SMOG Check II, a formula is applied.
There are two figures on the chart that are supposedly added together and
then divided by the Vehicle Test Weight. The problem is that the figures on
the chart, when calculated, do not match the numbers that appear on a SMOG
check printout. I am going to have to do some research with CARB to find
out why. If I get any firm data, I will report it.
I hope that that answers your question but is not more than you wanted to
know.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <CIAG6@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: SB42
>
> Just how strict would the California emissions test be if older cars were
> required to pass it? Here in Colorado, all cars 1960 and newer must pass
the
> test and that's at an altitude of 5000 ft or more. They test for CO and
> hydrocarbons. The passing level depends on the age of the car with
tighter
> limits for newer cars. Somehow we get the cars to pass although some are
> easier than others. One saving grace here is that with a collector's
plate
> (25 years old or more) you have to pay for 5 years registration up front
but
> the emission test is only required when the car changes ownership.
>
> Ray G
> Colorado
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 19:48:06 EST
Subject: Re: Cloisonni.....or cloisonne? (neither)
Well guys/girls,
The real seems to be this...
The technique is called Cloisonn and items made that way are called cloisonne
(accent over the "e")
On our Badges the enamelling is not really cloisonn but this: champleve
ENCYCLOPFDIA BRITANNICA
cloisonn
in the decorative arts, an enameling technique or any product of that
technique, which consists of soldering to a metal
surface delicate metal strips bent to the outline of a design and filling
the resulting cellular spaces, called cloisons
(French: "partitions," or "compartments"), with vitreous enamel paste. The
object then is fired, ground smooth, and
polished. Sometimes metal wire is used in place of the usual gold, brass,
silver, or copper strips.
Enamelling
There are two methods of applying enamel to metal: champlevi, in which
hollows made in the metal are filled with
enamel; and cloisonni, in which strips of metal are applied to the metal
surface, forming cells, which are then filled
with enamel.
With that...I seem to remember a home do it yourself kit that supplied powder
that you could cook at home to repair these items...
Rick
San Diego
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 20:51:57 EST
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Transmission RnR Question
Another neat trick for the six cylinder Healeys is:
With the rear supports loose jack up the engine and gearbox until you can
place a short 2 x 4 between the head and the firewall. This will hold the
engine in the elevated position while you remove and replace the gearbox.
Cheers, Bill
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:03:36 -0500
Subject: Engine technical info needed
Hello listers;
I was at the engine rebuilders today who are overhauling my BJ7 engine
and came home with a couple of technical questions that I need some help
with.
1) does anyone know the dimension of the bore of the large end of the
connecting rods? It is necessary to check for ovality and if necessary
re-size but I was unable to find a factory spec on this.
2) the factory manual says that after installing new camshaft bearings it
is necessary to line ream them. Is this still necessary or are new bearings
today pre-sized?
Thanks for the help...Russ Bamsey
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 22:33:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine technical info needed
Russ, it is vital that the cam bearings be reamed after installation. Not
only does this size them to the camshaft, but it ensures that they are in
line. Make extra sure that the oil holes are in line also. The bearings
should be a press fit in the block, and the pressure put on them to keep
them in place, will reduce the i/d by enough to make the camshaft bind
You don't need the dimension of the big end to check for ovality, just
measure it in several places and compare the measurements that you get
Hope this helps, cheers........Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: Healeys@autoxteam.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:03 PM
Subject: Engine technical info needed
>
> Hello listers;
> I was at the engine rebuilders today who are overhauling my BJ7
engine
> and came home with a couple of technical questions that I need some help
> with.
> 1) does anyone know the dimension of the bore of the large end of the
> connecting rods? It is necessary to check for ovality and if necessary
> re-size but I was unable to find a factory spec on this.
> 2) the factory manual says that after installing new camshaft bearings
it
> is necessary to line ream them. Is this still necessary or are new
bearings
> today pre-sized?
> Thanks for the help...Russ Bamsey
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 23:13:50 -0500
Subject: Matchbox Models
I stopped into the local Toys R Us today and picked up another 7 Healey Hot
Wheels. They have new packaging and are now identified as Collector No. 092.
(In small type on the side it reads No. 32/36 which is the original number --
number 32 out of 36 in the series)
The point is that these are easily available outside of E-Bay for 99 cents.
Last time I looked on e-Bay they were around $5.00.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 17:49:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: SB42 California Interest Only
I got my info from Auto Restorer magazine, who cited the Specialty Equipment
Market
Association (SEMA).
There's too much smoke here to not suspect a fire.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> In a message dated 3/7/01 3:17:09 AM, bsteele2@pacbell.net writes:
>
> <<
> Dear Bruce:
>
> Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
>
> Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
> issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
> the
> stipulations it holds. >>
>
> It will be interesting to see if we get similar responses from other
> legislators to the same effect. If so, I would be ready to write a strong
> letter to the "Association of California Car Clubs" about the credibility of
> their lobbyist. Their latest newsletter made it seem as if the roll-back was
> likely to go into effect within days.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Publisher, British Car Magazine
> Los Altos, CA
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 21:43:20 -0800
Subject: Re: SB42
There are two points of interest in this exchange (see below):
1) note that Assemblywoman Daucher (actually, her aide) is entirely
noncommittal about her
position on this matter; i.e. she may be for or against the repeal of SB
42, but of course she'll
sit on the fence as long as she can and,
2) the "several letters the Assemblywoman has received" MAY have had more
impact than
hundreds, maybe thousands of letters that might be received after such a
legislative
proposition actually hits the floor. This lets the legislators know there
is a passionate,
committed and organized (well, two out of three ain't bad :) minority
that will respond,
somehow, to any such legislation.
Eternal vigilence.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
>
> Dear Bruce:
>
> Thank you for writing to the District Office in regards to SB42.
>
> Yours is one of several letters the Assemblywoman has received on this
> issue. To date, there is nothing on the floor about repealing SB42 or
> the
> stipulations it holds.
>
> Other owners of classic cars have been misinformed about CARB's
> intentions.
> The basis of this misinformation is from a July 1999 report CARB
> turned out
> with suggestions for lowering the level of smog in California. One
> suggestion was to put a cap on the rolling smog elimination for older
> cars,
> 1974 and older. This would not go into effect until 2004 and would
> not
> change the status of cars older then 1974.
>
> However, this was only a suggestion in a report. It has not been
> brought
> forward to the Assembly and according to representatives at CARB,
> there are
> no plans for it to. I put in calls to CARB on a regular basis, so they
> are
> quite aware that if this changes, I am to be made aware of it.
>
> Thank you for taking the time to write and if I can be of any
> assistance,
> please call the District Office at (714) 525-0175.
>
> LaDonna Nicholson
> Senior Assistant
> Assemblywoman Lynn Daucher
> 72nd District.
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:16:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Mel Torme and Healey
Hi Beth,
It's already been done in the Chatter a number of years ago. Sorry I don't
have the issue handy to tell you which one. The article was written by Mel
about his picking up the new Hundred and driving it across much of the
northern and midwestern states. A great article, good photos too, but
nothing new there.
Rich Chrysler
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 22:34:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Matchbox Models
Last Saturday, KMart, Concord, CA. 75 cents plus tax. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims@email.msn.com>
To: "Healey E-mail list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:13 PM
Subject: Matchbox Models
>
> I stopped into the local Toys R Us today and picked up another 7 Healey
Hot
> Wheels. They have new packaging and are now identified as Collector No.
092.
> (In small type on the side it reads No. 32/36 which is the original
number --
> number 32 out of 36 in the series)
>
> The point is that these are easily available outside of E-Bay for 99
cents.
> Last time I looked on e-Bay they were around $5.00.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 00:23:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Cloisonni.....or cloisonne?
Apparently some of the listers were experiencing a "MAC" attack.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 3:18 PM
Subject: Cloisonni.....or cloisonne?
>
> Hmmm.... I thought it was cloisonne (with an accent over the "e").
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666 (with cloisonne nose badge)
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alain Giguhre <agig@sympatico.ca>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey Badges for 3000
>
>
> >
> >Just a helpful note to you anglo guys, you have been misspelling
> >"cloisonni", the baked enamel process used for the Austin-Healey wing
> >emblem. Cloison refers to the little partitions of metal created to
> >keep the different colored enamels from running to each other during
> >baking, in the case of a multi-coloured pin, for example. Class
> >dismissed.
From David Neale <dneale at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 07:49:23 -0800
Subject: Re: UnionJack, San Martin, California
Has anyone had any experience with this small business south of San Jose,
British Auto Restoration run by John LoCascio and his son Marcello?
David Neale
BN7
BJ8.
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:42:20 EST
Subject: Healey Art
While cruisn' the net I found a site that has two posters with Big Healeys in
them. The web site is: www.arteauto.com.
Click on Alain Levesque. How do you like em'?
Richard
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 15:51:10 -0800
Subject: Brake Shake - new developments
Some of you will remember my problem of a slight vibration while stopping my 55
BN1. To make this problem more convoluted, I re-lined my brake shoes with a new
modern stickier material AND I have a one year old set of Al-fin brake drums
on the front and a brand new set on the rear.
I finally got all the shoes aligned using that little angle bolt. This is no
small task. And meant pulling the wheels and drums off many, many times. Here's
a hint for that, draw a line across the shoe material with a wax pencil, drive
around the block and re-check where it's wiped off.
OK now to the actual problem:
It is not the new rear brake drums. Put my old ones back on and no effect.
Unfortunately this leaves the fronts. Using the same draw a line method
mentioned above but with a permanent marker. I discovered that the front Al-fin
drums are not even! There are two, 2-inch wide, spots on opposite sides of each
other being rubbed less. So it appears my Al-fins my have become oval!!!
This is a classic problem with period drums but I thought they had it licked in
the modern SC Parts version. The strange part is that I only have 1600 mile on
these drums , and I did not notice this problem before I changed to the new
shoes??? I dug out my old steel drums but they were never on the car since the
restoration so they'll need some clean up to verify that this is the problem.
So the question now is: Can a brake shop grind/cut theses Al-fin drums back to
round?
OR how difficult is it to change a BN1 to front disk brakes?
Opinions?
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:05:09 -0800
Subject: Brake Servo Seal
Does anyone know of a source for the piston seal for the Girling brake servos?
Is it the
same as the seal on the master cylinder, or does it otherwise cross-reference
any common
parts?
This is the small rubber seal on the piston in the cylinder, not the big seal
on the vacuum
diaphragm. This is for a BJ8.
I'd rather not buy a complete rebuild kit for just the one seal.
Thanks,
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 21:11:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red interior
color
scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone have a
JPEG
or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about uding
it,
but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies greatly
appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note different
spellings)
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 05:22:46 -0500
Subject: Re: White & Black with Red Interior!
John:
Although it isn't actually a photograph, you can get a reasonable idea of
appearance of the color combination at Roger Los' Big Healey site:
http://www.austinhealey.com/big.html
John Cope
62 BT7 in Waycross, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:11 AM
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
>
> Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red
interior color
> scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone
have a JPEG
> or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about
uding it,
> but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies
greatly
> appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note
different spellings)
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 16:53:55 -0800
Subject: Tech Session this Saturday
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
Event AlertSaturday March 10
Golden Gate Austin Healey Club president David Nock, will host an open
technical session Saturday March 10 at the home of Sandi Baker in Walnut
Creek. David is president of British Car Specialists in Stockton.
Subjects: getting your Healey in shape for the 2001 season, tips on
tuning and roadside repairs. Starting time is 10AM.
Directions: Take I-680 to Livorna Avenue exit (south of Walnut Creek)
west (under the freeway) to Danville Blvd. Go right approximately =
mile to Hillgrade. Left up the hill to the point where the road swings
right and becomes Crest. Go left to the first stop sign (Tice Valley
Road). Go Left. Approximately 100 yards past the first stop sign take a
left onto Castle Hill Ranch Road. Bear right at the first intersection
then another right at the oak tree in the middle of the road onto Saddle
Road. Go all the way up to the end and swing left up a short grade.
Thats Sandis driveway. Sandis is at the top. Sandi is at
925-946-1716. Call Dave at 209-824-1562 if you plan to attend.
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:49:57 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Further to the notes below, I'll describe how I do it. I leave the car on
it's wheels and support the engine under the pan and rear mounting plate
with a good piece of plywood to spread the load, making sure not to have the
wood bearing on the gearbox bell housing. Then I undo all the bell housing
bolts using a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension, to reach all the bolts and
nuts. A box wrench slipped onto the forward side of things will stop the
bolt from spinning around while the nut and lockwasher is being removed. The
slave cylinder on the 6 cylinder cars is removed by undoing the two bolts,
and swinging the cylinder up out of harm's way. This will leave the
hydraulics undisturbed.
The stay rod link pin, (the one that points from right to left) under the
gearbox is removed by taking off the nut and lockwasher and carefully prying
the flanged head out of the rubber bushing. Proceed to undo all the rear
gearbox mounting bolts as Derek mentions, not forgetting the two underneath.
There's room to fit your arm along side the gearbox to reach these with a
short extension, coming straight up under the cross member. Undo the prop
shaft flange and compress the shaft as much as possible on it's splines.
Now for the actual removal.
I suspend a chain falls right down behing the windscreen, cented in the car,
draping rags over the windscreen frame to protect accidentally touching it
with the chain. A loop of rope is slung around the adapter plate at the back
of the gearbox / front of the overdrive. This is pretty much the balance
point front to back for the whole assembly. Hook the chain hook onto the
rope loop and gently take up the slack until the back of the unit begins to
lift a bit. Then you can simply pull the whole unnit back, clearing the prop
shaft at the back and the first motion shaft will clear out of the clutch
splines at the front. Now you can manoever the assembly back and spin it to
lie sideways across the floor. Release the hook from the rope, and get a
second person to help you lift the unit out of the passenger's side of the
car.
Whew, it took longer to describe it than the actual lift and removal takes.
Replacement is the reversal of removal, though while suspended and lined up
to enter the first motion shaft into the clutch splines, it's easier to slip
the gearbox into 4th gear so you can rotate the shaft to find the splines.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: D Job <djob@home.com>
To: <JXLmail@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> Jim.
>
> Ive just done this, literally just finished it yesterday. Im not an
> experienced mechanic and this was my first attempt. I took my time and
> it worked.
>
> I also used two jacks but in addition I placed some wood blocks under
> the bell housing so that when it comes off the spline it has somewhere
> to rest. It gets a bit wobbly with just the one jack under the
> transmission. Dont forget to detach all the auxillary bits and pieces.
>
> I left the rear support bracket attached to the gearbox and unscrewed it
> from the frame. Leave the tie rod fastened to the frame and just detach
> the single bolt (the pin hinge). Dont forget there are also two bolts
> hidden under the frame which bolt upwards to the gearbox cover.
>
> When everythings undone use the jacks to raise the gearbox about an inch
> or so that it can clear the frame when you pull it back.It might not
> come first time but just keep working at it and eventually it will pull
> back. Make sure it doesnt get snagged on the the universal joint. It
> will help if someone assits you with the jacks while you're fiddling
> with the box. You'll need someone to help lift it out anyway (via
> passenger door). Im assuming you've removed the seats.
>
> Note down exactly which bolts come out of which holes in the
> bellhousing as they are not all the same. In fact keep notes on
> everything.
>
> Good luck (I hope I can put mine back in!!!!)
>
> cheers
> Derek 58 BN4 MM
>
>
>
>
>
> JXLmail@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> > transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> > experience?
> >
> > I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> > Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> > Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> > Draining the fluid
> > start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
> >
> > I am thinking about
> > 1. replacing the clutch
> > How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> > 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> > 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> > joints
> >
> > Anything else I missed?
> >
> > Jim L.
> > 56 BN2
> > Bowie, MD
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 09:15:25 EST
Subject: Re: Mel Torme and Healey
In a message dated 03/08/2001 11:32:03 PM Mountain Standard Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<<
Hi Beth,
It's already been done in the Chatter a number of years ago. Sorry I don't
have the issue handy to tell you which one. The article was written by Mel
about his picking up the new Hundred and driving it across much of the
northern and midwestern states. A great article, good photos too, but
nothing new there.
Rich Chrysler >>
Not Chatter, but Austin Healey Marque. Nov or Dec '99 with a follow-up
article by me in the Feb 2000 issue.
Roger
From i.e.inc at netwide.net (Richard Smith)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 09:48:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Matchbox Models
We visited the grand opening of a new KMart. We found 25 Healey Hot Wheels
for 75 cents each.
----- Original Message -----
From: J_L_Sims
To: Healey E-mail list
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:13 PM
Subject: Matchbox Models
I stopped into the local Toys R Us today and picked up another 7 Healey Hot
Wheels. They have new packaging and are now identified as Collector No.
092.
(In small type on the side it reads No. 32/36 which is the original number
--
number 32 out of 36 in the series)
The point is that these are easily available outside of E-Bay for 99 cents.
Last time I looked on e-Bay they were around $5.00.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:11:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Mel Torme and Healey
Beth,
I beleive there was a reprint a few months back, maybe even a year ago in
the Austin Healey Magazine. If I recall correctly it had several photos of
Mel and some really interesting personal driving stories about Mel and his
car.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
>From: "Subscribe" <subscribe@classicmgmagazine.com>
>Reply-To: "Subscribe" <subscribe@classicmgmagazine.com>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Mel Torme and Healey
>Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:15:01 -0500
>
>Does anyone on the list have copies of the 1955 magazine "Car Life"? There
>is an article
>in one of them about Mel Torme that Tammy would like to use in Healey
>Marque.
>
>Also, we are looking for any old photos of Mel Torme in his Healey.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Beth
_________________________________________________________________
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:25:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Looking for someone near Monrovia
I wonder if there are any listers near Monrovia (the Monrovia in southern
California, not west Africa) who would be willing to go inspect a Jensen
Healey for sale there? Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 10:39:08 EST
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
In a message dated 3/9/2001 02:30:21 Central Standard Time, john4@home.com
writes:
<< Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
Event AlertSaturday March 10
>>
John,
Sure would like to make the tech session Saturday. Only one problem, North
Texas AHC has a tech session the same day and I have to go and eat my share
of the donuts.
You guys have a good time.
See ya'll soon.
Regards,
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:07:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
See you there. Alas, without the Healey which is otherwise disposed...
Coop
----- Original Message -----
From: John Trifari <john4@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: Tech Session this Saturday
>
> Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
>
> Event AlertSaturday March 10
>
>
> Golden Gate Austin Healey Club president David Nock, will host an open
> technical session Saturday March 10 at the home of Sandi Baker in Walnut
> Creek. David is president of British Car Specialists in Stockton.
>
> Subjects: getting your Healey in shape for the 2001 season, tips on
> tuning and roadside repairs. Starting time is 10AM.
>
> Directions: Take I-680 to Livorna Avenue exit (south of Walnut Creek)
> west (under the freeway) to Danville Blvd. Go right approximately =
> mile to Hillgrade. Left up the hill to the point where the road swings
> right and becomes Crest. Go left to the first stop sign (Tice Valley
> Road). Go Left. Approximately 100 yards past the first stop sign take a
> left onto Castle Hill Ranch Road. Bear right at the first intersection
> then another right at the oak tree in the middle of the road onto Saddle
> Road. Go all the way up to the end and swing left up a short grade.
> Thats Sandis driveway. Sandis is at the top. Sandi is at
> 925-946-1716. Call Dave at 209-824-1562 if you plan to attend.
From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:21:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine technical info needed
You sure you have the right engine rebuilder?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@gate-way.net>
To: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
Cc: "HEALEY LIST" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: Engine technical info needed
>
> Russ, it is vital that the cam bearings be reamed after installation. Not
> only does this size them to the camshaft, but it ensures that they are in
> line. Make extra sure that the oil holes are in line also. The bearings
> should be a press fit in the block, and the pressure put on them to keep
> them in place, will reduce the i/d by enough to make the camshaft bind
> You don't need the dimension of the big end to check for ovality, just
> measure it in several places and compare the measurements that you get
> Hope this helps, cheers........Bob
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Russ & Natalie Bamsey <ia549@worldchat.com>
> To: Healeys@autoxteam.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:03 PM
> Subject: Engine technical info needed
>
>
> >
> > Hello listers;
> > I was at the engine rebuilders today who are overhauling my BJ7
> engine
> > and came home with a couple of technical questions that I need some help
> > with.
> > 1) does anyone know the dimension of the bore of the large end of
the
> > connecting rods? It is necessary to check for ovality and if necessary
> > re-size but I was unable to find a factory spec on this.
> > 2) the factory manual says that after installing new camshaft
bearings
> it
> > is necessary to line ream them. Is this still necessary or are new
> bearings
> > today pre-sized?
> > Thanks for the help...Russ Bamsey
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:30:56 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for someone near Monrovia
Reid
Try contacting a guy named "Hema" @ 626-286-9112. He's in San Gabriel which
is kind of in the local area.
I'm in Altadena myself about 10 to 15 minutes from Monrovia, but couldn't
really give you more than a "cosmetic" assessment of the Jensen.
At any rate, the following are a list of local mechanics, parts suppliers and
repair shops in the area that may be of some use to you or others (when in
the L.A. area).
Paul Grey - Highland Park/Eagle Rock (323) 254-1736
Malcolm Buckridge - Arcadia/Santa Anita (626) 309-2923
Joseph Javadi - Pasadena (626) 793-4697
Jim Rickman - Pasadena (626) 793-5397
Peter - Marina Del Rey (310) 399-8313
Judah - Altadena (626) 797-3562
Doug's British (626) 793-2494 (The hip place to go for parts & info) -
Pasadena
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 12:08:33 EST
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and ... deja vu?
In a message dated 3/9/01 12:31:10 AM, rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<< Further to the notes below, I'll describe how I do it. >>
Wasn't this entire exchange on the list a week ago? Did Autox stutter and
spit out some old files?
Cheers
Gar
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:46:57 -0800
Subject: Old Articles
A few weeks back, I ran across the following magazines in an old file
cabinet.
Car and Driver - April, 1961 Healey Sprite Road test
Auto Age - April, 1953 Nash-Healey Road test
Auto Age - April, 1953 Austin A40, Sommerset and Sports model
If anyone is interested in copies, contact me off the list.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 14:15:25 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and ... deja vu?
Thanks for the question, Gary. I was afraid some thing was wrong
here.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 09, 2001 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and ... deja vu?
>
>In a message dated 3/9/01 12:31:10 AM, rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca
writes:
>
><< Further to the notes below, I'll describe how I do it. >>
>
>Wasn't this entire exchange on the list a week ago? Did Autox
stutter and
>spit out some old files?
>Cheers
>Gar
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:52:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine technical info needed
Bob
>
>Russ, it is vital that the cam bearings be reamed after installation. Not
>only does this size them to the camshaft, but it ensures that they are in
>line. Make extra sure that the oil holes are in line also.
I realise that this enquiry is about a BJ7, but if anybody with a 100 is
taking note; beware. The front camshaft bearing should be deliberately
positioned so that the hole in the bearing does not line up centrally
with the upper hole in the block. The overlap should reduce the area to
less than half. This was an official modification on large four cylinder
Austin engines to reduce the amount of oil reaching the top of the
engine. I could provide more details off line if required.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:17:12 -0000
Subject: Horn wiring. HD8 choke return springs.
In order to squeeze in an air filter which I have adapted in
order
to get filters onto my 3 HD6s in my MkII BT7 I shall have to move
the
LHS horn. There is room for it on the RHS. Will hooking up two
horns burn out the wiring? I saw a BJ8 with two horns on the RHS
and the wiring did not LOOK any bigger.
Incidentally, I looked closely at the choke linkage on this BJ8..
each choke linkage had a spring attached to the bodywork below..
per a thread a while back.
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon. EX5 4NN.
UK.
Tel: 01392-882248.
email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 14:31:45 EST
Subject: Re: Matchbox Models
I found 6 at my local K mart this morning (75 cents each)
Larryrph@aol.com
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 12:39:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
Don:
will you spend the day working on your texas cooler sales program? :)
Ron Rader
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/9/2001 02:30:21 Central Standard Time, john4@home.com
> writes:
>
> << Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
>
> Event AlertSaturday March 10
> >>
> John,
> Sure would like to make the tech session Saturday. Only one problem, North
> Texas AHC has a tech session the same day and I have to go and eat my share
> of the donuts.
>
> You guys have a good time.
>
> See ya'll soon.
> Regards,
> Don Lenschow
> NTAHC
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:29:34 -0800
Subject: Re: web site update
Hello Again
Yes I'm now replying to my own posts. Ed Driver has found that the image of
the healey 100 that I have added to my site can be printed on normal A4/
letter paper as follows. Download the file using the right mouse button
"save image as" method then open the file in windows "Imaging" in
start/programs/ accessories/ when printing choose fit to page and bingo.
Thanks Ed
Larry
Larry Varley wrote:
> Hello All
> I have just made an interesting addition to my web site, a quarter full
> size (yes you read it right) drawing of the Healey 100. Four views are
> depicted on the drawing which is 5'8" long by 2'10" high. That is 1735mm
> by 864mm. While it will not reproduce on a normal A4 printer it is worth
> the effort of having it printed by a commercial Plan Printer or
> Photocopying business, so I suggest copying it to disc and having it
> done as it will make great garage wall paper. I would appreciate some
> feedback from those that do, as I am interested to learn if you can get
> this done at various locations around the globe. The file is in G4
> compressed tif format with a file size of 300KB so it will fit on a
> standard floppy. It is located with Healey and Austin Drawings on the
> site.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 16:45:36 EST
Subject: Re: Matchbox Models
In a message dated 3/9/2001 13:34:31 Central Standard Time, LarryRPH@aol.com
writes:
<< I found 6 at my local K mart this morning (75 cents each) >>
Does this mean if you purchase 28,000 you will have a $21,000 Healey? (-:
Don the donut eater
From "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1 at bp.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 16:51:17 -0600
Subject: BN1, BN2, BN4 Seat backs available.
Listners
I have a 1958 100-6 in mid-restoration and have ended up with 5 seat backs
all from the earlier cars. One came with the car, I got hold of two more
before I realised there was a size difference and have since received two
more from a different source.
Anyone out there in need of original seat backs contact me off list. If you
have late model 100-6/3000 seat backs to trade even better!
Two are de-rusted, painted and come with new foams
One is de-rusted only
Two are a pair still with tatty old leather attached.
Also does anyone have a spare side shift gear stick. The small ball joint
on the bottom end of mine is very worn and might generate a lot of filings
in gearbox if I use it, Let me know.
Philip
BN6
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 18:41:42 EST
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
In a message dated 3/9/2001 14:47:02 Central Standard Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< will you spend the day working on your texas cooler sales program? :)
Ron Rader
>>
Ron,
After we eat donuts, a focus group is formed and we have this chant about
summer is coming and every Big Healey needs a Texas Kooler.
Serious......If anyone with an interest in Healeys is in the Dallas area the
second Saturday of any month you are more than welcome to come by and eat
your share of donuts. Tech session site is about 10 minutes from DFW airport.
If you happen to come to Dallas on business, call and we may be able to
arrange to get together with some of our club members. We don't need much of
a reason to have a party here in North Texas.
Ya'll come down, ya hear.
Don
NTAHC
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:41:21 EST
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
What kind of donuts? Glazed or creme filled?
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 17:00:18 -0800
Subject: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
You know those cool helmets you see the vintage racers wearing in all the old
photo's. The plastic half-helmet with the leather ear flaps. Does anybody
reproduce those new?
Brian
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 20:04:47 EST
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Hi Brian,
They make ski helmuts like that now, check out your local Ski or Snowboard
shop...
Richard
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:40:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Tech Session this Saturday
<<What kind of donuts? Glazed or creme filled?>>
In Don's case, Jim :
B E E R filled!!
<G>
Ed
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 18:19:53 -0800
Subject: AHCSD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition - March 2001
The March issue of the Austin-Healey Club of San Diego's newsletter's
"Electronic Edition" is now on-line at <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/>.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
Vice President, Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
and Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh/>
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 21:37:46 EST
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Try you local Harley shop, quite a few of the Bikers still wear those style
helmets.
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 21:35:54 -0700
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
I've seen them advertised in those big British Car Magaszines from the
UK...............
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyAuto@aol.com>
To: <brianmix@home.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> They make ski helmuts like that now, check out your local Ski or Snowboard
> shop...
>
> Richard
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 19:50:28 -0500
Subject: Re: White & Black with Red Interior!
Hi, John -
This may not be helpful, but perhaps is interesting to a few of you:
Of the 3,749 cars now included in the BJ8 Registry, only the following are
recorded as having the white/black paint scheme:
HBJ8L/26002 (orig) Ivory White; (now) white/black with red interior -
Holland
HBJ8/25736 (orig) Ivory White/black with black leather - England
HBJ8L/28698 (orig) Ivory White/black (now) BRG with black interior -
Holland
HBJ8L/29057 (orig) white/black with red leather (now) BRG/white with
black - Illinois
HBJ8L/38687 (orig) Ivory White (now) white/black with black interior -
Holland
So, it appears that the white/black paint scheme is not exactly common.
The only car recorded as having white/black with red interior is in Holland
and unfortunately I do not have the e-mail address of the owner. The only
one originally white/black with red interior no longer is so.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (was BRG, now is yellow/black)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: John Schaible <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:28 AM
Subject: White & Black with Red Interior!
>
>Has anyone ever actually seen the white car with black cove and red
interior color
>scheme that the factory offerd for BJ8's? Even better yet does anyone have
a JPEG
>or HTML pix they could send me of this color combo? I'm thinking about
uding it,
>but wiould like to see a picture in advance if possible. All replies
greatly
>appreciated. Jack jschaible@avaya.com OR jaschaible @yahoo.com (note
different spellings)
>Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:03:52 -0500
Subject: Capital Classic June 15-17
The Capital Area Club has been finalizing the details for this year's
Capital Classic meet on June 15-17 in Frederick, Maryland. We are
happy to invite all Healey enthusiasts to help us celebrate the
marque. I hope that some of you to the North and South will join us.
And let's not forget our friends to the West either. Our chairman,
Howard Gilson is working hard to create a first rate event. Frederick
is just 45 minutes north of Washington, DC and is surrounded by nice
country roads. It is also close the Antietam Civil war battle site.
As you know, when it comes to Healeys, the more the merrier so Please
join us.
For more information, please visit our Web site,
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc,
where you will find registration and hotel information and a
tentative schedule. For more information, contact Howard Gilson
mailto:hgilson@bigplanet.com or Allen Feldman
mailto:Allen.Feldman@faa.gov.
I'll look forward to seeing you there!
Herman
--
Lucas trained Webmaster
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://lightning.prohosting.com/~caahc
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:43:36 EST
Subject: Springthing 2001
Share the spirit of the Healey Marque at Springthing 2001 to be held May 17,
18 & 19 in Lexington Kentucky. See old Healey friends and meet new ones! This
years event welcomes a special guest, Gerry Coker, designer of the Austin
Healey 100.
Springthing is a three day celebration of spring hosted by the Bluegrass
Austin Healey Club. This years event will be held in one of the most
picturesque locations amid the center of Thoroughbred Horse Racing farms and
facilities. Events include a Gymkhana, Rally, Car Show, Funkhana, BBQ,
Banquet and more including a Healey Boat Show.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and
registration form are available on our web site at http://bluegrassclub.com
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 12:59:31 +0000
Subject: Searching for A-H 100 - Chassis #161030
A previous owner here in the UK is keen to know the whereabouts of a 100
that he owned in the early 1980s. Our last record shows that the last
owner in the UK was Roger Byford but he tells me that he sold the car to
an American serviceman then based at Lakenheath around 1989. This
gentleman was apparently about to go back to the States and wanted to
take a 100 with him (wise man).
In the UK the car was registered SOF 347. It had been green at one time
and may still have been this colour when it left the UK.
If this car still exists we would be very pleased to hear from the
present owner; in confidence if so desired.
The previous owners has photographs on offer (free) going back to 1973
should the current owner be interested.
Please reply to me if you can help and I will forward the response.
All the best
--
John Harper
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 12:35:27 -0500
Subject: Part Needed
Need the right door top chrome piece for BJ8. Must be ready to use. Don't
want to have to chrome or fix anything. Hopefully someone has one just
waiting for me. The front clip on mine has broken off.
Thanks
Tom
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:45:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Engine technical info needed
Hi,
as far as I know the rods big ends should be 53,6956-53,7083 mm
(converted from imperial measurements), sorry as a German just the
metric sizes available.
Hope that helps
Regards
Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549@worldchat.com>
To: "Healeys@autoxteam.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 3:03 AM
Subject: Engine technical info needed
>
> Hello listers;
> I was at the engine rebuilders today who are overhauling my
BJ7 engine
> and came home with a couple of technical questions that I need some
help
> with.
> 1) does anyone know the dimension of the bore of the large end
of the
> connecting rods? It is necessary to check for ovality and if
necessary
> re-size but I was unable to find a factory spec on this.
> 2) the factory manual says that after installing new camshaft
bearings it
> is necessary to line ream them. Is this still necessary or are new
bearings
> today pre-sized?
> Thanks for the help...Russ Bamsey
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:50:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
Hi all,
as being with my motorbuilder yesterday on the same topic he suggested
to put two studs with the exact diameter instead of the dowel bolts
(No concours, I know!) but he meant the alignment of the bellhousing
would be easier when refitting the gearbox. Sounds reasonable to me.
Any comments ?
Regards
Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <magicare@home.com>; <bhaskell@iquest.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Rmoment@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
> In a message dated 03/08/2001 10:17:14 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> magicare@home.com writes:
>
> << Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly from
our
> collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370 to
0.3715.
> What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are
likely to
> produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the
largest grade
> 5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou. >>
>
> As I said in mly article, the difference is indeed slight. Your
dimensions
> sound like those I've measured. Still, maybe they (the disigning
engineers)
> thought those 0.002-0.003" were significant.
>
> Roger
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 13:47:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
This is exactly what I intend to do. Installing a trans without studs
is diffucult. After the trans is bolted up, then I will replace the
studs with one dowel bolt (which I have) and one grade 5 or 8 bolt.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
> Hi all,
>
> as being with my motorbuilder yesterday on the same topic he
suggested
> to put two studs with the exact diameter instead of the dowel bolts
> (No concours, I know!) but he meant the alignment of the bellhousing
> would be easier when refitting the gearbox. Sounds reasonable to me.
>
> Any comments ?
>
> Regards
>
> Martin
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> To: <magicare@home.com>; <bhaskell@iquest.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 03/08/2001 10:17:14 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> > magicare@home.com writes:
> >
> > << Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly
from
> our
> > collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370
to
> 0.3715.
> > What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are
> likely to
> > produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the
> largest grade
> > 5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou. >>
> >
> > As I said in mly article, the difference is indeed slight. Your
> dimensions
> > sound like those I've measured. Still, maybe they (the disigning
> engineers)
> > thought those 0.002-0.003" were significant.
> >
> > Roger
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 16:11:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake Shake - Fixed!
Some of you will remember my problem of a slight vibration while stopping my 55
BN1.
It was definitely warped front Alfins. I had them turned today and the problem
is gone.
There's probably a set of front disks in my future.
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 17:12:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
I measured the diameter of the dowel bolt that I have (.374") using a
digital caliper and compared it to other 3/8-24 bolts and found there
to be only .001 (.373) difference between them.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>; <Rmoment@aol.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
> This is exactly what I intend to do. Installing a trans without
studs
> is diffucult. After the trans is bolted up, then I will replace the
> studs with one dowel bolt (which I have) and one grade 5 or 8 bolt.
> Mark Fawcett
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> To: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 10:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > as being with my motorbuilder yesterday on the same topic he
> suggested
> > to put two studs with the exact diameter instead of the dowel
bolts
> > (No concours, I know!) but he meant the alignment of the
bellhousing
> > would be easier when refitting the gearbox. Sounds reasonable to
me.
> >
> > Any comments ?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Martin
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> > To: <magicare@home.com>; <bhaskell@iquest.net>;
> > <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Cc: <Rmoment@aol.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
> >
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 03/08/2001 10:17:14 AM Mountain Standard
Time,
> > > magicare@home.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly
> from
> > our
> > > collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently
0.370
> to
> > 0.3715.
> > > What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are
> > likely to
> > > produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the
> > largest grade
> > > 5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou. >>
> > >
> > > As I said in mly article, the difference is indeed slight. Your
> > dimensions
> > > sound like those I've measured. Still, maybe they (the
disigning
> > engineers)
> > > thought those 0.002-0.003" were significant.
> > >
> > > Roger
From "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 21:42:05 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 Radio
Does anybody know of anyone that can repair a 1965 BJ8 radio.
At times it works then goes out.
Any thoughts.
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
1965 BJ6
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 21:48:20 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 Radio
Sounds like it might be an easy fix for an electronics repair shop. From the
description of the problem it's probably an bad connection or cracked solder
joint.
If you are handy and comfortable with it you could take it out, set it up on
a bench, hook up a battery and speakers. With the covers off, probe
individual parts untill you find one that will reproduce the problem. Then
it is just a matter of repairing the bad connection by cleaning or
soldering. Only after you find it will it be apparant what needs to be done.
Steve Galyean - Electronics Tech
1955 100-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alexis Zarkades" <zdesign@mediaone.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 8:42 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8 Radio
>
> Does anybody know of anyone that can repair a 1965 BJ8 radio.
>
> At times it works then goes out.
>
> Any thoughts.
>
> Thanks
> Nick Zarkades
> 1965 BJ6
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 22:54:27 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Radio
Nick,
A good source is Hemmings Motor News. Look under Services and under that
look under radio. A couple years ago I had a BMC radio repaired by
Wilford Wilkes
101 Swoope St
Brisbin, PA 16620
Have not installed it yet but he assures me it works fine. I just enjoy the
sound of the exhaust too much!
Keith Pennell
> Does anybody know of anyone that can repair a 1965 BJ8 radio.
>
> At times it works then goes out.
>
> Any thoughts.
>
> Thanks
> Nick Zarkades
> 1965 BJ6
From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 23:45:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Hardtops (was "long shot")
> Thank you for the leads.(for bj8 hardtop) It's been fun researching. Almost
>had an orginal "healey works" top.
> At least I've been able to find reproductions of the orginal. FYI the
>smoothline is not the same. I'm continuing
> to look for the real thing before ordering a reproduction. Again thank you
>for your effort. Also if you could look
> in some older resource books, I may be able to locate soom of those cars with
>hard tops from the first e-mail. (1)
> Eddie Ito's blue bj8 w/hardtop 1976 (2) Bruce Efer's blue bj8 w/hardtop
>1985 (3) Louie Venter's blue bj8
> w/hardtop 1991. It would be great to speak with some"retied" healey guy's.
>If anyone can help let me know.
> Thanks!! Dave
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 02:21:00 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Hardtops (was "long shot")
Just a reminder. I have four new rear windows for the BJ8 hardtop in case of
need. Cheers, Bill Bolton
From robert hughes <dhugh at mail.tscnet.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 01:33:48 -0800
Subject: Close ratio gears
Back in the early 60's when I was racing a class H Sprite,
I put in close ratio gears and eliminated the big gap
between 2nd and 3rd. It would seem reasonable that these
c/r gears were available for the big Healeys also. Does
anyone know if they were and if they are still available now?
Thanks,
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
60 Sprite
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:19:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
Hi Roland,
> I am missing your point, I think.
> Many studs, especially the high strength ones, have a smaller
diameter on the unthreaded shank than the > major diameter of the
threads. Are you talking about some specially made studs, probably
easier to > make up than turning down a hexagonal piece of
steel?
Sorry, as I am a German I have some problems to explain. Yes, we
thought of making two special studs with a unthreaded shank that is
exactly adapted to the bores in the bellhousing (even to enlarged ones
would be a possibility) and leave these bolted to the engine
backplate. From the experience of my motorbuilder it is easier to push
the bellhousing back on studs as to find the threads in the backplate
with a bolt.
Most of the bores in the bellhousing are damaged from all the
lockwashers used throughout the years. The diameter on the lockwasher
side is smaller than the one on the backplate side. We will carefully
ream the bore make a flat countersunk (is this correct expressed ?)
and then use a thick washer with a lockwasher together with the bolts.
Hope I could make clear our thoughts.
Regards
Martin
Germany
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 10:25:19 +0000
Subject: Preparing to start up a BJ8 after over-wintering...can someone
My BJ8 has not been touched for 6 months (apart from a gentle stroke
each time I go into my garage!).
Before I start, should I do something to lubricate the cylinders? My
inclination is to remove all the spark-plugs, drop a spoonful of engine
oil into each cylinder through the spark-plug holes, and crank the
engine on battery for half a minute or so.
Is this a good thing to do? Is a spoonful enough? Should it be done with
the plugs in or out? Is half a minute enough, or do I need much more
than that?
Is there anything else, apart from fluids, that is an absolute 'must' to
check before hitting the road for the first time?
Advice from the wiser-than-me gratefully sought!
Many thanks.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 09:30:27 EST
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
In my experience, the diameter of "standard" bolts will vary a lot, and some
maly actlually be 0.373". However, it is my underastanding that the dowel
bolts were manufactured to a higher quality control and thus out of a large
number the diameter variation will be very little and much less than for a
similar group of standard bolts.
Roger
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 06:33:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
I think you can simply cut off the hex head from a 3 1/2 " 3/8-24
bolt, exposing the unthreaded shank to use as a stud. Screw it into
the top bolt hole that that goes through the back plate into the
engine block. After the bellhousing is bolted up, then replace the
stud with the dowel bolt (or other). I have found that it is much
easier to align the trans onto a stud rather than trying to hold up
the trans and getting a bolt started in a bolt hole that you can't
really see. It also helps support the weight of the transmission
until you get the rest of the bolts in and tightened. I've done this
on other transmission installations and it works well.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
>
> Hi Roland,
>
> > I am missing your point, I think.
> > Many studs, especially the high strength ones, have a smaller
> diameter on the unthreaded shank than the > major diameter of the
> threads. Are you talking about some specially made studs, probably
> easier to > make up than turning down a hexagonal piece of
> steel?
>
> Sorry, as I am a German I have some problems to explain. Yes, we
> thought of making two special studs with a unthreaded shank that is
> exactly adapted to the bores in the bellhousing (even to enlarged
ones
> would be a possibility) and leave these bolted to the engine
> backplate. From the experience of my motorbuilder it is easier to
push
> the bellhousing back on studs as to find the threads in the
backplate
> with a bolt.
>
> Most of the bores in the bellhousing are damaged from all the
> lockwashers used throughout the years. The diameter on the
lockwasher
> side is smaller than the one on the backplate side. We will
carefully
> ream the bore make a flat countersunk (is this correct expressed ?)
> and then use a thick washer with a lockwasher together with the
bolts.
>
> Hope I could make clear our thoughts.
>
>
> Regards
>
> Martin
> Germany
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 06:53:27 -0800
Subject: Repairing shock mounting nuts
Hi all,
I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found a
product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would pass
it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since this
is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of stress,
I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring the
seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy. I
did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the threads.
Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
Mark Fawcett
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:02:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
Hi Mark,
> I think you can simply cut off the hex head from a 3 1/2 " 3/8-24
> bolt, exposing the unthreaded shank to use as a stud. Screw it into
> the top bolt hole that that goes through the back plate into the
> engine block. After the bellhousing is bolted up, then replace the
> stud with the dowel bolt (or other). I have found that it is much
> easier to align the trans onto a stud rather than trying to hold up
> the trans and getting a bolt started in a bolt hole that you can't
> really see. It also helps support the weight of the transmission
> until you get the rest of the bolts in and tightened. I've done
this
> on other transmission installations and it works well.
That's exactly our point. Just that we will leave the specially mfg.
stud in place and use nuts and washers. With the manufactured stud we
will eliminate the tolerances Roger talks about (May be, being able to
be more precise than the original dowel bolt as the bores may be out
of orig. spec.).
Regards
Martin
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:58:26 EST
Subject: Re: Close ratio gears
FYI check Dennis Welch Motors (http://www.bighealey.co.uk/), SC Parts Group
Ltd. (http://www.scparts.co.uk/) and you may find a close ratio to suit your
needs. Of course these are straight cut gear sets.
M.S.Brantley, Jr.
BT7x2
BJ8
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:08:18 EST
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
All this talk about tolerance and studs and stuff. Would it not be easier to
just get the correct bolts and be done with it?
Or we could discuss the micro grain structure and stress factors for this
rocket engine part.
Keep it simple!
Don
From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:39:38 EST
Subject: Re: Preparing to start up a BJ8 after over-wintering...can
In short, it couldn't hurt. The best thing to do would be to crank the
engine over until you see oil pressure, then try to start the engine.
Basically you are pumping theoil up into the top of the engine. The starter
doesn't turn the engine fast enough to really hurt anything, but a running
engine does turn faster.
If you want to put a few dropps of oil into the cyllinders, that would help,
but you will have a smokey mess on your hands until the oil burns off. Its
probably not necessary.
Good Luck!
Tim
In a message dated 03/11/2001 5:27:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Before I start, should I do something to lubricate the cylinders? My
inclination is to remove all the spark-plugs, drop a spoonful of engine
oil into each cylinder through the spark-plug holes, and crank the
engine on battery for half a minute or so.
Is this a good thing to do? Is a spoonful enough? Should it be done with
the plugs in or out? Is half a minute enough, or do I need much more
than that? >>
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:48:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
<<micro grain structure >>
Geesh, Don, now you're bring "farm buildings" into this?!?!?
And you shoulda writ'
KISS !!
<G><G><G>
Ed
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 10:34:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
Yes Don it would, but this thread started when someone asked for a
source for the dowel bolts because they couldn't find them. Then it
got off on whether they are needed or not. Your point is well taken
though as it did seem to get a little tedious.
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <hm.heim@t-online.de>; <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Dowel bolts
> All this talk about tolerance and studs and stuff. Would it not be
easier to
> just get the correct bolts and be done with it?
>
> Or we could discuss the micro grain structure and stress factors for
this
> rocket engine part.
>
> Keep it simple!
>
> Don
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 13:51:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Hardtops (was "long shot")
Dave,
I was just going through some old Healey mail when I came across the Spring
2000 CapeWorks (Cape International) newsletter/sales flyer. 2/3 of the
front page is a small article about the Hardtops they have for sale (a year
ago). The article says they have original hardtops for any model BN1
through BJ8. It might be worth a call or email. Their number is 01676
542292 FAX: 01676 542464 Email:
www.cape-international.com
I hope this helps,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1@home.com>
>Reply-To: Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1@home.com>
>To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "reidt@healey.org"
><reidt@healey.org>
>Subject: Re: Healey Hardtops (was "long shot")
>Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 23:45:53 -0500
>
> > Thank you for the leads.(for bj8 hardtop) It's been fun researching.
>Almost had an orginal "healey works" top.
> > At least I've been able to find reproductions of the orginal. FYI the
>smoothline is not the same. I'm continuing
> > to look for the real thing before ordering a reproduction. Again thank
>you for your effort. Also if you could look
> > in some older resource books, I may be able to locate soom of those cars
>with hard tops from the first e-mail. (1)
> > Eddie Ito's blue bj8 w/hardtop 1976 (2) Bruce Efer's blue bj8
>w/hardtop 1985 (3) Louie Venter's blue bj8
> > w/hardtop 1991. It would be great to speak with some"retied" healey
>guy's. If anyone can help let me know.
> > Thanks!! Dave
_________________________________________________________________
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:35:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
I found the TIME SERT web page earlier, and I found the HeliCoil site
too... All because I was/am facing the same problem. I bought the
helicoil kit, and was thinking of buying the TIME SERT one too, ... Just
to compare the depth and strength implications of the two solutions.
I've not yet bought the TIME SERT kit, partly because I was unsure of the
depth to get. Which kit did you use?....
Has anyone else tried either of these solutions (vice the traditional
rewelding process...)
Thanks
-Skip-
Mark Fawcett wrote:
> Hi all,
> I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
> found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found a
> product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would pass
> it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
> unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since this
> is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of stress,
> I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
> installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring the
> seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
> insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy. I
> did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the threads.
> Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
> I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
> Mark Fawcett
From rcomito <rcomito at uia.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:54:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
The Austin Healey Association which is centered in the LA area is
hosting its annual California Healey Week, May 31-June 3d at the Rio Bravo
Resort which is located just East of Bakersfield, CA.
Events include a British Pub Night, drive up the Kern River Canyon
to Kernville for lunch, dinner at a Basque Restaurant, a popular car show
at the lodge,
remote car racing, a panoramic drive through the Bakersfield area,"Healey
Feeley,"
awards banquet, raffle brunch and many other fun activities.
I have attached the registration files and tentative schedule of events for
additional information.
For more information contact Ralph Comito: rcomito@uia.net or at
909-985-6481
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mac-binhex40 which had
a name of CHW_2001_schedule]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mac-binhex40 which had
a name of CHW_2001_Registration_1]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mac-binhex40 which had
a name of CHW_2001_Registration_2]
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:05:42 -0000
Subject: The NEW Austin Healey
Listers I have just updated my website, with what I suspect will be the new
Bavarian Motor Works Austin Healey.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:13:14 EST
Subject: Healey Sighting in Automobile Magazine
In the latest issue of Automobile Magazine -- should be on newsstands in a
week or so -- there's a fun article by Jamie Kitman, who describes his Krazy
Kar Kollection -- ten cars including a majority of British. One of them is a
Healey he purchased last year in Pittsburgh. Of course, he mentions that he
had an accident with it soon after purchase, so he's not driving it at the
moment. But nice to see the mention of British cars, including Healeys, from
a mainstream auto magazine editor.
Cheers
Gary
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:16:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
I've used the Helicoil solution on my front shock mounts of my vintage race
Healey for years - no problems at all.
Fred
skip wrote:
> I found the TIME SERT web page earlier, and I found the HeliCoil site
> too... All because I was/am facing the same problem. I bought the
> helicoil kit, and was thinking of buying the TIME SERT one too, ... Just
> to compare the depth and strength implications of the two solutions.
> I've not yet bought the TIME SERT kit, partly because I was unsure of the
> depth to get. Which kit did you use?....
>
> Has anyone else tried either of these solutions (vice the traditional
> rewelding process...)
>
> Thanks
> -Skip-
>
> Mark Fawcett wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
> > found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found a
> > product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would pass
> > it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
> > unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since this
> > is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of stress,
> > I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
> > installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring the
> > seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
> > insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy. I
> > did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the threads.
> > Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
> > I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
> > Mark Fawcett
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
From aroil at sensewave.com
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 23:24:20 +0100
Subject: New Realplayer Healey video - Snow!!!
Hello
I have updatet my homepage with a new video in Realplayer format. It's
from 1st of January last year, and is filmed inside the car. Click on
"Videopages"
The driving conditions is good Norwegian winter roads with lots of snow.
Have a nice view!
Anders
http://home.sol.no/~anroil/
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:56:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
Skip,
I bought the standard kit, I think it was the .54" depth. From Norm
Nocks Tech Talk I understood the reweld fix is for a catastrophic
failure of the plate or if the weldnuts have broken loose from the
plate. If the nuts are just striped, but still secured to the plate, I
don't think it is necessary to replace the plate. I don't have any
experence with the helicoil, the Time Sert just appeared stronger to
me. I also used Lock Tight Sleeve Retainer (green) extra high strength
to secure the insert in the nut and red lock tight on the shock bolt.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
>
> I found the TIME SERT web page earlier, and I found the HeliCoil
site
> too... All because I was/am facing the same problem. I bought the
> helicoil kit, and was thinking of buying the TIME SERT one too, ...
Just
> to compare the depth and strength implications of the two solutions.
> I've not yet bought the TIME SERT kit, partly because I was unsure
of the
> depth to get. Which kit did you use?....
>
> Has anyone else tried either of these solutions (vice the
traditional
> rewelding process...)
>
> Thanks
> -Skip-
>
>
> Mark Fawcett wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
> > found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found
a
> > product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would
pass
> > it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
> > unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since
this
> > is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of
stress,
> > I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
> > installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring
the
> > seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
> > insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy.
I
> > did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the
threads.
> > Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
> > I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
> > Mark Fawcett
From "Paul Cleary" <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:45:42 -0500
Subject: Exhaust bracket positions.
I wonder if anyone can help. I am fitting a new (origional style) exhaust
system on my BJ8. The studs for the brackets have disappeared along time
ago. I have installed the front rubber mount, its the next pair that are
giving me a problem, the brackets that fit just in front of the rear wheels.
I have mounted the brackets just before the cross member that supports the
rear spring, but I find that the exhaust is tight against the cross member.
I can see where the next set goes as the threaded nuts are still there.
I would appreciate if anyone can help.
Regards, Paul Cleary
67 BJ8
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:32:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
Have used the HeliCoil method several times, always successful.
Cheers.....Bob @ AUTOFARM
----- Original Message -----
From: skip <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts
>
> I found the TIME SERT web page earlier, and I found the HeliCoil site
> too... All because I was/am facing the same problem. I bought the
> helicoil kit, and was thinking of buying the TIME SERT one too, ... Just
> to compare the depth and strength implications of the two solutions.
> I've not yet bought the TIME SERT kit, partly because I was unsure of the
> depth to get. Which kit did you use?....
>
> Has anyone else tried either of these solutions (vice the traditional
> rewelding process...)
>
> Thanks
> -Skip-
>
>
> Mark Fawcett wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I just started assembling the front suspension of my 60 BT7 when I
> > found that one of the nuts in the shock pads was striped. I found a
> > product that worked very well to repair it and I thought I would pass
> > it along. It's called TIME SERT. It's a solid threaded bushing,
> > unlike a helicoil which is like a spring coil. I thought since this
> > is an attachment that is under more than the average amount of stress,
> > I wanted to use something that I thought would be stronger. It is
> > installed by drilling out the threads oversized, counter boring the
> > seat, tapping the hole to accept the insert, and screwing in the
> > insert. They sell a kit with everything needed. It was very easy. I
> > did have to buy a right angle drill adapter to drill out the threads.
> > Their web address is www.timesert.com for more information.
> > I don't have any interest in the product I just liked the product.
> > Mark Fawcett
From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:07:38 +1100
Subject: Photos for Phillip Coombs
G'day
I was wondering if anyone has the contact details of Phillip Coombs? He who is
having a ball competing in his 100S.
Many years back when that car came to Australia, actually 1974, complete with
Corvette engine and enlarged nose section I was given a couple of B&W photos of
when the car was new.
In my never ceasing job of keeping the paper at bay I came across the photos
over the weekend and I would like to send them to Phillip.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:25:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Repairing shock mounting nuts--heli-coils
Hello Listers,
One thing that should be mentioned viz Heli-Coils et al--they are actually
stronger than the threads they replace, due to their increased surface area,
larger diameter and generally higher quality stainless steel.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:27:30 -0800
Subject: Toyota 5 speed conversion experience sought
Hello Listers,
I'd like to hear offline from anyone who's done the Toyota 5-speed
conversion. Thank you.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 07:43:28 EST
Subject: Re: Photos for Phillip Coombs
G'day Patrick,
To reach Phil Coombs, try PSTETSONC@aol.com
Rudy Streng
in the North Carolina Outback
From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:21:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Close ratio gears
I believe Denis Welch has them....www.bighealey.co.uk
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "robert hughes" <dhugh@mail.tscnet.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 4:33 AM
Subject: Close ratio gears
>
> Back in the early 60's when I was racing a class H Sprite,
> I put in close ratio gears and eliminated the big gap
> between 2nd and 3rd. It would seem reasonable that these
> c/r gears were available for the big Healeys also. Does
> anyone know if they were and if they are still available now?
> Thanks,
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> 60 Sprite
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:08:01 +0000
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Brian,
try Autostorica (aka GrandPrix Raceware) at http://www.autostorica.com/ who have
a large selection of period helmets. If you have any problems please contact me
off line.
Peter Dzwig
BN4
Brian Mix wrote:
> You know those cool helmets you see the vintage racers wearing in all the old
> photo's. The plastic half-helmet with the leather ear flaps. Does anybody
> reproduce those new?
>
> Brian
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 09:24:11 -0600
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Brian,
I just left Holden's web site - WHOA! They have a full line of vintage
racing, touring and ralley apparel. Check them out at www.holden.co.uk
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
>From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
>Reply-To: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
>To: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
>Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:08:01 +0000
>
>Brian,
>
>try Autostorica (aka GrandPrix Raceware) at http://www.autostorica.com/ who
>have
>a large selection of period helmets. If you have any problems please
>contact me
>off line.
>
>Peter Dzwig
>BN4
>
>Brian Mix wrote:
>
> > You know those cool helmets you see the vintage racers wearing in all
>the old
> > photo's. The plastic half-helmet with the leather ear flaps. Does
>anybody
> > reproduce those new?
> >
> > Brian
_________________________________________________________________
From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 9:12:27 -0800
Subject: $15,000 Healeys
My 2c for the hornet's nest.
Someone, a while back, was looking for a $15,000 Healey.
They are fairly plentiful. I drive one every day.
OK, I bought it for $15,000 and put another $4,000 into it. (Although
somebody who knew what they were doing would have spent much less.)
It's a Healey V-8 and it is a hoot to drive. I know, I know, it's not
a real Healey. Of course it's not. But if you don't mind
being stoned by the purists, there are some real advantages.
The engine (mine's a 56 Corvette in a 56 BN2) weighs about the same as
the original lump but puts out at least twice the power and is virtually
trouble
free. Whether or not you like the Valkerian howl of an American
race-tuned V-8 at full chat is a matter of taste. But practically,
and practicality it you wish to have a life outside your Healey,
does count, owning a hybrid frees you from the tyranny of
authenticity. You'll never have to worry about replicating the cross
threaded bull pins from the Abingdon factory because the car reflects
your choice and not the check list of a concourse inspector.
None of these arguments will sway the purist in the least. My great
friend Hutchins, born in Northampton near Silverstone owned
two Healeys when he was a young art director in London. And the idea
of a Yank V-8 in that beautiful body really pisses him off.
Doesn't matter that the car was pulled off the scrap heap as most of the
conversions were. Or that literally hundreds of them were made in the
sixties and seventies qualifying them as a marque of their own. Or that
Sydney Allard, a Brit, started it all when he stuffed a Cadillac V-8 into
his Allard J-2. Or that AC-Cobras are as acceptable as butter on
toast. None of that matters. It's just not a "proper Healey."
Ah, but if you want to see the heads turn and little boys
run alongside and pretty girls ask for a ride, and feel the wild scream of
real power in that beautiful body, you might just think about a
hybrid.
Cheers, Bob Judd
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:37:19 -0600
Subject: Pertronix & Impluse Tach Combo
I just read an article in British Car Mag which indicates that using
electronic ignition may cause the tach to read incorrectly. I just
changed from points/condenser ignition to the Pertronix electronic
ignition and am going to send my impulse type tach out for repair and
recalibration. Should I buy a different type of tachometer instead?
Anyone have problems with this combination?
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 14:09:03 -0600
Subject: Four Point Harness
Hi Listers,
I can use some advice. I am interested in replace my old worn 3-point seat
beats with new 4 point racing-style harness with 3" webbing. I have some
questions I hope the list can help with.
1. The few harness I've seen advertised mount on each side of the seat the
the "Y" shoulder harness mounts centered behind the seat. Short of
installing a rollbar, where do other Healey owners attatch the anchor for
the end of the "Y" strap? My thinking is on the back bulkhead wall under
the rear shroud.
2. What are some of the features to look for in selecting a harness?
3. Likewise, what are some of the features to avoid in a harness?
4.Victoria British advertises a 3" 4-point harness in their catalog. Has
anyone had previous experience with this particular item? Any other sources
worth considering?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:04:58 EST
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
In a message dated 3/12/01 12:12:30 PM, ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
<<
1. The few harness I've seen advertised mount on each side of the seat the
the "Y" shoulder harness mounts centered behind the seat. Short of
installing a rollbar, where do other Healey owners attatch the anchor for
the end of the "Y" strap? My thinking is on the back bulkhead wall under
the rear shroud.
2. What are some of the features to look for in selecting a harness? >>
Couple of points that I learned when I was putting new belts into my "new"
MGA race car. First, for whatever reason, most vintage groups forbid the use
of a "Y" shoulder harness, requiring instead that the shoulder straps attach
separately to the anchor points.
Second, the recommendation is that the should strap anchor points not be
below the shoulder line -- nor very much above the shoulders either -- some
people make the mistake in street cars of anchoring the shoulder straps to
the floor or lower rear bulkhead. In a collision, the driver would be forced
down, instead of being restrained from going forward.
Third, you are going to have to put in some sort of substantial anchor bar
running across the back. In a race car, that's typically a second bar at
shoulder height extending across from the roll bar uprights. You couldn't
just fasten the should straps to the rear bulkhead because they would just
pull right out in a crash.
Perhaps someone else has figured out a way to weld in a strong cross-member
behind the rear bulkhead to which the shoulder straps could be fastened.
Cheers
Gary
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 13:40:24 -0800
Subject: solenoid for starter
Have any of you bought the replacement (non-original) solenoid for the
starter from MOSS. What looks different and can you really see it based on
where it is mounted in the Healeys?
Jerry
From "Jae Lee" <jlee at cogentlight.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 12:18:34 -0800
Subject: healey sighting
sighted a nice silver/grey austin healey "looked like a" 100-6 cruising on
melrose in los angeles this past saturday.
driver was wearing headphones.
anyone on the list?
jae
bn1
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 14:51:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Pertronix & Impluse Tach Combo
Alan: When you say 'pusle type tach' do you mean electronic as in BJ8? I
had a Crane (Allison) and now have a Pertronix in my BJ8. No problems with
the tach with either one. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Schultz" <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 11:37 AM
Subject: Pertronix & Impluse Tach Combo
>
> I just read an article in British Car Mag which indicates that using
> electronic ignition may cause the tach to read incorrectly. I just
> changed from points/condenser ignition to the Pertronix electronic
> ignition and am going to send my impulse type tach out for repair and
> recalibration. Should I buy a different type of tachometer instead?
> Anyone have problems with this combination?
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name
of aschultz.vcf]
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:55:25 -0800
Subject: AD: Bugeye for sale
Hi, I took my car out for a spin and wandered over to Jim Griffin's place
here in SSF. He's been selling off a lot of his cars, and has a nice bugeye
I figured I'd let the list know about. Here's the specs:
1959 Bugeye, white with black interior
New 1275cc engine (Not rebuilt, brand new he said. Has spin-on oil filter
boss on the block.)
Rebuilt transmission and differential
New brakes, with front discs off a Midget
New tires, top, side curtains, wire loom, wire wheels
Original 998cc engine available
Jim's asking $13,950. His # is 650-225-0872.
No personal interest, yada yada.
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 16:08:44 -0800
Subject: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
I've been running around my area looking for non-detergent oil for my trans
and so far found squat. Does anyone in the San Francisco, San Mateo, San
Jose area know who stocks this stuff?
PS any lister have a red/black Healey out on El Camino in San Mateo around
2:30PM today?
Thanks
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8
'94 325is
http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:22:37 -0800
Subject: Got lots of Napa recommendations, so..
Thanks to all who responded to my oil inquiry. Guess I'll give up on
looking to match the Valvoline in there now and switch to Napa! Anyone know
who makes their oil? (Never mind, don't want to start a new thread on that!)
From "Gary Bridi" <gbridi at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:13:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
I have a CROW harness on my 54 BN1. I anchored the Y strap where tou
suggested and reingorced the area with a large metal disk through whivch I
ran the bolt. You need to mount it up high so you can run the Y strap over
the hood and engage it without putting pressure on the hood. I also had my
tonneau modified so it runs through the cover, and then over my shoulders to
the buckle. It works great , I hope this is understandable. Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
>
> In a message dated 3/12/01 12:12:30 PM, ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
>
> <<
> 1. The few harness I've seen advertised mount on each side of the seat the
> the "Y" shoulder harness mounts centered behind the seat. Short of
> installing a rollbar, where do other Healey owners attatch the anchor for
> the end of the "Y" strap? My thinking is on the back bulkhead wall under
> the rear shroud.
>
> 2. What are some of the features to look for in selecting a harness? >>
>
> Couple of points that I learned when I was putting new belts into my "new"
> MGA race car. First, for whatever reason, most vintage groups forbid the
use
> of a "Y" shoulder harness, requiring instead that the shoulder straps
attach
> separately to the anchor points.
>
> Second, the recommendation is that the should strap anchor points not be
> below the shoulder line -- nor very much above the shoulders either --
some
> people make the mistake in street cars of anchoring the shoulder straps to
> the floor or lower rear bulkhead. In a collision, the driver would be
forced
> down, instead of being restrained from going forward.
>
> Third, you are going to have to put in some sort of substantial anchor bar
> running across the back. In a race car, that's typically a second bar at
> shoulder height extending across from the roll bar uprights. You couldn't
> just fasten the should straps to the rear bulkhead because they would just
> pull right out in a crash.
> Perhaps someone else has figured out a way to weld in a strong
cross-member
> behind the rear bulkhead to which the shoulder straps could be fastened.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:04:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
Bill,
I bought my 30wt non detergent at Auto Zone (the old Chief Auto Parts) here in
So. Calif. The only brand they carried was the store generic "Coastal ND30".
For the motor, I still prefer old Castrol.
Good luck.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
'71 XKEv12
Bill Katz wrote:
> I've been running around my area looking for non-detergent oil for my trans
> and so far found squat. Does anyone in the San Francisco, San Mateo, San
> Jose area know who stocks this stuff?
>
> PS any lister have a red/black Healey out on El Camino in San Mateo around
> 2:30PM today?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at ctaz.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:05:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Got lots of Napa recommendations, so..
The last I knew, Ashland Oil (Valvoline) was the contractor for Napa
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: Got lots of Napa recommendations, so..
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my oil inquiry. Guess I'll give up on
> looking to match the Valvoline in there now and switch to Napa! Anyone
know
> who makes their oil? (Never mind, don't want to start a new thread on
that!)
From Susan and John Roper <vscjohn at huntnet.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 20:59:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
Hi Carlos. Without a roll bar or cage, a 4 point harness is a bad idea. stick
with the three point which will allow you to get down if you have to. John
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> I can use some advice. I am interested in replace my old worn 3-point seat
> beats with new 4 point racing-style harness with 3" webbing. I have some
> questions I hope the list can help with.
>
> 1. The few harness I've seen advertised mount on each side of the seat the
> the "Y" shoulder harness mounts centered behind the seat. Short of
> installing a rollbar, where do other Healey owners attatch the anchor for
> the end of the "Y" strap? My thinking is on the back bulkhead wall under
> the rear shroud.
>
> 2. What are some of the features to look for in selecting a harness?
>
> 3. Likewise, what are some of the features to avoid in a harness?
>
> 4.Victoria British advertises a 3" 4-point harness in their catalog. Has
> anyone had previous experience with this particular item? Any other sources
> worth considering?
>
> Thank you in advance for your help.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
> _________________________________________________________________
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:13:23 EST
Subject: Re: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
In a message dated 3/12/01 7:12:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
> looking for non-detergent oil for my trans
>
If there are NAPA stores in your area you may check and see if they carry
Valvoline 30w non-detergent. Most of them do here on the West Coast (of
Florida that is).
M.S.Brantley, Jr.
BT7x2
BJ8
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 19:14:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Ride with Fred Crowley
Lordy, Lordy, I'm in Heaven;
I just discovered one bloody neat site and took two fantastic runs with
Fred Crowley - Hell, I reran the clips over and over. The real downer
is that I wish I had been at the track when he was there - somehow I
missed this one. Both clips are at Mosport Park track just to the east
of Toronto, Ontario. The first run is down the back straight and the
sounds just curled the hair on the back of my neck - loved it. The
second clip shows Fred taking a spin at corner 2. I must say he
handled the car quite well and rejoined the race without missing a
beat. But he is lucky he didn't do this a few years ago when the
Armco was almost right up against the track - he wouldn't have been
going much further. The other interesting thing about the second clip
is the commentary when the lady shooting the film makes a comment
something like "get your hands off me". Let your imagination roam but
for what its worth, she doesn't flinch with the camera and continues
panning for the entire spin - a great job. The movie clips use
RealPlayer and can be found at http://www.teamhealeytexas.com The back
straight is 1.6 Mbytes and the spin is 2.2 Mbytes. Just sit back,
turn up the volume and enjjjjjjoy.
--Scott Morris '62 BT7 tricarb driver & '60 BN7 project
Simcoe, Ontario
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:20:40 EST
Subject: Re: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
If all else fails try a lawn mower/garden equipment supplier. The reccomended
oil for most of these is 30wt Non Detergent. I have also seen it carried at
garden centers.
Peter S.
Charlotte NC
bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
> I've been running around my area looking for non-detergent oil for my trans
> and so far found squat
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:36:33 -0500
Subject: Girling 5/8 booster
I have a non-original brake booster on my BJ8. The chest part
doesn't look like the original. However, the body has 5/8
Girling stamped on the top part of the body. I did not notice
any other markings. The chest part looks like the Lockheed
vacuum chamber, but isn't exactly the same. Instead of the
strap that goes around the chest perimeter, there is a kind of
twist seal. It appears that the front half of the chest
rotates a few degrees and then can pop off the assembly. The
whole assembly mounts on what apears to be the original mounting
bracket, but it only uses 3 mounting bolts.
I'm interested in converting to silicon brake fluid.
Can someone point me towards a Girling parts specialist who
might be able to identify the brake booster and provide me with
the rebuild kit for it?
Thanks
-Skip-
From Mjsprite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:40:37 EST
Subject: Bugeye Parts Anyone?
Listers,
Bugeye parts car is slated for wrecking yard in the next couple of weeks. If
anyone needs anything let me know. Car sat outside for 15 years before being
given to me. You can imagine the shape of things. I just hate to junk
anything someone could use. Maybe you need a part to use as a core, something
rebuildable. No upholstery or "soft parts". Have rebuildable 948 engine,
pretty much complete. Front bonnet could use a little work. Starter,
generator, A-arms, carbs, intake manifold, brake drums, backing plates, etc.
Transmission was full of water and rusted, but useable with total rebuild.
Driveshaft needs U-joints, and I think the differential is fine. I'll let 'em
go for shipping charges from Texas, otherwise to the recycler.
Contact me off-line for specifics. Hmmm, anyone got a Weber and manifold for
a 1380 they need to get rid of? Trade ya!
Thanks,
Mike Johnson Amarillo, Texas
mjsprite@aol.com
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:43:12 -0800
Subject: Seat belts
My car has no belts yet. No it has not been on the road yet, either as I
figured that 6' forward and 6' back on the back deck didn't warrant them.
Now we're getting close and stuff like this starts to mean something. The
car has all-new floors and some outriggers. There are no holes to start
from. Any suggestions for mounting 2pt or 3 pt belts? Sources?
Thanks
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:10:08 +0100
Subject: SV: Four Point Harness
Carlos,
It is a good idea to install the anchor points as you assume. Just under the
shroud, the metal is double skinned and extra sturdy at least on BJ7-BJ84s. Be
sure to use large thick washers between the bolts and nuts on the backside of
the bulkhead. There are custom made washers available. A friend of mine mounted
his belts like this and suffered a head-on collision shortly afterwards. He
walked away unharmed from a totalled car.
Otherwise I think choosing the harness is up to personal preferences.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Carlos Cruz <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 9:09 PM
Subject: Four Point Harness
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I can use some advice. I am interested in replace my old worn 3-point seat
> beats with new 4 point racing-style harness with 3" webbing. I have some
> questions I hope the list can help with.
>
> 1. The few harness I've seen advertised mount on each side of the seat the
> the "Y" shoulder harness mounts centered behind the seat. Short of
> installing a rollbar, where do other Healey owners attatch the anchor for
> the end of the "Y" strap? My thinking is on the back bulkhead wall under
> the rear shroud.
>
> 2. What are some of the features to look for in selecting a harness?
>
> 3. Likewise, what are some of the features to avoid in a harness?
>
> 4.Victoria British advertises a 3" 4-point harness in their catalog. Has
> anyone had previous experience with this particular item? Any other sources
> worth considering?
>
> Thank you in advance for your help.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
> _________________________________________________________________
From "Robert J Dunn" <b24730 at strato.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 07:10:57 -0500
Subject: SV: Four Point Harness
I wish to be removed from Healey list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 02:33:42 EST
Subject: 1969 Sprite MKIV HAN9 parts
I am looking for sources of parts for the above car, used and new. Any
suggestions are appreciated. Cheers, Bill
From Jay Quinn <jpquinn at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 07:54:09 -0600
Subject: Buying Car Parts Cheaper
Hi all, Is there anyone out there like Dick Burger who I can send my
order to and get Moss Motor parts or British Victoria parts for a %
discount and have it UPS drop shipped to my house? Thanks, Jay
mailto:jpquinn@home.com
From AGOrendi at aol.com
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 01:38:44 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch pedal extension
Larry,
It would be great to have a sketch of this part accessible for the community
on an AH-club website. Having such an extension would allow my (vertically
challenged) girlfriend to ride the Healey, too.
Regards......Andreas
Germany
100/6-1958
From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:21:25 EST
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
All,
I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
experience?
I plan in putting the car up on car stands
Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
Draining the fluid
start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
I am thinking about
1. replacing the clutch
How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the universal
joints
Anything else I missed?
Jim L.
56 BN2
Bowie, MD
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 22:36:03 -0500
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Listers,
I am posting this for a friend. No personal interest.
FOR SALE: BJ8 project car. The car is located in Newport News, VA. Here is
some general info.
- 1964 phase II ?
- HBJ8L/29668
- 3198BJ8
- 74.552
- steel wheels
- engine turns
- appears 100% complete, but largely in boxes
- OD
- rust in usual areas but car is basically sound
- interior complete but extremely rough
- aftermarket hardtop poor condition
- asking $6000
Steve is a straight shooter. If you want more details contact him at
jlgibbsrealtor@aol.com
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:55:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
Try Pep Boys - I get it there
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 7:08 PM
Subject: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
>
> I've been running around my area looking for non-detergent oil for my
trans
> and so far found squat. Does anyone in the San Francisco, San Mateo, San
> Jose area know who stocks this stuff?
>
> PS any lister have a red/black Healey out on El Camino in San Mateo around
> 2:30PM today?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Katz
> Bay Area, CA
> '67 BJ8
> '94 325is
> http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 05:46:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hardtop for BJ8
Hi Team,
I'm making an enquiry for a fellow Healey pilote here...
He seeks a hardtop, factory style, for his BJ8. I know that some
reproductions were made beginning in the mid-1980s, but I don't recall by
whom. I never really followed the subject at the time, and for all I know
maybe they are still being made.
Any leads? Anybody got one for sale? I'll relay info. I have no personal
interest, etc. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ (March calendar photo now posted)
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 20:12:46 -0600
Subject: Clutch pedal extension
The PO of my "new" BJ8 had a clutch pedal extension installed. It is a
piece of 1/4" flat aluminum stock which places the pedal about 3" closer
to the driver. It was well made and does not show other than the pedal
is closer. I don't know the PO's circumstances but, apparently, there
was a need for it.
Being a big fat guy, there is no need for me to keep it. If anyone is
interested, send me a couple of bucks for shipping and I'll send it
along. A duplicate could easily be made for the brake pedal if you
happen to be vertically challenged.
Better email first as there may be a big rush for this one off part!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 21:45:35 -0500
Subject: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
Please delete this if you have no interest.
For many years I used Ami Pro as my word processor. It seems, with the
installation of W2000 the time has come to finally give it up and switch
to MS Word.
I have hundreds of Ami Pro documents which I have been trying to convert
to Word 2000. I have purchased Lotus Word Pro and can open all the Ami
Pro documents successfully in that but even trying to save them as Word
6.0 docs doesn't cut it.
I understand that IBM still use Word Pro and cannot believe that they
don't have a satisfactory converter.
Any IBMers out there who can shed some light on the subject.
I would be happy to send a Word Pro document for you to play with.
Thanks for your time
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:04:50 EST
Subject: Springthing Special Guests
I am very pleased to announce that Gerry Coker, designer of the Austin Healey
100, will be the special guest at Springthing 2001 to be held May 17, 18 & 19
in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of spring hosted by the Bluegrass
Austin Healey Club. This years event will be held in one of the most
picturesque locations amid the center of Thoroughbred Horse Racing
facilities. Events include a Gymkhana, Rally, Car Show, Funkhana, BBQ,
Banquet and more.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and
registration form are available on our web site at <A
HREF="http://bluegrassclub.com/";>Bluegrassclub.com</A> .
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
"If you want to go really fast in a big Healey, a drop of whisky always
helped."
Timo Makinen
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 21:19:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Shock test
Hello Ron and Listers;
The best way to test your shocks to see if they are good is to fill
them with the proper fluid, unbolt them at the arm and then push and pull
the arm through a full cycle about ten times. The shock should give a good
strong resistance in both directions and not lock up part way through a
stroke. If all is well and they do not leak fluid then just change the oil
and re-use them.
Good Luck...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: rons <arjayarjay@worldnet.att.net>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 3:50 AM
Subject: Shock test
>
> My BN1 is on a home-built dolly for ease in moving around the shop as well
> as for optimum working height. I'm fairly certain I need new shocks, both
> front and rear. However, I don't know how to test them just in case they
may
> not all require replacing. Does anyone have a suggestion? TIA
> Ron BN1
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 11:48:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Car & Driver Mag.
Roger:
The Austin Healey 100 pictured throughout this article is my pre-production
car, AHX-14 and as a result I have a number of copies. It mentions that the car
was made available by Joe Cam's Autorama in Reading PA. Tom Shappell, a partner
with Joe Cam, owned the car at that time. Tom thought is was a Sebring car at
the time because he knew it was an all alloy body.
I got most of them from magazine vendors, and others on Ebay from time to
time. If you can't locate a copy, I will give you one of mine. .....no charge.
Let me know.
Regards, Blair
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/3/01 6:09:35 PM, Rmoment@aol.com writes:
>
> <<Hi,
>
> I'm trying to locate a copy of the Nov. 1968 issue of Car & Driver Magazine.
> It has a yellow cover witha Mach 1 Mustang, and an article within on the
> Healey 100.
>
> Can anyone help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> >>
>
> Roger,
>
> Is this the orange 100 with blue racing stripe issue?
>
> Rick
From "Kent" <KentMcLean at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:48:42 -0500
Subject: Spridget and Jensen-Healeys FS
Gentlepeople,
The Alfa Romeo list had a pointer to some Italian cars available through a
Santa Clara (CA) Charity. What caught my eye were a (racing?) Spridget
and TWO Jensen-Healeys. See:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=18663&a=12041650&f=0
Contact "karl doll" <karld@ix.netcom.com>. I have no interest, financial
or otherwise.
Peace,
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2, rusting away
From Bobsoniaharris at aol.com
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:16:17 EST
Subject: Fwd: Healey Art
Return-path: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
From: Bobsoniaharris@aol.com
Full-name: Bobsoniaharris
Message-ID: <7c.127bedbd.27d59060@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:59:12 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Art
To: HealeyAuto@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 130
While cruising, I also found a great BN1 or BN2 painting and poster from Art
Drive Galleries @ artdrive.net. As a BJ8 guy, I can't tell if it's a BN! or 2
-- maybe you experts know.
Bob
BJ8 35411
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:58:15 -0500
Subject: British Car Parts
Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in Madisonville,
KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
friend's BJ7 resto.
TIA
Keith Pennell
From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:18:27 -0600
Subject: AH & MG parts for sale
AH/MG PARTS FOR SALE (or trade for "100" bits); please contact me off
list:
NEW: door seal (red) for 100-6/early 3000; reproduction; $15 + shpg
USED:
King Dick B1077 jack for BN1 (also MGA & TD?); no handle
original (not repro) MGA transmission gears (not close ratio); 1000 mi
of use
original MGA distributor with vacuum advance; 1000 mi of use
original MGA tyre pump with folding wire feet; 19" tall; no markings
pair original Dunlop tyre levers
pair of good front shocks that fit AH, but have reservoir on top; 6000
mi of use
miniature brass Tecalamit grease gun; 5 3/4" long; 7/8" diameter
original Lucas Sport coil; red top; aluminum body; push-on connections
WRENCHES (all marked "Made in England"; not repros):
King Dick box spanner; 4" long; 5/8 A/F - 9/16 A/F (from MGA)
King Dick flat open end 4 1/2" long; 1/2 A/F - 7/16 A/F (from MGA)
Superslim open end; 8" long; 1/2"W 9/16" BSF - 3/8" W 7/16" BSF
Superslim open end; 9" long; 7/8" AF - 3/4" AF ("GB" on ends)
Spearpoint open end; 3/4"AF - 11/16" AF
Rudi Markl, BN2/100M
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:56:07 -0500
Subject: Re: AH & MG parts for sale
where is b. council located? I know a Bruce Council in Asheville. Is that you?
Dave
"R. Markl/B. Council" wrote:
> AH/MG PARTS FOR SALE (or trade for "100" bits); please contact me off
> list:
>
> NEW: door seal (red) for 100-6/early 3000; reproduction; $15 + shpg
>
> USED:
> King Dick B1077 jack for BN1 (also MGA & TD?); no handle
>
> original (not repro) MGA transmission gears (not close ratio); 1000 mi
> of use
>
> original MGA distributor with vacuum advance; 1000 mi of use
>
> original MGA tyre pump with folding wire feet; 19" tall; no markings
>
> pair original Dunlop tyre levers
>
> pair of good front shocks that fit AH, but have reservoir on top; 6000
> mi of use
>
> miniature brass Tecalamit grease gun; 5 3/4" long; 7/8" diameter
>
> original Lucas Sport coil; red top; aluminum body; push-on connections
>
> WRENCHES (all marked "Made in England"; not repros):
>
> King Dick box spanner; 4" long; 5/8 A/F - 9/16 A/F (from MGA)
>
> King Dick flat open end 4 1/2" long; 1/2 A/F - 7/16 A/F (from MGA)
>
> Superslim open end; 8" long; 1/2"W 9/16" BSF - 3/8" W 7/16" BSF
>
> Superslim open end; 9" long; 7/8" AF - 3/4" AF ("GB" on ends)
>
> Spearpoint open end; 3/4"AF - 11/16" AF
>
> Rudi Markl, BN2/100M
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
>rmarkl.vcf]
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:30:55 -0600
Subject: Heritage Trim Phone Number
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
Thank you in advance,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:31:47 -0600
Subject: Heritage Trim Phone Number
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
Thank you in advance,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:46:17 -0600
Subject: Top frame support pieces
Hi Listers,
I would like to fabricate a couple of top frame support pieces to finish off
my interior and I am hoping someone can help. Can someone please describe
the top frame support strap and retention box on a BN7?
For clarity, the top frame support strap is the quarter-round strap that
retains the top frame when in the stored position behind the driver and
passenger seat. It is attatched to the side interior panel and the back
wall. I would like to know the dimensions (height, length and thickness).
What is the strap made from (ie bent metal, wood, leather, etc.) How is the
piece finished (ie. painted - color, covered - vinyl or carpet material,
other). How are these attatched to the side panel and back wall?
The retention box (probably called something else) is the small box located
on the floor behind the seats in which the bottom of the top-frame rests
while in the stored position. I would like to know the dimensions (height,
length, radius and thickness). What is the strap made from (ie metal, wood,
leather, etc.) How is the piece finished (ie. painted - color, covered -
vinyl or carpet material, other. How are these attatched to the side panel
and back wall or floor?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:20:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
Carlos
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> 4.Victoria British advertises a 3" 4-point harness in their catalog. Has
> anyone had previous experience with this particular item? Any other sources
> worth considering?
I am about to go back to racing - this time a Formula Ford - I buy from
Pegasus. You can get their new catalog free. Go to:
www.pegasusautoracing.com
They have all sorts of possible harnesses available, including separate pieces
and mounting hardware.
Cheers, Barry
BJ7 - just bought waiting for warm weather
TR3 - probably being replaced by above
TR3 - in boxes
Van Diemen FF - also waiting for warm weather and driver's school
From Joe at Farley.net
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 23:10:23 -0800
Subject: RE: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
Mike,
Go to this url and download and install the converter pack
This will then allow Word 2000 to read the .sam files
directly... WOrks great...
http://search.officeupdate.microsoft.com/downloadCatalog/default.asp?Product
=Word&SortBy=Date&SortOrder=d&Version=2000&Type=CV
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Krazy Kiwi
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 6:46 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: No Healey content : Ami Pro - MS Word help wanted
>
>
>
> Please delete this if you have no interest.
>
> For many years I used Ami Pro as my word processor. It seems, with the
> installation of W2000 the time has come to finally give it up and switch
> to MS Word.
> I have hundreds of Ami Pro documents which I have been trying to convert
> to Word 2000. I have purchased Lotus Word Pro and can open all the Ami
> Pro documents successfully in that but even trying to save them as Word
> 6.0 docs doesn't cut it.
> I understand that IBM still use Word Pro and cannot believe that they
> don't have a satisfactory converter.
> Any IBMers out there who can shed some light on the subject.
> I would be happy to send a Word Pro document for you to play with.
> Thanks for your time
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
>
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:51:05 -0600
Subject: Re: British Car Parts
Keith,
British Motor Cars in Madisonville, KY. 502-825-2994,502-821-7050 or fax
502-754-5731.
ListQuest.com - its a great resource. How 'bout the story over a beer?
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
>From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>Reply-To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: British Car Parts
>Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:58:15 -0500
>
>Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in
>Madisonville,
>KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
>friend's BJ7 resto.
>
>TIA
>Keith Pennell
_________________________________________________________________
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 11:36:20 EST
Subject: Re: Four Point Harness
In a message dated 3/12/01 7:01:35 PM, vscjohn@huntnet.net writes:
<< Hi Carlos. Without a roll bar or cage, a 4 point harness is a bad idea.
stick
with the three point which will allow you to get down if you have to. John >>
I think I agree here. A three point will quite adequately prevent you from
going forward in a head-on, and from personal experience, I can tell you that
you still have enough room to slide over in the event of a side-impact
roll-over. In a Datsun 2000, my first wife and I were broadsided on an
overpass approach and pushed off the side, rolling over sideways twice and
ending up upside down. The car was totalled. Wearing standard three point
belts both of us wound up with only bruises from the belts. We both walked
away from the wreck (once they had rolled the car back over so we could get
out).
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "popkapsule" <pkna at popkapsule.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:26:57 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey Art
Hi everyone,
Speaking of Healey art, we have some new sizes and prices if anyone is
interested.
17x22 $100
34x22 $200
These are fine art Austin Healey giclee prints, portrait style, gouache
painting. For non-HTML email users, you can click on the link here and view
the Healey and other cars: www.popkapsule.com/gallery. BTW, a new Gullwing,
has been recently added to the collection.
If anyone is interested email to bpm@popkapsule.com.
Thanks!
POPKAPSULE NORTH ATLANTIK
v: 508.347.7277
f: 508.347.8777
w: www.popkapsule.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of HealeyAuto@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Art
While cruisn' the net I found a site that has two posters with Big Healeys
in
them. The web site is: www.arteauto.com.
Click on Alain Levesque. How do you like em'?
Richard
From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 22:49:22 -0500
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Jim: You got it about right. Here is my $.02
1. It can be a one man job, but it sure is easier with two.
2. Drain the fluid before you place the jacks under the gearbox.
3. Dont forget the two bolts that go up into the transmission mounts from
underneath.
4. If you are going to remove the driveshaft, do it first.
5. Remove the Gearbox and Overdrive as a unit.
6. You have gone this far....Go for a new clutch disc, pressure plate and
throw-out bearing.
7. Make sure you use the two shoulder bolts in the proper location on the
bell housing when
re-installing the gearbox.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:21 PM
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> All,
>
> I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> experience?
>
> I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> Draining the fluid
> start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
>
>
>
> I am thinking about
> 1. replacing the clutch
> How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> joints
>
> Anything else I missed?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
> Bowie, MD
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:08:26 -0800
Subject: RE: British Car Parts
3429 Hanson Rd
Madisonville, KY 42431
(270) 821-6351
I got this from Yahoo Yellow Pages http://yp.yahoo.com/
I assume the listing is current. YMMV.
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:58 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: British Car Parts
>
>
>
> Anyone out there have the phone number for British Car Parts in
> Madisonville,
> KY? Proprietor is Paul Oglesby. Still searching for a good hood for my
> friend's BJ7 resto.
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 23:15:07 -0800
Subject: Re: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
Others will probably disagree, but I recommend pulling the engine and
trany/OD out of the
car and getting it all out in the open were you can work on it without
standing on your head under the dashboard. One time I pulled just the trany
and OD from my BJ8 I dented the engine pan even though I placed a block of
wood on
top of the jack and another time I broke the bronze pilot bearing in the end
of the crank trying to line up the trany during re-installation. Also, the
hole in the firewall shrinks while the trany is out making it difficult to
reinstall. I shouldn't think that it would be much different with a BN2.
There are a lot of other little things you will find to do
while you have the whole system out of the car like cleaning the outside of
the engine and painting if necessary, checking motor mounts, checking for
cracks in the frame around the motor mount brackets, making sure there is no
wear on the woodfuff key and the pully bolt is tight on the front of the
crank, etc., etc.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 2:21 PM
Subject: tips on removal if transmisson and overdirve for a BN2
>
> All,
>
> I reviewed the instructions in the shop manual for removal of the
> transmission and overdrive from my BN2. Any tips on making it a better
> experience?
>
> I plan in putting the car up on car stands
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the engine
> Placing 1 hydraulic jack under the transmission.
> Draining the fluid
> start to unbolt as per the manual's instructions
>
>
>
> I am thinking about
> 1. replacing the clutch
> How do I tell if the clutch needs to be replaced ?
> 2. finding a place to lighten the flywheel
> 3. finding a place to balance the drive shaft and service the
universal
> joints
>
> Anything else I missed?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
> Bowie, MD
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 14:20:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Calif owners - Smog Alert
I took the liberty of adding the following paragraph to Gary's letter:
"I have the perception, as do my fellow old car aficionados and much of the
public at large
that this is a case of bureaucrats picking on the easiest targets, while
continuing to let the large
and gross polluters off the hook because of their financial influence on the
Legislature. The day
Governor Wilson signed SB 42 was a special one in my life and restored, at
least temporarily ,
my faith that government CAN work for all of us. Please do not let this
newfound faith be
destroyed by CARB."
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 9:35 AM
Subject: Calif owners - Smog Alert
>
> This issue has been published here recently, but I'm going to put it up
> again. Because California has not met its federal clean-air targets, the Air
> Resources Board is now moving to try to roll back the exemption granted two
> years ago under Sen. Quentin Kopp's SB42 for cars produced before 1973. This
> law also promised a rolling 30-year exemption starting in 2003.
>
> We got this bill passed because of pressure on the state legislature from
> classic car owners. Our only hope to preserve the exemption is to let our
> legislators know that we still care. All you need to do to find out who your
> senator and assembly representative are is go to www.ca.gov, click on
> "government" then "California Legislature" then "Find your assembly member"
> and "Identify your senator." This will give you their names, addresses, and
> in some cases, email addresses (though if you can manage a snail-mail letter,
> it may have more impact. Shown below is the letter I wrote to my
> representatives, if you'd like some ideas.
>
> Solidarity forever!
> Gary Anderson
>
> February 26, 2001
>
> Representative S. Joseph Simitian
> 408 Florence Street
> Palo Alto, California 94301
>
> Dear Representative Simitian:
>
> I have recently learned through the California collector car network that the
> California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which would overturn
> Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by Governor Wilson about
> two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles older than the 1973 model year
> from biannual smog checks as they were considered collectable vehicles. It
> also put into place a provision that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old
> would be exempted as well.
>
> The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots effort
> by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to this
> hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to provide
> for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the federal
> EPA and Department of Transportation.
>
> The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
> important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
> charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of California's
> culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the insignificant
> contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's clean air
> problems.
>
> As an operator of four British vehicles all over 30 years old and the
> publisher of a national magazine catering to owners of these cars, I am
> particularly concerned with the CARB's attempt to overturn SB 42. All of my
> cars are driven less than 1200 miles a year, are scrupulously maintained, are
> driven with extreme care, and are insured, and garaged.
>
> I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of CARB's
> efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts might follow.
> As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate knowing your own
> position on such a move by CARB
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor and Publisher
> British Car Magazine
> Resident of Los Altos
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:18:47 -0800
Subject: Repeat Messages?
Was it just me or did anyone else receive a bunch of old messages that have
been on the list before? Len .
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:28:41 EST
Subject: Re: Repeat Messages?
<< Was it just me or did anyone else receive a bunch of old messages that have
been on the list before? Len >>
I keep getting repeat messages some of which are over a week old...
Wassup wid dat?
Richard
From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 12:40:09 -0500
Subject: Everybody on the healey list check your dates on your
Sorry no healey content!!
Can everybody on the healey list check the dates on your
computers...... I'm getting e-mails with last weeks date from some of
you.
Maybe it's a problem with the main server??? anybody else getting them
When you have 200 e-mails in your mail box at a time like I do.. it's a
pain to try and find each new message as it comes in if it's not the
current date..
Thanks Todd..... sorry to bother you >>
1959 100-6
1980 MGB Limited
1996 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:22:00 EST
Subject: Re: Repeat Messages?
Mark had a message about this on the Spridgets list. Apparently some ISP has
a problem and is sending the messages back and they get reposted.
Personally, I'm sure everyone enjoys the messages on Springthing and our
special guest Gerry Coker (information at bluegrassclub.com) and can read
them over and over (and over and over..)
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 19:21:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Repeat Messages?
Yep, me, too. Thought I was dreaming.
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyAuto@aol.com>
To: <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Repeat Messages?
>
> << Was it just me or did anyone else receive a bunch of old messages
that have
> been on the list before? Len >>
> I keep getting repeat messages some of which are over a week old...
> Wassup wid dat?
> Richard
From Ray Bradbery <raymond at optushome.com.au>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 05:26:02 +1100
Subject: Re: Repeat Messages?
I saw the same. They were all messages from several weeks ago.
Regards
Ray B
Marge and/or Len Hartnett wrote:
>
> Was it just me or did anyone else receive a bunch of old messages that have
> been on the list before? Len .
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:36:02 -0500
Subject: Discounted Moss parts
Try the following for discounted Moss parts:
britclasics@msn.com
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:51:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Everybody on the healey list check your dates on your
I sent a note to Mark to let him know. It's the list server doing it, not
people's email programs.
-----------------------------------
At 09:40 AM 3/13/2001, you wrote:
>Sorry no healey content!!
>
>Can everybody on the healey list check the dates on your
>computers...... I'm getting e-mails with last weeks date from some of
>you.
>Maybe it's a problem with the main server??? anybody else getting them
>
>When you have 200 e-mails in your mail box at a time like I do.. it's a
>pain to try and find each new message as it comes in if it's not the
>current date..
>
>Thanks Todd..... sorry to bother you >>
>
>
>
>1959 100-6
>1980 MGB Limited
>1996 Audi A4 2.8 quattro
From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:19:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Art
Great painting.
I'll bet its a BN1. Want to know why?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:16 PM
Subject: Fwd: Healey Art
>
> Return-path: <Bobsoniaharris@aol.com>
> From: Bobsoniaharris@aol.com
> Full-name: Bobsoniaharris
> Message-ID: <7c.127bedbd.27d59060@aol.com>
> Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 19:59:12 EST
> Subject: Re: Healey Art
> To: HealeyAuto@aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 130
>
> While cruising, I also found a great BN1 or BN2 painting and poster from
Art
> Drive Galleries @ artdrive.net. As a BJ8 guy, I can't tell if it's a BN!
or 2
> -- maybe you experts know.
> Bob
> BJ8 35411
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 15:14:53 EST
Subject: Re: Top frame support pieces
Both the strap and the box are made of metal and are covered with vinyl the
same color as the interior. The lower box has a piece of wood inside of it to
form a base that has a piece of carpet glued to it. We have these available
new if you are looking for some.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 13:10:40 -0800
Subject: I need a top and Robbins is on the road.
This is how my week has been going:
Called Robbins in Santa Monica, I live fairly close so I was going to
order a custom green top for my BN1 and have them install it. I talked
to them a year ago and they said, "no problem just let us know when
you're ready."
Well I'm ready, and they are moving! To Oxnard!
This means no custom work for months.
Does anyone have another place I could find for a green top for a 100?
Brian
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 16:29:47 -0500
Subject: Hot Wheels Cars
Today I saw the Healey Hot Wheel models at the boys section of J C Penney. I
mention this only in the event that someone still wants to pay inflated
prices in an e-Bay auction for these items that apparently are readily
available everywhere.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 23:25:13 +0100
Subject: SV: Hardtop for BJ8
There is one company in Holland that makes hardtops for BJ7 and BJ84s. They are
the manufacturer of the hardtops sold by SC and John Chatham. I believe that
they also supply other English companies with their hardtops although I4m not
sure about that.
I have one of these hardtops myself and think that it4s quite good. Seen from
the side the shape is not quite accurate above the rear window. The guy claims
that the rear window is made out of lexan but on the top I received this was
not true it was rather made of perspex which is prone to cracking. Other than
these imperfections the tops are alright and could easily pass for the original.
Adress:
Jan Rorye
Nordeinde 40
2611 KJ Delft
Holland
Phone 015-2145 217
Fax 015-2131 811
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 2:46 PM
Subject: Hardtop for BJ8
>
> Hi Team,
>
> I'm making an enquiry for a fellow Healey pilote here...
>
> He seeks a hardtop, factory style, for his BJ8. I know that some
> reproductions were made beginning in the mid-1980s, but I don't recall by
> whom. I never really followed the subject at the time, and for all I know
> maybe they are still being made.
>
> Any leads? Anybody got one for sale? I'll relay info. I have no personal
> interest, etc. Thanks.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/ (March calendar photo now posted)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Send a cool gift with your E-Card
> http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Heritage Trim Plus BN1 Needs
Further, do they have an Email address or a web site? I need to fully trim
out a BN1 in all original colors which will require some custom dyeing of
the Armacord in red, and all Armacord binding as well as all trim panels in
orange.
Further, I am in need of a set of signal flap style BN1 side curtains.
Anything workable will do as long as it's all there.
Rich Chrysler
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
> would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:41:11 EST
Subject: Re: Top frame support pieces
In a message dated 3/13/01 12:18:41 PM, HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
<<
Both the strap and the box are made of metal and are covered with vinyl the
same color as the interior. The lower box has a piece of wood inside of it to
form a base that has a piece of carpet glued to it. We have these available
new if you are looking for some. >>
Begging the pardon, and with all due respect, the metal "stirrup" strap is
covered with leather. It is done by putting glue on the leather and wrapping
it over the strap so that the front and back overlap under the bottom edge of
the strap. Then the leather is cut off close to the strap, but leaving about
a quarter-inch of overlapped material projecting at the bottom. The cup is
covered with vinyl, then has carpet fitted into the cup to cover the wood.
The cup is screwed to the floorboard, then the carpet on the floor is cut so
that it laps against the cup.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:53:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Got lots of Napa recommendations, so..
I think i got a case of 30W HD Valvoline
at Discount Auto Parts before Christmas on sale...........HoYo
Bill Katz wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded to my oil inquiry. Guess I'll give up on
> looking to match the Valvoline in there now and switch to Napa! Anyone know
> who makes their oil? (Never mind, don't want to start a new thread on that!)
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:53:09 EST
Subject: Re: Heritage Trim Plus BN1 Needs
Heritage Upholstery & Trim: US Office (360) 332-3022, fax (360)332-0984
Canadian Office (604)990-0346 Fax: (604) 990-9988
Website: www.heritagetrim.com
>From their ad in 2/01 Austin Healey Magazine
Rick
<<
Further, do they have an Email address or a web site?
Rich Chrysler
>
> Does anyone have the phone number for Heritage Trim readily available? I
> would appreciate it if someone could send it to me off list.
>
> Thank you in advance,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Tim Moran" <timoran at ticnet.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:32:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Ride with Fred Crowley
J. Scott,
Fred's clips were indeed neat !
While mine is not of the same caliber as his, I have a clip that you might
enjoy too.
Go to http://www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com/Photos/1Moran/MaxSound1.avi
Turn your sound UP, sit back and enjoy.
Tim Moran
***************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: Ride with Fred Crowley
>
> Lordy, Lordy, I'm in Heaven;
>
> I just discovered one bloody neat site and took two fantastic runs with
> Fred Crowley - Hell, I reran the clips over and over. The real downer
> is that I wish I had been at the track when he was there - somehow I
> missed this one. Both clips are at Mosport Park track just to the east
> of Toronto, Ontario. The first run is down the back straight and the
> sounds just curled the hair on the back of my neck - loved it. The
> second clip shows Fred taking a spin at corner 2. I must say he
> handled the car quite well and rejoined the race without missing a
> beat. But he is lucky he didn't do this a few years ago when the
> Armco was almost right up against the track - he wouldn't have been
> going much further. The other interesting thing about the second clip
> is the commentary when the lady shooting the film makes a comment
> something like "get your hands off me". Let your imagination roam but
> for what its worth, she doesn't flinch with the camera and continues
> panning for the entire spin - a great job. The movie clips use
> RealPlayer and can be found at http://www.teamhealeytexas.com The back
> straight is 1.6 Mbytes and the spin is 2.2 Mbytes. Just sit back,
> turn up the volume and enjjjjjjoy.
>
> --Scott Morris '62 BT7 tricarb driver & '60 BN7 project
> Simcoe, Ontario
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris
> Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 20:37:12 EST
Subject: Re: Heritage Trim Plus BN1 Needs
In a message dated 3/13/01 5:31:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
>
Hi Rich-
I'm not sure if this is duplication of a recent post or not as I have
received several duplicate Emails as others have been receiving.
But just in case it isn't, the web site is www.heritagetrim.com and their
Canadian phone in Vancouver, BC is (604)990-0346. Duty and Hassle free in
Canadian Funds.
M.S.Brantley, Jr.
BT7x2
BJ8
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Don Gschwind" <DGSCHWIND at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:10:31 -0500
Subject: Fw: Transmission mount adjustment
Subject: Transmission mount adjustment
> Hi,
> I'm poking around on my BJ8 and note the PO at some point had a
> slight contact between the standard 4 blade fan and the radiator. I
> don't know what caused it, but I'd like to minimize the risk of a
> bigger circle in the rad. fins. How do I know the positioning of the
> mount is correct? In the Moss catalogue, it appears that there is a
> fore and aft adjustment on the "tie rod". How do I know I have the
> proper compression of the bushings, and that the fore and aft
> positioning is correct? TIA
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:22:38 EST
Subject: Re: Ride with Fred Crowley
In a message dated 3/13/01 8:21:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
timoran@ticnet.com writes:
> Go to http://www.modifiedhealeys.austin1.com/Photos/1Moran/MaxSound1.avi
>
>
Hi Tim-
Sorry, but I was unable to access the web site. Do you have an alternate
avenue to the site.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:26:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
Hi Bill,
ND oil is becoming hard to find. The last case I bought, several months ago
was from Kragens Automotive; Flag SAE 30ND.
I checked with a couple or oil companies and was told that Valvoline, Napa
or Kendall makes it too.
You may have to order it from an auto parts store if Kragens does not have
Flag.
John
San Jose, CA (for the list)
'62 BT7 MK II (with only 275 miles since the last oil change)
BTW, I saw your post, Valvoline makes Napa
At 04:08 PM 3/12/01 -0800, Bill Katz wrote:
>I've been running around my area looking for non-detergent oil for my trans
>and so far found squat. Does anyone in the San Francisco, San Mateo, San
>Jose area know who stocks this stuff?
>
>PS any lister have a red/black Healey out on El Camino in San Mateo around
>2:30PM today?
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill Katz
>Bay Area, CA
>'67 BJ8
>'94 325is
>http://www.handsonresearch.com/healey
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 06:04:34 -0000
Subject: RE: Who sells SAE30 Non-detergent?
In UK, people who service trucks hold 30ND or know
where to get it. Maybe same in yr part of the World?
Simon
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 01:17:17 EST
Subject: Istalling Seat belts with shoulder belt.
I now only have a lap belt in my BN4. I'd like to put in a seat belt with a
shoulder belt too.
Q # 1. Is the two or three-point belt best in a Healey?
Q # 2. Does anyone know of a website that shows how to install them? Seems
like it would be more comfortable the higher one can anchor the sholder belt.
Any one got advice on mounting the shoulder belt anchorage other than on the
floor?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:27:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Non-Detergent Oil
Try a wholesale bulk plant such as 76, Mobil, Chevron. You won't find
non-detergent oils at normal retail stores. You are looking for an API
specification SA or SB motor oil. The SB will have a light anti-wear
(zinc) and anti-rust additives which are beneficial for storage periods
(ie: not driven every single day). The SA will be a straight
non-additive oil "straight mineral oil."
The old (pre-Tosco) Union 76 used to call SA Special Motor Oil and SB
Custom Motor Oil. Mobil makes an SB non-detergent oil that I used to
use to break in 911 Porsche engines.
There are probably Hydraulic 315 or 465 oils that would also work.
You'd need a savvy oil marketer to cross-reference properly though.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7) Visalia, California
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 01:27:32 EST
Subject: Fwd: Istalling Seat belts with shoulder belt.
Return-path: <JSoderling@aol.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
Full-name: JSoderling
Message-ID: <f5.8077704.27e066ed@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 01:17:17 EST
Subject: Istalling Seat belts with shoulder belt.
To: healeys@autox.team.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Disposition: Inline
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10502
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
I now only have a lap belt in my BN4. I'd like to put in a seat belt with a
shoulder belt too.
Q # 1. Is the two or three-point belt best in a Healey?
Q # 2. Does anyone know of a website that shows how to install them? Seems
like it would be more comfortable the higher one can anchor the sholder belt.
Any one got advice on mounting the shoulder belt anchorage other than on the
floor?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:41:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Transmission mount adjustment
> Subject: Transmission mount adjustment
>
>
> > Hi,
> > I'm poking around on my BJ8 and note the PO at some point had a
> > slight contact between the standard 4 blade fan and the radiator. I
> > don't know what caused it, but I'd like to minimize the risk of a
> > bigger circle in the rad. fins. How do I know the positioning of the
> > mount is correct? In the Moss catalogue, it appears that there is a
> > fore and aft adjustment on the "tie rod". How do I know I have the
> > proper compression of the bushings, and that the fore and aft
> > positioning is correct? TIA
> > DON
> > BJ8 Pandora
If the tie rod bushings are compressed equally against the frame member, and
the proper bacup flat washers are in place, this should be an adequate
clearance adjustment. Use the double nuts to lock them into position on the
stay rod.Also be sure the rad mounting position is as forward as possible to
provide the maximum clearance between blades and rad core.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:01:11 -0600
Subject: Wire Wheel Repair
Can anyone describe the proper procedure for replacing spokes on wire
wheels? I have a few broken spokes on my rear tires and thought of
replacing the spokes instead of buying new wheels. Thanks.
Steve
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From James A Baustian <jabaustian at networksplus.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:41:54 -0600
Subject: SAE 30 Non-detergent oil
Farm supply stores always carry non-detergent oil. They can be located in
the Yellow Pages under Farm Supplies.
Jim Baustian
BN1 AN8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:05:13 EST
Subject: Re: Istalling Seat belts with shoulder belt.
In a message dated 3/13/01 10:18:46 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< Q # 1. Is the two or three-point belt best in a Healey?
Q # 2. Does anyone know of a website that shows how to install them? Seems
like it would be more comfortable the higher one can anchor the sholder belt.
Any one got advice on mounting the shoulder belt anchorage other than on the
floor?
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red >>
My .02 dollars. A three-point belt is much better than a two-point and very
easy to mount. I think that most of them come with instructions, or the
vendor will give you the info needed (for example, British Car Specialists
offers both the retractable and standard belts and I'm sure David would tell
you how to put it in). All I did was drill a hole through the inner fender
well at shoulder height behind the seat, and support the back of the bolt
with the largest, thickest washer you can find. Since the tension on the
belt is sideways to the bolt and washer, it is quite secure. The only
problem I have is routing the shoulder belt when i have the soft-top tucked
behind the seat -- this isn't a problem on the 4-seater, but is on the two
seaters. You might want to decide onthe fastener location with the top
tucked in if you have one of the two-seaters.
Cheers
gary
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From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
Date: 14 Mar 2001 09:20:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Repair
Having purchased a set of made in India Dunlop 60 spokes 10 years ago, I can
give you the experience I have replacing broken spokes (about 36 so far).
Providing the nipple is not rusted onto the spoke, the long ones can be
replaced without dismounting the tire; the short ones on 60 spoke wheels have
the nipples in the wheel centre depression and are difficult to repair with the
tire on.
I have purchased Dunlop stainless spokes and nipples direct from Dayton
Wheels in Ohio. They are reasonably priced in quantity. (I have ordered 30 sets
of spokes and nipples each time)
Usually the spoke head has broken off in the wheel hub. This leaves the
spoke loose, but unable to turn. I cut the spoke in two with a bolt cutter and
unscrew the remaining spoke from the nipple, leaving the nipple in place.
Replacing the spoke requires some patience. You must be sure the spoke shaft is
properly positioned so that it heads directly toward the nipple. It is a tight
fit between other spokes. This may take some turning before it advances too far
and becomes too tight. The last portion may require a tap from a plastic head
hammer so that the spoke end just goes into the nipple thread. Then I just
tighten the spoke with a < wrench until it is firm.
With short spokes I use the same technique with the wheel off. I find
the short spoke difficult to line up with the nipple without pushing the nipple
into the tire cavity.
Wheel wobble has so far not been a problem.
Hope this helps.
Laurie Wilford
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:33:22 -0800
Subject: Calif. Owners - Smog Alert, new info on SB 800 and SB 1172
The recent report on the Healeys list from a representative of an
assemblyman that nothing had been submitted to them about repeal of
SB42 was correct, literally,
BUT, there are two bills in the California _Senate_ that would remove
that part of SB42 which would add exemption for 30 year old cars after
2003. Please see information about SB 800 and SB 1172. SB means
these bills have been originated in the Senate, so the Assembly floor
has not seen them, yet. Pretty slick, eh?
go to:
www.leginfo.ca.gov/bilinfo.html
and select "Current Session", "Senate", and enter either "800" or
"1172" in the Bill Number box. You can get a complete bill history,
report of current bill status, or get a html or pdf file of the text
of the bill. I believe there is a way to subscribe to receive weekly
updates on the progress of any bills you are interested in.
Do not let anyone tell you that nothing is being considered that would
repeal SB42. SB800 would add 1974 cars to the exempt list immediately
but then freeze the year models exempted at 1974 or earlier. SB1172
would simply remove any reference in law to a 30 year-old exemption
commencing in 2003.
I am indebted to Rick Feibusch for relaying information about SB 800
and SB 1172. The information was supplied by SEMA, Washington DC. I
checked the legislature's web site this morning to get the latest info
on the bills.
SEMA appears to believe that SB800 will be amended to remove the
repeal of SB42. I have no information on that either way. Both bills
have been introduced, printed, and given a first reading. SB800 has
been referred to the Senate Transportation Committee.
So maybe it isn't yet time to bug your representatives in the
Assembly, but it certainly is high time to contact your state senator
to urge opposition to these bills as submitted.
-Roland Wilhelmy
President, Austin Healey Club of San Diego
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:30:11 -0600
Subject: Late BJ8 Electronic Tachometer
I'm looking for a good late BJ8 electronic tach. Does anybody out there
have one available or have a lead on one?? I've already converted to
negative ground and I'm using PerTronix ignition. Thanks in advance!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:47:39 EST
Subject: Demon Lucas
When Mark bought his new computer, did someone require that he buy some
English brand with Lucas circuitry? Today I received back as undeliverable,
a message that I sent on August 14th of last year!
Cheers
gary
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 19:03:55 EST
Subject: Re: Demon Lucas
> Today I received back as undeliverable, a message
> that I sent on August 14th of last year!
I received two error messages today for the same date.
So on to my question of August 14, 2000. How does one go about getting a copy
of the tech index for Healey Highlights/ Austin Healey Magazine? Used to be
online but is a hardcopy available?
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 19:21:43 EST
Subject: Fwd: Austin Healey Aeroscreens
Return-Path: <vintage-race-owner@autox.team.net>
Received: from rly-xa03.mx.aol.com (rly-xa03.mail.aol.com
[172.20.105.72]) by air-xa04.mail.aol.com (v77_r1.21) with ESMTP; Wed,
14 Mar 2001 09:05:14 -0500
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(8.11.0/8.11.0) id f2EE3b211844 for vintage-race-actors; Wed, 14 Mar
2001 07:03:37 -0700 (MST)
Message-ID: <3AAF78A7.DD51F524@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:56:55 -0500
From: Phil Babcock <PHILLIPBABCOCK@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: The Dyno Shop Inc.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: "vintage-race@autox.team.net" <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Subject: Austin Healey Aeroscreens
Sender: owner-vintage-race@autox.team.net
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: Phil Babcock <PHILLIPBABCOCK@worldnet.att.net>
Just saw some original Austin Healey Aeroscreens on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=569670984
Usual disclaimer, no interest.
Phil
--
Phil Babcock
The Dyno Shop, Inc.
Air Fuel Ratio Meters - Laser Alignment Tools - Dynojet Chassis Dyno
Race Set up - Auto Restoration
http://www.thedynoshop.net
mailto:phillipbabcock@att.net
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 20:45:28 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Radio
If your radio is the tube type there is a guy here in the Hartford CT area who
works on radios and tvs with tubes. If interested contact me off line and I will
send his name and shop number to you.
Bill Pollock
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Nick,
>
> A good source is Hemmings Motor News. Look under Services and under that
> look under radio. A couple years ago I had a BMC radio repaired by
> Wilford Wilkes
> 101 Swoope St
> Brisbin, PA 16620
>
> Have not installed it yet but he assures me it works fine. I just enjoy the
> sound of the exhaust too much!
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > Does anybody know of anyone that can repair a 1965 BJ8 radio.
> >
> > At times it works then goes out.
> >
> > Any thoughts.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Nick Zarkades
> > 1965 BJ6
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From "Patrick QUINN" <QUINNP at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:36:13 +1100
Subject: Healey Trivia
G'day
I really can't let the occasion go past without a mention a little piece of
Healey trivia.
I don't know if it reached the news services right throughout the world but
last week Donald Campbell's jet powered world water speed boat 'Bluebird' was
raised from Coniston Water in Cumbria NW England.
Just on 32 years ago Campbell was endeavouring to better his previous water
speed record of 276mph. On his first run he managed 297mph and turned the boat
around and without refuelling or waiting for his wake to subside set off on the
second run. At just over 300mph the boat lifted nose first, flipped and
disintegrated. No trace was found of his body and until recently the boat was
also lost.
What's this got to do with Healeys?
The support boats for the attempts were two Healey Sportsboats of the initial
construction of timber clinker and marineised MG1500cc engines. There is an
interesting British movie of Donald Campbell and the tragedy starring Anthony
Hopkins in his pre Hannibal days.
For those who are interested have a look at:
http://website.lineone.net/~donaldcampbell/
There is no mention of the Healey Sportboats at this site.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 02:25:57 -0600
Subject: Worlds Fastest Healey
I had mentioned that My Pal Doug Odom and his Driver Gail Phillips had thier
Bugeye shipped to Austrailia to race at Lake Gairdner..... Well the car is
back in it's container and on it's way Home to the US.....
Gail ran a 260 cubic inch V8 and went 205 and change.... and Doug ran his
370 cubic inch motor and ran 220mph.... I have only had Brief conversations
with them so far but thought I would pass along the results....
Doug had invited me to come and drive but business obligations prevented the
trip..... BUMMER.... these are great folks..... thought some of you might
enjoy looking at the website below....
Keith
G'Day Guys,
I've just finished posting the first update for the 2001 Lake Gairdner Speed
Trials, you can check it out at http://www.geocities.com/dlra3/2001.htm
NOTE: all reports and results are provisional until further notice. But the
pictures and miles and miles of salt are all real!!
Keep the shiny side up! ,-._|\
Greg Wapling / Oz \
DLRA WebMaster \_,--._/
Dry Lakes Racers Australia v
82 Industrial Drive, Braeside, Victoria 3195 Australia
Phone (03) 9580 9809 Fax : 03 9580 9429
URL : http://www.vicnet.net.au/~dlra
E-Mail : drylakesracersau@hotmail.com
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 03:56:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: HH/AHMag Index (was "Demon Lucas")
On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 19:03:55 EST, Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
>> Today I received back as undeliverable, a message that I sent on August
14th of last year! I received two error messages today for the same date. So
on to my question of August 14, 2000. How does one go about getting a copy
of the tech index for Healey Highlights/ Austin Healey Magazine? <<
Hi Jim,
If you meant *British Car Magazine* (you sent your message to its editor),
then I'll have to let Gary respond, but assuming that you really did mean
Healey Highlights/Austin-Healey Magazine, a Back Issues Index is sent to
each new member. See: <http://www.healey.org/library.shtml>
Now then, if an existing (not-so-new) member would like an updated index,
just drop an e-mail to: <info@healey.org> with your request (specifically
state what you want and include your name and mailing address and statement
that you are a member; make it easy for the staff, please :-).
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at connect.comdek.net.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:56:40 +0800
Subject: Warning on painted wheels
Hi All
Just about finished the restoration of my BT7. Installed the new rims and
knockons onto the new hubs and took the car down for a licence inspection.
As part of the inspection process they jacked up the front wheels to check
the king pins. I thought "no trouble here as the king pins are new" but
they found that the rims were moving a lot on the hubs. Something that I
hadn't noticed myself and didn't feel through the steering on the drive down
the inspection post. Any way failed the first inspection.
On closer inspection of the rims at home in my garage I found that the rims
were not seating properly on the taper of the hub. The paint thickness on
the tapered face of the rims was very uneven and not allowing the two
tapered faces to seat correctly.
The solution was to carefully scrape the paint off the tapered face on the
rim. The rims now fit well with no movement on the hub and HALLELUIAH the
old girl is now road registered. Just a few items to tidy up in the trim
area and we are finished - for the moment. The hardtop can wait until
winter.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 finally there.
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:13:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Demon Lucas
Something's screwy with this list. I received the same, as well as a batch
of mail a few days ago that was about 10 days old. As usual whaen the fault
is actually found, it's not Lucas at all, but someone's had his fingers in
where they shouldn't have been and or not known what they were doing.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 6:47 PM
Subject: Demon Lucas
>
> When Mark bought his new computer, did someone require that he buy some
> English brand with Lucas circuitry? Today I received back as
undeliverable,
> a message that I sent on August 14th of last year!
>
> Cheers
> gary
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:02:30 -0500
Subject: Sidecurtain Rubber Rings.
Hi folks.
I purchased an old original set of side curtains for a BN1 yesterday. This
is the 2nd series with the hinged signal flap.
This set has a neat old rubber ring fitted onto each of the locator pegs
which would slot into the side curtain sockets. These can best be described
as a 1/4" section O ring, but which would have been sliced in half, giving
one flat side which would have slid onto the peg and seated against the
iron, the radiused side would be contacting the side curtain socket when the
screen is fully seayed in position.
I've never seen them before, but these things have an accurate manufactured
look to them. They've been there a long time, and have gone quite hard. A
great idea. Anybody ever seen these before?
Rich Chrysler
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From "JustBrits" <justbrits at mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:15:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Demon Lucas
<<but someone's had his fingers in
where they shouldn't have been and or not known what they were do>>
Actually guys, it has been learned that another ISP was involved and was/is
the cause. 3 year old ones on mgs list.
Best.
Ed
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 11:21:10 -0800
Subject: Source for Lucas T-shirts sought
Hello Listers,
Out at El Mirage dry lake I saw a BSA rider who had one of those Lucas
t-shirts with a big switch in the center with 3 positions: "Off", "Dim" and
"Flicker". Would any ideas on where to buy such a shirt.
Thanks in advance for any help.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
73 240Z
92 Q45
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 17:11:35 -0500
Subject: air cleaner
While taking my new 1957 Bn4 apart piece by piece I have two coopers air
cleaners PO 2235 the air cleaner body has a note on the bottomm stating
-For cleaning instructions refer to vehicle mfg.handbook. I don't have a
handbook, any help for cleaning would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks: Dennis Broughel
Bn-4
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From "Robin Bruno" <robin at breoventures.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 14:44:33 -0800
Subject: Tonneau Cover
Listers,
Our 100 tonneau cover is in great shape, however the zipper has gone bad.
Our auto upholstery guy can't locate a zipper to match, which he believes to
be a number 7 or 10, silver teeth on black back zipper. So far we've only
found brass teeth on black back zippers. We need approximately 3 feet of
zipper. The goal is to keep the Tonneau original looking.
Help how do we get the correct zipper color and style?
Robert Bruno
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:57:45 EST
Subject: Re: Source for Lucas T-shirts sought
Try triple-c.com for the Lucas shirt. If you like similar type shirts check
out <A HREF="http://www.driversroad.com/";>Driver's Road</A> .
Jim Werner
> Out at El Mirage dry lake I saw a BSA rider who
> had one of those Lucas t-shirts with a big switch in the center with 3
> positions: "Off", "Dim" and "Flicker". Would any ideas on where to buy such
>
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 19:05:32 EST
Subject: Re: air cleaner
Dennis,
The handbook says,
Air Cleaners Every 6000 miles the air cleaners should be removed, cleaned
and reoiled. Swill each cleaner in paraffin ( kerosene ), drain, immerse in
engine oil and again drain before refitting.
I hope this helps.
Jerry Anderson
BN4 1957 ( Longbridge built )
JH-5 1975
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 20:29:16 EST
Subject: Re: air cleaner
In a message dated 3/15/01 4:08:04 PM, JAnde63063@aol.com writes:
<< Air Cleaners Every 6000 miles the air cleaners should be removed,
cleaned
and reoiled. Swill each cleaner in paraffin ( kerosene ), drain, immerse in
engine oil and again drain before refitting.
I hope this helps. >>
In my hardware store the other day, I found a cleaning kit by J&N (think
those are the right initials; the performance air cleaner folks). It
included one container of stuff to soak the filter element in, and another
spray bottle of stuff to spray on the clean air cleaner. I wonder if these
products would be any good on our vintage oil bath filters?
Cheers
gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 22:52:05 EST
Subject: Brake pad question (100-S?)
I got this note and was curious if these may pads for a 100-S:
This box (actually I have two boxes of these) said Austin Healy 100/6 on the
box. Someone had written this. The contents are the strangest brake pads I've
ever seen. They are round pieces of friction material approx. 2.25 inches
across and 3/4 inch thick. There is no metal backing whatsoever. There are 4
of these in each box. Any idea what they fit?
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From Mike Blair <blimpie at digisys.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:13:47 -0700
Subject: B.S.F. fasteners
Can anyone suggest a source for B.S.F. fasteners.
TIA
Mike
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 15:08:53 +1000
Subject: Re: Brake pad question (100-S?)
I have a 100-6 fitted with 4 wheel disc brakes and these sound about the
right size pads, so could be as has been written on the box.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, 16 March 2001 1:52
Subject: Brake pad question (100-S?)
>
> I got this note and was curious if these may pads for a 100-S:
>
> This box (actually I have two boxes of these) said Austin Healy 100/6 on
the
> box. Someone had written this. The contents are the strangest brake pads
I've
> ever seen. They are round pieces of friction material approx. 2.25 inches
> across and 3/4 inch thick. There is no metal backing whatsoever. There are
4
> of these in each box. Any idea what they fit?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "Greg Monfort" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 00:33:45 -0500
Subject: Re: air cleaner
It's K&N. I always just use kerosene to clean my
K&Ns, but I use, and when this came up recently, I
highly recommended their spray coating over motor
oil.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> In my hardware store the other day, I found a
cleaning kit by J&N (think
> those are the right initials; the performance air
cleaner folks). It
> included one container of stuff to soak the filter
element in, and another
> spray bottle of stuff to spray on the clean air
cleaner. I wonder if these
> products would be any good on our vintage oil bath
filters?
>
> Cheers
> gary
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 09:45:12 EST
Subject: Re: [Concours_Registry] Sidecurtain Rubber Rings.
In a message dated 03/15/2001 8:07:45 AM Mountain Standard Time,
rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca writes:
<<
I've never seen them before, but these things have an accurate manufactured
look to them. They've been there a long time, and have gone quite hard. A
great idea. Anybody ever seen these before? >>
It's good to see that these parts existed. For decades I have used a smaller
crossection O-ring (about 1/16") around each of my side curtain pegs. These
serve to keep the steel of the peg bracket from marring the top of the chrome
socket. Never new it was "original".
This item only further proves mly contention that the strange or unusual
parts we find on these cars almost always were put there for an "engineering"
reason. Thus, if one can understand the thinking of designers and engineers
on such things as durability, safety, compatibility, etc., you will more
often than not come up with the same conclusion that they did and use the
same parts. Sometimes the assembly line folks were careless and left off a
washer that ought to be there from an engineering point of view (and also is
called out in the parts book). This only adds confusion to those trying to
sort out "how it was", or "should have been".
Here is one puzzle along this line that I'd appreciate input on. The boot
lid stay bracket on the 100s is attached to the LR wheel arch using two
bolts. The parts book calls for two flat washers and one nut per bolt (these
are nyloc nuts and because the bracket compresses armacord, spring washers
would be of littel value here). Since the bolts pass through thin sheet
steel of the wheel arch, engineering practise would be expected to call for
one washer under the bolt head and the other under the nut. One original car
was found with two flat washers under the nut and none under the bolt head.
Another original car had one flat washer under the nut and again none under
the bolt head. On the one car did the workers use the correct number of
waqshers but not care where they went? Ont he other did they just leave off
the second wsher? And a third person (a trusted restorer) says that he has
often sen wshers under the bolt heads as well as nuts -- the way I would
expect it should be done.
Has anyone seen an original installation and can possibly offer more info.
This is a personal request, but among our group are folks who likely could
help.
Roger
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From fred.scheuble at triaton-na.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 09:52:53 -0500
Subject: remove
remove fjschueble@hiserv-na.com and fred.schueble@triaton-na.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Dzwig [mailto:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:08 AM
To: Brian Mix
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Brian,
try Autostorica (aka GrandPrix Raceware) at http://www.autostorica.com/ who
have
a large selection of period helmets. If you have any problems please contact
me
off line.
Peter Dzwig
BN4
Brian Mix wrote:
> You know those cool helmets you see the vintage racers wearing in all the
old
> photo's. The plastic half-helmet with the leather ear flaps. Does anybody
> reproduce those new?
>
> Brian
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From fred.scheuble at triaton-na.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 09:53:03 -0500
Subject: remove
remove fjschueble@hiserv-na.com and fred.schueble@triaton-na.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Carlos Cruz [mailto:ahrdstr@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:24 AM
To: pdzwig@summaventures.com; brianmix@home.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
Brian,
I just left Holden's web site - WHOA! They have a full line of vintage
racing, touring and ralley apparel. Check them out at www.holden.co.uk
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
>From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
>Reply-To: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
>To: Brian Mix <brianmix@home.com>
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: looking for Vintage style Racing Helmet
>Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:08:01 +0000
>
>Brian,
>
>try Autostorica (aka GrandPrix Raceware) at http://www.autostorica.com/ who
>have
>a large selection of period helmets. If you have any problems please
>contact me
>off line.
>
>Peter Dzwig
>BN4
>
>Brian Mix wrote:
>
> > You know those cool helmets you see the vintage racers wearing in all
>the old
> > photo's. The plastic half-helmet with the leather ear flaps. Does
>anybody
> > reproduce those new?
> >
> > Brian
_________________________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:30:19 EST
Subject: Re: B.S.F. fasteners
In a message dated 3/15/01 8:16:54 PM, blimpie@digisys.net writes:
<< Can anyone suggest a source for B.S.F. fasteners.
TIA >>
Very good source is British Tools and Fasteners, owned by Phillip Brown, 2030
Andre Ave, Los Osos, CA 93402 805-528-0418.
If you call, tell him British Car Magazine referred you -- they are an old
advertiser who I'm pleased to say is coming back into our magazine. Their
big customers are manufacturers who have older British-made manufacturing
equipment in their factories that require the old-spec fasteners and tools,
but he supplies the British car hobby almost as an aside to his main business.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car magazine
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 10:17:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Frogeye Car Company
Could someone please tell me if Keith Brading's "Frogeye Car Company" on the
Isle of Wight is still a going operation? If so, contact information would
be appreciated. If not, I'd be curious to know whatever happened to it.
Thanks very much.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 12:29:17 -0800
Subject: Bullit healey liscense plate number
California SED 699. Not mine.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
///
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 13:28:52 -0800
Subject: Your personalized plates?
Just a Friday whimsical diversion. My old MGA club newsletter has a monthly
feature where they shoot pics of A-related personalized plates. Thought it
might be fun to hear from the Healey list some of your own plates or
favorites spotted:
I'll go first. My current Calif. plate: 66MKIII. The new plate on order
with DMV that will replace that one is 1966BJ8. Nothing cute, just the facts
so people won't keep asking "cool car, what year is it?"
Anyone else?
Coop
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 16:54:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
Coop1 wrote:
>
>hi guys-
i've had the texas personalized tag 100-SIX since 1978.
happy healeying,
jerry
> Just a Friday whimsical diversion. My old MGA club newsletter has a monthly
> feature where they shoot pics of A-related personalized plates. Thought it
> might be fun to hear from the Healey list some of your own plates or
> favorites spotted:
>
> I'll go first. My current Calif. plate: 66MKIII. The new plate on order
> with DMV that will replace that one is 1966BJ8. Nothing cute, just the facts
> so people won't keep asking "cool car, what year is it?"
> Anyone else?
> Coop
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:26:51 -0500
Subject: Loco in la cabeza.
I'm 55 and have a sudden fierce attraction to Harley Davidsons.
Jim Dalglish
1960BT7
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:45:24 -0500
Subject: printed fabric
Does anyone know of a source for printed fabric with picutres of
Healeys. I am speaking of cotton fabric. My wife would like to know.
Bill Pollock
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 19:01:51 EST
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
I have 2 Healeys with Ilinois plates:
!958 BN 6 Has a plate that says: ITZA BN 6
1963 BJ 7 Has a plate that says: ITZA BJ 7
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 16:15:45 -0800
Subject: plates
California 3000MK3
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:26:47 -0600
Subject: Re: printed fabric
Bill Pollock wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a source for printed fabric with picutres of
> Healeys. I am speaking of cotton fabric. My wife would like to know.
>
> Bill Pollock
> hi bill-
is this for use as sheets, curtains, pajamas or a dress for the frau ? would
you prefer cars or DMH, geoff, bic or john ?
happy hunting,
jerry
>
> /
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 19:39:28 EST
Subject: Personalized Plates
57AH100.6
It says it all!
Rudy Streng
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 19:56:19 -0500
Subject: Paging Jim Cox
STBTL......
Jim Cox of Tappahannock, contact me please.
Thanks.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:15:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
My BJ8 has spent its entire 35-year life in the Tar Heel State, so the plate
reads TARHEELY. I have a BJ7 that I hope someday to return to the road, and
I already have its plate picked out, courtesy of Amy Turner: HEALEYUM.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 TARHEELY
HBJ7L/20111 HEALEYUM
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 16, 2001 4:47 PM
Subject: Your personalized plates?
>
>Just a Friday whimsical diversion. My old MGA club newsletter has a
monthly
>feature where they shoot pics of A-related personalized plates. Thought it
>might be fun to hear from the Healey list some of your own plates or
>favorites spotted:
>
>I'll go first. My current Calif. plate: 66MKIII. The new plate on order
>with DMV that will replace that one is 1966BJ8. Nothing cute, just the
facts
>so people won't keep asking "cool car, what year is it?"
>Anyone else?
>Coop
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:34:23 -0500
Subject: plates
I have
AH BJ7 and BJ8 AH both Ontario plates, cheers.....Bob.
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:15:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: zippers
Just a guess , this company Solo Zipper, Foxboro, Mass. has a lot of stuff. I
don't have a tel# for them. They also have the tool to attach the push down
snaps as well as awls, needles, etc. Good luck.
Yahoo! Mail Personal Address - Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 22:39:02 -0500
Subject: Re: plates
Ontario 100S ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
> California 3000MK3
>
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:14:59 -0800
Subject: 6-cyl oil pan/sump needed
Anyone out there have a decent non-pranged oil pan, aka sump, for a
six-cylinder Healey engine?
Thanks...Andy
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:29:45 -0800
Subject: fuel line clips
Listers,
OK, what's the trick (besides patience). Is there a trick to
installing the hairpin style clips that hold the fuel (and brake)
lines? When I try pushing them into the hole with the fuel line they
tend to collapse and distort and won't hold. When I push them in
without the fuel line and then try to push the fuel line into the
clip, I can't get the line into the clip.
Help, as always, is greatly appreciated,
Mark Fawcett
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 00:39:11 EST
Subject: Re: Installing Seat belts - Invitation
Jerry,
Thanks for the invitation and maybe very timely. I am coming up to Granite
Bay tomorrow morning for the weekend. Unfortunately it will not be with
Erika as I am continuing on up to do some skiing on Monday.
You will probably not see this email until before we leave Walnut Creek
tomorrow morning, so I'll give you a call when I get up there to see if you
will be around this week end and if it would be O.K. to come over and see you
car and seat belt installation. This would be great as I have an appointment
at British Car Specialists in Stockton later in the week to have some things
done. I plan on looking at the belts they sell and possibly purchasing a set
while I'm there.
Would love to see and talk to you about how you mounted them.
I have your phone and address from the AHCA rooster.
Thanks.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "R. Markl/B. Council" <rmarkl at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 00:57:58 -0600
Subject: plates
HEALEY (Louisiana). Not very imaginative, but it cuts down on the
number of people who pull up and say that's a nice looking MG!
Happy St. Patrick's Day
Rudi Markl
100M
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rmarkl.vcf]
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:11:11 -0800
Subject: Re: plates
30YRDRM was taken, so my rear plate reads L867BJ8
--------------------
At 04:15 PM 3/16/2001, you wrote:
>California 3000MK3
>
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:05:50 -0800
Subject: Hood (bonnet) installation
Stumped again. This time fitting the hood (cover for the motor!). It fit
before I bolted it to the "hinges", but now it looks like it is for some
other car. Is there a trick to aligning this thing?
TIA
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 06:53:06 EST
Subject: Re: Personalized Plates
MG NOT
Stole the idea from Brian Thornton whose plate is IMNOMG.
Thanks Brian.
Had an MGB pass me on the highway and give me the finger.
george marinos
62Sprite HAN6
NJ
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:07:51 -0500
Subject: New Healey
It had to happen!!
http://www.minimania.ca/ArticleV.cfm?DisplayID=1088&SCatagory=Factory&DisplayType=News
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:10:39 EST
Subject: Plates
For my Silverstone... FUN 50 (I could not get Healey, and Silverstone would
not fit)
For the car trailer.. 4 Healeys
Bill Emerson
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:25:40 -0500
Subject: P plates
I love Zinfandel soooooooooo
Jim D
60 BT7 ZINFAN
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From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:32:22 -0500
Subject: Re: New Healey
the proposed new Healey looks great (I think). Anybody have a larger picture?
Bob Denton
my license plate is Michigan TEQUILA, but it's on my little Eyetalian 308GTSi
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From Tom Mitchell <irishman1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:56:20 -0500
Subject: Your personalized plates?
>I have Michigan 3000MK3 on my phase 2 1965 BJ8
>
>Tom Mitchell
>Ann Arbor, Michigan
>Email: tommitchell@mediaone.net
>
>The Essence of a New Day
>This is the beginning of a new day. You have been given this day to use as
>you will. You can waste it or use it for good. What you do today is
>important because you are exchanging a day of your life for it. When
>tomorrow comes, this day will be gone forever; in its place is something
>that you have left behind . . . let it be something good. -- Anonymous
>
>
>
>
>At 01:28 PM 3/16/01 -0800, you wrote:
>
>>Just a Friday whimsical diversion. My old MGA club newsletter has a monthly
>>feature where they shoot pics of A-related personalized plates. Thought it
>>might be fun to hear from the Healey list some of your own plates or
>>favorites spotted:
>>
>>I'll go first. My current Calif. plate: 66MKIII. The new plate on order
>>with DMV that will replace that one is 1966BJ8. Nothing cute, just the facts
>>so people won't keep asking "cool car, what year is it?"
>>Anyone else?
>>Coop
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From CCCRacing at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:06:45 EST
Subject: remove cccracing@aol.com
remove cccracing@aol.com
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:00:07 -0500
Subject: old messages
Is something wrong with my healeylist connection. Why am I getting old
messages and the disclaimer at the end of each message posted by others
on the list? Just picked up a message I had posted about 6 months or
so ago.
Bill Pollock
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From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:01:18 -0500
Subject: license plate
o!healey is my plate. That's for all those "what kinda of car is that?"
Even last week when I was pulled over for 58 in a 45 speed zone, the
officer took for ever coming to the car. When I asked him why, he stated
he had trouble calling in the model of the car. He didn't know what kind
it was!! (even though he called the plate in) ha!ha! O!HEALEY is on my
bj8 in the beautiful mountains of North Carolina. You'll all come see
me.
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From "Ron Schonscheck" <schonny at y2consult.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:19:16 -0700
Subject: license plate
I'm am selling my 66 phase lll BJ8. You can email me for details off list.
Thanks
Ron Schonscheck
Professional Consulting Services
PCS@y2consult.com
www.y2consult.com
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From "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virginnet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 16:26:43 -0000
Subject: 3000 MkIs as Police cars
I sent in an article on this topic around Christmas 2000.
In brief it was about a period when there was a pair of 3000s
used by the local police in Cullompton, Devon, UK.
Someone, Hutch perhaps, wrote a follow-up article which I
reproduce, below. [ brackets ] are mine.
QUOTE
Perhaps the first thing to note about the purchase by the Devon
Constabulary of the two Austin Healey 3000, was that, at that
time,
the Traffic Department was smaller and worked on the princilple
of two men to a specific car and ,when the men were off duty,
then
the car remained in the garage. Although not the most efficient
use of a resource, it did mean that the men, who were responsible
for the washing and cleaning of the car, could be held
responsible
for tyre wear, mpg, scratches etc.
[What a set of priorities! I doubt if they would have recognized
a "resource" if it shook them by the hand!!]
Aubrey Slade and I went to Abingdon by train carrying Trade
Plates.
This caused interest amongst regular car drivers who could not
identify us as being regular delivery drivers. They accepted our
explanation with some reservation.
[It says something for the times that an explanation was thought
necessary, let alone proffered. Also, remember how SMALL UK is
and
that it made some sense to drive an individual car to point of
sale]
When we arrived at the works there was some difficulty in finding
the two Austin Healeys. Eventually they were found in the far
corner of a huge hanger-like building. They were covered in a
coating
of dust. Two men were detailed to clean them. Without any washing
down, one of the men took a tin of cleaner and, in one move, put
a
demarcation line running from the front bumper, across the
bonnet, over the roof and down on to the boot. Each man then
cleaned his half and his half alone. These actions showed
industrial
working practises at that time and the scant regard the workers
had for even a quality car.
[This was before Mrs.Thatcher had all dissident workers[?] shot].
On the boot of these cars there was an emblem - orange in colour
with the words "Rome-Liege-Rome". (I cannot remember if it had a
date) to signify the winning by Austin Healey of that rally.
Members of the public interested in Motor Sport would comment
and ask if that was the particular car and if we had been the
drivers. Our answers were invariably vague.
I believe a certified tachometer, used for speed checking, was
fitted at HQ. In the days before speed restrictions, on the
open road, I once clocked 117 mph on the Rockbeare Straight on
the
A30, the fastest I ever drove the car.
[This bit of road was incoporated into the then new A30 and, as
a dual carriageway, was strictly controlled. Life marches on and
this bit of road has itself become bypassed by an even bigger
road.
It is one of the very few dual carriageway "B" roads in UK.As
such, it is an admirable place to test out engine tweaking and
tuning.
I confess to having had my own MkII up to similar speeds on same
section.
Actually, it is quite strange....big wide road with nothing on
it, yet - about 100 yds away - is the new road which is usually
quite
busy].
Ut was not very practical for police work. There was no place for
police
signs ()although I think it was fitted with a bell). It could
only carry
one prisoner, was not suitable for escorting abnormal roads or
Judge's
Escort ( a thing of the past). Originally it was thought it would
be useful for
checking the speeds of "ton-up" boys on the Bovey Tracey straight
(a poblem
at that ime) but, in the event, it turned out to be
impracticable.
Once, whilst approaching the Honiton built up area, I came up
behind a Daimler Dart doing about 40mph plus. [30 mpph max
permitted].
I tucked in behind him and he started to accelerate away. I
followed him through the area touching speeds of almost 60 mph.
Outside the area I stopped him. As I walked back to his car, he
got out and said "I thought you wee another sports-car driver
looking fora dust-up". [Fair comment].
I drove the Austin Healey until January 1963 when I was promoted
to
Sergeant on traffic at Newton Abbot where I had a Vauxhall "rust
bucket" Victor.
UNQUOTE
Your's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House,
Bradninch,
Devon. EX5 4NN.
UK.
Tel: 01392-882248.
email: simon.lachlan@virginnet.co.uk
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From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:36:20 -0500
Subject: plates
BN2BWILD
Graham
56 BN2
82 GS850
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:47:06 -0800
Subject: Need a roof installer in So. CAL
I'll be ordering a new top for my 100 next week (when I pick a place), and I'm
wondering if anyone can recommend a good installer that might have some
experience with Healeys?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
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From MegCC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:58:53 EST
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
Have AH 53 for my BN1 and AH 67 for the BJ8 both New Jersey. Also have
73 XKE for my V12.
Joe
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 15:54:49 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message dated 3/17/01 5:07:18 AM, magicare@home.com writes:
It had to happen.>>
One way of finding out whether this project is alive or stillborn at the
start will be to ask Margot Healey this summer at the Oregon meet whether the
family has approved BMW's use of the Healey name for the new car. BMW owns
the rights to Austin, but not to Healey. (The Healey name reverted to the
family when British Leyland discontinued their contract in 1968. That's why
there was a "Sprite" being sold for awhile without the Healey name on it.) My
understanding is that Geoff spent a lot of time and effort assuring that the
family continued to control the use of its name, and Margot and her daughters
carry on the fight.
On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready for
a $75,000 Healey?
Cheers
Gary
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 16:07:43 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message dated 3/17/01 3:57:04 PM, Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<<On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready
for
a $75,000 Healey?
Cheers
Gary>>
Gary,
We should be so lucky! I understood the BMW Healey was going to be BMW Z8
based, which boasts a sticker price of over $100k. Actual sales prices have
been around $200k, if you can find one. I've seen three of them up close
(Lime Rock, Castle Hill) and they are beautiful and would be a fitting basis
for a new Healey. Didn't DMH Co. sell BMWs at the Castle after the demise of
the Big Healey and JH?
Rick
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 16:10:12 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message dated 3/17/01 4:07:43 PM, HealeyRic2 writes:
<<
<<On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready
for
a $75,000 Healey?
>>
Depressing thought, that. I couldn't afford a new Healey when they were new
and if they're new again, I still won't be able to afford one. :-(
Rick
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From "Lawrence S. Young" <lsyoung at primushost.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 16:31:02 -0500
Subject: Re: New Healey
> On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready for
> a $75,000 Healey?
>
Yes, though a $40,000.00 NEW healey is probably reasonable. I guess
if we figured the cost of a healey in today's dollars ( when compared to
50's, 60's) the price would probably be the same as the BMW roadster and
NOT a Miata (which possibly would compare to an MG).
My .02 worth
Larry Young
Boston
Plate "Heley" the A was not available
'67 BJ8 colorado red
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 16:41:53 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message dated 3/17/01 5:38:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lsyoung@primushost.com writes:
<< On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready
for
> a $75,000 Healey? >>
IMHO, calling it a Healey does not make it a Healey, no matter the price.
Michael Oritt, BN1
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From JBrown5093 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:03:57 EST
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
N.Y.plates 3000-BJ8 and 3000-BT7 Jim Brown Syracuse, NY
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From "Bob Judd" <bobjudd at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 17:32:1 -0800
Subject: RE: 3000 MkIs as Police cars
I think there was a time, in the late 1960's, when John Gott, "the racing
constable" persuaded the Northamptonshire police to buy a few Healeys to patrol
the new M1 London to Birmingham motorway. John, who was, as I recall,
chief constable of the Northamptonshire constabulatory, raced his own Healey at
Silverstone. Bob Judd BN2-V8.
----- Original Message -----
From: Simon Lachlan
To: Healeys
Sent: 3/17/01 8:26:43 AM
Subject: 3000 MkIs as Police cars
--- bobjudd@earthlink.net
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From JXLmail at aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:45:00 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
All,
Any photos ?
Jim L.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:46:22 -0800
Subject: Re: New Healey
Gary Anderson wrote:
> On the other hand, even if BMW has worked out a deal, is the world ready for
> a $75,000 Healey?
Sometimes it feels like I've GOT that much in mine!
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. bspidell@ravisentsj.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
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From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 21:35:15 -0800
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message from David Ward, The NEW Austin Healey, on 3/11/01. He
referred us to www.bighealey.ltd.uk. The link is on the right. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JXLmail@aol.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: New Healey
>
> All,
>
> Any photos ?
>
> Jim L.
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:50:28 -0000
Subject: New Austin Healey
Gentlemen, I have no idea what-so-ever where the price of $75000 for this new
automobile came from , perhaps it is pure speculation.
The costing structure that I have heard is in the vicinity of $30000 to $38000
US.
Looking at the concept I think that it would be absolutely ideal for
everyones Mother-In-Law to go shopping in!!!.
Yours.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
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From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 05:58:24 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: Personalized Plates
Illinois plate on our BT7...AH MK1. Used to be AHEAL 60.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type Image/gif]
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From rfrommcpa at juno.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:10:17 -0500
Subject: Personalized Plate
Greetings,
Regarding custom plates, my license plate in Virginia, USA was "66AH3K" .
There are not enough spaces to spell out 3000 so I used metric K. Very
similar to lister COOP1's California plate.
My VA plate has expired and I am relocating my BJ8 to Naples, Florida in
April so we will see what I can obtain as a Florida plate.
PS-I understand there are several listers in Naples, Fl. Please contact
me off list. Like to meet.
Happy Motoring,
Rob Fromm
941-592-6269
rfrommcpa@juno.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:52:16 EST
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
Why all the interst in a new "Healey"????
Any such car would have no connection or heritage to the cars we know and
love. Like the resurrected Bugatti a few years back, other than the name,
what tied it to its famous past?
The Corvette has had a continual evolution form 1953 to present, and though a
totally different car engineering-wise, it does have a continuity of
tradition. But taking an extinct marque and just slapping the name on a new
piece of machinery leaves me totally cold. A curiosity, yes. But I'd want
nothing to do with the car and wouldn't feel it should belong in our clubs or
our shows. It would be just like an "alien" showing up at a class reunion.
The more talk and excitement Healey owners show, the more the concept gains
publicity. Rather to let it die an unmarked death.
Roger
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:25:47 -0500
Subject: Still loco
I got a half dozen replies to my sudden weakness for Harley Davidsons.
Four Americans thought an english bike would be more appropriate,
interesting.
One Canadian and one Australian said they already did it, even more
interesting.
Jim D
1960BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:44:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Need a roof installer in So. CAL
Brian,
I have some leftover new studs and fasteners of various sorts for sale
cheap. Let me know if I can help. Just finished installing the top on the
BN7 this week.
Keith Pennell
> I'll be ordering a new top for my 100 next week (when I pick a place), and
I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good installer that might have some
experience with Healeys?
>
>
> Brian Mix
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:47:44 -0500
Subject: Re: New Healey
> Yes, though a $40,000.00 NEW healey is probably reasonable. I guess
> if we figured the cost of a healey in today's dollars ( when compared to
> 50's, 60's) the price would probably be the same as the BMW roadster and
> NOT a Miata (which possibly would compare to an MG).
>
> My .02 worth
>
> Larry Young
Good analogy.
Keith Pennell
With AH taste on a MG budget
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From PRafe at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 12:15:18 EST
Subject: Re: plates
My BJ-8 's plate is 008
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:20:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Still loco
James B Dalglish wrote:
> I got a half dozen replies to my sudden weakness for Harley Davidsons.
>
> Four Americans thought an english bike would be more appropriate,
> interesting.
>
> One Canadian and one Australian said they already did it, even more
> interesting.
Well, Jim, it would depend on why you want one. Are you having a mid-life
crisis or did you used to ride and haven't for a lot of years? Either way, I'd
have to opine that you probably need one!
My first Harley was a new '65 Sportster. Over the years I had a succession
of Harleys and other assorted Oriental iron. Fast forward to marriage, etc.
When my older boy was approaching driving age in 1992, I decided that the street
bikes had to go. Kids and street bikes are a dangerous combination.
Twenty-five
years on a large police department will condition that type of thinking.
Anyway,
in December, 1999, when the younger boy was 20, I decided that it was time to
get back into street bikes. Off to the Harley dealer I went and came home w/ a
Heritage Softail. Late last year, I got an '01 Road King Classic and it's been
great.
The boys (23 and 21) and I still ride dirt bikes but they are lots faster
than I but we still have a good time. Anything I can do to keep an eye on them
is pretty good, I think. I need to keep them out of my beer, however.
If your story is a mid-life crisis, as opposed to "I used to ride until the
kids came along" then that's OK too. You'd hate to end up 72 years old and
sorry
you never did it. If you have the means and an understanding wife, then I'd say
go for it. Regardless, of the reason, any dealer or brand will fix you up w/
rider safety courses. I would strongly recommend them. They have beginner
courses (w/ bikes provided) and refresher courses for we old guys. Soapbox
mode-regardless of your state laws, a helmet is the smart thing to do.
That's my input and it may not even be worth the .02. Toys are great if
they
have 2 wheels or 4. I'll send you a picture of the new one if you need a little
push!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:23:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
Coop1 wrote:
> Just a Friday whimsical diversion. My old MGA club newsletter has a monthly
> feature where they shoot pics of A-related personalized plates. Thought it
> might be fun to hear from the Healey list some of your own plates or
> favorites spotted:
>
> I'll go first. My current Calif. plate: 66MKIII. The new plate on order
> with DMV that will replace that one is 1966BJ8. Nothing cute, just the facts
> so people won't keep asking "cool car, what year is it?"
> Anyone else?
> Coop
'67 BJ8 "MY-BJ8"
'01 Harley "HRD-LYF"
'00 Golden Retriever (no personalized tag)
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 13:52:15 EST
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
I have 4 "toys" with personalized plates:
1957 RHD Austin Healey 100-6 - "BN4" 1966 Mustang GT - "PFS GT"
1964 RHD Jaguar MK2 3.4 - "MK2" 1966 Mustang Convertible
"MSTANG"
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:47:18 EST
Subject: Re: New Healey
In a message dated 3/17/01 2:38:15 PM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
<< Gentlemen I think that you are all missing the point here. BMW do in-fact
totally own the exclusive rights to the name Austin Healey, as they also do
for Riley >>
'fraid not. The Healey family retained ownership to the use of their name
from beginning to end, and still own it. When BMW acquired the Rover Group,
it did get rights to all the names that British Leyland had owned (it gave up
the MG and Rover names recently when it ceded rights to the Rover company to
the investors who created the MG Rover Group. However, since British Leyland
didn't own the rights to the Healey name, they can't manufacture and sell
anything with the name "Healey on it, even if it's called "Austin-Healey"
without making some sort of deal with the Healey family (of course, they
might recently have done so before making the announcement).
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:53:31 EST
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
In a message dated 3/18/01 3:53:32 AM, david@bighealey.ltd.uk writes:
<<
Gentlemen, I have no idea what-so-ever where the price of $75000 for this new
automobile came from , perhaps it is pure speculation.
The costing structure that I have heard is in the vicinity of $30000 to $38000
US. >>
I suspect any price is pure speculation right now, but if they were to market
the "new Healey at that price, they'd be competing directly against their own
Z3. On the other hand, they're not going to go over $100,000 because that's
the territory of their new car. So the slot that's available to them is
between $40,000 and $100,000. That's why motoring writers here are guessing
that IF there was to be a Healey, then it woul be somewhere in that slot.
Worth noting that such a car would be at least four years away -- the Jaguar
F-Type has just been approved for production, with the conceptual design
already done, and it won't be out for three years. Don't forget how long it
took them to get the MIni out.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 15:00:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
Personalized plates are fine if that makes you happy.
Mine are nothing special. The BJ8 and the BN7 are 67 and 60 vintage plates.
I did consider the plate BEIN 7 a while for the BN7. I love the double
meaning! You are free to use that (unless you live in VA - I still may go
to it some day) with no royalty owed .
But the real reason I write is no AH or 3000 or 3K or HEALEY or Mk anything
is going to tell anyone about the identity of your car. You and I only
understand them because we know the cars! To them it is still a MG! :)
These personalized plates are, as I said earlier, to just make us happy.
Just rambling thoughts.
Keith Pennell
>
> I have 4 "toys" with personalized plates:
>
> 1957 RHD Austin Healey 100-6 - "BN4" 1966 Mustang GT - "PFS GT"
> 1964 RHD Jaguar MK2 3.4 - "MK2" 1966 Mustang Convertible
> "MSTANG"
>
> Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 13:18:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: New Austin-Healey
Let's not forget that this is hardly the first instance of rumors of "a new
Austin-Healey." These stories seem to pop up every five years or so,
complete with some "artist's conception" of what it might look like
(although admittedly this time there is a photo of a design study), but I
have come to regard these reports as little better than Loch Ness "monster"
sightings... I'll believe it when I see it, and until then it's just another
fairy tale in my book.
By the way, I have it on excellent authority that within the recent past
(say, within the past two years) BMW made a substantial offer to members of
the Healey family for the rights to the name Healey, and they were turned
down. It is unlikely they will try again. As time goes on and the public's
collective memory of cars named Healey continues to fade, the value of the
name erodes. Sad but true, time is not on the side of those holding title
to the name.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 13:25:58 -0800
Subject: Re: plates
I made a long list of possible personalized plates for my BJ7. Here are some of
the fun ones:
OILLEAK
EXBRIT
CONVDWN
AHFUN
AUSTN3K
LOWGO
2BDRVN
SUVBUMP
B4SUVS
WIREWLS
4NCAR
OVERDRV
I ended up with a more conservative choice...AUSTINH (and surprised that it was
still avail. in California.)
Cheers,
John
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From "Alan J. Toepfer" <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 22:28:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
My plate reads 59#3000, where the # is the New Mexico Zia sun symbol.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:39:44 -0500
Subject: Girling Booster
OK... I've now discovered that I have a MK2B Girling booster, it
apparently was fitted on some of the later BJ8's and I've got a
late one.
Question: Does anyone know where to get a repair kit for the
Mk2B?... (I tried Vicky Brit, they used to have a kit for the
Mk2B, in fact it was the suggestion to look at the VB catalog
that let me discover that I indeed had a Mk2B Girling.
However, they don't sell that kit anymore. At least the
operator on Saturday was unable to discover the repair kit.
Whenever she entered the number for the Mk2B, the system
responded to her with the repair kit for the "other" Girling)...
If anyone knows on what other cars the Girling Mk2B was used,
perhaps I can find it from some other supply avenue???... Just
hoping...
Thanks in advance
-Skip-
tfsbj7@mindspring.com
tfs@mitre.org
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:06:39 -0600
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
i certainly agree with roger. simply using a name from the past to try and
promote a present day endeavor has no basis in accomplishment or purpose. the
austin-healey has its own heritage and achievement from a time in the past
which will never again be.
Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Why all the interst in a new "Healey"????
>
> Any such car would have no connection or heritage to the cars we know and
> love. Like the resurrected Bugatti a few years back, other than the name,
> what tied it to its famous past?
>
> The Corvette has had a continual evolution form 1953 to present, and though a
> totally different car engineering-wise, it does have a continuity of
> tradition. But taking an extinct marque and just slapping the name on a new
> piece of machinery leaves me totally cold. A curiosity, yes. But I'd want
> nothing to do with the car and wouldn't feel it should belong in our clubs or
> our shows. It would be just like an "alien" showing up at a class reunion.
> The more talk and excitement Healey owners show, the more the concept gains
> publicity. Rather to let it die an unmarked death.
>
> Roger
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:09:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Still loco
i also own '68 BSA THUNDERBOLT
James B Dalglish wrote:
>
>
> I got a half dozen replies to my sudden weakness for Harley Davidsons.
>
> Four Americans thought an english bike would be more appropriate,
> interesting.
>
> One Canadian and one Australian said they already did it, even more
> interesting.
>
> Jim D
> 1960BT7
>
> //
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:35:59 -0500
Subject: top straps
Evening listers,
Would someone supply me with the correct way to arrange the rear end of the
straps for the top frame? What is the proper finish for the semi-round clips
which hold the straps? What is the correct finish for the screws?
Thanks a million.
Keith Pennell
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:40:50 -0500
Subject: Side curtain to door seal
Evening again listers,
The seal on one of my new side curtains will not stay in its bottom track when
pressed down to the door, not even with upholstery adhesive.
In addition, the topmost area of the other side seal has maybe 1/8 inch of
space between the side curtain frame and windshield post - not nearly enough
for the seal. The post is adjusted as far forward as it will go.
Any advice?
Keith Pennell
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 18:13:04 -0800
Subject: Re: New Austin-Healey
The price of the name might erode, but the value? Not to us and not
to the Healey family, I suspect. Maybe that is why they said 'no', if
they did.
-Roland
On Sun, 18 Mar 2001 13:18:49 -0800 (PST), Reid Trummel
<AHCUSA@excite.com> wrote:
:: As time goes on and the public's
:: collective memory of cars named Healey continues to fade, the value of the
:: name erodes. Sad but true, time is not on the side of those holding title
:: to the name.
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 21:28:05 -0500
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
Reminds me of when BMC was first trying to market the MGC,
and thought they would call it the "MG Healey" or some such thing since it
had the seven main bearing version of the Healey 3 litre
motor. DMH said, "Sorry, but a Healey is a HEALEY," and that
was the end of it. Too bad that reasoning doesn't apply today.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <Rmoment@aol.com>; <david@bighealey.ltd.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
>
> i certainly agree with roger. simply using a name from the past to try
and promote a present day endeavor has no basis in accomplishment or
purpose. the austin-healey has its own heritage and achievement from a time
in the past which will never again be.
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 23:05:59 EST
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
In a message dated 03/18/2001 7:42:27 PM Mountain Standard Time,
mikebn2@win.net writes:
<< It is a modern day sports
car. It will definitely be fast. The better reception this new car
receives then the easier time we will have promoting the Austin Healey
marque. >>
So what does a modern, fast sports car have to do with the old Austin Healey?
Sure, Donald made a modern fast acar for the '50s and '60s, but he didn't
continue to develop it during the past 30 years. Healeys to me will be what
they were since their "personna" ended in '67/8.
Enjoy the new breed of car, but don't try to make it into a Healey. We'll
never know what they might have evolved into, equal or bettr than the new
offereing.
It's time to start a new life.
Roger
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:00:53 +1000
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
All that aside - it is an interesting looking car.
It is a little different from the usual run-of-the-mill sportscars currently
on offer and doesn't that SOUND like a description of a Healey ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
>
> i certainly agree with roger. simply using a name from the past to try
and promote a present day endeavor has no basis in accomplishment or
purpose. the austin-healey has its own heritage and achievement from a time
in the past which will never again be.
> Rmoment@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Why all the interst in a new "Healey"????
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Wesp11 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 03:10:53 EST
Subject: Rust free 100-4 sale
Anyone interested ($12,000) in an all original 56 B2 ,rust free, been in
storage for 12 years , contact me out side the list thanks
Hugh
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 03:24:45 EST
Subject: windscreens on E-bay
If you didn't check them out already, the elusive A-H windscreens are up over
600 bucks with 4 days to go. Wow. Any guess on the final price?Scott
Scott McPherson
BN4 (paid $350 for it)
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 05:58:28 EST
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
In a message dated 3/18/01 10:28:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net writes:
<< Reminds me of when BMC was first trying to market the MGC,
and thought they would call it the "MG Healey" or some such thing since it
had the seven main bearing version of the Healey 3 litre
motor. DMH said, "Sorry, but a Healey is a HEALEY," and that
was the end of it. Too bad that reasoning doesn't apply today. >>
Doug-
Reminds me of the old expression: "You just can't polish a turd." It is
not and will never be a Healey.
Looking forward to seeing you soon--Michael Oritt, BN1
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "R. C. Brown" <rcbrown at lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:00:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
Illinois plates
MKII BT7
BUGI AN5
NSTY FRG
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 07:29:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Your personalized plates?
OK I'll play -
Had a patio business in high school.
The work truck said: PATIO4U
The play car said: BUGI4ME
Dean
BN7
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 09:43:22 -0600
Subject: Seal for Fiberglass Tansmission Cover
Looking for the moulded rubber seals that are installed between the
fiberglass cover and the floor for my 1967 HBJ8L. Anyone know where
these would be available?
Thanks,
Al Schultz
HBJ8L34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 07:48:10 -0800
Subject: Thermostat domestic equivalent & other questions?
Hello Listers,
Would like to know if anyone's used a US auto-parts store thermostat in a
big Healey and if so, which one. I know I can get one from Moss but like the
idea of using one available anywhere.
Also--do they typically require premium gas, or can one use the middle pump?
My car (29D engine) feels healthy until it reaches about 4500 rpm, then
seems to start to run out of breath and the engine seems to vibrate quite a
bit. Is this normal? Haven't done a valve adjust, but the plugs look normal
and the ignition static timing is correct. Car backfires when decelerating
or going downhill with your foot off the throttle, but doesn't smoke.
TIA for any thoughts.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 08:08:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
I saw a new red Z8 tooling around the parking lot of
our local hardware store this weekend. If the "new"
Healey is anything like the Z8 life will be just
fine...
Dean
--- Greg Bankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au> wrote:
>
> All that aside - it is an interesting looking car.
> It is a little different from the usual
> run-of-the-mill sportscars currently
> on offer and doesn't that SOUND like a description
> of a Healey ?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:17:36 EST
Subject: Re: Thermostat domestic equivalent & other questions?
The thermostat for the Austin Healey is a special one that is unique to
british cars it has a sleeve on it that blocks a coolant bypass that is cast
into the cyulinder head. If this is not blocked off when the thermostat is
opened you will not have full flow of the coolant thru the radiator. (See
our Tech artical in Austin Healey mag and our Tech Talk Book page 189)
You could use a standard type thermostat in an emergency but for maximum
cooling you should use the correct style thermostat.
The best fuel that we have found for the Healey is either Union 76 or Chevron
92 octane.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:18:55 -0500
Subject: Can we put a time limit on dicsussion about the new healey?
Don't we think enough is enough? Between this and license plates, I'm
deleting more than I'm reading.
Bob Denton
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:18:15 EST
Subject: Re: Seal for Fiberglass Tansmission Cover
We have a seal kit available for this .
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:07:24 EST
Subject: Re: Thermostat domestic equivalent & other questions?
In a message dated 3/19/01 7:46:28 AM, sgerow@singular.com writes:
<< My car (29D engine) feels healthy until it reaches about 4500 rpm, then
seems to start to run out of breath and the engine seems to vibrate quite a
bit. Is this normal? >>
Gee, whiz -- I don't think I ever even rev my 29D engine up that high. And I
don't think I would unless I'd had the engine rebuilt to vintage racing
standards.
Cheers
Gary
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:43:14 EST
Subject: Interior colors
Listers,
I am in need of some opinions on interior color. My BJ8 is still pretty far
from needing upholstery, but the M*ss sale got me thinking again. The car will
be either all Healey Blue or Healey Blue over White. My question is what color
interior should I go with? I think that dark blue would have been original for
those colors, but then again my car was originally white. I like the look of a
black interior better, but I will always know that it should have been blue
with the proposed paint scheme. Did Healeys ever have Healey Blue paint and
black interior? Does anyone out there like the look of a blue car with black
interior? I don't intend to show this car...what would you do?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Andrew Bradley <abradley at cnw.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:36:51 -0800
Subject: BJ8 for sale? lost the message
A little while ago, there was mention of a BJ8 for sale. Anyone want to
send me info? Or if you know of another one, that would be appreciated, too.
Thanks...Andy
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:40:03 EST
Subject: RE: Interior colors
Philip,
Now that you mention it, I guess my biggest problem with the colors is having a
blue top. I guess I feel like the top should be black...like the dash pad is
always black. I wonder how it would look with blue interior and a black top?
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:41:05 -0600
Subject: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
Hi,
The Healey distributor uses vacuum plus centrifugal advance, as do a lot of
other cars. If this is substituted with a pure centrifugal arrangement
such as the Mallory, how is equivalent functionality maintained?
In general, is one preferred over the other? Just curious.
Thanks,
Adnan
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:12:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Interior colors
since it's your car you can have any color you so desire, however, blue cars
only came with blue interiors.
Csooch1@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> I am in need of some opinions on interior color. My BJ8 is still pretty far
>from
> needing upholstery, but the M*ss sale got me thinking again. The car will be
> either all Healey Blue or Healey Blue over White. My question is what color
> interior should I go with? I think that dark blue would have been original
>for
> those colors, but then again my car was originally white. I like the look of
>a
> black interior better, but I will always know that it should have been blue
>with
> the proposed paint scheme. Did Healeys ever have Healey Blue paint and black
> interior? Does anyone out there like the look of a blue car with black
>interior?
> I don't intend to show this car...what would you do?
> Thanks,
> Chris
> BJ8
> XJ6
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:27:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Seal for Fiberglass Tansmission Cover
Hi, Al -
I got mine from British Car Specialists
2060 N. Wilson Way, Stockton, CA 95205/Tel: (209) 948-8767, Fax: (209)
948-1030/e-mail: healeydoc@aol.com
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Schultz <aschultz@uwsa.edu>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, March 19, 2001 10:58 AM
Subject: Seal for Fiberglass Tansmission Cover
>
>Looking for the moulded rubber seals that are installed between the
>fiberglass cover and the floor for my 1967 HBJ8L. Anyone know where
>these would be available?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Al Schultz
>HBJ8L34297
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:40:44 EST
Subject: BJ8 Hardtop...
Does anyone on the list have or know of anyone that has a hardtop for the BJ8
that was manufactured/installed by the Donald Healey Motorworks?
I am looking for one to photograph for use in a book on Healeys.
Specifically I am looking for one that is very presentable. As an example of
the option which was available in 1967. Please respond to Bill Emerson at
OldHealeys@aol.com off list.
Thanks very much,
Bill
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:48:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior colors
Hi, Chris -
According to Clausager, the only trim color offered with Healey Blue or
Healey Blue over Ivory paint was blue. I went through the 300 + copies of
BMIHT certificates in the BJ8 registry looking for a Healey Blue car with
something other than blue interior, but didn't find one.
If your car was originally white but will be Healey Blue, then it will be
non-original anyway whatever the interior color. Is there anyone out here
who likes a black interior with a blue car? Yes, me. I'm in the camp that
believes you should make the car look like what YOU like.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (Corvette Yellow over Black)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Csooch1@aol.com <Csooch1@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, March 19, 2001 3:03 PM
Subject: Interior colors
>
>Listers,
>I am in need of some opinions on interior color. My BJ8 is still pretty
far from needing upholstery, but the M*ss sale got me thinking again. The
car will be either all Healey Blue or Healey Blue over White. My question
is what color interior should I go with? I think that dark blue would have
been original for those colors, but then again my car was originally white.
I like the look of a black interior better, but I will always know that it
should have been blue with the proposed paint scheme. Did Healeys ever
have Healey Blue paint and black interior? Does anyone out there like the
look of a blue car with black interior? I don't intend to show this
car...what would you do?
>Thanks,
>Chris
>BJ8
>XJ6
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:00:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
Hi, Adnan -
My equivalent functionality was maintained by removing the vacuum advance
line and plugging the input connection to the rear carburetor. The Mallory
advance curve is adjustable to whatever you want. I don't drive my car
for maximum performance, but I can't tell the difference between the old
Lucas dizzy and the Mallory. One difference is in the cost of the points --
the Mallory has dual points, at about $12 EACH if you get them from Moss.
The Mallory was also a lot cheaper than a new Lucas distributor or overhaul
of my old one. I installed the Mallory about 10 years ago, and it has been
completely trouble free and is still running on the original points (I
bought a spare set recently).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
To: 'healeys@Autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, March 19, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
>
>Hi,
>
>The Healey distributor uses vacuum plus centrifugal advance, as do a lot of
>other cars. If this is substituted with a pure centrifugal arrangement
>such as the Mallory, how is equivalent functionality maintained?
>
>In general, is one preferred over the other? Just curious.
>
>Thanks,
>Adnan
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 16:09:54 -0800
Subject: RE: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
In theory, you should get worse milage without a vacuum advance.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:44:55 EST
Subject: RE: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
They vacuum and centrifugal systems do different tasks. The centrifugal device
advances as revs, but the vacuum will change with load/throttle positions.
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:56:14 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 for sale? lost the message
> A little while ago, there was mention of a BJ8 for sale. Anyone want to
> send me info? Or if you know of another one, that would be appreciated,
too.
>
> Thanks...Andy
Andy,
Here is a copy of the post which I sent out. Have not seen the car, just
posting for a friend.
Listers,
I am posting this for a friend. No personal interest.
FOR SALE: BJ8 project car. The car is located in Newport News, VA. Here
is
some general info.
- 1964 phase II ?
- HBJ8L/29668
- 3198BJ8
- 74.552
- steel wheels
- engine turns
- appears 100% complete, but largely in boxes
- OD
- rust in usual areas but car is basically sound
- interior complete but extremely rough
- aftermarket hardtop poor condition
- asking $6000
Steve is a straight shooter. If you want more details contact him at
jlgibbsrealtor@aol.com
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 20:52:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum vs. Centrifugal Advance
To quote one of my very old text books
"The centrifugally controlled advance mechanism is calibrated to the
requirements of full throttle operation. This advance is increased by the
vacuum advance
mechanism for lighter engine loads"
Both are necessary for optimum performance and economy.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 20:38:32 -0800
Subject: Fw: Comments Regarding Overturning SB 42
For those interested, here is the reply I received from Senator Dick
Ackerman.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Senator Ackerman
To: 'Bruce Steele'
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: Comments Regarding Overturning SB 42
Dear Mr. Steele:
Thank you for your letter regarding the possible repeal of Senate Bill
42. I commend you for participating in the legislative process.
As you know, SB 42 of 1997 exempts motor vehicles manufactured prior
to the 1974 model-year or, beginning January 1, 2003, motor vehicles
that are 30 or more model-years old from Californias smog check
requirements. On July 12, 2000, the California Air Resources Board
(ARB) released a report indicating that improvements to the Smog Check
II program were necessary in order for California to meet federal
clean air standards. One of the many suggestions offered was to repeal
SB 42s rolling exemption for cars that are 30 or more model-years
old.
I supported SB 42 in the Assembly. It seems that repealing the 30-year
old rolling exemption is premature in light of the fact that it doesn
t take effect for two years. Further, the ARB has several directions
it can take when it comes to reducing air pollution and decisions in
that regard should be made only after thoughtful deliberation.
I hope you find this information helpful. Please do not hesitate to
contact me on this or any other issue of concern.
Sincerely,
DICK ACKERMAN
Senator, 33rd District
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Steele [mailto:bsteele2@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:04 PM
To: Senator.Ackerman@sen.ca.gov
Subject: Comments Regarding Overturning SB 42
Dear Senator Ackerman:
I have recently learned through the California collector car network
that the California Air Resources Board has proposed legislation which
would overturn Senator Quentin Kopp's bill, SB 42, signed into law by
Governor Wilson about two years ago. This bill exempted automobiles
older than the 1973 model year from biannual smog checks as they were
considered collectable vehicles. It also put into place a provision
that beginning in 2003 cars over 30 years old would be exempted as
well.
The passage of this bill was the result of a huge statewide grassroots
effort
by car collectors, restorers, and businesses that provide services to
this
hobby. It was modified at the request of CARB at the 11th hour to
provide
for a 30-year exemption rather than the 25-year exemption used by the
federal EPA and Department of Transportation.
The bill made sense because it protected a hobby and industry that is
important to California's economy, that contributes to a variety of
charitable activities, and that reinforces an important part of
California's
culture and identity. The bill also made sense because of the
insignificant
contribution that cars manufactured before 1973 make to the state's
clean air problems.
As the owner of a classic 1960 Austin-Healey and being an active
classic car hobbist, I am particularly concerned with the CARB's
attempt to overturn SB 42. As is true with my old car colleagues, my
car is driven very few miles per year, and is scrupulously maintained.
I would appreciate any information you can provide me on the status of
CARB's efforts in this regard and the legislative process such efforts
might follow. As one of your constituents, I would also appreciate
knowing your own position on such a move by CARB
Sincerely,
Bruce D. Steele
1435 Arrow Wood Drive
Brea, CA 92821
bsteele2@pacbell.net
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jim Hill <Jim_Hill at chsra.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:23:06 -0600
Subject: New Austin Healey
While I'd agree that the connection between the BMW show car and a "real"
Austin Healey appears tenuous at best, I'm a bit surprised at the stridency
of Roger's statement that, "I'd want nothing to do with the car and wouldn't
feel it should belong in our clubs or our shows."
It's a CONCEPT car. It doesn't yet--and may never--exist in any real sense.
There are no "New Healey" owners. Isn't it a tad premature to be excluding
non-existent cars and owners from the pleasure of our company?
Depending on what--if anything--develops from this, the connection between
"new" and "old" may not be all that different from that between the Z8 and
the old 507.
Just my tuppence.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
==========Original Message===========
Regarding the "New" AH/BMW show car, Roger Moment wrote:
Why all the interst in a new "Healey"????
Any such car would have no connection or heritage to the cars we know and
love. Like the resurrected Bugatti a few years back, other than the name,
what tied it to its famous past?
The Corvette has had a continual evolution form 1953 to present, and though
a totally different car engineering-wise, it does have a continuity of
tradition. But taking an extinct marque and just slapping the name on a new
piece of machinery leaves me totally cold. A curiosity, yes. But I'd want
nothing to do with the car and wouldn't feel it should belong in our clubs
or our shows. It would be just like an "alien" showing up at a class
reunion.
The more talk and excitement Healey owners show, the more the concept gains
publicity. Rather to let it die an unmarked death.
Roger
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:54:47 -0800
Subject: New Healey, Final Word?
Reid indicated that Healey stories pop up about every five years. AutoWeek
magazine covered it in Aug, Sep, and Oct '94, Sep, and Oct '95, Sep '98, Apr
'99, and Mar 20, 19??. Chatter had something Nov '94 and the (Vacaville)
Reporter (newspaper) Oct 23, '98. The announcement that I like the best,
however, appeared in Road & Track, January, 1986. It read as follows:
THE HEALEY 100 RETURNS.
Flash Report from England. Our British Watergaters have come up with what is
sure to be one of the hottest stories of this or any other year. Donald
Healey will be back in the car business within two years with an Eighties'
version of the original Healey 100. As a reflection of current automotive
trends, the new car will place considerable emphasis on electronics and luxury
equipment. It will feature such items as a mobile telephone, in-car
television, cathode-ray display for all instruments, controls and warning
lights, cooled as well as heated seats (take that, Saab), which will be
covered in Connolly pigskin leather; power assisted clutch and gearshift
mechanism, 12-speaker quadraphonic Dolby stereo/tape player and an
electronically controlled transmission that can be operated as a 5-speed
manual or a 4-speed automatic with converter lockup, all at the push of a
single button. The car will be called, not surprisingly, the Austin
Tatious.
Len.
///
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From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 02:15:46 -0500
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
Until Geoff and Donald are interviewed on their opinion to the contrary of this
Healey-badged BMW, I will view it exactly as such.
Z8 & 507? Correct me if i'm wrong but they are both designed, engineered and
built by the same company.
Fred Criswell
Let's get back to discussing Healeys
On Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:23:06 -0600 Jim Hill <Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu> wrote:
While I'd agree that the connection between the BMW show car and a "real"
Austin Healey appears tenuous at best, I'm a bit surprised at the stridency
of Roger's statement that, "I'd want nothing to do with the car and wouldn't
feel it should belong in our clubs or our shows."
It's a CONCEPT car. It doesn't yet--and may never--exist in any real sense.
There are no "New Healey" owners. Isn't it a tad premature to be excluding
non-existent cars and owners from the pleasure of our company?
Depending on what--if anything--develops from this, the connection between
"new" and "old" may not be all that different from that between the Z8 and
the old 507.
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "john.metcalfe3" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 03:12:19 +0000
Subject: Wiring loom
John
I have the drawing details for you but I have lost your e-mail address
contact me so that I can send it .
John Metcalfe
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Chris Woodall" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:17:44 -0500
Subject: Aluminum heat shield
There has been discussion in the past of an aluminum foil "Smoker Blanket"
that doubles as a great heat insulator for the interior. Has anyone been
successful in locating this material in SE Michigan or SW Ontario?
Thanks,
Chris Woodall
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:30:11 -0500
Subject: Re: New Austin Healey
Jim,
I think not....The difference is between night and day. I agree with
Roger and doubt that the unique enthusiasm, engineering perspective and
genius of Donald Healey will ever be "developed" by BMW or any other
company.
Happy (original) Healeying,
Doug
On Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:23:06 -0600 Jim Hill <Jim_Hill@chsra.wisc.edu>
writes:
>
>While I'd agree that the connection between the BMW show car and a
>"real"
>Austin Healey appears tenuous at best, I'm a bit surprised at the
>stridency
>of Roger's statement that, "I'd want nothing to do with the car and
>wouldn't
>feel it should belong in our clubs or our shows."
>
>It's a CONCEPT car. It doesn't yet--and may never--exist in any real
>sense.
>There are no "New Healey" owners. Isn't it a tad premature to be
>excluding
>non-existent cars and owners from the pleasure of our company?
>
>Depending on what--if anything--develops from this, the connection
>between
>"new" and "old" may not be all that different from that between the Z8
>and
>the old 507.
>
>Just my tuppence.
>
>Jim Hill
>Madison WI
>
>==========Original Message===========
>Regarding the "New" AH/BMW show car, Roger Moment wrote:
>
>Why all the interst in a new "Healey"????
>
>Any such car would have no connection or heritage to the cars we know
>and
>love. Like the resurrected Bugatti a few years back, other than the
>name,
>what tied it to its famous past?
>
>The Corvette has had a continual evolution form 1953 to present, and
>though
>a totally different car engineering-wise, it does have a continuity of
>tradition. But taking an extinct marque and just slapping the name on
>a new
>piece of machinery leaves me totally cold. A curiosity, yes. But I'd
>want
>nothing to do with the car and wouldn't feel it should belong in our
>clubs
>or our shows. It would be just like an "alien" showing up at a class
>reunion.
>
>The more talk and excitement Healey owners show, the more the concept
>gains
>publicity. Rather to let it die an unmarked death.
>
>Roger
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:14:00 -0500
Subject: New A-H
Many years ago, in the late 1930's to be exact, BMW exported their latest
sports cars to the UK. Rather than being sold as BMW's, they were rebadged as
Frazer-Nash BMW's, with the heavy emphasis on the Fraser-Nash. The traditional
Fraser-Nash owners, The "Chain Gang", would have little or nothing to do with
these new F-N's, since they were not in the traditional style. Never-the
-less, these cars had a good following with those who saw the virtues of the
new car, whether it was or wasn't a real Fraser-Nash.
Sound familiar?
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 11:57:43 EST
Subject: Re: plates
HEALEY (California). These plates were transferred over to my 100 by the
widow of Steve Toth in appreciation for me helping to sell his cars after he
passed away.
Here is the story that Steve always told on how he got these plates. When
California first issued the vanity plates some years ago they ran into a
dilemma since many of the popular marques had numerous requests, e.g.,
PORSCHE had upwards of 30 requests. To solve this they (California DMV) held
a lottery for the all of the most popular requests and Steve was told when he
requested HEALEY that he was number 11 on the list. When he confirmed the
spelling, the person at DMV said "No Mr. Toth you are the only one requesting
HEALEY, but number 11 for HEALY". I don't know how true the story is but
it's a good one anyway and I have the plates so who knows.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1 "HEALEY", '60 AN5 (O.K., who has the "BUGEYE" plate?)
In a message dated 3/16/01 10:59:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rmarkl@bellsouth.net writes:
<< HEALEY (Louisiana). Not very imaginative, but it cuts down on the
number of people who pull up and say that's a nice looking MG!
Happy St. Patrick's Day
Rudi Markl
100M >>
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Whitaker, Philip J" <whitakp1 at bp.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:34:03 -0600
Subject: BN4(longbridge) BT7 Top Frame Assembly
Dear Four Seaters
I have a BN6 2 seater but I have the removable top frame assembly for the
4-seaters of the same vintage ie the longbridge BN4s and BT7 models. It has
the typcal broken arm which I can get repaired if anyone is interested in
it. (photo's available). Ideally I would like to trade for the correct
BN6/BN7 top frame if anbody out there has one. I realise the BN6/BN7
version is probably a lot harder to find but it's worth a shot.
Regards
Philip Whitaker
BN6
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 14:21:39 EST
Subject: Re: BN4(longbridge) BT7 Top Frame Assembly
We can suply you the 2 seater top frame it is available new.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 14:18:30 -0600
Subject: Advance information - thanks!
Thanks to all who responded to my query about vacuum advance versus
centrifugal only. I hadn't thought about race applications, hence couldn't
figure out why so many systems offered only centrifugal advance.
Regards,
Adnan
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 17:44:43 -0500
Subject: Fluorescent light solution!
Listers,
Well, the trouble with my fluorescent light is now solved! For those who
don't recall, this is the light with new ballast and new bulb which would not
come on unless touching the bulb gently near one end. I consulted several
electricians here and the only reply I got was check the connections - same
from some of you.
As it lay on the workbench yesterday I plugged it in to play with it some
more. Voila! It worked! Brought it in and mounted it. Voila! It didn't
work.
Reversed the plug in the wall outlet. Voila! It now works.
Now who can explain it??? No, it has no Lucas components.
Keith Pennell
Still baffled by flowing electrons
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 17:56:14 -0500
Subject: Vacuum advance part
Listers,
The vacuum advance on my DM6 distributor has a retaining clip which goes on
the end of the adjusting arm. This is the end of the arm where the
mircrometer adjusting nut is located. One catalogue shows the retaining clip
but cannot tell what it looks like and they are not available.
What I took off is a simple U shaped crimped wire. Should this be a E clip or
what?
Thanks for the input anyone.
Keith Pennell
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 18:22:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance part
Hi Keith,
It should be that simple U shaped crimped wire. The idea is that as the thumb
nut
is tightened against the clip it cannot force it off the end of the threaded rod
as would be the case with a larger clip.
Simple but effective.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> The vacuum advance on my DM6 distributor has a retaining clip which goes on
> the end of the adjusting arm. This is the end of the arm where the
> mircrometer adjusting nut is located. One catalogue shows the retaining clip
> but cannot tell what it looks like and they are not available.
>
> What I took off is a simple U shaped crimped wire. Should this be a E clip or
> what?
>
> Thanks for the input anyone.
> Keith Pennell
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 16:30:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Mystery Sound to be solved
About a year ago I recorded a light tapping sound by
placing my laptop under the Healey and starting the
engine. The sound would go away within the first few
seconds of cold startup. Some of you guessed that it
is piston slap, or a wrist pin or ?? Some said forget
it and others just said - tear it apart.
Having just moved into a new old house other projects
took priority. Since then I put about 3,000 miles on
the car. It is now time. When coming back from
dinner a few weeks ago the light tapping sound became
a little more pronounced. It is now a problem. The
engine is really coming out this weekend.
I plan on leaving the transmission in place. I hope
that is smart. I plan to get it torn down far enough
to identify the problem (just to satisfy my
curiosity). Ultimately it will be completely rebuilt.
I'm sure that I'll have questions. I don't believe
the engine has ever been rebuilt. It has standard
size AEC stamped rod bearings and from the best that I
can tell the car has about 40,000 miles. Although it
could have 140,000. I am however able to document the
mileage from the early 1970's at 17,000. The previous
owner said he almost never drove the car, so I'm not
really sure. I do know that I've put on more miles on
the car in the last few years then he did in ten.
I'll keep you posted on what I find and we can then
put a cause to the mystery noise. If you need to
listen again the url for the large sound file is:
http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/healey.html
Dean 1960 BN7 :(
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 21:06:46 -0500
Subject: Who was it who had the overdrive problem?
A few weeks ago, someone said they had the problem of their overdrive
staying engaged all the time. I just wondered how that problem turned out?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 18:46:18 -0800
Subject: BUGEYE for sale
HI,
Got a mysterious call today on my message machine from somebody named Frank.
He has a 1959 Bugeye for sale in Santa Cruse, CA for $8,000.00
You can call Frank at 831-515-4498 X1204
That's all he said. Must be a great car for 8K
He asked I post it, so I did.
I know nothing else, Call Frank.
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:16:34 EST
Subject: Re: 6-cyl oil pan/sump needed
We have some new and used oil pans for both the 4 and 6 cyl cars.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 22:17:35 EST
Subject: Re: fuel line clips
Install the clips onto the fuel or brake line first the with a small hammer
tap them into place.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 00:07:30 EST
Subject: Help on oil/water gauge
I'm in the process of replacing the interior in my BT7. I need to remove the
dash to recover it. Everything has gone as planned until I tried to remove
the water temp. sending unit from the head. After being in place for 39
years, it doesn't want to come out. So, does anyone have any hints for doing
this without destroying a very expensive and impossible to find part?
Lacking any effective advice, does anyone have a spare gauge for sale? Of
course, I failed to mention that my BT7, # 14299, was the first to be fitted
with a centigrade temp gauge.
Suggestions so far:
1. small torch, heat block, hope for the best;
2. cover dash without removing that particular gauge.
Any other suggestions?
Jerry Hay
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 05:47:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Mystery Sound to be solved
hi dean-
i think you find it is much easier to pull the engine and transmission together
rather than pulling the engine separately especially when you get ready to
reinstall the engine. good luck on your project !!
happy healeying,
jerry
Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>
> About a year ago I recorded a light tapping sound by
> placing my laptop under the Healey and starting the
> engine. The sound would go away within the first few
> seconds of cold startup. Some of you guessed that it
> is piston slap, or a wrist pin or ?? Some said forget
> it and others just said - tear it apart.
>
> Having just moved into a new old house other projects
> took priority. Since then I put about 3,000 miles on
> the car. It is now time. When coming back from
> dinner a few weeks ago the light tapping sound became
> a little more pronounced. It is now a problem. The
> engine is really coming out this weekend.
>
> I plan on leaving the transmission in place. I hope
> that is smart. I plan to get it torn down far enough
> to identify the problem (just to satisfy my
> curiosity). Ultimately it will be completely rebuilt.
> I'm sure that I'll have questions. I don't believe
> the engine has ever been rebuilt. It has standard
> size AEC stamped rod bearings and from the best that I
> can tell the car has about 40,000 miles. Although it
> could have 140,000. I am however able to document the
> mileage from the early 1970's at 17,000. The previous
> owner said he almost never drove the car, so I'm not
> really sure. I do know that I've put on more miles on
> the car in the last few years then he did in ten.
>
> I'll keep you posted on what I find and we can then
> put a cause to the mystery noise. If you need to
> listen again the url for the large sound file is:
>
> http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/healey.html
>
> Dean 1960 BN7 :(
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:00:02 EST
Subject: Re: Help on oil/water gauge
Jerry,
I had luck by removing the water outlet and thermostat and soaking the
sending unit from the inside with penetrating fluid. The best penetrating
fluid I have used (and I have tried them all) is Busty from our own Ed Kaler.
No financial interest, etc., etc., but the stuff is good!
I also have a socket that I made that is slotted to fit over the line and has
a hex head on it that works well. it is a 13/16 spark plug socket and has
worked on my cars and for several people. However one person who borrowed it
said it was the wrong size. Can any of the experts tell us what size they
should be and why a difference?
I have Busty and the socket if you need them.
Don't cut the line!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:10:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Help on oil/water gauge
Jerry, DO NOT USE A TORCH! don't ask me how I know. Snap-on sell a
socket with a split side that works, you can also cut a slot in a thin ring
wrench, shorten the handle and tap with a hammer. Good luck. Cheers....Bob.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: Help on oil/water gauge
>
> I'm in the process of replacing the interior in my BT7. I need to remove
the
> dash to recover it. Everything has gone as planned until I tried to
remove
> the water temp. sending unit from the head. After being in place for 39
> years, it doesn't want to come out. So, does anyone have any hints for
doing
> this without destroying a very expensive and impossible to find part?
> Lacking any effective advice, does anyone have a spare gauge for sale? Of
> course, I failed to mention that my BT7, # 14299, was the first to be
fitted
> with a centigrade temp gauge.
> Suggestions so far:
> 1. small torch, heat block, hope for the best;
> 2. cover dash without removing that particular gauge.
> Any other suggestions?
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:20:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Help on oil/water gauge
Hi Jerry,
The hex on the temp bulb nut is 5/8". We have used, for several years, a deep
5/8
" impact socket with a slot cut up from the bottom about 1 1/2" to accommodate
the capillary tube. We install the socket then put a hose clamp around the
socket
at the bottom which we tighten to "within an inch of its life ". This will work
IF the nut has not been previously attacked.
I have been known to spend 4 - 5 hours in attempts to save these gauges.
Good luck..
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Jhayspu@aol.com wrote:
> I'm in the process of replacing the interior in my BT7. I need to remove the
> dash to recover it. Everything has gone as planned until I tried to remove
> the water temp. sending unit from the head. After being in place for 39
> years, it doesn't want to come out. So, does anyone have any hints for doing
> this without destroying a very expensive and impossible to find part?
> Lacking any effective advice, does anyone have a spare gauge for sale? Of
> course, I failed to mention that my BT7, # 14299, was the first to be fitted
> with a centigrade temp gauge.
> Suggestions so far:
> 1. small torch, heat block, hope for the best;
> 2. cover dash without removing that particular gauge.
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Jerry Hay
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:36:24 EST
Subject: followup on oil/water gauge
I'm soaking the sending unit as we speak. Just in case, anyone have the
address for a good rebuilder?
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 07:24:09 -0700
Subject: license plates
Listers'
Came across an interesting site, especially if you are looking for antique
plate to match your antique auto.
Go here: http://danshiki.oit.gatech.edu/~iadt3mk/index.html
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 09:57:26 -0800
Subject: BN 2 For sale
To The Healey List: A buddy of mine has a BN2 for sale the engine and
brakes have been redone and the car runs and drives. Needs cosmetics
the car is complete.
He is asking $10, 500. Email me for details. Thanks, EDS
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:20:26 -0500
Subject: Re: followup on oil/water gauge
Jerry,
Try Busty or Kroil. You can also yank the thermostat to get loose-
juice to the inside end of the fitting.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 8:36 AM
Subject: followup on oil/water gauge
>
> I'm soaking the sending unit as we speak. Just in case, anyone have the
> address for a good rebuilder?
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:28:24 EST
Subject: Re: BUGEYE for sale
In a message dated 3/20/01 6:52:19 PM, brianmix@home.com writes:
<< Got a mysterious call today on my message machine from somebody named
Frank.
He has a 1959 Bugeye for sale in Santa Cruse, CA for $8,000.00
You can call Frank at 831-515-4498 X1204 >>
Saw a gorgeous BRG bugeye with new soft top and apparently new wire wheels
and tires cruising up Central Expressway through Silicon Valley yesterday. If
it's the same car, it's worth pursuing.
Cheers
gary
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:05:46 EST
Subject: Door panels
I wanted to offer this to the list before I post it to E-bay:
One pair Cherry Red inner door panels for Bugeye Sprite. NOS in original
paper wrapping. Obviously never used and in concours condition. Best offer.
Thanks
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Alain <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:52:11 -0500
Subject: Help on oil/water gauge
I have found that anything that needs soaking with penetrating fluid
needs about a week of patiently re-spraying the fluid to really help.
So my two cents is be patient...
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:49:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Help on oil/water gauge
Hi, Jerry -
If you are forced to try heat to remove the temp bulb nut, I would suggest
you keep a lot of cold, wet cloths on the sensor line and have someone
monitoring the gauge. If you over-heat the line in the process and allow
the gauge to peg out, you will ruin the gauge.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Jhayspu@aol.com <Jhayspu@aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 2:27 AM
Subject: Help on oil/water gauge
>
>I'm in the process of replacing the interior in my BT7. I need to remove
the
>dash to recover it. Everything has gone as planned until I tried to remove
>the water temp. sending unit from the head. After being in place for 39
>years, it doesn't want to come out. So, does anyone have any hints for
doing
>this without destroying a very expensive and impossible to find part?
>Lacking any effective advice, does anyone have a spare gauge for sale? Of
>course, I failed to mention that my BT7, # 14299, was the first to be
fitted
>with a centigrade temp gauge.
>Suggestions so far:
> 1. small torch, heat block, hope for the best;
> 2. cover dash without removing that particular gauge.
>Any other suggestions?
>
> Jerry Hay
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From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 17:10:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Door panels
Hey CAWS,
How much you asking for these?
Fred
On Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:05:46 EST CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
I wanted to offer this to the list before I post it to E-bay:
One pair Cherry Red inner door panels for Bugeye Sprite. NOS in original
paper wrapping. Obviously never used and in concours condition. Best offer.
Thanks
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 18:34:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Help on oil/water gauge
Tapping lightly with a small steel hammer can help, too. The vibration
aids penetration of the fluid.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: Alain <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 9:52 PM
Subject: Help on oil/water gauge
>
> I have found that anything that needs soaking with penetrating fluid
> needs about a week of patiently re-spraying the fluid to really help.
> So my two cents is be patient...
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:54:09 -0800
Subject: Change to Healey Site
Hello everyone
There are a few new additions to the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
including, Page 18 of my restoration (which speaks for itself literally)
an A3 size Healey timeline chart in "ADS", and a 1959 BMC Australia
letter describing the contents and installation of the Le Mans Kit for
the 100 (Ta Patrick).
Happy Downloading
Regards
Larry Varley
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:19:01 -0700
Subject: Fw: New Classified Forum
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
59 AH :{) 54 BN1
Click below for home page and photos:
http://thatsracin.koz.com/racing/Healeys
----- Original Message -----
From: <webmaster@britishcarforum.com>
To: <frogeye@gateway.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 10:09 PM
Subject: New Classified Forum
> To all British Car Forum members: I have added a classified forum where
you can buy/sell parts, cars, wherever...
>
> Enjoy,
> Basil
>
> http://www.britishcarforum.com
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 11:59:47 -0500
Subject: Fw: New Classified Forum
I know this message has been previously posted, but I thought i would
give it one more try. Thanks.........
"The engine in my late BN2 was removed at some time prior to my purchase
and replaced with an early BN1 engine. I would like to replace it with a
block cast in '56. On the lower corner of the block behind where the
starter would project is a slightly raised rectangular boss with rounded
ends. on this boss there should be numbers such as 12.3.6 (there may be
spaces between them) suggesting the block was cast March 12, 1956. I am
looking for a block that may have a date in May or very early (before the
11th) June, although I would consider any block from early 1956. Please
contact me off the list if you can be of any help. Thanks."
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:10:08 EST
Subject: Re: Interior colors
I have not had a chance to compile the results of my interior color question,
but thanks for all of the replies.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 10:37:15 -0800
Subject: Frank's Bugeye...
Got an e-mail and call from the mysterious Frank, I pointed him at the spriget
list. Here is more detail. I still don't know any more, although if it's really
a
12K mile car, well, WOW.
Here is what he sent me:
1959 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite for Sale in Santa Cruz, Calif. 12,000
miles.White with green interior. Runs great. Restored except for paint.Email
nathan5678@netzero.net or 8315154498 ext 1204 asking $7,900.00
///
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 10:43:37 -0800
Subject: Car prices dropping?
With the plunge in the market and the general belt tightening in the economy,
has
anyone noticed the prices of Healeys going down too. Do classic car prices
usually lag behind economic dips?
Does this mean I'll have to wait even longer 'till my car is worth as much as I
have into it? ;-)
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
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From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 13:58:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Car prices dropping?
If you believe the economy is bad, it shall be. Our "president" is bad mouthing
it,
but I still see a fairly strong economy, but a lousy stock market. If you are
planning an IPO for your Healey, then the time is not good. I personally don't
see
any price drops in the near future.
Bob
Brian Mix wrote:
> With the plunge in the market and the general belt tightening in the economy,
>has
> anyone noticed the prices of Healeys going down too. Do classic car prices
> usually lag behind economic dips?
>
> Does this mean I'll have to wait even longer 'till my car is worth as much as
>I
> have into it? ;-)
>
> Brian
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 14:00:12 EST
Subject: Re: Car prices dropping?
In a message dated 3/22/01 10:46:24 AM, brianmix@home.com writes:
<<
With the plunge in the market and the general belt tightening in the economy,
has
anyone noticed the prices of Healeys going down too. Do classic car prices
usually lag behind economic dips?
Does this mean I'll have to wait even longer 'till my car is worth as much as
I
have into it? ;-) >>
Turning the Magic 8 ball over, the answer comes up -- "Future not clear; Ask
again later."
At Barrett-Jackson in January, three Healeys each sold for over $45,000 plus
commission. These were very well restored, by Healey specialists, but were
nothing unusual -- one BJ8, one BT7, one BN7 -- no tricarbs, no special
history.
Those are certainly record auction prices for standard Healeys. They were
sold in the context of very high sales percentages for BJ, and solid but not
escalating prices for other cars at the Scottsdale auctions.
On the other hand, that was before the market plunge in February. But I
certainly wouldn't say Healey prices per se are coming down. Instead, if
these are any harbingers, they should be more solid than most cars if there
is a downturn in demand for hobby cars.
Cheers
Gary
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:22:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car prices dropping?
Brian Mix wrote:
>> With the plunge in the market and the general belt tightening in the
economy, has anyone noticed the prices of Healeys going down too. Do
classic car prices usually lag behind economic dips? <<
I'm not an economist (of course, neither are most economists), but I play
one on the Healeys List, so here goes:
As many people have noted, among "collector cars" the Austin-Healey seems to
occupy a special niche. It's below -- in $$$ value -- the Ferraris, Astons,
Shelby Cobras, etc., but above the MGs and Triumphs. It occupies a middle
ground, at times approaching the lower end of the high-dollar-car-value
range (note recent Barrett-Jackson auction results with three big Healeys
going for $47,000-50,000 each), and at other times sagging into MG territory
(no offense intended to MGs).
It is the high-dollar-value cars that seem most buffeted by changes in the
economic winds. When things go sour economically, people with more personal
wealth and disposable income stop (or cut back on) buying luxuries such as
collector cars. However, the lower-dollar-value cars seem more stable
(there's just less room for their already-low prices to fluctuate too much),
as there is "always $5000 available" for an MGB or TR6.
In 1989-90 when collector car prices went through the roof, Healey prices
climbed all right, but not as much -- percentage-wise -- as the
high-dollar-value cars. Likewise, when the bottom fell out in late 1990 and
into 1991, Healey prices did not fall back all that much. Some of the rise,
which was comparatively modest for big Healeys, stuck in a way that it did
not for many marques.
So to try to answer your question more directly, my crystal ball (made by
Lucas) says that the current and near-future of the economy will not greatly
affect big Healey prices. I would not expect any big shifts. In fact, big
Healeys will hold their value better than many, if not most, stocks.
However, as my econ instructor in grad school used to say at the close of
every lecture, "But I could be wrong."
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 15:44:28 EST
Subject: Needed parts and triva
The domino theory popular during the Vietnam War really explains owning a
Healey. When one thing goes bad, something close by also goes bad.
Here goes: anyone ever removing a trafficator knows that the base plate and
tube fits INTO the stator tube. The PO must have jammed the base plate OVER
the end of the stator tube: result, one damaged stator tube and a trafficator
base plate with the upper tube broken off. Any one have a base plate for a
trafficator? I actually sold one on this list several months ago, breaking
the cardinal rule "Never sell, trade, or give away anything related to
Healeys that you don't have two of." Maybe that person will send me/sell me
the trafficator base plate from the one he removed from his car.
Trivia question: the collar on the steering column is black, but is it flat
or gloss?
Jerry Hay
BT7 [gutted, ugly, scheduled to be at Springthing]
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From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 15:51:34 EST
Subject: Needed parts and trivia, P>S>
Any suggestions for cleaning up the steering wheel? Paint? Polish?
Jerry
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:05:34 -0500
Subject: BN-1 Brake Fluid Reservoir
All,
I've discovered that I seem to have an incorrect reservoir cap for my
BN-1....... Is there anyone out there with a spare/extra can with a
round (not octagonal) cap to sell or trade for one with oct. cap? or
better yet, and preferably, trade my restored oct. cap for a round
cap?
Thanks, Ed A
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From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:58:05 EST
Subject: (no subject)
I've never needed to before, but now I need to know how to access the
archives; I'm going to take my trafficator apart to rewire; May the list help
me.
Jerry
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 16:36:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Car prices dropping
Hey Brian,
I guess you were not struck as I was by Mike Salter's comment,
compairing driving a Healey to digging a hole in the road and dumping
your greenbacks into it. As I can see from your website you took the
same route to Healeying as I did with the very same result!
The only difference is that your car looked closer to what it really
was than mine at the time of purchase (I bet I spent more than you in
restoration, and unlike some people out there I am NOT darn proud of
it). If I ever sell my BJ7, I'd be happy to recover 2/3 of what I put
in it! Some day I will have to tell my kids that I put their
education in jeopardy for the pleasure of cursing at an assembly of
British steel parts...
Accepting the irrationals of driving LBC's is a big step that can be
difficult to accomplish. I can testify.
I have been on Denis Welch's site this morning.Well maybe I could
spend another few grands building a race engine to swap with my stock
one from time to time...
Francois
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From "Wm. \"Kit\" Henry II" <khenry at hmcltd.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:40:50 -0500
Subject: FOR SALE
Hello Group:
I'm reluctantly putting my 1947 MG TC up for sale. It needs a complete ground
up restoration, though is very solid. I do not see me ever having the time to
do it.
This car was owned and raced by Chuck & Suzy Dietrich. Chuck at the age of 74
or 75, I believe has the oldest active SCCA license in the country. This car
is equipped with a supercharger, and side exhaust. It has a custom swirled
aluminum dash in it with a spare new wood one. The new wiring loom is still in
a box. There is a minimum of 2 sets of wheels, I believe the tall and the
short ones 19" and 16"
There is a full set of cycle fenders and many spares and original sale stuff
form the Dietrich's as they owned. I am the only owner after them having
purchased the car in aprox. 1975, I was still in high school. The car has been
garaged since that time and does roll. I had it on the road though I spun the
bearing in the supercharger. Alfin Brake drums, may have the racing buckets
yet.
Asking $15000.00 OBO for the whole nine yards.
Kit Henry
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:08:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: AH Tools For Sale
Hi all,
Please excuse this commercial message, but I have some original AH tool kit
items for sale, and I believe that some of you may be interested. Otherwise
please hit DELETE now, and sorry for the intrusion.
1. Screwdriver, Austin Part No. 2H 4614, appropriate for kits of all 100,
all 100-6, early 3000 (thru 10160 (BN7) and 10564 (BT7) and all Bugeyes,
excellent condition - $10 (have two available).
2. Spanner for tappet screws, Austin Part No. 2H 1361, appropriate for
kits of all 100, fair condition (rust pits), thus only $10 on this
relatively rare item (have two available).
3. Spanner (double-ended flat), Austin Part No. 2H 83, appropriate for
kits of all 100, excellent condition (NOTE HOWEVER, this item has one very
slight "incorrect" feature: although it is a vintage, authentic "period"
item, where it should say "BSF" it is instead marked "BS" on the handle,
thus it is 99 percent correct, BUT NOT REPRESENTED HERE AS EXACTLY CORRECT),
thus only $10 on this relatively rare item (have two available).
4. Spanner (double-ended flat), Austin Part No. 2H 89, appropriate for
kits of all 100, fair condition (dinged up from use) thus only $10 on this
relatively rare item (have two available).
5. Spanner (double-ended flat), Austin Part No. 2H 88, appropriate for
kits of all 100, excellent condition - $15 (have four available).
6. Jack handle (handle only) for the late 3000 kits (after 10160 (BN7) and
10564 (BT7) including ALL 3000 Mark II and Mark III, REPRODUCTION ITEM but
quite exact - $10 (have several available).
Please respond (off list!) with your requirements and I'll set them aside
for you. Shipping to be added based on actual cost. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://vitesse.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 22:24:42 -0500
Subject: Water bottle
My 1967 BJ8 had some repair work done on the passenger side near the
firewall before I bought it. The water bottle is larger than the ones I
have seen on other BJ8's of the same year. This one was on it when I
bought it in 1969 and still in good shape. Anyone know what the diameter
should be? This one is around 4" in diameter and the others I have seen
are at least 1/2" smaller. Barry Pate
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:29:44 +1000
Subject: Modern Tools - NO Healey content
Why does all this sound true to me ?
>
> THE MODERN TOOLBOX
>
> Hammer - In ancient times a hammer was used to inflict pain
> on ones enemies. Modern hammers are used to inflict pain on
> oneself.
>
> Screwdriver - The drink ordered at the local bar after you
> call in a professional repairman to undo the $500 in damage
> you did while trying to change out a light socket with your
> handy screwdriver.
>
> Phillips Screwdriver - The bar drink that you order when the
> damage estimate is over $1,000. Contains twice the vodka.
>
> Pliers - A device used to extend your reach the necessary
> few inches when you drop a one-of-a-kind screw down behind
> the new wall it took you two weeks to install.
>
> Multi-Pliers - Contain a handy assortment of sharp and
> dangerous tools. Best left in its leather sheath and worn on
> a homeowners belt to increase testosterone levels.
>
> Electronic Stud Finder - An annoying device that never goes
> off when you point it at yourself.
>
> Halogen Light - A worklight that lights up your backyard
> with the incandescence of a football stadium, causing you to
> cast a heavy shadow over the area you're working on so that
> you need to use a flashlight anyway.
>
> Cordless Drill - A device that lessens your chance of
> electrocution 90% over a standard plug-in tool.
>
> Cordless Telephone - The handyman's 911.
>
> Air Compressor - A mechanical device similar in principal to
> harnessing the power of your mother-in-laws nagging
> complaints and using the resulting airflow to blast old
> paint off the side of the house.
>
> Chainsaw - Allows you to cut your way out of the shed that
> you accidentally built completely around yourself.
>
> Vise Grips - A pair of helping hands that doesn't critique
> the job you're doing or offer advice.
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From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 05:51:19 -0500
Subject: Modern Tools - NO Healey content
Selling my 54 bn1. Contact me off list
lance
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:25:57 EST
Subject: Springthing 2001
Less than two months away from Springthing 2001! Gerry Coker, designer of
the Austin Healey 100 and Bugeye will be the special guest at Springthing
2001 to be held May 17, 18 & 19 in Lexington Kentucky.
Springthing is a three day celebration of the Healey Marque hosted by the
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club. This years event will be held in one of the
most picturesque locations amid the center of Thoroughbred Horse Farms and
Facilities. Events include a Gymkhana, Rally, Car Show, Funkhana, BBQ,
Banquet and much more including a Healey Boat Show.
Please make plans to join us at this unique event. Full details and a
registration form are available on our web site at Bluegrassclub.com
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:05:45 -0600
Subject: odd parts
Just wondering if Champion NA8 or NA10 spark plugs are available from
anyone on the list or if someone has a secret source that they would
like to reveal? ;~) I know that these were not the best plugs but they
were what was original to my car and I would like to have a set for my
own satisfaction. I would also like a set of the original windshield
wipers that were on the car if anyone knows of the availability of
these.
Thanks!
Ward Stebner
1956 BN2
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From MJ Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:19:57 -0500
Subject: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONVERSION FROM POSITIVE GROUND TO NEGATIVE
Folks,
I know it's been brought up before, but I just found this on the
Northeast Austin Healey club website and I want to check with the experts
if this is all I will have to do to my 59 BT7 to convert to Negative ground...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
=========================================================
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONVERSION FROM POSITIVE GROUND TO NEGATIVE
Here is a list of the steps:
1. Swap battery cables to opposite battery terminals. You will have to
change/swap the
clamps on the battery cables as the battery terminals are two different
sizes. Leave them
disconnected for now and proceed.
2. Reverse the wires at the coil.
3. Repolarize the generator. This is done by the following:
A. disconnect both leads to the generator.
B. connect a 14 gauge piece of wire to the "hot" terminal of the
starter solenoid (i.e. the
starter solenoid terminal connected to the battery lead)/
C. reconnect the battery in the new negative ground configuration.
D. take the other end of the 14 gauge wire and flash it once or
twice against the smaller
generator terminal enough to see a small spark.
E. remove the 14 gauge wire from the starter solenoid terminal.
F. reconnect the generator leads and PRESTO, the generator is
repolarized.
4. If installed, reverse the leads on any ammeter or voltmeter.
5. Pre-1968 SU fuel pumps are not polarity sensitive and will continue to
work in the new
negative ground configuration without modification. However, newer SU
pumps are polarity
sensitive and will require modification to function properly. The easiest,
and most expensive
option, is to simply buy a new negative ground SU fuel pump.
///
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:07:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Pre-Production Car Photo
Hi all,
A few weeks ago there was some discussion on the list about the
pre-production Austin-Healeys built at the Donald Healey Motor Company in
Warwick while Austin geared up for series production at Longbridge. One of
those cars is featured on the cover of the March issue of Austin-Healey
Magazine and I thought you make like a look (or, for members, a preview --
and there are more color photos of the car on the inside of the March
issue). Please see this URL:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:07:12 -0800
Subject: RE: odd parts
I got some NA what ever (the dark color ones) for a 100S from a source in
Massacusetts. I found them in Hemmings.
Ken Freese
Ken Freese65 BJ8
-
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From Frank A Filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:22:52 -0500
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONVERSION FROM POSITIVE GROUND TO
Mike,
Three other important points ot remember that may or may not apply
depending on the year and equipment in your car are:
1. Radio polarity must be reversed. Some early radios have a polarity
reversing plug which can be configured for either positive or negative
ground. Do not attempt to isolate a positive ground radio from the
chassis. This is a fire hazard and an accident waiting to happen.
Replace the radio instead.
2. Electronic tachs on later cars can be rewired internally to work on
negative ground. Places like Nisonger can do this.
3. Check rotation on the electric motors in your car before conversion.
Most will operate fine except those with permanent magnet stators. These
must have the polarity reversed to rotate correctly.
Good luck on your conversion,
Frank Filangeri.................."Don't always follow the crowd.
1962 E OTS Flat Floor.........Nobody goes there anymore.
1951 MGTD Racer.................It's too crowded." Yogi Berra
.
On Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:19:57 -0500 MJ Brouillette
<mbrouill@ix.netcom.com> writes:
>
> Folks,
>
> I know it's been brought up before, but I just found this
> on the
> Northeast Austin Healey club website and I want to check with the
> experts
> if this is all I will have to do to my 59 BT7 to convert to Negative
> ground...
>
> Mike Brouillette
> 59 BT7
>
> =========================================================
>
> ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONVERSION FROM POSITIVE GROUND TO NEGATIVE
>
> Here is a list of the steps:
> 1. Swap battery cables to opposite battery terminals. You will
> have to
> change/swap the
> clamps on the battery cables as the battery terminals are two
> different
> sizes. Leave them
> disconnected for now and proceed.
> 2. Reverse the wires at the coil.
> 3. Repolarize the generator. This is done by the following:
> A. disconnect both leads to the generator.
> B. connect a 14 gauge piece of wire to the "hot" terminal
> of the
> starter solenoid (i.e. the
> starter solenoid terminal connected to the battery lead)/
> C. reconnect the battery in the new negative ground
> configuration.
> D. take the other end of the 14 gauge wire and flash it
> once or
> twice against the smaller
> generator terminal enough to see a small spark.
> E. remove the 14 gauge wire from the starter solenoid
> terminal.
> F. reconnect the generator leads and PRESTO, the
> generator is
> repolarized.
> 4. If installed, reverse the leads on any ammeter or voltmeter.
> 5. Pre-1968 SU fuel pumps are not polarity sensitive and will
> continue to
> work in the new
> negative ground configuration without modification. However, newer
> SU
> pumps are polarity
> sensitive and will require modification to function properly. The
> easiest,
> and most expensive
> option, is to simply buy a new negative ground SU fuel pump.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
///
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From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:40:58 -0800
Subject: Is it just me, or is it...
Its QUIET out there... too quiet... I'll bet I know whats happening.
The weather is nice where you live, and you are playing hookey, and driving
or wrenching on your Healeys while I'm stuck at work. Well if you are, have
fun, and be careful out there!
Martin
BN7
AN5
GAN3
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:53:04 -0500
Subject: Top fram again
Got no replies on this so am sending it again!
Evening listers,
Would someone supply me with the correct way to arrange the rear end of the
straps for the top frame? What is the proper finish for the semi-round clips
which hold the straps? What is the correct finish for the screws?
Thanks a million.
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:58:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance part
Thanks to Mike and all on the distributor part question.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Keith,
>
> It should be that simple U shaped crimped wire. The idea is that as the
thumb nut
> is tightened against the clip it cannot force it off the end of the
threaded rod
> as would be the case with a larger clip.
>
> Simple but effective.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > The vacuum advance on my DM6 distributor has a retaining clip which goes
on
> > the end of the adjusting arm. This is the end of the arm where the
> > mircrometer adjusting nut is located. One catalogue shows the retaining
clip
> > but cannot tell what it looks like and they are not available.
> >
> > What I took off is a simple U shaped crimped wire. Should this be a E
clip or
> > what?
> >
> > Thanks for the input anyone.
> > Keith Pennell
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From Jhayspu at aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 19:36:58 EST
Subject: Trafficator resurrection
I found a spare baseplate, followed careful instructions, felt secure because
I had offers of spares and further advice, avoided dropping screws or
forgetting to note the color of wires, and she lives again!
Thanks to the list in general but Neil Trelenburg for the draft of his
article on this very operation; Eugene Montresor for his equally clear
instructions; Bob Haskill and Robert Wiley for offers of spare parts; Steve
Byers for warning me to note the colors of wires [NO, the Moss wiring harness
does not use the same color wire as the original]; and Lee Mairs for his
suggestion that medical counseling might be helpful.
I've discovered two serious problems in this little project [this week] and
now one is solved. Now, if only I could get the sending bulb for the water
temp gauge out of the head, I would be a happy camper! Thanks again.
Jerry Hay
BT7 [with a functional trafficator]!
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From "Mike Jackley" <mjackley at dtgnet.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:42:44 -0700
Subject: Re: FOR SALE
Kit=============I have an interest in the TC you indicated that you have for
sale. Would appreciate more information as to condition, location, etc.
Thanks!
Mike Jackley mjackley@sturgis.com
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From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 12:15:45 -0500
Subject: wanted bj8
Does anyone on the list have for sale bj8, preferferably blue? I am
aware of the hemmingings site and other classifieds. Thought there may
be someone that hasn't used the web classifieds wanting to sell. You may
contact me off list e-mail
caudle1@home.com
Thanks Dave
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From dyaarl anderson <dyaarl at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 16:22:09 -0500
Subject: WIRE WHEELS AND TIRES
My 100/6 was restored in December and I installed 4 new Dunlop 15 x 4"
painted 48 spoke wire wheels, 4 new 165 x 15 Firestone tires with spoke
bands and tubes. The wheels have 300 miles on them, they are mounted and
balanced and are for sale for $600.00 and the buyer pays shipping . I
have just installed chrome 72 spoke Dayton's with michelins all around.
Please contact me off list if interested.
Cheers Dyaarl
58 BN4
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-pkcs7-signature which
had a name of smime.p7s]
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 16:46:31 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Interior question
Hello all,
I have a 1967 BJ8 which I have never seen assembled. I have a Moss
interior kit and do not understand the passenger side foot well outside
facing panel with the large rectangular hole in it.
Why is there a large hole in that panel??
Do I cover the metal behind it with vinyl or carpet or leave it painted
metal??
Thank you in advance.
Earle Knobloch
Estero, FL
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:11:41 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Interior question
Hi, Earle -
The hole in the panel is to clear the accelerator foot for right-hand drive
cars. I guess it avoids wearing a hole in the upholstery. The left-hand
side doesn't have that problem, so there is no hole in the panel. The metal
bulkhead behind the hole should be covered with a square of vinyl.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Earle Knobloch <armynavy@gte.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, March 24, 2001 4:52 PM
Subject: BJ8 Interior question
>
>Hello all,
>
>I have a 1967 BJ8 which I have never seen assembled. I have a Moss
>interior kit and do not understand the passenger side foot well outside
>facing panel with the large rectangular hole in it.
>
>Why is there a large hole in that panel??
>
>Do I cover the metal behind it with vinyl or carpet or leave it painted
>metal??
>
>Thank you in advance.
>
>Earle Knobloch
>
>Estero, FL
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 18:17:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Water bottle
Hi, Barry -
The BJ7 water bottle is larger in diameter than the BJ8. It measures about
3-1/2" and the BJ8 bottle is about 3 inches.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: jbpate@attglobal.net <jbpate@attglobal.net>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, March 22, 2001 10:44 PM
Subject: Water bottle
>
>My 1967 BJ8 had some repair work done on the passenger side near the
>firewall before I bought it. The water bottle is larger than the ones I
>have seen on other BJ8's of the same year. This one was on it when I
>bought it in 1969 and still in good shape. Anyone know what the diameter
>should be? This one is around 4" in diameter and the others I have seen
>are at least 1/2" smaller. Barry Pate
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 19:44:14 -0500
Subject: Paint Job
Got the BJ8 back from the painters today-----beautiful ice blue. Terrific
job he did.
There always seems to be "something", though. As I was driving home it kept
jumping out of 4 gear when I let off the gas. Anybody know why and how easy
to fix?
tom
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:58:53 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Interior question
In a message dated 3/24/01 4:47:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, armynavy@gte.net
writes:
> Why is there a large hole in that panel??
>
> Do I cover the metal behind it with vinyl or carpet or leave it painted
> metal??
>
>
Hi Earle-
Question#1-The "large hole" in the panel for the right side foot well was
done to allow a little additional foot room for right hand drive cars. The
accelerator pedal is right there and ever little bit of foot room helps.
Question#2-The metal is covered with vinyl of the matching color as the panel.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:29:33 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net,
and in HTML format yet, gag!
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
From: RAWDAWGS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 21:14:19 EST
Subject: BT7 for sale
The man I sold the BT7 to 6 months ago has called me back and decided this
project is a little over his head and wants to bail out. It is a rusty
project car and is located about 2hrs east of Houston Texas. WW/OD rusty but
mostly there, clear title, price should be around $2000. Contact me off list
for details and pictures.Scott
Scott McPherson
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:31:41 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded Message
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Neal" <grotenhuis@mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Help on oil/water gauge
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 16:11:47 -0500
I tried the 5/8 deep socket with the slit in it, but ended up breaking the
line. I sent it to Nisongers. It's nothing $125 won't fix. They sent it
back with a new capillary tube and nut just like new. No interest, etc.
Neal Grotenhuis
'61 BT7
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:11:11 -0800
Subject: Hundred top frame question???
Listers,
I'm readying my BN1's top frame for a new top, and I have a question.
The two little screws that hold the clips to the frames. The chrome clips that
will latch to the windshield frame.
Those two screws, do they thread into the frame or are they captured by nuts on
the other side? AND dare I ask what thread they should be?
Brian Mix
'55 AH-100 LeMans
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
Web-Master Austin Healey Club of San Diego http://www.sdhealey.org/
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 20:39:34 -0800
Subject: April 7th Healey Rally _ So California
Saturday, April 7, 2001, is the date for the Greatest Austin Healey
Rally to ever start at the world famous Petersen Automotive Museum in
Los Angeles. (Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the
Petersen, but in any case you can be part of this event!)
The Austin Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring
this rally in conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and
the Austin Healey Club of Southern California.
The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
located at the SEC of Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los
Angeles, a few miles north of the 10 Freeway, at 8.00 AM on Saturday
April 7, 2001.
Here's the plan, Healeys will be lined up by classes:
100's, 100/6, 3000 roadsters, 3000 convertibles, Modified, Sprites,
Jensen-Healeys.
>From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up as they enter the
parking lot. At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided.
>From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will be a Popular Choice judging by
class. (Ralph Comito of the Healey Association has volunteered to handle
this part, but he still could use some helpers - volunteers, please!).
While this event is going on, Rally participants may wander into the
Petersen Museum and view some of the exhibits that will be opened
exclusively for our group on that morning.
At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen Museum to a final
destination in Malibu. We envision that the cars would leave 60 seconds
apart. The goal would be for all cars to be on the road in under one
hour. We have made a preliminary drive of the course and it is
approximately 70 miles long and the route taking about 2 hours to
complete. This will be a time and question rally. (More on this later).
At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
1.30.
The entry fee for two people, of $35.00 for club members, $40.00 for non
club members and $45.00 after April 1st, will include early morning
coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the museum, and a
lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also include two free
passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any later date before
the end of 2001.
Who can come, what to drive:
The Rally is open to EVERYONE but especially all members of the Austin
Healey Association, Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club
of Southern California, AHCUSA, and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag
200 members. Members of these groups are encouraged to bring their
Healeys, and their friends, but can enter any car for the Rally.
(Everyone is welcome to come and see the cars).
For an entry form please reply to me and I will send one back to you.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
Rally Masters
Ron Rader 310.306.6060 Rader@interworld.net
Debi Nichols 310.306.6062 dnichols@pacificacapitalgroup.com
Fax 310.306.2329
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:01:17 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Interior question
Thank you everyone for your responses to my foot well question.
Soon this Healey will be (in the words of Willie Nelson)... "on the road again"
Earle Knobloch wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1967 BJ8 which I have never seen assembled.
///
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:40:58 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred top frame question???
In a message dated 03/24/2001 9:13:42 PM Mountain Standard Time,
brianmix@home.com writes:
<<
I'm readying my BN1's top frame for a new top, and I have a question.
The two little screws that hold the clips to the frames. The chrome clips
that will latch to the windshield frame.
Those two screws, do they thread into the frame or are they captured by nuts
on the other side? AND dare I ask what thread they should be?
>>
The two latches are attached using Phillips, oval head, countersunk 10-32
screws that are 11/16" long, as mesured from the base of hte countersink to
the tip of hte screw. The thread length is 5/8" and the tip of the screw is
pointed (the last 1/16" of length). Each uas a 1/2" OD flat washer under
an acorn/dome nut. The original nuts have little circles touching (sort of
like the Audi emblem) that are stamped into one flat. All pieces are chrome
plated.
The screws that attach each of the triangular support brackets to the inside
of the front bow are slotted, oval head, countersunk, chrome plated, wood
screws. The rubber button (same as used on the bottom of the boot openng) is
pushed into the tird hole -- easier to do this before attaching the piece to
the frame.
The webbing straps are atteched to the rear bow by one of two methods. On
earlier 100s, where there is a screw hole in the OUTER radius of the bow on
each side, the top was screwed to the bow using a trim screw and cup washer.
The strap is attached to the top by sewing at the "dart" seam). Screw to the
bow as the last step after lining evrything up.
If your bow has no outer holes but four on the bow underside that generally
line up with each strap (two screws per strat, four holes total), then the
strap is attached here using the same trim screws and cup washers. Wrap the
strap over the bow and around fromt he back and double up the end for about
1/2" to hide the cut edge. However, the strap is also sewn to the top at
this dart seam and you attach the strap ends tot he bow after everything is
installed and the bow is lined up with the dart seam. Leave few inches of
strap to be trimmed off when measuring for the end position.
Roger
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From Dave and Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 09:38:17 -0500
Subject: looking for Al Yoas
Anyone know of Al Yoas who was in Irving Texas? In the early 80's he was
collecting info on all MKIII's fitted with air conditioning. Also had
the installation instructions reprinted showing step by step guide. Any
info on Al or air conditioning would be appreciated. Save the remarks
about "who would put air in a healey"
Thanks Dave
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From rcomito <rcomito at uia.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:48:43 -0800
Subject: California Healey Week 2001
The Austin Healey Association which is centered in the LA area is
hosting its annual California Healey Week, May 31-June 3d at the Rio Bravo
Resort,located just East of Bakersfield, CA.
Events include a British Pub Night, drive up the Kern River Canyon
to Kernville for lunch, optional dinner at a Basque Restaurant, a popular
car show
at the lodge,remote car racing, a panoramic drive through the Bakersfield
area,"Healey
Feeley,"awards banquet, raffle brunch and many other fun activities.
For more information or a registration form contact: Ralph Comito,
rcomito@uia.net or at 909.985.6481.
///
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:55:56 -0500
Subject: engine cradle
listers:
I'm looking for info on a "ENGINE TRANSPORTATION CRADLE, I know they
make them for american engines, just wondering if there are any
application for the healey engine and trans.
Thanks......Dennis Broughel
Bn-4
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 08:58:19 -0800
Subject: Re: California Healey Week 2001
At 08:48 AM 3/25/01 -0800, rcomito wrote:
>The Austin Healey Association, which is centered in the LA area, is
>hosting its annual California Healey Week, May 31st - June 3rd at the
>Rio Bravo Resort, located just East of Bakersfield, CA....
>[snip]
>...For more information or a registration form contact: Ralph Comito,
>rcomito@uia.net or at 909.985.6481.
There's also a printable registration form at
<http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover/sdhealey/chw_registration.pdf>
Rick
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 11:23:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: [Reverse flushing of cooling system]
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:28:38 +0200
From: TC <tm-c@gmx.net>
Subject: Reverse flushing of cooling system
At the moment with outside temperatures between 0 and 10 Celsius the
running temperature of my BJ8 is about right (getting a bit hotter
in stop and go traffic). I fear it will not stay at this level when
temperatures reach 25 and more.
I have read somewhere that after so many years the cooling channels
within the block get blocked which reduces the flow of coolant. This
could be dealt with by reverse flushing the cooling system. I can
imagine what this means but would like to know what exactly needs to
be done. Are special cleaning fluids involved? How much pressure is
needed / recommended?
Additional info: I have an additional electric fan istalled but that
only seems to help in stop and gpo traffic, not when cruising.
Best regards
Tim Campe
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:12:17 EST
Subject: Re: Hundred top frame question???
In a message dated 03/25/2001 7:43:17 AM Mountain Standard Time,
Rmoment@aol.com writes:
<<
The screws that attach each of the triangular support brackets to the inside
of the front bow are slotted, oval head, countersunk, chrome plated, wood
screws. The rubber button (same as used on the bottom of the boot openng)
is
pushed into the THIRD hole -- easier to do this before attaching the piece
to
the frame. >>
I had a typo pointed out to me in the above paragraph. For those that might
not have followed completely, there are three triangular plates that extend
down from the front bow and press against the rear of the windshield frame.
Each plate has three holes in it -- two countersunk ones for the mounting
screws, and a third for the rubber buffer that presses agains the chrome of
the windshield frame.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:24:08 -0400
Subject: Brit car week
Anyone out there have the dates for the all British car week? Is it first
week of May?
Keith Pennell
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 13:05:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Brit car week
On Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:24:08 -0400, Keith Pennell wrote:
>> Anyone out there have the dates for the all British car week? Is it
first week of May? <<
No, it's May 19-27. See:
http://www.healey.org/events.shtml
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Robert Bell <rgbell at chartermi.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:51:12 -0600
Subject: Fan ?
To the Experts:
I have a 65 BJ8 phase II. As most of us, I am doing some rebuilding. My
car came(when I bought it) with a 16 blade fan! What I have seen are 4
and 6 blade fans.
Is this a make shift arrangement?
How does the number of blades affect the cooling of the engine?
Do fewer larger blades draw more air it at idle speeds or do more
smaller blades draw in more air?
Or doesn't it make any difference?
Thanks for your input.
Bob Bell
'65 BJ8
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:20:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Fan ?
Hi, Robert -
16-blade fans were offered on BJ8s destined for West Germany and Switzerland
beginning with the Phase 2 cars. Your car was originally delivered to
Germany, so the fan is probably original to your car.
The smaller blades/more of 'em design should be more efficient at moving
air, since the air flow will be smoother through the fan, with less
"pulses". The 16-blade fan looks more like the fan of a jet engine.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bell <rgbell@chartermi.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 25, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Fan ? x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
>To the Experts:
>
>I have a 65 BJ8 phase II. As most of us, I am doing some rebuilding. My
>car came(when I bought it) with a 16 blade fan! What I have seen are 4
>and 6 blade fans.
>Is this a make shift arrangement?
>
>How does the number of blades affect the cooling of the engine?
>Do fewer larger blades draw more air it at idle speeds or do more
>smaller blades draw in more air?
>
>Or doesn't it make any difference?
>
>Thanks for your input.
>
>Bob Bell
>'65 BJ8
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:29:40 -0500
Subject: Re: engine cradle
Try looking here for a picture of one someone built themselves...
http://home.dmv.com/~dietrich/estand2.html
-Skip-
Dennis Broughel wrote:
> listers:
> I'm looking for info on a "ENGINE TRANSPORTATION CRADLE, I know they
> make them for american engines, just wondering if there are any
> application for the healey engine and trans.
> Thanks......Dennis Broughel
> Bn-4
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From "Dan Corning" <d-corning at home.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:19:55 -0800
Subject: Parts is Parts?
I before I begin my engine reassembly, have a couple of questions regarding
ENGINE PARTS for my BT7.
First, my new pistons have one more oil control ring than the original set
had. What I found interesting was the extra ring is located BELOW the wrist
pin near the bottom of the skirt. It seems to me, extra rings will produce
more engine drag, and wear the cylinder walls out earlier. Do you think I
should use the extra ring or just take them out? (There are 3 compression
rings, one oil control ring just below them and the "extra" one near the
bottom of the skirt)
Second, My Tri-Carb heat shield is in poor condition. The asbestos covering
is peeling loose and looks terrible. I see that there is replacement
insulating material available but replacing the asbestos would mean I would
have to mess with taking it off the heat shield. The thought of trying to
do that kind of scares me to say the least. What would you suggest?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
Nashville, TN
BT7 - AN5
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From Viitamaki <ov at telus.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:36:52 -0800
Subject: Vintage Automotive Engineering
Hi, would anyone have a current address, telephone number, or Web
address for
Vintage Automotive Engineering.
The one I have is in Oakland Oregon, and for some reason I am under
the belief that
Everett Smith has moved the company to Northern California..
thanks
ov
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:05:00 -0800
Subject: RE: Vintage Automotive Engineering
Everett Smith
45123 HWY 96
P.o. Box 657
Seiad Valley Ca. 96086
(530) 496 3200
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From Todd S Taylor <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:56:21 -0500
Subject: VINTAGE AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEERING
Here's Evertt's web site if anybody is interested , I buy all my metal
parts from him too!
http://www.vintageautomotive.com/
Everett Smith
45123 HWY 96
P.o. Box 657
Seiad Valley Ca. 96086
(530) 496 3200
Just passing the info along Todd.....
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:51:00 -0800
Subject: Closer to 1984?
I mean Orwell's book, not the year.
This from the KFWB News (in Los Angeles) web site on 3/21/01:
Headline: Study Underway to Tax Motorists Depending on Distance
Driven
(KFWB)--California is one of several states studying a plan that could
lead to a tax based on the number of miles traveled. A Global
Positioning Satellite system and a tiny computer in your car would
track your mileage.
The University of Iowa's David Forkenbrock began the study seven
months ago and says the fuel tax could be phased out in favor of a
more efficient "actually (sic) miles driven tax." Supporters say it
is an equitable way of paying for new roads and repairing old ones.
Opponents say the high-tech taxing system is too intrusive.
Forkenbrock stresses it would not be a personal spying system.
The average cost per driver is projected to be around $20 a month.
Forkenbrock's controversial study is underway in nine states. He
expects it to be complete in a couple of years.
3.21.01, 4:10p
One more reason to write/email your legislators.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
1960 BN7
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From "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy at honeywell.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:48:28 -0700
Subject: Fitting an earlier exhaust on a BJ8?
I was wondering if anyone has experience with fitting one of the older six
cylinder exhausts to the Mark III?
One of the main reasons I'd always wanted a big Healey was that beautiful
"whoooom" sound that I heard whenever I saw a six-cylinder Healey as a kid
in the sixties. I thought then and still I think today that it was the most
beautiful exhaust note ever.
Two years ago, I bought a BJ8 after having decided on that model decades ago
because of the wooden dash and the higher horsepower.
Although my BJ8 with the standard exhaust sounds rather interesting with its
semi quiet "truck-like" exhaust tone, I figure I'd like the car a lot more
if it made that whooooming sound that I've heard on the earlier cars and
dreamed of for so long.
About five years ago, long before I bought my BJ8, I heard that beautiful
whoooom sound coming from a 100-6 and just never thought that my future BJ8
wouldn't sound like that 100-6. However, I've not had a chance (during the
brief 2 years since I've owned my BJ8) to do an audio survey to see if all
pre-BJ8 six cylinder Healeys made that same beautiful whoooom sound.
Questions:
Is it possible to get the same or similar whoooom sound by replacing two of
the four BJ8 mufflers with straight pipe? If so which two?
Will the earlier exhaust bolt directly on to my BJ8 ?
If I put the earlier exhaust on my BJ8, would the car lose performance? If
so how much?
Would there be other negative effects?
My apologies to those of you who prefer the BJ8 sound or think fitting
"incorrect" parts cheapens the cars.
Dave Murphy
66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:03:07 EST
Subject: Austin-Healeys on TV
Just caught a 1/2 hour History Channel show on Austin-Healeys--pretty good
coverage and some great rallye car footage.
Michael Oritt, BN1
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:09:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Fitting an earlier exhaust on a BJ8?
Dave,
When I purchased my one-owner BJ8 (27K original miles), everything was
original except that the prior owner had eliminated the last two mufflers
and ran the pipes straight out the back end, on the driver's side. I'm not
sure what you're after, but I can tell you that this arrangement is LOUD.
(Maybe that's why he drove it so little over the years.) I am thinking of
going back to the original config so I don't scare the neighborhood every
time I start it up.
Bill
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:35:34 -0600
Subject: Message Archive
Is there a message archive for the list? I've been away for some time and
would like to catch up.
Thanks,
Bill
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:16:28 EST
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
OK -- what about this for paranoia:
The FCC is requiring next generation cell-phones to be able to indicate their
location (using GPS positioning) so that emergency calls to 911 can be
responded to expeditiously. What a great idea, except that what it means is
that it will be possible for authorities (or others?) to determine exactly
where you were when you made every cell phone telephone call.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:23:08 EST
Subject: Re: Engine colors
All of our information and observations indicate that all but the earliest
BN1 engines were painted the "Healey Engine Green" (actually "steel dust
grey" according to Clausager). However, don't forget that the same engine
was fitted to a number of other British Motor Corporation cars before,
during, and after the Healey Hundreds and some of those (the Austin Atlantic,
I believe would be one) had engines painted Morris Green. So, nothing to
stop an inventive mechanic with access to a good British junk yard from
swapping parts from another engine onto the Healey to keep it running.
Paint it Healey Green, Ed.
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 3/26/01 7:12:54 AM, justbrits@home.com writes:
<< Gents:
Got a minor prob. I have a customer doing a g/u on a BN-1 and he
currently in the motor/tranny stage. Neither of us is sure about engine
colour.
He brought me the oil filter assm to clear and get all parts into (NONE in
it, just the can & bolt<G>!!).
I have found several places on joint bolts that would appear to be "Morris
Green"?? Diff. WAY darker than "Healey Engine Green" and appears to be
non-metallic. >>
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:29:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
Gary,
Actually, they can already track you to the cell level, and those cells
aren't that large -- especially in urban areas. I think the trade-off for
the more detailed accuracy is worthwhile.
There's probably a business idea here somewhere. Perhaps a web site which
sells subscriptions to wives to look up your last known location! :-)
Bill
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:02:58 -0600
Subject: Previous Model Parts
Hi Listers,
A few weeks ago there was a thread about some new model Healeys containing
left over parts from a previous model. I am hoping someone can help with my
question. I have a 1960 3000 BN7 born in November, 1959 numbered 6185. Its
horn button has the 100/6 flash emblem on it instead of the 3000. I can use
some help understanding if this was possibily a manufacturing line install
or an attempt by a previous owner to replace a broken/missing horn button.
Any thoughts are apprecited.
Best regards,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Ray Feehan" <feehanr at cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:17:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Steele" <bsteele2@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Mom & Wes" <carpeterson@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:51 AM
Subject: Closer to 1984?
They wan't to put a GPS and a computer to keep track of the miles you drive.
Yeah, sure. It' a personal spying system. What about all the people who use
their cars to earn a living? Are they going to get some kind of relief?
Another moronic idea from people who are paid large amounts of money, money
that should go towards road repair. RayfixitanddriveitorsellitFeehan.
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:28:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Previous Model Parts
On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:02:58 -0600, Carlos Cruz wrote:
>> A few weeks ago there was a thread about some new model Healeys
containing left over parts from a previous model. I am hoping someone can
help with my question. I have a 1960 3000 BN7 born in November, 1959
numbered 6185. Its horn button has the 100/6 flash emblem on it instead of
the 3000. I can use some help understanding if this was possibily a
manufacturing line install or an attempt by a previous owner to replace a
broken/missing horn button. Any thoughts are apprecited. <<
We already had this conversation. :-)
Apparently BMC continued to use up 100-6 horn buttons and grill flashes on
early 3000 models. My belief is that this was done because the new pieces
were not not available (as opposed to just using up old stocks even though
the new 3000 items were available; after all, they would not want to
completely use up old stocks of 100-6 insignia since they'd need some for
spares anyway), but whatever the reason, it's well established that early
3000 models did in fact have 100-6 horn buttons and 100-6 grill flashes.
That said, who knows exactly why your particular car has the 100-6 horn
button? It could have been a DPO's doing, and it could have been the
original item. But whatever the case with your car, it is not unusual to
find 100-6 insignia on early 3000 models.
Cheers,
Reid
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:15:06 EST
Subject: re: old parts
In a message dated 3/26/01 1:30:46 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< after all, they would not want to
completely use up old stocks of 100-6 insignia since they'd need some for
spares anyway), but whatever the reason, it's well established that early
3000 models did in fact have 100-6 horn buttons and 100-6 grill flashes.
>>
Adding to what Reid has written. We now believe the first one to two hundred
of the "3000s" were manufactured with true "100-6" insignias on the grilles
and no 3000 flash on the trunk lid -- these insignias had the numbers 100 on
the flash followed by a six in a circle.
On the horn button, the 100-Sixes and the 3000s -- through at least all of
1959 and maybe longer, certainly at least the first 6000 of the "3000s" --
had an insignia on the horn that had a flash with the number 6 in a circle
just at the point where the flash breaks. (you can see this, though not very
clearly, on the picture of the steering wheel and instrument cluster of the
BT7 in our restoration book). I wouldn't call this a "100-Six" insignia,
since it doesn't have the 100 on it. But it is quite common and was
definitely a production piece.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:14:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
Yep. And the new proposed fed regulations to keep your medical records
"private"
make them automatically open to government agents (with no notice to you) upon a
mere assertion of a whole host of accepted purposes, e.g. research, law
enforcement, etc. No Fourth Amendment protection. (The feds even asserted in
the Jan. Fed. register that medicine is now so heavily regulated that docs,
hospitals, etc. have no reasonable expectation of privacy, so the Fourth
Amendment should no longer apply to them.)
Any listers who care about this issue have a chance to do something about it as
the Dept. of Health and Human Services is accepting comments upon the regs
through 5PM 3/30. For a very critical view and info as to where to send comments
see http://www.aapsonline.org/aaps/ , hit the upper link in the left frame.
(Don't send email. Last comment period HHS was so swamped that, although they
of
course continue to give an email addy for comments up front, way down in their
-HHS- instructions they allow as how they don't have the personnel to process
them.)
Regards,
Peter
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> OK -- what about this for paranoia:
>
> The FCC is requiring next generation cell-phones to be able to indicate their
> location (using GPS positioning) so that emergency calls to 911 can be
> responded to expeditiously. What a great idea, except that what it means is
> that it will be possible for authorities (or others?) to determine exactly
> where you were when you made every cell phone telephone call.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 13:50:17 -0600
Subject: Help needed with a BJ-8
I haven't started my BJ-8 for some time, and now when I go to start it, the
ignition light comes on, the lights work and the fuel pump runs, but when I
switch the ignition, it just clicks and everything goes dead. Then nothing
works. What should I be looking at?
Thanks!
Bill
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 21:12:21 -0500
Subject: Cluster Gear
Anyone know if the cluster gear from a 60-3000 will work OK in a BJ8?
TIA
tom
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From D Job <djob at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 21:36:05 -0500
Subject: Web site update
For those interested I have added a new page on my web site which shows
an original unmolested 1958 BN4 belonging to Rick Lees. The page
includes photos of the original interior showing the differences
between the Longbridge cars and the later Abingdon roadsters. Ricks car
is one of the transition cars built in early 1958 at Abingdon but with
Longbridge features.
http://members.home.net/djob/anoriginalcar.htm
cheers
Derek Job
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From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:25:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Cluster Gear
Yes I know.... no it won't
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
tom felts wrote:
> Anyone know if the cluster gear from a 60-3000 will work OK in a BJ8?
>
> TIA
> tom
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From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 21:50:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Previous Model Parts
My '67 BJ8, 39031, built 10-17 Nov '66, which would put it past the halfway
mark in BJ8 production, has a '6' flash horn button. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 1:02 PM
Subject: Previous Model Parts
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> A few weeks ago there was a thread about some new model Healeys containing
> left over parts from a previous model. I am hoping someone can help with
my
> question. I have a 1960 3000 BN7 born in November, 1959 numbered 6185.
Its
> horn button has the 100/6 flash emblem on it instead of the 3000. I can
use
> some help understanding if this was possibily a manufacturing line install
> or an attempt by a previous owner to replace a broken/missing horn button.
> Any thoughts are apprecited.
>
> Best regards,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:39:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Fitting an earlier exhaust on a BJ8?
Dave: When I acquired my '67 BJ8, it did not have the rear resonators, just
the two mufflers with the tailpipes coming straight back the left side (same
as Bill Puetz'). As I recall, I liked the sound except when decelerating or
going down a hill in a lower gear. It backfired a lot and got very
annoying. Had to install the resonators as original. Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Murphy, David (Southfield)" <david.murphy@honeywell.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Fitting an earlier exhaust on a BJ8?
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience with fitting one of the older six
> cylinder exhausts to the Mark III?
>
> One of the main reasons I'd always wanted a big Healey was that beautiful
> "whoooom" sound that I heard whenever I saw a six-cylinder Healey as a kid
> in the sixties. I thought then and still I think today that it was the
most
> beautiful exhaust note ever.
>
> Two years ago, I bought a BJ8 after having decided on that model decades
ago
> because of the wooden dash and the higher horsepower.
>
> Although my BJ8 with the standard exhaust sounds rather interesting with
its
> semi quiet "truck-like" exhaust tone, I figure I'd like the car a lot more
> if it made that whooooming sound that I've heard on the earlier cars and
> dreamed of for so long.
>
> About five years ago, long before I bought my BJ8, I heard that beautiful
> whoooom sound coming from a 100-6 and just never thought that my future
BJ8
> wouldn't sound like that 100-6. However, I've not had a chance (during the
> brief 2 years since I've owned my BJ8) to do an audio survey to see if all
> pre-BJ8 six cylinder Healeys made that same beautiful whoooom sound.
>
> Questions:
> Is it possible to get the same or similar whoooom sound by replacing two
of
> the four BJ8 mufflers with straight pipe? If so which two?
> Will the earlier exhaust bolt directly on to my BJ8 ?
> If I put the earlier exhaust on my BJ8, would the car lose performance? If
> so how much?
> Would there be other negative effects?
>
> My apologies to those of you who prefer the BJ8 sound or think fitting
> "incorrect" parts cheapens the cars.
>
> Dave Murphy
> 66 BJ8
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:59:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
This is one of those cases where there are two (or more)sides with valid
arguments.
On the one hand, this could be an extreme case of invasion of privacy and may
even violate the U.S. Constitution. On the other hand, I look at it the same
way as I look at radar detectors. If you ain't misbehavin', what are you
worried about?
On the third hand, it could save your life. I recall a news item not too long
ago where a woman ran off the road and could not be seen from the highway.
She was trapped in her car but was able to call 911 on her cell phone. She
could not describe where she was, however, and it took a long time for the
authorities to find her.
But, I'm against it being mandatory. Make it an optional item. Our
government knows too much about us already.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
>
> OK -- what about this for paranoia:
>
> The FCC is requiring next generation cell-phones to be able to indicate
their
> location (using GPS positioning) so that emergency calls to 911 can be
> responded to expeditiously. What a great idea, except that what it means
is
> that it will be possible for authorities (or others?) to determine exactly
> where you were when you made every cell phone telephone call.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
///
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Bill Puetz" <bpuetz at msn.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:24:22 -0600
Subject: Help needed with a BJ-8 - Resolved
Thanks much to everyone who offered their help -- virtually everyone knew
what the problem was. (Except me, of course!) It was the battery
terminals. They seemed tight, but after I cleaned them and reconnected
them, we went for our first drive in a couple of years. Man, was that fun!!
Thanks a bunch, everyone.
Bill
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From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 08:07:14 -0500
Subject: Web site update
Derek,
Thanks for posting the pictures of my car, although I guess I should have
vacuumed it before taking the pictures. Another comment on the seat pans, my
passenger seat is not adjustable.
Thanks,
Rick Lees
58 BN4
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From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:10:18 EST
Subject: Re: History Channel/ Austin Healey Documentary
Just an FYI
The History Channel has an Austin Healey documentary that they put together a
couple of years ago. I purchased a copy directly from their website.
Check it out.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 09:06:41 -0800
Subject: Re: old parts
I have HBT7L-11923, an original, unrestored, unmolested car. The horn
button has the flash w/ the 6 at the break in the flash. As near as I can
tell (from the production changes shown in Clausager's book) this car was
built in the third quarter of 1960. This car does have the 3000 emblems
on the grill and trunk lid.
John Snyder
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 14:09:31 -0600
Subject: British Motoring Club of Arkansas - Upcoming All-British Car
Healey and Spridget Listers, if you're anywhere AT ALL NEAR Arkansas,
please consider our show in beautiful Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas.
Click on the link, then click on Events, then click on May 5th. Everyone is
welcome!!
http://www.bmcaonline.com/
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
///
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:38:16 -0500
Subject: Quicksilver Stanford CT
Listers all,
Does anyone know how to contact the manufacturer of automotive badges by
the name of Quicksilver in Stanford CT
--
Regards and thanks,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Roux Residence" <caroux at icon.co.za>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:31:14 +0200
Subject: Information Please
Hi
I live in Sandton, South Africa and is the owner of a 58 BN4 , a 65 BJ8 and
a 67 BJ8.
In South Africa we drive on the Left hand side of the road and consequently
most cars are right hand drive models. My BN 4 came as a CKD kit into South
Africa and was assembled in South Africa.
My information request relates to the two BJ8. These vehicles were brought
to South Africa in 1981 by an individual by the name of Andrew Pliska from
the USA. I am trying to trace some history of these vehicles.
CAR 1 Original details
1. Car/ chassis number H-BJ8-L / 29912
2. Dates built 30 November - 3 December 1964
3. Destination San Francisco, USA
4. Original Color - Healey Blue with Blue hood and interior.
I found this vehicle one year ago where it was left outside in the African
sun for the last 7 years . It was painted burgundy / maroon with a black
interior and black hood. I know the history of the car since it has been in
South Africa but have very little knowledge about this vehicle prior to
1981. From the records that I have found I do know the following:
Last known license plate number: 036LQA
In 1980 the following person paid its license fees:
Sedillo J Michael
726 Marin Dr
Mill Valley
CA 54941
Mr Sedillo sold this vehicle in 1979 for US$ 1700.00
In 1974 the license for this vehicle was paid by:
Tapia Richard Roland
14721 Sunset Bl
PAC PALISADES
CA 90272
Does anybody know Mr Sedillo or Mr Roland. Are they still alive?
This vehicle is currently undergoing a complete rebuild and I estimate
another 300 hours to completion. I hope to have this project completed by
December 2001
CAR 2 Original details
1. Car/ chassis number H-BJ8-L / 36488
2. Dates built 20-25 May 1966
3. Destination " personal export delivery for USA"
4. Original Color - Healey Blue with Blue hood and interior.
This vehicle is current painted old English White with black trim and a
white hood. It was garaged for a very long period and is in a reasonable
good condition. I drive this car to the office approximately once a week.
Since acquiring the vehicle I replaced the tyres and fuel tank, and serviced
the car. The last known license number is WFG763.
The only documents I have about this vehicle are some extensive invoices
from Moss Motors Ltd dated 1 July 1981. The invoices was made out to :
Gary's Mobile Prod.
SRV CNT / 1640 Crenshaw
Torrance
CA
Was this your car. Or do you know who it belonged too?
Any information about any of these vehicles will be greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards
Anton Roux
Roux Residence
Tel (02711) 783 2823
Fax (02711) 783 2812
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:22:11 -0500
Subject: questions
Question 1- My panhard bar has a bend in it on the drivers side about
15 inches in fromthe end. Is this bend suppose to be in it or should it
be straight?
Question 2-Does anyone know if either of our two national clubs sell
badges to the members that mount on the front and if they do who would I
contact?
Thanks
Bill Pollock
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:21:17 EST
Subject: Re: questions
In a message dated 03/27/2001 4:05:22 PM Mountain Standard Time,
wjpollock@erols.com writes:
<<
Question 1- My panhard bar has a bend in it on the drivers side about
15 inches in fromthe end. Is this bend suppose to be in it or should it
be straight? >>
It should be straight.
Roger
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:03:47 -0500
Subject: caliper pistons bj7
Can caliper pistons be saved with fine grit paper (600 +) or should I just get
new ones. I'm looking at $30 per. Any better deals out there?
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:50:06 -0800
Subject: and I thought roll up windows were an upgrade...
Took an early Sunday drive in the BJ7. My wife was in the passenger seat
and rolled up the side window even though it was about 65 F. 5 minutes
later I pulled in to add gas and was starting to uncap the tank when the
passenger window exploded in a thousand pieces. A good bit of glass
ended up on my wife but luckily she was not cut. I looked around for an
explanation...a kid with a slingshot, a WTO riot, a jealous MG owner but
realized I was just being paranoid as there was no one around.
I have some theories as to why the glass shattered. A PO had used trim
screws that were too long and proceeded to gouge the glass so it was in
a weakened state for many years. The glass was being held in the
channels with silicone, not the rubber glazing strips in the parts
books. I also found that the rivets holding the front vertical glass
channel to the bottom glass channel were loose. Could the rear edge of
the glass have moved out of the rear track and when rolling the window
up put a torsional load on the glass?
I would like to put it back together as stout as possible to avoid
another kaboom. I have checked the archives but if anyone has
suggestions would appreciate it.
Regards,
John
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:17:51 -0600
Subject: Re: questions
hi bill-
i handle the sale of badges, pins, books and videos for the austin healey club,
usa. the badge is $19 postpaid. we accept mc and visa or a check.
happy healeying,
jerry wall
Bill Pollock wrote:
>
>
> Question 1- My panhard bar has a bend in it on the drivers side about
> 15 inches in fromthe end. Is this bend suppose to be in it or should it
> be straight?
>
> Question 2-Does anyone know if either of our two national clubs sell
> badges to the members that mount on the front and if they do who would I
> contact?
>
> Thanks
> Bill Pollock
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From Dylan Tinker <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:14:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Hi -
I recently moved my BJ8 to Hong Kong from California.
It is very hot & humid here with lots of stop & go.
I've converted my car more or less to handle the stop
and go & heat by doing the following:
1) Installed a high capacity EXCEL core radiator
2) Installed a modern 6 bladed radiator fan (offset
style, moves more air than the stainless steel 6
bladed Hayden one I had on there before)
3) Installed a 160 degree thermostat.
In general the car runs cool, except when I get stuck
in traffic in 80 degrees plus, then it runs towards
boiling unless I keep the revs up.
My question:
Will installing an aluminum radiator help any? Some
people tell me this will make a big difference,
eventhough I have an EXCEL core on the car. Any
experience or suggestions?
By the way, I have experience installing electric
cooling fans on the radiator and I do not consider it
an option as the big pancake style fan motors restrict
too much airflow through the radiator at speed, and
actually decrease cooling efficiency.
I also have my doubts about the fan surround that
Kilmartin makes.... but no direct experience. Anyone?
Thanks for any thoughts/shared experience in advance.
Regards,
Alan Seigrist
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:16:07 EST
Subject: Re: Web site update
Derek,
Thanks for the pictures of an original early BN4. Very interesting and
helpful. My car is BN4 49069, built around November 57 at Longbridge. The
picture of the furflex on the door hinge pillar was useful. My furflex was
missing and I recently installed it all the way up to the dash as in the
photo, even though several people told me that it only went up to the top of
the kick panel in the early BN4. My car is also missing furflex around the
bottom edge of the dash. In your photo it doesn't look like there is any
furflex around the bottom edge of the dash? Is there suppose to be? Thanks.
John Soderling
100-Six Erika the Red
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From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:03:37 EST
Subject: Re: History Channel/ Austin Healey Documentary (Video)
I don't know when it will aire again, I was just simply putting a message out
there on the list to let folks know that there is a video available from the
History Channel.
///
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From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 23:13:25 EST
Subject: Re: Austin Healey Documentary (Where to Buy)
For anyone interested in the video, check out the following
http://store.historychannel.com/
(888) 423-1212
Item Number: AAE-40099 $19.95 + p/h
///
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From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:10:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
Now you've done it. You put the idea of inserting chips in newborns out
there on the web for all the crazies to see. But - if one thinks that the
idea has not already been broached, they are indeed naive.
Lets face it, some people think more highly of their pets than they do of
their children. To bring this back to 'Healey speak', I think we should
consider chips in our LBCs. Oh! Somebody already thought of that. Does
anyone have LOJAC installed in his or her Healey? ;-)
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys
Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:57 AM
Subject: RE: Closer to 1984?
> Okay... Let's take it one step further.. How about the idea of inserting a
> chip into newborns?.. that way you'd never lose them... and later in life
> you could always locate them when it's time for dinner.. We are already
> doing this with pets..
>
> This is depressing... let's get back to Healey speak..
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marge and/or Len Hartnett [mailto:thehartnetts@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 1:59 AM
> To: Healeys Mailing List
> Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
>
>
>
> This is one of those cases where there are two (or more)sides with valid
> arguments.
>
> On the one hand, this could be an extreme case of invasion of privacy and
> may
> even violate the U.S. Constitution. On the other hand, I look at it the
> same
> way as I look at radar detectors. If you ain't misbehavin', what are you
> worried about?
>
> On the third hand, it could save your life. I recall a news item not too
> long
> ago where a woman ran off the road and could not be seen from the highway.
> She was trapped in her car but was able to call 911 on her cell phone.
She
> could not describe where she was, however, and it took a long time for the
> authorities to find her.
>
> But, I'm against it being mandatory. Make it an optional item. Our
> government knows too much about us already.
>
> Len.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 12:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Closer to 1984?
>
>
> >
> > OK -- what about this for paranoia:
> >
> > The FCC is requiring next generation cell-phones to be able to indicate
> their
> > location (using GPS positioning) so that emergency calls to 911 can be
> > responded to expeditiously. What a great idea, except that what it
means
> is
> > that it will be possible for authorities (or others?) to determine
exactly
> > where you were when you made every cell phone telephone call.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
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From "Chris Venter" <chrisv at cyberserv.co.za>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:31:13 +0200
Subject: web site update/Rick Lees
Listers
Very interesting to see the pictures of Rick Lees's car and read the comments,
especially when they clarify issues for me, such as the non adjustable
passenger seat.
Does anybody know where I can source a set of the rubber door seals, those
which are mounted in the channel which is screwed to the aluminum kick
plates.What colour are the channels painted? Are they aluminum or body
colour?
(I am unable to source the rubber seals here in South Africa.)
My car which I have owned for 30 years is a BN4 built at Longbridge in July
1957.
Regards.
Chris.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:48:04 -0800
Subject: Califonia Healey Week
The Austin Healey Association, which is centered in the greater Los
Angeles area, is
hosting it's annual California Healey Week, starting Thursday, May 31,
2001 to and including
Sunday, June 3, 2001. This year the event will be held at the Rio Bravo
Resort, located just East of Bakersfield, CA.
Healeys from hundreds of miles around will gather for this event.
Events include:
a British Pub Night,
a drive up the Kern River Canyon to Kernville for lunch,
a dinner at a Basque Restaurant,
a "Popular Choice" show at the lodge,
remote car racing,
a panoramic drive through the Bakersfield area,
"Healey Feeley," (got to be there for that one!)
an awards banquet Saturday night,
a raffle brunch
and many other fun activities.
For more information or for a registration form please contact:
Ralph Comito, rcomito@uia.net or at 909.985.6481.
There's also a printable registration form at the Austin Healey Club of
San Diego's web site -
http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover/sdhealey/chw_registration.pdf
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From paul.geibler at wgint.com (Paul F Geibler)
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:41:29 -0500
Subject: ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
I purchased a 57 Austin Healey 100-6 with a 6 cylinder engine/trans that is
not in the car. The previous owner seized the original engine and this looks
to be a replacement engine. The engine NO. 68G267RS27806 is not correct for
the car. The engine has a trans. connected to it. The shifter is on the top
at the center. The car has come with an additional trans., which looks like
the correct trans. for the car. The shifter is on the side of the trans. Can
you give me any history on this engine. Will this engine fit a 100-6? Any
information is appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:34:47 -0500
Subject: Re: caliper pistons bj7
The original caliper pistons were chrome plated and once this chrome is rusted
through the pistons should not be used. The problem is that the
chrome will continue to peel off and will cut the caliper seals, these are
after all brakes that we are dealing with here....
Buy good quality replacements ... I would recommend stainless steel
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
barrfox1@netscape.net wrote:
> Can caliper pistons be saved with fine grit paper (600 +) or should I just
>get new ones. I'm looking at $30 per. Any better deals out there?
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:47:50 -0500
Subject: Web Site Update
Hi John,
Not sure where you are referring to with the furflex on the dash. Mine does
not have any on the black part of the dash or the white body color supports
on the ends, and looks like there never was any. I have some better pictures
if you would like them. The furflex does go all the way to the top in the
door opening.
Rick Lees
58 BN4
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From "Rick Lees" <rlees at rideshare.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:52:06 -0500
Subject: Web Site Update/Rick Lees
Hi Chris,
I do not know where to find replacement seals but I did look at the channels
that hold them and they do not seem to be aluminum, they almost look like
they were unfinished steel because mine are just a bare kind of rusty /black
color.
Rick Lees
58 BN4
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From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 06:55:30 -0700
Subject: Subject: Fitting an earlier exhaust on a BJ8?
Hi David,
I am doing this exact thing in the near future. I have a 66 BJ8 and have a
straight BJ7 Monza exhaust sitting in my shop waiting to go on. There will
be some flange welding and fabrication involved but no big deal I think. I
will do the work at the end of May probably. I am currently tied up
finishing building a cedar strip sea kayak right now.
If you wait a while I can give you specifics.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:14:00 -0500
Subject: Re: and I thought roll up windows were an upgrade...
Hi John,
The most common cause of breaking door glass is the screws used for securing the
chrome pull handle on the inside of the door. These were originally short and
did
not have a point on them. A common mistake is installing longer pointed self
tappers. The glass usually shatters when the door is slammed but we have heard
of
several cases in which the glass let go when it felt that the time was right.
Almost without question the gouge caused by the P O's efforts was the cause. I
don't think any of the other issues that you have mentioned would have
contributed significantly to the problem.
We have found that seating the glass in black silicone or better still urethane
is much more satisfactory than the original "Everseal" glazing rubber and had
this been available in 1963 I'm sure it would have been the material of choice.
BTW I would recommend that you replace the nylon window guides when you do the
glass if they show any signs of wear.
Hope this helps.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
John Loftus wrote:
> Took an early Sunday drive in the BJ7. My wife was in the passenger seat
> and rolled up the side window even though it was about 65 F. 5 minutes
> later I pulled in to add gas and was starting to uncap the tank when the
> passenger window exploded in a thousand pieces. A good bit of glass
> ended up on my wife but luckily she was not cut. I looked around for an
> explanation...a kid with a slingshot, a WTO riot, a jealous MG owner but
> realized I was just being paranoid as there was no one around.
>
> I have some theories as to why the glass shattered. A PO had used trim
> screws that were too long and proceeded to gouge the glass so it was in
> a weakened state for many years. The glass was being held in the
> channels with silicone, not the rubber glazing strips in the parts
> books. I also found that the rivets holding the front vertical glass
> channel to the bottom glass channel were loose. Could the rear edge of
> the glass have moved out of the rear track and when rolling the window
> up put a torsional load on the glass?
>
> I would like to put it back together as stout as possible to avoid
> another kaboom. I have checked the archives but if anyone has
> suggestions would appreciate it.
>
> Regards,
> John
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:17:43 -0600
Subject: NUTS!!!
Anyone know off hand the size of the rear axle nuts on a BN7? I need to
borrow a socket and I don't know the size. I tried to measure it while on
the wheel and it looks to be about 2 1/4" but I'm sure it's in MM and I
don't know what size that would be. TIA
Steve
61 BN7
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:20:31 -0600
Subject: Re: NUTS!!!
>Anyone know off hand the size of the rear axle nuts on a BN7?
Steve:
You are close on the size. The nuts are 2 3/16". They are not metric but
they are handed. There is a left and right. Once you remove them and
examine them closely, you can see that the right hand threaded nut is
stamped to indicate right hand thread.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Rallye
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From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:25:49 -0500
Subject: Re: NUTS!!!
"Kocik, Stephen W" wrote:
> Anyone know off hand the size of the rear axle nuts on a BN7? I need to
> borrow a socket and I don't know the size. I tried to measure it while on
> the wheel and it looks to be about 2 1/4" but I'm sure it's in MM and I
> don't know what size that would be. TIA
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
Hi Steve,
The bearing retaining nut on the later diff (BN2 on) is a 2 3/16" OCTAGONAL
nut.
Be careful... the left side one is a left hand thread. We run into a lot with
all
the corners removed through the judicious use of a cold chisel and attempting to
remove the nut in the traditional direction. ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:00:45 -0600
Subject: FW: British Motoring Club of Arkansas - Upcoming All-British
-----Original Message-----
From: Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:10 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: British Motoring Club of Arkansas, Upcoming All-British Car
Show
Dear Healey and Spridget Listers, if you're anywhere AT ALL NEAR Arkansas,
please consider our May 5th British car show in beautiful Hot Springs
National Park, Arkansas. Click on the link, then click on Events, then
click on May 5th. Everyone is welcome!!
http://www.bmcaonline.com/
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Fichter, Lew HSV Tecolote"
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:33:44 -0800
Subject: BUGEYE PARTS NEEDED
Need a shop manual that covers a '59 Bugeye plus the Sprite emblem that
attaches to the "trunk".
Can anyone help?
Please contact me off list.
Thanks
Lew Fichter
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:51:21 EST
Subject: Gaydon Archives and Museum
I had occasion this week to confirm updated information on the archives and
museum at Gaydon for a column I write for Sports Car Market Magazine.
I thought some of you on the list might be interested, so I've attached the
information below, and have also enclosed as an attachment a document they
emailed me. You're quite welcome to forward this to other British car lists,
if you think they'd be interested as well.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor and publisher
British Car Magazine
Question: With all the flurry of buying and selling of Rover and Land Rover
by BMW and Ford last year, what has happened to the British Motor Industry
Heritage Trust (BMIHT) and its museum and archives at Gaydon, in England?
Can I still get a production certificate for my British Leyland automobile?
Answer: We're pleased to say that when the dust settled, everything was
still in place. As you probably know, BMW sold Land Rover to Ford when it
gave MG and the Rover Group to a group of private investors. The Heritage
Motor Centre at Gaydon was built on property adjacent to Land Rover's
development center and test track, so there was some question about its
future. Soon after Ford's acquisition, Bob Dover was transferred from his
position of CEO of Aston Martin to become CEO of Land Rover, and was
prevailed upon by the BMIHT board to become chairman of the Heritage Trust.
When we talked to him in January at the Los Angeles auto show, he was very
happy about the whole thing, and as one of the great "car guys" is already
taking advantage of one of his perks by driving cars from the museum in
historic events, such as the London to Brighton run for veteran cars. The
museum is being broadened to include British marques that were not part of
British Leyland. You can get information on visiting the museum at
www.heritage.org.uk.
All archive services are still available. If you own an Austin, MG, Triumph,
Austin-Healey, Morris or other car manufactured by the British Motor
Corporation or British Leyland, you can get a production record certificate
by either writing to the Archive Department (Heritage Motor Centre, Banbury
Road, Gaydon, Warwick, CV35 0BJ) or by emailing them at
gbardsle@landrover.com. You need to tell them the make of your car and its
chassis number. They will research your car and send you a very nice
certificate listing serial numbers, production dates, accessories, and
shipping information for your car, if they have it on record. The cost of
the service is $40 and you can pay by giving your credit card number and
expiry date. Turn-around is from three to six weeks. Note, however, that
this organization is separate from the Jaguar-Daimler Heritage Trust, so
Gaydon can't help you with your Jaguar or Daimler. You'll also have to go to
different sources for Rolls Royce and Bentley.
<<attached: HERITAGE CERTIFICATES.doc>>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of HERITAGE CERTIFICATES.doc]
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From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:33:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaydon Archives and Museum
Nothing was mentioned about the ever abusive Anders D.C.. Can we still be
abused by him? Or has someone taken
his place?
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From "Dan Dienst" <dan.dienst at kewill.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:39:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Dylan,
It looks like you have done the obvious stuff. Overheating
at low RPMs suggests that either a) not enough coolant is
flowing through the block/radiator circuit or; b) not enough
air is flowing through the radiator core. I'm betting that
it is number 1.
You could verify which one it is by putting a temporary
temperature sensor on the radiator.
If at low RPMs the block is much higher in temperature than
the radiator, and you rev the engine and the block temp goes
way down then it is likely number one. In that case,
increasing the air flow will not likely help much. Make sure
that the block is clean and clear of internal obstructions.
Make sure that the belt is properly tightened (but not over-
tightened). Otherwise, has anyone out there ever heard of an
"increased-capacity-water-pump" for a Healey?
If, on the other hand, the radiator and block temperature
rise and fall pretty much together at all RPMs then you
probably have an airflow problem.
Dan
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:18:43 -0800
Subject: Test - Please delete
Test
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:38:23 EST
Subject: Re: Gaydon Archives and Museum
In a message dated 3/28/01 10:33:51 AM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
<< Nothing was mentioned about the ever abusive Anders D.C.. Can we still be
abused by him? Or has someone taken
his place? >>
Anders took the position of chief archivist at the Jaguar-Daimler Heritage
Trust Centre about six months before the Ford acquisition of Land Rover, and
he is still there. The two organizations do cooperate but I don't think he's
doing anything formally with BMIHT.
Cheers
Gary
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:43:05 EST
Subject: Check out 100/4 tool kit
healey tool kit on e bay
Click Here: <A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.aol.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=57
4437847">Templateaquaa</A>
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From "RANDALL NEVIS" <randallt at uswest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:57:50 -0800
Subject: Solvents
Would like some input regarding parts cleaning solvent. What works the best,
how much, what brand, and where to get it. Would like feed back regarding
what others use.
Thank you
Randall Nevis
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:04:28 -0800
Subject: how to pull engine/trans
Okay, well I know *how* to pull the engine and transmission out of the
vehicle, but I'm wondering how and where to hook the chain up. Can I just
make a couple of 6 inch angle iron pieces that can be bolted to the front
and back ends of the head, and then the chain attaches to the angle irons? I
know this thing is h*e*a*v*y, so I don't want to make any mistakes.
By the way, what's the weight on the engine AND transmission?
Thanks,
Brad
55 bn1 226796
http://bradw.com/
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 14:22:16 -0800
Subject: Re: and I thought roll up windows were an upgrade...
I've received 5 replies (mainly off list) about exploding side windows. It
appears that deep scratches from the handle and trim screws have been singled
out as the culprit. I appreciate the info as my remaining window is also
deeply scratched. I was planning to eventually replace
them for cosmetic reasons but now it's a safety issue.
Thanks all!
John
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From "RANDALL NEVIS" <randallt at uswest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 15:22:19 -0800
Subject: solvents
Would like some suggestions on what solvents are used out there in Healey
land. I have tried water based solvents and they work like*****. Question:
What are the better, how much, where to get.
Thank You All who reply
Randall
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:30:59 EST
Subject: Batch Number.....
Hi everyone,
I was recently contacted by a guy who wants to find out what his cars body
"batch" number. He is currently restoring a BN1, body #5188, BN1L 219176.
Can anyone on this list shed some light? Anyone own a BN1 produced close to
this one?
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
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From "J_L_Sims" <J_L_Sims at email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:32:19 -0500
Subject: E-Bay
Just surfed e-bay and noticed several haynes manuals and Glenns tune-up
guides.
While they are not as complete as some of the other reference materials, the
fotos in them (IMHO) make them worthwhile additions to anyone's library.
The prices seem to be very reasonable.
Just to let you know, I had one heck of a time several years getting these for
my library and now they seem to be available and in better condition. Go
figure.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:38:22 EST
Subject: Big Healey Rear End
Hi,
More questions than answers these days I guess. A freind has a big Healey
rear axle laying around his garage, and wants to know what the ratio is. Is
there a way to determine the ratio of the rear axle by the numbers stamped on
it?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:14:22 EST
Subject: Re: Furflex
I just recently installed mine so I don't know how well it will stay. I
contact cemented it to the sheet metal panel behind the kick panel and
installed the kick panel over it. At the top I loosened the windscreen frame
and tucked the edge of the furflex under (also applying contact cement) and
tightened the windscreen bolts down. Should hold.
John 100-Six Erika the Red
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:32:23 EST
Subject: Re: Web Site Update Furflex on 100-Six Dash
I was told that there is supposed to be furflex along the underside edge of
the dash except where the heater controls are. I just looked at a 100-six
dash on page 77 of John Heilig's Austin-Healey 100 & 3000 book and it clearly
shows the furflex around the dash bottom edge I'm not sure how it is mounted.
My dash bottom edge does not seem to have any mounting system.
John
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From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:33:07 -0600
Subject: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
Hi folks,
Why is it that a lot of engines (most?) drive their distributors off the
camshaft rather than the crankshaft? With the added slop of a timing chain
(small but non-zero), would it not be better to do a 2:1 reduction directly
off the crankshaft?
With modern computerized engines it doesn't matter, as the firing reference
comes off the crank but on older, non-electronic ones there's added
instability on timing.
Any historians in the group know why?
Thanks,
Adnan
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:04:01 -0500
Subject: Insurance advise.
I will be sending my Healey to a body shop shortly, I have a standard
special interest insurance policy through Condon Skelly, ie; St. Paul.
We have had a good relationship for twelve years. I plan to strip the
interior and deliver the Healey for body work and respray, St. Paul is
a little fuzzy about a rider and I would rather deal with them from an
informed position. Want to stay out of the Alligator pits.
Thanks in advance.
Jim D
60BT7
01 Harley Davidson T-Sport, yes the one with luggage included. Sturgis,
como no!
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 19:27:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Big Healey Rear End
. Is
>there a way to determine the ratio of the rear axle by the numbers stamped on
>it?
>
Scott:
Hold one of the axles in a fixed position. Turn the pinion flange. Count
the turns to make the non fixed axle rotate one time. Now you know the
ratio. Should be 3.54, 3.919 or 4.10.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
Dallas, TX
BJ8 Rallye
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:42:00 EST
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
In a message dated 3/28/01 7:34:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Trmgafun@aol.com
writes:
<< Anyone own a BN1 produced close to
this one? >>
Hey Scott--
I have BN1L222333, produced 12/54.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:44:46 EST
Subject: Re: Web Site Update Furflex on 100-Six Dash
In a message dated 3/28/01 4:35:42 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< I'm not sure how it is mounted.
My dash bottom edge does not seem to have any mounting system.
John >>
It just slides over the edge and is held in place with its spring-steel
internal core, the same way as the furflex on the door openings on the later
cars. In fact, to do mine, I just cut the rubber bulb off some door edging
and slid the furflex over the edge, with the cut rubber part hidden on the
inside of the dash.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 21:27:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
If you have the tag which states the body number, in this case 5188, the
batch number is the 4 digit number on the same plate, just preceeding 5188.
If his body tag is completely missing, BMIHT can fill in the blanks.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trmgafun@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:30 PM
Subject: Batch Number.....
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I was recently contacted by a guy who wants to find out what his cars body
> "batch" number. He is currently restoring a BN1, body #5188, BN1L 219176.
> Can anyone on this list shed some light? Anyone own a BN1 produced close
to
> this one?
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:30:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Big Healey Rear End
If the numbers are the fraction 11/43 the ratio is 3.9 and
11/39 for the 3.5 ratio.
Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> More questions than answers these days I guess. A freind has a big Healey
> rear axle laying around his garage, and wants to know what the ratio is. Is
> there a way to determine the ratio of the rear axle by the numbers stamped on
> it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
///
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/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:25:55 EST
Subject: paint codes?
Hello Listers I need some help on getting paint codes Healey Blue ( bu-2) and
Ivory White (WT-3) I would like to use base coat, clear coat NAPA (Martin
Senor) or PPG or others if there is a good match to original color. Any help
on where to find these paint mix codes would be greatly appreciated. What
paint is recomended, what have you had good luck with. What have the Concours
guys (and gals) used???????? Many thanks
Lanny
A-H BT7
///
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:47:39 -0500
Subject: Fw: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
-----Original Message-----
From: Edrick Adams <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: Trmgafun@aol.com <Trmgafun@aol.com>; Healeys@autox.team.net
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
>Scott,
>
>Possibly - my BN-1L is 227550, batch 5441, body #10025, bld date Aug
>15, 1955 Batch # is just above the body # on the fire wall tag.
>FYI, According to Clausanger batch # 5441 also was used for the
>initial run of BN-2s, including , presumably, the preproduction BN-2s
>which came before my car.
>
>All, Does anyone know the first body # in the 5441 Batch?? Was it
>10000?
>
>Ed A
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Trmgafun@aol.com <Trmgafun@aol.com>
>Subject: Batch Number.....
>
>
>>
>>Hi everyone,
>>
what his cars >body
>>"batch" number. He is currently restoring a BN1, body #5188, BN1L
>219176.
>>Can anyone on this list shed some light? Anyone own a BN1 produced
>close to
>>this one?
///
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From "Edrick Adams" <je.adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:00:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Insurance advise.
James,
When my car was restored, I sent photos and fresh appraisal to Condon
& Skelly . They basically accepted my appraisal/request for increased
coverage, no contest.
Ed A
-----Original Message-----
From: James B Dalglish <leaker@exit109.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: Insurance advise.
>
>I will be sending my Healey to a body shop shortly, I have a
standard
>special interest insurance policy through Condon Skelly, ie; St.
Paul.
>
>Jim D
>60BT7
///
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:33:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Web Site Update Furflex on 100-Six Dash
Gary,
The stuff I got a while back is not spring steel core. It is Al core. Is
this what they all are now?
Keith Pennell
> << I'm not sure how it is mounted.
> My dash bottom edge does not seem to have any mounting system.
> John >>
>
> It just slides over the edge and is held in place with its spring-steel
> internal core, the same way as the furflex on the door openings on the
later
> cars. In fact, to do mine, I just cut the rubber bulb off some door
edging
> and slid the furflex over the edge, with the cut rubber part hidden on the
> inside of the dash.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
///
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From "Jim Briske" <jbriske at onemain.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 20:44:52 -0800
Subject: BJ8 tunnel carpet
Does anyone have an original carpet with the flap for checking the trans oil
on the BJ8 ? Heritage Upholstery would like to borrow it to make a pattern.
Please contact me for details on sending it to them and safe return to you.
Thanks Jim Briske BJ8
///
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:49:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems BN6
Hello Listers,
My 2 cents:
My BN6 has been getting up to 200+ degrees on a 75 or 80 degree day so I did
the following:
1) replaced the thermostat with a "standard" one from Nock's--it had some
kinda US thermostat in it.
2) added the air baffles between the grille and the radiator, which were
missing.
3) added 6 blade stainless fan
4) removed radiator and backflushed with garden hose stream of water from
bottom through top--plenty of rust colored water came out that way.
5) replaced cap with new 1"-7 lb radiator cap.
Tested against gauge by putting a deep fry thermometer in the radiator and
running the car at a fast idle for about 20 min.
I observed the following:
1) in spite of the flush, the radiator tubes seemed occluded by at least
one-third by rust-colored mung. Radiator Arteriosclerosis.
2) the car got up to 190 on the gauge but the radiator got to 170 and stayed
this way idling in the garage in the evening (65 degree air temp). If half
the water gets through the radiator, that would explain why the fan is
cooling it down cooler than the engine--I don't know if radiators always are
cooler than the gauges or if they're supposed to be the same temperature.
3) the 6 bladed fan makes a noticeable fan noise--unpleasantly like my
wife's 240z. Certainly moves the air though. It's a scary mutha too, with no
shroud around it. I wonder if the electric fans are quieter.
4) driving today around town in 75 degree weather the gauge was above 190.
What I haven't done yet:
Haven't back flushed the block--want to figure a way to seal a garden hose
into the lower hose opening in the block and force all the water pressure up
through the block and out the thermostat opening.
Probably will have a radiator shop "rod out" the radiator tubes.
Will follow up on the list when this is done.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:52:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Dan--
The other day a guy told me about an inline electric thermostatically
controlled water pump that fits inline with your lower radiator hose.
Unfortunately, I have no idea where to get it. I checked the Pegasus catalog
and they don't sell it, but I bet off-road people use stuff like that.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Dan Dienst" <dan.dienst@kewill.com>
> Reply-To: "Dan Dienst" <dan.dienst@kewill.com>
> Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:39:40 -0500
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
>
> Otherwise, has anyone out there ever heard of an
> "increased-capacity-water-pump" for a Healey?
///
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From AGOrendi at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 02:24:17 EST
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Dylan,
Did you already check the thermostat? It should be the type with the sleeve,
which covers the recirculation bore when open. If a standard type thermostat
is fitted, a part of the coolant liquid will recirculate within the engine
block instead of passing the radiator.
Best regards.......Andreas (58 BN6)
///
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 03:08:32 EST
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems BN6
Just a note about flushing the block or radiator for that matter. The crud
that builds up in the lower block water jackets is amazing and is not easy
to remove by a simple flush. Even using block cleaning chemicals leaves large
amounts of the stuff in the passages. This stuff impedes the flow and the
cooling ability of the system. Short of a hot tanking during a rebuild, the
best way to clean it out of the block is to remove the side freeze (soft)
plugs and poke, scrape, rotor root and repeatedly flush the cooling system.
Unfortunately getting to most of the freeze plugs requires removal of some
items and some are not accessible with the engine in the chassis. As you
mentioned dismantling the radiator and rodding it out is the best way to
completely clean it.
Aloha
Perry
In a message dated 3/28/01 8:49:33 PM Hawaiian Standard Time,
sgerow@singular.com writes:
> What I haven't done yet:
> Haven't back flushed the block--want to figure a way to seal a garden hose
///
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 05:08:47 -0500
Subject: New Paint
Someone asked me what the numbers were for my new paint job---"Healey Blue".
PPG Deltron DBU base 3041, Diamond Blue Metallic. I love it.
tom
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From Flyhihealey at gateway.net
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 05:40:17 EST
Subject: Re: New Paint
Is there a match in paint for the Metallic Golden Beige?
Warren
67BJ8-MGB(color)
///
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 06:13:28 EST
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
In a message dated 3/29/01 12:09:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
hoyo@bellsouth.net writes:
<< And mine, BN1L222325..........................HoYo
>>
Howard--
Wow--we must have been almost adjacent on the line--my number is 222333!
Tubular....
Michael Oritt, BN1
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 07:20:53 EST
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
Hi Scott,
My BN1 is Body No 4299. Fairly close at BN1/219038.
It is RHD (therefore no L in the number) and was built on 2 September 1954
Pretty close to your BN1, body #5188, BN1L 219176
Rudy Streng
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 08:35:42 EST
Subject: Share the Spirit of the Healey Marque
Share the Spirit of the Healey Marque May 17-20 at Springthing 2001,
Lexington, KY. We already have registrations from eight states and a very
special guest, Gerry Coker, designer of the Austin Healey 100 and Bugeye.
Lexington is the center of the Thoroughbred Horse Racing Industry and a
veritable extravaganza of colorful people, exciting events and breathtaking
natural beauty. Our Gymkhana will be held at the famous Fasig Tipton Horse
Farm, then rally along the beautiful country roads amid the historic horse
farms of Kentucky. Special arrangements have been made for our group to tour
the Kentucky Horse Park.
With over 50 models of our marque on display we will also have a special
display of Healey Boats. Everyone is welcome, Clunkers to Concours. Car Show,
Gymkhana, FunKhana, BBQ, Tours, Banquet, Auction and more are all on the
weekends agenda.
This exciting location will be the setting for one of our best Healey Events
ever. Please make plans to join us. Visit the Springthing web site at
bluegrassclub.com or contact Mike Schneider for registration information at
502-896-2832 or email information@bluegrassclub.com. Space is limited so
please make your reservations soon.
Thank you,
James Werner
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
Louisville, KY
Visit our web site at BluegrassClub.com
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From Alan F Cross <AlanX at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 15:40:43 +0100
Subject: I need the sound of a Healey urgently!
Some time ago ( a year?) someone posted the sound of a Healey, because
he was concerned about a rattle (I think he called it rattle.wav or
somesuch).
I've been asked by a UK broadcaster if I can source a snippet of a
Healey sound for a broadcast - urgently of course. I have saved the
file, but have two questions..
Was this the sound of a 3000, and was it reasonably authentic? I seem to
remember most of you said it sounded fine.
Does any one know who'd sound this was - so that I can get his clearance
to offer this to the broadcaster?
Many thanks.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 10:14:01 -0500
Subject: Re; Gaydon Archives and Museum
Gary,
Could you have that web-site address wrong? My server couldn't find it.
Stephen BJ8
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 09:32:35 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
In a message dated 03/28/2001 8:33:22 PM Mountain Standard Time,
je.adams@worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
>Possibly - my BN-1L is 227550, batch 5441, body #10025, bld date Aug
>15, 1955 Batch # is just above the body # on the fire wall tag.
>FYI, According to Clausanger batch # 5441 also was used for the
>initial run of BN-2s, including , presumably, the preproduction BN-2s
>which came before my car.
>
>All, Does anyone know the first body # in the 5441 Batch?? Was it
>10000?
> >>
>From what Ed states, batches must have been pretty large -- maybe 200 cars or
more. My BN1 is batch 5441, body 9820, build date July 15, 1955.
It also is possible that what we're referring to as "batch" was really a P.O.
number. Batches of hundreds of cars were obviously shipped over an extended
period of time.
The comment quoted form Anders that suggests 5441 carried into the BN2s
intrigues me. Certainly we know of early BN2s that have BN1 wings on them,
front or rear. However, the frame was different for the change to the O'dr
mounting which, according to the parts book, occurred at C.E. 228047. So IF
late BN1s and early BN2s were built with the same batch (P.O. ??) number,
then this would indicate that the PO was for units built to different
specifications, which I would think unlikely. There could have been a few
"pre-production" BN2s done within this batch (P.O. ??) with the frame change
done "custom" to a few cars pulled from the main group and prior to ending
BN1 body production. Remember, the bodies were built up and painted at
Jensen, so these changes would be best done before the painting step.
Another possibility is for a few "BN1" bodies to be sent to Warwick for
changing and building up into the very early BN2s. These are only conjecture
thoughts -- no facts to back them up with.
Roger
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:12:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Re; Gaydon Archives and Museum
Works fine for me
John Slade
Tricarb
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:23:17 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
Roger
Our BN2 is chassis number 228086 with batch number 5441, body number 10145.
Car is fit with all the early BN2 parts but no crease on the rear fenders.
Aloha
Perry
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From "Pagel, John" <John.Pagel at imotors.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 08:45:40 -0800
Subject: RE: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Try racesearch.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 10:53 PM
To: Dan Dienst
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
Dan--
The other day a guy told me about an inline electric thermostatically
controlled water pump that fits inline with your lower radiator hose.
Unfortunately, I have no idea where to get it. I checked the Pegasus catalog
and they don't sell it, but I bet off-road people use stuff like that.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Dan Dienst" <dan.dienst@kewill.com>
> Reply-To: "Dan Dienst" <dan.dienst@kewill.com>
> Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:39:40 -0500
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Cooling Problems!! - BJ8
>
> Otherwise, has anyone out there ever heard of an
> "increased-capacity-water-pump" for a Healey?
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From "AH102" <ah102 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:53:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
> Hi Ed: Here is my BN1: Note that although the our serial numbers are
> consecutive, the body numbers are 60 apart! Whaazzzup?
>
> BN1L227549,
> Batch number 5441,
> Body number 9965.
> Soooo, 10000 was not the first of the batch. Wonder what was.....
>
> See you at Encounter 2001?
>
> Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edrick Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Trmgafun@aol.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: Fw: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Edrick Adams <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>
> To: Trmgafun@aol.com <Trmgafun@aol.com>; Healeys@autox.team.net
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 10:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Batch Number.....
>
>
> >Scott,
> >
> >Possibly - my BN-1L is 227550, batch 5441, body #10025, bld date Aug
> >15, 1955 Batch # is just above the body # on the fire wall tag.
> >FYI, According to Clausanger batch # 5441 also was used for the
> >initial run of BN-2s, including , presumably, the preproduction BN-2s
> >which came before my car.
> >
> >All, Does anyone know the first body # in the 5441 Batch?? Was it
> >10000?
> >
> >Ed A
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Trmgafun@aol.com <Trmgafun@aol.com>
> >Subject: Batch Number.....
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Hi everyone,
> >>
> what his cars >body
> >>"batch" number. He is currently restoring a BN1, body #5188, BN1L
> >219176.
> >>Can anyone on this list shed some light? Anyone own a BN1 produced
> >close to
> >>this one?
///
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From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 10:50:12 -0600
Subject: RE: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
Hi Tim,
Ignition occurs a little before TDC, at which point both intake and exhaust
valves have long been closed. Therefore it would seem unlikely that
ignition timing should be linked to valve position. Timing the flame front
is more critical with respect to piston position.
On the Healey engines, we not only have to deal with chain slop but also
distributor wear that affects dwell and the overall stability of the timing.
I'm sure we've all watched the timing dither around when observed with a
timing light.
Counterpoint?
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2001 7:55 AM
To: Merchant, Adnan
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
I have a theory! You would want to drive the ignition off the cam because
this drives the valves. Consequently, the spark will occurr when the valves
are closed, just like you would want. In this way, the ignition and valving
are linked together, and can never be out of phase. If the timing chain
were to slip, things could go badly in a hurry if these were not linked
together.
Just a theory. Open for discussion.
Tim Wallace
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:54:32 EST
Subject: Re: paint codes?
In a message dated 3/28/01 7:27:55 PM, SERVICAR1@cs.com writes:
<< What
paint is recomended, what have you had good luck with. What have the Concours
guys (and gals) used???????? Many thanks
Lanny
A-H BT7 >>
Most recently the best I've seen for both of those colors was mixed by Dick
Main of K&R or R&R Paints (I forget which) in Long Beach. Dick is a Healey
club guy and has gone to a lot of trouble to get good matches to all the
Healey shades. He mixes it for you and ships it, at pretty competitive
prices (I have no interests...he doesn't even advertise with us, so you'll
have to check old Healey magazines for his ads.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 12:04:41 EST
Subject: Re: Re; Gaydon Archives and Museum
In a message dated 3/29/01 7:09:03 AM, hutching@the-wire.com writes:
<<
Gary,
Could you have that web-site address wrong? My server couldn't find it.
Stephen BJ8 >>
Just tried it again -- works just fine for me on netscape:
www.heritage.org.uk
Make sure you added the UK at the end.
Cheers
Gary
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 09:55:40 -0800
Subject: Re: paint codes?
It's R&R Paint Supply, Inc.
5723 Atlantic Ave.
Long Beach CA 90805
phone (562) 428-3648
-Roland
On Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:54:32 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: Most recently the best I've seen for both of those colors was mixed by Dick
:: Main of K&R or R&R Paints (I forget which) in Long Beach.
///
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From "Alan Schultz" <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 15:53:38 -0600
Subject: BMC Service Manual
In going through the BMC Body Service Parts List AKD3524 for
Austin-Healey 3000 (Series BJ7 and BJ8) dated 1969, I can't find page
BH3 Windscreen Washer and Mirror. Does someone have that page in their
service manual and if so, is there someway to get a photocopy to me? I'm
willing to pay for your efforts. Contact me off list.
Thanks,
Alan
HBJ8L34297
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 17:37:41 EST
Subject: RE: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
Quite true... and I was expecting that response.
What I was thinking was that you could get the spark at 90 or 180 degrees out
of phase if driven off the crank. If driven off the cam, then it would always
be in line with what the valves are doing.
Additionally, If memory serves correctly, the cam turns at half the speed of
the crank. (i.e. once for every two rotations in a four stroke engine) This
would reduce the wear on the drive gear of the distributor as it would have to
turn half as many times when compared to the crankshaft driven one. Gears,
bearings and other widgets only have so many rotations in them for their life,
if you can keep these lower, then they last longer. Also speed had something
to do with this. The faster it turns, the more frictional heat it will
generate. Perhaps this is the true reason... parts life.
Tim
In a message dated Thu, 29 Mar 2001 11:52:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
"Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com> writes:
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> Ignition occurs a little before TDC, at which point both intake and exhaust
> valves have long been closed. Therefore it would seem unlikely that
> ignition timing should be linked to valve position. Timing the flame front
> is more critical with respect to piston position.
>
> On the Healey engines, we not only have to deal with chain slop but also
> distributor wear that affects dwell and the overall stability of the timing.
> I'm sure we've all watched the timing dither around when observed with a
> timing light.
>
> Counterpoint?
>
> Adnan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healybj8@aol.com [mailto:Healybj8@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2001 7:55 AM
> To: Merchant, Adnan
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
>
>
> I have a theory! You would want to drive the ignition off the cam because
> this drives the valves. Consequently, the spark will occurr when the valves
> are closed, just like you would want. In this way, the ignition and valving
> are linked together, and can never be out of phase. If the timing chain
> were to slip, things could go badly in a hurry if these were not linked
> together.
>
> Just a theory. Open for discussion.
>
> Tim Wallace
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 19:14:20 EST
Subject: Re: Batch Number.....incase the trailer kicked me out
In a message dated 03/29/2001 9:51:57 AM Mountain Standard Time,
ah102@home.com writes:
<<
> Hi Ed: Here is my BN1: Note that although the our serial numbers are
> consecutive, the body numbers are 60 apart! Whaazzzup?
> >>
The cars were built up more or less sequentially by body number. The build
datees and body numbers might be out of order by as many as 10-20, but htat's
about it, with very few exceptions.
HOWEVER, the chassis number on 100s was assigned from the engine number,
starting in Sept. 1954 with c.e. 219001. I've found a number (rather few in
total) instances where the chassis number on a car was built up mulch later
than adjecent ones. For example, c.e. numbers 2238xx were built up, for the
most part, in Jan. '55. However, there are a few 2238xz C.E. numbers on cars
built in MArch, May, and, in my car, even July '55. My car's body number is
right in sequence with other cars built in July, so it is obvious that the
chassis number was assigned to it based on the number ont he engine that was
being installed.
My car had a number of oddities that I think somehow are linked to the engine
being "shunted" from normal production for some 6 months. The rear O'dr
mounts had BSF threaded bolts, rather than UNF. Also, my gearbox and O'dr
were painted engine color (something which I have a photo to verify was done
on at least5 one new BN1 drive train, and have heard was done on a small
assortment of other BN1s). If anyone else out there has evidence of their
ORIGINAL BN1 gearbox/O'dr also being painted engien green, I'd be most
interested to know about their car.
Roger
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 20:00:53 -0500
Subject: Car Transport
Hello Folks,
If anyone needs transport from Orlando to the Lexington, KY. area in the
next month or
so, contact me off list. This will be via enclosed 20' trailer.
Heard Saxon
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 21:50:47 EST
Subject: Furflex on 100-Six Dash & British Car Editor Racing
Gary,
Thanks for the reply. The furflex I bought from Moss to place on the door
post next to the existing rubber seal (early BN4) has a hollow rubber bulb
wrapped by furflex and where the furflex joins it continues as a 1" cloth
tail for attachment. There is no metal core. The furflex you are referring
to must be different.
By the way, I enjoyed seeing you at the CSRG races Sunday at Sears Point
Raceway with your new MGA race car. It is a gorgeous red MGA. Both you and
the car looked very competitive on the track! Hope we will be reading about
your first race in the next issue of British Car magazine. You looked like
you were having a great time. Thanks for helping me photograph you great car.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 22:42:52 EST
Subject: Re: paint codes?
Many thanks to each and every one of you who responded to my request for
paint codes. I now have enough information to fill a book. (Watch out
Editor Gary.) Ha. You guys really came out of the woodwork on this one.
Thanks again.
Lanny Pace
60 BT7
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 00:48:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Dizzy and Cranky at the same time
Actually I think you are close to the answer. The main reason for wanting to
keep the distributor speed down is to allow more point dwell time so the coil
has time to develop a strong enough magnetic field to provide a useful spark.
Also, the faster the points are required to open and close the harder it is to
get them to follow the cam (inertial forces) and I believe this is a second
order function so doubling the speed squares the problem.
Distributorless ignition systems get around this problem by providing a
separate coil for every one or two cylinders so instead of the coil having to
fire three times every revolution (for a 6 cylinder) it only has to fire once.
Bill Lawrence
Healybj8@aol.com wrote:
>
> < the cam turns at half the speed of the crank. (i.e. once for every two
>rotations in a four stroke engine) This would reduce the wear on the drive
>gear of the distributor as it would have to turn half as many times when
>compared to the crankshaft driven one. Gears, bearings and other widgets only
>have so many rotations in them for their life, if you can keep these lower,
>then they last longer. Also speed had something to do with this. The faster
>it turns, the more frictional heat it will generate. Perhaps this is the true
>reason... parts life.>
>
> <Tim.>
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 10:12:13 +0100
Subject: Re: ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Paul.,
Following up our mails, I rang BMIHT (British Motor Industry Heritage Trust)
this morning to see what they knew.
The story is as follows:
68 G means that it is a Unipart ( formerly BMC parts organisation) Gold Seal
replacement engine for a 29D - 29K series engine (ie 3000 series engine). So far
so good. However .... they can't find 267 in their list either of Unipart
components or in a BMC list of replacement parts. There are numbers close but no
exact match. So it may be that there is a mistake in the number you gave.
According to them it definitely isn't the C-series A110 replacement engine which
would be 263. It is also DEFINITELY not a 26D ie 2.6L or 1C replacement
In the meantime I have contacted Unipart and they are going to look into it
further to see if their archives can give any further info.
As to whether it will fit a 100-6, there are plenty of people around with 3000
engines in 100-6s....and it was a common upgrade at the time in the early
sixties - and late 59. Even the works rally team did it - I am researching that
car.
My advice would be to take it, but probably not to pay more for it than you have
to. The transmission sounds later...but whether it was bought at the same time
as the engine I doubt whether anyone will be able to tell you until we get
better info from Unipart or elsewhere.
Best regards,
Peter Dzwig
Paul F Geibler wrote:
> Peter,
> Thanks for the quick reply. My best guess is that it came from another
> British car for which I am trying to identify.
> It may be possible that I have a character mixed up like an s for a 5, but
> otherwise this is the numbering method on the metal plate located on the
> block. I will double check the number and I am going to look for other
> markings that may be helpful in identifying the engine. This engine looks
> very similar to an Austin 100/6 engine based on the picture
> I have seen.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Dzwig [mailto:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 8:38 AM
> To: Paul F Geibler
> Subject: Re: ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
>
> Paul,
>
> Odd number. Are you sure of all the characters? I wonder whether it came
> from
> another car (A90, A105, A95 or some such) in the BMC range originally
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> Paul F Geibler wrote:
>
> > I purchased a 57 Austin Healey 100-6 with a 6 cylinder engine/trans that
> is
> > not in the car. The previous owner seized the original engine and this
> looks
> > to be a replacement engine. The engine NO. 68G267RS27806 is not correct
> for
> > the car. The engine has a trans. connected to it. The shifter is on the
> top
> > at the center. The car has come with an additional trans., which looks
> like
> > the correct trans. for the car. The shifter is on the side of the trans.
> Can
> > you give me any history on this engine. Will this engine fit a 100-6? Any
> > information is appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 14:17:14 -0600
Subject: Not LBC related but funny
This was sent to me from my cousin.. I thought it was one of the funnier
things I've read in a while ..Enjoy
Subject: Chili Cookoff "very funny"
Notes From An Inexperienced Chili Taster Named FRANK, who was visiting
Texas from the East Coast:
"Recently I was honored to be selected as a judge at a chili cook-off.
The
original person called in sick at the last moment, and I happened to be
standing there at the judge's table asking directions to the beer wagon
when the call came. I was assured by the other two judges (Native
Texans) that
the chili wouldn't be all that spicy, and besides, they told me I could
have free beer during the tasting, so I accepted. Here are the
scorecards from
the event:
Chili # 1: Mike's Maniac Mobster Monster Chili
JUDGE ONE: A little too heavy on tomato. Amusing kick.
JUDGE TWO: Nice, smooth tomato flavor. Very mild.
FRANK: Holy shit, what the hell is this stuff? You could remove dried
Anita
from your driveway. Took me two beers to put the flames out. I hope
that's
the worst one. These Texans are crazy.
Chili # 2: Arthur's Afterburner Chili
JUDGE ONE: Smoky, with a hint of pork. Slight Jalapeno tang.
JUDGE TWO: Exciting BBQ flavor, needs more peppers to be taken
seriously.
FRANK: Keep this out of reach of children! I'm not sure what I am
supposed
to taste besides pain. I had to wave off two people who wanted to give
me the
Heimlich maneuver. They had to rush in more beer when they saw the look
on
my face.
Chili # 3: Fred's Famous Burn Down the Barn Chili
JUDGE ONE: Excellent firehouse chili! Great kick. Needs more beans.
JUDGE TWO: A beanless chili, a bit salty, good use of red peppers.
FRANK: Call the EPA, I've located a uranium spill. My nose feels like I
have been snorting Drano. Everyone knows the routine by now, get me more
beer
before I ignite. Barmaid pounded me on the back; now my backbone is in
the
front part of my chest. I'm getting shit-faced from all the beer.
Chili # 4: Bubba's Black Magic
JUDGE ONE: Black bean chili with almost no spice. Disappointing.
JUDGE TWO: Hint of lime in the black beans. Good side dish for fish or
other mild foods, not much of a chili.
FRANK: I felt something scraping across my tongue, but was unable to
taste
it, is it possible to burn-out taste buds? Sally, the bar maid, was
standing behind me with fresh refills; that 300 lb. bar maid is starting
to look
HOT, just like this nuclear-waste I'm eating. Is chili an aphrodisiac?
Chili # 5: Linda's Legal Lip Remover
JUDGE ONE: Meaty, strong chili. Cayenne peppers freshly ground, adding
considerable kick. Very impressive.
JUDGE TWO: Chili using shredded beef; could use more tomato. Must admit
the
cayenne peppers make a strong statement.
FRANK: My ears are ringing, sweat is pouring off my forehead and I can
no
longer focus my eyes. I farted and four people behind me needed
paramedics.
The contestant seemed offended when I told her that her chili had given
me
brain damage. Sally saved my tongue from bleeding by pouring beer
directly
on it from a pitcher. I wonder if I'm burning my lips off? It really
pisses me
off that the other judges asked me to stop screaming. Screw those
rednecks!
Chili # 6: Vera's Very Vegetarian Variety
JUDGE ONE: Thin yet bold vegetarian variety chili. Good balance of spice
and peppers.
JUDGE TWO: The best yet. Aggressive use of peppers, onions, and garlic.
Superb.
FRANK: My intestines are now a straight pipe filled with gaseous,
sulfuric
flames. I shit on myself when I farted and I'm worried it will eat
through
the chair. No one seems inclined to stand behind me except that slut
Sally,
she must be kinkier than I thought. Can't feel my lips anymore. I need
to
wipe my ass with a snow cone!
Chili # 7: Susan's Screaming Sensation Chili
JUDGE ONE: A mediocre chili with too much reliance on canned peppers.
JUDGE TWO: Ho Hum, tastes as if the chef literally threw in a can of
chili
peppers at the last moment. I should note that I am worried about
Judge Number 3. He appears to be in a bit of distress as he is cursing
uncontrollably.
FRANK: You could put a grenade in my mouth, pull the pin, and I wouldn't
feel a damn thing. I've lost the sight in one eye, and the world sounds
like it
is made of rushing water. My shirt is covered with chili which slid
unnoticed
out of my mouth. My pants are full of lava-like shit to match my damn
shirt. At least during the autopsy they'll know what killed me. I've
decided to
stop breathing, it's too painful. Screw it, I'm not getting any oxygen
anyway.
If I need air, I'll just suck it in through the 4 inch hole in my
stomach.
Chili # 8: Helen's Mount Saint Chili
JUDGE ONE: A perfect ending, this is a nice blend chili, safe for all,
not
too bold but spicy enough to declare its existence.
JUDGE TWO: This final entry is a good, balanced chili, neither mild nor
hot.
Sorry to see that most of it was lost when Judge Number 3 passed out,
fell over and pulled the chili pot down on top of himself. Not sure if
he's
going to make it. Poor Yank, wonder how he'd have reacted to a really
hot chili?
FRANK: --------------(editor's note: Judge #3 was unable to report.)
Guess he should of ordered a Texas Kooler .... ;-0
Steve
61BN7
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From Fred ooman <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 15:04:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2 questions
1. I have a BJ8 and would like to convert it to negative ground. Where can I
find online instructions on how to accomplish this goal?
2. All this email is difficult for me to wade through, I'm much more
comfortable dealing with a bulletin/forum type environment. I think the linear
format makes it much easier to follow threads that interest you and ignore
those that don't. Plus they're pretty much "real time" which is a big
advantage. Does such a forum exist for Healey discussions? If not is there
enough interest to start one? I'd be more than happy to construct and manage
one if the need is there.
KP
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 16:19:44 -0800
Subject: Re: 2 questions
Fred-
1. Have you looked at www.team.net/sol/tech to see if there are any
tech articles on this subject? Also, if you can search the back
records of the Healeys list (possible through www.team.net on
Listserv) you will find several postings that detail this info. I
will look through my personal files and forward copies of any I find.
Norman Nock has published a file of his tech articles including pos to
neg ground switching. Many back issues of Austin Healey Magazine and
Healey Marque/Chatter have dealt with this.
2. Consider subscribing to Healeys in digest form. That way you will
get one or two emails daily and can wade through them more neatly.
I don't know what you mean by 'bulletin/forum type environment', but
if it is a newsgroup I am not interested. The mailing list format
that Healeys and many other automotive lists use is more private --
reducing by at least an order of magnitude the amount of spam stirred
up by posting a message. You know that every spammer in the world is
scooping up the email addresses from the newsgroups daily. I don't
find the use of an anonymizer appealing. I am trying to communicate
with fellow Healey owners, and an anonymous untraceable pseudonym just
doesn't fit with that. I like 'Healeys' just the way it is.
YMMV,
-Roland
On Fri, 30 Mar 2001 15:04:23 -0800 (PST), Fred ooman
<KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
::
:: 1. I have a BJ8 and would like to convert it to negative ground. Where can
:I find online instructions on how to accomplish this goal?
::
::
:: 2. All this email is difficult for me to wade through, I'm much more
:comfortable dealing with a bulletin/forum type environment. I think the
:linear format makes it much easier to follow threads that interest you and
:ignore those that don't. Plus they're pretty much "real time" which is a big
:advantage. Does such a forum exist for Healey discussions? If not is there
:enough interest to start one? I'd be more than happy to construct and manage
:one if the need is there.
::
:: KP
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 22:11:59 -0500
Subject: Paint buffing
Listers,
During the time of the resto of the BN7 I seriously neglected the BJ8. All
sorts of matter (including flying debris from the cutoff grinder on one
occasion) got on and in the paint. The car was painted OEW in 91 with a
Sherwin-Williams base/clear system.
I am considering the purchase of a buffer and plan to buff the paint finish.
What recomm for the buffing compounds and glazes do you have out there? Any
words of wisdom about technique?
Thanks for your input ya'll.
Keith Pennell
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 19:26:53 -0800
Subject: April 7th Rally AND Krispy Kreme donuts
This is the last e-mail you will receive about this rally!
In order to offer the biggest enticement that we can think of the Rally
Mistress has authorized the purchase of Krispy Kreme donuts for this
event. Now if that wont get you there there is no hope!
Update: any registration received after 5.00 PM April 4th or at the
event will be at $50.00 for two people, so sign up early and save money
and save us the headaches. Also day of the event sign ups may or may not
get lunch due to the logistics involved (she is so cruel).
We now have 42 cars registered for this event and expect at least five
more cars.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
Rally
Saturday, April 7, 2001, is the date for the Greatest Austin Healey
Rally to ever start at the world famous Petersen Automotive Museum in
Los Angeles. (Okay, it's the first Austin Healey Rally to start at the
Petersen, but in any case you can be part of this event!) The Austin
Healey Association (of Southern California) is sponsoring this rally in
conjunction with the Austin Healey Club of San Diego and the Austin
Healey Club of Southern California.
The event will start on the roof top parking lot of the Petersen Museum
located at the SEC of Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard in West Los
Angeles, a few miles north of the 10 Freeway, at 8.00 AM on Saturday
April 7, 2001.
Here's the plan, Healeys will be lined up by classes:
100's, 100/6, 3000 roadsters, 3000 convertibles, Modified, Sprites,
Jensen-Healeys.
>From 8.00 AM to 9.00 AM the cars will be lined up as they enter the
parking lot. At the same time coffee and donuts will be provided.
>From 9.00 AM to 10.00 AM, there will be a Popular Choice judging by
class. While this event is going on, Rally participants may wander into
the Petersen Museum and view some of the exhibits that will be opened
exclusively for our group on that morning.
At 10.15 AM we will have a drivers meeting and at 10.30 AM the cars will
begin to leave on the Rally from the Petersen Museum to a final
destination in Malibu. We envision that the cars would leave 60 seconds
apart. The goal would be for all cars to be on the road in under one
hour. We have made a preliminary drive of the course and it is
approximately 70 miles long and the route taking about 2 hours to
complete. This will be a time and question rally. (More on this later).
At the finishing point we will have lunch and determine the winners.
Assuming people arrive in 2 hours they would arrive between 12.30 and
1.30.
The entry fee for two people, of $35.00 for club members, $40.00 for non
club members and $50.00 after April 4th, will include early morning
coffee and donuts, an early morning admission into the museum, and a
lunch: sandwiches, salads, sodas, and pie. It will also include two free
passes for admission into the Petersen Museum at any later date before
the end of 2001.
Who can come, what to drive:
The Rally is open to EVERYONE but especially all members of the Austin
Healey Association, Austin Healey Club of San Diego, Austin Healey Club
of Southern California, AHCUSA, and the Petersen Museum Checkered Flag
200 members. Members of these groups are encouraged to bring their
Healeys, and their friends, but can enter ANY car for the Rally.
(Everyone is welcome to come and see the cars). You do need a navigator.
Return e-mail to me for an entry form.
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols, Rally Masters
Ron Rader 310.306.6060 Rader@interworld.net
Debi Nichols 310.306.6062 dnichols@pacificacapitalgroup.com
Fax 310.306.2329
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From GLOWNSDALE at aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 22:41:36 EST
Subject: Re: 2 questions
Fred,
The March issue of the Healey Marque magazine contains an excellent
technical article written by Allen Hendrix on the steps required to convert
your Healey from positive ground to negative. If you are not a member of the
AHCA, let me know. I would be pleased to send you a copy of the magazine
with the article.
With Best Regards,
Gary Lownsdale
President, Austin Healey Club of America
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From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 23:09:21 -0500
Subject: slave cylinder bleedig
This has got to be an age old question, but... I'm new on the block.
I rebuilt the slave cylinder, remounted it and found to bleed it that I needed
an arm like a snake with ratchet mouth... plus maybe a couple of universals and
a crowsfoot attached.
Is this just life? ...am I being punished ?... or is there a trick?
Bill
BJ7
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From HealeyAuto at aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 00:20:59 EST
Subject: Re: April 7th Rally AND Krispy Kreme donuts
In a message dated 03/31/2001 3:29:35 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Rally Mistress has authorized the purchase of Krispy Kreme donuts for this
event. >>
The First Krispy Kreme donut shop has just opened in Denver. First day the
line was 3 hours long...All day. Last night a few of us had a regular poker
night and one of us had to go buy Krispy Kreme to get home. So, he slyly
figured, I'll just go by there at 11:30 PM and pick some up. He got of the
highway and drove past viewing the 100 + cars in the parking lot and the 3
hour long line...
They are selling 240,000 donuts per day and figure that will last through the
first 30 days. Gee, that is only 7,200,000 donuts...
Does that mean you have to start your rally 3 hours early? Or just the Rally
Mistress?
Have fun!
Richard
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 00:47:22 EST
Subject: Re: slave cylinder bleedig
Bill
Bleed the slave before you mount it on the bellhousing. I use the "bubble
method" on the big Healey slaves. Save yourself some grief and rebuild the
master at the same time. Bleed the majority of the air out of the master
before installing it. Get all the hydraulics hooked up on the rebuilt or new
master and slave, fill the clutch reservoir, crack open the bleeder and
manipulate the slave around until the bleeder is the highest (vertically)
part of the slave. You want to get the air out of the cylinder. As the system
fills there will be bubbles that start to exit the bleeder. Watch carefully
and the bubbles will stop and clear fluid will be exiting the bleeder. Close
the bleeder and mount it on the bellhousing. Install the push rod, clevis and
cotter pin and your done. Not exactly the answer to your question but easier
that pulling the interior out of your car to gain access.
Aloha
Perry
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From "M.E.&E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 17:33:33 -0600
Subject: Re: 2 questions
Fred
To your second suggestion no, if you're not happy unsubscribe. I
have seen this suggested on two other car lists with the demise
of both lists. I've been on this list for almost three years, it
functions very well as currently structured.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 08:11:16 EST
Subject: Re: April 7th Rally AND Krispy Kreme donuts
In a message dated 03/31/2001 12:24:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
HealeyAuto@aol.com writes:
<< He got of the
highway and drove past viewing the 100 + cars in the parking lot and the 3
hour long line... >>
Wow! They sure must have bigger parking lots in Denver than they do here.
That or they had the cars stacked 4 high if its like the typical KK we have
here in the south. :o)
I guess you all up north are finally finding out about our donoughts. Now if
you could get a decent biscuit for breakfast instead of those natty bagles.
;o)
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 09:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: slave cylinder bleedig
Bill,
I agree with Perry that the easiest way to bleed the slave cylinder is to
dismount
it. Even if you bend up a special wrench to reach the bleeder it's still
very difficult to get a hose onto it with the cylinder in place. One thing
to bear in mind, though:
bleeding the dismounted cylinder will generally move the piston to the limit
of its
travel in the bore. You will have to push the piston back a bit to fit the
pushrod
and clevis pin, so make sure the reservoir is NOT full when you do this or
else
brake fluid will overflow the reservoir and mess up your paint.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <barrfox1@netscape.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 11:09 PM
Subject: slave cylinder bleedig
>
> This has got to be an age old question, but... I'm new on the block.
>
> I rebuilt the slave cylinder, remounted it and found to bleed it that I
needed an arm like a snake with ratchet mouth... plus maybe a couple of
universals and a crowsfoot attached.
>
> Is this just life? ...am I being punished ?... or is there a trick?
>
> Bill
> BJ7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 10:19:06 -0500
Subject: Re: slave cylinder bleedig
> This has got to be an age old question, but... I'm new on the block.
>
> I rebuilt the slave cylinder, remounted it and found to bleed it that I
needed an arm like a snake with ratchet mouth... plus maybe a couple of
universals and a crowsfoot attached.
>
> Is this just life?
Yes.
...am I being punished ?
Yes.
... or is there a trick?
No. I have found that attaching a 15=20 inch length of rubber hose feeding
a 2L bottle is helpful. Also, works easier if you remove the tranny tunnel,
but I know you don't want to do that! :)
Keith Pennell
>
> Bill
> BJ7
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From Healybj8 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 11:27:59 EST
Subject: Re: slave cylinder bleedig
In a message dated 03/31/2001 10:21:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
<< ... or is there a trick? >>
Actually, I have never had much trouble bleeding the slave cyllinder. I
bought one of those easy-bleed kits from moss years ago, and that really
works well! Getting to the bleeder is still tough, but once this thing is
hooked up, just attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder, and the pressure
from the kit forces everything through. Open the bleeder, when the bubbles
stop, close it. No opening and closing the bleeder. No need for a helper.
Tim Wallace
'67 BJ8
Fuquay-Varina, NC
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From Alan Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 17:34:14 +0100
Subject: Recommended tyre pressures?
I know this has been asked before, but I'm getting no response from
ListQuest.
What are the generally recommended pressures for a BJ8 running on
radials for 'normal' road use?
In my case I'm using Firestone (!) F560 165R15 (ie not low profile).
Thanks in anticipation.
Alan F Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny"
See the UK national Austin Healey Club at:
www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 12:48:21 -0500
Subject: carburetter removal
listers:
I'm in need of guidance. How do I remove the lower nut, holding the
carb. to the two port head on my early Bn-4. Do I remove the intake
manifold? Is there a special tool? In my shop manual it refers to the
later Bn-4. I'm sure they built the car around the carbs.
Thanks much.......Dennis Broughel Bn-4 --45281
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 16:31:05 -0500
Subject: carburetter removal- amendment
listers:
sorry for the extra message about removing the carbs. I didn't mean to
remove the intake manifold, I should have said, do I have to remove the
exhaust manifold to get at the bottom nut on the carbs. Sorry but its
all about being left handed
Thanks.... Dennis Broughel Bn4--45281
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From "Dan Corning" <d-corning at home.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 16:10:26 -0600
Subject: Heat Shield Replacment Material
Hello List,
I have taken your advice and I am carefully removing the asbestos from the
carburetor heat shield and replacing it with new material. (By the way,
thanks for the suggestions!)
I am now looking for the supplier that offers the most realistic looking and
best (non- asbestos) replacement material. Any experience?
Dan Corning
Nashville, TN
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From Sprite60 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 00:22:52 EST
Subject: Re: plates
on my 60 Sprite FROGEYE (NJ) LARRY G
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