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w58 transmission

Subject: w58 transmission
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 06:57:27 -0500
lance
54bn1

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 07:04:47 EST
Subject: Re: w58 transmission


> Does anyone still have the email which listed the range of Toyota pick-up
> years which had the trans. suited for a bn1?  Thought I saved it, but its
> gone.  Thanks!
> 
> 

Lance--

If you're referring to the UK file, go to: 
www.austinhealeyclub.co.uk/tech_toyota.html.
If you want to see a Smitty's installation in a BN1 give me a call.  You're 
not that far from me--I am less than an hour south of Annapolis.

Best--Michael

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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 09:05:50 -0500
Subject: Re: w58 transmission

Here is an additional website to those that came up before that gives some
information. http://www.dtcomponents.com/toyotaldt.htm    It is DT Components 
who
are associated with Timken, the bearing company, and supply rebulid kits for
transmissions.  This is a list of all of the Toyota trannys with their rebuild
kit number.
Several of the trannys with numbers similar to W58 (W55, 56, etc.) use the same
rebuild kit.
Perhaps that means that the trannys are very similar.  It does list the truck
trannys here along with the year.  If you happen to do more research and find 
out
some good information, please let the list know.  Thanks.

Happy New Year,
Charlie

Lance Werner wrote:

> Happy New Year All:
> Does anyone still have the email which listed the range of Toyota pick-up
> years which had the trans. suited for a bn1?  Thought I saved it, but its
> gone.  Thanks!
>
> lance
> 54bn1

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 06:41:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

I doubt very seriously if there are Healey owners out
there who, if they couldn't get a BJ8, would not get
any Healey. I could be wrong.  

By the way--which one is the "apples":):)

Cheers
tom
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> I think we are talking apples and oranges here.
> Those that prefer the
> earlier cars are looking for something different
> than those that prefer the
> older cars. The former, (and I include myself in
> this category ), are in
> love with the simplicity and clean lines and a hard
> to define 'sportiness'
> and don't care much if the windows roll up or if it
> has a few extra
> horsepower. The latter, see the evolved product of
> many years of progress
> and design work and like the added creature
> comforts, more power and
> smoother handling. I don't think you can compare the
> two. It's like
> Brunettes and Blondes. Some like one and some like
> the other but they are
> both wonderful. It's just a good thing we don't all
> like the same ones or
> there would be real trouble. Cheers, JL
> 
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> BT7 Tri-carb

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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 12:16:23 -0500
Subject: od plug removal

Bill Pollock

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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:44:00 -0500
Subject: New Engine seeping coolant from Head Gasket

I am about to start the engine after a rebuild, and after adding 1 gallon of
coolant and 1 gallon of water, I have noticed a slow drip of water from the
head gasket right above the #4 spark plug. I have not started the engine, so
this is leaking cold from a freshly rebuilt engine and head.

I did put the head on with copper head gasket sealant and followed a standard
head torque pattern, so I'm a bit confused.

Could this be something that is just leaking until the engine warms up and the
head seats correctly? Or am I just fooling myself and need to pull the head
and start over.

Pretty disappointed here in frozen Connecticut. I suspect the answers will be
the obvious... pull the engine and retorq the head with a new head gasket.

Ryan
BJ7

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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate

To holders of the six cylinder Registries - where do your model batches
range from?  It kinda looks like each model starts from scratch for batch
#s?  Is it possible, by coincidence, to have two or three different model
cars with the same body/batch numbers?  If not, why not?  Am I asking dumb
questions here and there's something obvious that I've just not seen or been
exposed to?

Ed Adams  ( je.adams@att.net )
A-H 100 Registry
Member:  AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
BN-1L 227550


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, 30 December 2002 2:26 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Batch/Body # plate
>
>
>I have a batch/body plate that I believe would be proper for a 4-cylinder
>car
>or a BN4.  It has the batch number on the top line (w/no model
designation )
>
>and the body number on the second, offset to the right.  The numbers are
the
>
>large size, incised.
>The plate is identical to the one shown in the upper photograph on page 88
>of
>Clausinger's book.
>
>The numbers are 3194/541.  If someone owns the car to which this plate
>belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
>plate.
>
>Best--Michael Oritt

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:59:30 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate


> Interesting!  541 falls very solidly  into Batch # 4407 judging from what's
> in the 100 Registry I'm maintaining.  October '53 would be about right,
> probably in the third or fourth week, for build date at Austin.
> 
> 

I received an email from Mell Ward, keeper of the 6-cylinder registries for 
the UK clubs.  She told me that she had a BN4 registered with that batch 
number and a body number very close to it.  So, the mystery as to why it does 
not fit into 100 data is solved--the plate is, as I suspected, for a BN4 and 
only awaits the appearance of its rightful owner.  

Best to all--Michael Oritt

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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 13:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: od plug removal

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Pollock" <wjpollock@erols.com>
To: "list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 12:16 PM
Subject: od plug removal


> Does anyone have a source for the wrench or socket to remove the large
> brass drain plug on the ods.  Moss use to sell them but they are not in
> their last catologe that I can found nor on their web site.
> Thanks
>
> Bill Pollock

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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 13:52:03 -0500
Subject: Identification No. on Healey 100 guages

I have been cleaning up some early BN1 gauges over the holidays, and 
noticed while I was carefully cleaning the backs of the gauges that 
three of them seem to have an identification number stamped in black 
ink on the back of them.  The speedometer, tachometer, and fuel gauge 
all have the same number stamped on them, the "safety gauge" (oil and 
water temp) does not. This number does not seem to bear any reference 
to the car, or chassis number.  In this particular case the number 
stamped on the back appears to be "0361".

I have not come across this in any of the books that I have on 100s, 
nor in Roger and Gary's excellent book.  I was just wondering if any 
other Healey 100 enthusiasts out there have come across or can 
confirm these identification numbers.

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year,
Richard

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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 15:58:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Identification No. on Healey 100 guages

I'm guessing that they are inspector numbers




Sincerely

Rick Neves
----- Original Message -----

  From: Richard Wegner
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 1:52 PM
  Subject: Identification No. on Healey 100 guages


  Hi folks,

  I have been cleaning up some early BN1 gauges over the holidays, and
  noticed while I was carefully cleaning the backs of the gauges that
  three of them seem to have an identification number stamped in black
  ink on the back of them.  The speedometer, tachometer, and fuel gauge
  all have the same number stamped on them, the "safety gauge" (oil and
  water temp) does not. This number does not seem to bear any reference
  to the car, or chassis number.  In this particular case the number
  stamped on the back appears to be "0361".

  I have not come across this in any of the books that I have on 100s,
  nor in Roger and Gary's excellent book.  I was just wondering if any
  other Healey 100 enthusiasts out there have come across or can
  confirm these identification numbers.

  Wishing everyone a Happy New Year,
  Richard

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From "May Steven Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed,  1 Jan 2003 14:32:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate

Happy Healey New Year to all!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Reply-To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Date:  Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:52:06 -0500

>To holders of the six cylinder Registries - where do your model 
batches
>range from?  It kinda looks like each model starts from scratch 
for batch
>#s?  Is it possible, by coincidence, to have two or three 
different model
>cars with the same body/batch numbers?  If not, why not?  Am I 
asking dumb
>questions here and there's something obvious that I've just not 
seen or been
>exposed to?
>
>Ed Adams  ( je.adams@att.net )
>A-H 100 Registry
>Member:  AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
>BN-1L 227550
 

________________________________________________________________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at cconnect.net

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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 18:04:57 -0500
Subject: great british link site

Allan Casavant
100M
Silverstone
www.britishcarlinks.com

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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 16:56:09 -0600
Subject: O/D drain plug wrench

http://www.britishtool.com/

Another possibility is a hooked adjustable spanner wrench, 2<>4-3/4",
several makers:

http://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/products.jsp?groupID=863

brgds, Jay

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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 18:07:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate

Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: May Steven Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>; Ed Adams
<JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate


>BJ8 batch numbers range from 3171 to 3240, with some numbers in
>between skipped.  As I stated a few days ago, out of 4,260 BJ8s
>now included in the registry (just 168 cars short of a full 25%
>of original production), only one of them has been identified
>with a batch number out of this range, being 4118 on the firewall
>tag (and confirmed by BMIHT).  This BJ8 is an early one, with VIN
>HBJ8L/26641.  Batch number 4118 looks like it could have also
>been used on earlier models, but I don't know.
>
>Happy Healey New Year to all!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
>Date:  Wed, 1 Jan 2003 12:52:06 -0500
>
>>To holders of the six cylinder Registries - where do your model
>batches
>>range from?  It kinda looks like each model starts from scratch
>for batch
>>#s?  Is it possible, by coincidence, to have two or three
>different model
>>cars with the same body/batch numbers?  If not, why not?  Am I
>asking dumb
>>questions here and there's something obvious that I've just not
>seen or been
>>exposed to?
>>
>>Ed Adams  ( je.adams@att.net )
>>A-H 100 Registry
>>Member:  AHCUSA, AHSTC, AHCA
>>BN-1L 227550
>
>
>________________________________________________________________
>Sent via the KillerWebMail system at cconnect.net

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 16:19:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate

Bill Lawrence

Alex Hope wrote:

> I have never heard of a batch number lower than 4200 before. Can anyone make
> comment on the batch number ?
>
> Body number 541 would be a pretty early car.  Built in October '53 ?
>
> Alex Hope
> Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, 30 December 2002 2:26 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Batch/Body # plate
>
> I have a batch/body plate that I believe would be proper for a 4-cylinder
> car
> or a BN4.  It has the batch number on the top line (w/no model designation )
>
> and the body number on the second, offset to the right.  The numbers are the
>
> large size, incised.
> The plate is identical to the one shown in the upper photograph on page 88
> of
> Clausinger's book.
>
> The numbers are 3194/541.  If someone owns the car to which this plate
> belongs (a BMIHT Certificate should show the body number) they can have the
> plate.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 16:47:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate

Bill Lawrence

SMickel950@aol.com wrote:

> I've determined that they did that every 3rd Monday and every second Thursday
> of odd numbered months and every other Friday on even numbered months, unless
> it was leap year, in which case they reversed the pattern and added 4 numbers
> to the third digit and left off or misprinted the second digit, if it was a
> month that ended with the letter "R".
>
> Steve Mickelson and "Brutus"
>
> In a message dated 12/30/02 5:29:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> byers@cconnect.net writes:
>
> <<  It would appear
>  that the factory liked to throw in an oddball occasionally just to mess up
> the
>  statistics for those of us who give a flip. >>

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from Moss--item number 101 on page 110.
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 18:15:29 -0600
Subject: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

I've looked inside the side plate where the shifter ball end installs into the
gear selector or "lever control" ( I think this is item number 94. in the Moss
catalog) , and it doesn't look like there is a provision for this bronze
bushing to go in there.  I have probed about with a pick and it appears that
the current ball cup  is not a separate piece like the item number 101 in the
moss catalog.

Item 101 is a small bronze bush that is split top to bottom in half and held
together with a spring circlip of sorts.

Anyone been into this that can tell me if I can use this bronze bush in my 61
and if so, what do I need to do to install/replace it.  ---

The car does shift OK, but there is a fair amount of free play of slop between
the shift lever and the internal gear selector shaft that it engages.

Brian

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 18:22:21 -0600
Subject: Seat back pivot point location

 I have probed around extensively with a small sharp pick by actually poking
through the upholstery and padding and then attempting to "feel" the hole in
the seat back under the upholstery.  NO luck.    Does anyone have a seat back
that is not currently upholstered that could tell me the distance of the hole
from all 3 sides of the seat back "ear"?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 17:46:20 -0700
Subject: Re: New Engine seeping coolant from Head Gasket

Bill Lawrence

"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:

> Help!
>
> I am about to start the engine after a rebuild, and after adding 1 gallon of
> coolant and 1 gallon of water, I have noticed a slow drip of water from the
> head gasket right above the #4 spark plug. I have not started the engine, so
> this is leaking cold from a freshly rebuilt engine and head.
>
> I did put the head on with copper head gasket sealant and followed a standard
> head torque pattern, so I'm a bit confused.
>
> Could this be something that is just leaking until the engine warms up and the
> head seats correctly? Or am I just fooling myself and need to pull the head
> and start over.
>
> Pretty disappointed here in frozen Connecticut. I suspect the answers will be
> the obvious... pull the engine and retorq the head with a new head gasket.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 20:22:19 EST
Subject: Re: Batch/Body # plate


> Yes, 554 was built in October  53.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> 
> Alex Hope wrote:
> 
> > I have never heard of a batch number lower than 4200 before. Can anyone 
> make
> > comment on the batch number ?
> >
> > Body number 541 would be a pretty early car.  Built in October '53 ?
> >
> 

It is apparently for a BN4.

Best--Michael

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From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 19:43:50 -0600
Subject: Re: O/D drain plug wrench

<<A nice custom made spanner wrench for the notched plug is available
from:>>

First, not "custom" made!!!

Second, thanks to Bill Bolten a picture has been on Ed Kaler's site
www.justbrits.com under "Various Articles" for a LONG time!!!

Happy New Year to all !!

        Rick

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 22:12:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

> FWIW, I have a BJ8 in pretty good shape and i love it----however, 
> there is something about a 100-4 with the windscreen folded back
> that I absolutely love. Anyone want to trade?

Sure.  My '56 100 BN-2 has no floors (rust), is missing the bottom 6" 
off both doors (rust), and hasn't been started in 20 years. You'll need 
a trailer to take it home when you drop of my BJ8.

:-)

Kent
'56 100 BN-2, a pile of rust

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 22:22:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?   

Are you sure about that?  My understanding was that it was
an anti-theft measure.  The early (side-screen) cars couldn't
be locked.  The ignition switch wires and hood release are
easily accessible.  The kill switch is in the trunk, which can
be locked.

Kent
'56 100 BN-2, until my BJ8 is delivered :-)

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:22:36 -0500
Subject: RE: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

At a guess I would say that in the hole in the "lever control" you are
seeing the bottom halves of the split bronze bushings. The bushings tend
to break at the centre line and the bottom halves stay in the hole. 

You have to get them out before you can install the new ones that you
have from MM. 

We have given up using the bronze bushings, because they break and now
use a nylon one similar to the later cars. 

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brian Collins
Sent: 1-Jan-03 7:15 PM
To: Austin Healey List
Subject: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

I am installing my newly replated shift lever into my side shift trans.
I
have new distance bushings courtesy of Bill Bolton and a new bronze
bushing
from Moss--item number 101 on page 110.

I've looked inside the side plate where the shifter ball end installs
into the
gear selector or "lever control" ( I think this is item number 94. in
the Moss
catalog) , and it doesn't look like there is a provision for this bronze
bushing to go in there.  I have probed about with a pick and it appears
that
the current ball cup  is not a separate piece like the item number 101
in the
moss catalog.

Item 101 is a small bronze bush that is split top to bottom in half and
held
together with a spring circlip of sorts.

Anyone been into this that can tell me if I can use this bronze bush in
my 61
and if so, what do I need to do to install/replace it.  ---

The car does shift OK, but there is a fair amount of free play of slop
between
the shift lever and the internal gear selector shaft that it engages.

Brian

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Wed,  1 Jan 2003 21:48:35 -0600
Subject: piston clearance to bore diameter

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:59:33 EST
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 21:48:59 -0700
Subject: Re: piston clearance to bore diameter

    4 cylinder - .0012"-.0018" Measured at the skirt 90 degrees to the gudgeon
pin. *
    2639cc - .002" (Same place) (no range of tolerance noted)**
    2912cc - .0032"-.0043" (Top of piston), .0010"-.0016" (Bottom of skirt)***

*100 service manual for the 4 cyl.
**Healeys and Austin Healeys for the 2639cc (Bentley had some really wild
numbers for the 2639cc.)
***Bentley manual "The Complete Official Austin-Healey 100-six and 3000."

Bill Lawrence


dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:

> I posted a question last week regarding my new .030 hepolite pistons and the
> cylinder wall clearance.  However, I did not get many responses. Does anyone
> happen to know what the clearances are between the piston and the cylinder
> walls??????  My engine rebuilder thinks that .001 may be enough but I want to
> find out from others who have done this.  My new pistons have 5 rings whereas
> the old ones had only 4.  I do not want these to seize within the bores, this
> engine rebuild is expensive enough. Thanks.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 22:52:08 -0600
Subject: "custom" O/D plug wrench

Have a look - maybe a "custom" wrench:
http://www.britishtool.com/images/filterplugsp.JPG

Quite right, the adjustable hook spanner is a standard tool.

Best wishes for the New Year.

brgds, Jay

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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 23:55:41 EST
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?


> If you want to  disable your Healey put a switch in the fuel
> pump circuit , if its driven away with the switch off it will go a few 100
> yds and stop , a thief would probably leave the car where it stopped , but
> still turn off your battery switch and lock your trunk .Norman Nock British
> Car Specialists  C.A .
>

Gee, Norman -- does that really work?   Come to think of it, I remember
someone testing it in their Healey on the second morning of our journey to
Breckinridge years ago. Can't think whose car it was.
Cheers
Gary

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 08:04:01 -0500
Subject: RE: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?   

I think you are correct there, sorry Norman. 
To quote from the BJ8 Driver's Handbook Pg 8.

"Battery master switch
        This switch, situated in the luggage compartment, is fitted as
an anti-theft device. The luggage compartment must of course be locked
after the switch has been turned to the "off" position."

There is a similar statement in the 100 Owner's Handbook.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kent McLean
Sent: 1-Jan-03 10:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do? 

Norman Nock wrote:
> The battery switch is to stop the engine in an emergency by  open
> circuiting the battery and grounding out Lt. side of the ignition ,
why it
> was put in the trunk I dont know . All race cars have it very
accessable 

Are you sure about that?  My understanding was that it was
an anti-theft measure.  The early (side-screen) cars couldn't
be locked.  The ignition switch wires and hood release are
easily accessible.  The kill switch is in the trunk, which can
be locked.

Kent
'56 100 BN-2, until my BJ8 is delivered :-)

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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 08:25:31 -0600
Subject: RE: New Engine seeping coolant from Head Gasket

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan@Ledwith [mailto:ryan@ledwith.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 11:44 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: New Engine seeping coolant from Head Gasket


Help!

I am about to start the engine after a rebuild, and after adding 1 gallon of
coolant and 1 gallon of water, I have noticed a slow drip of water from the
head gasket right above the #4 spark plug. I have not started the engine, so
this is leaking cold from a freshly rebuilt engine and head.

I did put the head on with copper head gasket sealant and followed a standard
head torque pattern, so I'm a bit confused.

Could this be something that is just leaking until the engine warms up and the
head seats correctly? Or am I just fooling myself and need to pull the head
and start over.

Pretty disappointed here in frozen Connecticut. I suspect the answers will be
the obvious... pull the engine and retorq the head with a new head gasket.

Ryan
BJ7

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From Andrew_Phillips at keane.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:27:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

( (Br OR Bl) AND (100 OR BJ8) )

Happy New Year everyone.
Andy
(Br and BJ8)

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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 07:53:42 -0700
Subject: Fw: New Engine seeping coolant from Head Gasket

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From "Christer Larsson" <christer.larsson at nethouse.se>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:26:02 +0100
Subject: New member in need of assistance

I'm in need of:

                      First motion shaft

                      Mainshaft

All for a BN7, with overdrive



New, or used in good condition it's all a matter of pricing

Regards

Christer Larsson

-59 BN7 in original pacific green!!!!!!!!!! Quite rare I guess

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:29:42 -0500
Subject: Re: piston clearance to bore diameter

Jim


----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <ynotink@qwest.net>; <AHope@jaques.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 10:48 PM
Subject: piston clearance to bore diameter


> I posted a question last week regarding my new .030 hepolite pistons and
the
> cylinder wall clearance.  However, I did not get many responses. Does
anyone
> happen to know what the clearances are between the piston and the cylinder
> walls??????  My engine rebuilder thinks that .001 may be enough but I want
to
> find out from others who have done this.  My new pistons have 5 rings
whereas
> the old ones had only 4.  I do not want these to seize within the bores,
this
> engine rebuild is expensive enough. Thanks.

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:11:55 EST
Subject: Re: New member in need of assistance

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 11:45:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

>Kent . A locked trunk keeps honest people honest .  

I never said the battery switch was an effective
anti-theft device, but that's what it is supposed
to do.

I believe my 100 has a more effective anti-theft
device -- no floors, no fenders, no battery, and a 
disconnected drive shaft.  :-)

Kent
'56 100 BN-2, "Rusty"

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:55:33 EST
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7

<< Dear Club-
I am putting the finishing touches on my interior and one of the items needed
for completion are seatbelts.  I am wanting 2-point belts and intend to mount
them with the correct eye-bolts.  I am looking at the ones offered by MOSS but
thought I would send a note to the club.  Does anyone have a preference?  Is
there another vendor out there that makes a better period 2-point belt?  Maybe
with BMC logos? I am wanting period style if possible.
Thanks,
Matt-
P.S.  If anyone is looking for a good interior installation place I can
recommend OB Auto Upholstery.  The owner's name is Chuck and I am very pleased
with the services rendered. >>



We DO NOT RECOMEND lap belts to be installed. They will not hold you in the 
car in case of an accident. If you are in an accident you will slip under the 
belt until your feet reach the foot well then you will bend at the waist and 
hit the dash or steering wheel with your face or chest. I have seen this 
personally on seceral ocasions. The Healey that flew off the cliffs last May, 
the owner had just installed a set of retractable shoulder belts. He is now 
restoring another Healey. The car was destoyed and he survived thanks to the 
belts. 


                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 09:16:29 -0800 
Subject: RE: New member in need of assistance

Good luck with the transmission.

Frank 1960 BN7.

-----Original Message-----
From: Christer Larsson [mailto:christer.larsson@nethouse.se]
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 7:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: New member in need of assistance


A friend of mine ruined my gearbox last summer.

I'm in need of:

                      First motion shaft

                      Mainshaft

All for a BN7, with overdrive



New, or used in good condition it's all a matter of pricing

Regards

Christer Larsson

-59 BN7 in original pacific green!!!!!!!!!! Quite rare I guess

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 13:01:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

                                                                        CB

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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:05:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7

I asked similar questions a year or so ago, for my BJ8 that came with 
lap-only belts. One story that was recounted to me was the Healey that 
rolled (without a roll-cage), and the driver believed he'd have been 
decapitated had he been unable to duck his head below the door-line at 
the vital moment. The suggestion was that I should stick with lap-only, 
as they are arguably safer.

However, I took stock of the way I drive, and decided that a head-on was 
much more likely (other bugger's fault of course!), and fitted 
three-point belts.

Recoil belts were my preference, but they don't fit naturally in a late 
Healey. If you put the recoil at the upper belt fixing, you have to 
forgo one of the two locking mechanisms, and you can't fold down the 
parcel shelf over the rear squab seats. If you put the recoil on the 
floor I seem to recall problems in routing the belt up to (and through) 
the top anchorage.

Also remember that you will want unclippable belts at one or two of the 
anchor points, to allow you to pass the belts through t tonneau flaps 
when the tonneau is partially deployed over the back seat.

My belts were made to my specification (grey webbing, classic heavy 
chrome buckles, clip-on ends) by a firm in London. They look good!
-- 
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:18:46 -0800
Subject: BT7 Hardtop Wanted

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:32:31 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 Hardtop Wanted

ANSWER:  San Diego CA... Sorry for this omission.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "justbrits" <justbrits@attbi.com>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: BT7 Hardtop Wanted

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From "ed orr" <eorr at cogeco.ca>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:43:23 -0500
Subject: Chasis dimentions

Ed Orr -'67 BJ8  #2 (#1 has a Jensen frame , all this was done by
Martin )

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from received them from someone in Australia, but I can't remember any
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 14:03:30 -0600
Subject: HD8 K&N air filters and housing question

Unfortunately, now that I am installing them, I realize that the two that I
got are identical...the front one does not sit lower and I don't think it
will clear the shroud.  Can someone that knows about these housings tell me
if I got 1 wrong one, or is that the way they are supposed to be?  Anyone
know the manufacturer so that I can try to get the correct one for the front
carb?
Thanks.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8

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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:35:37 -0500
Subject: non healey content...New Zealanders

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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:49:36 -0500
Subject: body & batch numbers

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:04:21 EST
Subject: Re: New member in need of assistance


> A friend of mine ruined my gearbox last summer. I'm in need of:
>                       First motion shaft
>                       Mainshaft
> 

Chris:

And I would think a new friend as well!

Best--Michael

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:08:20 EST
Subject: Re: w58 transmission


> How much is the Smitty conversion kit?
> 
> 

Smitty's number is 805/495-1488.  Call him for details.

Best--Michael Oritt

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu,  2 Jan 2003 16:26:47 -0600
Subject: Re: HD8 K&N air filters and housing question

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 14:50:06 -0800
Subject: Re: piston clearance to bore diameter

Love the 'Healey Archaeologist' tag!  Sometimes I think 'masochist' is more
accurate.

I did a complete re-build of my BJ8 engine in 1984-85.  It has now run
approximately 100,000 trouble free miles on that rebuild, all on unleaded
fuel, and is still going strong, although beginning to sound a bit 'looser'
now.

At the time, 30 thou over 5-ring Hepolite pistons were installed - mainly
because the bores needed that much of a cut to clean up, and also, it was
all that was available at the time.

Everyone I talked to about the extra ring thought it was a good thing - the
piston was much better supported in the bore with the extra ring below the
pin.  The only point made at the time was that the extra ring would not be
desireable in racing applications - there might be a slight increase in drag
causing a slight decrease in power.  In fact, most builders seemed to feel
that, at least theoretically, the engine would last a bit longer with the
piston skirt not 'slapping around in there', so to speak.

My machinist used whatever clearance spec. was in the book for that model
car for the original pistons.  I believe it's important to stay with that
spec - seemingly a bit loose - when running aluminum pistons in a steel
sleeved iron block, unless the piston manufacturer specifies something else.
If you don't have the clearance spec in one of your manuals, I can fax you a
copy of the appropriate page.   I'll have to be reminded which model Healey
it is.  Let me know.

Based on my experience, I wouldn't worry about the 5 ring pistons - they'll
work well if your machine shop knows what they're doing.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <ynotink@qwest.net>; <ahope@jaques.com.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 7:48 PM
Subject: piston clearance to bore diameter


I posted a question last week regarding my new .030 hepolite pistons and the
cylinder wall clearance.  However, I did not get many responses. Does anyone
happen to know what the clearances are between the piston and the cylinder
walls??????  My engine rebuilder thinks that .001 may be enough but I want
to
find out from others who have done this.  My new pistons have 5 rings
whereas
the old ones had only 4.  I do not want these to seize within the bores,
this
engine rebuild is expensive enough. Thanks.

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 18:40:34 -0500
Subject: "Q" cc`s

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:35:55 -0600
Subject: Re: HD8 K&N air filters and housing question

----- Original Message -----
From: "Len and Dorothy Kirby" <l-dkirby@shaw.ca>
To: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: HD8 K&N air filters and housing question


> Chris, I also bought a pair and I thought they were wrong. Not so, what I
> finally figured out was that to install the front one I turned it upside
> down so that the main body was on the down side. I then marked out were
the
> holes were suppose to be and took it to a machine shop and had them drill
> two new holes. I made sure that I sealed the old holes. I have had them on
> for about 3 months and really like them.  Len 35624
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 12:03 PM
> Subject: HD8 K&N air filters and housing question
>
>
> > Hi Guys,
> > A few years ago at Carlisle I was hanging out with the guys from the
> > Northeast Region Healey Club.  It was a miserable weekend...rained like
> > crazy, hopefully there are some of them listening.  While I was there I
> > bought some cast aluminum K&N air filter housings with the filters.
> Really
> > beautiful pieces, with a cast in air horn.  The fellow that I bought
them
> > from received them from someone in Australia, but I can't remember any
> > names.
> >
> > Unfortunately, now that I am installing them, I realize that the two
that
> I
> > got are identical...the front one does not sit lower and I don't think
it
> > will clear the shroud.  Can someone that knows about these housings tell
> me
> > if I got 1 wrong one, or is that the way they are supposed to be?
Anyone
> > know the manufacturer so that I can try to get the correct one for the
> front
> > carb?
> > Thanks.
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8

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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 17:02:55 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Misc Questions.....

  A few misc. questions...

1.  Wiring - The wiring harness enters the trunk through a larger hole on
the left side of the car in the trunk bulkhead.  Next to it is a smaller
hole.  I have seen photos of the wire going to the fuel tank sender unit
going throught this smaller hole.  Is that correct or does the harness go
through the trunk bulkhead before the wire goes off to the sender unit?

2.  Wiring - The harness travels forward from the trunk bulkhead to a
fastener on the bumpstop (left side) then to the rear bulkhead below the
rear seats.  From there does it angle down to attach left of the driveshaft
tunnel or does it go over further and then go straight down to the left side
of the driveshaft tunnel... (I know... nits ... but...)

3. Horn button - Does anyone know of a way to refurbish a crazed horn button
or is this a lost cause?

4. Transmission - I am looking for the 7/16 bolts used to center the
shifter.  That is, the ones that have the machined sleeve.  Anyone have a
line on them?

5.  I am going to have the antenna hole in my shroud eliminated.  Is there a
specific type of aluminum that I should tell my body guy to get/ use/ etc.

Thanks .

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8  (In not so many pieces)

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 19:36:06 -0500
Subject: 'Q'cc`s

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From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:19:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Negative Ground



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 20:22:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Negative Ground

I drove my BJ8 for 18 years with positive ground, then changed to negative
last Spring for the trip to Tahoe.

My opinion:

If you want a driver, then I think changing to negative ground is
advantageous.   It will allow you to install an alternator, which not only
provides more electrical capacity if you need it, but is a lot easier to deal
with than a generator is if it quits in the middle of nowhere.   You can find
a new alternator at any NAPA store, and they are cheap.  If you ever need to
have a jump start, it also simplifies things if you have negative ground.  If
you want a modern radio, negative ground makes installation straightforward
without dealing with polarity converters or chassis isolation.

The only components that need to be "rebuilt" for negative ground are the
tachometer and the fuel pump.  It's not that difficult to change the
tachometer, and I did mine myself.    I needed a new fuel pump anyway, so I
bought a  negative ground SU pump from Moss and added a "pump in a can" from
the local Autozone as a backup.  With a switch, I can select either one.

Switching to negative ground involves:
1.  Disconnecting the battery terminals, turning the battery around, and
reconnecting the terminals.
2.  Reversing the connections at the ignition coil of the black/white wire and
the white wire.
2.  Polarizing the generator, if you're going to be using one, or buying an
alternator and a mounting kit (Don Lenschow
      of North Texas AHC makes a kit that I believe is also sold by Hendrix
Wire Wheel).
3.  Reversing the white wire loop on the back of the tachometer.
4.  Rewiring the tachometer internally (reversing two solder connections).
5.  Some fuel pumps are polarity-sensitive and some are not.   Some of them
have diodes that can be reversed to change
       the   polarity.    I haven't done this myself so I can't give you the
details.

To polarize the generator, remove the smaller of the two wires from its
terminal on the back of the generator (terminal F).   With the battery turned
around and connected for negative ground,  connect a lead to a hot source (I
used the terminal on the battery side of the starter relay) and touch the
other end a few times to terminal F of the generator.  Reattach the wire to
the back of the generator.

If you go with an alternator, you most likely will have to modify the
firewall-mounted regulator box.   This is simple, and I can provide some
details on how to do it if you want.

I have a diagram showing how to reverse the white wire loop on the tachometer,
and some written instructions on how to reverse the internals of the
tachometer for negative ground if you need them.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: john sawyer
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 7:19 PM
  Subject: Re: Negative Ground


  Hello listers:  I have the BJ8 in month 13 of a total frame-up re
construction.  I plan to drive the car.  My question,  is changing the
electrical system to negative ground advantagious. A new wiring harness is
going in soon. It seems that a lot of the existing components being rebuilt
would need to reverse polarity.  I don't find much in the archives on the
subject.  Any good references out there?
  Thanks
  John Sawyer  66 / 69

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From RAHosmer at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 21:15:42 EST
Subject: Re: 'Q'cc`s

You also have a replacement engine - all 29xxxxxxx marked ones are 2912cc, 
which started in '59 with the BN/BT7s. Yours would originally have been a 
2639cc unit, and been marked 26xxxxxxx on the engine ID plate. For the 
nitpickers, yes, I know xxxxxxx are not the "right" characters; but, 29 vs. 
26 answers his question.

Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556 (on the road in '03!!)

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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 21:11:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Negative Ground

I will add my two cents about why to switch, certainly if you want to go to
an alternator, the other reason is if you want to run a modern stereo unit
in your car (that is the reason I have changed my cars), your other option
on the stereo is to try to isolate it so it doesn't ground against the body
of the car or use a voltage inverter, I have tried both and in my opinion
the switch to negative ground is the cleanest and safest solution.

If you don't have any electrical gadgetery you want to add that runs on
negative ground only I don't really see a reason to change.

I do remember jump starting my older positive ground Sprite with my borthers
newer negative ground Sprite one winter long ago and the bumpers touching
with the jumper cables attached!  That was kind of fun.

There is also a theory that i have heard that positive ground cars may rust
or corrode slightly faster, I don't know that there has ever been any proof
of this.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

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From RThrift <rthrift at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 19:28:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7

A couple years ago I had just rolled my 4Runner (luckily came out requiring 
only a
couple of stitches in an earlobe).  I am lucky to be alive.  So I REALLY wanted
seatbelts in my dad's '60 BT-7 I had just inherited.  (In fact I asked the shop
about a rollbar but they said it was a waste since the Healey, unlike the 
4Runner,
wasn't likely to roll.)  He put in 2-point belts made by Beam's Industries of 
OKC
(maybe they were via Moss, I dunno).  Because they were attached so far back, 
just
in front of the rear seats, they actually ride up to just below my belly button
which I doubt is a good place to be restrained by belts if an unplanned 
emergency
stop is forced on me.

Guess it depends a lot on where the 2-point belts are attached; I'm not sure 
they
HAD to be attached so far back.  If they are attached JUST behind the front 
seats
they might be OK.  I can't imagine "sliding under the belt" or otherwise hitting
one's beer gut if the belts are on the hips where they're designed to be.  Of
course lap belts won't stop you from hitting the steering wheel.

I also had a clearance problem, the eye bolts on the drive shaft tunnel were
hitting part of the shaft (U-joint?) when I cornered hard, and had to be ground
down.

So I have been thinking I should look into alternatives.  I'm interested in what
you find

Richard

HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:

> We DO NOT RECOMEND lap belts to be installed. They will not hold you in the
> car in case of an accident. If you are in an accident you will slip under the
> belt until your feet reach the foot well then you will bend at the waist and
> hit the dash or steering wheel with your face or chest. I have seen this
> personally on seceral ocasions. The Healey that flew off the cliffs last May,
> the owner had just installed a set of retractable shoulder belts. He is now
> restoring another Healey. The car was destoyed and he survived thanks to the
> belts.

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 19:51:25 -0800
Subject: TR4 Rally Car Roll Over - Obviously Not Healey Related

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from my recently assembled engine at the head gasket. After a few hours I
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 00:35:18 -0500
Subject: Leaking Head Gasket - update

I pulled the head and checked the head gasket and found that it was sealed
pretty well to the head and the block.
For those interested, I took pictures:
www.ledwith.com/healey

I checked the flatness of the head using a piece of glass and found it to be
flat.  The block and the head had been surfaced during the rebuild. The only
thing to check next is the block. I'll use a flat edge on that and see what it
looks like.

No conclusions yet. The amount of leakage was too great to be from simply a
poorly fitted gasket or an improperly torqued head, yet I didn't find any
thing that would have caused the head not to seat properly. The head bolts
were sealed into the block before assembly, and the bolts didn't seem to pull
up on the block, causing a lip around the bolts.

I reused the original head bolts and nuts and washers. Some people suggested
this could cause problems, others said they've used old bolts without
problems. I can't see how old bolts would have contributed to the leakage.

I'm waiting for some feedback from my shop.

At this point, all I can figure is that the gasket must have not seated
properly and jammed up. The only course of action I am thinking of is to use
another head gasket and try again.

After taking off the head I noticed some cracks on the chassis frame under the
engine mount tower, which I didn't see before, so I have some welding to do.

So close, and yet so far from running.

Ryan
BJ7/8

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 23:35:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaking Head Gasket - update

Bill Lawrence

"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:

> Thanks for all the suggestions. As I said before, I found some coolant leaking
> from my recently assembled engine at the head gasket. After a few hours I
> checked it again and found coolant leaking out of the spark plug holes for the
> #2,3,and 4 cylinders.  Not #1. I never attempted to start the engine. (good
> idea).
>
> I pulled the head and checked the head gasket and found that it was sealed
> pretty well to the head and the block.
> For those interested, I took pictures:
> www.ledwith.com/healey
>
> I checked the flatness of the head using a piece of glass and found it to be
> flat.  The block and the head had been surfaced during the rebuild. The only
> thing to check next is the block. I'll use a flat edge on that and see what it
> looks like.
>
> No conclusions yet. The amount of leakage was too great to be from simply a
> poorly fitted gasket or an improperly torqued head, yet I didn't find any
> thing that would have caused the head not to seat properly. The head bolts
> were sealed into the block before assembly, and the bolts didn't seem to pull
> up on the block, causing a lip around the bolts.
>
> I reused the original head bolts and nuts and washers. Some people suggested
> this could cause problems, others said they've used old bolts without
> problems. I can't see how old bolts would have contributed to the leakage.
>
> I'm waiting for some feedback from my shop.
>
> At this point, all I can figure is that the gasket must have not seated
> properly and jammed up. The only course of action I am thinking of is to use
> another head gasket and try again.
>
> After taking off the head I noticed some cracks on the chassis frame under the
> engine mount tower, which I didn't see before, so I have some welding to do.
>
> So close, and yet so far from running.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7/8

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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 10:25:14 -0000
Subject: RE: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

I can second Michael's advice from bitter experience. Having tried in vain to 
install an original new BMC bushing, I resorted to using a nylon bush from a 
Mini, cut to fit. This has worked a treat ever since!

By the way, the original bush had worn down to two tiny crescents, so I didn't 
have much trouble removing it. The difference was amazing - no slop any more. 
(Took some getting used to!)

Regards

Paul

Longbridge BN4

- -----Original Message-----

Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:22:36 -0500
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Subject: RE: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

Hi Brian,

At a guess I would say that in the hole in the "lever control" you are
seeing the bottom halves of the split bronze bushings. The bushings tend
to break at the centre line and the bottom halves stay in the hole. 

You have to get them out before you can install the new ones that you
have from MM. 

We have given up using the bronze bushings, because they break and now
use a nylon one similar to the later cars. 

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brian Collins
Sent: 1-Jan-03 7:15 PM
To: Austin Healey List
Subject: split bronze bushing at ball end of shift lever on 61 MK1

I am installing my newly replated shift lever into my side shift trans.
I have new distance bushings courtesy of Bill Bolton and a new bronze bushing
from Moss--item number 101 on page 110.

<snipped>

Item 101 is a small bronze bush that is split top to bottom in half and held
together with a spring circlip of sorts.

Anyone been into this that can tell me if I can use this bronze bush in my 61
and if so, what do I need to do to install/replace it.  ---

The car does shift OK, but there is a fair amount of free play of slop between
the shift lever and the internal gear selector shaft that it engages.

Brian
---------------------------------------------------------------------

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From "john metcalfe" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:56:47 +0000 (GMT Standard Time)
Subject: Number of Healey's 

John
BN4 BT7

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
IMSTP.gif]

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 07:59:43 -0500
Subject: BN6, BN7 body plugs

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/BN6plugs.jpg

I couldn't find them because, as far as we can figure, they do not have
a part number in the original parts book.

Can anyone find an original part number to save my parts man from going
insane ....please?


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 06:24:55 -0700
Subject: Thanks and another BJ8 question

Thanks first for the great replies and assistance on my last query..

Another simple question though ...  for a phase II BJ8 (left hand drive),
which hole in the firewall is the correct hole to put the windscreen washer
tube through?  I could not tell from any pictures I have.

Thanks.

jim Sailer
66 BJ8

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:05:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Leaking Head Gasket - update

It seems to me that there was an awful lot of seepage for it to be any other
problem.  The original head studs are 40 years+ old, number one, and they
have gone through many, many heat cycles.  Also, I looked at your pictures
and it looks like there is some pitting on the studs.  That pitting is a
MAJOR stress riser, which means if they snap that is where it will happen.
Many head studs are torque to yield.  That means that when you tighten them
down, they are stretched to their maximum elastic limits...any farther and
they would not spring back.  Once they have stretched and don't return to
their original length(plastic deformation), they will torque down just fine
but the force that they are pulling back with will be much less.  In other
words, they have lost their strength.  I suspect that this is what you have
experienced.  Did you mic the length of the studs?  Try it and I bet you
will find some that are several thousandths longer than the others.  As long
as you use hardened washers, original or new, that will be fine.  Just do a
quick check on the washers to make sure they are still flat, and not cupped.

Please get some new head studs.

Cheers,
Chris
BJ8 - w/ARP studs

>>
I reused the original head bolts and nuts and washers. Some people suggested
this could cause problems, others said they've used old bolts without
problems. I can't see how old bolts would have contributed to the leakage.
<<

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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 09:26:48 EST
Subject: Number of Healeys

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:35:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Leaking Head Gasket - update

Also, another factor, is the lubricant used as you torque the head. I had
repeated problems with one of my race motors (using ARP studs). There were
two different torque specs, depending whether you used oil, or a moly based
lubricant.

You might try a different, recently calibrated wrench,. and a moly based
lube, and that might solve your issues.

WST


----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Masucci" <sooch@houston.rr.com>
To: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking Head Gasket - update


> H Ryan,
>
> It seems to me that there was an awful lot of seepage for it to be any
other
> problem.  The original head studs are 40 years+ old, number one, and they
> have gone through many, many heat cycles.  Also, I looked at your pictures
> and it looks like there is some pitting on the studs.  That pitting is a
> MAJOR stress riser, which means if they snap that is where it will happen.
> Many head studs are torque to yield.  That means that when you tighten
them
> down, they are stretched to their maximum elastic limits...any farther and
> they would not spring back.  Once they have stretched and don't return to
> their original length(plastic deformation), they will torque down just
fine
> but the force that they are pulling back with will be much less.  In other
> words, they have lost their strength.  I suspect that this is what you
have
> experienced.  Did you mic the length of the studs?  Try it and I bet you
> will find some that are several thousandths longer than the others.  As
long
> as you use hardened washers, original or new, that will be fine.  Just do
a
> quick check on the washers to make sure they are still flat, and not
cupped.
>
> Please get some new head studs.
>
> Cheers,
> Chris
> BJ8 - w/ARP studs

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 10:41:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

That's the beauty of my system.  It's a permanent condition, 
so I don't have to tempt anyone by driving it to the mall.

Kent
'56 100 BN-2

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:14:15 EST
Subject: Re: Negative Ground

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
Date: Fri,  3 Jan 2003 10:25:43 -0600
Subject: door gap question????

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:20:02 EST
Subject: Re: Thanks and another BJ8 question

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 08:46:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: head leak

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 11:59:08 -0500
Subject: interesting site for equipment, paint

 ==  Alex in Maine
     1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
     Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
     AI2Q  .-.-.

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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 12:10:25 -0600
Subject: O/D "big brass plug" wrench

http://www.britishtool.com/servtool.htm

It's part no. BT8, $ 45.50 ea. I have one of these and in my opinion it
does the best job turning the notched drain plug found on the A type
Overdrive.

To buy a 2" > 4-3/4" adjustable hook spanner, which is made by several
tool manufacturers, Reed Tool Supply Co. is a possibility, (Williams
brand - $ 30.98) go to:
http://www.reidtool.com/products/Store/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=15400

or, at Grainger (Proto brand - $ 40.95) go to:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611733997

I have a Blue Point #AHS304B, 2" > 4-3/4" adj. hook spanner, which I
think is a Snap-On brand.  It's a nice tool but I think the Williams or
Proto brands would be equally suitable. Having both an adjustable hook
spanner and Rob Nortier's tool is the 1000% solution.

While on the subject of Overdrive tools, you might be interested in the
Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges I offer as an offshoot of first making the
gauge sets for myself. Details can be seen at:
http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html

brgds, Jay

'64 TR 4 CT38895-LO

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:47:38 -0600
Subject: Thanks to all who helped answer my various questions.

As a result of your help, (NOT including hecklers) the seat backs are now on
the car (found the hidden holes under the upholstery) and have the exhaust
hung (with a few mods) and will be addressing throttle linkage assembly this
weekend  using pictures that a few of you emailed me.  Many other issues have
been addressed as well

Once I get the throttle linkage plumbed and the hydraulics bled, this car will
be a functioning and driving car for the first time in 15 years the last 8 of
which I have been restoring it (and it has been making me a  crazy man).

Thanks much.
Brian Collins

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From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 14:04:28 EST
Subject: Re: door gap question????

There was considerable discussion of this subject that you might be able to 
find in the archives.

In any event, I would strongly recommend that you do not do any of  the final 
fitting of doors and panels unless the car is  on the wheels and the engine  
and transmission are in the car!

Been there - done it wrong-!!

Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7

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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:03:13 -0800
Subject: Fuel Pump

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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 14:24:22 -0600
Subject: Re: O/D "big brass plug" wrench

For all the places you can find a spanner wrench for around $40.00, I found
a set of four sizes for $15.00 from Harbor Freight.  I'll admit the quality
is not Armstrong but then I am not a professional and only use it every so
often,it is however a fairly solid set.

Hope this helps.
Jon

Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx,  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com

At 12:10 PM 1/3/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Greetings Jim,
>To acquire the purpose made "Overdrive Filter Plug Spanner" supplied by
>Rob Nortier at British Tool, go to:
>
>http://www.britishtool.com/servtool.htm
>
>It's part no. BT8, $ 45.50 ea. I have one of these and in my opinion it
>does the best job turning the notched drain plug found on the A type
>Overdrive.
>
>To buy a 2" > 4-3/4" adjustable hook spanner, which is made by several
>tool manufacturers, Reed Tool Supply Co. is a possibility, (Williams
>brand - $ 30.98) go to:
>http://www.reidtool.com/products/Store/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=15400
>
>or, at Grainger (Proto brand - $ 40.95) go to:
>http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611733997
>
>I have a Blue Point #AHS304B, 2" > 4-3/4" adj. hook spanner, which I
>think is a Snap-On brand.  It's a nice tool but I think the Williams or
>Proto brands would be equally suitable. Having both an adjustable hook
>spanner and Rob Nortier's tool is the 1000% solution.
>
>While on the subject of Overdrive tools, you might be interested in the
>Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges I offer as an offshoot of first making the
>gauge sets for myself. Details can be seen at:
>http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html
>
>brgds, Jay
>
>'64 TR 4 CT38895-LO

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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 14:48:24 -0600
Subject: Re: O/D "big brass plug" wrench

I forgot about the set of spanner wrenches from Harbor Freight - I happened to
see a set of these the other day in the local Harbor Freight Retail Store (a
good way to while away a hour or two) and I agree - they're not bad - I'd buy
them if I didn't already have what's needed. Here's the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41243

brgds, Jay

Jon McLeroy wrote:

> List, Jay and Jim
>
> For all the places you can find a spanner wrench for around $40.00, I found
> a set of four sizes for $15.00 from Harbor Freight.  I'll admit the quality
> is not Armstrong but then I am not a professional and only use it every so
> often,it is however a fairly solid set.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Jon
>
> Classic Auto Lubes
> 12803 CR 1222
> Tyler, Tx,  75709
> Ph: 903-561-4858
> Fax: 903-561-7177
> Email: jfm@ballistic.com
> www.classicautolubes.com
>
> At 12:10 PM 1/3/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >Greetings Jim,
> >To acquire the purpose made "Overdrive Filter Plug Spanner" supplied by
> >Rob Nortier at British Tool, go to:
> >
> >http://www.britishtool.com/servtool.htm
> >
> >It's part no. BT8, $ 45.50 ea. I have one of these and in my opinion it
> >does the best job turning the notched drain plug found on the A type
> >Overdrive.
> >
> >To buy a 2" > 4-3/4" adjustable hook spanner, which is made by several
> >tool manufacturers, Reed Tool Supply Co. is a possibility, (Williams
> >brand - $ 30.98) go to:
> >http://www.reidtool.com/products/Store/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=15400
> >
> >or, at Grainger (Proto brand - $ 40.95) go to:
> >http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611733997
> >
> >I have a Blue Point #AHS304B, 2" > 4-3/4" adj. hook spanner, which I
> >think is a Snap-On brand.  It's a nice tool but I think the Williams or
> >Proto brands would be equally suitable. Having both an adjustable hook
> >spanner and Rob Nortier's tool is the 1000% solution.
> >
> >While on the subject of Overdrive tools, you might be interested in the
> >Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges I offer as an offshoot of first making the
> >gauge sets for myself. Details can be seen at:
> >http://www.geocities.com/jholekamp/index.html
> >
> >brgds, Jay
> >
> >'64 TR 4 CT38895-LO

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 14:06:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

D

Barry Fahlstedt wrote:
> Now, with my BJ7 I bought recently,
> the ticking just goes on and on after I turn on the ignition. Is this the way
> its meant to happen?
> Barry Fahlstedt
> BJ7 Sequim, WA

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 16:34:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

    I can see why you stay away from the mall, unless it's downhill from
your house.

                                                                CB

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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 15:49:36 -0500
Subject: od drain wrench

Bill Pollock

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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 17:11:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

Barry,

If you have an original SU pump, it ought to stop after a bit - once the carb 
float bowls fill up.  Be sure that the needle valves aren't stuck which would 
cause fuel to run out the overflow tubes.  If you have an aftermarket pump, it 
may keep ticking.  


Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net

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from the description like the head is not sealing well at all, even with
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 19:39:29 -0600
Subject: Head Leak

This would lead me to think it wasn't cinched down properly either because
of some foreign matter blocking things somewhere, something out of
alignment, a bad gasket or bad surface.

As far as replacing the studs, I have had the heads of of many cars and not
replaced the studs on any of them, including my current 100, which are
somewhat notorious for "weeping" and never had a head gasket problem.

Is replacing the studs good insurance policy and good "do it once, do it
right practice"? sure, is it absolutely necessary in all cases?, no, is it
causing your problem?, I would bet not.

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 19:50:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?


>     Further to your last, I would imagine that the floor situation might
> keep the cockpit heat down, however, the drive shaft issue cuts down on
> available free air flow.
> 
>     I can see why you stay away from the mall, unless it's downhill from
> your house.
> 
>                                                                 CB

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 20:00:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Head Leak

Cheers,
Chris

>>
Is replacing the studs good insurance policy and good "do it once, do it
right practice"? sure, is it absolutely necessary in all cases?, no, is it
causing your problem?, I would bet not.
<<

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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 21:27:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Seatbelts - AH 3000 BT7

If I wanted to install seat beats on a 3000 Mk. I or earlier I would certainly 
look
into using the seat belt attachment points that the later cars had.  I have a 
Mk II
BT7 which had all of the attachment points but no belts.  British Car 
Specialists and
perhaps others can supply the attachments that can be welded in at the proper 
points
so that you can have three point belts.  The factory workshop manual shows 
exactly
where these should be welded to the body.
The problem I see is that no one seems to provide a seat belt that has the 
proper end
on it to attach in the rear for the shoulder belt.  Most people in the USA are
hesitant to resew anything on a seat belt unless you can find a US DOT 
certified place
which don't exist in mosst areas.

Norman or David Nock:  Can you provide the belts with this piece already 
attached?
When I bought my belts they could not.

Good luck,
Charlie
'62 BT7 trricarb

RThrift wrote:

> Hey Matt
> As unlikely as it may seem at first glance, given how low the seat is, HLYDOC 
>may
> have a point!
>
> A couple years ago I had just rolled my 4Runner (luckily came out requiring 
>only a
> couple of stitches in an earlobe).  I am lucky to be alive.  So I REALLY 
>wanted
> seatbelts in my dad's '60 BT-7 I had just inherited.  (In fact I asked the 
>shop
> about a rollbar but they said it was a waste since the Healey, unlike the 
>4Runner,
> wasn't likely to roll.)  He put in 2-point belts made by Beam's Industries of 
>OKC
> (maybe they were via Moss, I dunno).  Because they were attached so far back, 
>just
> in front of the rear seats, they actually ride up to just below my belly 
>button
> which I doubt is a good place to be restrained by belts if an unplanned 
>emergency
> stop is forced on me.
>
> Guess it depends a lot on where the 2-point belts are attached; I'm not sure 
>they
> HAD to be attached so far back.  If they are attached JUST behind the front 
>seats
> they might be OK.  I can't imagine "sliding under the belt" or otherwise 
>hitting
> one's beer gut if the belts are on the hips where they're designed to be.  Of
> course lap belts won't stop you from hitting the steering wheel.
>
> I also had a clearance problem, the eye bolts on the drive shaft tunnel were
> hitting part of the shaft (U-joint?) when I cornered hard, and had to be 
>ground
> down.
>
> So I have been thinking I should look into alternatives.  I'm interested in 
>what
> you find
>
> Richard
>
> HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > We DO NOT RECOMEND lap belts to be installed. They will not hold you in the
> > car in case of an accident. If you are in an accident you will slip under 
>the
> > belt until your feet reach the foot well then you will bend at the waist and
> > hit the dash or steering wheel with your face or chest. I have seen this
> > personally on seceral ocasions. The Healey that flew off the cliffs last 
>May,
> > the owner had just installed a set of retractable shoulder belts. He is now
> > restoring another Healey. The car was destoyed and he survived thanks to the
> > belts.

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 21:10:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump

Bill Lawrence

Barry Fahlstedt wrote:

> When I bought my BN4 new many years ago the fuel pump would stop ticking
> shortly after I turned on the ignition.  Now, with my BJ7 I bought recently,
> the ticking just goes on and on after I turn on the ignition. Is this the way
> its meant to happen?
> Barry Fahlstedt
> BJ7 Sequim, WA

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 21:22:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Head Leak

Bill Lawrence

Greg Lemon wrote:

> I am going to disagree somewhat about replacing the head studs.  It sounds
> from the description like the head is not sealing well at all, even with
> stretched studs you should be able to cinch a straight head, block surface,
> and gasket down to the point where leaks would be eliminated from a car just
> sitting (i.e. no variables like heat, water pressure that you get with a
> running motor).
>
> This would lead me to think it wasn't cinched down properly either because
> of some foreign matter blocking things somewhere, something out of
> alignment, a bad gasket or bad surface.
>
> As far as replacing the studs, I have had the heads of of many cars and not
> replaced the studs on any of them, including my current 100, which are
> somewhat notorious for "weeping" and never had a head gasket problem.
>
> Is replacing the studs good insurance policy and good "do it once, do it
> right practice"? sure, is it absolutely necessary in all cases?, no, is it
> causing your problem?, I would bet not.

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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 03:16:59 EST
Subject: Re: Leaking Head Gasket - update

I'm jumping in a little late, here, but would like to join the party.

I haven't actually torqued a head for 40 years, but did a lot up to then.  
I'm a Mechanical Engineer and have done a fair amount of study on torque.  
There are a lot of variables.  So many that it's hard to come up with a 
published torque value for a certain size and grade of bolt.  I have acquired 
a few charts, but they're full of disclaimers.

Essentially, the applied torque is used up by two factors.  Part of the 
torque goes into overcoming the "friction" in the threads and the rest goes 
into "tightening" the bolt (using the wedge principle on the circumferential 
threads).

Both factors are related to the shape, size, angle, smoothness and 
clearance/interference of the male/female threads.

Most torque values are published for unused (new) clean dry threads.  For 
non-clean threads it takes more torque to get the same clamping force.  For 
clean lubricated threads, it takes less torque to get the same clamping 
force.  For reused threads, it may take more or less torque to attain the 
same clamping force (first use may smooth the threads or bugger them up).

Just sitting there, there is virtually no "head" or water pressure (if the 
water level in the radiator is 5" higher than the head/block joint, then 
there is 0.18 psi...not enough to piss your pants).  If that small amount of 
pressure pushed water out between the head and block by number 1 and filled 
up cylinders 2,3 & 4, you can't possibly be close to being torqued up to the 
proper clamping force.

First, what is the published torque value?  Last one I did was a Chevy 283 
and I remember they were 5/8 bolts (probably a fine thread) and it was 85 
ft-lbs.  Double check that you are using the correct torque value.

Second, one lister said he saw "pitting" on your head studs...I looked at the 
photos and couldn't see them clear enough.  If they're pitted, at least, take 
a wire brush to them and try to get them to the "clean" condition.  If they 
are severely pitted, rusty, buggered up, etc., definitely replace them.  If 
they "clean up", then consider applying a bit more torque to make up for the 
difference between new and used, assuming they've been "buggered" a bit.

Third, alluded to before by another lister, make sure you're using a decent 
torque wrench and using it properly.  Rent one to double check, if you need.  
there is a subtle art to applying all the torque to the bolt...if you use one 
hand, part of your leverage goes into trying to bend the bolt...the holding 
hand needs to apply a counteracting force equal to the force created by the 
pulling hand.  get a friend or professional to double check your 
torque...also, I've never trusted the "clicks-when-reaches-dialed-torque" 
type of torque wrenches, but i don't know why.

Fourth, I can't help feeling that you are way low on torque/clamping force, 
but where did you get your head gasket?  I bought a NOS gasket for my BN1 and 
it's a piece of crap, just from age and handling.

Please keep us up to date.

Regards.

Steve Mickelson & '54 BN1 "Brutus"

In a message dated 1/2/03 9:38:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, ryan@ledwith.com 
writes:

<< Thanks for all the suggestions. As I said before, I found some coolant 
leaking
 from my recently assembled engine at the head gasket. After a few hours I
 checked it again and found coolant leaking out of the spark plug holes for 
the
 #2,3,and 4 cylinders.  Not #1. I never attempted to start the engine. (good
 idea). >>

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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 23:13:54 +1100
Subject: Update to Healey Site

is by courtesy of Karsten Stelk. There is a Girling brochure on brake
specifications and adjustment procedures for the 100 series cars, a rare

Brochure, Stokvis and Zonen (Belgium) for the 100, and 3 movie posters
featuring the 100 from the movie "Speed Crazy". While the movie posters
are perhaps more along the line of the much remembered "Healey Babe"
thread some time back, they are naturally only added to the site for
their Healey content (Yea Right)
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/

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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 09:17:21 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

Happy Healeying,
Rick
BJ7, AN5

In a message dated 12/31/02 3:51:51 AM, AHCUSA@go.com writes:

<<As to why the BJ7 is valued less in the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide than any 
model besides the 100-6, I would say that in addition to personal observation 
of the market, this valuation reflects two things: first, that the BJ7 is a 
transition model -- it's neither a roadster nor the highest expression of the 
convertible -- and second, it will forever dwell in the shadow of the BJ8 
with its console/arm rest and walnut veneer dash, among other refinements, 
one of which is additional power.

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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:31:33 -0500 
Subject: RE: Healey Values -- Longish

If, as an additional advantage, it is cheaper to buy, that's just fine with
me.

Bill Moyer, BJ7



-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: AHCUSA@go.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: 1/4/03 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

Ouch, Reid!

Happy Healeying,
Rick
BJ7, AN5

In a message dated 12/31/02 3:51:51 AM, AHCUSA@go.com writes:

<<As to why the BJ7 is valued less in the AHCUSA Buyer's Price Guide
than any 
model besides the 100-6, I would say that in addition to personal
observation 
of the market, this valuation reflects two things: first, that the BJ7
is a 
transition model -- it's neither a roadster nor the highest expression
of the 
convertible -- and second, it will forever dwell in the shadow of the
BJ8 
with its console/arm rest and walnut veneer dash, among other
refinements, 
one of which is additional power.

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From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 09:50:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

D I T T O, Bill!!!!!!!!!!! (LOL'd tho)

Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 09:03:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Update to Healey Site

Would you mind to repost the Girling brake adjustment
information?  I think you got a couple of the scans
mixed up... it's incomeplete.

Happy New year!

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
> Hello Everyone
> Happy New Year! The January update to the Austin
> Healey Restoration Site
> 
> is by courtesy of Karsten Stelk. There is a Girling
> brochure on brake
> specifications and adjustment procedures for the 100
> series cars, a rare
> 
> Brochure, Stokvis and Zonen (Belgium) for the 100,
> and 3 movie posters
> featuring the 100 from the movie "Speed Crazy".
> While the movie posters
> are perhaps more along the line of the much
> remembered "Healey Babe"
> thread some time back, they are naturally only added
> to the site for
> their Healey content (Yea Right)
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/

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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 12:11:40 EST
Subject: heater control valve

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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 09:32:14 -0800
Subject: 100-4 thermostat

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 10:08:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: heater control valve

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- EJBJR935@aol.com wrote:
> <PRE>Hello to the list:  I have my Smiths Heater box
> painted and readt for 
> reassembly. Is there any reason why I can't use an o
> ring from the local 
> hardware store to seal the heater control valve and
> base? The Moss catalogue 
> seems to show two seals which makes no sense to me.
> If anyone has used an o 
> ring, do you recall the size? Thanks. EJB

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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 11:00:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:09 PM
Subject: Healey Values -- Longish

"....It is a ridiculous idea that a BJ7 would be worth more than a BJ8 in
comparable condition....By the way, I'd be interested to hear of ANY sales
of any BJ7 for more than $30,000.  I'll bet that such sales are exceedingly
rare....Why bother with a less luxurious, less powerful "transition
model"....the BJ7 is a transition model -- it's neither a roadster nor the
highest expression of the convertible...."

 Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine

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From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:00:18 -0000
Subject: Austin Healey BN4 - History request

The information obtained so far has come from the British Motor
Industry Heritage Trust, the original factory Build Card, the
California Certificate of Title, and the UK Customs & Excise
documentation.

In summary - The car was built in the Longbridge works and was
completed on 27th February 1957. The body number of 3625/2096 was
allocated with a chassis number of BN4L-O-35805. The engine fitted was
1C/35805. It is a Left-Hand drive car originally exported to Chicago
and it was fully loaded with all the extras including Wire Wheels,
Heater, Overdrive and laminated windscreen.  The finished colour was
Reno Red over Black with Red interior trim and a Black Hood (Top). 
Assuming the car was exported immediately, it wasn't registered to its
first owner until 1958 - sales were pretty slow at around that time I
believe.

Sometime between 1963 and 1969 the car arrived in California and was
provided with a 'Black Plate', License number EFL 386. The latest
stickers on the plate are for 'JAN' and '1980'.

At sometime in its life the standard cylinder head was replaced with
the later 6 port head.  This was an upgrade carried out by the factory
after the move from Longbridge to Abingdon.  It released a bit more
power and allowed the car to keep up with the earlier four cylnder 100
models (BN1 & 2).

It has also had a couple of colour changes during its life including
Blue and the current Old English white.  The original red is still
visible inside the doors and the boot.

The final owner in California was a Mr Jeff Laughlin of El Granada who
parted with the car in June 1998 to 'Austin Healey Associates
Limited', who imported the car back to the UK on behalf of Stephen
Langrish of Horndean in Hampshire.  It arrived in Felixstowe on 14th
July.  The car has been sold on a couple of times since then but no
restoration work has been started.

I discovered the car in August this year whilst talking and meeting
people at the Austin Healey 50th Anniversary at Thruxton.  It is
almost complete with just the seats missing, and it is amazingly solid
with very little rust

Pictures can be found at:
http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/Healey/

Many thanks for your patience.

AlanB.  Hampshire. UK

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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 15:00:47 -0500
Subject: BJ8 on E-Bay

A few bidders are sporting sunglasses(on-bay less than 30 days or changed
identities). The location of the car is in the rust-belt of the USA and
perhaps the most interesting thing is the VIN (are you reading this
Steve?).
Hope no one on the list is considering this one!

Scot
'66 BJ8

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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 15:19:21 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- MY 2 CENTS

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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 15:21:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

If I were to buy a 6 cylinder Healey it would be the BJ7 as it offers the
best of both worlds. It has, essentially, the roadster interior, but with
the convertible top and roll up windows. It also does not have the
cramped cockpit of the "console" BJ8. IMHO the BJ8 was the ultimate
refinement for the non-purist American market that wanted an English
sports car. Power? What are we taking about Reid? Is there that much of a
difference between the 100-4 and the BJ8. I have driven a Longbridge BN4
that can hold its own with the BJ8's. The BJ7 was the ideal "transition"
to a convertible which unfortunately became cluttered up ( or crammed in)
with the console and burled walnut dash which really made it go faster!!
If I wanted to ride in a suitcase I'd drive a Fiat!! Bob, you should be
happy as you have the best and the BJ8 [people are just jealous.

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2 (the other Healey)

On Sat, 4 Jan 2003 11:00:51 -0800 "R. Poague" <rapoague@gte.net> writes:
> Gee, here I'd been pretty happy with my BJ7 for the past 19 years, 
> not
> realizing it was a P.O.S. car.
> Bob
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AHCUSA@go.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:09 PM
> Subject: Healey Values -- Longish
> 
> "....It is a ridiculous idea that a BJ7 would be worth more than a 
> BJ8 in
> comparable condition....By the way, I'd be interested to hear of ANY 
> sales
> of any BJ7 for more than $30,000.  I'll bet that such sales are 
> exceedingly
> rare....Why bother with a less luxurious, less powerful "transition
> model"....the BJ7 is a transition model -- it's neither a roadster 
> nor the
> highest expression of the convertible...."
> 
>  Reid Trummel
> President, Austin-Healey Club USA
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>
> 
> 


________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Visit www.juno.com

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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 16:06:06 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

Happy Healeying,
Rick

In a message dated 1/4/03 4:25:11 PM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:

<<The BJ7 was the ideal "transition"
to a convertible which unfortunately became cluttered up ( or crammed in)
with the console and burled walnut dash which really made it go faster!!
If I wanted to ride in a suitcase I'd drive a Fiat!! Bob, you should be
happy as you have the best and the BJ8 [people are just jealous.

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2 (the other Healey)

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 16:06:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey BN4 - History request

Good luck in your search for history on your car.  Perhaps someone on the list
knows Mr. Laughlin from California or can otherwise provide some information
about the history, or some leads.  A search on the usual internet "people
finders" turns up only one Laughlin in El Granada, California, but the first
name is different from the one you give.
You can get in touch with the keeper of the BN4 registry at
http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm.  Perhaps the car was registered with
the AHCA at some time in the past.

One piece of bad luck you have is that the car came from California.  The
various states of the U.S. have different laws and policies concerning the
availability of vehicle registration information.  California is one of the
worst, since the Department of Motor Vehicles there keeps a record of an
inactive registration for only 4 years, then it is destroyed.   If your car
left California in 1998, then it's likely that the records are gone.   In
contrast, the state of Tennessee keeps the records for 50 years, Florida for
15 years, and my own state of North Carolina has them back to 1964.
If you want to give California a try anyway, you can get the information you
need here:  http://www.dmv.ca.gov/
You'll have to fill out some forms and pay some fees.

I keep the BJ8 Model registry and frequently receive requests from European
owners of ex-U.S. cars to help trace history.  The lack of resources for such
efforts is the main reason I have been trying to document for posterity as
much ownership history on each BJ8 as possible.  So much of it for so many of
them has already been lost for good.

Sorry to bring such a negative note, but again, good luck in your search, and
good luck with the car!

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC



  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alan Bromfield
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 3:00 PM
  Subject: Austin Healey BN4 - History request


  I have recently bought a California registered Healey and I am hoping
  to fill in some background to the car's history. As these cars attract
  a great deal of nostalgic loyalty from their owners, this shot in the
  dark might just throw up some information about the cars earlier life.

  The information obtained so far has come from the British Motor
  Industry Heritage Trust, the original factory Build Card, the
  California Certificate of Title, and the UK Customs & Excise
  documentation.

  In summary - The car was built in the Longbridge works and was
  completed on 27th February 1957. The body number of 3625/2096 was
  allocated with a chassis number of BN4L-O-35805. The engine fitted was
  1C/35805. It is a Left-Hand drive car originally exported to Chicago
  and it was fully loaded with all the extras including Wire Wheels,
  Heater, Overdrive and laminated windscreen.  The finished colour was
  Reno Red over Black with Red interior trim and a Black Hood (Top).
  Assuming the car was exported immediately, it wasn't registered to its
  first owner until 1958 - sales were pretty slow at around that time I
  believe.

  Sometime between 1963 and 1969 the car arrived in California and was
  provided with a 'Black Plate', License number EFL 386. The latest
  stickers on the plate are for 'JAN' and '1980'.

  At sometime in its life the standard cylinder head was replaced with
  the later 6 port head.  This was an upgrade carried out by the factory
  after the move from Longbridge to Abingdon.  It released a bit more
  power and allowed the car to keep up with the earlier four cylnder 100
  models (BN1 & 2).

  It has also had a couple of colour changes during its life including
  Blue and the current Old English white.  The original red is still
  visible inside the doors and the boot.

  The final owner in California was a Mr Jeff Laughlin of El Granada who
  parted with the car in June 1998 to 'Austin Healey Associates
  Limited', who imported the car back to the UK on behalf of Stephen
  Langrish of Horndean in Hampshire.  It arrived in Felixstowe on 14th
  July.  The car has been sold on a couple of times since then but no
  restoration work has been started.

  I discovered the car in August this year whilst talking and meeting
  people at the Austin Healey 50th Anniversary at Thruxton.  It is
  almost complete with just the seats missing, and it is amazingly solid
  with very little rust

  Pictures can be found at:
  http://freespace.virgin.net/alan.bromfield/Healey/

  Many thanks for your patience.

  AlanB.  Hampshire. UK

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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 16:10:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

--Michael
'55 BN1

> That's the beauty of my system.  It's a permanent condition,
> so I don't have to tempt anyone by driving it to the mall.

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 16:14:25 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 on E-Bay

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Scot Paulson
  To: healey list
  Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 3:00 PM
  Subject: BJ8 on E-Bay


  Was surfing on E-bay and saw a black over red 65' BJ8 for sale. Interesting
  that in the short time the car has been up there are already 22 bids on it!

  A few bidders are sporting sunglasses(on-bay less than 30 days or changed
  identities). The location of the car is in the rust-belt of the USA and
  perhaps the most interesting thing is the VIN (are you reading this
  Steve?).
  Hope no one on the list is considering this one!

  Scot
  '66 BJ8

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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 14:26:12 -0800
Subject: Fuel Pump Tick-Tick

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 17:18:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

Someday...   I bought the beast in '74 (!).  I've been waiting for
the right mix of time, money, space, and an understanding S.O. 
with which to start working on it.  I still have the dream.  And 
isn't it the dream that keeps us all going?

Kent
'56 100 BN2, "Rusty"

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 17:34:10 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's


> I am doing some research and have a question to ask does any one know the
> number of Healey's existing or would like to make a good guess, I have
> production Figures.
> 

42,379... 

No, actually, I'm making that up.   If anyone ever figures out how to figure 
out how many Healeys (or MGBs, or Triumph TR2-6s or whatever) still exist, 
give me a call.   Tell you a secret -- even Robert Goldsmith, co-owner of 
Moss Motors, doesn't even have an idea of how to estimate how many British 
cars are on the road. Not a clue.

Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine

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From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 17:53:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

There are LOTS of "clues" Mr. Goldsmith doesn't HAVE, Gary.

Revist my brother Ed's site and check out Product Comparisons!

Geesh.

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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 18:59:00 -0500 
Subject: RE: Number of Healey's

 If anyone ever figures out how to
figure out how many Healeys  still exist, give me a call.   Tell you a
secret -- even Robert Goldsmith, co-owner of Moss Motors, doesn't even have
an idea of how to estimate how many British cars are on the road. Not a
clue.

Well, Gary, maybe Mr. Goldsmith just isn't a statistician.  There's a way to
estimate anything, you just have to deal with the size of the error of
estimate.  In the case of Healeys we have a pretty good production count.  I
don't know it, but I'll bet you do.  I hereby predict that there are no more
on the road than originally produced.  I am 100% confident of that, no error
there.

The next question is how many less than that are there?  In addition, we are
limiting it to how many are on the road.  That makes it harder.  I'd
estimate that at least a third of those still in some kind of existence are
not road-worthy.  New "half-restored" cars pop up all the time.  I've seen a
barn in New Jersey with at least a hundred doors in it, along with bonnets,
fenders, etc., so my prediction is that a fair piece of the original
production is dissected or nothing but parts.  Wanna say a third?  Half?
Not more than that because people think their BJ8 which they stopped driving
25 years ago "because the brake line broke" is worth a fortune.  Every time
I take mine out I hear stories about the 1 or 2 some guy has in a barn in
Intercourse, PA.  

So, if there were 60,00 produced, maybe 60% still exist in some form.  If
2/3 of those are still on the road, there are about 24,000 still happily
motoring.

There are other ways to do the estimate if you have the time or energy.
I've got club lists with cars owned annotated.  Estimate what percentage of
owners belong to the clubs and do the math.  Ask Moss motors how many
customers they have.  Call all the repair facilities and ask them how many
cars they service per year and work from that.  Combine them all into one
function and run it through a statistics package.

I guarantee, you won't be more than 30,000 off.  And if your guesses are
informed its unlikely you'll be more than 25% off.  Heinsenberg taught us
that there is no reality.  The existing Healeys could never be actually be
counted, by the time you got done, more of them would have been lost, so
you'll always be wrong.  That doesn't mean we can make an estimate, its just
those that can't bear a 5% error rate that can't stand it.   That's one
thing we can be sure of, there are always fewer this year than there were
last year.

Bill

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 20:07:02 -0500
Subject: Tires info

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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:01:40 EST
Subject: Re: Tires info

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:11:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

Don't know as I can agree with you here.  If the number of 100M has
increased over the number built, who is to say that ALL the Healey models
aren't breeding somewhere?  :)

Keith Pennell

> I hereby predict that there are no more
> on the road than originally produced.  I am 100% confident of that, no
error
> there.
> Bill

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:16:30 -0500
Subject: Re: heater control valve

I used 2 O rings from Lowe's several months back.  Seems to be holding up
fine though I was not fully comfortable with having to use 2.  The size I
think was 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD, 1/8 cross section.  May have been 5/8 x 7/8.  The
1/8 thickness is just a little shy of ideal.  3/16 would be just right.

Keith Pennell

> <PRE>Hello to the list:  I have my Smiths Heater box painted and readt for
> reassembly. Is there any reason why I can't use an o ring from the local
> hardware store to seal the heater control valve and base? The Moss
catalogue
> seems to show two seals which makes no sense to me. If anyone has used an
o
> ring, do you recall the size? Thanks. EJB

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 20:28:30 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 thermostat

* * * * * * * * * * 
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along 
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work.  In easy to 
understand writing.  220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767  
www.britishcarspecialists.com

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 19:00:55 -0800
Subject: electrical problem

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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 21:43:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 22:55:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Tires info

I had mine done by Tyrolean Motors in East Northport.
If you need to have your wire wheels checked out you can
take them to Atlantic Wheel in Deer Park (586-8900)

Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steven Tjepkema
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Tires info


Hi everybody need a bit more information on the Michelin 175R15zx and who
does the mounting [on wire] here on long Island  NY  Thanks Steve  58bn4

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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 23:42:09 -0600
Subject: Taper Pin removal

Thanks,    Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 00:37:25 EST
Subject: Re: electrical problem

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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 16:14:14 +1000
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

     "Real sportscars don't have windup windows"


Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia

'58 BN4



| Well, Rick and Reid, I prefer to view the BJ7 as having most of the
| advantages of the earlier models and non of the frufru nonsense of the
| later, dressier model.  Specifically, for example, you can stay reasonably
| dry in a sudden shower in a BJ7, try putting that horror of a hood up on a
| 100-6 in the rain.  Sure, you can drop the windscreen on earlier models
and
| that looks really rakish, but then you'd better have a full coverage
helmet
| to wear because the windscreen now blasts all those bugs right up your
nose.
| The BJ7 -has- an arm rest, if not built rigidly into the tunnel.  It's
still
| a 3000 and the horsepower increase in the BJ8 is somewhat overcome by the
| increased weight.  The BJ8 actually has -less- torque, so its advantage is
| solely off the line; note the quarter mile times are only a second apart.
| The power brakes are a nice safety feature, but not really necessary.  The
| walnut dash is a taste preference and since there's no accounting for
taste,
| I prefer the original clean lines of the older dash, it's not trying to be
a
| Jag.  You might as well have a radio in the BJ8 because the exhaust note
| isn't very interesting. The BJ7 also gets better gas mileage.
|

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From "john metcalfe" <john.metcalfe3 at ntlworld.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:58:50 +0000 (GMT Standard Time)
Subject: Re: Thank you

John Metcalfe
BN4  BT7

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
IMSTP.gif]

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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 07:30:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Taper Pin removal

Mark,

I don't think you'll need to ream the bushings.  No thoughts about removing the 
taper pin other than to confirm that you're hitting the correct end - the end 
on the gearbox side.

I wrote up some notes when I did redid the bushings in my bell housing 
(http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/gearbox/cltchpvt.html).  If you 
have any comments you'd like to add to the article, send them to me.


Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 07:48:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Taper Pin removal

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mark and kathy LaPierre
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 12:42 AM
  Subject: Taper Pin removal


      Can someone please advise me on the best way to remove the taper pin
  that holds the clutch fork to the bell housing.  I would like to rebush the
  housing and need to remove the fork first.
      I haven't quite mutilated the pin completely yet with a punch and
  hammer,  but am on the road to do so.
      Any advise on reaming the new bushes would help too.  Is that
necessary?

  Thanks,    Mark,
  58-MGA
  60-MGA
  76-MGB
  74.5-MGBGT
  60-BT7

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun,  5 Jan 2003 07:09:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 08:27:30 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

I am not sure there are less Healey's every year.  When I started this Healey 
way of life, Healeys were considered "throw-away-cars."  I could find better 
cars in the junk yard then I find today for $5000.  Over the years I think I 
have put five or six back on the road from total disasters and sold several 
others that are now back on the road. Every year I still get someone who 
wants to sell me a car their friend has in some small town in Pennsylvania 
that hasn't been driven in twenty years (I even bought one - what a 
disaster).  Even the most destroyed cars seem to get sold and somehow pieced 
together.  I helped a friend load a BJ8 that had been broadsided (in the 
70's) so hard that the passenger seat was folded in half (luckily no one was 
in it).  That car is going to get a new frame and be pieced back together.  
Maybe the number is growing. 

All-in-all it would be a fun exercise to estimate the number of Healeys, by 
model of course, still live.

John

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 08:35:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

John -

Nobody knows the number of Healeys existing, and we are not likely ever to
have an accurate "census".  From the point of view of someone who has been
trying to count just the BJ8 Healeys since 1997, there are a lot of hindrances
to making such a count.

First, unless one wants to sit back and wait until owners volunteer the
information on their cars to a central "counting point" (i.e., a registry), it
takes a large amount of time and effort to identify the cars -- collecting
data at car shows;  regularly checking all the many different classified ads,
eBay, etc.;  poring through lists of cars and owners periodically provided by
clubs around the world and writing directly to those who have not identified
WHICH car it is that they own.   There is a certain quantity of owners who do
not want the identity of their cars known, for whatever reason.   There are
also a large number of owners who have no clue that anyone is trying to count
the cars, so it's a continuing effort to publicize the registries.  Then there
are those who might know about the registries, but see no particular value in
them for themselves personally and so don't want to make the effort to
contribute the data on their own car for the overall benefit of the Healey
community, now and in the future.  Association of the cars with personal
information about owners (names/addresses, etc.) makes exchange of information
between registries very difficult, due to privacy concerns, so it is not easy
for registrars to cooperate to achieve an integrated list.

 In the almost 6 years of actively pursuing identification of BJ8s,  I have
been able to account for only about 25% of original 17,712 BJ8 production
(4,262 individual cars worldwide, as of today).   Since the registry has been
growing at the rate of about 20 cars per month, there are still a lot of them
out there to be identified.    But even so, it's not likely that we will ever
know how close to "complete" the count is.   All of those missing numbers ----
have the cars just not surfaced yet, or did they go the junkyard back in the
'60s and '70s?

I believe Tom Blaskovics in the BJ7 Registry has accounted for about 10% or so
of the 6,113 cars originally manufactured.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry (http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8quest.html)
Havelock, NC  USA




----- Original Message -----
  Subject: Re: Number of Healey's


  In a message dated 1/3/03 4:58:08 AM, john.metcalfe3@ntlworld.com writes:


  > I am doing some research and have a question to ask does any one know the
  > number of Healey's existing or would like to make a good guess, I have
  > production Figures.

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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 09:06:28 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 09:13:54 EST
Subject: Re: "Q" cc`s

You have a early 2900 engine.

Jerry Anderson
Greensboro, NC
BN4

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 08:50:19 -0600
Subject: Number of Healeys

Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 09:51:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

        "It is impossible to have high speed performance without proper
streamlining - but I do mean streamlining, not the addition of chromium
motifs and chromium strips along the waist line".

    Could he be referring to the shape of the car in general, and the
windscreen in particular, leaks and all, but perhaps not a fancy cockpit???

                                                             CB

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 10:08:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

I believe the auto insurance companies have a handle on the normal attrition
rate.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Don Yarber
  To: Healey List
  Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 9:50 AM
  Subject: Number of Healeys


  Does anyone have any idea as to the normal "attrition" rate of automobiles
in general?
  What percent of the total number of cars manufactured since the invention of
the automobile are still in existence?

  Don
  BN7
  "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 10:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's - longish as well

    I was talking to friends, between beers, the other night and found out
that two 100-6's that have been off the books for many years are in the
process of being resuscitated.

    One was in a guy's back yard, pretty well sunk into the ground, under a
tree that he was hoping would fall on it for the insurance money; the other
was in a guy's very damp basement rotting and rusting (depending on the
material referred to) for so long that the last time I talked to him (say,
8-9 years ago) his wife was waiting for him to pass on so she could 'get rid
of all his junk'.

    These are two that have been uncounted for at least ten years, and
likely more. Multiply this by states, counties, cantons, provinces, parishes
and countries and you have several hundred right there.

    Tough count in my mind to get to a believable total. There are folks who
belong to clubs that never show up for meetings or events (these cars are
counted) and there must be many more who don't belong to any organized
Healey activity (these cars aren't counted).

    I think Gary's recent estimate is about as close as we'll get; what was
it - 41,997, not including the nasty boys?

    Regards,
                                                                CB

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 10:21:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

    If you get anyone to attempt this calculation, tell them to call me as
they have too much spare time on their hands.

    I have some yard work that needs done and my garage needs cleaned up and
painted, inside and out.

    I have an idea how to do this but cannot spare the time I now invest in
reading e-mails.

                                                                    CB

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 10:52:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8


> Does anyone have any idea as to the normal "attrition" rate of automobiles
in general?
> What percent of the total number of cars manufactured since the invention
of the automobile are still in existence?

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From jernigan at mweb.co.za
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 15:57:17 GMT
Subject: Speedo angle drive advice

---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using M-Web Airmail.
JUST LIKE THAT
Are you ready for 10-digit dialling?
To find out how this will affect your Internet connection go to 
www.mweb.co.za/ten
http://airmail.mweb.co.za/

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From jernigan at mweb.co.za
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 16:09:34 GMT
Subject: Speedo angle drive advice

---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using M-Web Airmail.
JUST LIKE THAT
Are you ready for 10-digit dialling?
To find out how this will affect your Internet connection go to 
www.mweb.co.za/ten
http://airmail.mweb.co.za/

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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:26:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:57:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Speedo angle drive advice

BTW where is za? Zimbabwe? 

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of jernigan@mweb.co.za
Sent: 5-Jan-03 10:57 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Speedo angle drive advice

    The flexible drive cable on the transmission side of my speedo angle
drive
unit has sheared off inside the angle drive. Can this short cable be
replaced,
or do I need to get a whole new angle drive unit? Thanks for the advice
....

---------------------------------------------

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 12:03:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: James Lea
  To: Steve Byers ; Healey List
  Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:26 AM
  Subject: Re: Number of Healeys


  Don and Steve. My guess is that if you graphed the attrition rate the curve
  was steep in the seventies leveled out in the eighties and went back down
in
  the early nineties and is now almost level. Most cars that are around today
  will probably still be around in another twenty years. That should make the
  identification and counting of them easier as time goes by. Eventually they
  will all be so valuable that we will know where everyone of them is.
Cheers,
  JL

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 12:28:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Number of Healey's

> In the case of Healeys we have a pretty good production 
> count.  I don't know it, but I'll bet you do.  I hereby predict 
> that there are no more on the road than originally produced.  
> I am 100% confident of that, no error there.

I'm not sure about that.  Aren't there more 100 M / Le Mans
today than were originally built?

> Heinsenberg taught us that there is no reality.  

Are you certain about that?

Kent, having fun :-)
'56 100 BN2, "Rusty"

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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 10:13:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey values

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun,  5 Jan 2003 12:38:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun,  5 Jan 2003 12:41:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun,  5 Jan 2003 12:44:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey values

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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:30:49 -0500 
Subject: RE: Number of Healeys

Bill Moyer 

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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:35:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: A G E !!!!<G>


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:44:53 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's


> is heinsenberg a lister ?
> 

I'm not certain.

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 13:52:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 12:18:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Automobile Survival and Scrappage Rates

Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)

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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 15:29:21 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

> No, he's on the Porsche list!!
>                       HoYo
> ps  and i think on the Jag list,too.......................... 
> >
> >>is heinsenberg a lister ?

Hummm, I thought he was on the Wolwo list...

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From "paul Jennings" <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:27:48 -0000
Subject: Re: Healey Values

This wouldn't be the 'nancy dash' (as we call it in Staffordshire) would it?
;-)

Paul Jennings
Wounded '63 BJ7

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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 15:43:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

Steve. I don't think that crooks who steal cars pick the ones that are
registered, licensed and rare enough that they will be easy to trace, or am
I living in naive-land here in Maine? It seems to me the car would be safer
if it WAS registered.

<Combine that with the
 > fear that their car might have been stolen at some point in its history,
and
 > somebody will come to take it away from them.>

Could someone really do that? It would be interesting to know ( if there are
any lawyers on board ) if it would be possible assuming you had a good title
and bill of sale for someone to come and claim your car. If they cannot,
then we all should know it and maybe a few more will register. Cheers, JL

James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 Tri-carb

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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 16:10:28 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 14:11:34 -0800
Subject: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 17:26:47 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

> > is heinsenberg a lister ?
> >
>
> I'm not certain.
>
>
Gary and others interested in the esoteric...
I'm sure he is not a lister... because...
Heisenberg, Werner Karl (1901-1976)

Werner Heisenberg was born on 5th December, 1901, at W|rzburg. He was the son
of Dr. August Heisenberg and his wife Annie Wecklein. His father later became
Professor of the Middle and Modern Greek languages in the University of
Munich.


Heisenberg's name will always be associated with his theory of quantum
mechanics, published in 1925, when he was only 23 years old. For this theory
and the applications of it which resulted especially in the discovery of
allotropic forms of hydrogen, Heisenberg was awarded the Nobel Prize for
Physics for 1932.

His new theory was based only on what can be observed, that is to say, on the
radiation emitted by the atom. We cannot, he said, always assign to an
electron a position in space at a given time, nor follow it in its orbit, so
that we cannot assume that the planetary orbits postulated by Niels Bohr
actually exist. Mechanical quantities, such as position, velocity, etc.
should be represented, not by ordinary numbers, but by abstract mathematical
structures called "matrices" and he formulated his new theory in terms of
matrix equations.

Later Heisenberg stated his famous principle of uncertainty, which lays it
down that the determination of the position and momentum of a mobile particle
necessarily contains errors the product of which cannot be less than the
quantum constant h and that, although these errors are negligible on the
human scale, they cannot be ignored in studies of the atom.

Bill Emerson
Who loves physics and Healeys (Not always in that order)

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun,  5 Jan 2003 16:31:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Values

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 17:36:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

100-6s forever!!!!!

Bob Denton

John Soderling wrote:

> HI List,
> Nice day in the Bay Area today.  Almost 70 degrees in the San Ramon Valley.
> Took Erika the Red out for a short three mile drive to Starbucks in Danville.
> On the way down passed a dark blue Cobra replica and a beautiful red over
> white coves, '57 to '59 Corvette.  While sipping a Starbuck's mocha at a
> sidewalk table, saw a yellow bugeye with a V8 stuffed in with a blower
> sticking out of the bonnet.  I remember this car at Open Roads 2002 Tahoe.  On
> the way home passed another Cobra, this one bright red, and a blue 37 Ford
> coupe.
> Of course, had three people want to talk Healeys while nursing my coffee.
> Never fails when you park a your Healey.  What great cars!
> Go 49ers and Raiders!
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six  Erika the Red
> Life doesn't get much better.

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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 17:48:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 18:13:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

No.  He died before the Internet was born.

A Goolge search on "heisenberg uncertainty principle" turns up a 
number of hits.  From http://www.aip.org/history/heisenberg/p08_text.htm:

WERNER HEISENBERG (1901 - 1976) was one of the greatest physicists 
of the twentieth century.  He is best known as a founder of quantum 
mechanics, the new physics of the  atomic world, and especially for the 
uncertainty principle in quantum theory. 

His theory:

"The more precisely the position is determined, the less precisely the 
momentum is known in this instant, and vice versa."  --  Heisenberg,
uncertainty paper, 1927

One of the opponents of Heisenberg's theory was Erwin Schrvdinger.  
He had a cat.

HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN2

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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 18:16:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

BTW this thread beats the heck out of the esoteric one on how many Healeys
survived. I have mine, you have yours - what else is needed?


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
To: "Cully and Julie Anderson" <cullyjul@securenym.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 5:11 PM
Subject: Eat Your Heart Out :)


> HI List,
> Nice day in the Bay Area today.  Almost 70 degrees in the San Ramon
Valley.
> Took Erika the Red out for a short three mile drive to Starbucks in
Danville.
> On the way down passed a dark blue Cobra replica and a beautiful red over
> white coves, '57 to '59 Corvette.  While sipping a Starbuck's mocha at a
> sidewalk table, saw a yellow bugeye with a V8 stuffed in with a blower
> sticking out of the bonnet.  I remember this car at Open Roads 2002 Tahoe.
On
> the way home passed another Cobra, this one bright red, and a blue 37 Ford
> coupe.
> Of course, had three people want to talk Healeys while nursing my coffee.
> Never fails when you park a your Healey.  What great cars!
> Go 49ers and Raiders!
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six  Erika the Red
> Life doesn't get much better.

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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:36:44 -0500
Subject: Racing Screens

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:06:28 -0600
Subject: Looking for an email address for Bill Bolton

Brian

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From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:43:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Looking for an email address for Bill Bolton

It's in you Resource Book and/or Membership book, Brian!!

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 19:04:22 -0600
Subject: Don't need Bill Boltons address anymore----got multiple copies

Brian

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:44:54 EST
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's--Now Atom joke & trip report

> His new theory was based only on what can be observed, that is to say, on 
> the
> radiation emitted by the atom. We cannot, he said, always assign to an
> electron a position in space at a given time, nor follow it in its orbit, 
> so
> that we cannot assume that the planetary orbits postulated by Niels Bohr
> actually exist. 

Which leads me to my favorite--and only--Atom joke:

Two atoms are walking out of  a bar--The first atom stops and says to the 
second atom:  "Dammit, I left one of my electrons back in the bar!"  The 
second atom says: "Are you sure?", to which the first replies:  "Yes, I'm 
positive"....

Today I took the Hatteras and Ocracoke Ferries down the Outer Banks, on my 
way south with Mary's BN7, met Steve Byers and his lovely wife Frieda in 
Beaufort, NC in his BJ8, drove back to their place in (Where the Hell is) 
Havelock, NC and had a fine Chinese dinner.  He liked the joke.  Heading to 
Hendrix Wire Wheels tomorrow in Greensboro, NC for a new set of Michelins.

Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans 

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:50:54 EST
Subject: Re: Racing Screens

<< who makes a nice reproduction?  I did see a
AH one on Ebay that sold for around $600, out of my range.
Thanks in advance
Terry 100-M >>

cape-international.com has a set of AH racing screens available. I don't know 
the price, but they should be well under 600.00/

Rick
San Diego

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:14:38 -0600
Subject: New Top Needed

What kind of price can I expect to pay?

Thanks
Don
BN7 (Near Evansville, IN)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 21:36:50 EST
Subject: Re: Racing Screens

Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member

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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:53:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 carburetor problem

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:03:03 EST
Subject: Re: heater control valve

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
 
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 19:36:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 carburetor problem

It sounds like to me that the float lever is not
adjusted properly on your float bowl.  If it hangs too
low (or the set up is too loose) then the float
chamber needle can fall out and cause the problems you
are talking about.

Tighten up the fall distance of the float lever as
described in your shop manual (I don't know the
figures off the top of my head).  You adjust it by
bending the little tab on the back side of the lever
closer to the top of the float bowl cover.  It's a
very simple adjustment.

You may also want to use some carb cleaner and clean
out the floats to make sure there isn't any latent old
fuel "varnish" gumming up your floats.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
  
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> I had the carburetors in my BJ8 rebuilt 1.5 yrs ago
> and since then I got distracted with other projects
> and didn't start the car for a year. A couple of
> weeks
> ago I tried to start it and the carburetors flooded
> spilling gasoline all over the garage floor. I
> disassembled the flbowlmber and found that the
> floats
> were stuck and one of the needle valves had fallen
> out
> of their cavity and was laying on top of the float.
> I
> took the floats out and thoroughly cleaned the float
> the chamber, the floats and the needle valve
> passages,
> and reassembled everything.
> Today I tried starting the Healey with the clean
> carburetors and they flooded again spilling gasoline
> on the garage floor. This was my first time working
> with SU carbs and the fuel bowl seems very simple. I
> did observed that the needle valves seem not to move
> smoothly in their cavity and they were sticking open
> or close unless I jiggled teven thoughough I had
> everything very clean.
> I would appreciate any helpful comments.
> Thanks
> Jorge

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:51:13 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Eat=20Your=20Heart=20Out=A0--=20Next=20week=3F=20?=

I've got the place on the San Francisco peninsula, halfway between San 
Francisco and San Jose and just across the bay from Milpitas. The location is 
Krispy Kreme doughnuts at the Rengsdorf exit off Hwy 101 in Mountain View 
(that's north of 237 and south of 92). It shares a parking lot with a Costco 
which doesn't open until 10, so lots and lots of room early in the morning. I 
don't have anything formal in mind. If you feel like a drive early on a 
Saturday morning and want an excuse, drive on over -- anytime between 8:30 
and 10 am. There may be no one else there, or someone else who sees this and 
passes the word might be there.

If you think this is an interesting idea, pass it on to your car friends. 
I'll drive over for a couple of weeks and spread the word around and we'll 
see if anything starts to take shape by this spring.
Cheers
Gary Anderson

Pass the word to other friends 

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 20:52:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

What is an antonym for attrition anyway?

Bill Lawrence

Rich C wrote:

> I think that most of these observations are true in that there are a lot of
> cars out there that were stricken from the records so to speak, that are now
> being rebuilt into good examples once again. I myself have a July '54 BN1
> that was completely dismantled in the 1970's (thank goodness it's all there)
> which will one day be a driving car again.
> There are unfortunately however a lot of them out there that are still being
> parted out every day for the almighty dollar. I know of 3 instances in this
> immediate area where two and in one case three cars have been permanently
> parted out to build one good one respectively.
> You really can't blame the restorer; there were so many parts missing from
> the cars, or the cars were so rotten this was the easiest way to get the end
> result.
> Rich Chrysler

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 20:55:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

Bill Lawrence

Healeyolic wrote:

> It is a lousy day in the East. Not only is it snowing, the GD Giants just
> pulled ahead 28 -14 over my beloved 49ers.

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 22:59:17 EST
Subject: Re: Racing Screens


> Hi Everyone
> I have a 100-M that I love the looks of with the windshield down.  The
> problem is I don't like the forced air into my face.  I have seen pictures
> of cars with the windshields in the down position and a set of the
> Brooklands racing screens mounted.  If anyone has one of these cars does it
> deflect alot of the wind?  If so who makes a nice reproduction?  I did see
> a
> AH one on Ebay that sold for around $600, out of my range.
> Thanks in advance
> Terry 100-M
>
The standard "Aeroscreen" is exactly the same style as the AH one -- in fact,
it looks to me as if they're the same thing, just with a different trademark
cast in the center. I have an Aeroscreen windshield on my MGA and believe me,
it makes a significant improvement -- I'm always amazed when I ride in the
passenger seat of my MGA -- can barely hold my head up in the wind stream
with my helmet on.   In the driver seat, that little windshield deflects the
wind, rain, dust very nicely.

I think new reproductions may even be available from Moss, but I know that
several of the racing supply companies that cater for vintage racers stock
them for a reasonable price.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 21:12:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart =?iso-8859-1?Q?Out=A0=2D=2D?= Next week?

Bill Lawrence

Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> After doing a story last year on the Doughnut Derelicts who meet every
> Saturday morning from dawn to about 9:30 at a doughnut shop in LA (attracting
> several 100 interesting cars of all species), and getting information on the
> "Sons of Lucas" who do the same thing (though just for British cars) in San
> Luis Obispo, I've been looking around the bay area for a good place where we
> could do the same and invite our confreres of other automotive persuasions to
> join us.
>
> I've got the place on the San Francisco peninsula, halfway between San
> Francisco and San Jose and just across the bay from Milpitas. The location is
> Krispy Kreme doughnuts at the Rengsdorf exit off Hwy 101 in Mountain View
> (that's north of 237 and south of 92). It shares a parking lot with a Costco
> which doesn't open until 10, so lots and lots of room early in the morning. I
> don't have anything formal in mind. If you feel like a drive early on a
> Saturday morning and want an excuse, drive on over -- anytime between 8:30
> and 10 am. There may be no one else there, or someone else who sees this and
> passes the word might be there.
>
> If you think this is an interesting idea, pass it on to your car friends.
> I'll drive over for a couple of weeks and spread the word around and we'll
> see if anything starts to take shape by this spring.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
> Pass the word to other friends

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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 23:41:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

John

----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
Cc: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>; "Cully and Julie Anderson"
<cullyjul@securenym.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out :)


> Ye of little faith! What a fourth quarter.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Healeyolic wrote:
>
> > It is a lousy day in the East. Not only is it snowing, the GD Giants
just
> > pulled ahead 28 -14 over my beloved 49ers.

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 22:03:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

Bill

Healeyolic wrote:

> And the best part of it was staying up to watch the NYC 11:30 news and their
> crocodile tears. Yogi was correct - It ain't over 'til it's over.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
> Cc: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>; "Cully and Julie Anderson"
> <cullyjul@securenym.net>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:55 PM
> Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out :)
>
> > Ye of little faith! What a fourth quarter.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Healeyolic wrote:
> >
> > > It is a lousy day in the East. Not only is it snowing, the GD Giants
> just
> > > pulled ahead 28 -14 over my beloved 49ers.

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 07:37:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out  :)

    Browns = negative 3

                                                                CB

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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 07:54:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Smiths +/- 50 AMP meter

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2


________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Visit www.juno.com

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From "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 08:18:17 -0500
Subject: clutch wore out?

I'm new to the Austin Healey list (just joined a couple of days ago).  I
have a 1961 3000 Mark 1.

The car was restored from about 1975-1980 by my father and my uncle and is
still in good running condition.  I do however have a problem that sometimes
when it is hot outside and I've driven the car a bit the clutch/transmission
will start acting up.  Sometimes when I'm at a stop I can't get the car into
gear at all.  The car has about 65,000 original miles on it and the clutch
has never been changed.  Does anyone know what a reasonable life expectancy
is for the clutch?  I've never driven another Austin-Healey so I'm having a
hard time because I don't know what the clutch should feel life.

Question number 2:  What weight of oil do you recommend for the engine and
transmission (It only gets started in the summer)?  I've heard different
answers to this question (straight 30 weight, 10w-30, 10w-40,20w-50 etc.)
Some people have told me the transmission should take a different grade than
the engine and some people have told me I can use the same.

Thanks for your help!

Justin Laborde
Ypsilanti, Michigan

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 08:59:59 -0500
Subject: RE: clutch wore out?

Welcome to the world of Healeys. I hope we can be of assistance. 

The problem with your clutch is very possibly just due to some air in
the hydraulic system which operates the clutch. This is solved by
bleeding the clutch system.

If this does not solve the problem you need to check to ensure that the
clutch arm, on the side of the clutch housing (bell housing) is in fact
moving when the pedal is pressed. 

Occasionally clutch problems of the type you are describing are caused
by the disintegration of the clutch disc which will require that the
gearbox be removed and the clutch replaced.  

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Justin Laborde
Sent: 6-Jan-03 8:18 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: clutch wore out?

Hello everyone,

I'm new to the Austin Healey list (just joined a couple of days ago).  I
have a 1961 3000 Mark 1.

The car was restored from about 1975-1980 by my father and my uncle and
is
still in good running condition.  I do however have a problem that
sometimes
when it is hot outside and I've driven the car a bit the
clutch/transmission
will start acting up.  Sometimes when I'm at a stop I can't get the car
into
gear at all.  The car has about 65,000 original miles on it and the
clutch
has never been changed.  Does anyone know what a reasonable life
expectancy
is for the clutch?  I've never driven another Austin-Healey so I'm
having a
hard time because I don't know what the clutch should feel life.

Question number 2:  What weight of oil do you recommend for the engine
and
transmission (It only gets started in the summer)?  I've heard different
answers to this question (straight 30 weight, 10w-30, 10w-40,20w-50
etc.)
Some people have told me the transmission should take a different grade
than
the engine and some people have told me I can use the same.

Thanks for your help!

Justin Laborde
Ypsilanti, Michigan

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 09:22:26 -0500
Subject: Re: clutch wore out?

Your clutch problem could be in the hydraulics, especially if the car has
been unused for a couple of years or more.  Get under the car (with proper
jack stands of course), and watch the action of the slave cylinder whilst an
assistant operates the clutch pedal.  If the motion seems sluggish, you may
need master cylinder and/or slave work or possibly, the system just needs to
be bled.  Also, sometimes the rubber flex hose on the slave deteriorates
internally, the rubber swells and blocks the flow of fluid.    However
65,000 miles may be a lot for a clutch, depending on how carefully the car
has been driven, so a clutch job is probably in order.  Change the pressure
plate, clutch disc, and release bearing, and while you have the gearbox out,
do a rebuild on the slave cylinder, and replace the rubber hose and clevis
pin.

Good luck, and welcome to the list

Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7

PS...look for fluid seepage into the footwell  from the master cylinder.
This would be a clue for a MS rebuild.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 8:18 AM
Subject: clutch wore out?


> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm new to the Austin Healey list (just joined a couple of days ago).  I
> have a 1961 3000 Mark 1.
>
> The car was restored from about 1975-1980 by my father and my uncle and is
> still in good running condition.  I do however have a problem that
sometimes
> when it is hot outside and I've driven the car a bit the
clutch/transmission
> will start acting up.  Sometimes when I'm at a stop I can't get the car
into
> gear at all.  The car has about 65,000 original miles on it and the clutch
> has never been changed.  Does anyone know what a reasonable life
expectancy
> is for the clutch?  I've never driven another Austin-Healey so I'm having
a
> hard time because I don't know what the clutch should feel life.
>
> Question number 2:  What weight of oil do you recommend for the engine and
> transmission (It only gets started in the summer)?  I've heard different
> answers to this question (straight 30 weight, 10w-30, 10w-40,20w-50 etc.)
> Some people have told me the transmission should take a different grade
than
> the engine and some people have told me I can use the same.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Justin Laborde
> Ypsilanti, Michigan

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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 07:29:11 -0700
Subject: clutch wore out?


> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm new to the Austin Healey list (just joined a couple of days ago).  I
> have a 1961 3000 Mark 1.
>
> The car was restored from about 1975-1980 by my father and my uncle and is
> still in good running condition.  I do however have a problem that
sometimes
> when it is hot outside and I've driven the car a bit the
clutch/transmission
> will start acting up.  Sometimes when I'm at a stop I can't get the car
into
> gear at all.  The car has about 65,000 original miles on it and the clutch
> has never been changed.  Does anyone know what a reasonable life
expectancy
> is for the clutch?  I've never driven another Austin-Healey so I'm having
a
> hard time because I don't know what the clutch should feel life.
>
> Question number 2:  What weight of oil do you recommend for the engine and
> transmission (It only gets started in the summer)?  I've heard different
> answers to this question (straight 30 weight, 10w-30, 10w-40,20w-50 etc.)
> Some people have told me the transmission should take a different grade
than
> the engine and some people have told me I can use the same.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Justin Laborde
> Ypsilanti, Michigan

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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 08:31:53 -0600
Subject: Windshield Wiper Arms

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a 
name of winmail.dat]

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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 11:09:40 -0500
Subject: Racing Screens

Marion S. Brantey, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member

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From michaelwilliams <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon,  6 Jan 2003 14:19:57 -0500
Subject: ACCESSKEY

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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:21:33 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Eat=20Your=20Heart=20Out=A0--=20Next=20week?=

John Stevens
Marquette, MI

We can't get them here on the UP.

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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 12:39:11 -0800
Subject: Donut Derelict Cruise

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:35:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Donut Derelict Cruise


*************
Hello listers,
Does anyone go to the Donut Derelict Cruise on Saturday AMs in the Orange
County, California area?

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 13:50:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Donut Derelict Cruise

Steve Gerow wrote:

> Hello listers,
> Does anyone go to the Donut Derelict Cruise on Saturday AMs in the Orange
> County, California area? It looks huge and I'd like to know if it's
> worthwhile for sports cars or is it just for hot rods?
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 14:59:34 -0800
Subject: regulator


Ronald Davies
67 BJ8 pos ground

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon,  6 Jan 2003 17:12:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Arms

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon,  6 Jan 2003 17:43:55 -0600
Subject: Re:

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon,  6 Jan 2003 19:52:40 -0600
Subject: BN-4 head for sale, sick of moving it around my garage!!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 16:13:07 +1300
Subject: Shock Absorbers

Thanks

Andrew Shrimpton
NZ
BT7

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 22:14:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart =?iso-8859-1?Q?Out=A0=2D=2D?= Next week?

Bill Lawrence

JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:

> But for Krispy Kreme donuts, ah yes!
>
> John Stevens
> Marquette, MI
>
> We can't get them here on the UP.

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 22:33:57 -0800
Subject: Speeding Healey

But then he looked in his rear-view mirror, and there was a Police Car
behind him, blue lights flashing. "I can get away from him with no problem"

thought the man and he floored it some more, and flew down the road at
over 115 mph to escape being stopped. Then he thought, "What the heck
am I doing? I'm too old for this kind of thing" and pulled over to the side

of the road, and waited for the Police car to catch up with him.

The Policeman pulled in behind the his E type and walked up on the
driver's side. "Sir," he said, looking at his watch. "My shift ends in a
few
minutes and today is Friday the 13th. If you can give me a good reason
why you were speeding that I've never heard before, I'll let you go."

The man looked back at the Policeman and said, "Last week my wife
ran off with a Policeman, and I thought you were bringing her back."

The Policeman said, "Have a nice day".

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 02:17:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1

As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
#600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
four bolt hub set up.

Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
but after a while I decided to pull over and
investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and let
off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
the freeway.

After about five minutes of parking lot investigation,
I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
car was towed back home.

A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose at
all - they had actually sheared off completely from
the hub.  

That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel on
the car!!!

It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
passenger seat and my very cool BN1...

Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace the
studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has alot
of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate. 
Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it seems
one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the shear
face was corroded) and it finally broke off... leading
to the failure of the other two studs.

These cars are 50 years old...

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 13:11:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Rear hub stud failure is not that uncommon particularly on 4 stud rear 
axles. However I have not heard of bolts shearing before. Perhaps 
somebody in the past has over tightened them with a hammer gun?

The usual failure is where the nuts come loose and the hub also works 
loose wearing the stud down to a smaller diameter. If not noticed the 
studs can be worn so thin that they break off easily.

The main problem with nuts coming loose is because they do not have the 
locking feature on the outer end.

With steel pressed wheel as used on conventional cars there is enough 
'give' to allow a taper to bight into the steel and stay locked without 
anything extra. However with a solid steel hub this does not seem to be 
the case and tapered nuts can work loose unless they have additional 
locking facilities.

Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an early BN1 this should be 
like a metal lock washer made as an integral part of the nut on the 
outer face.

All the best
>
>As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
>#600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
>four bolt hub set up.
>
>Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
>the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
>at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
>you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
>but after a while I decided to pull over and
>investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and let
>off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
>noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
>the freeway.
>
>After about five minutes of parking lot investigation,
>I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
>hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
>car was towed back home.
>
>A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
>started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
>realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose at
>all - they had actually sheared off completely from
>the hub.
>
>That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
>with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel on
>the car!!!
>
>It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
>passenger seat and my very cool BN1...
>
>Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
>rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace the
>studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has alot
>of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate.
>Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it seems
>one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the shear
>face was corroded) and it finally broke off... leading
>to the failure of the other two studs.
>
>These cars are 50 years old...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>

-- 
John Harper

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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 09:30:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Interesting scary story, early BN1

When doing a restoration, What is the recommendation for replacing or
restoring these bolts?

Should they be replaced with Stainless steel?
Is Stainless stronger than aircraft grade steel?

Does any supplier put together a kit of critical replacement bolts of the
correct grade?

Should anyone even consider reconditioning and zinc plating these critical
bolts?






Sincerely

Rick Neves
BN-2 Just starting restoration




  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Blue One Hundred
  To: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 5:17 AM
  Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1


  Hi -

  As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
  #600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
  four bolt hub set up.

  Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
  the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
  at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
  you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
  but after a while I decided to pull over and
  investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and let
  off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
  noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
  the freeway.

  After about five minutes of parking lot investigation,
  I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
  hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
  car was towed back home.

  A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
  started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
  realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose at
  all - they had actually sheared off completely from
  the hub.

  That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
  with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel on
  the car!!!

  It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
  passenger seat and my very cool BN1...

  Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
  rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace the
  studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has alot
  of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate.
  Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it seems
  one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the shear
  face was corroded) and it finally broke off... leading
  to the failure of the other two studs.

  These cars are 50 years old...

  Cheers,

  Alan

  '53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 10:07:25 EST
Subject: gas (Fuel) gauge fluctuation solution 

Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.

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From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:28:01 -0500
Subject: gas guage fluctuation

Thanx for the suggestion about correcting the erratic movement of the fuel
guage needle.  I too, have a BJ-8 with the same "problem".  I'd never done
anything about it because I never thought of it a very big deal, but your
potential solution is rather easy to try.  As long as I'm working on the gas
guage sending unit, my gas guage needle has never really gone all the way up
to the "F" when fill up the tank.  I might as well see if I can correct that
issue at the same time.

David Z. '67 BJ-8 # 37833

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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 17:12:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out -- 

--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and 
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is 
labor lost; thinking 
without learning is dangerous."

  -  Chinese Proverb
> The experience of eating a Krispy Kreme donut can be closely simulated with a
> tablespoon and a box of powdered sugar.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> 
> JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > But for Krispy Kreme donuts, ah yes!
> >
> > John Stevens
> > Marquette, MI
> >
> > We can't get them here on the UP.

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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 18:47:26 +0000
Subject: non healey, but cool old mini

  -  Chinese Proverb

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:48:48 -0800 
Subject: RE: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?

Keep the dream alive.  I purchased my BN7 back in 81, it ran at first, but
the engine went sour shortly there after.  Time went on, and the car sat.
Now the dream of driving that car will be realized, as the restoration gets
closer to completion.

BN7 back on the road in 2003.

Frank

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent McLean [mailto:kentmclean@mindspring.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:18 PM
To: Michael E. Williams
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Shut off Switch - what is it supposed to do?


"Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams@attbi.com> wrote:
>Permanent, Kent? Gosh, I hope not. You will get that BN2 on the road
someday
>won't you?

Someday...   I bought the beast in '74 (!).  I've been waiting for
the right mix of time, money, space, and an understanding S.O. 
with which to start working on it.  I still have the dream.  And 
isn't it the dream that keeps us all going?

Kent
'56 100 BN2, "Rusty"

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 15:04:48 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Laygear deal. Delete if not intested.

One of our suppliers has made us an offer on BJ8 laygears that may be of
interest BJ8 owners who are contemplating a gearbox rebuild and do not
adhere to the 5 speed conversion idea.

If we can generate enough interest to assemble a minimum order we will
be able to offer new 22B141 laygears for $CDN482.00 ($US313.00) each. 

This laygear will only fit in BJ8 gearboxes and is made by the same
people as the replacements that we have been using for years. The
quality is excellent and we have never encountered any problems. 

When MM last had these they were $US399.95 but they are no longer in
their pricelist. 

Delivery will be around 5 - 6 weeks from our order date. Shipping to US
destinations $US15.00. (Air additional). Canadian destinations
$CDN15.00.

If you are interested please contact me off line before 14 Jan 03. 

For more on this subject see:

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/Hints/gboxhint.htm



Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 14:38:20 -0600
Subject: FW: Windshield Wiper Arms - SECOND TRY FOR INFORMATION

>  -----Original Message-----
> From:         Brashear, Jack, N
> Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 8:32 AM
> To:   'Healey List'
> Subject:      Windshield Wiper Arms
>
> Hi List, I'm just finishing restoration of my BT7 Mk2.  The original wiper
arms are the flat spring type and they never were strong enough to work very
well.  They sort of just waved mysteriously across the glass, and even with
fresh blades, they weren't effective at all.  Any way, do BJ 7-8 arms have the
coil tension springs??  Will they work on a BT7??  What about using arms from
another car??  What do others do to have effective wipers??  I don't expect to
drive the car in the rain but you never know when you might get
caught.....Thanks for you help!!
> Jack

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a 
name of winmail.dat]

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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 20:57:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

>One of the opponents of Heisenberg's theory was Erwin Schrvdinger.  
>He had a cat.
>
>HTH,
>Kent
>'56 100 BN2
>
>  
>
Schrodinger's cat is a different issue. He had a cat ...whether it is 
alive or dead at the moment doesn't matter....you only find out when you 
look at it.

Peter Dzwig

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 12:58:32 -0800 
Subject: RE: Windshield Wiper Arms - SECOND TRY FOR INFORMATION

-

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 13:17:49 -0800 
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE=3A_Eat_Your_Heart_Out=A0--_Next_week=3F_=28S?=

Sounds like fun, haven't been to a Krispy Kreme since my last trip to Las
Vegas (work related) a year ago.  KK makes darn good doughnuts!

Frank
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 7:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Eat Your Heart Out -- Next week? (San Francisco area interest
only)


After doing a story last year on the Doughnut Derelicts who meet every 
Saturday morning from dawn to about 9:30 at a doughnut shop in LA
(attracting 
several 100 interesting cars of all species), and getting information on the

"Sons of Lucas" who do the same thing (though just for British cars) in San 
Luis Obispo, I've been looking around the bay area for a good place where we

could do the same and invite our confreres of other automotive persuasions
to 
join us.

I've got the place on the San Francisco peninsula, halfway between San 
Francisco and San Jose and just across the bay from Milpitas. The location
is 
Krispy Kreme doughnuts at the Rengsdorf exit off Hwy 101 in Mountain View 
(that's north of 237 and south of 92). It shares a parking lot with a Costco

which doesn't open until 10, so lots and lots of room early in the morning.
I 
don't have anything formal in mind. If you feel like a drive early on a 
Saturday morning and want an excuse, drive on over -- anytime between 8:30 
and 10 am. There may be no one else there, or someone else who sees this and

passes the word might be there.

If you think this is an interesting idea, pass it on to your car friends. 
I'll drive over for a couple of weeks and spread the word around and we'll 
see if anything starts to take shape by this spring.
Cheers
Gary Anderson

Pass the word to other friends 

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 16:28:25 EST
Subject: Re: FW: Windshield Wiper Arms - SECOND TRY FOR INFORMATION

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue,  7 Jan 2003 15:40:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healey's

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 17:12:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart =?iso-8859-1?Q?Out=A0=2D=2D?=

Bill

eyera3@attbi.com wrote:

> besides the powdered sugar you would need to add a tablespoon of oil to get 
>the
> complete effect.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
>   -  Chinese Proverb
> > The experience of eating a Krispy Kreme donut can be closely simulated with 
>a
> > tablespoon and a box of powdered sugar.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > JohnbS7257@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > But for Krispy Kreme donuts, ah yes!
> > >
> > > John Stevens
> > > Marquette, MI
> > >
> > > We can't get them here on the UP.

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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 20:16:13 EST
Subject: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:23:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Yes, I always make sure I have the correct nuts on my
hub studs.

The hub I put on my BN1 was a used replacement I
bought from the UK.  I did a visual inspection on it
when I put it on - it was flawless and looked like a
new part.  

Nonetheless, it seems likely that someone did
overtighten the studs at some time in the past, and
possibly sitting on the shelf in the UK over 50 years
a stress crack got corroded.  The person I bought it
from also shot peened the hub, which in a weird way
probably hastened the failure by hardening the surface
of the studs causing further cracking when I started
driving on it.

Thanks for your help,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8


--- John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Alan
> 
> Rear hub stud failure is not that uncommon
> particularly on 4 stud rear 
> axles. However I have not heard of bolts shearing
> before. Perhaps 
> somebody in the past has over tightened them with a
> hammer gun?
> 
> The usual failure is where the nuts come loose and
> the hub also works 
> loose wearing the stud down to a smaller diameter.
> If not noticed the 
> studs can be worn so thin that they break off
> easily.
> 
> The main problem with nuts coming loose is because
> they do not have the 
> locking feature on the outer end.
> 
> With steel pressed wheel as used on conventional
> cars there is enough 
> 'give' to allow a taper to bight into the steel and
> stay locked without 
> anything extra. However with a solid steel hub this
> does not seem to be 
> the case and tapered nuts can work loose unless they
> have additional 
> locking facilities.
> 
> Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an early
> BN1 this should be 
> like a metal lock washer made as an integral part of
> the nut on the 
> outer face.
> 
> All the best
> >
> >As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
> >#600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with
> the
> >four bolt hub set up.
> >
> >Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience
> with
> >the thing last week.  I was driving down the
> freeway
> >at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
> >you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
> >but after a while I decided to pull over and
> >investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and
> let
> >off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty
> loud
> >noise so I knew it was the right decision to get
> off
> >the freeway.
> >
> >After about five minutes of parking lot
> investigation,
> >I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right
> rear
> >hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them. 
> The
> >car was towed back home.
> >
> >A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
> >started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
> >realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose
> at
> >all - they had actually sheared off completely from
> >the hub.
> >
> >That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
> >with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel
> on
> >the car!!!
> >
> >It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
> >passenger seat and my very cool BN1...
> >
> >Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
> >rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace
> the
> >studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has
> alot
> >of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate.
> >Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it
> seems
> >one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the
> shear
> >face was corroded) and it finally broke off...
> leading
> >to the failure of the other two studs.
> >
> >These cars are 50 years old...
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> 
> -- 

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:31:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Interesting scary story, early BN1

first of all, you have a BN2 which uses a five stud
axle which is significantly less prone to failure than
the four stud axle.  Chances are rare you will have a
failure like I did.  Now to answer your questions:

> When doing a restoration, What is the recommendation
> for replacing or
> restoring these bolts?

They are actually "studs."  In general, most people
just leave them on the hub when restoring unless they
show some sort of damage or wearing.  Nonetheless, the
studs are easy to come by and can be replaced at any
basic machine shop.

> 
> Should they be replaced with Stainless steel?
> Is Stainless stronger than aircraft grade steel?

Unfortunately, these studs are specially manufactured
and press fit into your hub.  I am unaware of any
manufacturer that makes stainless steel versions of
the studs.  You cannot use off the shelf bolts because
they will not fit on the hub. 

> 
> Does any supplier put together a kit of critical
> replacement bolts of the
> correct grade?

Most healey suppliers can sell you most of the bolts
for your car of the correct grade.  Moss, VB,
Hemphills, British Car Specialists, SC Parts, AH
Spares, Cape International - they all sell all the
bolts, studs and nuts you could ever need.

> 
> Should anyone even consider reconditioning and zinc
> plating these critical
> bolts?

They're cheap and easy to come by.  I'd just buy new
ones and put those on.  You'll save your self hassle
and you'll have much better peace of mind.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:34:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation

You can correct the range on your fuel guage by
bending the fuel sender's float lever (located in the
gas tank) up or down until the guage rests on full or
empty... as required.  It's an easy fix.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- David Zuiderveld <davzu29@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> Thanx for the suggestion about correcting the
> erratic movement of the fuel
> guage needle.  I too, have a BJ-8 with the same
> "problem".  I'd never done
> anything about it because I never thought of it a
> very big deal, but your
> potential solution is rather easy to try.  As long
> as I'm working on the gas
> guage sending unit, my gas guage needle has never
> really gone all the way up
> to the "F" when fill up the tank.  I might as well
> see if I can correct that
> issue at the same time.
> 
> David Z. '67 BJ-8 # 37833

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 21:05:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

Wiper problem. Unless some component(s) in your wiper system have been
replaced since they operated correctly I suspect that the problem is
that the wiper arms have been installed in the wrong position on the
wheel boxes. 
Before installing the arms watch the movement of the wheel box shafts
when the wipers are turned off. They should park at the limit of their
travel in one direction. Check which way they move when you turn them
back on. This should be the opposite of the direction that they were
rotating in as they came to the park position. If you want to be sure
dab a little correction fluid on the end of the shaft so you can see it
clearly. If the arms are correctly installed they should travel over the
glass about 110 degrees then go back again. 

Rear shroud rivets. A large pair of vice grips can be made to do the
job. Particularly good if you grind a small hollow in one of the jaws
for the head of the rivet. The rear shroud was painted after the rivets
were installed. BUT the bottom lip was originally painted satin black to
make it invisible so you could conceivably install the rivets after
painting the shroud. Good luck installing it without scratching or
cracking the paint though!!

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Meemeb@aol.com
Sent: 7-Jan-03 8:16 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

I have tried to post these questions a couple of times with no success
so 
here goes again.  I have a 1966 BJ8 that has a windshield wiper problem.

When I turn on the wipers they continue wiping beyond the glass area and

sweep down and across the front shroud.  Does anyone have a remedy for
this 
or will I need to look for a replacement wiper motor?
Second question is that I bought rivets from British Car Specialists to
use 
in replacing my rear shroud.  Can anyone recommend a tool I could jerry
rig 
to install these rivets and can I paint the rear shroud before
reassembly 
with the rivets?
Bernie

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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 18:37:49 -0800
Subject: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story, early

> The main problem with nuts coming loose is because they do not have the
> locking feature on the outer end.

> Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an early BN1 this should be
> like a metal lock washer made as an integral part of the nut on the
> outer face.

Okay, I've seen these nuts on my BN1. To be honest, I thought a PO had
welded them on to lengthen them for some unknown reason (I've seen worse on
this car).

How does this "locking feature" work? Is the spring lock washer biting into
the stud?

Brad Weldon
55 BN1

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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 18:57:34 -0800
Subject: Valve adjustment and archives

Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
bsteele2@pacbell.net

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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 14:16:07 +1100 
Subject: RE: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,

Following on from what John Harper said, the A70 from which the diff and
brakes of the early 100's were sourced has plain brass wheel nuts holding
the solid steel wheel directly to the brake drum and the axle hub.


Alex Hope
Australia




-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Weldon 55BN1 [mailto:healey@bradw.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 7 January 2003 6:38 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story, early
BN1)


<bunch of stuff snipped>
> Rear hub stud failure ....

> The main problem with nuts coming loose is because they do not have the
> locking feature on the outer end.

> Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an early BN1 this should be
> like a metal lock washer made as an integral part of the nut on the
> outer face.

Okay, I've seen these nuts on my BN1. To be honest, I thought a PO had
welded them on to lengthen them for some unknown reason (I've seen worse on
this car).

How does this "locking feature" work? Is the spring lock washer biting into
the stud?

Brad Weldon
55 BN1

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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 14:33:25 +1100 
Subject: RE: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Heavens Alan you think you had it hard. I was born in a shoebox and lived so 
far from school that I had to start walking to school even before I got home 
from the previous day. 

Trouble with BN1 wheel nuts is certainly not a new problem. My first 
Austin-Healey back in the early 1970s was a well used BN1 that I continued to 
use in the same vein.

Over a period of two years I must have gone through at least a dozen rear 
bearing carriers or hubs. My memory tells me that originally the stud was 
pressed into the hub and the inside end of the stud was just peened over. New 
studs were just not procurable (we don't appreciate how lucky we are for parts 
these days) but used hubs from the Austin A40 were an exact fit and plentiful.

On three occasions one of the rear wheels decided to part company from the car 
with the resulting chaos.

I should say that one of those times when not only did a couple of studs break 
but the large nut holding the hub on also came adrift with the wheel, hub and 
axle disappearing off into the traffic. Halcyon days indeed and then the cars 
were just 20 years old.

I fixed the problem by welding the studs to the back of the hub and using new 
nyloc nuts.

As they say in the classics "keep your nuts tight".

Regards

Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia

1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1

-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 9:17 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1


Hi -

As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
#600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
four bolt hub set up.

Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
but after a while I decided to pull over and
investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and let
off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
the freeway.

After about five minutes of parking lot investigation,
I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
car was towed back home.

A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose at
all - they had actually sheared off completely from
the hub.  

That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel on
the car!!!

It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
passenger seat and my very cool BN1...

Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace the
studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has alot
of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate. 
Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it seems
one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the shear
face was corroded) and it finally broke off... leading
to the failure of the other two studs.

These cars are 50 years old...

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:40:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Replacing the rear hub studs on a BN1 4 stud rear hub is not as easy as
it may sound. The studs are actually threaded into the hub from the
outside and then "staked " which is like two heavy hits with a cold
chisel, which spreads the end of the stud to stop it unthreading from
the hub. 
It is very difficult to clean off the spread metal of the stud then
unscrew it from the hub without damaging the threads I the hub. I would
be very hesitant to heat the area to help with the removal for fear of
inducing cracking in the hub.

I'm presently going through the same thing with a race car that we are
putting together and I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that it will
be safer to leave well alone and just have the studs and hub crack
tested.

I think the moral of the story is to make sure that the nuts are the
correct locking type and ensure that they are checked regularly for the
correct torque.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 7-Jan-03 5:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Hi -

As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
#600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
four bolt hub set up.

Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
but after a while I decided to pull over and
investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and let
off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
the freeway.

After about five minutes of parking lot investigation,
I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
car was towed back home.

A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose at
all - they had actually sheared off completely from
the hub.  

That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel on
the car!!!

It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
passenger seat and my very cool BN1...

Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace the
studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has alot
of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate. 
Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it seems
one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the shear
face was corroded) and it finally broke off... leading
to the failure of the other two studs.

These cars are 50 years old...

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 20:07:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 carburetor flooding problem

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:12:52 -0600
Subject: Bugeye gold

All was removed from a low mileage CA car that was being transformed into a
hot street machine.

I've never seen such a clean engine... complete with generator, carbs, dist,
fan, wires... looks like you can drop it into a gold level car. (It's
cleaner than a 31,000 MKIII's engine I  picked up this summer...)

The radiator is so clean and shiny, it looks like its been powdercoated...
but its not, just a clean unrestored original.

Pictures available for serious inquiries.

WST

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 22:01:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Interesting scary story, early BN1

What is the correct torque?

Dave Russell
BN2

Michael Salter wrote:
> 

> I think the moral of the story is to make sure that the nuts are the
> correct locking type and ensure that they are checked regularly for the
> correct torque.

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:08:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 carburetor flooding problem

Three things to check -

1) Is your front float full of gas?  If it is full of
gas it won't press hard enough to close the float jet.
 If this is the case, the float needs to be fixed.

2) Is there some crud in the float jet assembly? 
Sometimes if there's a piece of crud in the jet
housing or in the fuel port on the float chamber lid,
the jet won't shut off the fuel flow.

3) Is your fuel pump too strong?  Did you replace the
fuel pump with some sort of high power or high
capacity pump?  If you fuel pump pumps over 3psi into
the line, that can cause overflowing as well.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Tonight I took the fuel bowls apart again made sure
> that the hinge that closes the needle valve was
> within
> spec used the 7/16 drill bit stem as per Steve Byers
> and the manual, made sure the needle was moving
> freely
> in the seat, cleaned the inline filters just in
> case.
> Put everything back together cranked the engine and
> the front carburetor started to flood AGAIN!
> What does this mean? Is the needle valve and/or the
> seat for the front carburetor defective?
> Also the rear carburetor's fuel bowl had about half
> as
> much gasoline as the front carburetor. What does
> this
> mean?
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> Jorge
> BJ8
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up
> now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:19:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Interesting scary story, early BN1

Thank you very much for you advice.  I was aware of
all these issues and made sure that the old stud ends
were removed properly and the new studs put in
properly.  Incidentally, the new studs were not peened
or staked over as you mentioned but actually welded to
the hub on the back.  This is actually more secure
than peening (this is what my machinist told me) and
done in such a way that the weld can be easily ground
off to remove the stud in the future if necessary.

Also, I always make sure I use the correct bolts
torqued at approximately 40-60 ft-lbs to hold on the
spline.

I think it will work well for a while.  If I have more
problems I'll post back to the list with the result!

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> 
> Replacing the rear hub studs on a BN1 4 stud rear
> hub is not as easy as
> it may sound. The studs are actually threaded into
> the hub from the
> outside and then "staked " which is like two heavy
> hits with a cold
> chisel, which spreads the end of the stud to stop it
> unthreading from
> the hub. 
> It is very difficult to clean off the spread metal
> of the stud then
> unscrew it from the hub without damaging the threads
> I the hub. I would
> be very hesitant to heat the area to help with the
> removal for fear of
> inducing cracking in the hub.
> 
> I'm presently going through the same thing with a
> race car that we are
> putting together and I'm rapidly coming to the
> conclusion that it will
> be safer to leave well alone and just have the studs
> and hub crack
> tested.
> 
> I think the moral of the story is to make sure that
> the nuts are the
> correct locking type and ensure that they are
> checked regularly for the
> correct torque.
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: 7-Jan-03 5:17 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1
> 
> Hi -
> 
> As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
> #600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
> four bolt hub set up.
> 
> Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
> the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
> at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
> you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
> but after a while I decided to pull over and
> investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and
> let
> off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
> noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
> the freeway.
> 
> After about five minutes of parking lot
> investigation,
> I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
> hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
> car was towed back home.
> 
> A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
> started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
> realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose
> at
> all - they had actually sheared off completely from
> the hub.  
> 
> That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
> with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel
> on
> the car!!!
> 
> It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
> passenger seat and my very cool BN1...
> 
> Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
> rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace
> the
> studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has
> alot
> of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate. 
> Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it
> seems
> one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the
> shear
> face was corroded) and it finally broke off...
> leading
> to the failure of the other two studs.
> 
> These cars are 50 years old...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:33:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Interesting scary story, early BN1

When I was a kid in the late 60's early 70's living in
the jungles in Northern Thailand, we had to avoid
getting shot by the Communist rebels on my way to
school.  It might not have been all that hard as your
shoebox outback childhood but it certainly was weird. 
I've come to realize that I think I'm one of the few
kids in the world that actually went to a school run
by the CIA - Air America School in Udorn Thailand. 
Very weird to say the least.

I love this list because now I know that A40 hubs fit
my healey.  I probably should get out and buy a stack
of them from the UK... I'm sure there's someone with
an A40 parts specialty somewhere....

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> G'day
> 
> Heavens Alan you think you had it hard. I was born
> in a shoebox and lived so far from school that I had
> to start walking to school even before I got home
> from the previous day. 
> 
> Trouble with BN1 wheel nuts is certainly not a new
> problem. My first Austin-Healey back in the early
> 1970s was a well used BN1 that I continued to use in
> the same vein.
> 
> Over a period of two years I must have gone through
> at least a dozen rear bearing carriers or hubs. My
> memory tells me that originally the stud was pressed
> into the hub and the inside end of the stud was just
> peened over. New studs were just not procurable (we
> don't appreciate how lucky we are for parts these
> days) but used hubs from the Austin A40 were an
> exact fit and plentiful.
> 
> On three occasions one of the rear wheels decided to
> part company from the car with the resulting chaos.
> 
> I should say that one of those times when not only
> did a couple of studs break but the large nut
> holding the hub on also came adrift with the wheel,
> hub and axle disappearing off into the traffic.
> Halcyon days indeed and then the cars were just 20
> years old.
> 
> I fixed the problem by welding the studs to the back
> of the hub and using new nyloc nuts.
> 
> As they say in the classics "keep your nuts tight".
> 
> Regards
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
> 
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Blue One Hundred
> [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 9:17 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Interesting scary story, early BN1
> 
> 
> Hi -
> 
> As some of you know, I have a very early BN1 (about
> #600 I think) with a spiral bevel rear axle with the
> four bolt hub set up.
> 
> Well, I just had a very hair-raising experience with
> the thing last week.  I was driving down the freeway
> at about 70 mph when I heard a slight vibration (as
> you do in a Healey).  At first I mostly ignored it,
> but after a while I decided to pull over and
> investigate.  As I was pulling off the freeway and
> let
> off the gas, the vibration turned into a pretty loud
> noise so I knew it was the right decision to get off
> the freeway.
> 
> After about five minutes of parking lot
> investigation,
> I determined that 3 of the 4 studs on the right rear
> hub had come loose and I couldn't tighten them.  The
> car was towed back home.
> 
> A couple days later I removed the rear tire and
> started to dismantle the spline from the hub when I
> realized that the three "loose" studs weren't loose
> at
> all - they had actually sheared off completely from
> the hub.  
> 
> That means I was driving down the freeway at 70 mph
> with only one good stud holding my right rear wheel
> on
> the car!!!
> 
> It was almost "aufviedazein" for me, my mum in the
> passenger seat and my very cool BN1...
> 
> Anyway, I'd suggest for those of you with four bolt
> rear hubs on your BN1, you probably should replace
> the
> studs if they are worn in any way, if the car has
> alot
> of miles on it, or if you live in a humid climate. 
> Based on my inspection of the sheared studs, it
> seems
> one of the studs had an old shear fracture (the
> shear
> face was corroded) and it finally broke off...
> leading
> to the failure of the other two studs.
> 
> These cars are 50 years old...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alan
> 
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:31:30 -0000
Subject: Subject: body & batch numbers

For comparison, my car was built on 17 July 1957 and has serial number 45055 
with batch and body numbers 3804/4731. It was first registered on 1 August 1957 
in Gloucester - at that time, the new registrations ran from 1 August every 
year in the UK.

One thing that impressed me when rebuilding the car was that various Lucas 
parts (eg coil) were stamped 07/57 - who says that "Just-in-Time" is a new idea?

BTW, hope the restoration goes well!

Regards

Paul

Longbridge BN4

- -----Original Message-----

Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:49:36 -0500
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
Subject: body & batch numbers

Dear Listers :
    I have 2 Longbridge BN4-4's the one I'm restoring has the following 
numbers, serial 45281 batch and body 3960/5524 built 25 July 1957. My 
parts car has an unknown build date, to my knowledge. I believe it is a 
very early BN4-4 ( the defrosters are built like the BN-2 ) with a serial 
number, 30836 and batch and body numbers 3194/665.
    I am some what  new to the list and don't know where these numbers 
fit into the production dates
thanks in advance.......dennis Broughel........BN-4...45281

------------------------------

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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 10:10:16 +0000
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story, 

Yes - this is a much better way of describing them.

On another Email it was said that the same hub (G4-117A) was used on an 
A40. This is generally true but early A40s used an inferior hub with a 
leather oil seal. This should be avoided. However the later G4-117A was 
introduced in November 1948 so there will not be many of the earlier 
ones around.

G4-117A was fitted to later A40 (Devon and Somerset), A70 (Hampshire and 
Hereford) and the A90 Atlantic.

I confirm what others have said, studs are threaded in place and then 
locked with a chisel like 'peen'. It is very difficult to replace these 
studs without causing damage and are be best left alone if in good 
order. If they can be crack tested so much the better.

Just a bit of useless information. On the A70 Pick-Up and Countryman, 
they used a 6 stud hub with brake drums, half shafts and wheels (17") to 
suit. This is a basis for a stronger arrangement which I saw many years 
ago on an early 100.

Half Shafts and hub extensions have to have the extra holes drilled and 
this needs access to the right machining facilities. Six hole brake 
drums can be fitted or the existing ones modified. I say useless 
information because the chance of finding these rare hubs is very slim.

All the best

>My 100 has nuts that someone told me were called 'stiff nuts'.  The last 2
>full threads or so on the nut are intentionally deformed during manufacture
>so that they are tight on the thread of the stud, the nett result being that
>they feel like a Nyloc nut when being fitted.
>
>Following on from what John Harper said, the A70 from which the diff and
>brakes of the early 100's were sourced has plain brass wheel nuts holding
>the solid steel wheel directly to the brake drum and the axle hub.
>
>
>Alex Hope
>Australia
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brad Weldon 55BN1 [mailto:healey@bradw.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, 7 January 2003 6:38 PM
>To: Healey List
>Subject: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story, early
>BN1)
>
>
><bunch of stuff snipped>
>> Rear hub stud failure ....
>
>> The main problem with nuts coming loose is because they do not have the
>> locking feature on the outer end.
>
>> Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an early BN1 this should be
>> like a metal lock washer made as an integral part of the nut on the
>> outer face.
>
>Okay, I've seen these nuts on my BN1. To be honest, I thought a PO had
>welded them on to lengthen them for some unknown reason (I've seen worse on
>this car).
>
>How does this "locking feature" work? Is the spring lock washer biting into
>the stud?
>
>Brad Weldon
>55 BN1
>

-- 
John Harper

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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 07:55:42 EST
Subject: Re: Bugeye gold


> but the
> judges will be scrutinizing dates and other telltale things like the brass 
> carb
> dashpot covers.  Early cars were plain, but later ones were changed by 
> shortening
> the plunger and marking the top with an "O" stamped into it.  There are 
> many
> other telltale signs.  What's to say the generator had not been swapped out 
> in
> the last 40 years?  Gold level is tough and a straight drop in might not 
> help.

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 07:08:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Bugeye gold

Not planning any parade here, and I understand all the criteria necessary to
please the judges. Never the less, there exists out there, someone for whom
this motor trans combo will help tremendously.

As far as it's mechanical condition, a complete description of its history
by a very well known source, along with compression checks, and a leak down
test will determine the price that they'll be sold at.


WST

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike MacLean
To: Wm. Severin Thompson
Cc: spridget list ; Healey list Forum
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: Bugeye gold


I hate to rain on your parade, but condition aside,  the dates would have to
be correct on the radiator, generator, coil, etc. for a Gold level
restoration.  By correct, I mean the month/yr stamped on these parts would
have to be very close to the production date.  The generator and other
ancillary equipment on my 60 Bugeye all are 2/60 and my car was on the
assembly line in the last 4 days of Feb 1960 and the first couple days of
March 60. If the dates on this engine you have are too far off from the
production date of the prospective restoration subject,  the best you could
hope for is a Bronze, maybe Silver, if they were feeling generous. You could
probably get Todd Clarke to stamp a correct engine number plate if you have
your Heritage Certificate for proof, but that will not be enough.  Nice find
even though you can't be sure what condition the engine or trans are in
until you really run them.  They might look great, but they might have been
pulled for a different reason.  I'm not trying to be a jerk, but the judges
will be scrutinizing dates and other telltale things like the brass carb
dashpot covers.  Early cars were plain, but later ones were changed by
shortening the plunger and marking the top with an "O" stamped into it.
There are many other telltale signs.  What's to say the generator had not
been swapped out in the last 40 years?  Gold level is tough and a straight
drop in might not help.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
"Wm. Severin Thompson" wrote:
Anyone out there doing a gold level restoration of a Bugeye? I've come
across a mint, stock, low mileage, complete 948 & smoothcase trans, stock
radiator, and front drum assembly.
All was removed from a low mileage CA car that was being transformed into a
hot street machine.
I've never seen such a clean engine... complete with generator, carbs, dist,
fan, wires... looks like you can drop it into a gold level car. (It's
cleaner than a 31,000 MKIII's engine I  picked up this summer...)
The radiator is so clean and shiny, it looks like its been powdercoated...
but its not, just a clean unrestored original.
Pictures available for serious inquiries.
WST

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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:30:42 EST
Subject: Looking for Bill Wood

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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 07:47:50 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

Alan S. HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)

> Rear shroud rivets. A large pair of vice grips can be made to do the
> job. Particularly good if you grind a small hollow in one of the jaws
> for the head of the rivet. The rear shroud was painted after the rivets
> were installed. BUT the bottom lip was originally painted satin black
> to make it invisible so you could conceivably install the rivets after
> painting the shroud. Good luck installing it without scratching or
> cracking the paint though!!
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:55:11 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 carburetor flooding problem

The rear bowl not flooding would indicate that the pressure is probably not 
excessive if it is able to shut-off completely. (But verifying the pump 
pressure would be a good idea).

That would indicate the front assembly has.
1. A bad float (is there fluid inside the float when you shake it), 
indicating a crack or hole, thereby not having sufficient displacement and 
force to shut-off.
2. The lever arm is still not adjusted correctly to push the shut-off plug 
completely against the orifice seat. The convex side of the curve should rest 
against the plug.
3. The soft tip (neoprene or Buna?) of the plug is damaged, cut  or missing.
4. The plug is hanging up due to deposits on it or the sleeve in which it 
strokes. It should be pristine and easily move with finger pressure.
5. The orifice seating surface is cut or scored and leaks through.

That about all I can think of ....

Best of Luck,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:14:56 EST
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation

Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:30:35 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 carburetor flooding problem

If you didn't spill any fuel out when removing the bowl and it doesn't seem 
full enough, you can make a slight adjustment in the lever so that it doesn't 
push the plug up completely until the float has risen a little higher in the 
bowl. If you make too much adjustment, the float will never completely 
shut-off and spill out the overflow. Too much in the other direction and you 
shut-off too soon and your fuel level may be insufficient at high RPMs (fuel 
usage).

Another thing I thought of in the front carb, is the lever you're adjusting 
is pivoting on a pin. There are three tabs on the lever that encapsulate the 
pin that allow the pivoting motion. This area must be very clean, unscarred 
and the tabs must not be tight around the pin or crooked, the tabs should run 
perfectly parallel with the pin so it rotates freely. If a tab is bent poorly 
or badly it can hang up the entire lever and cause the overflow.

Best Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 06:40:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

FWIW, you can get a rivet squeezing tool from aircraft tools suppliers.
It looks like a large pair of pliers with "cupped" tips to properly (de)form the
rivet.  Usually runs $40-50.  Only suitable for edge riveting, where you
have access to the backside of the sheet metal.


bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************


> That brings  up a question. Aren't these pop rivets and don't you need a
> pop rivet tool to get a decent job?
> 
> Alan S. HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> 
> > Rear shroud rivets. A large pair of vice grips can be made to do the
> > job. Particularly good if you grind a small hollow in one of the jaws
> > for the head of the rivet. The rear shroud was painted after the rivets
> > were installed. BUT the bottom lip was originally painted satin black
> > to make it invisible so you could conceivably install the rivets after
> > painting the shroud. Good luck installing it without scratching or
> > cracking the paint though!!
> >
> > Michael Salter
> > www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 09:37:09 -0600
Subject: Re:Shock Absorbers

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:49:05 -0600
Subject: No Healey content.  Computer Question

If so how do I find it?

Thanks
Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 10:58:39 -0500
Subject: BN4 EARLY 3000 FRAME

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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 11:55:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

The restoration of HBJ8L 25.321 goes on well and now it
is time to fit the fan belt - but which is correct? 

There were 2 sizes: 3/8" and 1/2"

My BJ8 is the seventh built and therefor is a clear
phase I model. I am not sure wheter the 1/2" fan belt
came at the beginning of the MK III production with BJ8
25.315 or later at the introduction of the phase II
models in 1964 at BJ8 26.705.

Who knows? Who has a honest phase I model and can tell
for sure?

Please help as the rest of the car is really totally
original. Watch the pictures of the restoration at

www.gschwend.at

click "privat" and log in (username: austin, password:
healey.


thanks and happy healeying, Martin

_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 14:28:16 -0600
Subject: Computer Problem Fixed (No Healey Content)

Thanks again.  What a List!

Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 16:40:49 EST
Subject: 5-speed tunnel conversion Q & A

When I installed my Smitty's 5-speed I was on the road and had to make do 
with some small pieces of sheet metal pop-riveted into place to cover the 
original side-shifter hole and what was left of the square hole for the 
ashtray receiver (the shifter came up about even with the front of the 
latter.  The tunnel fit but needed replacing.

I ordered a Moss FG cover for a 6-cylinder side shifter (part number 856-430) 
and drilled a 2-1/2" hole on centerline 15-1/2" back from the front molded 
flange.  It is a perfect fit!  This cover is long enough to eliminate the 
need for the short intermediate tunnel section that was unique to the 
4-cylinder cars. It fits generously over the transmission and will allow me 
to have back the useless ashtray.  If you're doing a conversion and need a 
tunnel, get this one as opposed to the tunnel for the center shifter and save 
yourself the work.

Now a question:  I need a carpet kit and wonder if the L & R floor sections 
from a 6-cylinder sideshifter are the same dimensions as those for a 100 
(Moss would not "mix and match" pieces of the two kits!).  Would any kind and 
lucky lister with both a 100 and a 6-cylinder side shift car be able to 
compare the mats and advise me if they are the same or close in dimensions?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 15:22:40 -0700
Subject: Rear hub extension torque question

Can someone please help?

What is the correct torque value for the rear hub extension studs on a
BN2? My charts show anywhere from 24 to 60 ft lb, depending upon the
bolt tensile strength. Can't find anything about torque or tensile
rating of the studs in my shop manuals or in the archives.

Thanks very much for the help,

Dave Russell
BN2

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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:47:00 -0500
Subject: Re: 5-speed tunnel conversion Q & A

I'm not sure but I think that all 4-speed side-shift covers have the same
basic dimensions. I think that I will be getting one of these fiberglass
covers for my BN1 so I'd be interested to know for sure. My car had
previously been converted to a 4-speed and has a nice metal one-piece cover
that I am loathe to cut a hole in. Does the fiberglass cover have the
side-shift hole pre-cut? If so, do you intend to glass over it or cover it
in some other fashion?

--Michael
'55 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 4:40 PM
Subject: 5-speed tunnel conversion Q & A


> You'll recall that when this topic was up a few weeks ago we learned of a
UK
> site showing how to convert a fiberglass center-shnift tunnel to
accomodate a
> Toyota box.  It required a bit of cutting and glassing to eliminate some
of
> the tunnel's height due to the Toyota' tranny's lower pivot point.
>
> When I installed my Smitty's 5-speed I was on the road and had to make do
> with some small pieces of sheet metal pop-riveted into place to cover the
> original side-shifter hole and what was left of the square hole for the
> ashtray receiver (the shifter came up about even with the front of the
> latter.  The tunnel fit but needed replacing.
>
> I ordered a Moss FG cover for a 6-cylinder side shifter (part number
856-430)
> and drilled a 2-1/2" hole on centerline 15-1/2" back from the front molded
> flange.  It is a perfect fit!  This cover is long enough to eliminate the
> need for the short intermediate tunnel section that was unique to the
> 4-cylinder cars. It fits generously over the transmission and will allow
me
> to have back the useless ashtray.  If you're doing a conversion and need a
> tunnel, get this one as opposed to the tunnel for the center shifter and
save
> yourself the work.
>
> Now a question:  I need a carpet kit and wonder if the L & R floor
sections
> from a 6-cylinder sideshifter are the same dimensions as those for a 100
> (Moss would not "mix and match" pieces of the two kits!).  Would any kind
and
> lucky lister with both a 100 and a 6-cylinder side shift car be able to
> compare the mats and advise me if they are the same or close in
dimensions?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 18:29:35 -0500
Subject: BJ8 tach

Need some advice or possibilities. Cant figure out why the tach wont work,
we tried two different ones both 67s. New wiring harness and all was double
checked and hooked up right. White wire loop done correctly , ground is good
and power where its suposed to be.  Anything I might have missed ?   Hate to
sound amaturish about this but it has both of us stumped.

Thanks,
Carroll

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed,  8 Jan 2003 17:24:09 -0600
Subject: Re: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed,  8 Jan 2003 17:45:00 -0600
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,  

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed,  8 Jan 2003 17:52:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 15:57:21 -0800
Subject: Important Announcement

IMPORTANT NOTICE: ALL K-MART AND WALMART STORES WILL BE CLOSED IN IRAQ.


THEY WILL BE REPLACED WITH TARGETS.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

Kirk  Kvam   ;-)

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From "Charlie" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 18:09:31 -0600
Subject: BN1 Water Pump 

A couple of weeks ago I started my car and noticed a noise in the engine
compartment, but before I could pop the bonnet, the noise quit.  This past
weekend I drove the car about 200 miles... the noise has gotten much worse and
I'm sure it's coming from the water pump area.

I checked my shop manual (Motorbooks International) and it didn't help much...
it did give me the location of a lubrication screw (which doesn't look like
mine) and says to lubricate sparingly... how sparingly do I lubricate it and
what type of lubrication do I use?   From my past experiences when a water
pump goes out it leaks, mine doesn't what gives?  I also checked the archives
with no success.

Thanks,

Charlie
'53 BN1 #767

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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 16:28:10 -0800
Subject: Re: BN1 Water Pump 

BrianM



At 06:09 PM 1/8/2003 -0600, Charlie wrote:
>Hello listers,
>
>A couple of weeks ago I started my car and noticed a noise in the engine
>compartment, but before I could pop the bonnet, the noise quit.  This past
>weekend I drove the car about 200 miles... the noise has gotten much worse and
>I'm sure it's coming from the water pump area.
>
>I checked my shop manual (Motorbooks International) and it didn't help much...
>it did give me the location of a lubrication screw (which doesn't look like
>mine) and says to lubricate sparingly... how sparingly do I lubricate it and
>what type of lubrication do I use?   From my past experiences when a water
>pump goes out it leaks, mine doesn't what gives?  I also checked the archives
>with no success.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>'53 BN1 #767

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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 19:32:29 EST
Subject: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets

The wiper motor is not currently in my car since I am in the process of a 
restoration and I am only now trying to solve a problem that developed years 
ago before I started the restoration.  One day the wipers were working fine 
and then while out cruising it began to rain.  I turned on the wipers, they 
worked fine for about 30 seconds and then continued their travel beyond the 
glass area and were swiping back and forth on the front shroud in the same 
110 degree pattern as they had previously covered on the glass.  I hope the 
solution is what was suggested by Greg Bankin that the screws that hold the 
clamp on the cable were loose allowing the gears to slip on the drive cable.  
When trying to solve a problem I prefer to try the easiest suggested 
solutions first.  Since the wiper motor and cable is not in the car can 
anyone advise me on how to set up a bench test of the wiper and cable?  Which 
wires to run to which battery posts etc?

Regarding the shroud rivets they are indeed solid with flat heads and may be 
aluminum since I was able to cut one in half with wire cutters without much 
force.  After cutting one in half I then placed it in a pair of vice grips to 
try to compress it but was not able to do it.  Just not enough leverage.  
Sure hate to spend $40 to $50 for an aircraft rivet squeezing tool that I may 
only use this once.  The more I think about the difficult time I will have 
installing these things, I think I better plan on gettting the shroud back on 
the car before painting to avoid damaging new paint!  Thanks for all the 
feedback.
Bernie

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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 16:41:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Head Leak (only the best)

I have started to realize that the love of spending is also part of
the hobby...for some.

Francois


Subject: Re: Head Leak

I agree that many times it may not be necessary.  However, after 
spending
$2-3K or more on an engine rebuilt is it worthwhile to skimp on a 
$150 set
of head studs?  Not in my opinion.  Leave that sort of thing for the
Chevy's, and treat a Healey engine like the rest of the car...only 
the best.
Make it work right the first time and you will never question your 
decision
to spend the extra money.

Cheers,
Chris


__________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 19:56:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of alan@andysnet.net
Sent: 8-Jan-03 8:48 AM
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Cc: Meemeb@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets Tool

That brings  up a question. Aren't these pop rivets and don't you need a
pop rivet tool to get a decent job?

Alan S. HBJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)

> Rear shroud rivets. A large pair of vice grips can be made to do the
> job. Particularly good if you grind a small hollow in one of the jaws
> for the head of the rivet. The rear shroud was painted after the
rivets
> were installed. BUT the bottom lip was originally painted satin black
> to make it invisible so you could conceivably install the rivets after
> painting the shroud. Good luck installing it without scratching or
> cracking the paint though!!
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:00:46 -0500
Subject: RE: gas guage fluctuation

However a word of caution. It is also very easy to break the very fine
wires attached to those electromagnets thereby rendering the gauge
useless.

Been there, done that!!

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rebeltown@aol.com
Sent: 8-Jan-03 9:15 AM
To: international_investor@yahoo.com; davzu29@earthlink.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation

The bending of the float arm may work as long as the sender unit in the
car 
is the correct one.  I found that the one in my car was not and bending
the 
arm for the float would never give me the full motion I needed to
register a 
full and empty tank.  

Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:10:00 -0500
Subject: RE: BN1 Water Pump 

You might want to check that the crankshaft pulley is tight. That can
make some 'orrible noises and it is in the very same area.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charlie
Sent: 8-Jan-03 7:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN1 Water Pump 

Hello listers,

A couple of weeks ago I started my car and noticed a noise in the engine
compartment, but before I could pop the bonnet, the noise quit.  This
past
weekend I drove the car about 200 miles... the noise has gotten much
worse and
I'm sure it's coming from the water pump area.

I checked my shop manual (Motorbooks International) and it didn't help
much...
it did give me the location of a lubrication screw (which doesn't look
like
mine) and says to lubricate sparingly... how sparingly do I lubricate it
and
what type of lubrication do I use?   From my past experiences when a
water
pump goes out it leaks, mine doesn't what gives?  I also checked the
archives
with no success.

Thanks,

Charlie
'53 BN1 #767

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:11:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

That means your BJ8 had the older 3/8" fan belt,
pully, and harmonic balancer set up.  If you ask me,
it's a better setup than the 1/2" anyway.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Martin Gschwend <gschwend@justice.com> wrote:
> Hello Steve, Alex, Skip and others!
> 
> The restoration of HBJ8L 25.321 goes on well and now
> it
> is time to fit the fan belt - but which is correct? 
> 
> There were 2 sizes: 3/8" and 1/2"
> 
> My BJ8 is the seventh built and therefor is a clear
> phase I model. I am not sure wheter the 1/2" fan
> belt
> came at the beginning of the MK III production with
> BJ8
> 25.315 or later at the introduction of the phase II
> models in 1964 at BJ8 26.705.
> 
> Who knows? Who has a honest phase I model and can
> tell
> for sure?
> 
> Please help as the rest of the car is really totally
> original. Watch the pictures of the restoration at
> 
> www.gschwend.at
> 
> click "privat" and log in (username: austin,
> password:
> healey.
> 
> 
> thanks and happy healeying, Martin

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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:13:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

a) I was surprised not to see anybody from the right side of the
Atlantic (that's when you look at it with the Noth pole up of course
;-)) stand up and speak. There, actually, the convertible models are
BOTH valued above the roadsters. If I remember well, the October 1995
issue of Classic and Sportscars values the BJ7 at +15% and the BJ8 at
+20% over the 3000 roadsters. I am not sure that 100 Six was lower
but I think it was (-10%?)

b) The valuations are supposed to be derived from observed market
prices but they are in fact used by buyers (and sellers?) to
determine what they are willing to pay for the cars. Talk about a
vicious circle...

Francois

__________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:17:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN1 Water Pump 

Is the noise a high pitched squeal or is it a whine? 
If it's a squeal, it may simply indicate that your fan
belt is starting to deteriorate.  The fan belts used
on 100-4s are notorious for squeeking/squealing when
they get old.  Try some belt dressing or candle wax on
your pulley to see if that gets rid of the noise.  If
it does, you should replace the fan belt.  

Also, check to see if your pulley is wobbling any.  If
there is some play then that means the water pump
should be replaced.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Charlie <chadstew@texas.net> wrote:
> Hello listers,
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I started my car and noticed a
> noise in the engine
> compartment, but before I could pop the bonnet, the
> noise quit.  This past
> weekend I drove the car about 200 miles... the noise
> has gotten much worse and
> I'm sure it's coming from the water pump area.
> 
> I checked my shop manual (Motorbooks International)
> and it didn't help much...
> it did give me the location of a lubrication screw
> (which doesn't look like
> mine) and says to lubricate sparingly... how
> sparingly do I lubricate it and
> what type of lubrication do I use?   From my past
> experiences when a water
> pump goes out it leaks, mine doesn't what gives?  I
> also checked the archives
> with no success.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Charlie
> '53 BN1 #767

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:20:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,  

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> why not just replace the 4 bolt rear with a 5bolt
> 3000 differential.  you automatically get at least a
> 3.9 ratio, larger brakes, 5 blot hubs and a rear end
> assembly that is almost bullet proof.  there should
> be enough of them around for no more than $150-250
> John Harper wrote:
>  > 
>  > Alex
>  > 
>  > Yes - this is a much better way of describing
> them.
>  > 
>  > On another Email it was said that the same hub
> (G4-117A) was used on an
>  > A40. This is generally true but early A40s used
> an inferior hub with a
>  > leather oil seal. This should be avoided. However
> the later G4-117A was
>  > introduced in November 1948 so there will not be
> many of the earlier
>  > ones around.
>  > 
>  > G4-117A was fitted to later A40 (Devon and
> Somerset), A70 (Hampshire and
>  > Hereford) and the A90 Atlantic.
>  > 
>  > I confirm what others have said, studs are
> threaded in place and then
>  > locked with a chisel like 'peen'. It is very
> difficult to replace these
>  > studs without causing damage and are be best left
> alone if in good
>  > order. If they can be crack tested so much the
> better.
>  > 
>  > Just a bit of useless information. On the A70
> Pick-Up and Countryman,
>  > they used a 6 stud hub with brake drums, half
> shafts and wheels (17") to
>  > suit. This is a basis for a stronger arrangement
> which I saw many years
>  > ago on an early 100.
>  > 
>  > Half Shafts and hub extensions have to have the
> extra holes drilled and
>  > this needs access to the right machining
> facilities. Six hole brake
>  > drums can be fitted or the existing ones
> modified. I say useless
>  > information because the chance of finding these
> rare hubs is very slim.
>  > 
>  > All the best
>  > 
>  > >My 100 has nuts that someone told me were called
> 'stiff nuts'.  The last 2
>  > >full threads or so on the nut are intentionally
> deformed during manufacture
>  > >so that they are tight on the thread of the
> stud, the nett result being that
>  > >they feel like a Nyloc nut when being fitted.
>  > >
>  > >Following on from what John Harper said, the A70
> from which the diff and
>  > >brakes of the early 100's were sourced has plain
> brass wheel nuts holding
>  > >the solid steel wheel directly to the brake drum
> and the axle hub.
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >Alex Hope
>  > >Australia
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >
>  > >-----Original Message-----
>  > >From: Brad Weldon 55BN1
> [mailto:healey@bradw.com]
>  > >Sent: Tuesday, 7 January 2003 6:38 PM
>  > >To: Healey List
>  > >Subject: locking feature of nuts (Was Re:
> Interesting scary story, early
>  > >BN1)
>  > >
>  > >
>  > ><bunch of stuff snipped>
>  > >> Rear hub stud failure ....
>  > >
>  > >> The main problem with nuts coming loose is
> because they do not have the
>  > >> locking feature on the outer end.
>  > >
>  > >> Did your nuts have locking facilities? On an
> early BN1 this should be
>  > >> like a metal lock washer made as an integral
> part of the nut on the
>  > >> outer face.
>  > >
>  > >Okay, I've seen these nuts on my BN1. To be
> honest, I thought a PO had
>  > >welded them on to lengthen them for some unknown
> reason (I've seen worse on
>  > >this car).
>  > >
>  > >How does this "locking feature" work? Is the
> spring lock washer biting into
>  > >the stud?
>  > >
>  > >Brad Weldon
>  > >55 BN1
>  > >
>  > 
>  > --
>  > John Harper

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 17:35:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 tach

A few things to check:

1) are you looping the wire around the little plastic
mount with the fitted metal stable that sends the
induction signal to the tach?  If you don't have these
little pieces (the plastic piece and the metal staple)
the tach won't work.

2) You might want to try reversing the wind of the
loop.  The induction sensor will only work in one
direction and if the thing is wound backwards, the
tach may not work.  An easy way to fix this is to
simply switch the white wire connections on both sides
of the loop.  What I mean is cut the white wire from
the ignition switch to the tach and cut the white wire
from the tach to the motor and then switch the
connections.  If you do this, make sure you use a very
good connection set up (don't use crimp connectors). 
I'd suggest using soldered bullet connectors.   This
white wire gets alot of current going through it and
it needs to have a good connection all around,
otherwise it may corrode and go bad.

Hope that helps,

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> Need some advice or possibilities. Cant figure out
> why the tach wont work,
> we tried two different ones both 67s. New wiring
> harness and all was double
> checked and hooked up right. White wire loop done
> correctly , ground is good
> and power where its suposed to be.  Anything I might
> have missed ?   Hate to
> sound amaturish about this but it has both of us
> stumped.
> 
> Thanks,
> Carroll

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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 01:58:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey Values -- Longish

OK, a comment from the 'right' side of the Atlantic (as opposed to the 
'wrong' side?).

I have not researched values on this side of the water, but would 
suspect that climate might have something to do with it, viz:

1. We need creature comforts, given our notoriously bad weather. We need 
to be able to install the soft top quickly, ditto wind-up side screens. 
This makes the late cars more desirable here.
2. Older cars that have spent their lives in the UK will be relatively 
more rusted than the later models, and this will be reflected in the 
average market price (unless we are talking about a fully restored early 
car).

-- 
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:16:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Head Leak (only the best)

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 19:14:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets

> Sure hate to spend $40 to $50 for an aircraft rivet squeezing tool that I may 
> only use this once.

Not a problem!   Just buy it and we'll all borrow it ;)


bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************

> Thanks to those that have responded to these questions.  Your responses lead 
> me to provide some clarification to my questions.
> 
> The wiper motor is not currently in my car since I am in the process of a 
> restoration and I am only now trying to solve a problem that developed years 
> ago before I started the restoration.  One day the wipers were working fine 
> and then while out cruising it began to rain.  I turned on the wipers, they 
> worked fine for about 30 seconds and then continued their travel beyond the 
> glass area and were swiping back and forth on the front shroud in the same 
> 110 degree pattern as they had previously covered on the glass.  I hope the 
> solution is what was suggested by Greg Bankin that the screws that hold the 
> clamp on the cable were loose allowing the gears to slip on the drive cable.  
> When trying to solve a problem I prefer to try the easiest suggested 
> solutions first.  Since the wiper motor and cable is not in the car can 
> anyone advise me on how to set up a bench test of the wiper and cable?  Which 
> wires to run to which battery posts etc?
> 
> Regarding the shroud rivets they are indeed solid with flat heads and may be 
> aluminum since I was able to cut one in half with wire cutters without much 
> force.  After cutting one in half I then placed it in a pair of vice grips to 
> try to compress it but was not able to do it.  Just not enough leverage.  
> Sure hate to spend $40 to $50 for an aircraft rivet squeezing tool that I may 
> only use this once.  The more I think about the difficult time I will have 
> installing these things, I think I better plan on gettting the shroud back on 
> the car before painting to avoid damaging new paint!  Thanks for all the 
> feedback.
> Bernie

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From "Michael E. Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 22:22:36 -0500
Subject: Re: 5-speed tunnel conversion Q & A

Did you also purchase the "extension panel" (Moss 807-115) or were you able
to make do with the BN1 type? Mine appears to be some sort of kludged up job
and I will be in need of one anyway. I'm curious if it is fiberglass as well
since the Moss catalog gives no indication that the gearbox cover is
fiberglass.

--Michael
'55 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 4:40 PM
Subject: 5-speed tunnel conversion Q & A


> You'll recall that when this topic was up a few weeks ago we learned of a
UK
> site showing how to convert a fiberglass center-shnift tunnel to
accomodate a
> Toyota box.  It required a bit of cutting and glassing to eliminate some
of
> the tunnel's height due to the Toyota' tranny's lower pivot point.
>
> When I installed my Smitty's 5-speed I was on the road and had to make do
> with some small pieces of sheet metal pop-riveted into place to cover the
> original side-shifter hole and what was left of the square hole for the
> ashtray receiver (the shifter came up about even with the front of the
> latter.  The tunnel fit but needed replacing.
>
> I ordered a Moss FG cover for a 6-cylinder side shifter (part number
856-430)
> and drilled a 2-1/2" hole on centerline 15-1/2" back from the front molded
> flange.  It is a perfect fit!  This cover is long enough to eliminate the
> need for the short intermediate tunnel section that was unique to the
> 4-cylinder cars. It fits generously over the transmission and will allow
me
> to have back the useless ashtray.  If you're doing a conversion and need a
> tunnel, get this one as opposed to the tunnel for the center shifter and
save
> yourself the work.
>
> Now a question:  I need a carpet kit and wonder if the L & R floor
sections
> from a 6-cylinder sideshifter are the same dimensions as those for a 100
> (Moss would not "mix and match" pieces of the two kits!).  Would any kind
and
> lucky lister with both a 100 and a 6-cylinder side shift car be able to
> compare the mats and advise me if they are the same or close in
dimensions?

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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 22:47:32 -0500
Subject: BJ8  tach take two

Carroll

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 20:24:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Head Leak (only the best)

I've had my BJ8 long enough to know that cutting
corners never pays in the long run.  The result?  My
BJ8 is now a very reliable car and rarely, if ever,
breaks down.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
  
--- Chris Masucci <sooch@houston.rr.com> wrote:
> Maybe it's just a love of doing the job right?  I
> realize that sort of thing
> is hard to come by these days.
>  
>  I'm a little amused that you think that $150 is too
> much to spend on a new
> set of head studs.  EVERY good engine builder will
> replace head studs, main
> cap studs, and connecting rod bolts on any engine
> rebuild.  It is cheap
> insurance regardless of what you may think.  I'll be
> laughing if your motor
> grenades.  Your's might, mine won't.  Get it?
> Chris
>  
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "francois wildi" <fwildi@yahoo.com>
> > To: <sooch@houston.rr.com>
> > Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 6:41 PM
> > Subject: Re: Head Leak (only the best)
> > 
> > 
> > > There are quite a few people out there making a
> living of selling you
> > > "only the best" (for big $$). And even better
> than the best (for
> > > bigger $$). And they must be applauding what you
> say.
> > > I am always a little amused by this way of
> cherishing a car that,
> > > during its lifetime as a mean of transportation,
> was re-engineered
> > > every year to become cheaper and cheaper...
> > >
> > > I have started to realize that the love of
> spending is also part of
> > > the hobby...for some.
> > >
> > > Francois
> > >
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: Head Leak
> > >
> > > I agree that many times it may not be necessary.
>  However, after
> > > spending
> > > $2-3K or more on an engine rebuilt is it
> worthwhile to skimp on a
> > > $150 set
> > > of head studs?  Not in my opinion.  Leave that
> sort of thing for the
> > > Chevy's, and treat a Healey engine like the rest
> of the car...only
> > > the best.
> > > Make it work right the first time and you will
> never question your
> > > decision
> > > to spend the extra money.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Chris

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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 22:32:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Shock Absorbers

Believe Peter!  I was just at his establishment and watch the entire 
process.  Anybody could do it...........IF ......and ONLY IF......you 
have the right tools.  Then you need to know how to seal the shaft 
correctly.  Peter just did two of my Bugeye dampers and they work 
great!....at least in the garage.  Only wish I could road test them; 
alas 'tis winter in Wisconsin.  Before he worked on them they were rock 
solid and had mismatched parts.

If someone rebuilds them correctly downunder have them do it, otherwise 
pay the shipping and send them to Peter; don't want to muck them up.  No 
interest etc., etc...........just  a very happy Sprite guy :-) !

Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500

Peter C. wrote:

><you wrote>
>Can anyone tell me if the rear wishbone arm on the shock absorber is
>removable. It looks to be on a splined shaft. Can I remove this with a
>gear puller?
>Thanks
>Andrew Shrimpton
>NZ
>BT7
>======
>Andrew,
>       Yes, the arm can be removed with aid of a puller, but I caution against 
>it. The arm is attached on the splined shaft, but also the piston and 
>rocker assembly inside the shock is on splines. From my considerable 
>experience with these shocks, do not remove the splined arm, AND, be sure 
>you keep the other arm with the original shaft as the pinch bolt hole is 
>drilled AFTER the 2 arm halves are bolted together.
>       If you are attempting to service the seals (somewhat futile, I might 
>add), 
>press the arm and shaft out together from the pinch bolt side. Be careful 
>you support the shock body, keep the lid on, as there is risk of crushing 
>the alloy body. Remove the lid and service the pistons., and when 
>re-assembling, be sure to recrimp the locking ring into the indent on the 
>shaft between the splines. Also, take note of the arm set position.
>       If you need more detail, or other options, contact me off list.
>       Peter C.

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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 01:52:49 EST
Subject: Want to Buy

I look forward to seeing detailed descriptions and e-mail pictures along with 
requested price.  Someone, PLEASE save me from e-bay!! ha ha

Thank you in advance.

Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed,  8 Jan 2003 20:43:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out,...Part II

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 05:20:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Want to Buy

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
67' BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: <GSFuqua1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 1:52 AM
Subject: Want to Buy


> Almost afraid of what I may get back BUT I am looking for a 67 3000 Mk III
> Phase II BJ8 to buy.  Ideally it would be completely and professionally
> restored, rebuilt and reliable.  Color is open but would prefer leather
> interior but again open for the right car.  Willing to pay a fair price
but
> NO desire to fly all over the country looking at cars that are supposedly
> "Perfect" only to find them cobbled up.  Been there, done that.
>
> I look forward to seeing detailed descriptions and e-mail pictures along
with
> requested price.  Someone, PLEASE save me from e-bay!! ha ha
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Gary Fuqua
> Branson, Missouri

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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 12:21:41 +0100
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation

Electromagnet? What piece of equipment are you describing now? My sender
unit is a simple wire wound resistor with an arm sliding along. Is there an
electromagnetic sender type as well?
The wild movement of the gas(petrol) gauge needle as discussed here shortly
ago is caused by a design error: the current passes through (part of) the
resistor, into the sliding arm and is then supposed to jump from the float
shaft onto the metal housing of the sending unit at the point where the arm
passes through the housing. BUT: the materials of the housing and the float
arm are not the same, and consequently you get corrosion in the hole where
the float arm pivots. And you can't do anything about that! That's why, when
I met this problem, I soldered a very thin flexible wire to the float arm
which I attach to the metal housing when fitting the sender in the tank. No
fluctuating needle any more. (And I have to add: corrosion advice used to be
one of the items I earned my living with when I was still working).

Regards
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>; <international_investor@yahoo.com>;
<davzu29@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 2:00 AM
Subject: RE: gas guage fluctuation


> There are actually range adjustment nuts on the back of the gauge. By
> loosening the tiny hex nut and sliding the electromagnet attached to it
> inside the gauge you can adjust where the "empty" and "full" positions
> are.
>
> However a word of caution. It is also very easy to break the very fine
> wires attached to those electromagnets thereby rendering the gauge
> useless.
>
> Been there, done that!!
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 06:54:39 EST
Subject: Virus caution

Best--Michael

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:02:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out,...Part II

BTW, I hope your girlfriend doesn't find out that your "perfect day" is one
without her!

Jim
BN7 etc

----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
Cc: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>; "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: Eat Your Heart Out,...Part II


> It was 55 degree F today in NE Wisconsin.  Quite unseasonable here at
> 45 degree N Latitude.  I spent the day working on my Healey in my
> garage in the country, (an old body shop I rent). I did not even have
> to fire up the three heaters I normally have to ignite.  I spenty most
> of the day working on my Healey, attaching the body panels, cleaning
> the engine components and getting them ready to bolt on my newly
> machined and rebult engine which will be ready friday.  But, I
> couldn't work on my Healey all day and let the beautiful weather go to
> waste.  So, I put the battery charger on my 427SC Shelby Cobra replica
> (400+ HP small block) and went for a little spin.  I drove along Lake
> Michigan, about 4 miles from here.  It was a great day for a drive and
> the roads by the lake were absolutely free of other traffic (including
> cops).  It was a special treat to cheat old man winter and get out for
> a top down drive.  God did it feel good!!!  However, it did get a bid
> cool when I hit 100mph a few times. I can't wait for summer when I can
> drive my Healey down the same roads.  The Healey is much roomier for
> more extended drives than the Cobra.  In the Healey at least I can
> carry a bag of clothes.  The Cobra barely has room for a toothbrush
> for overnighters.  To top off a perfect day, when I got home (my
> girlfriend is in Florida for a week) I tapped a small keg of Becks and
> began to surf the net for Healey stuff.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.

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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 07:17:26 -0700
Subject: Subject: Re: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets

With all the chatter concerning rivets, and my impending installation of my
shroud (next few weeks I suspect) I thought I would pipe in..  I was
planning to use vise grips (as Micheal recommended)..  For kicks I will look
at the aircraft rivet tool and let you all know..  We have a company in town
(Pacific Wings) that restores WWII aircraft as their business.... heck of a
nice bunch of guys also.. wonderfull work.. always fun to see a P51, P42,
P38, corsair, or any other WWII figther or bomber (and yes even a spitfire)
flying around almost any nice spring-fall day....

Jim Sailer
66 BJ8

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:14:47 -0500
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation

Jim


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: gas guage fluctuation


> Hi Michael,
>
> Electromagnet? What piece of equipment are you describing now? My sender
> unit is a simple wire wound resistor with an arm sliding along. Is there
an
> electromagnetic sender type as well?
> The wild movement of the gas(petrol) gauge needle as discussed here
shortly
> ago is caused by a design error: the current passes through (part of) the
> resistor, into the sliding arm and is then supposed to jump from the float
> shaft onto the metal housing of the sending unit at the point where the
arm
> passes through the housing. BUT: the materials of the housing and the
float
> arm are not the same, and consequently you get corrosion in the hole where
> the float arm pivots. And you can't do anything about that! That's why,
when
> I met this problem, I soldered a very thin flexible wire to the float arm
> which I attach to the metal housing when fitting the sender in the tank.
No
> fluctuating needle any more. (And I have to add: corrosion advice used to
be
> one of the items I earned my living with when I was still working).
>
> Regards
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
> To: <Rebeltown@aol.com>; <international_investor@yahoo.com>;
> <davzu29@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 2:00 AM
> Subject: RE: gas guage fluctuation
>
>
> > There are actually range adjustment nuts on the back of the gauge. By
> > loosening the tiny hex nut and sliding the electromagnet attached to it
> > inside the gauge you can adjust where the "empty" and "full" positions
> > are.
> >
> > However a word of caution. It is also very easy to break the very fine
> > wires attached to those electromagnets thereby rendering the gauge
> > useless.
> >
> > Been there, done that!!
> >
> > Michael Salter

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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 07:24:03 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Water Pump 

Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{)  '54 100  '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
Subject: RE: BN1 Water Pump


> Hi Charlie,
>
> You might want to check that the crankshaft pulley is tight. That can
> make some 'orrible noises and it is in the very same area.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]

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From Wayne <w-elliott at shaw.ca>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 06:35:15 -0800
Subject: bodywork

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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:48:04 EST
Subject: Control head assembly

Bill Percival  59 BN4 

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 09:50:18 -0500
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,  

No financial interest.

Keith Pennell

> why not just replace the 4 bolt rear with a 5bolt 3000 differential.  you
automatically get at least a 3.9 ratio, larger brakes, 5 blot hubs and a
rear end assembly that is almost bullet proof.  there should be enough of
them around for no more than $150-250

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 11:03:28 -0500
Subject: RE: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,  

I'm into that type of thing. Unsprung weight is a big penalty :-)

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 9-Jan-03 9:50 AM
To: Jerry Wall; John@jharper.demon.co.uk; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,
ear ly BN1)

Bob Bowie of this list has several rears for sale at under $100.
Probably
10 or so of them and of almost all ratio - doubt there is a 3.5.  Rears
are
located in Richmond, VA.  Contact him at deemi@juno.com

No financial interest.

Keith Pennell

> why not just replace the 4 bolt rear with a 5bolt 3000 differential.
you
automatically get at least a 3.9 ratio, larger brakes, 5 blot hubs and a
rear end assembly that is almost bullet proof.  there should be enough
of
them around for no more than $150-250

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 11:25:32 EST
Subject: Re: Control head assembly

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 11:57:46 -0500
Subject: RE: Control head assembly

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/1G6261.jpg


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ah59bn4@aol.com
Sent: 9-Jan-03 9:48 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Control head assembly

The control head assembly in my non adjustable steering system wobbles
when 
installed.  I can't find any reference to this area in any restoration
guides 
or the workshop manual.  In the Moss catalog there is shown a "Sleeve, 
rubber, stator tube" that looks like it might be used to solve this
problem 
(item # 52, page 124 of October catalog).  There is not one on mine.  It
is 
not available from Moss.  
What should I do to solve this situation?  Seems to me fit and material
would 
be critical  to avoid binding when turning the steering wheel.   Also
how far 
down the tube from the steering wheel end would it be put?     

Bill Percival  59 BN4 

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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 11:13:20 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Trans Tunnel

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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 09:56:20 -0800
Subject: 100-4 exhaust mounts

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 13:31:49 EST
Subject: Re: Virus caution


> The name of the .exe file would be helpful to determine what virus is
> being spread - then other listers (one of which that spread this virus) 
> that
> have this problem can go to http://securityresponse.symantec.com/ to remove
> it. Unfortunately, you must be in the person's address book or have
> previously received an email from the "infected" lister ;-(
> 
> 

The laste one I got was from "international_investor"--Alan is a frequent 
contributor to our list--with the file title being "2001.exe" and no 
subject-matter.  I also recieved another one yesterday from another lister 
whose name escapes me and when I went to the "details" it said that the 
sender was Steve Byers.

Whatever--just keep your ears peeled....

Best--Michael 

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:04:04 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Trans Tunnel

The armrest has two tabs on either side toward the rear seat and one tab in 
the front at the shift console (or just the inverse). A screw goes through 
the tab into the tunnel itself to hold in place. 

If professionally trimmed (correctly) the carpet has snaps to snap to the 
tunnel to allow removal for this very reason. However, in the BJ8 you must 
remove the gear shift console; both the horizontal and vertical parts to 
eventually remove tunnel. The gear shift section is screwed to the switch 
section by two screws and separates at trim line above speaker / cover. Gear 
shift section has a couple screws on tabs behind vertical rise and one or two 
near armrest, all of them screw into tunnel. Switch section (vertical) has 
screws up into dashboard.

Tunnel flange is screwed to floor with about 10 screws which you see after 
lifting carpet.

Some people glue carpet down, but with care can be lifted and then reglued.

Other listers can correct my tab location inaccuracy.

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?=  <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 14:53:38 -0500
Subject: Of interest to BN6-BN7 owners

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=1876641840&rd=1


Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits

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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 15:01:21 EST
Subject: Re: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 16:36:38 -0400
Subject: Clutch and Brake MC and Drive Shaft Questions 

The clutch mc is the same in 100-6s and 3000's. That master cylinder is also
used for non-servo disc brake 3000's. The brake master cylinder in 100-6's
is different. It is much more expensive than the other master cylinder. I
had a chance to get a couple of the clutch mc's for a very good price so I
did.

I'm now thinking that the same master cylinder can be used for the clutch
and disc brakes because both are self- adjusting but would not be
appropriate for drum brakes because they aren't self-adjusting. Am I right
and do I now have one surplus master cylinder?

My second question is about the threaded dust cap that screws onto the front
section (sleeve yoke? yoke sleeve?) of the drive shaft. Mine had come
unscrewed at some point  and is now worn, out of round and unusable. I
haven't seen it listed in any parts catalogues. Anybody know where I can buy
one or does anybody happen to have an extra lying around?

Cheers

Rick Swain
59 BN4 

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:08:22 -0500
Subject: More undocumented features

Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:22:36 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features


> Here is one for all you detail nuts.
> 
> Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 
> 

Looks like the hood release spring on my BN1

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:23:26 EST
Subject: Re: Virus caution

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:40:24 -0500
Subject: RE: Clutch and Brake MC and Drive Shaft Questions 

Wrong attitude young man, entirely wrong attitude.

What you have is a SPARE clutch master cylinder. 

The brake master cylinder for your car has a 3/4" bore which displaces
43.6% more fluid than the 5/8" clutch master cylinder.

If you use it the brake pedal will go down 43.6% further than it would
with the correct cylinder. Being in as it is pretty tough to get a "good
pedal" on a 100/6 at the best of times I would recommend the correct
cylinder.

We have them (integral tank type) for $CDN142 ($US92.30)

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick Swain
Sent: 9-Jan-03 3:37 PM
To: healeys
Subject: Clutch and Brake MC and Drive Shaft Questions 

I have a late BN4 100-6. I have to replace both my clutch and brake
master
cylinders. I think I know the answer to my question but I'll go ahead
anyway.

The clutch mc is the same in 100-6s and 3000's. That master cylinder is
also
used for non-servo disc brake 3000's. The brake master cylinder in
100-6's
is different. It is much more expensive than the other master cylinder.
I
had a chance to get a couple of the clutch mc's for a very good price so
I
did.

I'm now thinking that the same master cylinder can be used for the
clutch
and disc brakes because both are self- adjusting but would not be
appropriate for drum brakes because they aren't self-adjusting. Am I
right
and do I now have one surplus master cylinder?

My second question is about the threaded dust cap that screws onto the
front
section (sleeve yoke? yoke sleeve?) of the drive shaft. Mine had come
unscrewed at some point  and is now worn, out of round and unusable. I
haven't seen it listed in any parts catalogues. Anybody know where I can
buy
one or does anybody happen to have an extra lying around?

Cheers

Rick Swain
59 BN4 

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 16:47:29 -0500
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 9-Jan-03 4:08 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: More undocumented features

Here is one for all you detail nuts.

Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg



Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 17:36:16 -0500
Subject: spring picture

Ok, I think I got it now, its the spring that holds the seat adjustment
lever.

David Z.

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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 18:12:00 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu,  9 Jan 2003 17:30:47 -0600
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 18:38:09 -0500
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

I have revised the picture to include a key for scale.

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg

And I have thought of a prize. A miniature model of AHS3903. Donated by
Precision Sportscar.

There is, however, a skill testing question.

You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
When you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
section of the parts index.

The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.

First entry is the winner.


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 18:53:16 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

       Price 

       60BT7

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 16:57:27 -0700
Subject: Re: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

Bill Lawrence

Jerry Wall wrote:

> wouldn't it make more sense to check your pulleys rather than what is on 
>someone else's healey ?
> Martin Gschwend wrote:
>  >
>  > Hello Steve, Alex, Skip and others!
>  >
>  > The restoration of HBJ8L 25.321 goes on well and now it
>  > is time to fit the fan belt - but which is correct?
>  >
>  > There were 2 sizes: 3/8" and 1/2"
>  >
>  > My BJ8 is the seventh built and therefor is a clear
>  > phase I model. I am not sure wheter the 1/2" fan belt
>  > came at the beginning of the MK III production with BJ8
>  > 25.315 or later at the introduction of the phase II
>  > models in 1964 at BJ8 26.705.
>  >
>  > Who knows? Who has a honest phase I model and can tell
>  > for sure?
>  >
>  > Please help as the rest of the car is really totally
>  > original. Watch the pictures of the restoration at
>  >
>  > www.gschwend.at
>  >
>  > click "privat" and log in (username: austin, password:
>  > healey.
>  >
>  >
>  > thanks and happy healeying, Martin

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 17:05:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor and Rear Shroud Rivets

Bill Lawrence

Meemeb@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to those that have responded to these questions.  Your responses lead
> me to provide some clarification to my questions.
>
> The wiper motor is not currently in my car since I am in the process of a
> restoration and I am only now trying to solve a problem that developed years
> ago before I started the restoration.  One day the wipers were working fine
> and then while out cruising it began to rain.  I turned on the wipers, they
> worked fine for about 30 seconds and then continued their travel beyond the
> glass area and were swiping back and forth on the front shroud in the same
> 110 degree pattern as they had previously covered on the glass.  I hope the
> solution is what was suggested by Greg Bankin that the screws that hold the
> clamp on the cable were loose allowing the gears to slip on the drive cable.
> When trying to solve a problem I prefer to try the easiest suggested
> solutions first.  Since the wiper motor and cable is not in the car can
> anyone advise me on how to set up a bench test of the wiper and cable?  Which
> wires to run to which battery posts etc?
>
> Regarding the shroud rivets they are indeed solid with flat heads and may be
> aluminum since I was able to cut one in half with wire cutters without much
> force.  After cutting one in half I then placed it in a pair of vice grips to
> try to compress it but was not able to do it.  Just not enough leverage.
> Sure hate to spend $40 to $50 for an aircraft rivet squeezing tool that I may
> only use this once.  The more I think about the difficult time I will have
> installing these things, I think I better plan on gettting the shroud back on
> the car before painting to avoid damaging new paint!  Thanks for all the
> feedback.
> Bernie

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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 19:08:41 -0500 
Subject: Healey sighting

Bill Moyer, BJ7, Chimera

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 19:16:15 -0500
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7

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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 19:59:51 -0500
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 20:06:46 -0500
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

We have had a couple of people with "sort of" answers.

To be fair to all your answer must contain.

1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?
2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the spring attach to?
3. The purpose of the spring?
4. The answer to the skill testing question.

Here again is the contest question:

Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg

Here is the skill testing question.

You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
when you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
section of the parts index.

The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.

First entry is the winner.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 17:16:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Trans Tunnel

It's very easy to remove the tunnel on a healey.

There should only be two screws holding the armrest on
the car - they are located on the back end of the
armrest - one on each side on rearwad facing lower
corner on top of the axle tunnel - right next to the
two rear seats.  Once those two screws are removed you
should be able to lift the armrest straight out,
although you should be careful not to damage your
upholstry on the rear seats or the centre console when
you are pulling it out.  


Once that's done, you can remove the five screws and
two bolts that hold the centre console to the tunnel. 
there are four machine screws under the dash, one
screw at the rear end of the console, and two bolts
behind the radio speaker on top of the tunnel.

Once you've removed the centre console, remove the
gear lever knob and nut.  You then need to remove the
eight screws, four on each side of the transmission
tunnel when it meets the floor.  Once that's done, you
can lift the tunnel out.  It may take a little prying
at first because the tunnel seals may need a little
coaxing.

Hope that helps & good luck

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 

--- Phil Leslie <phil@lesliecompanies.com> wrote:
> I need to get to my BJ8's transmission and overdrive
> unit from above and I
> can't figure out how to get the tunnel cover off. I
> can't even get the
> armrest off!! I know there must be a screw(s) under
> the carpet somewhere but
> I don't want to tear anything up looking for them.
> The previous owner had
> put a nice new interior in the car and I'd like it
> to stay that way. This
> looks like a really stupid question as I type it but
> I'll risk asking it
> anyway.

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 17:20:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper Arms

You may already have your answer but here goes:  Just did some measuring -
the BT7 has 10" arms, and 9" blades - the BJ8 has 10 1/2" arms, and 10"
blades.  The attatchment method is also different, hence you can't use the
BT7 blades on the BJ7/8 arms, and the complete BJ7/8 set-up is too long -
the blades will hit the frame.

Whoever suggested Rain-X to improve things had a good point - definitely
worth a try.

I haven't tried, but it may be possible to add a bit of tension to the flat
springs of the BT7 arms.  When I restored my BT7, I installed new
cut-to-length rubber into the original rainbow blades and popped them back
onto the car.  They seem to work fine, and believe me, we get rain up here!

The condition of the glass may be contributing as well.  If your restoration
included a new windscreen, you may have already achieved an improvement.

Only other thing I can suggest is to do what we sometimes have to do - drive
'very quickly between the raindrops'!

Hope this is helpful in some way.

Cheers,

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 6:31 AM
Subject: Windshield Wiper Arms


Hi List, I'm just finishing restoration of my BT7 Mk2.  The original wiper
arms are the flat spring type and they never were strong enough to work very
well.  They sort of just waved mysteriously across the glass, and even with
fresh blades, they weren't effective at all.  Any way, do BJ 7-8 arms have
the
coil tension springs??  Will they work on a BT7??  What about using arms
from
another car??  What do others do to have effective wipers??  I don't expect
to
drive the car in the rain but you never know when you might get
caught.....Thanks for you help!!
Jack

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had
a name of winmail.dat]

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 17:20:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100-4 exhaust mounts

Don't alter the mounts on a 100-4 if you can help it. 
The original mounts work very well on the 100 and if
the set up is correct like original, you will not have
any problems.

The mounting nuts should be tack welded from behind in
the frame and if I recall, they can be reached through
the small access holes in the frame under the nuts. 
This should be an easy job for a metal shop welder,
and likely very cheap to fix as well.  Buy new nuts
and have the re tacked to the frame.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Has anyone come up with an innovative way of fixing
> the stationary mounting
> nuts on the frame ounce they have come loose and are
> absent  ? Has anyone
> altered the position of the mounts with success? Any
> hows and whys would be
> most helpful 
> Still cheerful ,Jonathan Quandt

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 20:28:46 -0500
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

Keith Pennell

> Here is one for all you detail nuts.
> 
> Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg
> 
> 
> Michael Salter

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 17:36:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

That, I believe, is a clutch pedal return spring for a
six cylinder Healey.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

P.S. does this make me a Healey Geek?

--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> Here is one for all you detail nuts.
> 
> Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg
> 
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 17:45:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

OK, here goes.


> 1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?

This should fit all 3000's and most 100-6's

> 2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the
> spring attach to?

The hook end fixes to the pedal hole and the circle
end fixes to the pedal box via a bolt.

> 3. The purpose of the spring?

To return the clutch to closed position after being
depressed.

> 4. The answer to the skill testing question.

13H76 and 13H760

I think I'm right.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 19:43:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Control head assembly

Thanks,

Greg Lemon
54 BN1

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>

> The stator tube should be supported with a little springee thingee like
> this
>
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/1G6261.jpg

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 18:14:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: fan belt for early BJ8 (phase I): 3/8" or 1/2"   ??

You're right... I wasn't paying attention.  The title
of this email should be 3/16" and 1/4", not 3/8" and
1/2".  Chalk it up to dyslexia.

Thanks for the correction.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
> Only the four cylinder cars had 1/2" belts.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> 
> Jerry Wall wrote:
> 
> > wouldn't it make more sense to check your pulleys
> rather than what is on someone else's healey ?
> > Martin Gschwend wrote:
> >  >
> >  > Hello Steve, Alex, Skip and others!
> >  >
> >  > The restoration of HBJ8L 25.321 goes on well
> and now it
> >  > is time to fit the fan belt - but which is
> correct?
> >  >
> >  > There were 2 sizes: 3/8" and 1/2"
> >  >
> >  > My BJ8 is the seventh built and therefor is a
> clear
> >  > phase I model. I am not sure wheter the 1/2"
> fan belt
> >  > came at the beginning of the MK III production
> with BJ8
> >  > 25.315 or later at the introduction of the
> phase II
> >  > models in 1964 at BJ8 26.705.
> >  >
> >  > Who knows? Who has a honest phase I model and
> can tell
> >  > for sure?
> >  >
> >  > Please help as the rest of the car is really
> totally
> >  > original. Watch the pictures of the restoration
> at
> >  >
> >  > www.gschwend.at
> >  >
> >  > click "privat" and log in (username: austin,
> password:
> >  > healey.
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > thanks and happy healeying, Martin

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 19:33:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Control head assembly

>  do they separate so the can be fit on the tube,

> (NO)

> or do
> the have to slide on from the steering box end (meaning tube has to come out
> all the way)?

> (YES)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Lemon
> 54 BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
>
> > The stator tube should be supported with a little springee thingee like
> > this
> >
> > http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/1G6261.jpg

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu,  9 Jan 2003 21:50:30 -0600
Subject: looking for a 3000 bare block

Thanks,
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI. (20 degrees today!!!)

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From "justbrits2" <justbrits2 at attbi.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:31:12 -0600
Subject: Re: looking for a 3000 bare block

<<Also, we are willing to drive  anywhere in the Midwest to
pickup this block.>>

I know where there is a long motor about 300 miles or so south of Milwaukee.

Next question??

      Ed

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:03:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: looking for a 3000 bare block

Alan

--- dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> I'm posting this for a buddy of mine who is in
> Milwaukee and looking for a 3000 
> bare block for his 1960 3000.  His name is Karl and
> between us we have a 100-6 
> block in great shape.  If anybody would be willing
> to swap plus some cash or 
> work out some sort of trade I'm all ears. 
> Otherwise, he is willing to outright 
> purchase a block.  Also, we are willing to drive 
> anywhere in the Midwest to 
> pickup this block. We had a good line on a block for
> $100 from this British car 
> guy, but he is super hard to get ahold of and
> really, really strange.  He has 
> made promises, but I doubt that after my 100 phone
> calls to him for the block 
> and other parts that anything will ever materialize.
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI. (20 degrees today!!!)

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From Awgertoo <Awgertoo at aol.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 23:30:37 +1100
Subject: A very  humour game

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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 2003 22:45:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Control head assembly

I was going to say almost the same thing but you beat me to it.

However I would add a word of caution regarding Norman Nock's suggestion 
to use electrical tape. My experience is that this does not stay 
'sticky' for long and could work its way down into the gears or bearings 
of the steering box. The original rubber sleeves used below the Springee 
thing should also be avoided because they rot and usually end up "in the 
works" causing erratic tight spots when steering. Something I am sure 
you will agree is something to avoid.

All the best


>The stator tube should be supported with a little springee thingee like
>this
>
>http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/1G6261.jpg
>
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Ah59bn4@aol.com
>Sent: 9-Jan-03 9:48 AM
>To: Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Control head assembly
>
>The control head assembly in my non adjustable steering system wobbles
>when
>installed.  I can't find any reference to this area in any restoration
>guides
>or the workshop manual.  In the Moss catalog there is shown a "Sleeve,
>rubber, stator tube" that looks like it might be used to solve this
>problem
>(item # 52, page 124 of October catalog).  There is not one on mine.  It
>is
>not available from Moss.
>What should I do to solve this situation?  Seems to me fit and material
>would
>be critical  to avoid binding when turning the steering wheel.   Also
>how far
>down the tube from the steering wheel end would it be put?
>
>Bill Percival  59 BN4
>

-- 
John Harper

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From Awgertoo <Awgertoo at aol.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 08:00:13 -0600
Subject: Windows 98%

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 09:36:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Windows 98%

Awgertoo wrote:

<absolutely nothing>

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 11:16:15 EST
Subject: Re: Control head assembly

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 11:22:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Windows 98%

Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA


----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Awgertoo" <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: Windows 98%


> Michael, I am receiving a lot emails from you, off list, with nothing in
them.
> Are they the result of a worm in mailbox? High tech sometimes sounds
stupid
> doesn't it? A worm in the mailbox????
>
> Awgertoo wrote:
>
> <absolutely nothing>

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 15:21:48 -0500
Subject: FW: More undocumented features

No correct answers yet!!!

Somebody must know this one.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 9-Jan-03 6:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

Here again is the contest question:

Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg

Your entry must include 

1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?
2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the spring attach to? 3.
The purpose of the spring? 4. The answer to the skill testing question.

There is, however, a skill testing question.

Here is the skill testing question

You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
When you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
section of the parts index.

And I have thought of a prize. A miniature model of AHS3903 donated by
Precision Sportscar. Here it is with the spring.

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Mini100S.jpg


The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 20:51:26 +0000
Subject: Re: FW: More undocumented features


> Only 2 more days left in the "Name That Part" contest (see below). 
> 
> No correct answers yet!!!
> 
> Somebody must know this one.
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 9-Jan-03 6:38 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: More undocumented features
> 
> Here again is the contest question:
> 
> Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg
> 
> Your entry must include 
> 
> 1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?
> 2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the spring attach to? 3.
> The purpose of the spring? 4. The answer to the skill testing question.
> 
> There is, however, a skill testing question.
> 
> Here is the skill testing question
> 
> You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
> When you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
> section of the parts index.
> 
> And I have thought of a prize. A miniature model of AHS3903 donated by
> Precision Sportscar. Here it is with the spring.
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Mini100S.jpg
> 
> 
> The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
> Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.
> 
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Justin Laborde" <spartan0199@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 15:55:39 EST
Subject: Re: Windows 98%

Best to all--Michael Oritt 

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 17:27:29 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: More undocumented features



Here it is with the spring.


I know that I have seen that spring before.  Do I have to have the two
parts to the question in the same email or will you give me credit for
having answered part B correctly?

What is the overall length of the spring again please?

Best-- Michael

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 16:49:44 -0800
Subject: Re: More undocumented features


bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************


> Only 2 more days left in the "Name That Part" contest (see below). 
> 
> No correct answers yet!!!
> 
> Somebody must know this one.
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: 9-Jan-03 6:38 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: More undocumented features
> 
> Here again is the contest question:
> 
> Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg
> 
> Your entry must include 
> 
> 1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?
> 2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the spring attach to? 3.
> The purpose of the spring? 4. The answer to the skill testing question.
> 
> There is, however, a skill testing question.
> 
> Here is the skill testing question
> 
> You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
> When you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
> section of the parts index.
> 
> And I have thought of a prize. A miniature model of AHS3903 donated by
> Precision Sportscar. Here it is with the spring.
> 
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Mini100S.jpg
> 
> 
> The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
> Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.
> 
> 
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 20:00:31 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

<< http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg >>

Looks to me like a hood release return spring from a longbridge 100 Six.


Rick
San Diego

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 20:06:44 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

<< << http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg >> >>

That was wrong...

It's the spring from the top bows of a BJ7-8

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 20:10:12 -0500
Subject: FW: More undocumented features

No correct answers yet!!!

Somebody must know this one.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: 9-Jan-03 6:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: More undocumented features

Here again is the contest question:

Where does this spring fit on a Healey. 

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg

Your entry must include 

1. Which model(s) of Healey the spring fits?
2. Which two parts of the car that the ends of the spring attach to? 3.
The purpose of the spring? 4. The answer to the skill testing question.

There is, however, a skill testing question.

Here is the skill testing question

You have to go to our site (below) and tell me what part number you get
When you do an enquiry on the number 573 in the 6 cylinder Healey
section of the parts index.

And I have thought of a prize. A miniature model of AHS3903 donated by
Precision Sportscar. Here it is with the spring.

http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Mini100S.jpg


The usual draconian contest rules apply and entries close at noon on
Sunday 12 Jan 03 Eastern Time.


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 21:56:04 -0500
Subject: TEST - no content

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 22:36:52 -0500
Subject: Hub stud needed

I am in need of one hub to wheel stud for a front steel wheel hub assembly.
The identifying marks on the head are      MOWOG   and    APN
It measures 7/16 x 1.5 x 20 tpi and is conutersunk head.

Contact me off list if you have one with good threads available.

TIA
Keith Pennell

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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 22:49:07 EST
Subject: BN1 Engine/Transmission Weight?

Thanks.

Steve

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From SMickel950 <SMickel950 at aol.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2003 22:00:46 -0600
Subject: Re:spice girls' vocal concert

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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 02:52:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Steering Wheel Restoration

Has anyone had an original steering wheel restored? Does anyone have any 
recommendations on a reputable place to have this accomplished? What is the 
cost range? Thanks.

John - BJ7



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:25:49 -0500
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

Steve
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Michael Salter
  To: 'Steve Byers'
  Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 8:10 PM
  Subject: RE: More undocumented features


  OK a little hint.



  This spring does not fit all models of Healeys and I'm pretty sure it was
not fitted to all versions of the model that it would fit and Steve, it is not
a torsion spring.



  Only 40 hours to go.





  Michael Salter

  www.precisionsportscar.com

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 05:33:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: More undocumented features


--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/10/03 4:53:25 PM,
> bspidell@pacbell.net writes:
> 
> <<
> http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Sprg.jpg
> >>
> 
> Looks to me like a hood release return spring from a
> longbridge 100 Six.

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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 09:00:09 -0800
Subject: Re: More undocumented features

> I know I'll get beat up for saying this, but why not
> send your answers directly back to the
> originators------this thread is getting boring.

I have found out that "Re: More undocumented features" means "delete first" in
some strange language called Aboriginal Healey.

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 07:23:41 -0800
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Restoration

A friend convinced me that it could be restored so I called Mota-Lita in
England and described the wheel to them. They told me it was made by a
gentlemen down the street who just retired but they could refinish it.
However it would take at least three months. I believe the estimate was a
reasonalbe $300. Because of the three month wait I decided to try it myself.

In two weeks I had a beautiful new steering wheel. If you've ever varnished
anything, all the same principles apply except that it is much more
difficult because of all of the curves.  I bought a cheap adjustable flag
pole mount then screwed a quarter inch by 4 in by 4 in board to it. Then I
mounted the wheel to the board. Attaching that to a folding workbench in the
middle of the garage I could mount the wheel in the different angles needed
to strip, sand, stain x2 , polyurethane and finish.

Seven coats later it is  a head turner and all original. There is something
about the grain in 35 year old wood you can't beat. They don't make-um like
they used to :-)
It just takes patience in between coats (and light sanding).
Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth. Enjoy.
Ron
67 BJ8

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 11:13:17 -0500
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Restoration

I have only a little, unsuccessful, experience in restoring the original
steering wheels for Healeys so there may be others on the list that have
had different experiences.

I dug out all the loose material, made moulds from latex rubber then
repaired the wheels with the material that they use for filling in the
finger holes in bowling balls. 

The finished result looked fabulous for about one year, after which,
cracks reappeared at the places where the new material joined the old. 

I have asked several people with more knowledge on this subject than I
and the general consensus seems to be that the material originally used
in the manufacturing of the wheels continues to shrink over time. The
result is the cracks so common on the originals.

BTW I recently cut up that original wheel and used the hub and a wheel
that I bought at a garage sale to make a woodrim for our new Targa car.
Take note though, it does not have a centre that will accommodate a turn
signal switch.


http://members.rogers.com/magicare/images/Wrswheel.jpg


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Kuzman
Sent: 11-Jan-03 5:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Steering Wheel Restoration

Greetings List!

Has anyone had an original steering wheel restored? Does anyone have any
recommendations on a reputable place to have this accomplished? What is
the cost range? Thanks.

John - BJ7

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 13:24:46 -0600
Subject: bugete hardtops

Any of you UK listers know a source for MKI Sprite (bugeye, frogeye) fastback
hardtops... either original or reproduction? Aftermarket, or works style.

I see a fair amount of race cars running in various European Sprite race
series to suggest someone must be reproducing them.

WST

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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 14:30:23 -0600
Subject: Michael Salter's Challenge (long)

There have been rumblings of discontent over the problem advanced by Michael,
the identification of a spring of which two only were found on a particular
model of Healey.

Well this has been a real mind burner! By way of example, my better half
Margaret, wanted to respond to her mother's comment that she was becoming
forgetful. Well my mother-in-law is 91 going on 92, so Margaret who is into word
puzzles suggested to her mother that her mother could sharpen up her mind by
doing word puzzles - Margaret's challenge to her mother was to beat the 103
words Margaret made up out of the word watermelons. The first night we were in
Winnipeg when this challenge was advanced my mom-in-law made up 47 words.

So you say what has this got to do with Michael Salter's spring! Lots!  First
you get to think, piece by piece through your Healey from front to rear bumper,
from the lower most part to the top of the hood - visualizing all as you go!
Some on this List may have worked on all models, my experience is much more
narrow, I've helped three friends here with their Healeys, all to varying
degrees - most time was on a BN2, then a BT7, and least on a BN6 - as to my BJ8
I have only done the engine and transmission, radiator shroud, and tow hooks.
I've really enjoyed this question posed by Michael, I have settled on what I
think it is based on my experience but I believe I'm wrong - but I've enjoyed
the challenge because I've learned more about my BJ8.

I discussed this at noon today with my buddy Gerry (BT7), left him to deal with
this after we batted some ideas back and forth, he won't get many furniture
built this afternoon but he was laughing like hell about the challenge, he was
sure he'd find the correct answer.  So remember you're in Michael's debt, your
"little grey cells" will get a workout and you will feel great and you learn
something new about your Healey!

Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan (-23C)
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4

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From AHCUSA at go.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 10:52:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Searching for Fred Hunter

Reid Trummel

Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org/magazine.shtml
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/www.healey.org/
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/ahcusa
___________________________________________________
GO.com Mail                                    
Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com

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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 21:49:04 +0100
Subject: BJ8 Phase 2 chassis dimensions

I'm a bit disappointed. Just bought the (what everybody tells me) latest issue
of the Workshop Manual
(BMC part number AKD1179H) only to discover that in section R 'Chassis Frame'
only one chassis is shown: that of the BN4, BN6, BT7 and BJ7. My problem is
that I have a BJ8 phase 2 and that I am drawing up a rotisserie which I intend
to connect to the front and rear bumber supports extensions of the chassis
beams.

1) Can anyone tell me whether those dimensions on the BJ8 are identical to
what's shown on the chassis alignment diagram in the Manual referred to
above?

2) Where do I find a chassis alignment diagram for the BJ8 phase 2?

3) Is anyone aware of an even more recent/complete version of the Manual,
issued after AKD1179H?

Different subject: all three master cylinders which I received with my car
have been exposed to a damp atmosphere over 11 years. That doesn't sound too
bad, but the previous owner had taken all internals out before putting them
aside. Not only the exterior is corroded but also the bore is very rough, to
state it mildly. Is it worth trying to find a specialised company able to hone
the cylinders, or would the bores be pitted so heavily that they're
unrepairable? Hope someone has experience with this.

Thanks in advance, as usual.

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:29:02 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 Phase 2 chassis dimensions

As far as I am aware there never a Factory (or other) W S Manual
published with a diagram of the BJ8 frame. 

The only changes are to the rear suspension areas. They include the dip
to allow more axle travel and larger rear shock mounts. As far as I
remember everything else is the same so you should be able to use the
given dimensions for your rotisserie.

I would think that your master cylinders would be unusable unless they
were resleeved. Aluminium cylinders should not be honed in any was as
this removes the very thin anodized antiwear coating on the inside of
the cylinder. 

We have found that it is usually as expensive to have them rebuilt as it
is to buy new, however other listers may have different opinions on
that.


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin
Sent: 11-Jan-03 3:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 Phase 2 chassis dimensions

Hi,

I'm a bit disappointed. Just bought the (what everybody tells me) latest
issue
of the Workshop Manual
(BMC part number AKD1179H) only to discover that in section R 'Chassis
Frame'
only one chassis is shown: that of the BN4, BN6, BT7 and BJ7. My problem
is
that I have a BJ8 phase 2 and that I am drawing up a rotisserie which I
intend
to connect to the front and rear bumber supports extensions of the
chassis
beams.

1) Can anyone tell me whether those dimensions on the BJ8 are identical
to
what's shown on the chassis alignment diagram in the Manual referred to
above?

2) Where do I find a chassis alignment diagram for the BJ8 phase 2?

3) Is anyone aware of an even more recent/complete version of the
Manual,
issued after AKD1179H?

Different subject: all three master cylinders which I received with my
car
have been exposed to a damp atmosphere over 11 years. That doesn't sound
too
bad, but the previous owner had taken all internals out before putting
them
aside. Not only the exterior is corroded but also the bore is very
rough, to
state it mildly. Is it worth trying to find a specialised company able
to hone
the cylinders, or would the bores be pitted so heavily that they're
unrepairable? Hope someone has experience with this.

Thanks in advance, as usual.

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 17:25:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Restoration

I found them in Hemmings and they did the Bugeye wheel and the MGA wheel. ,Not 
cheap around $150-$200 per wheel, but I have the original wheels and not a 
repro.

They did a fantastic job. It's been 3 years for the MGA wheel and it still 
looks like new. No financial interest, etc.  Just a satisfied customer.

Regards,
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500



John Kuzman wrote:

>Greetings List!
>
>Has anyone had an original steering wheel restored? Does anyone have any 
>recommendations on a reputable place to have this accomplished? What is the 
>cost range? Thanks.
>
>John - BJ7
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 17:36:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Number of Healeys

I think that the "age" that a car reaches before it starts to became a 
"classic" is getting greater each year.  In other words The difference in years 
between my 47 ford and a 97 Ford is 50 years.  But as the 97 Ford becomes 50 
years of age, I don't think the attraction will be there to the then 
"collectors" to want to acquire the 50 year old Ford.

I don't know if that is very clear or not.  I am a firm believer that the rarer 
an object or car is, the more it becomes a "collectible".  

My wife is a great fan of Shirley Temple and remembers when she was a child she 
ate cereal from a Shirley Temple bowl that came free in a box of cereal.  That 
was in 1945.  In 1995 I paid $50 for a Shirley Temple bowl in an Antique Store 
and the same bowl today is valued (by Shirley Temple collectors) at $75.

The most valuable "collector" car on the market today is probably a Tucker 
because of the few numbers that were actually produced.  In Healey terms, the 
100 MM is probably the most valuable. (given all other factors such as 
condition) are equal.

My guess is that if you took the total number of Austin Healeys produced and 
subtracted 1 percent per year you would have a very close count of the number 
remaining.  Simply stated, out of the 355 BN7 two seat triple carburetors that 
rolled off the assembly line up to 1962, probably there are only 60 % left 
which would make the number about 152.

Checking with Bill Bolton, the BN7 registre guy, I find that there are 138 
registered BN7's.  That is about what I expected.

Any ideas on this?

Don
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 16:40:43 -0800
Subject: California Interest Only (or former Nor Cal owners)

I'm asking your help to trace the past ownership/history of my 1957 100-Six
BN4, which I purchased in 1999 from Grover Bowman in Arcata, CA (just north of
Eureka).

Car # BN4L-0-49069
Engine # 26D-RU-H 49069
Body # 4092-6403
Build date December 10, 1957
Primrose Yellow (repainted Healey Blue prior to 1988)
Black interior
California license BXG 214 from 1963 to 1988

The car was orginally shipped to the BMC dealer in San Francisco in December
1957 and first sold in 1958.

The CA DMV could only furnish me with two prior owners:
1. Grover Bowman, owned 11/06/88 to 9/16/99 (the man I bought it from)
2. Robert R. Wills, owned 8/25/88 to 11/06/88 (Mr. Bowman said Wills was a
used Healey dealer/mechanic in the Eureka area)

>From 1963 to 1988, it had California license  BXG 214

The car was origially Primrose Yellow.  When Mr. Bowman bought it in 1988, it
was a Healey Blue color.

If anyone furnish me with any information/history on this Austin Healey,
please email me off list.
Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six  Erika the Red

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 18:52:01 -0600
Subject: Clutch slave diameter?

Thanks.
Chris
BJ8

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From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 21:13:36 EST
Subject: Re: bugete hardtops

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 00:04:19 -0600
Subject: What kind of gasket goes on the Girling brake/clutch

I had to slightly bend my master cylinder to reservoir lines to get the large
compression nuts on the bottom of the reservoir can to finally go on.  I
snugged them up very tight.

When I began adding my fluid, it began dripping out the bottom of the can
within a few minutes.  I checked the tightness of all fittings again and they
are tight. I drained the reservoir and removed it and visually inspected the
two bottom fittings where they exit the bottom of the can, and they look OK

I noticed that I have COPPER gaskets on the outside bottom of the can.  Is
this correct?

Brian Collins

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 00:14:52 -0600
Subject: Source for front OE style muffler Clamps

Moss did not have the front however.  only the rears which I got.

The front pipes are 1 7/8" going into the muffler.  Can anyone suggest a
source for these clamps.  I have tried to go direct to the US distributor, and
they have now directed me to 6 or 7 Dallas accounts; none of which had them.

Sure would be nice to call someone, give them a credit card number and know
they are coming in the mail.

Brian Collins

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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 01:52:13 EST
Subject: Healey Book on e-Bay

Found this on e-Bay at a very inexpensive price.  These usually sell for 
between $70.00 and $90.00.  This one looks to be in good condition.  I have 
one so thought I would pass this on to the list.

1959 Austin Healey Car Guide Book 
<A 
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14026&item=2153037527";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14026&item=2153037527</A>

Good luck,
Richard

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 08:48:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Clutch slave diameter?

All 6 cylinder slave cyls and 7/8" dia.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Masucci
Sent: 11-Jan-03 7:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Clutch slave diameter?

Anyone know the piston diameter for a BJ8 clutch slave cylinder?

Thanks.
Chris
BJ8

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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:01:03 +0000
Subject: New feature on UK 100 Register

However a considerable amount of new information has been collected 
during our Austin Healey celebration year 2002. We have received major 
input from Australia and Belgium. Also much has been collected by 
attending Lake Tahoe and Thruxton. Indeed the full amount of information 
that was collected at Lake Tahoe has not been processed so if you were 
there with your 100 and you cannot find you chassis number listed it 
maybe that we have it but it does not show as yet.

We have also received regular input from our WEB site and our more 
normal sources too many to list here.

I would like to thank all those who have sent us information and ask you 
please to continue the good work.

If you do not see your chassis number listed then please let us know. 
The more complete our record is of surviving cars the more useful it is 
to others.

The chassis number list can be found at

http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm

and click on "Chassis Number List", or one can go direct at

http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/chassis1.htm

We also use a back up site at-

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jharper77/100reg1.htm

and again click on "Chassis Number List", or one can go direct at

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jharper77/chassis1.htm



All the best and good searching
-- 
John Harper

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 06:18:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Tranny's For Sale

He say's they both work.  If interested, contact him
(Keith) at 352-472-7104.  He may also try to sell you
his beautiful 61 BT7.

No personal interest---just doing a favor for a friend
who doesn't own a PC.

Tom

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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:47:13 +0000
Subject: Are you a member of the UK Austin Healey Club - Thames Valley


We are striving to improve our means of communication with you, our 
Thames Valley members. Email is very immediate, so we can alert you to 
any changes or additions to our activities. It of course also keeps our 
costs down, enabling us to provide more funds for other Club purposes - 
a better service to you all round.

To date we have less than 20% of our members' email addresses on our 
address list, but we are sure that at least half of you are on-line.

To provide us with your email address, just click HERE and send an email 
to the TVC webmaster, Alan Cross. The message should include "AHC TVC" 
and your name, though any other details (eg membership number, change of 
address or phone number, etc) would be appreciated. From this message we 
will extract your email address.

Any such information provided will be used only for club purposes.

If you know of any other AHC (TVC) members who may not have provided 
their email address to us, perhaps you could alert them to this appeal 
and ask them to check the TVC web site and drop us an email.

Thank you for your help in this.

Please visit the TVC web site for the latest information. We are still 
looking for more photos of TVC members with their (Austin) Healeys to 
put in the Gallery, so please don't be shy!

-- 
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny" - reg PHJ162E)
Webmaster for the Austin Healey Club (Thames Valley Centre) at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.co.uk

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 12:03:19 -0500
Subject: RE: More undocumented features. The Answer.


First I have to thank and congratulate all of you who submitted answers
to my little quiz. Many were quite ingenious.

I apologize to those who did not share the enthusiasm of the others.

I received around 95 responses (about 1/3 of those from Michael Oritt
;-)) and although some got close no one nailed it.

THE STORY

In 1981 I got a call from a Mr. Cameron who asked that I come to his
house and give him a quote on restoring his late father's Austin Healey.


When I got to his house I was taken around the back of a shed to see the
car. It was the worst example that I have ever seen. The wheels were
only visible from the hubs up. There was a 4" diameter tree growing up
through the passenger's floor and almost none of the frame could be seen
for mud. 

After a period of negotiation while I convinced Mr. Cameron that his
"very rare and valuable" 100/6 was beyond help, my brother and I went
down and gave him $50 for the car for parts.

I knew less about Healeys then than I do now and I did not realize at
the time the significance of the fact that the car had an Austin
Westminster type cylinder head. (manifold in head).  

We carried the parts of the car onto our trailer. We unbolted the
gearbox and left the engine because the pan had rotted through and
collapsed. 

When I was disassembling the doors, the bottom third of which was rotted
off, I came across these little springs. 


I thought they were a bit strange because I could not find any reference
to them in the Parts List. Like a lot of similar things I put them in
the top drawer of my desk.

About the same time I was restoring another Longbridge BN4 and, lo and
behold, an identical spring was trapped between the door liner and the
door skin on one side and a broken was spring hanging from the door
latch. I put one of the springs from Mr Cameron's car on that car, we
finished and returned the car to the owner and I didn't think that any
more about it. Unfortunately I did not keep track of the serial numbers
of either of the cars, it was 20 years ago.

Since that time I have never come across this spring installed on any 6
cylinder roadsters.

I posted the picture of the one remaining spring, which I came across
when looking for something else in my top drawer, a process which is
most interesting, just to see if anyone else had encountered the same
spring. 

Again, many thanks to all who had a shot at it. 

If I don't get too much flak about this answer maybe I will try another
one.

Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 12:35:58 EST
Subject: Beautiful Nash Healey on eBay

 <A 
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31863&;

item=2400100218">Click here: eBay Motors item 2400100218 (Ends 
Jan-21-03 15:47:48 PST ) - Nash : Nash Healey</A> 

Regards all.

Steve M

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 09:49:29 -0800
Subject: Re: What kind of gasket goes on the Girling brake/clutch

I ran into the same problem 18 years ago when I cleaned up and rebuilt the
reservoir in my BJ8 at the time I made the switch to DOT 5 silicone brake
fluid.  A friend of mine here doing a restoration on his BT7 also had the
same problem last week!  In fact, almost everyone I talk to that has redone
a dual stage reservoir has had the same problem - leaking at the bottom
fittings on the reservoir.

The factory used sealing washers (copper I think, but maybe aluminum) -
three of them, the 3rd being used to seal the inside can from the main can
so, theoretically, the fluid can't transfer from one to the other in case of
a leak in either the brake or clutch circuits.

These always seem to present problems on rebuild.  What I did was to use
'bolt' washers -  a metal washer with an integral neoprene seal in the hole.
It's a common hardware store item (can't remember the size offhand, probably
5 / 8 ").  Use them in place of the originals - they have worked beautifully
for everyone who has used them - no leaks at all!

>From memory, I can't recall the exact order of all the components on
re-assembly ( the parts books are not very clear on this!), but if you need
me to, I can check with my friend that just did this - let me know.

One word of caution:  I know from 18 years of experience with the BJ8 that
silicone fluid will not adversely affect the rubber in these washers - can't
be sure what will happen if glycol based brake fluid is used.  Anyone
planning to use this fluid should check to see whether the rubber is
compatible with the fluid.

Another note:  I  (and several others) have used these washers ( larger
size - 3 /4 " I think) on the oil drain bolt, with a small o-ring to centre
the washer on the bolt - no leaks, no seepage!  Plus, they are re-useable.
The one on the BJ8 has been there for at least 15 years, and I change the
oil twice each year, sometimes more if I drive it a lot - haven't changed
it - still not leaking!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 10:04 PM
Subject: What kind of gasket goes on the Girling brake/clutch (combination)
resevor on my 61 MKI 3000?


I finally got to the point of pouring brake fluid into my new Hydraulic
systems in my 61 BT7 MK1 3000 tonite.  everything is new and I am going with
Silicone.   The last thing I had to do was secure the old master cylinder
reservoir.  It is the style with the separate tube inside so that brake and
clutch have separate reservoirs within the one can.

I had to slightly bend my master cylinder to reservoir lines to get the
large
compression nuts on the bottom of the reservoir can to finally go on.  I
snugged them up very tight.

When I began adding my fluid, it began dripping out the bottom of the can
within a few minutes.  I checked the tightness of all fittings again and
they
are tight. I drained the reservoir and removed it and visually inspected the
two bottom fittings where they exit the bottom of the can, and they look OK

I noticed that I have COPPER gaskets on the outside bottom of the can.  Is
this correct?

Brian Collins

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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 13:16:24 EST
Subject: stuck engine

Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)

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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 14:22:27 EST
Subject: Re: stuck engine

Jerry Anderson

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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 15:01:10 EST
Subject: Re: stuck engine

I filled the cylinders with plain old 10-30 engine oil and topped them off 
every couple weeks for a couple of months.

I put a brand new (best) Sears 12 volt battery (for a 454 Chevy Pickup) in, 
hooked up my 12 volt, 40 amp battery charger (starting circuit) and jumper 
cables from my running '97 Tahoe.  I turned on the key and used the starter 
button...just barely bumping it.  It barely budged 10 or 11 times.  11th or 
12th time it turned over spewing out about a half quart of oil in a 25' arc.  
Using the starter will eliminate the slipped wrench concern, but all you 
could do about the oil is cover the spark plug holes and/or make some kind of 
catching setup.

I also used Marvel oil in a Ford tractor 4-cyl engine that had been sitting 
outside for 3 years...it turned over using a new 6 volt tractor battery.

Have fun.

Steve Mickelson.

In a message dated 1/12/03 10:18:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
RAWDAWGS@aol.com writes:

<< It is time to get my engine running (finally)! I am sure it is locked up 
and 
 I remember seeing some posts on this subject in the past but don't recall 
the 
 final best practices for freeing a stuck engine. I have a new paint job and 
 am somewhat nervous about turning the engine with a wrench, lest it slip and 
 tear up a fender. I recall something about a mixture of ATF and engine oil 
 poured in the spark plug holes, what is best? The motor was running 5 years 
 ago, but sitting in an unheated garage since. TIA.SM 
 
 Scott McPherson
 Lake Charles, LA.
 BN4 Longbridge
 BT7 rustbucket(for sale) >>

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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 15:39:37 EST
Subject: stuck engine

<A 
HREF="http://www.gibbasize.com/unstuck.htm";>http://www.gibbasize.com/unstuck.htm</A>

Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6

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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 22:09:12 +0000
Subject: Idle speed

what do people reckon should be the idle speed for an early 29D on HD6's 
with a BJ 8-style cam.

Any thoughts - and I am aware that there is no precise answer.

Yours,

Peter Dzwig

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:41:31 -0600
Subject: Pete Farmer

WST

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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 18:08:28 -0600
Subject: Virus Warning for List

>Listers,
>The side curtains that came with my 59 BT7 when I bought it are different than 
>   
>those shown in the Parts Manual or the ones that Moss has for sale, Mine have 
>a 
>rubber seal that goes around all 4 sides of the unit. Th

I'm guessing I probably wasn't the only one on the list to get it.  Just wanted 
to give everyone a heads up.

Win Graham
'63 BJ7

-- 
A film is never really good unless the camera 
is an eye in the head of a poet.
                        --Orson Welles

Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into 
the sting they give.
                        --Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________ 

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:09:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Idle speed

Bill Lawrence

Peter Dzwig wrote:

> Listers,
>
> what do people reckon should be the idle speed for an early 29D on HD6's
> with a BJ 8-style cam.
>
> Any thoughts - and I am aware that there is no precise answer.
>
> Yours,
>
> Peter Dzwig

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 18:22:41 -0600
Subject: Stuck Engine

Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:26:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Idle speed

If you're running a generator, you'll need at least this much to keep from
running on the battery at idle.  Too fast, and the car will run-on at shutdown.


bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************


> My Auto press manual says 500 RPM.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> 
> Peter Dzwig wrote:
> 
> > Listers,
> >
> > what do people reckon should be the idle speed for an early 29D on HD6's
> > with a BJ 8-style cam.
> >
> > Any thoughts - and I am aware that there is no precise answer.
> >
> > Yours,
> >
> > Peter Dzwig

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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 17:36:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus Warning for List

Robert Hughes
65 BJ8

At 06:08 PM 1/12/2003 -0600, Win Graham wrote:
>healeys@autox.team.net

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:54:06 -0500
Subject: Re: What kind of gasket goes on the Girling brake/clutch

Are you sure the leak is at the fitting?  On a friend's new BJ7 reservoir
the leak was at a seam of the bottom to the side piece.  A tack with the MIG
welder took care of it.

Keith Pennell

> I finally got to the point of pouring brake fluid into my new Hydraulic
> systems in my 61 BT7 MK1 3000 tonite.  everything is new and I am going
with
> Silicone.   The last thing I had to do was secure the old master cylinder
> reservoir.  It is the style with the separate tube inside so that brake
and
> clutch have separate reservoirs within the one can.
>
> I had to slightly bend my master cylinder to reservoir lines to get the
large
> compression nuts on the bottom of the reservoir can to finally go on.  I
> snugged them up very tight.
>
> When I began adding my fluid, it began dripping out the bottom of the can
> within a few minutes.  I checked the tightness of all fittings again and
they
> are tight. I drained the reservoir and removed it and visually inspected
the
> two bottom fittings where they exit the bottom of the can, and they look
OK
>
> I noticed that I have COPPER gaskets on the outside bottom of the can.  Is
> this correct?
>
> Brian Collins

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 19:01:35 -0800
Subject: silicone brake fluid

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:00:17 -0800
Subject: RE: silicone brake fluid


  I think the key question is, "How much do you drive the Healey, and how?"
My understanding is that silicone (DOT 5) is slightly more compressible than
DOT 3/4/5.1 (ethylene glycol based) and so it generally isn't as suitable
for competition use.  Also, it is hygroscopic, which means that contaminants
(e.g., water) are not absorbed by the fluid.  So again for competition, if
water does get into the system, it will remain separated, and therefore be
subject to boiling, which would have an obvious negative effect on braking
performance.  However, silicone is not hydrophilic, which means it doesn't
absorb moisture from the atmosphere.  So for a car that is driven only
occasionally, silicone generally works well; you don't have to worry about
rust from water in the fluid.  And I'm pretty sure your tin can (i.e.,
reservoir) is probably about as air tight as mine!  Also, it doesn't ruin
paint like glycol-based fluids.  I've used DOT 5 since rebuilding my system
2 1/2 years ago, and am very happy with it.  However, you CANNOT mix the
two.  I wouldn't recommend just flushing out the system.  You would need to
disassemble, thoroughly clean and dry all the parts and flush the lines to
ensure there is no glycol fluid in the system.  Mixing the 2 results of a
gelatinous goo.  So, unless you were doing a full brake system R&R, I'd
probably stick w/ DOT 4 and make sure I drained and refilled/flushed the
system every year at minimum, probably twice, once in the spring and again
in the fall to keep the water content to a minimum.

  Just my $.02

  Bruce Steele
  1960 BN7
  bsteele2@pacbell.net
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: I Erbs
    To: healeys@autox.team.net
    Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 7:01 PM
    Subject: silicone brake fluid


    The talk about leaks and such got me to thinking...
    I need to rebuild my calipers, replace the slave hose and rebuild a rear
    wheel cyl,
    Would I need to rebuild the master cyls too to replace the dot4 with dot
5
    fluid? Or would I be OK? Do you need to flush the dot 4 out? If so how?
Or
    should I stick with dot4 Girling?
    If this in the archive I'm sorry, but I did not find the answer there...
    I ERbs 59 BT7

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 21:58:54 -0800
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

I'm sure that the archives has this info, but here goes anyway.

If you decide to change to DOT 5 silicone, I strongly recommend that all
rubber in the hydraulic system be replaced.  This means the calipers (or
front wheel cyls. if a drum braked car), both master cyls, the clutch slave
cyl, and the rear wheel cyls.  In the case of a later servo equipped car,
that should be done as well.

In addition, the 4 rubber hoses should be replaced - both front wheel hoses,
the rear axle hose, and the clutch slave hose.  In essence, a complete
hydraulic system re-build. (don't forget the reservoir!)  The steel brake
pipes can be blown with compressed air when everything is apart - the
bleeding process will get rid of any remaining moisture or debris in the
lines.  I've known some people to flush the pipes with methyl hydrate, but I
believe that may be a bit of overkill.

It may be more of a project than you are willing to do at this time, but it
seems that you will be at least half way there anyway.  BTW, opinions are
divided on the use of silicone fluid - some very knowledgeable Healey people
don't recommend it.  I believe that the benefits oughtweigh the negatives -
if the job is done right in the first place.

My BJ8 has 18 years and about 80,000 miles on it since I made the switch -
the brakes have been excellent all along, with no problems.  You should also
note that the fluid should be changed, just not as often as with glycol
based brake fluids - SBF does not attack the rubber in the same way, and it
does not attract moisture.  Also note that it can be a bit tricky to bleed.
If you think that you may compete or race the car, I wouldn't do it - some
people have had brake fade problems in that type of use.

Most owners that I know that have restored cars use it for the obvious
reason - it doesn't marr paint if it spills or leaks - a very compelling
incentive after spending huge wads of money on a beautiful restoration!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 7:01 PM
Subject: silicone brake fluid


The talk about leaks and such got me to thinking...
I need to rebuild my calipers, replace the slave hose and rebuild a rear
wheel cyl,
Would I need to rebuild the master cyls too to replace the dot4 with dot 5
fluid? Or would I be OK? Do you need to flush the dot 4 out? If so how?  Or
should I stick with dot4 Girling?
If this in the archive I'm sorry, but I did not find the answer there...
I ERbs 59 BT7

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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 07:07:48 -0600
Subject: Pete Farmer

WST

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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:42:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Moto Lita Steeringwheel: 15" or 16"

I am now to buy a steering wheel for my BJ8.
Unfortunately I could not get an original old sloted
one so I will by a new from Moto Lita, which basically
looks same, only the slots are shorter. The question is
now about the size. I guess original was 16"??

Is there a big difference between the two sizes an if
so, which kind of? Does anyone have experiences in this?

happy healeying, Martin

_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:42:33 EST
Subject: Re: More undocumented features. The Answer.

Absolutely try another one. Pay no attention to the nay-sayers. This thread 
was much more interesting than many others I have read. For those who don't 
like a particular thread, just use the D-E-L-E-T-E key. That's what I do. 
This thread was fun even for " we who are not all-knowing." Keep up the good 
work.

       Price Tuley
       BT7

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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:44:11 -0600
Subject: Fwd: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

Thanks to all whom replied concerning the 3000 block search.  I have a new 
question.  I do have a really nice BN-4 block.  The question is, can I bore it 
to 3000 specs without breaking into the water jacket???  Tom at Fourintune says 
that it is cannot be done successfully, but I was wondering if anyone out there 
has evidence to the contrary. 
I could take it to my engine builder who for $60 will bore it out.  If he 
breaks into a water jacket on the first hole it will only be $10!!!!  Perhaps 
it is worth the risk and effort.  The block is just an eyesore in my garage 
anyway.  Any info on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7

 


----- End forwarded message -----

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:37:20 EST
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

The moisture is in the air and it will still get into the system. The water 
will still go to the same place in the system. Straight to the bottom. Once 
there is moisture in the system the corosion will start.

Also the silicone fluid will retain air suspended in the system and you will 
always have a spongie pedal.


                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 08:52:53 -0800
Subject: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:03:35 +0000
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

  -  Chinese Proverb
> When was the last time you spilled brake fluid on your car ???????????
> 
> The moisture is in the air and it will still get into the system. The water 
> will still go to the same place in the system. Straight to the bottom. Once 
> there is moisture in the system the corosion will start.
> 
> Also the silicone fluid will retain air suspended in the system and you will 
> always have a spongie pedal.
> 
> 
>                            **************************
> 
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
> 
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way  
> Stockton Calif.  95205
> 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:04:39 -0600
Subject: RE: looking for a 3000 bare block, thanks!!  NOW 100-6 to 3000

-----Original Message-----
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu [mailto:dicksonr@uwm.edu]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:45 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Subject: RE: looking for a 3000 bare block, thanks!!


Jack,
Thanks a lot for the info!!!!!  We have a 100-6 block,...it was something like
30 from the end of the production line.  It is stock bore.  It is nice and
clean.  We have extra 3000 pistons so all we need are rings.  Otherwise, I'd
take you up on the offer of your block.  We are just planning on going to
stock
3000 bore.  According to your info that should be ok then.  If not we lost a
block we had no use for anyway.  Thanks again.
ltaer,
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7

Quoting "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>:

> Hi Randy, I have a 26C (100-6) bare block that I used for years in my BT7
Mk2
> (which I bought new 40 yrs. ago).  Here's the story...many, many years ago
I
> bored the 26C block to 0.030 over a stock 3000 bore (long story here).  I
was
> told by several folks not to do this but I did it anyway.  It worked very
> well for many years until I decided to restore my original 29E engine.
Since
> then, the 26C engine has been boiled out, mains line bored, new cam
bearings
> installed, and the top has been surfaced.  Thinking at the time I was going
> to use it again, I had it overbored once again to 0.060 over a stock 3000
> bore...this was a mistake because I ended up with thin cylinder walls.
What
> this block needs is to be sleeved back to a stock 3000 bore and it ought to
> be good to go for many more years.  Let me know if you're interested.  I'll
> let it go for $100 if you're willing to journey to central Arkansas to pick
> it up.  Good Luck!!
> Jack Brashear
> 501-376-3633 office
> 501-847-4484 home

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a 
name of winmail.dat]

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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:35:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 100-6 and 3000 blocks


__________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:54:19 EST
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

<< Thanks for the informative response. I drive the car about 500-600 miles a
year, a few times in the fall/winter and about 5-6 times a month in the
spring/summer. I live in the Pacific Northwest, so humidity and rain are an
issue here, but I guess  I will stick with dot 4 for no >>

Sorry -- didn't see the response. It is interesting to note that in a recent 
MG vintage racing newsletter, one of our technical gurus published a table 
showing the "dry" and "wet" boiling temperatures (as published by the 
manufacturers) of a variety of silicone and non-silicone brake fluids. This 
adds an additional set of facts to the information you should think about 
when deciding which fluid to use.

"dry" fluid is right out of the can, and has had no oppportunity to absorb 
any moisture. "Wet" fluid has absorbed moisture after being in a car for a 
period of time -- typically takes a year or two, depending on conditions, for 
fluid to absorb whatever moisture it's going to. 

The boiling temp of the fluid is, of course, the important factor, since 
that's what causes brake failure under normal use. Overuse of the brakes, 
brakes heat up, brake fluid eventually boils, result-no brakes.

The surprising factor was that, while most petroleum-based fluids, such as 
GT-LMA have very slightly higher boiling points (but only two or three 
degrees) than silicone Dot 5 WHEN DRY, the wet boiling points are much 
different and wet petroleum-based fluids boil at a much lower temperature 
(40-100 degrees different) than silicone-based.

What that means is that, if you keep your fluid fresh (vintage racers 
typically change theirs every season, and professionals every race) 
petroleum-based fluids are very slight better, but only by a few degrees. 
However, if you don't change your fluid frequently, you are much more likely 
to experience brake failure under heavy use if you're using petroleum-based 
fluid, than if you're using silicone.

Bottom line, silicone may be better for the average classic car owner who 
doesn't use his car often and doesn't change the fluid regularly. Even for 
racing uses, silicone is acceptable since it doesn't have a much different 
boiling point. However, for any use, if you're running regular fluid, change 
it every year at least if you're racing, and at least every two years if you 
just use the car on the street.

Isn't that interesting?

Cheers
Gary Anderson

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:52:36 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:44 AM
Subject: Fwd: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????


> I have trying to post this email the past few days and have been having
> problems.  If this is a duplicate please disregard.
>
> Thanks to all whom replied concerning the 3000 block search.  I have a new
> question.  I do have a really nice BN-4 block.  The question is, can I
bore it
> to 3000 specs without breaking into the water jacket???  Tom at Fourintune
says
> that it is cannot be done successfully, but I was wondering if anyone out
there
> has evidence to the contrary.
> I could take it to my engine builder who for $60 will bore it out.  If he
> breaks into a water jacket on the first hole it will only be $10!!!!
Perhaps
> it is worth the risk and effort.  The block is just an eyesore in my
garage
> anyway.  Any info on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:38:30 EST
Subject: Re: stuck engine

 We had a Longbridge engine that we rebuilt and it sat here in the shop for 
about a year before it was installed to start. When we went to start the 
motor it was frozen and would not move no matter what we did. We removed the 
oil pan  to find that one of the wrist pins was dry causing the engine not to 
turn.  

With the car only sitting for 5 years and it had been running previously 
unless the engine sat outside with the plugs removed I would not figure the 
pistons were frozen.

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:16:59 -0600
Subject: Dowty Washers, Dowty Seals


I'm not finding Dowty Washers or Dowty seals anywhere.   Where can I purchase
6 of these with a 1/2" inside diameter?

Brian Collins
Dallas, TX

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:23:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Dowty Washers, Dowty Seals

I think that hydraulic supply/repair shops might have your washers.
Check these links for on line purchase.

http://www.taylor-race.com/items.cfm?category=Special%20Parts&subcategory1=Dowty%20Washers
http://www.amstreetrod.com/html/seals.html

Dave Russell


Brian Collins wrote:
> 
> OK, I have been all over the internet, to Home depot, Elliot's hardware (Huge
> and has everything known to man), Performance supply in Dallas, And the Holley
> website said that Autozone carried them,
> 
> I'm not finding Dowty Washers or Dowty seals anywhere.   Where can I purchase
> 6 of these with a 1/2" inside diameter?
> 
> Brian Collins

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From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:41:40 +0000
Subject: Re: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

S Shaub






>From: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
>Reply-To: "AH102" <bluechipracing@snet.net>
>To: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????
>Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 12:52:36 -0500
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from mc7-f32.law1.hotmail.com ([65.54.253.39]) by 
>mc7-s8.law1.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.5600); Mon, 13 Jan 
>2003 10:27:40 -0800
>Received: from 42dbca82.dsl.aros.net ([66.219.202.130]) by 
>mc7-f32.law1.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.5600); Mon, 13 Jan 
>2003 10:27:37 -0800
>Received: (from majordom@localhost)by 42dbca82.dsl.aros.net (8.12.5/8.12.5) 
>id h0DIB024016839for healeys-qwerty; Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:11:00 -0700
>Message-ID: <002101c2bb2c$8e985be0$9200fea9@clnvl1.ct.home.com>
>References: <1042472651.3e22decb971bc@mail03.imt.uwm.edu>
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
>Sender: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>Precedence: bulk
>Return-Path: healeys-owner@autox.team.net
>X-OriginalArrivalTime: 13 Jan 2003 18:27:37.0475 (UTC) 
>FILETIME=[72DE2D30:01C2BB31]
>
>  Randy:  If Tom Kovacs says not to do it, then don't do it!
>Even if you don't break through on machining, the wall may end up being 
>very
>thin, and you won't know it until you ruin your $$$$ rebuilt engine.
>
>Jim
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:44 AM
>Subject: Fwd: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????
>
>
> > I have trying to post this email the past few days and have been having
> > problems.  If this is a duplicate please disregard.
> >
> > Thanks to all whom replied concerning the 3000 block search.  I have a 
>new
> > question.  I do have a really nice BN-4 block.  The question is, can I
>bore it
> > to 3000 specs without breaking into the water jacket???  Tom at 
>Fourintune
>says
> > that it is cannot be done successfully, but I was wondering if anyone 
>out
>there
> > has evidence to the contrary.
> > I could take it to my engine builder who for $60 will bore it out.  If 
>he
> > breaks into a water jacket on the first hole it will only be $10!!!!
>Perhaps
> > it is worth the risk and effort.  The block is just an eyesore in my
>garage
> > anyway.  Any info on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> > 63 BJ-7
>


_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* 

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:12:40 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

When I put my top up, I'm careful to push forward on the front header rail to
stretch the top while pushing up on the rear end of the side rails (cantrails)
to be sure they clear the top end of the rear piece and don't bind.   I do one
side and then the other, and then latch the top, and it does eliminate the
mismatch.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC




----- Original Message -----
  From: Freese, Ken
  To: 'healeys'
  Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:52 AM
  Subject: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment


  On many convertible tops, the side rails seem to droop a bit at their rear
  edges resulting in a missmatch with the rear vertical rail. consequently I
  get a little breeze staight into my ear. I don't see any adjustment that
  could affect this. Is it the accumulation of slop at worn hinge rivets?
Even
  on pictures of new cars, the alignment doesn't look perfect.
  Just another note. I took the windscreen apart yesterday and after
comparing
  the Moss glazing rubber with the original, I am going to use the 38 year
old
  original after a good cleaning!
  Thanks,
  Ken Freese
  65 BJ8

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:23:25 -0600
Subject: Dowty Washers etc.

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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:30:32 +0000
Subject: Re: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

Just a note to point out that it was standard parctice for works teams 
to overbore the engines and I don't doubt that your man has better 
equipment than the works had in the fifties - not to cast any aspersions 
on the quality of the carftsmen at DHMC or BMC at the time!

My BN4 was originally overbored 30 thou "and a bit", it only went west 
because the piston deposited several large pieces of ring in it!

Peter Dzwig

AH102 wrote:

> Randy:  If Tom Kovacs says not to do it, then don't do it!
>Even if you don't break through on machining, the wall may end up being very
>thin, and you won't know it until you ruin your $$$$ rebuilt engine.
>
>Jim
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:44 AM
>Subject: Fwd: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????
>
>
>  
>
>>I have trying to post this email the past few days and have been having
>>problems.  If this is a duplicate please disregard.
>>
>>Thanks to all whom replied concerning the 3000 block search.  I have a new
>>question.  I do have a really nice BN-4 block.  The question is, can I
>>    
>>
>bore it
>  
>
>>to 3000 specs without breaking into the water jacket???  Tom at Fourintune
>>    
>>
>says
>  
>
>>that it is cannot be done successfully, but I was wondering if anyone out
>>    
>>
>there
>  
>
>>has evidence to the contrary.
>>I could take it to my engine builder who for $60 will bore it out.  If he
>>breaks into a water jacket on the first hole it will only be $10!!!!
>>    
>>
>Perhaps
>  
>
>>it is worth the risk and effort.  The block is just an eyesore in my
>>    
>>
>garage
>  
>
>>anyway.  Any info on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
>>
>>Randy Dickson
>>Healey Archaeologist
>>Sturgeon Bay, WI.
>>63 BJ-7

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From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:27:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Dowty Washers, Dowty Seals

A source would be Earl's - the Indy store's web site is 
http://www.earlsindy.com.


Bob Haskell
1960 Austin-Healey 3000 Mk I
1964 Austin Mini Cooper RHD
1980 MGB-LE
bhaskell@iquest.net

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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:39:24 -0500
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

Ed Adams

-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: eyera3@attbi.com <eyera3@attbi.com>; bsteele2@pacbell.net
<bsteele2@pacbell.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid



However, for any use, if you're running regular fluid, change
it every year at least if you're racing, and at least every two years if you
just use the car on the street.

Isn't that interesting?

Cheers
Gary Anderson

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:06:15 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:08:46 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 15:24:49 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

-----Original Message-----
"earmuffs  will cure that breeze problem, however, you may be the only
person on the left coast with earmuffs.  what are you doing with the hood
raised anyway ?" 

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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:51:40 -0400
Subject: Laygear

Thanks

Rick Swain 

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:17:19 EST
Subject: Re: Laygear

<< My Healey rebuild is rapidly becoming a restoration. We took the gearbox
apart on the weekend. Bad news is that the laygear (layshaft cluster) needs
replacing. Moss and other usual suppliers say it's n/a. Does anybody know
where I can get one - new, remanufactured, good used condition? My car is a
late BN4. Part number I believe is 1B3728.

Thanks

Rick Swain  >>

Rick, we have  all the cluster gears available rebuilt exchange. We also have 
a special hardneed syncro ring that works a lot better thatn some of the 
other ones that are available.

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:35:11 +1100
Subject: RE: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,  


Alex Hope


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Thursday, 9 January 2003 8:03 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,
ear ly BN1)


BTW. Has anyone any idea of the weight difference between the two types
of diff assemblies complete? 

I'm into that type of thing. Unsprung weight is a big penalty :-)

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 9-Jan-03 9:50 AM
To: Jerry Wall; John@jharper.demon.co.uk; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: locking feature of nuts (Was Re: Interesting scary story,
ear ly BN1)

Bob Bowie of this list has several rears for sale at under $100.
Probably
10 or so of them and of almost all ratio - doubt there is a 3.5.  Rears
are
located in Richmond, VA.  Contact him at deemi@juno.com

No financial interest.

Keith Pennell

> why not just replace the 4 bolt rear with a 5bolt 3000 differential.
you
automatically get at least a 3.9 ratio, larger brakes, 5 blot hubs and a
rear end assembly that is almost bullet proof.  there should be enough
of
them around for no more than $150-250

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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 19:29:02 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment


> Jerry,
> Last time I drove the car was to the United British Sports Car Club
> Christmas party with the car on Saturday night. The party is always in
> January. Sort of a Lucas thing! I think it was in the 50 degree range.
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> "earmuffs  will cure that breeze problem, however, you may be the only
> person on the left coast with earmuffs.  what are you doing with the hood
> raised anyway ?"

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:07:25 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid

Silicon fluid does entrain air if agitated and air bubbles take a long time to
leave the fluid. Don't agitate the container and don't use fluid with bubbles in
it.

Bill Lawrence

eyera3@attbi.com wrote:

> So you vote no on replacing the dot 4 with with dot 5? ;)
> Thanks to all who repsonded. I will keep the girling and just rebuild my
> calipers and replace the slave hose.
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
>   -  Chinese Proverb
> > When was the last time you spilled brake fluid on your car ???????????
> >
> > The moisture is in the air and it will still get into the system. The water
> > will still go to the same place in the system. Straight to the bottom. Once
> > there is moisture in the system the corosion will start.
> >
> > Also the silicone fluid will retain air suspended in the system and you will
> > always have a spongie pedal.
> >
> >
> >                            **************************
> >
> > Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> > can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
> > message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
> >
> > David Nock
> > President/Service Manager
> > British Car Specialists
> > 2060 N Wilson Way
> > Stockton Calif.  95205
> > 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> > Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> > BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> > ========================================
> > Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From "Eckert Josef,T5" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:12:11 +0100
Subject: BN6, BN7 body plugs

Just found time to check about the body plugs. They look identical to ones used 
at Morris Minor Saloons to inspect rear axle (oil plug removal) from inside the 
car.
Those should be available at Morris Minor Parts dealers. You only need to 
mention you want the "inspection hole plug for the rear axle".
Hope I could help.
Best wishes,

Josef Eckert
Koenigswinter, Germany

BN1, BT7 MK2, Sprite MK 3

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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:34:20 -0500
Subject: Frame Rails, Are they straight?

Is the frame straight flat on the bottom edge all the way to the rear cross
member?

If I use a 4' level and slide it along the bottom edge of the frame it looks
like the beam take an upward bend just forward of where the rear axel would
be, resulting in a 0.2" deviation a the endpoint of the frame rail.
I know that the top edge of the frame rail narrows down at this point quite
considerably. Also on some later models there are a couple of bends at this
point.

This bend is probably accounting for some problems I'm having getting the door
jams to fit properly.

Sincerely

Rick Neves
'56 BN-2

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From "Richard E Pratt" <prattri at msn.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:27:36 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Freese, Ken
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:53 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment


On many convertible tops, the side rails seem to droop a bit at their rear
edges resulting in a missmatch with the rear vertical rail. consequently I
get a little breeze staight into my ear. I don't see any adjustment that
could affect this. Is it the accumulation of slop at worn hinge rivets? Even
on pictures of new cars, the alignment doesn't look perfect.
Just another note. I took the windscreen apart yesterday and after comparing
the Moss glazing rubber with the original, I am going to use the 38 year old
original after a good cleaning!
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:57:34 -0500
Subject: RE: Frame Rails, Are they straight?

I'm just going through the same thing on a car that I'm working on and
there should only be one bend in the bottom of the frame.

This bend starts just ahead of the front body brackets (outriggers) and
results in a decrease in frame height toward the front.

The bottom surface should be straight from the front body brackets to
the rear cross member.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Splitkane
Sent: 14-Jan-03 9:34 AM
To: Healey list
Subject: Frame Rails, Are they straight?

This is regarding a BN-2 main frame rail.

Is the frame straight flat on the bottom edge all the way to the rear
cross
member?

If I use a 4' level and slide it along the bottom edge of the frame it
looks
like the beam take an upward bend just forward of where the rear axel
would
be, resulting in a 0.2" deviation a the endpoint of the frame rail.
I know that the top edge of the frame rail narrows down at this point
quite
considerably. Also on some later models there are a couple of bends at
this
point.

This bend is probably accounting for some problems I'm having getting
the door
jams to fit properly.

Sincerely

Rick Neves
'56 BN-2

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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:38:32 -0600
Subject: NEED BN2 FRONT COVER FOR HEATER

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a 
name of winmail.dat]

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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:14:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Thanks for all the hints concerning the steering wheel

decided to take a 15" finally.

happy healeying, Martin

_________________________________________________
FindLaw - Free Case Law, Jobs, Library, Community
http://www.FindLaw.com
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 13:54:33 EST
Subject: Re: NEED BN2 FRONT COVER FOR HEATER

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:58:45 -0700
Subject: Auction Report

There are quite a few other auctions in the Phoenix area besides Barrett 
Jackson during this three week period.  There is one called the Silver 
Auction which happened to be quite close to our home, so the wife & I 
decided to check it out.  It turned out to be a rather "low end" type 
auction, but there were some interesting cars there.  There was a '63 
Healey (about a 25 footer in my opinion) that went up for auction while 
we were there.  The paint job looked decent, but close inspection showed 
painted over paint chips in the underlying paint (so it had no prep to 
speak of),  there was obvious rust at the forward side of the rear wheel 
wells, a few paint bubbles forward of the rear wheel wells, the Austin 
Healey script on the boot lid was straight (didn't follow the curvature 
of the boot), the hood was well worn on the driver's side edges, etc. 
etc.  It did sound quite smooth, but the hood was never opened while we 
were there.

It was bid up to $15900 and to my great surprise, did not meet the 
seller's reserve.  Makes me wonder if the Barrett Jackson results have 
resulted in some unrealistic expectations in some people's opinions.  I 
would have had trouble bidding $12000 for it myself.

Will be interesting to see what the eight or so Healeys bring at B-J 
this weekend.  The number of Healeys there reflects the unbelievably 
high prices a few went for last year.

Regards,

Russ Staub
Mesa, AZ
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
'60 AN5

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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:17:51 -0800
Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Restoration

Best,
Greg
67 BJ8

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Kuzman
> Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 2:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Steering Wheel Restoration
>
>
> Greetings List!
>
> Has anyone had an original steering wheel restored? Does anyone
> have any recommendations on a reputable place to have this
> accomplished? What is the cost range? Thanks.
>
> John - BJ7

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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:17:49 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

Best,
Greg
67 BJ8

> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Freese, Ken
>   To: 'healeys'
>   Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:52 AM
>   Subject: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment
>
>
>   On many convertible tops, the side rails seem to droop a bit at
> their rear
>   edges resulting in a missmatch with the rear vertical rail.
> consequently I
>   get a little breeze staight into my ear. I don't see any adjustment that
>   could affect this. Is it the accumulation of slop at worn hinge rivets?
> Even
>   on pictures of new cars, the alignment doesn't look perfect.
>   Just another note. I took the windscreen apart yesterday and after
> comparing
>   the Moss glazing rubber with the original, I am going to use the 38 year
> old
>   original after a good cleaning!
>   Thanks,
>   Ken Freese
>   65 BJ8

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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:42:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Auction Report

I think you are right about unrealistic expectations on the part of many
sellers ...... another example are Healeys auctioned on Ebay - most do not
make the seller's reserve.....

I'm also looking forward to the results at B-J ..... it will be interesting.

Doug Ingram


----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Staub" <bbb11489@azboss.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 10:58 AM
Subject: Auction Report


> Hi all,
>
> There are quite a few other auctions in the Phoenix area besides Barrett
> Jackson during this three week period.  There is one called the Silver
> Auction which happened to be quite close to our home, so the wife & I
> decided to check it out.  It turned out to be a rather "low end" type
> auction, but there were some interesting cars there.  There was a '63
> Healey (about a 25 footer in my opinion)
> snip
> It was bid up to $15900 and to my great surprise, did not meet the
> seller's reserve.  Makes me wonder if the Barrett Jackson results have
> resulted in some unrealistic expectations in some people's opinions.  I
> would have had trouble bidding $12000 for it myself.
>
> Will be interesting to see what the eight or so Healeys bring at B-J
> this weekend.  The number of Healeys there reflects the unbelievably
> high prices a few went for last year.
>
> Regards,
>
> Russ Staub

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From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: Michael Salter <mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com>  
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:09:45 -0800
Subject: BJ8 For Sale

The car is located in sunny Santa Barbara, CA and the owner's info is:
_____________________
Eric.Kanowsky@gte.net
805-687-5710 home
805-687-5210 fax
805-886-3239 mobile


Good luck, and if you come to town to buy it, give me a call.  I'd love to
swap sea stories! (call my cellphone).

Ran Bullard
Director of Engineering
Clear Channel Santa Barbara
414 E. Cota St.
Santa Barbara, CA  93101
Office: (805) 879-8309
Cell:    (805) 331-6606
Fax:     (805) 879-8389
e-mail: ranbullard@clearchannel.com

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:46:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Online Catalog

Are you sending out online catalogues with a zip file attached or is
that a virus in someone's mailbox?

Best--Michael

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:26:48 -0700
Subject: Differential noise

On my BN2 there is quite a bit of differential gear whine on coast. It
is quiet on cruise & acceleration. My first thought was that the
traditional problem of too much ring & pinion backlash was the culprit &
that resetting the clearances would solve the problem.

I asked the local foreign car garage expert, who claims to have worked
on Healeys, about resetting the ring & pinion mesh & he said that he had
never been successful in quieting noisy gears this way. The only thing
that he would consider was starting over with new ring & pinion gears,
new carrier bearings, & new pinion bearings.

I don't really want to get a new standard ring & pinion at this time. I
am waiting for a new 3.54 Lempert gear set from the next run, which may
take some time to get. In the mean time, I would really like to get my
existing gears quieted if possible.

What has been your experience with resetting the adjustments to
eliminate gear whine? Is the mechanic correct?

Thanks for the help,

Dave Russell
BN2

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:29:51 EST
Subject: Donuts - San Fran Bay Area only

See you there, my California car compatriots.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 14:41:55 -0800
Subject: FW: This is a scream

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:11:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Donuts - San Fran Bay Area only

Keith Pennell
Newport News, VA

> Had our first Donut Derelicts North gathering last Saturday in Mountain
View,
> California. With only two days of warning, nearly 20 cars showed up.
Majority
> were older Jag Xk6s (it was threatening rain), but two Healeys, an XK150,
a
> Land Rover, and XJS, a Miata and an Audi TT with an English flag (red
cross
> of St George on white field, btw) on the rear window. I'll be back next
> Saturday and as often as possible after that.
> This parking lot would make a great gathering place for Saturday tours, as
> well, for any clubs that need a convenient meeting place.
> Invite your friends, pass it on to other clubs, let's make this a
phenomenon.
> Krispy Kreme parking lot, Rengsdorf Exit off Highway 101, in Mountain
View.
> Anytime from about 8:00 am to about 10:00 am.
>
> See you there, my California car compatriots.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
> Editor, British Car Magazine

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:16:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Auction Report

True to form for the list, I will agree.  Have talked to 2 guys who have
seen a 66? BJ8 for sale here in VA.  From their description it sounds like a
$10k car.  Seller is wanting $15k.

Keith Pennell
"A car is always worth more to the seller than the buyer."


BTW  I have for sale a 88 Bonneville.  205000 miles.  $1500
See????  I told you so!!!!

> Russ,
>
> I think you are right about unrealistic expectations on the part of many
> sellers ...... another example are Healeys auctioned on Ebay - most do not
> make the seller's reserve.....
>
> I'm also looking forward to the results at B-J ..... it will be
interesting.
>
> Doug Ingram

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:21:00 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

IMHO  Treat the disease, not the symptoms!!!  If the fit of the top
frame/bow suggests sag in the frame, attack the sagging frame.  Otherwise,
you have a frame which still needs attention and now a top frame which only
fits if you keep a sagging frame.

My .02
Keith Pennell

> Ken,
> I had the same problem on my BJ8. I believe the cause is a sag in the car
> frame, which causes the top to be too long. If you undo the top from the
> bow, and pull on the top frame the side rails will move all the way up. My
> solution was to cut about 1/2 inch from the front of the bow(Bow was
> overhanging the windshield about 1/2 In) and reshape it to the original
> cross section. You will have to refit the top to the bow and readjust the
> top locks.
> Richard Pratt
> 65 BJ8, 27068
> Cincinnati, OH

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:40:45 -0600
Subject: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.  Reminiscent of when
I switched to synthetic gear oil in the final drive of my BMW bike.  Started
leaking and never stopped until I replaced the final drive seal and went back
to organic.

Every part of this system is brand new other than the brass or bronze junction
blocks and the calipers.   New stainless lines from classic tubes  as well
($400)

Any body else been through this with silicone brake fluid?   I'm using the
brand that Moss sells "Cartel"

Brian Collins

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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 16:12:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

BrianM


At 05:40 PM 1/14/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>I'm getting this bad feeling about having decided to do this car in Silicone
>Dot 5.  I thought I had the reservoir seepage stopped, so decided to start
>bleeding the system down.
>
>Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.  Reminiscent of when
>I switched to synthetic gear oil in the final drive of my BMW bike.  Started
>leaking and never stopped until I replaced the final drive seal and went back
>to organic.
>
>Every part of this system is brand new other than the brass or bronze junction
>blocks and the calipers.   New stainless lines from classic tubes  as well
>($400)
>
>Any body else been through this with silicone brake fluid?   I'm using the
>brand that Moss sells "Cartel"
>
>Brian Collins

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:32:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Differential noise

Bill Lawrence

Dave & Marlene wrote:

> Need some of your expert advice,
>
> On my BN2 there is quite a bit of differential gear whine on coast. It
> is quiet on cruise & acceleration. My first thought was that the
> traditional problem of too much ring & pinion backlash was the culprit &
> that resetting the clearances would solve the problem.
>
> I asked the local foreign car garage expert, who claims to have worked
> on Healeys, about resetting the ring & pinion mesh & he said that he had
> never been successful in quieting noisy gears this way. The only thing
> that he would consider was starting over with new ring & pinion gears,
> new carrier bearings, & new pinion bearings.
>
> I don't really want to get a new standard ring & pinion at this time. I
> am waiting for a new 3.54 Lempert gear set from the next run, which may
> take some time to get. In the mean time, I would really like to get my
> existing gears quieted if possible.
>
> What has been your experience with resetting the adjustments to
> eliminate gear whine? Is the mechanic correct?
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:37:35 -0600
Subject: Update on Reservoir  leaks--appears to be the female acorn nut

I removed the separate reservoir cylinder for the clutch and thought that had
fixed it, but,.....only slowed it down.  so,  I drained and disassembled it
again, with Stat-o-Seals top and bottom and put it back in and added fluid.

BUT

This time, I rotated the reservoir 180 degrees so that the can fitting that
had been leaking would now be on the rear most position.

Now that fitting which is now on the rear most position is not leaking,  BUT,
even though I rotated the can 180 DEGREES It is still leaking on the front
most or clutch side of the reservoir bottom fittings.  This would indicate to
me that the problem is NOT with the can but rather something about the
stainless line from Classic tubes or perhaps, the angle at which it approaches
the bottom of the res can.

Any experience with THIS new finding???

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 16:53:20 -0800
Subject: RE: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brian Mix
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 4:12 PM
To: Brian Collins
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Help!! Its leaking everywhere!


Start tightening. The same thing happened to me. Just keep cranking on the
nuts. Eventually it'll stop.

BrianM


At 05:40 PM 1/14/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>I'm getting this bad feeling about having decided to do this car in
Silicone
>Dot 5.  I thought I had the reservoir seepage stopped, so decided to start
>bleeding the system down.
>
>Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.  Reminiscent of
when
>I switched to synthetic gear oil in the final drive of my BMW bike.
Started
>leaking and never stopped until I replaced the final drive seal and went
back
>to organic.
>
>Every part of this system is brand new other than the brass or bronze
junction
>blocks and the calipers.   New stainless lines from classic tubes  as well
>($400)
>
>Any body else been through this with silicone brake fluid?   I'm using the
>brand that Moss sells "Cartel"
>
>Brian Collins

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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:51:50 -0500
Subject: BJ8 rear seats

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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:50:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Differential noise

Bob

----------
>From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
>To: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Differential noise
>Date: Tue, Jan 14, 2003, 4:32 PM
>

> I think he is correct. Maybe what you need to do is buy one of the diffs that
> keep showing up on ebay as a back-up.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Dave & Marlene wrote:
>
>> Need some of your expert advice,
>>
>> On my BN2 there is quite a bit of differential gear whine on coast. It
>> is quiet on cruise & acceleration. My first thought was that the
>> traditional problem of too much ring & pinion backlash was the culprit &
>> that resetting the clearances would solve the problem.
>>
>> I asked the local foreign car garage expert, who claims to have worked
>> on Healeys, about resetting the ring & pinion mesh & he said that he had
>> never been successful in quieting noisy gears this way. The only thing
>> that he would consider was starting over with new ring & pinion gears,
>> new carrier bearings, & new pinion bearings.
>>
>> I don't really want to get a new standard ring & pinion at this time. I
>> am waiting for a new 3.54 Lempert gear set from the next run, which may
>> take some time to get. In the mean time, I would really like to get my
>> existing gears quieted if possible.
>>
>> What has been your experience with resetting the adjustments to
>> eliminate gear whine? Is the mechanic correct?
>>
>> Thanks for the help,
>>
>> Dave Russell
>> BN2

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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:05:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Update on Reservoir  leaks--appears to be the female acorn

I don't believe that choice of brake fluids has anything to do with
your symptoms.

My direct experience with silicone fluid comes from old air cooled
VWs.  Never had any problem with leakage at any metal to metal fitting
-- or anywhere else for that matter on two quite old cars of
equivalent vintage to Healeys.  If you let your supply of silicone
fluid sit on the bench for a day before filling the reservoirs, a lot
of bubbles and problems will disappear.  Pour as if it were  1895
cognac.  Hope you have flare wrenches for the nuts on the lines.  If
not, take care not to round off the corners.

-Roland
BN1, BJ7

On Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:37:35 -0600, you wrote:

::OK, following Brian Mix's advice, I started cranking down on fasteners.  The
::ones leaking are all the larger 9/16 acorn nuts like the ones under the
::reservoir.
::
::I removed the separate reservoir cylinder for the clutch and thought that had
::fixed it, but,.....only slowed it down.  so,  I drained and disassembled it
::again, with Stat-o-Seals top and bottom and put it back in and added fluid.
::
::BUT
::
::This time, I rotated the reservoir 180 degrees so that the can fitting that
::had been leaking would now be on the rear most position.
::
::Now that fitting which is now on the rear most position is not leaking,  BUT,
::even though I rotated the can 180 DEGREES It is still leaking on the front
::most or clutch side of the reservoir bottom fittings.  This would indicate to
::me that the problem is NOT with the can but rather something about the
::stainless line from Classic tubes or perhaps, the angle at which it approaches
::the bottom of the res can.
::
::Any experience with THIS new finding???
::

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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:09:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

>  Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.
>

My guess would be that the connections are not tight enough if it is seeping "at
every threaded coupling".  I did the Dot 5 on two different vehicles w/ little
problem.  The only problems were connections that were not properly tightened.  
I
don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get there.


Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO

Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:16:23 -0500
Subject: RE; Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:30:12 EST
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!


>  I don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get 
> there.
> 
Or immediately afterward....

Michael 

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:53:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 rear seats

those old tractor seats don't mate up very well, eh?

Well, if your car is for driving (ie. not concourse),
then this is what you want to do:

1) buy some very thick neoprene camper seal if you can
find it, about 3/8 to 1/2 in thick, and hopefully al
least 1/2" wide.  If you can't find it, just use the
standard inch to inch and a half wide camper seal (I
think it's 3/16" thick).

2) put the seal around the bottom of the back panel
area underneath where the seat will mate with the back
panel.

3) you may have to build it up a bit in front, if I
recall, because that's where the gap is the largest.

4) once it's all in, then get at it from the underside
and use prodigious amounts of silicone to seal the
gap.  The silicone should have no gaps in coverage,
otherwise your seats will corrode at the front lip.

That should do it.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
 
--- jbpate@attglobal.net wrote:
> Is there some sort of water tight seal (membrane)
> that goes under the
> rear seat pans to keep them watertight (ha-ha)? 
> Barry Pate 1967 BJ8

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:58:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Auction Report

Bob Denton

Keith Pennell wrote:

> Doug,
>
> True to form for the list, I will agree.  Have talked to 2 guys who have
> seen a 66? BJ8 for sale here in VA.  From their description it sounds like a
> $10k car.  Seller is wanting $15k.
>
> Keith Pennell
> "A car is always worth more to the seller than the buyer."
>
> BTW  I have for sale a 88 Bonneville.  205000 miles.  $1500
> See????  I told you so!!!!
>
> > Russ,
> >
> > I think you are right about unrealistic expectations on the part of many
> > sellers ...... another example are Healeys auctioned on Ebay - most do not
> > make the seller's reserve.....
> >
> > I'm also looking forward to the results at B-J ..... it will be
> interesting.
> >
> > Doug Ingram

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:05:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment

I have to second Greg's observation here.  I don't
think the problem is frame sagging or any such malady.
 The top is probably on too tight.  My dad intalled my
top for me 15 years ago... and although he did a
fantastic job chasing out all the wrinkles and such,
it is just a hair too tight and the bits don't line up
as a result.  The only solution is to loosen the back
rail and retack it a bit looser.  The downside it the
top won't look as nice and taught when up.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Greg Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi Ken,
>       In trying to weld the mounting bracket to the new
> wheel arch, I had the
> same problem with the side rails not lining up. What
> I found was the soft
> top was very tight, (probably shrunk over the last
> 25 years). When I took
> the old brittle rag off, the rails lined up. When I
> put the new top on I'll
> keep it just loose enough so this won't be an issue.
> Not too loose that the
> roof slaps me in the head while driving.
> 
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
> 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Freese, Ken
> >   To: 'healeys'
> >   Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:52 AM
> >   Subject: BJ7/BJ8 top alignment
> >
> >
> >   On many convertible tops, the side rails seem to
> droop a bit at
> > their rear
> >   edges resulting in a missmatch with the rear
> vertical rail.
> > consequently I
> >   get a little breeze staight into my ear. I don't
> see any adjustment that
> >   could affect this. Is it the accumulation of
> slop at worn hinge rivets?
> > Even
> >   on pictures of new cars, the alignment doesn't
> look perfect.
> >   Just another note. I took the windscreen apart
> yesterday and after
> > comparing
> >   the Moss glazing rubber with the original, I am
> going to use the 38 year
> > old
> >   original after a good cleaning!
> >   Thanks,
> >   Ken Freese
> >   65 BJ8

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 19:14:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

> I don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get there.

Tighten until it breaks, then back off a little.


;)

bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************

> Brian Collins wrote:
> 
> >  Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.
> >
> 
> My guess would be that the connections are not tight enough if it is seeping 
>"at
> every threaded coupling".  I did the Dot 5 on two different vehicles w/ little
> problem.  The only problems were connections that were not properly 
>tightened.  I
> don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get there.
> 
> 
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
> 
> Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:15:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Auction Report

Who said that a buyer was "stupid" for paying an amount he wanted to pay for
something he wanted to have?

Everyone "plays the game", but we can each make up our own rules. Right?

Doug Ingram

PS. I hope you enjoy the weekend, and please let us know the results.


----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; "List, Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Auction Report


> Ya know, it gets pretty damned tiring listening to you guys knocking the
prices
> of Healeys. What do you think make the value of cars (or anything) go up?
> Someone asks a higher and somebody else pays it. Keith, when you say it
"sounds"
> like a $10,000 car not $15,000, what does that mean? Are you the price
> determiner for the Healey world? You aren't, Gary isn't, Roger isn't. The
> selling price is determined by the willingness of a buyer to pay the
price,
> period. I am writing this from a hotel room in Scottsdale. I'm here for
Barrett
> Jackson. There are some gorgeous cars here that will set record prices I
just
> looked at a real GT40 with 41 miles on it. It could bring $100,000 over
the
> "normal" price of a GT40. Or maybe $200,000 more Is that buyer considered
> stupid? I don't think so. Don't knock the game if you can't play it.
>
> Bob Denton

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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:38:10 -0600
Subject: Moss Interiors

Win Graham
'63 BJ7

-- 
A film is never really good unless the camera 
is an eye in the head of a poet.
                        --Orson Welles

Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into 
the sting they give.
                        --Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________ 

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From Pamela Holmes/Joel Holmes <holmes at mcn.org>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:43:30 -0800
Subject: Re: BN6, BN7 body plugs

Joel Holmes
60 BT7
60 Morris Saloon
58 Morris Pick-Up
59 Morris Traveller

Eckert Josef,T5 wrote:

>Hi Michael,
>
>Just found time to check about the body plugs. They look identical to ones 
>used at Morris Minor Saloons to inspect rear axle (oil plug removal) from 
>inside the car.
>Those should be available at Morris Minor Parts dealers. You only need to 
>mention you want the "inspection hole plug for the rear axle".
>Hope I could help.
>Best wishes,

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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 05:58:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

I've been using silicone brake fluid in my Healey ever since I finished the 
braking system. The only problem I had was getting the air out.  All is well 
now, but I've only got 1600 miles on the car.  I used silicone in my '70 'Cuda 
convertible with no problem. 
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-


> I'm getting this bad feeling about having decided to do this car in Silicone
> Dot 5.  I thought I had the reservoir seepage stopped, so decided to start
> bleeding the system down.
> 
> Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.  Reminiscent of when
> I switched to synthetic gear oil in the final drive of my BMW bike.  Started
> leaking and never stopped until I replaced the final drive seal and went back
> to organic.
> 
> Every part of this system is brand new other than the brass or bronze junction
> blocks and the calipers.   New stainless lines from classic tubes  as well
> ($400)
> 
> Any body else been through this with silicone brake fluid?   I'm using the
> brand that Moss sells "Cartel"
> 
> Brian Collins

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:25:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Auction Report

http://www.klabin.com/klabin/agent_profiles/ronald_rader

"R.J. Denton" wrote:

>  I'm here for Barrett Jackson.
> Bob Denton
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:

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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:28:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

I have not tried the stainless lines. But knowing that stainless steel 
is quite hard, the flares may not seat properly thus not giving a tight 
connection.
>
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN

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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:58:27 -0000
Subject: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

I've been running a 100/6 block bored out to 3 litres for some 16 years now. 
The work was done before I bought the car but I understand that the trick is to 
slightly offset the bores - but don't ask me which way and by how much!

Note that the 3000 block was also strengthened in certain areas so if you are 
considering competition use, use a 3000 block as the starting point.

Regards

Paul

Longbridge BN4
--------------------Original message--------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 09:44:11 -0600
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
Subject: Fwd: 100-6 block bore to 3000 specs????

I have trying to post this email the past few days and have been having 
problems.  If this is a duplicate please disregard.

Thanks to all whom replied concerning the 3000 block search.  I have a new 
question.  I do have a really nice BN-4 block.  The question is, can I bore it 
to 3000 specs without breaking into the water jacket???  Tom at Fourintune says 
that it is cannot be done successfully, but I was wondering if anyone out there 
has evidence to the contrary. 
I could take it to my engine builder who for $60 will bore it out.  If he 
breaks into a water jacket on the first hole it will only be $10!!!!  Perhaps 
it is worth the risk and effort.  The block is just an eyesore in my garage 
anyway.  Any info on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 03:01:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors

There are big differences between something like a
Heritage interior and something like a Moss Interior. 


15 years ago everyone was absolutely psyched that
someone like Moss was finally offering original style
interiors since you couldn't even find silvered piping
for the BJ8s for the longest time.

Then someone like Heritage comes along and ratchets it
up a notch, providing interiors that are super nice,
but honestly much nicer than those that were provided
with the cars when new.

The Moss interiors are fine, well put together and
although not perfect by any means, will give you a
result equivalent or (depending on how good you are at
installing the stuff) slightly better than original.

Everyone knows that I'm not exactly a big fan of Moss,
but their interiors are fine.  

If, however, you are looking for the full on "Rodeo"
drive quality leather interior that will last the life
of your car... well then Heritage is the way to go.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Win Graham <win@gmi.net> wrote:
> Anyone want to give me some advice about Moss
> interiors?  I have heard a 
> lot about Heritage but not much about Moss.  I hear
> Heritage is better 
> but is it really worth the extra money (especially
> with the sale Moss 
> has now.)  What kind of quality does Moss have?
> 
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
> 
> -- 
> A film is never really good unless the camera 
> is an eye in the head of a poet.
>                         --Orson Welles
> 
> Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
> Like bees, they must put their lives into 
> the sting they give.
>                         --Ralph Waldo Emerson

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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 06:12:23 EST
Subject: DAY THE EXHAUST NOTE DIED

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 06:56:18 -0600
Subject: Noisy Rear End

Don
BN7 (and it isn't even Friday)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:36:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors

So IMHO, you can get good quality stuff from the big suppliers, but from
what I hear, If you want the best, go to Heritage, which is my plan for my
BN2 project.

Jim



 Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:38 PM
Subject: Moss Interiors


> Anyone want to give me some advice about Moss interiors?  I have heard a
> lot about Heritage but not much about Moss.  I hear Heritage is better
> but is it really worth the extra money (especially with the sale Moss
> has now.)  What kind of quality does Moss have?
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
>
> --
> A film is never really good unless the camera
> is an eye in the head of a poet.
>                         --Orson Welles
>
> Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
> Like bees, they must put their lives into
> the sting they give.
>                         --Ralph Waldo Emerson
> ______________________________________________________

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:06:40 +0300
Subject: Re: Noisy Rear End

HoYo ----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 3:56 PM
Subject: Noisy Rear End


> I saw something advertised on TV yesterday that was guaranteed to stop
noisy rear ends.  It's called "BEANO".
>
> Don
> BN7 (and it isn't even Friday)
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take
our breath away"

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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com] 
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 07:34:40 -0700
Subject: BJ8 Trans main seals

Still looking here in Idaho for a good used toyota trans at a decent
price... in my quest to continue I am installing my original BJ8 trans and
decided to put new front and rear main seals in.  Anything I should know?

1. Take off the bell housing and install the new front seal..

2. take off the rear flange to the drive shaft (hopefully easy with a wheel
puller) pry out the old seal and install the new one?  Correct?  and thanks.

Jim Sailer..

66 BJ8...  On her own wheels again.

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:16:00 +0300
Subject: DAY THE EXHAUST NOTE DIED


> TODAY'S THE DAY DONALD WENT AWAY.....TAKE YOUR CAR FOR A DRIVE IF YOU'VE
G0T
> ONE RUNNING.........SCOTTY

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:54:50 -0800
Subject: oil filters to trade

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 12:10:50 EST
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors

<< 
Everyone knows that I'm not exactly a big fan of Moss,
but their interiors are fine.  

If, however, you are looking for the full on "Rodeo"
drive quality leather interior that will last the life
of your car... well then Heritage is the way to go. >>

Both companies advertise with us. That having been said, from years of 
looking at freshly-restored cars, I'd say that the most important aspect of 
the interior is the proper installation of the seat upholstery. I've rarely 
seen a garage job that was done right, and even some professional 
installations of someone else's kit doesn't alway work -- four important 
things to get right: (1) the piping on the edge of the seat back should 
exactly follow the edge of the seat back -- which means carefully making sure 
the inner edges of the piping go behind the metal and the seat back is 
carefully rolled down from there. (2) new seat and back cushions are used, 
contoured as necessary from the "one size fits all" to match the contours of 
the original pads, (3) the centers of the seat and back upholstery are 
carefully glued down to the cushions to give the proper contours for the 
seats (4) the seat bottom upholstery is not pulled down too tightly (which if 
done causes the center of the seat to bulge up and look like an old whore 
stuffed into a tight girdle.  

With exceptional care, this can be done by an individual with no previous 
training, but generally is best left to the professionals.

Bottom line -- you'll get the best looking seats and consequently the best 
looking interior if you send your seat pans to the upholsterer and have them 
install the new cushions and upholstery.

Cheers
Gary

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:44:05 +0300
Subject: Re: Help!! Its leaking everywhere!


> WRT:
>
> > I don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get
there.
>
> Tighten until it breaks, then back off a little.
>
>
> ;)
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
> > Brian Collins wrote:
> >
> > >  Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.
> > >
> >
> > My guess would be that the connections are not tight enough if it is
seeping "at
> > every threaded coupling".  I did the Dot 5 on two different vehicles w/
little
> > problem.  The only problems were connections that were not properly
tightened.  I
> > don't know where too tight is, however.  You'll know it when you get
there.
> >
> >
> > Larry Dickstein
> > Lone Jack, MO
> >
> > Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:08:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Differential noise

Basically, your mechanic is correct.  Once a ring/pinion set has been run
for any time slightly out of spec, even if the diff set-up is redone, the
wear pattern on the gear teeth is there, and it will probably (but not
necessarily!) still be noisy.  Healey diffs are very beefy and they'll run a
huge number of miles without problems (with correct maintenance - oil
changes), but they do wear.  It could simply be a matter of your diff
getting a bit tired.

One thing you can do yourself is to check that the pinion preload shims
haven't started to break up - a good many Healey diffs that I have worked on
have had this happen.

To do this, disconnect the prop shaft at the rear and block it up out of the
way (mark it's position on the flange first), drain the diff oil, undo the
pinion nut (you'll probably need a air impact gun to do this), remove the
driving flange (should slide off fairly readily, but you may need a puller),
lever out the pinion seal, pull the rear bearing off the shaft, and you'll
see the shims - quite often, the thin one is breaking up.

Since you are planning to re-do the diff in the near future, if the shims
are okay, simply re-install the whole thing (with a new oil seal, of course)
and torque the nut to 140 ft/lb against the emergency brake.  This is
important because it will preload the pinion bearings to somewhere near
spec.

If the thin shim is broken up, try to establish it's thickness and source a
replacement that is the same. I believe that the shim size is the same as
the mini front wheel bearing shim, if that will help.

This procedure should be considered to be a relatively temporary one - the
proper preload setting procedure would normally require the diff pod to be
on the bench and the centre section removed, as per the workshop manual.

The only other thing to try would be to switch to a heavier diff lube -
Quaker State makes an an 80/140 specifically for use in noisier diffs - I'm
running it it one of my Healeys - seems to reduce the noise a bit untill
it's fully warmed up, then there isn't much difference.  I guess the moral
is no lube is going to make up for tired parts.

If you decide not to wait for the next batch of Lempert gearsets, I still
have two original 3:545 complete diff pods for sale.  Haven't been able to
find any more, although I've been looking!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 2:26 PM
Subject: Differential noise


Need some of your expert advice,

On my BN2 there is quite a bit of differential gear whine on coast. It
is quiet on cruise & acceleration. My first thought was that the
traditional problem of too much ring & pinion backlash was the culprit &
that resetting the clearances would solve the problem.

I asked the local foreign car garage expert, who claims to have worked
on Healeys, about resetting the ring & pinion mesh & he said that he had
never been successful in quieting noisy gears this way. The only thing
that he would consider was starting over with new ring & pinion gears,
new carrier bearings, & new pinion bearings.

I don't really want to get a new standard ring & pinion at this time. I
am waiting for a new 3.54 Lempert gear set from the next run, which may
take some time to get. In the mean time, I would really like to get my
existing gears quieted if possible.

What has been your experience with resetting the adjustments to
eliminate gear whine? Is the mechanic correct?

Thanks for the help,

Dave Russell
BN2

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 11:37:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Help!!    Its leaking everywhere!

Sorry you're having hassles!

There's no signifigance to the brand of silicone fluid - most of it is
're-pack' - it all comes from Dow Corning, as far as I know.

The silcone fluid isn't anymore prone to leaks than the glycol fluids, it's
just a bit trickier to bleed.  FWIW, everyone that I know who has replaced
brake pipes in a Healey has had the same initial problems.  It's a matter of
tracking down each leak and fixing it.

I would be awfully suspicious of the flares on the new pipe set.  You need
to closely compare the flares to the old pipes to be sure that they are
exactly the same. The flare nuts have to be tight, but not overly tight to
seal.  Rolands advice in his post is right on, all the way.  There are both
single flares and double flares in a Healey hydraulic system (can't remember
exactly where each type is).

I will continue to try and pin down my friend here to ascertain the
reservoir assembly sequence for you.  With the 'Dowty' washers, I doubt that
you've got reservoir leaks, it's probably the flare fittings.

Ain't it fun!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:40 PM
Subject: Help!! Its leaking everywhere!


I'm getting this bad feeling about having decided to do this car in Silicone
Dot 5.  I thought I had the reservoir seepage stopped, so decided to start
bleeding the system down.

Looks like I now have a leak at every threaded coupling.  Reminiscent of
when
I switched to synthetic gear oil in the final drive of my BMW bike.  Started
leaking and never stopped until I replaced the final drive seal and went
back
to organic.

Every part of this system is brand new other than the brass or bronze
junction
blocks and the calipers.   New stainless lines from classic tubes  as well
($400)

Any body else been through this with silicone brake fluid?   I'm using the
brand that Moss sells "Cartel"

Brian Collins

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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:48:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Differential noise

I have been watching this thread and agree with Earl and others about the
physical condition of your differential.  However until your Lempert 3.5
shows up I offer from Penrite Oil a Heavy duty hypoid 85W/140 axle oil that
will help reduce the noise and still lubricate and flow at low temps.

Let me know if I can help or send a brochure packet for your information
about the correct lubricants for your Healey.

Thanks and God Bless
Jon

Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx,  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes

At 03:26 PM 1/14/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Need some of your expert advice,
>
>On my BN2 there is quite a bit of differential gear whine on coast. It
>is quiet on cruise & acceleration. My first thought was that the
>traditional problem of too much ring & pinion backlash was the culprit &
>that resetting the clearances would solve the problem.
>
>I asked the local foreign car garage expert, who claims to have worked
>on Healeys, about resetting the ring & pinion mesh & he said that he had
>never been successful in quieting noisy gears this way. The only thing
>that he would consider was starting over with new ring & pinion gears,
>new carrier bearings, & new pinion bearings.
>
>I don't really want to get a new standard ring & pinion at this time. I
>am waiting for a new 3.54 Lempert gear set from the next run, which may
>take some time to get. In the mean time, I would really like to get my
>existing gears quieted if possible.
>
>What has been your experience with resetting the adjustments to
>eliminate gear whine? Is the mechanic correct?
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 12:08:10 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Trans main seals

Only thing I can add is to seal the threads of the bell-house-to-gearbox
case bolts when you re-assemble it - the holes in the case are 'wet' - the
oil can seep into the bellhouse along the threads.

Also, be real careful that the layshaft doesn't move forward in the trans
case while the bellhouse is off - if it moves forward enough to drop the
rear thrust washer and/or plate inside, you'll wind up having to take the
whole shebang apart to get it right!  Make sure that the crescent shaped
'tang' on the front of the layshaft is lined up with the 'slot' in the
bellhouse on re-assembly, as well.

Take note of the flat and spring washers that are the front trans bearing
spacers - they are in a recess in the bellhouse as you pull it off - make
sure they go back in the right place, and don't get 'pinched'!

You'll almost certainly need an air impact gun to remove the flange nut at
the rear of the overdrive, otherwise, that part is pretty straight forward.
You may need a puller, but I doubt it - the driving flange usually slides
right off with a couple of taps.

Not so simple, but not a real big deal either, if you know.  Unless you're
trans/od unit has real major oil leaks, I've got to wonder if it's really
worth it, if you'll be removing it as soon as you find a Toyota trans.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8 Toyota 5-speed

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Sailer" <heliskier@direcway.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 6:34 AM
Subject: BJ8 Trans main seals


Hi folks..

Still looking here in Idaho for a good used toyota trans at a decent
price... in my quest to continue I am installing my original BJ8 trans and
decided to put new front and rear main seals in.  Anything I should know?

1. Take off the bell housing and install the new front seal..

2. take off the rear flange to the drive shaft (hopefully easy with a wheel
puller) pry out the old seal and install the new one?  Correct?  and thanks.

Jim Sailer..

66 BJ8...  On her own wheels again.

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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:15:04 -0800
Subject: Fw: Test in the West Fan Opportunity

Kirk Kvam


----- Original Message -----
From: <ticketoffice@californiaspeedway.com>
To: <62bt7@prodigy.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 7:05 AM
Subject: Test in the West Fan Opportunity


> Some important news from California Speedway!
>
> TEST IN THE WEST - Fans Welcome on February 4th
>
> The second annual Indy Racing League IndyCar Series Test in the West will
be conducted at California Speedway on Tuesday, February 4th. The IRL
IndyCar teams will be testing for the upcoming 2003 season.
>
> Here is your chance to get up close and personal with the drivers,
including Indianapolis 500 winners Al Unser Jr., Eddie Cheever, Kenny Brack,
Helio Castroneves and Buddy Lazier. The test will be open to the public
until the end of on-track activity that day (approximately 4 p.m.) with an
autograph session closing the day's festivities. All fans will be admitted
to watch the test from on top of the pit road terrace suites free of charge.
>
> KFRG 95.1 FM will be on site doing a radio remote and giveaways.
>
> TICKETS ON SALE
>
> Tickets for your favorite California Speedway motorsports events are on
sale at www.californiaspeedway.com or by calling 1-800-944-RACE (7223).
Tickets are also on sale at the speedway's ticket office at 9300 Cherry
Avenue in Fontana or at the speedway display, which travels throughout
Southern California. The opening event of 2003, the Yamaha Superbike
Challenge, is fast approaching. This early April two-wheel spectacular
features the world's top riders covering California Speedway's 2.3-mile,
21-turn road circuit. Later in April is the ultra-popular NASCAR weekend.
Local driver Jimmie Johnson (El Cajon) won last year's 500-mile test en
route to a spectacular rookie campaign.
>
> Get your tickets early. Don't be shut out from the great racing action at
California Speedway.
>
> STREET LEGAL DRAG RACING - 2003 Schedule!
>
> The following dates are the 2003 NHRA Street Legal Dates at California
Speedway, home of the quarter-mile California Dragway. This year's schedule
includes Summer Night Drag Racing (subject to San Bernardino County
approval).
>
> WINTER DAY RACING - Tech opens at 7:00 a.m.
> January 25 (closed on Jan. 26)
> February 15-16
> March 8-9
> March 22-23
>
> *SUMMER NIGHT RACING - Tech opens at 3:00 p.m. and all racing will
conclude at 11:00 p.m.
> May 10
> May 31
> June 14
> July 12
> July 19
> July 26
> August 2
> August 9
> August 16
> August 23
> August 30
> *Subject to San Bernardino County Approval
>
> The cost to enter the speedway for racers and spectators is $10. The cost
to participate is $10 for a Tech Card. A complete set of rules is available
on www.californiaspeedway.com.
>
> California Speedway 5000 Run/Walk - February 9th
> It's not too late to sign up for this unique run/walk (3.1 miles) to raise
money for the California Highway Patrol 11-99 Foundation and the CHP
Explorers Program. The course starts on pit road and utilizes part of the
two-mile oval and infield road course, finishing at the start/finish line on
the frontstretch. The race begins at 7:30 a.m. sharp. To register online, go
to www.californiaspeedway.com or call 909-399-3553.
>
> We look forward to seeing you at California Speedway in 2003!
>
> This communication was sent to your e-mail address because you joined a
mailing list at CaliforniaSpeedway.com. If you would like to no longer
receive Members Only offers from California Speedway please click on the
following link and you will be removed from future mailings:
>
http://dbserver.iscmotorsports.com/CaliforniaSpeedway/index.cfm?Destination=
Members%2FUserEmailListRemove%2Ecfm%3FUserID%3D62bt7

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From "Tom and Sharon Shirley" <cobratom at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 16:42:19 -0500
Subject: Fw: Test in the West Fan Opportunity

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2400352691&rd=1

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From "Tom and Sharon Shirley" <cobratom at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 16:45:23 -0500
Subject: For Sale: 1960 Austin Healey Sprite Vintage Race Car

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2400352691&rd=1

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 17:01:01 EST
Subject: Upholestery tips

The installation tips are really appreciated. I have my Heritage kit spread 
out all over the bedroom in preparation to begin. I would like to hear from 
anyone else who has any information they care to impart. I have the Moss 
video but it is for a BJ8 not a BT7. 

Price

60 BT7

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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>; "Brian Collins"
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 14:11:45 -0800
Subject: towing -  THANKS

I've been offline over the holidays but I wanted to thank the list for
all the advice on towing my newly purchased 1960 BN7 from Fresno, CA to
Venice, CA.  It was a short trip relative to some the stories I received
and luckily a successful one.  This is the second Healey I have
purchased this year as the first was stolen back in August. (Yes, I THAT
guy).  Hopefully, I won't NEED to purchase another.

Thanks again and best wishes in the new year!

Mark
Venice,CA
60 BN7

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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 17:46:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors


> Win,
> I work on the side restoring Healeys to as correct as possible and by now
> have done quite a few. I have to say that
> it'll be worth the difference, especially on your BJ7. I don't want to
sound
> like a stuck record, but the old story of "you only get what you pay for"
> really holds true here. And you'll be reminded of it every time you look
at
> your car.
> Heritage's materials, grains, colours, attention to detail and fit far
> surpass anything I've ever experienced from Moss.
> I would suggest you send your seats in to Heritage for assembly and build
> up. It's a tricky process that we amateurs are really not able to handle
the
> job nearly as well as these lifetime tradespeople. Also I usually send
them
> the parcel tray and rear seats to trim. They will quote you the exact
costs
> and will stick to them to the penny.
> Heritage's carpets and underlays, fastener kits, dash edging pieces, door
> threshold pipings, the list goes on. Moss doesn't really have the same
> knowledge about the Healeys to get all the little details and fit right.
> Rich Chrysler (no involvement, just very happy, again and again with
> Heritage)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
> To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 11:38 PM
> Subject: Moss Interiors
>
>
> > Anyone want to give me some advice about Moss interiors?  I have heard a
> > lot about Heritage but not much about Moss.  I hear Heritage is better
> > but is it really worth the extra money (especially with the sale Moss
> > has now.)  What kind of quality does Moss have?
> >
> > Win Graham
> > '63 BJ7

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from various sources. So far today I have received 15 infected e-mails.
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 23:04:05 -0000
Subject: New Virus information

I had a meeting yesterday with Symantec (Norton Antivirus) who have just
upgraded the status of this virus and have released a fix to remove it should
you be infected. See www.symantec.com

The attached link will give you more details for those who are interested.

http://www.eweek.com/article2/0,3959,826314,00.asp

Please ensure that all Antivirus applications are updated.

Kindest regards

Tom

Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk

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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 18:46:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors

>
>   (4) the seat bottom upholstery is not pulled down too tightly (which if
> done causes the center of the seat to bulge up and look like an old whore
> stuffed into a tight girdle.

This looks like the beginning of a new and very interesting thread. Any words of
wisdom for the rest of us?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO

Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 19:52:46 -0500
Subject: Potential Scam Warning

Here's a scam that I feel all of you need to be aware of......

My boss has been trying to sell his son's Pontiac Fiero through the local
newspaper and regional photo ad magazine for several months.  He wasn't
getting anywhere with those two sources, so he decided to place an ad with a
Fiero club in the Detroit area that has a classified section on their web
site.  He recently received an e-mail message from a person in Africa who
wanted to buy the car, and then have it transported to himself in Africa.  The
prospective buyer then told him that he had an associate that he does business
with in the United States who owes him $6000.  His plan was to have his
associate send my boss a money order in the amount of $6000 that he could
deposit immediately.  Soon after that he would send someone to pick the car
up.  At that time, my boss would hand him a check for $2500, and was told to
keep $500 for his troubles.  Instead of $3000, he would now have $3500.  Sound
good so far?

Meanwhile, the person would have the car and the $2500 check.  Within a
month's time the certified check would bounce, the car would end up at a hack
shop somewhere, and my boss would be a very sad man without the car, and the
$2500.  A certified or bank check can take up to a month to clear, or if it
doesn't the bank will come looking for you.  But by then it will be too late.
Fortunately my boss was smart enough to catch on, but I hate to think of how
many people get the wrong end of the deal with this scam.

So far I haven't heard stories like this among British car owners, but you do
need to use extreme caution when dealing with the unknown.

Just something to share with my British car friends,

Thanks,

Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html

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From John Paterson <jp at giveanything.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:02:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Potential Scam Warning

Um, not quite. You always need to be careful when excepting any form
of payment but...

All certified checks issued by any US bank (or foreign bank with a US
clearing bank) ALWAYS clear within 2 business days. No exceptions ever
or under any circumstances.

If you have concerns that a cashiers check may be fraudulant, it is a
simple matter to contact the issuing bank and verify the authenticity
of the check. You can even ask your bank to do this upon deposit and
clear the funds to you immediately.

JP

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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 02:27:13 +0000
Subject: Re: Upholestery tips


> Gary,
> 
> The installation tips are really appreciated. I have my Heritage kit spread 
> out all over the bedroom in preparation to begin. I would like to hear from 
> anyone else who has any information they care to impart. I have the Moss 
> video but it is for a BJ8 not a BT7. 
> 
> Price
> 
> 60 BT7

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 19:10:23 -0800
Subject: Fw: Moss Interiors

Gary, your comment implies that you know something about 'old whores in
tight girdles' - should we be going there - I think not.  Might have to have
a talk with Genie on this one!

Cheers,

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
(neither of whose seats have 'tight girdle syndrome')

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: Moss Interiors


Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

>
>   (4) the seat bottom upholstery is not pulled down too tightly (which if
> done causes the center of the seat to bulge up and look like an old whore
> stuffed into a tight girdle.

This looks like the beginning of a new and very interesting thread. Any
words of
wisdom for the rest of us?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO

Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From "Pete Ryner" <pryner at interfold.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:27:34 -0700
Subject: Healey parts needed

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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:44:49 EST
Subject: Motor mounts

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:15:51 -0800
Subject: RE: DAY THE EXHAUST NOTE DIED

As a once popular song said:"Hey now ,hey now ,don't dream it's over!"
Cheers Donald! May your heaven be filled with interesting machinery!!
                                                                   HoYo
p.s. those who can't drive their Healeys should at least hoist a pint!!

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 20:26:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey parts needed

Interested?   Not trying to get rich on this, just make me an offer +
shipping.

John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@interfold.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 7:27 PM
Subject: Healey parts needed


> I am in need of a center console for a '66 BJ8.  I need everything from
the
> radio support rear.  Obviously the condition of the covering is not an
issue
> as I will recover to match new interior.
> Thanks in advance
> Pete

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From Lwt62bt7 at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 23:46:48 EST
Subject: Healey for sale

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 06:56:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Motor mounts

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of EJBJR935@aol.com
Sent: 15-Jan-03 10:45 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Motor mounts

<PRE>I was cleaning my motor mounts for a 66 BJ8  and found that they
are marked 
LH and RH. I couldn't see any difference between the two. What did I
miss? 
Just curious. EJB

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From Dave & Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:14:10 -0500
Subject: Mike Lempert

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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:12:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Potential Scam

>>>I must admit I'm cornfused about one thing. Where I come from, a certified 
>check is certified because the bank issuing it received the cash up front and 
>therefore the issuing agent (read bank) "certified"  it would go through. When 
>I buy a money order, I usually have to pay cash for it up front also. Am I 
>wrong?<<<

>>>Doesn't sound right to me. Anytime I got a certified check or a money
order I had to give the bank or post office the money up front -- cash.
The certified check they gave me was drawn on the bank or post office
not on me. Not sure I understand how a certified bank check or money
order can bounce. What's the point of them if they can bounce? Maybe it
can...<<<

Hi again,

If you have the funds wired from one bank to another (Western Union), you're 
okay, but a paper check can be fraudulent.  It's just like anything else, do 
your homework.  

If you have questions about this scam, go to:

http://www.wired.com/news/culture/0,1284,56829,00.html

Thanks,

Scott Helms 
a.k.a. Austrheamgafun@arczip.com

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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 08:58:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Check/Fill Shock Absorber Fluid

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:09:03 -0600
Subject: Potential Scam

That's like the old pigeon drop that was popular a few years back, but done 
electronically.

A scam that makes far more money every day right here in America is the chain 
letter and pyramid schemes such as AMWA* and others.

Don
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:53:36 -0700
Subject: shroud removal

Thanks,
Fred

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From "Allen S. Hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:57:30 -0600
Subject: upholstery kits for BJ8

Al
HBJ8L35791

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From Lwt62bt7 at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 15:27:46 EST
Subject: 62BT7 for sale

[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/zip which had a name 
of sadhealey.ZIP]

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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 13:17:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Grose-Jet fuel bowl valve



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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:21:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Check/Fill Shock Absorber Fluid

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:26:17 -0600
Subject: Re: shroud removal

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:28:39 -0800
Subject: BJ8 seat cushion

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:32:31 -0600
Subject: Re: upholstery kits for BJ8

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:07:13 -0500
Subject: Re: shroud removal

Basically, drill out any rivets you find and unscrew any screws or bolts you
find!

The rear shroud has machine screws along the top of the trunk opening, 5 I
think, with the washers and nuts inside the cockpit.There might also be a
couple where it meets the door top.  The rest is 4-5 pop rivets along the
top of each side and many flat head rivets at the bottom of the trunk
opening and on the underside where the shroud flange meets the trunk floor.
There are around 13 along each of those places.

The front shroud has four bolts attaching its lower lip to the flange on the
main frame rails and maybe 5 machine screws along the back of the hood
opening.  Oh yea, and 3 machine screws along the front of the hood opening.
Drill out the 3 or so pop rivets into the scuttle on each side.  Then there
are the 2 machine screws on each side which attach the shroud to the bracket
on top of the fender well.

And one very important thing.  If the front shroud has never been removed
there is an adhesive material, sort of like windshield sealer, under the
shroud and on top of the scuttle.  This seal can be a real bear to separate.
Use gentle persuasion but careful too as the shroud will distor/bend
easily!!!

That is all I can think of.- I am sure I missed something.

Keith Pennell

> Hi all,
> does anyone have a standard operating procedure (SOP) for removing
> the front and rear shrouds.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:32:28 -0700
Subject: Thank you - was differential noise

Thanks; Bill W, Bob W, Jon M, Dave P, Charley B, & Earl K.

To Don Y & HoYo; I considered trying the Beano but couldn't decide
whether to put it in the differential or in the gas tank, the tank seems
to be the logical place. Has anyone else tried Beano for this application?

Thanks again,

Dave Russell
BN2

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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:32:54 EST
Subject: Re: Grose-Jet fuel bowl valve

In the past I have used Gross jets, however the last ones I used on Zenith 
carbs were not the quality as in the past. Would not seat and stop the flow 
of fuel. I went back to the regular needle and seat and had no more problems.

Jerry Anderson
BN4
JH-5

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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 18:41:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Grose-Jet fuel bowl valve

I have had Grose Jets in both my cars for 15 or 16 years and have never 
changed them!!
Install with the correct # of fiber washers (2, I think for my 
application), set the float height and forget them!

I did hear that they had some problems with the size of the ball 
bearings for a while; under new management (?????).  Someone can clarify.

I like them.  No personal interest....etc.

Regards,

Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA
 

Jorge Garcia wrote:

>Hi,
>A couple of weeks ago I wrote about the problems I was
>having with the flooding fuel bowls on my 1965 BJ8. I
>replaced the needle valves and seats with Grose-Jets
>and installed them last night. Well no more flooding
>but I can't get the car to start. It sound like it
>wants to start but no go.
>Also the Grose-Jets are shorter than the needle valves
>and seats I replaced so I had to re-adjust the float
>lever to get them to the 7/16" clearance.
>Has anyone used the Grose Jets? Please let me know how
>they worked out for you.
>Thanks
>Jorge
>1965 BJ8

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:05:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose-Jet fuel bowl valve

Someone said that there were some new grose jets being
sold now that don't meet the qualith standards that
older ones did.  

Tom
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> A couple of weeks ago I wrote about the problems I
> was
> having with the flooding fuel bowls on my 1965 BJ8.
> I
> replaced the needle valves and seats with Grose-Jets
> and installed them last night. Well no more flooding
> but I can't get the car to start. It sound like it
> wants to start but no go.
> Also the Grose-Jets are shorter than the needle
> valves
> and seats I replaced so I had to re-adjust the float
> lever to get them to the 7/16" clearance.
> Has anyone used the Grose Jets? Please let me know
> how
> they worked out for you.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> 1965 BJ8
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:33:53 EST
Subject: Re: upholstery kits for BJ8

<< the long strips are to cover the lower outside metal frame upon which the 
seat bottom rests.
Allen S. Hodder wrote: >>

Glue from the bottom up so that the strip wraps over the top edge and the 
edge comes down just to the bottom of the L. I don't know if there's any 
rule, but you probably want to start from the inside edge towards the back, 
so the ends don't show from the front, outside, or rear.
Cheers
gary

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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 21:48:45 -0500
Subject: Looking for adnan merchant

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:09:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: upholstery kits for BJ8

Buy the video, it is worth the money.  It will be very
difficult to figure it all out without the video. 
Without the video, you will also get a pretty second
rate installation - be careful!  Trust me, I'm not
exactly a fan of Moss, but that video is worth every
penny.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- "Allen S. Hodder" <ash173@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> I bought the Moss upholstery kits for front seats,
> rear seats, armrest and
> panel, plus seat foam sets. In the vinyl front seat
> kit, there were 2 backs, 2
> bottoms, 4 covers for the ends of the backs where
> they pivot. There was also 2
> pieces of vinyl 6 feet long and 2 inches wide. What
> is the application for
> those pieces. It seems like enough material for me
> to hang myself if things
> don't work out. They sent me 2 L/H bottom seat
> foams. Any one tackled this job
> without buying the installation video? I'll take the
> rest of the day off and
> drink beer, until someone comes thru with an answer.
> 
> Al
> HBJ8L35791

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:16:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Grose-Jet fuel bowl valve

I have both old Grose Jets (15 years old) and new
Grose Jets (2 years old).

My old grose Jets work perfectly and I have never had
any problems with them.

I recently bought some new grose jets and they had the
exact same problem you are talking about - they tended
to jam shut and no gas would get into the carburettor.
 The only way to get them to unseat was to blow back
pressure into the fuel lines.  

I have paper fuel filters on the fuel line, so I know
that it wasn't crud getting into the system and
clogging things up.  

It was in fact that the new Grose Jets were improperly
manufactured and subsequently did not work correctly. 
I would throw your grose jets away and go back to the
needle valves.

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> A couple of weeks ago I wrote about the problems I
> was
> having with the flooding fuel bowls on my 1965 BJ8.
> I
> replaced the needle valves and seats with Grose-Jets
> and installed them last night. Well no more flooding
> but I can't get the car to start. It sound like it
> wants to start but no go.
> Also the Grose-Jets are shorter than the needle
> valves
> and seats I replaced so I had to re-adjust the float
> lever to get them to the 7/16" clearance.
> Has anyone used the Grose Jets? Please let me know
> how
> they worked out for you.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> 1965 BJ8
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:46:46 -0800
Subject: RE: upholstery kits for BJ8


Subject: Re: upholstery kits for BJ8


Allen -

Buy the video, it is worth the money.

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:33:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Thank you - was differential noise

And you say you don't have a sense of humour?  Tried Beano one time at the
insistence of one of my daughters - didn't work!  Or it really worked,
depending upon one's viewpoint.  And I really did follow instructions - ate
it instead of putting it in the gas tank.  Gotta watch them damn burritos!

What say you HoYo?

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2003 4:32 PM
Subject: Thank you - was differential noise


I want to express my sincere thank you to those who replied to my
question about a noisy differential. The consensus was that adjustment
would probably not improve things & that new gears would be best. I have
found a good used center section with 3.54 ratio & will install it in
lieu of waiting for the Lempert gear set.

Thanks; Bill W, Bob W, Jon M, Dave P, Charley B, & Earl K.

To Don Y & HoYo; I considered trying the Beano but couldn't decide
whether to put it in the differential or in the gas tank, the tank seems
to be the logical place. Has anyone else tried Beano for this application?

Thanks again,

Dave Russell
BN2

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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 23:34:47 EST
Subject: Re: Gear choices, was Differential noise

I'm relatively new to the group, and I see quite a bit of interest in the 
3.545 diffs. I'm wondering why? My philosophy being more along the following 
lines:

(a) In a 40+ year old car, I'm not really eager to go REALLY fast, but, I do 
want it to be QUICK, as in a 4.10 gearset.
(b)  With the 3.545, you will run out of power ("nastyboys" excluded) LONG 
before you run out of revs, 4th OD being good for 150 mph.
(c)  Yes, the gas mileage would be a bit better, but the amount of miles I'll 
put on my Healey won't be sufficient to make that an issue.
(d)  With a noisy gearbox, the 4.10 just makes it that much easier to 
minimize use of 1st gear.

Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556 (One owner since new, to be back on the road in 2003!)

PS: Any listers going to the Dixon (CA) British car show this May 18th?

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 23:30:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Gear choices, was Differential noise

I can't speak for other people reasons but will give you mine.

A 4.11 ratio makes first gear so low as to make it not very usable. My
BN2 with a 4.11 & original size tires, has an excess of torque in first
gear & will burn the tires way more than necessary. The car only has
about 550 lbs of weight on each rear tire. Why have a four speed if only
three speeds are usable. The 3.54 makes first gear more usable for every
day driving, noisy or not. If I were drag racing & had large high
traction tires I would agree with you. "Quick" is a relative term, I had
a V8 powered BN2 once. Stock Healeys are not quick by any definition of
modern cars.

True, that with a 3.54, at the top end in OD the car is over geared &
will not pull top speed. A simple shift back to direct fourth will allow
the engine to pull top speed, e.g. about 5700 rpm at 120 mph. With the
3.54 ratio you can always shift down a gear to regain the optimum ratio
except when starting in first gear which I already addressed. I know,
the stock BN2 is redlined below 5000 rpm, not all are stock. 

The real advantage of a 3.54 ratio, to me, is reduced wear & tear on the
drive train, & less vibration & noise at 60 to 70 mph cruising. Gas
mileage improvement is not an issue for me. 

All a matter of preference & how the engine is set up I guess.

Regards,

Dave Russell
BN2


RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I'm relatively new to the group, and I see quite a bit of interest in the
> 3.545 diffs. I'm wondering why? My philosophy being more along the following
> lines:
> 
> (a) In a 40+ year old car, I'm not really eager to go REALLY fast, but, I do
> want it to be QUICK, as in a 4.10 gearset.
> (b)  With the 3.545, you will run out of power ("nastyboys" excluded) LONG
> before you run out of revs, 4th OD being good for 150 mph.
> (c)  Yes, the gas mileage would be a bit better, but the amount of miles I'll
> put on my Healey won't be sufficient to make that an issue.
> (d)  With a noisy gearbox, the 4.10 just makes it that much easier to
> minimize use of 1st gear.
> 
> Dick Hosmer
> 62BT7L18556 (One owner since new, to be back on the road in 2003!)

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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 00:45:57 -0800
Subject: the sound of tires (long)

Thanks Donald,  Thanks for the car and the experience.

Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA

55 BN-1

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 02:05:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

This last Christmas I was back in California driving
my BN1 around, and I had to laugh at all the massive
SUVs jockying for parking spaces at the local
Supermarket.  

All the SUVs were way too large, filled up the parking
spaces to the max, the moms and kids didn't have
enough room to open their doors and get out of the
SUV, and they all had to execute three and four point
turns to simply pull into the standard offset-angle
parking space.  Explain to me exactly how macho-cool
is that? 

A huge gas-sucking SUV that only soccer moms drive and
serves only to line the pockets of thankless Saudis
dripping with the money they make every time you fill
up at the pump?  hmmm...

Not exactly macho and most definitely un-American
despite the popular misconceptions about owning an
SUV.

Maybe a few less SUVs would cut down on traffic
congestion, reduce road noise and air pollution in the
process!

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8


--- Rob Westcott <westcotc@earthlink.net> wrote:
>        Its been three weeks since the BN-1 followed me
> home  and I have been
> driving it as often as possible when the Pacific NW
> weather permits .
>       Yesterday was one of those life experiences that I
> was not prepared
> for.  I had to make a run to Seattle from my home in
> Bellevue and
> thought it would be a good chance to warm up the oil
> and air out the cobwebs.
>       This  event would normally be  avoided at all costs
> as it would be in
> rush hour traffic, both ways,  but what the heck, 
> the Sun was out and
> it looked like Healey weather.
>       Everything started out beautifully, sweeping along
> the connector
> curving from East to West and joining up with I-405
> North.  I love the
> fantastic visibility with the top down.  All of your
> senses are
> heightened, the rumble of the exhaust, the smells of
> the leather and
> engine, the feel of the road, the front row view of 
> all that surrounds
> you.   You seem connected to the Earth .  All 4
> corners are easy to see
> and it was fun to sneak into  slot between the
> rushing traffic as I
> joined the flow North.   Lights on,  lots of buffer
> space around, up to
> speed easily, playing with 2nd and 3rd overdrive.  
>       Squeeze through the construction venturi under NE
> 8th Street and zoom
> down the long left hand sweeper on to  520 W where
> we  join the  reverse
> commute into Seattle merging with the traffic headed
> home from Microsoft
> and the East side.  This car is as tight and precise
> as ever but sharing
> 4 other lanes with Urban Assault vehicles is not
> its forte.  We
> jockeyed for position as we funneled down to 2 lanes
> across the floating
> bridge and got a great waft of fresh air from Lake
> Washington.  Seagulls
> surfed overhead and kept pace with little effort. 
> Traffic is solid both
> ways and I get a good look at  the stream of traffic
> I will join on the
> return trip.
>       We swept past the Montlake Cut, swerved right and
> headed North on
> I-5. I hid out in the slow right lane (thoughts of
> all those 47 year
> old parts hanging together) while I looked for a way
> to merge  left 
> across four lanes and get up to speed.  
>       Then it hit me. Tires,  the sound of tires.  Tires
> to the left, tires
> to the right, tires in front and roaring up behind
> me.  The noise of the
> huge tires screaming in protest, tread against the
> pavement.  Pavement
> that has been turned into a rough aggregate from
> many years of studded
> tires chewing out the soft concrete.  
>       A great sizzling noise that overwhelms all the
> other senses.  Gone are
> the engine noises, the beautiful sound of the
> exhaust, and all the
> assorted squeaks and rattles associated with Healey
> driving.
>       All of a sudden I was dicing it up with huge,
> articulated busses, 
> hinged in the middle like slinky dogs, looking up
> at tires that are
> taller than my windshield, the sound is intensified
> as it bounces off
> the 18 wheeler  running a parallel course on my
> right.  The sounds are
> in stereo now and it is not pleasant. A slow monster
> of a SUV gets me
> into a box with an impatient  driver behind and I
> took a serious look at
> the undercarriage of the trailer truck.   Wonder if
> I could just slip
> underneath and make it safely to the other side.  I 
> decide that the
> windshield would have to be in the raked position
> to  make the move successfully.
>       I made my escape at the North gate Mall and after a
> few short moments
> was headed back down the ramp for the return
> journey.  The merge into
> the Southbound flood was uneventful and I found a
> convenient clearing to
> cut a nice diagonal into the fast lane.  The road
> was mine as I cruised
> in a empty pulse between the rumbling herds, joy
> returned.  A swarm of
> red lights rippled back from the pack in front,  an
> accident near the
> Ship Canal Bridge has turned 6 lanes of traffic into
> a parking lot.   I
> have to admit I was much more comfortable with my
> huge neighbors at this
> speed, everything seemed bigger from down there,
> even Hondas.
>       At least it was quieter and idling along in first
> gear gave me time to
> inspect the pavement right below me. I imagined all
> the tires that have
> rolled over it and noticed that  each expansion
> joint in the concrete is
> mismatched by a half inch,  no wonder it sounded
> like the clickity-clack
> of a train as the tight suspension bronco bucked me
> down the highway.  I
> swear I could count each and every one of those
> joints as they tried to
> shorten my spine at 70 Mph. 
>       We squeezed past the flashing lights and repair
> shop fodder and took
> off like a stampede over the bridge, swept left into
> the tunnel under
> the Northbound standstill and joined up with the
> Eastbound crush back
> over the Floating Bridge.  The Sun was setting in
> shades of pink behind
> us and the wind on the back of my neck was decidedly
> colder. I put my
> collar up and headed for the Moon that was breaking
> through the clouds.
>       The dash to the East was smooth and uneventful.  We
> escaped safely into
> the suburbs with the noise of the tires still
> ringing in my ears.  I
> felt like I had survived an hour of high banked oval
> racing and was
> happy to drive home into the warmth of the garage.  
>       I dont think the Healey was quite sure of what it
> had just been
> through. As I shut it down I promised it a peaceful
> ride into the
> countryside this weekend to make up for the rude
> commute and for
> bringing me home safely.
> 
> Thanks Donald,  Thanks for the car and the
> experience.
> 
> Rob Westcott
> Bellevue, WA
> 
> 55 BN-1

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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 06:57:36 EST
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (revisited - not long)

As an SUV owner , I think you have ignited a flame.  Run for your asbestos 
suit, helmet, and fire extinguisher.

Larry Wysocki

BN 6
BJ7
BMW X 5
PS:     Does your desire to not line the pockets of the oil rich Arab Sheiks  
cause you to not fly in a plane, ride in a boat or train, put fuel in your 
Healey?

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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:03:47 -0500
Subject: SUV's and Healey's

Gotta' be a little careful whose propoganda you get sucked in by.  If we
start letting someone else determine what we can drive and what we can't
pretty soon they will point out that our Healey's ought to be melted down
with maybe one left for a museum somewhere because we don't have catalytic
converters, we blow too much unburned fuel out the exhaust along with other
noxious gases, the steering column is basically a spear pointed at our
hearts, our visibility to other vehicles is low, our noise pollution is
high, we can only transport two adults at at time and there aren't enough of
them for everyone to have one (Fairness and Equality, you know).

For once one politically correct concept may be in our favor, though. Our
most recently publically appointed diety, Diversity.  With mostly plastic
painted-bumpered jelly bean aerodynamically styled sedans out there, a
chromed, sleek open-mouthed Healey coming up in your rear view mirror can't
be mistaken for a Toyota Corolla.  

Bill Moyer, BJ7, "Chimera" and a teeny, tiny SUV, "Dollar", the Explorer
Sport model

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 08:15:44 -0500
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (reprise, a bit long, sorry)

    How much precious Saudi fuel did it take for your round trip 'last
Christmas'?

    Moms and kids aren't usually worried about being 'macho-cool'. Too busy
finding a parking space, I guess. 'Macho-cool' is, however,  typically an
affectation of high-performance sports car drivers.

    "Thankless Saudis" - thankless Venezuelans, thankless Mexicans,
thankless Russians, thankless Omanis, thankless Kuwaitis, thankless Chinese,
thankless French, thankless Germans, thankless Japanese, etc, etc, etc -
what's your point?

    "Un-American" is someone trying to dictate a life-style to the rest of
us. Haven't you heard The United States of America is supposed to be a 'free
country'? Why infringe on the few real freedoms we have left?

    Maybe a few less elderly English sports cars would cut down on road-side
repairs, inefficient use of garage space, waste of petroleum products which,
when purchased, line the pockets of thankless folks with dollars, and it
would certainly cut down on the drivers of those cars having fun doing "what
they choose to do" with their own time and treasure.

    I hope your personal motto is "If nominated I will not run, if elected I
will not serve".

(W. T. Sherman)

    Regards,
                                                    Charley Braum

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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:23:22 -0400
Subject: Re: The Sound of Tires

Looks like you've touched a nerve. Good on ya.

Rick
'59 BN4
'70 Midget
Some old Volkswagen
Ford Ranger
nary an SUV

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:11:10 EST
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland 2003

Please go to:  <A HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/";>British Car Week in 
Maryland--2003</A> 

This year's celebration will take place on Sunday, June 1st and you're 
welcome to be a part of it.  Be sure and check out the site which contains 
all information and driving instructions, including details about the 
"Patuxent Valley Rallye" which is an optional part of the day's activities.

Plan on being there, and please share this information with your friends and 
fellow clubmembers.

Best--Michael Oritt

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From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 11:27:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Laygear

Cheers

Rick Swain

'59 BN4 

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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:36:59 EST
Subject: Looking for Roland

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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:28:33 -0800
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

>Maybe a few less SUVs would cut down on traffic
>congestion, reduce road noise and air pollution in the
>process!
>
>  
>
Alan,

You have it all wrong. We should be encouraging MORE people to drive 
SUV's, Hummers, etc. IMHO, the faster we can use up resources and create 
real shortages the better. When gasoline retails for $5 and up in the 
U.S. people will look for fuel efficiency for their daily rides like the 
rest of the world.

Cheers,
John (switching fingers and giving a thumbs up to all the SUV drivers)

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 12:31:02 EST
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (revisited - enough)

<< PS:     Does your desire to not line the pockets of the oil rich Arab 
Sheiks  
cause you to not fly in a plane, ride in a boat or train, put fuel in your 
Healey? >>

Let's not even bother. Anyone who wants to read both sides of this argument 
can satisfy themselves by reading Jamie Kitman in last month's Automobile, 
and the diatribes leveled at him in this month's Automobile.

Cheers
Gary Anderson

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From "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:01:03 -0000
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)


               Steve Jowett

                         UK HEALEY


                      www.ukhealey.co.uk

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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:15:30 +0000
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and 
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is 
labor lost; thinking 
without learning is dangerous."

  -  Chinese Proverb
> Hi John
>   It's Ok for you guys! We pay #5.50 a gallon now!
> 
> 
>                Steve Jowett
> 
>                          UK HEALEY
> 
> 
>                       www.ukhealey.co.uk

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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 10:24:33 -0800
Subject: RE: the sound of tires (revisited - enough)

I DO NOT wish to line Arab pockets.  I fly planes, I ride in boats, and
I own a Healey.  I also take the bus to work. 


Our everyday methods of transportation need to change.  PERIOD.  I
believe that a little leisure driving on the weekends in a beautiful
sports car or any car for that matter is NOT what is harming our
environment and leading to the current turmoil's in the world.  

But when I hear people say 'lets not even bother'  then I see that there
is a problem.  LET'S BOTHER.  Lets bother to change our everyday
activities so that they don't bother our planet environmentally.

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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:25:07 -0600
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

Should you not have asked Imperial or US gallon- there is no such animal as a
standard gallon.
I notice the close includes "Digs-4 Solutions" which I assume is a
computer/internet business
then "ukhealey.co.uk" you should know is not down the road near Pasadena -wink!

Kind regards
Ed

eyera3@attbi.com wrote:

> Is that an Imperial gallon or a standard gallon?
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
>   -  Chinese Proverb
> > Hi John
> >   It's Ok for you guys! We pay #5.50 a gallon now!
> >
> >
> >                Steve Jowett
> >
> >                          UK HEALEY
> >
> >
> >                       www.ukhealey.co.uk

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 15:41:27 -0500
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol

    Hmmm,

                                                    CB

    ps: OK, I'll quit now.

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From EYERA3 at attbi.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 21:00:51 +0000
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol

--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and 
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is 
labor lost; thinking 
without learning is dangerous."

  -  Chinese Proverb
>     Now let me think about this one; why is petroleum based fuel priced
> differently in different places? Is it that the market is at work or are
> there hidden charges added to the fuel price beyond the manufacturing,
> transportation, delivery and marketing costs?
> 
>     Hmmm,
> 
>                                                     CB
> 
>     ps: OK, I'll quit now.

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:47:54 -0500
Subject: Top frame pieces needed

My BN7 top frame came with a plastic sleeve on each side.  They are located on
the bottom of the frame rods which insert into the holes of the chassis.  The
sleeves are/were light gray, 5/8 inch diameter,2 1/4 long, and with a very
thin cross section (maybe 1/32).  Anyone know of a source for these?

TIA
Keith Pennell

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:55:27 -0500
Subject: Real cheap mag

For shipping & $3 handling I have a free mag to the FIRST TO REPLY.  It is
"Vintage Motorsport" Mar/Apr 1994.  VG to Exc condition.  Reply off list with
your zip and will give you a total.

Clearing out some never used stuff on a cold day.

Keith Pennell

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:14:38 -0500
Subject: Antisqueal shims for sale

Have a set of 4 antisqueal shims CHEAP.  These are patterened after the ones
on my BJ8 only sightly thicker and made of stainless.  Do not have the shape
of any I see in the catalogues.  Homemade, not tested.

Yours for $2 each plus shipping.  Money back except shipping if you are not
happy.  Contact me off list.

Clearing out some never used stuff on a cold day.

Keith Pennell

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:21:25 -0800
Subject: RE: the sound of petrol - long- not healey

While our Republic in the US has its problems we have saved the world from
despots many times. Without our involvement, England, France, Britain and
Australia and much of the world would now be speaking German from their
concentration camps courtesy of the National Socialist Worker's Party
(NAZI).

Communism murdered nearly 80 million of its own peoples chanting "the
greatest good for the greatest number" and that's not counting those they
killed in other countries. Currently the worst polluters in the world are
socialists and communists.  Kyoto which was a joke anyway exempted China and
India, major polluters.  Yes, we consume vast resources because we produce
vast resources and feed and protect much of the world. If we opened up the
existing oil fields in this country we wouldn't have to worry about imports,
but that's another story. Britain, Canada and Australia have confiscated
their citizens' firearms and crime has skyrocketed compared to ours. You are
now 6 times more likely to be assaulted in London by a jerk with a gun than
in New York city.

Now, I'm off my soapbox and I'm going to the garage to rivet some furflex to
my BJ8 because I live in a land that doesn't tell me (yet) what to drive,
where to work, what to earn or how to earn it. No people at any time of
history have had it better than we do now. God Bless America.
Ron
PS I seriously looked into converting my home to  solar. The cost was
$80-$100,000.  The technology isn't there yet.  I also donated 10 times to
charity what Al Gore had.

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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 23:31:04 +0100
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432


----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "ENQUIRIES" <enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol


>     Now let me think about this one; why is petroleum based fuel priced
> differently in different places? Is it that the market is at work or are
> there hidden charges added to the fuel price beyond the manufacturing,
> transportation, delivery and marketing costs?
>
>     Hmmm,
>
>                                                     CB
>
>     ps: OK, I'll quit now.

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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 14:38:12 -0800
Subject: new address for Golden Gate AHC

www.GoldenGateHealeys.com


Updates to your Healey links would be most appreciated.   Thanks

John Trifari
1955 BN1/1966 BJ8

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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:53:15 -0600
Subject: PETRO

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:56:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Top frame pieces needed

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:57:07 EST
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol - long- not healey

       Price
       60BT7
       Texas

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 16:55:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Not Healey Related (Political - DELETE NOW!!!!)

I know I've already stepped over the line as this is a
Healey list.... I promise this will be my last email
on the matter.   If it means anything, I do honestly
respect everyone's opinion on this... even the wrong
ones! ;-)

1) Americans complain CONSTANTLY about the traffic
they have to put up with, yet insist on driving with
one person per SUV.  One city bus will hold, on
average, 20 to 50 people.  If there was a city bus
operating every 5 minutes that took you somewhere near
where you wanted to go - that means it would take
20-50 cars off the road and replace it with one bus,
making traffic better for everyone and reducing wear
and tear on highways and roads.  Widening the roads
and driving massive road hogs, like they do in the US,
is definintely not the answer.  The money for these
things would be much better spent on improving public
transportation.

2) I live in Hong Kong, one of the largest cities in
the world (over 6 million people), and also the most
densly populated city in the world.  The roads here
are narrow and windy.  Yet when I drive my healey here
(about once a month), there's  hardly ever any
traffic.  Why?  Because Hong Kong has arguably the
best public transportation system in the world.  There
isn't a bus, train, subway, or ferry that can't take
you where you want to go, typically for $0.25 - to
$0.90 each way regardless of distance.  I then travel
back home to San Francisco, supposedly the most
environmentally friendly city in the US, and I can't
even get a frikkin airport shuttle/bus to Berkeley
from SFO?  Traffic is a ZOO in San Francisco and
frankly, MUNI sucks (the bus company)!

3) I'm not suggesting that you shouldn't own an SUV,
I'm just suggesting Americans should only drive them
when needed.  By the way, if Americans typically drove
two and four door compacts like they do in Europe or
Asia - the price of oil would be so low that the
Saudis wouldn't have had the money to buy the box
cutters and plane tickets they used on 9/11.  Driving
your SUV DOES make a difference.

4) It amazes me when Americans really "don't give a
sh*t" that the SUV they drive to the supermarket
wastes three times more gas than necessary, but then
these same Americans can't understand why so many
people overseas hate them.  Clue: they hate Americans
because of the very fact that so many Americans just
"don't give a sh*t".....

- Regards from a patriotic American who lives
overseas, and does give a sh*t!

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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 19:21:28 -0600
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol - long- not healey

Over the last few years the design and development school for SUVs has
generally seemed to be that of build a bigger SUV every year because it is
higher up and "I can see over other traffic" and it is heavier and therefore
"safer for my wife or kids or both" , or its just cooler because its bigger
than what everybody else has.  This, in my opinion, is not a good thing, you
can keep getting bigger but eventually you run out of roads and parking
spaces to to fit them on and gas to fuel them with.  And the tippy big
beasts aren't really safer they are only relatively safer until something
bigger is built and sold in large numbers, and you can only see over
everything until the next higher model comes out.  It sure is great for the
car/truck manufacturers, because like the restyles that detroit used to hype
up for us each year in the fifties it gives the public a need to buy a new
SUV next year or two, because what was big last year will be wimpy the next.
My hope is that like the detroit re-styles the buying public will figure
this out and the market will get more sane, maybe it is happening already.

Fuel economy and safety standards apply to passenger vehicles in the USA.
While I booed and hissed with most of the rest of you (and the former big
three) when they started regulating cars in the sixties and seventies,
ultimately these regulations resulted in (my opinion) the accelerated
development of more fuel efficient, more reliable, less polluting, and
ultimately faster and better performing  automobiles through the use of
electronic engine controls and other developments.  Of course these
developments also put an end to the backyard mechanic in many respects, but
that is another issue.

More stringent fuel economy and safety standards should apply to SUVs and
trucks as well for the same reasons.

How does this all relate to Healeys?  Well the fact that about a third to
half the vehicles on the road will ride up my shapely rear end and literally
take my head off when they rear end me because they don't see me because I
am under there line of sight this is a concern.

If everybody was driving SUVs because they had six kids and snow on the
ground  4 months of the year I would't complain  either, but I usually see
only a solo driver on dry pavement in these land yachts, and it seems to me
to be a lot of waste for no good reason.

Lastly to those that will say if you follow my logic we would have to outlaw
our polluting, fuel inefficent for their size, polluting Healeys, I say
apples to oranges, on the SUVS we are talking about a vehicle type that is
1) still being made and 2) makes up a siginificant part of the motor vehicle
fleet and miles driven in motor vehicles each year.  Our healeys and
collector cars in general make up a small portion of the motor vehicle gene
pool and an even smaller percentage of miles driven on the road.

my 2 cents, sorry to rant, been holding that one in a while.

Greg Lemon
54 BN1
94 Sentra SE-R

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 21:04:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Not totally Healey Related (short)

    Has anyone experimented with oversized carb heat shields, wider and
higher. Would a larger profile shield help, or would more conductive
materials help (aluminum)?

    Thanks in advance,
                                                                    CB

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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 21:07:05 -0500
Subject: Re: the sound of petrol - long- not healey


" If everybody was driving SUVs because they had six kids and snow on 
the ground  4 months of the year I would't complain  either......."


________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Visit www.juno.com

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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:17:55 -0800
Subject: Exhaust system

Thanks,
Greg
67BJ8

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:28:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Top frame pieces needed

> My BN7 top frame came with a plastic sleeve on each side.  They are
located on
> the bottom of the frame rods which insert into the holes of the chassis.
The
> sleeves are/were light gray, 5/8 inch diameter,2 1/4 long, and with a very
> thin cross section (maybe 1/32).  Anyone know of a source for these?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 19:39:13 -0700
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

I am an American citizen and a taxpayer in good
standing. I have served in my
country's armed forces in time of war. I have
raised four sons who have or will
do the same and I resent that we, OR ANYONE,
should be called un-american
because of our choice of transportation. I don't
claim the right to badmouth
anyone for such personal choices and I resent it
when a bunch of leftie wingnuts
shoot their mouths off for political gain. I
CHOOSE NOT TO PARTICIPATE IN YOUR
UTOPIA!

If you think that any vehicle which is less
"responsible" than your Healey
should be taken off the road then join the parade
of Sheep and Lemmings who are
working hard to limit my choices as to what I can drive.

Just remember, when my Landies have been turned
into paper clips or some other
"responsible" but mundane items of hardware that
I'll be rooting for them when
they force you to "recycle" your Healey.

Bill Lawrence

PS: The fuel economy on my Range Rover is very
close to the best observed
mileage of my BN1 and on a cost for load weight
basis should be considered
vastly superior (more responsible?). Also with a
100" wheelbase I make a point
of parking in "Compact Car" spaces.

Blue One Hundred wrote:

> Rob -
>
> This last Christmas I was back in California driving
> my BN1 around, and I had to laugh at all the massive
> SUVs jockying for parking spaces at the local
> Supermarket.
>
> All the SUVs were way too large, filled up the parking
> spaces to the max, the moms and kids didn't have
> enough room to open their doors and get out of the
> SUV, and they all had to execute three and four point
> turns to simply pull into the standard offset-angle
> parking space.  Explain to me exactly how macho-cool
> is that?
>
> A huge gas-sucking SUV that only soccer moms drive and
> serves only to line the pockets of thankless Saudis
> dripping with the money they make every time you fill
> up at the pump?  hmmm...
>
> Not exactly macho and most definitely un-American
> despite the popular misconceptions about owning an
> SUV.
>
> Maybe a few less SUVs would cut down on traffic
> congestion, reduce road noise and air pollution in the
> process!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> -

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:42:57 -0800
Subject: Was: Top frame, FOUND IT

From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Top frame pieces needed


> I have used clear Heat Shrink tubing.  It is not gray, but if you paint
the
> frame the correct gray color, it doesn't look bad.  Don't know what the
> Concourse folks would say.  I think that I read somewhere (maybe Concourse
> Standards, but can't find it now) it was supposed to be cream colored
>
> > My BN7 top frame came with a plastic sleeve on each side.  They are
> located on
> > the bottom of the frame rods which insert into the holes of the chassis.
> The
> > sleeves are/were light gray, 5/8 inch diameter,2 1/4 long, and with a
very
> > thin cross section (maybe 1/32).  Anyone know of a source for these?
> >
> > TIA
> > Keith Pennell

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 19:53:39 -0700
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

Bill Lawrence

John Loftus wrote:

> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> >Maybe a few less SUVs would cut down on traffic
> >congestion, reduce road noise and air pollution in the
> >process!
> >
> >
> >
> Alan,
>
> You have it all wrong. We should be encouraging MORE people to drive
> SUV's, Hummers, etc. IMHO, the faster we can use up resources and create
> real shortages the better. When gasoline retails for $5 and up in the
> U.S. people will look for fuel efficiency for their daily rides like the
> rest of the world.
>
> Cheers,
> John (switching fingers and giving a thumbs up to all the SUV drivers)

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 21:28:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust system

Bill Lawrence

Greg Wilkinson wrote:

> Hi All,
>         In lieu of SUV bashing and oil prices... a diversion. I will be 
>installing
> headers which have something like 2 inch collectors on them. The stock
> muffler pipes are of course smaller. Is there any reason I shouldn't make
> the new pipes out of aluminum?
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
> 67BJ8

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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 22:32:31 -0600
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long) (non-technical)

Happy Healying!

Greg

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 22:54:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Not totally Healey Related (short)

Bill Lawrence



Charley Braum wrote:

>     I promised I'd quit.
>
>     Has anyone experimented with oversized carb heat shields, wider and
> higher. Would a larger profile shield help, or would more conductive
> materials help (aluminum)?
>
>     Thanks in advance,
>                                                                     CB

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 01:06:54 EST
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

Thanks to Rob Westcott for sharing what was more a piece of literature than a 
mere complaint of tire noise and vehicle size. I enjoyed reading the story 
which was filled with imagery and depth not often written of such a 
potentially trivial time spent behind the wheel, specially in todays 
fast-paced internet world. It's just that passion and realization of the 
senses that make the Healey such a fun hobby.

Rick
San Diego

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 01:15:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Carb heat shield

    Just a thought,

                                                                    CB

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 00:00:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Carb heat shield

On my BN2 with LeMans cold air intake box, the carbs are down right cool
if the engine is running. Cool enough that with a warmed up engine I can
adjust the jet nuts with bare fingers. Evaporative cooling from the
vaporized fuel flowing through the carb venturi's really cools things.
The more fuel flow the more cooling. Almost too cold. Just using a cool
outside air intake helps power noticeably. The only time that the carbs
get hot is after a hot soak with engine not running. I think that a cold
air intake would do more for power than a larger heat shield would.

Just a thought,

Dave Russell
BN2

>Charley Braum wrote:
> 
>      I would hope to carry the maximum amount of heat away from the fuel/air
> mixture entering the carbs as colder (more dense) means more.
> 
>     Just a thought,
> 
>                                                                     CB

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 09:13:26 -0800
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)


I don't know that anyone's mentioned this yet, But I think that the piece
was
a very well written exersize.

Thanks to Rob Westcott for sharing what was more a piece of literature than
a
mere complaint of tire noise and vehicle size. I enjoyed reading the story
which was filled with imagery and depth not often written of such a
potentially trivial time spent behind the wheel, specially in todays
fast-paced internet world. It's just that passion and realization of the
senses that make the Healey such a fun hobby.

Rick
San Diego

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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 12:15:26 -0500
Subject: Re:Smiths Ammeter

Happy Healeying,

Doug
'56 BN2

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 09:18:48 -0800
Subject: RE: the sound of tires (long)

-----Original Message-----
From: ENQUIRIES [mailto:enquiries@ukhealey.co.uk]
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 2:38 AM
To: eyera3@attbi.com
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)


Ok, ours is an imperial gallon! We can also still get leaded (4 star),
but at #1.00 a litre!  Around $86.00 to fill a Big Healey from empty!



               Steve      UK HEALEY

                            www.ukhealey.co.uk

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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 09:50:02 -0800
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)

> I try to buy some aviation gas every once in a while to treat my car to hi
> test. Its 97 octane to 104 octane here in the states, it runs about $2-3.00
> USA.
> Down in Los Angeles there is a gas station near where I used to live that
> still sells racing fuel right at the pump. I checked a few months ago and
> its still there although its about $4.00 a us gallon. Still quite cheap by
> world standards.
> Ira

And where might that be located?  Unleaded, I assume?

TIA,

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663

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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 13:36:32 -0500
Subject: RE;RE: the sound of petrol - long- not healey

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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 14:07:19 -0500
Subject: Re:100-4 Stuff

Happy Healeying,

Doug 
'56 BN2

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 11:28:41 -0800
Subject: Avgas octane; was: the sound of tires (long)

The overall quality is highly monitored, and I wouldn't expect the octane
rating to vary much (unless someone mixes in turbine fuel, which reduces
the octane rating to single digits).  The detonation margin in high-powered
piston aircraft engines is very small, an octane number or two on the low
side could be a real problem in some engines.

And, yes, it's a "bargain."

bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************


> I try to buy some aviation gas every once in a while to treat my car to hi
> test. Its 97 octane to 104 octane here in the states, it runs about $2-3.00
> USA.
> Down in Los Angeles there is a gas station near where I used to live that
> still sells racing fuel right at the pump. I checked a few months ago and
> its still there although its about $4.00 a us gallon. Still quite cheap by
> world standards.
> Ira

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 11:47:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Computer Question--no Healey Content

Tom

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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:23:19 -0600
Subject: Barrett-Jackson

It sure is quiet out there--is everyone watching the Barrett-Jackson
auction on SPEED channel!!!!!!!!

Some really beautiful cars and the Healeys are yet to come, should be very
interesting.

Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx.  75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 17:33:46 -0500
Subject: Fw: 100-6 on e-Bay

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay


> Recent Barrett-Jackson auction results show several BJ8 Phase 2 selling
for
> 40k to a high of 60k. They appear from photos to be A+ restorations.
> Complete restorations by reputable companies (Fourintune, Tsikuris
Classics
> , etc.) are exceeding 60k and more depending on the level of concourse or
> modifications the owner desires.
>
> Based on the above, I would expect to see similar auction results in the
> future. There is a blue BJ8 listed for the upcoming Scottsdale auction
which
> looks like it could approach the 60k figure too. It will be interesting to
> see the price when the hammer falls for this one.
>
> If the same A+ car was offered through Kruse, Hemmings or E-bay , I
believe
> the true value would be depressed because of the type of buyer those
forums
> attract.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> 67' BJ8

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 17:42:22 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-6 on e-Bay

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
    Mine is a '58 BN6 that IS a gold level car. It is the only Healey Club
concours gold BN6 in North America.

    http://www.barrett-jackson.com/events/scottsdale/vehicles/cardetail_list.
asp?id=172207

    Bob Denton

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 18:11:39 -0800
Subject: RE: the sound of tires (long)

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of bn1@pacbell.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 9:50 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long)


I Erbs wrote:

> I try to buy some aviation gas every once in a while to treat my car to hi
> test. Its 97 octane to 104 octane here in the states, it runs about
$2-3.00
> USA.
> Down in Los Angeles there is a gas station near where I used to live that
> still sells racing fuel right at the pump. I checked a few months ago and
> its still there although its about $4.00 a us gallon. Still quite cheap by
> world standards.
> Ira

And where might that be located?  Unleaded, I assume?

TIA,

Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 20:11:45 -0600
Subject: source for rivits for Grill brackets for 61 Mk1 3000

I'm assuming that it requires a hand peened rivet or some kind,  the shroud
appears to be counter sunk in this area as well, so, I'm guessing it takes a
special purpose built rivet.

Is this something I can source locally or must it come from a Healey
Supplier.(I already hit Home Depot,....no luck)

Brian Collins
Dallas, TX

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 21:33:11 EST
Subject: Parking in gear

I always thought it was bad practice to do this.  Am I correct or 
misinformed?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From "Charlie" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 21:59:48 -0600
Subject: Water Pump

I replaced the starter solenoid and water pump on my BN1 today.  I had one
problem, the top right nut (looking from the front of the car) of the water
pump takes some kind of very thin socket wrench or a special open end
wrench... it doesn't leak, but it would make me feel better knowing it's
torqued down a bit.  Someone on the list forewarned me, but I don't remember
the lister or the solution.

Sure is nice to hit the starter button and the car fires up instead of hearing
that damn click sound :)

Cheers,

Charlie Stewart
'53 BN1
'71 TR-6

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 23:16:35 EST
Subject: Re: Water Pump


> Someone on the list forewarned me, but I don't remember
> the lister or the solution.

Charlie--

That would be me.... 

I had more problems with the bottom (middle) one, and aside from removing 
some material (see below) my solution was to use a ratcheting box-end 
wrenches with (I think) a 1/4" drive socket--which has a thinner wall 
section--and a square drive, and turn the offending little bugger one flat at 
a time.  

To be sure, it is a bitch of a job and again I suggest grinding out some 
metal on the pump body around where the nuts go to make it easier.

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 20:36:44 -0800
Subject: Re: the sound of tires (long) (non-technical)

Rob

Greg Lemon wrote:
> 
> Actually just re-read Robs original message on this, I think it was a
> longish way of saying something we can all agree on, driving your Healey in
> heavy traffic sucks, but a crisp day and an open road is a joy with few
> equals.  Thanks for sharing and glad you have the opportunity to enjoy, snow
> here now, but was sunny and sixty and Healey weather a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> Happy Healying!

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From Olin Kane <kanes at frontier.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 21:57:48 -0700
Subject: Fwd: Re: the sound of tires (long)




>A huge gas-sucking SUV that only soccer moms drive and
>serves only to line the pockets of thankless Saudis
>dripping with the money they make every time you fill
>up at the pump?  hmmm...
>
>Not exactly macho and most definitely un-American
>despite the popular misconceptions about owning an
>SUV.
>
>Alan
>

Olin Kane
BJ7
Durango, CO

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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 21:42:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Parking in gear

        That would be 50 Healeys...  and would you ever dare to drive it?

Rob Westcott   

'55 BN 1      (I park in gear)



Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> 
> While watching the Barrett-Jackson auction I noticed, when they did some
> interior shots of the Jag XKSS (BTW, I think it is still available on reserve
> for $1.3 million if anyone is interested) that the car was parked in what
> appeared to be third gear.

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From "Lance" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 05:43:52 -0500
Subject: battery cable

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From jbpate at attglobal.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:23:24 -0500
Subject: British Car Show Nashville, TN

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 08:39:48 -0800
Subject: ;RE: the sound of petrol - short- not healey-correction

Subject: RE;RE: the sound of petrol - long- not healey


While there was a lot of misinformation in R. Davies diatribe, I'll
just pick one out and out falsehood to correct...the Canadian
government has not, and does not intend to confiscate fireams, they
have asked for them to be registered...

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:16:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: the sound of tires (long)

Bill Lawrence

Olin Kane wrote:

> If you lived where I do, you'd be very grateful for a 4WD SUV especially in
> the winter. Try these snow packed mountain roads in your Healey.
>
> >A huge gas-sucking SUV that only soccer moms drive and
> >serves only to line the pockets of thankless Saudis
> >dripping with the money they make every time you fill
> >up at the pump?  hmmm...
> >
> >Not exactly macho and most definitely un-American
> >despite the popular misconceptions about owning an
> >SUV.
> >
> >Alan
> >
>
> Olin Kane
> BJ7
> Durango, CO

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:18:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Pump

The problem is not with the pump or the tool, but
with the hardware. A quick
look at my parts book (AKD 870, plate A) shows an
odd looking plug like piece
with a lock washer near the water pump pulley.
Unfortunately there is no number
associated with that piece and so it may not be
apparent that it is in fact a
special nut with a hex on the outer end and a tube
extending about an inch
beyond the hex. I only found enough of these in my
parts jumble to install one
water pump. Perhaps one of our fine rare parts
distributors has a supply.

God luck.

Bill Lawrence

Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/18/2003 10:59:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> chadstew@texas.net writes:
>
> > Someone on the list forewarned me, but I don't remember
> > the lister or the solution.
>
> Charlie--
>
> That would be me....
>
> I had more problems with the bottom (middle) one, and aside from removing
> some material (see below) my solution was to use a ratcheting box-end
> wrenches with (I think) a 1/4" drive socket--which has a thinner wall
> section--and a square drive, and turn the offending little bugger one flat at
> a time.
>
> To be sure, it is a bitch of a job and again I suggest grinding out some
> metal on the pump body around where the nuts go to make it easier.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:32:28 -0600
Subject: Re: battery cable

Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)

Lance wrote:

> Hi all:
> There was a post awhile back about replacing the battery-to -starter cable
> with welding lead cable.  Can't find in archives.  Does anyone remember the
> gauge?  I believe it was suppose to be more flexible and better all around.
> TIA
> lance
> 54 bn1

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:36:30 EST
Subject: Vehicle/driver relative safety rates- not Healey specific

In terms of driver deaths per year per million vehicles sold (in other words 
your odds of being killed while driving the vehicle you bought), the ranking 
and numbers are:

inport luxury cars: 40 deaths per million vehicles sold
Mini-vans: 50
Midsize and large cars: 72
SUVs: 80
Compact cars: 100
Pickups: 110
Subcompacts: 120
Sports Cars: 200

This takes into account everything from inherent safety problems of vehicle 
to tendency of drivers of a particular type of vehicle to drive in a 
particular manner.

Just an interesting factoid.
Cheers
gary

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:48:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Water Pump

They are actually listed on our web site as I had a few made for a
project engine. 

I'm not sure if we actually have any in stock but I can check if anyone
is interested.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ynotink
Sent: 19-Jan-03 12:18 PM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: chadstew@texas.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Water Pump

Gentlemen,

The problem is not with the pump or the tool, but
with the hardware. A quick
look at my parts book (AKD 870, plate A) shows an
odd looking plug like piece
with a lock washer near the water pump pulley.
Unfortunately there is no number
associated with that piece and so it may not be
apparent that it is in fact a
special nut with a hex on the outer end and a tube
extending about an inch
beyond the hex. I only found enough of these in my
parts jumble to install one
water pump. Perhaps one of our fine rare parts
distributors has a supply.

God luck.

Bill Lawrence

Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/18/2003 10:59:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> chadstew@texas.net writes:
>
> > Someone on the list forewarned me, but I don't remember
> > the lister or the solution.
>
> Charlie--
>
> That would be me....
>
> I had more problems with the bottom (middle) one, and aside from
removing
> some material (see below) my solution was to use a ratcheting box-end
> wrenches with (I think) a 1/4" drive socket--which has a thinner wall
> section--and a square drive, and turn the offending little bugger one
flat at
> a time.
>
> To be sure, it is a bitch of a job and again I suggest grinding out
some
> metal on the pump body around where the nuts go to make it easier.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:48:59 EST
Subject: Re: Water Pump


> The problem is not with the pump or the tool, but
> with the hardware

Mike Salter just made me aware of that.
Live and learn.....and I am still faced, when it again becomes necessary, 
with removing the WRONG nuts that are on there.  

Best--Michael

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:51:58 EST
Subject: Re: Vehicle/driver relative safety rates- not Healey specific

Gary:  Can you interpolate from the following the odds against a VEGAN Healey 
driver?

Michael

> eating a big mac and holding a cup of coffee in lap
> 
> inport luxury cars: 40 deaths per million vehicles sold
> Mini-vans: 50
> Midsize and large cars: 72
> SUVs: 80
> Compact cars: 100
> Pickups: 110
> Subcompacts: 120
> Sports Cars: 200

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:59:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Pump

Bill

Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/19/2003 12:20:42 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
>
>
>> The problem is not with the pump or the tool,
>> but
>> with the hardware
>
> Mike Salter just made me aware of that.
> Live and learn.....and I am still faced, when it
> again becomes necessary, with removing the WRONG
> nuts that are on there.
>
> Best--Michael

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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:22:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Vehicle/driver relative safety rates- not Healey specific

Interesting.  I wonder what are the "sports cars" included in the study.  
Camaros, Firebirds and Mustangs, with a driver population largely skewed 
toward youngsters, perhaps?  

I'd hate for anyone to conclude from the above that a Lexus is intrinsically 
safer than a Camaro [although it well may be] unless the study also took into 
account the demographics of the drivers of those cars.  
-- 
John Miller, N4VU

Xerox does it again and again and again and ...

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:50:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Update on Reservoir  leaks--appears to be the female acorn

Haven't heard much the last couple of days - how are you making out with the
hydraulic system leaks?

Finally hooked up with the friend that just did his whole braking system as
part of a total restoration.  Here is what we are pretty sure the order of
assembly for the reservoir is:

Start with the pipe fitting in your hand - the book calls it the adaptor

For the brakes:
Sealing washer on first, then the main cannister, then the flat washer
(inside), then the nut.

For the clutch:
Sealing washer, then the main cannister, then another sealing washer
(inside), then the inner cannister, then the flat washer, then the nut.

Usually, the reservoir assembly's seam is oriented towards the rear of the
car (for esthetics only), so one has to figure out which hole in the
cannister is which first for the lines to fit the correct outlets.  Believe
it or not, I've seen a couple of cars with the hook up reversed - which
doesn't leave a hell of a lot of reserve brake fluid!

If you're using the Dowty washers, I don't see the leaks being at the seals,
unless the main cannister is really gibbled on the bottom - those washers
really work.

I'd not like to risk misinformation on this item, and would request any
other knowlegeable listers to weigh in if they feel that there are any
errors here.

Let us know how it's going.

Cheers,

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8



----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 4:37 PM
Subject: Update on Reservoir leaks--appears to be the female acorn nut
fitting , NOT the can!!


OK, following Brian Mix's advice, I started cranking down on fasteners.  The
ones leaking are all the larger 9/16 acorn nuts like the ones under the
reservoir.

I removed the separate reservoir cylinder for the clutch and thought that
had
fixed it, but,.....only slowed it down.  so,  I drained and disassembled it
again, with Stat-o-Seals top and bottom and put it back in and added fluid.

BUT

This time, I rotated the reservoir 180 degrees so that the can fitting that
had been leaking would now be on the rear most position.

Now that fitting which is now on the rear most position is not leaking,
BUT,
even though I rotated the can 180 DEGREES It is still leaking on the front
most or clutch side of the reservoir bottom fittings.  This would indicate
to
me that the problem is NOT with the can but rather something about the
stainless line from Classic tubes or perhaps, the angle at which it
approaches
the bottom of the res can.

Any experience with THIS new finding???

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:11:25 -0600
Subject: Relative Safety of Automobiles

Don
BN7
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 15:21:57 EST
Subject: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...

<A 
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=2400701536";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&;
item=2400701536</A>

How does this compare to what went through Barret-Jackson?

Richard

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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:31:04 +0100
Subject: Re: Parking in gear

In this sometimes frost-bitten country the general practice is to park in
1st  gear to avoid the handbrake cable freezing solid. On the other hand
when your car is hit while parked in gear it may cost you a gearbox.

Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432

----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 3:33 AM
Subject: Parking in gear


> While watching the Barrett-Jackson auction I noticed, when they did some
> interior shots of the Jag XKSS (BTW, I think it is still available on
reserve
> for $1.3 million if anyone is interested) that the car was parked in what
> appeared to be third gear.
>
> I always thought it was bad practice to do this.  Am I correct or
> misinformed?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 13:02:33 -0800
Subject: Dash Facia Removal - 1960 BT7

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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:01:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Relative Safety of Automobiles

I seriously considered at one time commissioning a
bumper sticker that would act as a warning sticker
(since we all know how effective these are at
warding off liability for the stupid acts of others)
that would have said roughly:

Warning! Various safety organisations have
determined that smashing your little sh*tbox
against my
SUV may be hazardous to your health.

Bill Lawrence

Don Yarber wrote:

> My question would be how many of the subcompact fatalities were caused by 
>being creamed by an SUV?
>
> Don
> BN7
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
>breath away"

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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 16:36:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Top frame pieces needed

Thanks,   Mark


----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 3:47 PM
Subject: Top frame pieces needed


> Hello Listers,
>
> My BN7 top frame came with a plastic sleeve on each side.  They are
located on
> the bottom of the frame rods which insert into the holes of the chassis.
The
> sleeves are/were light gray, 5/8 inch diameter,2 1/4 long, and with a very
> thin cross section (maybe 1/32).  Anyone know of a source for these?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell

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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 15:13:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Pump

I remember that problem also, and took an alternative approach.  I had a 
friend make me a couple of extra long nuts out of hex stock so they 
extended beyond the recess in the water pump for use with a regular 
wrench.  Worked for me.

Russ Staub
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
'60 AN5
Mesa, AZ

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From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 17:22:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...

Why would anyone attempt to sell a car of this quality on eBay?  Surely
other venues more reliably produce buyers with the wits, will and checkbooks
to yield a sale to the satisfaction of the seller especially for a unique
car of this quality.  I can't imagine that folks with the money to pay what
this car is worth even look at ebay (except, as I did, on a referral from
"the list" which I suspect would produce any available interest without the
ebay intermediary).

I can only guess that the ebay posting is for the amusement of the seller.
I can't imagine he expects to conclude a sale at the minimum that he
doubtlessly rightfully expects.  Just one more reason that for Healey sales
ebay is a place to get an inflated price for a rust bucket and not a place
to move high quality merchandise to true afficianados of the marque.

I just can't see eBay as a place to buy a Healey at a fair price or a place
to sell one at the best price.

Just another two cents worth.

John Cope
62BT7 of no where near the subject quality

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:16:53 EST
Subject: Re: Water Pump

* * * * * * * * * * 
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along 
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work.  In easy to 
understand writing.  220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767  
www.britishcarspecialists.com

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 15:49:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Dash Facia Removal - 1960 BT7

John Snyder

----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 1:02 PM
Subject: Dash Facia Removal - 1960 BT7


> Dear Forum-
> I have successfully removed all of my dash components and the one and only
> thing giving me grief is the choke.  Any ideas how that black Choke knob
comes
> off the mechanism?  Do I need to remove the knob or is there another
technique
> I am not aware of?  I can't seem to get it off and I dont want to damage
it.
> Thanks,
> Matt-

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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:55:19 EST
Subject: Re: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...Response long

Do folks think that only bargain hunters or garage sale $0.15 on the dollar 
buyers lurk in the depths of the eBay clientele you would be mistaken.  
Plenty of knowledgeable folks with lots of expendable greenbacks, euros, etc. 
are out there checking on the car of their dreams in cyber land. Try 
searching for big-ticket items sometime. Mutimillion dollar homes and 
businesses, diamonds, Porche and Rolls are all there.

Would I buy a car advertised as this one is on Ebay if I had the $45-$50k 
plus that it would take to own this car, yes.  Would I ask a lot of 
questions, try to get a personal inspection or pre-sale agreement with the 
seller for verification of condition, etc., yes. Would I be a little nervous 
that it might not work out exactly as planned, yes. 

This is a beautiful car that is presented well and received 11 bids from 
three not so experienced eBayers in the first 6 hours of the auction.  May 
times the auction will not even show in the search engine for the first 6 
hours. 

Will the bidders meet the reserve? Who knows? Is the seller fishing for 
potential buyers away from the auction? I doubt it. Healey interested folks 
all over the world are finding out about a gold level car for sale.  I wish 
him or her well on their auction. 
 
Just to cover the bases I have no financial interest in this car nor do I 
even know the seller. Just standing on a soapbox on a warm sunny Sunday 
afternoon.
Aloha
Perry

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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:04:12 EST
Subject: Re: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...

I don't profess to understand why Bob chose to advertise his car on e-bay.  
Maybe just to get a feel for where that particular community would place the 
value.  Who knows for sure except him BUT it is his car so it's his call 
regardless of logic.

Just my 2 cent reply.

Gary Fuqua
66 BJ8
67 Tiger Mk II
78 Alfa Romeo Spider
79 MGB 
81 TR 8 EFI
74, 75, 76 TR 6
66 TR 4A IRS
62 TR 3B
61 TR 3A
76 Porsche 911S Targa
69 Triumph TR 6R Tiger
70 BSA 441 Victor Special
70 BSA lightning
69 Norton Commando  
01 Buell M2 Cyclone

And yes I have a call into Bob.

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:01:51 -0600
Subject: Further trials and tribulations regarding brake bleeding

The leaking at my reservoir turned out to be a bad flair on the tube itself
(made by classic tube)  it was so off center that it could not seat properly.

I overnighted it to Tim at Classic, (My expense) Wednesday and had another
back by Friday Morning.   I got it on there, no more leaks at that location.
Others continued to seep until further tightening.   I tried to bleed the
system down today,  I finally gave up on the Mity-Vac;  since I didn't Teflon
tape my bleeders, they were bleeding air past the screw threads---waste of
time.   So, Dragged a friend over to the shop and did it the old fashioned
way,  we were making good progress on the rear brakes, and when I got to the
right front, I noticed that the caliper was seeping,  when I had my friend
pump it up,  a small piss stream shot out of the lower inside of the caliper.
YIKES!!

When I went through the car, I had the calipers cad plated to help restore the
bore diameters by some restorer's recommendation.  (They were nice and smooth)
I used new stainless steel pistons and of course new seals,  because the
calipers were spilt, I got the correct square cut seals from APPLE HYDRAULIC
and installed them prior to reassembly.

Any thoughts on what is going on in the caliper.  I have heard that splitting
the calipers can be problematic if the correct new square cut seals were not
installed, but was re- assured that with the new square cut seals, they would
be fine.

Help! (Again) and thanks in advance.

Please respond directly to me as I do not manage to catch all the many digests
I get from various clubs.

Brian Collins

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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:14:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...

> John, just for the record there are a few of us that can afford to buy and do
> watch e-bay for these little nuggets.  Can't agree with you that every Healey
> (or other cars for that matter) sold on e-bay is an overpriced rust bucket.

Thanks, Gary, for moving a lot of us out of the "Wednesday Shopper" caste.  Some
of the folks looking for cars have a little discretionary income and there are a
bunch of venues that need to be explored.  Ebay is just one of them.  For the
money, the exposure that ebay provides is amazing.  I guess the problem for some
folks is 'fessing up to the boys that you got a decent deal somewhere else than
the Barrett-Jackson auction is more than they can take.

> I don't profess to understand why Bob chose to advertise his car on e-bay.

Maybe he needed to get it out to several million folks for a very few bucks!  
Not
a bad plan, I'd say.

>
> 70 BSA lightning

Interested in selling the Lightning?

Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:16:02 EST
Subject: Re: Parking in gear

<< for $1.3 million if anyone is interested) that the car was parked in what
> appeared to be third gear.
>
> I always thought it was bad practice to do this.  Am I correct or
> misinformed? >>

Bad to park in gear? or bad to park in third gear? Cars with manual gears 
should always be in gear when parked. Right? Of course use the handbrake too.
Reverse is least likely to move 4th is more likely to move. I'm pretty sure 
that it's pretty flat where the auction was held... no worry of rolling 
there...

Rick
San Diego

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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:51:51 EST
Subject: Re: Water Pump

<< I remember that problem also, and took an alternative approach.  I had a 
 friend make me a couple of extra long nuts out of hex stock so they 
 extended beyond the recess in the water pump for use with a regular 
 wrench.  Worked for me. >>

The nut you are looking for is part# 1D 105 has a 3/8-20BSF thread. 2 reqd.

They are in stock and you can see them at <A HREF="dunritetool.com">
Dunritetool.com</A> under Austin Healey Products page. And yes, there are 
some other hard to find Healey parts that I manufacture.

Don Lenschow

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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:05:02 -0500
Subject: BN4 Progress

I've still got a long way to go, but it's finally gotten to the point of
making repairs rather than dismantling and stripping.  If the money holds out,
there may be another one on the road by summertime (that might be a big 'if').
I'll keep you posted.

Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:15:06 -0600
Subject: Barrett Jackson


Bob Denton

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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:56:52 EST
Subject: Barrett-Jackson Experience - Long

I just returned from a busy three days at Barrett-Jackson, since I attend 
with a good friend and classic car restorer from here in San Diego who 
brought fourteen cars this year to sell.  He gets all of his car nut friends, 
four of us, to come along and help drive the cars and all of the other tasks 
that must be done, but anyway a real blast this year, my forth going with 
him.  Where else can you drive a 99+ JCNA level XKE across the block, while 
drinking a cocktail, on television, see it sell for over $110K, and not get 
arrested!  Is this a great country, or what!  

I think that I drove at least seven cars across the block, four of them 
during The Speed Channel coverage.  As I remember on Friday I drove a '59 MD 
190 SL Roadster sold at around $48K and a Healey Blue/OEW '61 3000 Mk II BT7 
(RHD BTW) that was an older, driver restoration, and the gavel fell at $30K.  
Not a bad price for a car that has covered 4,800 miles since being restored 
and had a non standard red interior.  I've driven that particular car at 
least a hundred miles on the freeway and back roads, and it's a real solid 
car, but no show winner.

On Saturday, I drove #665, the maroon '66 XKE sold at $110K,  # 717 the 
silver '61 XKE FHC Works Race-Street Clone no sale at $90K,  #756 the black 
'56 XK 140 MC Roadster sold at $78K, #762 the white '70 XKE Series II 
Roadster which was a First Place Nat'l JCNA show winner,  which I can't 
remember what it sold for and finally,  # 782, a silver '57 Porsche Spyder 
Replica, no sale at $33K.  Anyway, It was way too much fun, as it is every 
year, but very hectic trying to get that many cars across the block, a total 
of ten on Saturday!

As far as the Austin Healeys this year, Kurt Tanner from Los Angeles, who 
restores several cars each year just for this auction, brought three cars.  
#383 the black '60 3000 MkI BT7 and #395 the Healey blue '67 BJ8 both very 
nice restorations which both sold for about $10K under what was expected.  
His other car, a red '56 BN2 which I did not see because it was at the RM 
Auction across town I believe may have sold for $43K, but I'm not certain.

John Wilson of Oregon also restores one car every year just for this auction, 
had #448, the BRG '62 3000 MkII BT7, which brought a disappointing $36K , but 
even the Speed Channel Commentators attributed this to the non standard paint 
and interior color, mentioning something to the effect that if you want the 
big bucks, the car had better be correct.  That's my plug for us concours 
types so let the flames begin.  

Enough for now, and I'm still eager to see what Bob Denton got for his Gold 
Level BN6.  Does anyone know yet?

Cheers,

Curt Arndt - Who still has a big $hit eating grin on his face
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)

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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:01:40 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett Jackson x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

<< Well, my BN6 did not meet my reserve. The bidding got to $40,000 and
 stalled. So  I'm taking it home. A fairly nice looking BRG 3000 Mk II
 '61 driver went for, I think, $13,750 and a very beautifully restored 63
 BJ7 went for $37,000. Not a really good Healey day. Only one car got
 bids higher than mine. >>

Bob,

Since I know how the folks at Barrett-Jackson can be, how much pressure did 
they put on you to lift the reserve.  They can get intense if not down right 
nasty.

Curt

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From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:19:39 -0500
Subject: Doors

Has anyone fit a set of the all aluminum, side curtain doors?  Were you
happy with them?

Bill Ruof

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 23:09:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Experience - Long

Yea, they did harp on that quite a bit.  Color was not discernable that well
on my set.

I view several hours of the auction on Fri and Sat.  My first exposure to
BJ.  I got the impression that the bidders there (not just Healey bidders)
were looking for real collector cars.  In the case of the lower end cars,
say $50000 or less, they had better be done to correct standards as well as
really well done.

Exception to this of course are the rods, one of a kind, racecars etc.
These had just better be done super well and have a "gimmick".

Just my uneducated, inexperienced observations.

Keith Pennell

> John Wilson of Oregon also restores one car every year just for this
auction,
> had #448, the BRG '62 3000 MkII BT7, which brought a disappointing $36K ,
but
> even the Speed Channel Commentators attributed this to the non standard
paint
> and interior color, mentioning something to the effect that if you want
the
> big bucks, the car had better be correct.  That's my plug for us concours
> types so let the flames begin.
>
> Curt Arndt - Who still has a big $hit eating grin on his face

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 21:25:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Experience - Long

CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> As far as the Austin Healeys this year, Kurt Tanner from Los Angeles, who
> restores several cars each year just for this auction, brought three cars.
> #383 the black '60 3000 MkI BT7 and #395 the Healey blue '67 BJ8 both very
> nice restorations which both sold for about $10K under what was expected.
> His other car, a red '56 BN2 which I did not see because it was at the RM
> Auction across town I believe may have sold for $43K, but I'm not certain.
>
> Enough for now, and I'm still eager to see what Bob Denton got for his Gold
> Level BN6.  Does anyone know yet?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt Arndt - Who still has a big $hit eating grin on his face

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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 16:19:25 +1000
Subject: Re: Gold level Healey on e-Bay...

| Gary Fuqua
| 66 BJ8
| 67 Tiger Mk II
| 78 Alfa Romeo Spider
| 79 MGB 
| 81 TR 8 EFI
| 74, 75, 76 TR 6
| 66 TR 4A IRS
| 62 TR 3B
| 61 TR 3A
| 76 Porsche 911S Targa
| 69 Triumph TR 6R Tiger
| 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
| 70 BSA lightning
| 69 Norton Commando  
| 01 Buell M2 Cyclone

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:31:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett Jackson x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 10:15 PM
Subject: Barrett Jackson x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"


> Well, my BN6 did not meet my reserve. The bidding got to $40,000 and
> stalled. So  I'm taking it home. A fairly nice looking BRG 3000 Mk II
> '61 driver went for, I think, $13,750 and a very beautifully restored 63
> BJ7 went for $37,000. Not a really good Healey day. Only one car got
> bids higher than mine.
>
>
> Bob Denton

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 09:41:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Barrett Jackson x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

I don't believe it did. I think it sold for $51k or $53k. It was a nice car
but not a concours car.

Bob

"Gary R. Cox" wrote:

> Bob...I was disappointed in the bid your car received. Why did the blue '67
> BJ8, lot# 395, sell for $60,000? Was alcohol involved?
>
> Gary R. Cox
> Bradenton, FL
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 10:15 PM
> Subject: Barrett Jackson x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
> > Well, my BN6 did not meet my reserve. The bidding got to $40,000 and
> > stalled. So  I'm taking it home. A fairly nice looking BRG 3000 Mk II
> > '61 driver went for, I think, $13,750 and a very beautifully restored 63
> > BJ7 went for $37,000. Not a really good Healey day. Only one car got
> > bids higher than mine.
> >
> >
> > Bob Denton

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From "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 09:02:41 -0800
Subject: Body Specs/measurements

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 12:22:23 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson Experience - Long

<< John Wilson of Oregon also restores one car every year just for this 
auction, 
had #448, the BRG '62 3000 MkII BT7, which brought a disappointing $36K , but 
even the Speed Channel Commentators attributed this to the non standard paint 
and interior color, mentioning something to the effect that if you want the 
big bucks, the car had better be correct.  That's my plug for us concours 
types so let the flames begin.   >>

I remember two or three years ago when John Wilson got $35,000 for a Healey 
for the first time. He was over the moon, as they say. Now, $36,000 is 
disappointing.  Sounds like the Healeys have bumped against their natural 
ceiling under the Jaguars.

Cheers
Gary

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:38:32 -0500
Subject: King pin thrust washers

I have misplaced the reference.

Does anyone know what to use, or have any experinace with this
conversion.

Thanks.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 11:52:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Body Specs/measurements

Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{)  '54 100  '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sierpina, Stan" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 10:02 AM
Subject: Body Specs/measurements


> We have just started the process of restoring both doors, rear wings,
sills, trim etc. and would like to obtain some specs or measurements
indicating the correct dimensions of this area in particular i.e. almost
like a detailed blueprint.  For example, what is the correct width of the
body area below the door?  Any assistance or web site lead would be
appreciated.  I can provide my fax number separately if anyone has
something.
> Many thanks...Stan '62 HBT7L/13855.

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:37:33 -0600
Subject: More on broken (leaking)  brakes

I think it must have been  a not yet fully seated seal around the piston and
that moving the pads and pistons back after removing the caliper and placing a
spacer in between the pads, must have allowed the seal to seat properly.


I had my friend stab the brakes repeatedly and then "stand on them" and it did
not leak, so, another problem appears to be solved.

The pedal is still not fully hard yet though and still requires some pumping
to get there even though there were no bubbles exiting the bleeders.

Brian

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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 14:58:39 -0500
Subject: Spiderman snip

While watching the Spiderman movie last night I noticed a quick reference to
Austin-Healey 3000s and Triumph TR-3s. They were depicted in a used car
advertisement in a newspaper Spiderman was perusing.

 ==  Alex in Maine
     1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
     Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
     AI2Q  .-.-.

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 12:07:35 -0800
Subject: RE: King pin thrust washers

Classic Choice in the UK sells these.  I have ordered a set, and am waiting
on delivery.  The parts should arrive any day now.

Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:msalter@precisionsportscar.com]
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 10:39 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: King pin thrust washers


Some time ago I came across someone selling a kit to convert the thrust
washers on the top of a king pin to needle roller type thrust bearings. 

I have misplaced the reference.

Does anyone know what to use, or have any experinace with this
conversion.

Thanks.

Michael Salter

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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 14:21:24 -0600
Subject: Texas Healey Roundup 2003

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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 17:17:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Healey Roundup 2003

Mighty fine collection of covers of Austin-Healey Magazine (published by the 
Austin-Healey Club USA )  you have there on your home page!  The white & 
black 100M, third row, third column, is mine, and the BRG & white BJ8, 
second row, second column, was my car, although I sold it in 1987.

I'll try to make it to the Round Up!

Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org



_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* 

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From "David Zuiderveld" <davzu29 at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:10:56 -0500
Subject: Barrett-Jackson sale

F.Y.I., the '67 BJ8, lot #395 you're discussing with Bob sold for $57,240. You
can checkout B-J's web site, they list the prices of the cars sold.

David

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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 17:15:55 -0600
Subject: Lucas Fog-Running Light Covers

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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 16:05:08 -0800
Subject: torn up exhaust

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From JH67HEALEY at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 18:41:12 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

Kind Regards,
John S. Hunt

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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 18:53:41 +0300
Subject: Re: Parking in gear


> Coulld it be that the handbrake on a Jag is less reliable than the
handbrake
> on a Healey?
>
> In this sometimes frost-bitten country the general practice is to park in
> 1st  gear to avoid the handbrake cable freezing solid. On the other hand
> when your car is hit while parked in gear it may cost you a gearbox.
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 3:33 AM
> Subject: Parking in gear
>
>
> > While watching the Barrett-Jackson auction I noticed, when they did some
> > interior shots of the Jag XKSS (BTW, I think it is still available on
> reserve
> > for $1.3 million if anyone is interested) that the car was parked in
what
> > appeared to be third gear.
> >
> > I always thought it was bad practice to do this.  Am I correct or
> > misinformed?
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 17:39:18 -0800
Subject: Body Repair Advice?

I value your advice and especially since we are both in the los Altos/ 
bay Area. You recommended to me once that I take my '56 100-Six to Mike 
O'Connor and it was good advice.

I had the misfortune of being rear-ended this weekend and so I need to 
find a Body shop/Restorer that I can trust knows their way around a 
Healey. The Insurance company has OK'd that I can pick the place or 
repair due to the nature of it being a Healey.

Please let me know your thoughts on this matter if you have a moment.
I would be most appreciative.

Regards
Rohan Marr


*******************************
Rohan Marr
('57 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Helouise'

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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 20:36:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

I was asking Bob's opinion on why the car sold for this, knowing it wasn't a
concours restoration. Maybe a concours restoration doesn't add appreciably
more value in the scheme of things...or in the case of lot #395...did Kurt
Tanner's name add to the value? What a great thread this could be!

Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL - "Go Buccaneers"
'67 BJ8

> > Gary,
> >
> > F.Y.I., the '67 BJ8, lot #395 you're discussing with Bob sold for
$57,240.
> You
> > can checkout B-J's web site, they list the prices of the cars sold.
> >
> > David

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From Tomsimkins at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 20:50:57 EST
Subject: Re: Body Specs/measurements

Thanks,
Tom


> <I frequently require the same info and I was pondering the possibility that
> some outfit such as Kilmartin or Jule must surely have all those
> measurements and it would seem that they would be willing to part with that
> info  Any other opinions out there? >
> 

< and would like to obtain some specs or measurements>

> <indicating the correct dimensions of this area in particular i.e. almost
> like a detailed blueprint.  For example, what is the correct width of the
> body area below the door?  >

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From Dave & Carrie Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 21:10:00 -0500
Subject: bj8 hardtop/help

Need Help
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 22:59:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Body Specs/measurements

Am not an mech engineer, but have heard from some reliable sources that
basically
1.    the main rails support drivetrain and
2.    the inner sills/outer sills support body
Therefore, if you can see holes in either the inner or outer sill, replace
them both!!!  It is likely that the rest of the sills are thinned out from
rust.  As many have noted befoe these cars rust from the inside out!!!

Instruction on how to do metal repair/replacement is quite lengthy and
certainly a set of chassis measures would be helpful.  However, there is
much more to it than just setting the chassis to a measurement and then
welding in new metal - load on the chassis and support of the chassis to
name two.  If you do not have the skills and experienced help in this, then
seek it out.  It could save you much pain and $ in the end.

My .02
Keith Pennell

> Please, please, yes!
> I'm new at this also, but just now have my BN4 down to the frame ready for
> sandblasting. It also was in a half torn apart stage when I got it. One
door
> wasn't on the car, but the other one hit the door shut pillar - even
without
> the finishing trim installed. I planning on replacing the inner & outer
sill
> on at least one side. It's not terribly bad, but does have holes rusted
thru.
> I really don't think it's weak enough to cause sag, but who knows.
Dimensions
> at the door openings would be very helpful.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
> > <I frequently require the same info and I was pondering the possibility
that
> > some outfit such as Kilmartin or Jule must surely have all those
> > measurements and it would seem that they would be willing to part with
that
> > info  Any other opinions out there? >
> >
>
> < and would like to obtain some specs or measurements>
>
> > <indicating the correct dimensions of this area in particular i.e.
almost
> > like a detailed blueprint.  For example, what is the correct width of
the
> > body area below the door?

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 23:05:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas Fog-Running Light Covers

I too am very interested in this.  With one driving light for my BN7 came a
baby blue Lucas lettered vinyl cover.  Would LOVE to find it a good mate!!!

I have seen them for sale new in red with Lucas imprint, but cannot recall
where right now.

Keith Pennell

> Does anyone have a source or contact for these covers in a color other
than
> black.
> Don Hambrick

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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 00:09:08 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

<< Yes David...I saw the '67 BJ8 final sale of $57,240 on the web. Don't 
forget
 the 8% buyers premium which would push the total purchase price to $61,819!! 
>>

Hi All,

Actually to inflate their numbers Barrett-Jackson publishes the selling price 
with the buyers premium already included.  The car closed out accross the 
block at $53K and the final total was $57,240!

Curt

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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 00:38:35 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

<< I was asking Bob's opinion on why the car sold for this, knowing it wasn't 
a
 concours restoration. Maybe a concours restoration doesn't add appreciably
 more value in the scheme of things...or in the case of lot #395...did Kurt
 Tanner's name add to the value? What a great thread this could be! >>

Gary and All,

While the car was very nice I don't know what level it was since it was never 
to my knowledge judged.  Plus I don't believe it was ever represented as 
concours car however in my humble opinion from what I saw it would probably 
won at minimum a high silver or gold.  I can name a number of well regarded 
Healey restorers who have built so called very nice drivers for clients that 
have later scored very well in concours judging.

Nothing personal against Kurt Tanner but I doubt that his name made any 
difference.  While some of us are familiar with his work, he hasn't put his 
name out there yet and to my knowledge, I've never seen him advertise.  Heck 
I'll bet there are even some on this list who are passionate about Healeys 
who may not know the names Fourintune, Absolutely British or Healey Surgeons 
let alone the men behind them.  

Just my opinion based on observation, but the people who usually buy at 
Barrett-Jackson are not your usual Healey enthusiast.  Many are people with 
who may have owned one at one time or who always wanted one and now have the 
means to buy one.  They read the price guides and this one looks very good so 
they but it.  What the sellers are counting on is the buyer to whom and extra 
$10K over the top selling price is no big deal as long as they get the car 
they want. 

Curt

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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 01:19:21 EST
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

<< Hi All,
 
 Actually to inflate their numbers Barrett-Jackson publishes the selling 
price 
 with the buyers premium already included.  The car closed out across the 
 block at $53K and the final total was $57,240!
 
 Curt >>

Hi Again,

I forgot to include a few other factors too.  Kurt Tanner will have to pay 
Barrett-Jackson a 10% sellers fee so the deducts another $5,300, total now is 
$47,700.  If this car went across the block during prime time and on The 
Speed Channel, Barret-Jackson charges up to another $1,200 premium which 
brings the price down to $46,500.  Assuming the he trailered the cars out 
himself (he brought three of them) and factor in hotel, food and 
miscellaneous items for a few days figure another $500 which brings us to 
$46,000.  

I'll stop here but you can do the rest of the math and figure the cost of 
buying a car and then restoring it to a high level could take a large bite 
out of the remaining $46K.  There is money to be made no doubt, but the 
margins can get slim quickly if things don't go right.

Any thoughts?

Curt

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 23:10:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Barrett-Jackson sale

If I could star over again i would pay $60,000 for my car (or the black one that
sold at Christie's) in a heart beat.
I would have less money in the car and more driving in the car. I would have
fewer trips of 2 hours to Eric's shop and back.
In other words it would be a benefit to me (and many others)

I don't have the talent, the time, or the space to build a gold level but I am a
huge enthusiast and support the marque and participate with the clubs. does that
make me not "a usual healey enthusiast"?

ron R
1965 BJ8

CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:

> Gary and All,
>
> Just my opinion based on observation, but the people who usually buy at
> Barrett-Jackson are not your usual Healey enthusiast.  Many are people with
> who may have owned one at one time or who always wanted one and now have the
> means to buy one.  They read the price guides and this one looks very good so
> they but it.  What the sellers are counting on is the buyer to whom and extra
> $10K over the top selling price is no big deal as long as they get the car
> they want.
> Curt

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 11:40:46 EST
Subject: Re: Body Repair Advice?

On another note have you received my message on the Golden gate web site?  We 
now have a new site up and are looking for a member that can help us out with 
it. There is a lot still to do and we would like to have some fun with it. 
Check it out and let me know if you can help out.  GoldenGateHealeys.com      
<A HREF="http://www.goldengatehealeys.com";>Golden Gate Austin Healey Club</A>

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity, also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys


From brouillette at attbi.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 16:51:12 +0000
Subject: Anyone have an Eastwood order going in soon?

Mike Brouillette
59 BT7

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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 12:52:32 -0800
Subject: healey3000 convertible top and misc____1960 BT-7



1- convertible top for BT7 (black canvas)- like new condition

2 -side curtains (right and left sides) with all attachment equipment -
very good condition

1 -convertible frame -  its looks old -perhaps an original - has surface
rust - easily restored

1 - seat back panel frame (wood) for the 2 rear passenger seats with
fitted upholstery piece - (blue vinyl)


Please contact me off the list.

Thanks.
Mark
Venice, CA

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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 16:36:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Body Repair Advice?

You are absolutely on the mark, my Morgan 4/4 was delivered this morning via
flatbed after 4.5 months in the body shop .  The repairs were excellent. The
original arrangement was three weeks maximum as seventy five percent of the body
had to be done. I asked to have the remaining quarter painted - no body work 
just
surface prep.  Since we haven't had  decent driving weather since early November
it became a non -issue, accept for the initial agreement. It was kind of neat to
drive it around in three or four circles on the driveway before storing it - at
the time a rather brisk -28C and the hood (top) was down!

Kind regards
Ed


HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:

> Rohan, sorry to hear about the wreck. You must be careful as to the shop that
> you send a old car to because most shops will end up putting these jobs on
> the back burner because there is a lot of hidden things that they don't
> expect. Also they depend on the new car repairs as gravy jobs and will push
> them in front of the Healey. We have been working recently with a new shop
> that specializes in restoration work and they take a very different look at
> body repairs to older/classic cars. They have been specializing in Mustangs
> for about 15 years, and I have just recently got them started in Healeys.
>
> On another note have you received my message on the Golden gate web site?  We
> now have a new site up and are looking for a member that can help us out with
> it. There is a lot still to do and we would like to have some fun with it.
> Check it out and let me know if you can help out.  GoldenGateHealeys.com
> <A HREF="http://www.goldengatehealeys.com";>Golden Gate Austin Healey Club</A>
>
>                            **************************
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity, also we have added a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif.  95205
> 209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
> Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
> BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
> ========================================
> Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys


From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 20:39:59 -0600
Subject: gearbox rebuild questions????

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Surgeon Bay, WI.

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From Dave Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:16:42 -0500
Subject: test

Dave

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:46:52 EST
Subject: dash top cover

       Thanks,

       Price
       60BT7

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from UK. if yes or knows of info THANK YOU. Sorry for the repeat. --------
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 00:03:25 -0500
Subject: Re: test / hardtop info

Dave Caudle wrote:

>What's up, I must be off list?
>
>Dave

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 23:03:28 -0800
Subject: Re: gearbox rebuild questions????

Geez - you must have tons of Healey gearbox bits flying all over the place!

I like beer, so here goes:  I had a hybrid gearbox in my BJ8 awhile back -
an early top-shift case with a 100-6 gearset in it, and a 28% overdrive
ratio.  The synchro rings were steel, from the BJ8.

At that time, the Healey gurus were pretty sure that the steel BJ8 rings
should not be used in the earlier boxes - something about the angle of the
cones, or the hardening, or both.  I never had a problem, but I only ran the
rig for a short while before deciding on a Toyota 5-speed conversion -
didn't really give it a long enough test.

There is an alternative synchro ring sold by David and Norman - I believe
it's a sintered bronze ring, Australian made - I have a set in my BT7 - they
seem to work well.

>From your laygear descriptions, it almost sounds like they can be re-used -
the damage sounds minimal.  A few of us here have been using repaired
laygears sourced through AH Spares in the UK and have had no problems.  You
need to check the inside bore of the gear as well.  Sometimes the bearings
get ahead of things and ruin the finish of the bore.  The laygears that you
say are substantially damaged should be repaired, or should have new ones
installed.

I would not suggest applying any heat to the gears - the tempering and
hardening of the steel could be compromised, and you wouldn't want assorted
shards and chunks zotting around inside your gearbox case and overdrive!

I can't see that what you are doing will really affect the car's value -
gear box mods are generally pretty transparent, or can easily be made so,
and a better performing gearbox is a plus for most people.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <rohan@marketocracy.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 6:39 PM
Subject: gearbox rebuild questions????


I'm in the middle of rebuilding, or attempting to rebuild four gearboxes.  I
have two center-shifts and two side-shifts.  All four with overdrives.  I'm
doing two sideshifts for my buddy who has a 1960 3000 as well as for my
current
car, which is a 63 BJ-7.  I have a spare center-shift from a BJ-8 with steel
syncros.  I'm really tempted to replace the standard BJ-7 center-shift
(brass
syncros) with the BJ-8 centershift (steel syncros) in my 63 BJ-7.  I do not
know if this will change the value of the car or whatever or even be
noticable
while driving.  I was wondering what others thought.  Also, I'd like to sell
the spare gearbox to finance the rest of my resto. as well as a keg frig.
for
my garage.
The other problem is, the condition of the laygears.  The BJ-8 seems ok.
The
BJ-7 has three teeth on the laygear that are slightly chipped.  Actually,
one
tooth is very, very faintly chipped and the other two are just faintly
chipped.  I know that this is a subjective description but it will have to
do
for now.  The chips are about one by two mm in size. I'm tempted to just
fill
the chips ith my MIG wire welder,...albeit very carefully.  Then grind and
sand
ever so carefully.  Atlernatively, I suppose that I could purchase a new or
refurbished laygear. However, Tom at Fourintune said that there has been a
hardeneing problem in the past and the laygears wear out in short order.
Thus,
why spend money that I do not have at the moment anyway (it inevitably comes
down to an economic decision).
The two side-shift gearboxes contain substantially worn laygears .  Just
rebuilding one would be fine for now,  what are my options here reguarding
laygears and rebuilding????
Also, I should mention that the first gears appear ok on all four gearboxes,
except for a slight rounding of the teeth where they engage the laygear.
Thus, if I do indeed obtain a new laygear, do I have to also get a new first
gear to obtain a cleaner and more complete meshing of gears????  As always,
thanks in advance to all that reply, your advice is greatly appreciated.  I
owe
you all lots of beers.

Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Surgeon Bay, WI.

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 05:33:25 -0600
Subject: Re: dash top cover

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 08:31:20 -0600
Subject: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

I have heard that silicone is more difficult to bleed.  Is there a particular
procedure that those using silicone brake fluid have found successful??

Please email me directly with responses.

Thanks,
Brian Collins

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 08:35:01 -0600
Subject: Speedo cable end broken off in trans--how to remove

Anyone have any tips on how to remove this??  I have tried using a magnet and
a pick tool to no avail.

Thanks, Brian Collins

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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 08:41:26 -0600
Subject: my new tie-rod boots from moss have disintgrated

The tie-rod end boots I got from Moss when I started this restoration 8 years
ago are already cracking.   I don't remember what I used to split them apart
at that time.

Can someone tell me the best way to split these apart,  I picked up a
splitting fork the other day, and don't see how it would work without tearing
up the lip for the retainer spring clip.

What is the best way/tool for this procedure

Please respond directly to me.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 01:43:48 +1100
Subject: Re: gearbox rebuild questions????

You said:  "three teeth on the laygear that are slightly chipped.  Actually,
one
> tooth is very, very faintly chipped and the other two are just faintly
> chipped.  I know that this is a subjective description but it will have to
do
> for now.  The chips are about one by two mm in size. I'm tempted to just
fill
> the chips ith my MIG wire welder"

Gears are made, then they are hardened.

Wear occurs over time. First - the case hardening wears - and typically -
this takes a long time. Once the case hardening wears - you are left with
steel - which no doubt - the engineers on the list will be able to tell you
more about. Suffice to say - unhardened steel wears much quicker than
hardened steel.

In my experience - it may take eg 60,000 - 90,000 miles [guess - your
mileage may vary] to wear through the case hardening on a gear. At that
point - there may be a 'slight wear mark' on a gear  During say the next say
[guess] 5,000 miles - from the point where a gear has just started to show
that it is "wearing through" the case (surface) hardening - and then is
allowed to run for another few thousand miles - the gear will then look like
it has been used in a taxi for a million miles with no oil. Once it wears
through the hardening - wear accelerates by a factor of tens of times
faster.

Same goes for camshafts. "Oh - its worn a bit on one lobe" - and then 5,000
miles later - the lobe is square and the lifter face is concave (rather than
convex) - and it suddenly looks like someone attacked it all with an angle
grinder

They reason that they 'put on a new gear' onto the end of clusters - i.e.
the straight cut first gear - is because the first gear (as it is straight
cut) has the smallest area of contact. Why doesn't the same amount of 'wear'
occur on 2nd or 3rd gear? (or even on the 'big' gear at the other end of the
cluster - the 'constant mesh' gear - which is ALWAYS being 'driven' ) -
because these are helically cut gears - and effectively distribute the wear
load over a larger driven area on each 'tooth'. Straight cut gears can take
more torque load - as they have a greater base area, making them stronger -
but they wear more quickly (less contact surface area). Hence the reason why
BN1's break their 'first' gear more often than any other Healey- a syncro
helical cut gear - and are  in reality '2nd' inside the box.

It is also the reason why are camshafts are 'reground' (and rehardened) -
they wear through the surface hardening.

My advice - the gears with marks on them are commonly referred to over here
as 'Wallaby Ted's big brother' (ie Roo Ted).

[quick Marsupial lesson - a wallaby looks like a kangaroo - but is smaller -
a Kangaroo is typically bigger]

If you use gears which are worn visibly through the case hardening -then
only consider doing so in a concours 'trailered only' type car which will
never be driven either in anger or driven often. Then its unlikely to let
you down or annoy you (with the noise).

Hardening is the key to reliability & longevity

Hope this helps

Chris


----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>
Cc: <rohan@marketocracy.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:39 PM
Subject: gearbox rebuild questions????


> I'm in the middle of rebuilding, or attempting to rebuild four gearboxes.
I
> have two center-shifts and two side-shifts.  All four with overdrives.
I'm
> doing two sideshifts for my buddy who has a 1960 3000 as well as for my
current
> car, which is a 63 BJ-7.  I have a spare center-shift from a BJ-8 with
steel
> syncros.  I'm really tempted to replace the standard BJ-7 center-shift
(brass
> syncros) with the BJ-8 centershift (steel syncros) in my 63 BJ-7.  I do
not
> know if this will change the value of the car or whatever or even be
noticable
> while driving.  I was wondering what others thought.  Also, I'd like to
sell
> the spare gearbox to finance the rest of my resto. as well as a keg frig.
for
> my garage.
> The other problem is, the condition of the laygears.  The BJ-8 seems ok.
The
> BJ-7 has three teeth on the laygear that are slightly chipped.  Actually,
one
> tooth is very, very faintly chipped and the other two are just faintly
> chipped.  I know that this is a subjective description but it will have to
do
> for now.  The chips are about one by two mm in size. I'm tempted to just
fill
> the chips ith my MIG wire welder,...albeit very carefully.  Then grind and
sand
> ever so carefully.  Atlernatively, I suppose that I could purchase a new
or
> refurbished laygear. However, Tom at Fourintune said that there has been a
> hardeneing problem in the past and the laygears wear out in short order.
Thus,
> why spend money that I do not have at the moment anyway (it inevitably
comes
> down to an economic decision).
> The two side-shift gearboxes contain substantially worn laygears .  Just
> rebuilding one would be fine for now,  what are my options here reguarding
> laygears and rebuilding????
> Also, I should mention that the first gears appear ok on all four
gearboxes,
> except for a slight rounding of the teeth where they engage the laygear.
> Thus, if I do indeed obtain a new laygear, do I have to also get a new
first
> gear to obtain a cleaner and more complete meshing of gears????  As
always,
> thanks in advance to all that reply, your advice is greatly appreciated.
I owe
> you all lots of beers.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
> Surgeon Bay, WI.

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:16:54 EST
Subject: Re: gearbox rebuild questions????

The problem with the hardness on the rebuilt cluster gears was about many 
years ago when they were first available. We have been using them for 15+ 
years and have one fail. 

Any chips on the gears will cause a noise as well as continue to wear. This 
ends up with metal pieces in the gear box and overdrive causing other 
problems. Also the gears must be a perfect fit or they will not mesh 
correctly. When you start welding on the gear and grinding to shape you will 
distort the gears and they may not fit correctly causing a noise and 
excessive wear.

So my advice is that unless you just like pulling the transmission out and 
rebuilding it again later on, I would say that you should absolutly install a 
rebuilt cluster gear. The first gear is not always a problem but if there is 
any chips in that gear then I would recomend replacing that one to.

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys


From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:35:05 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

<< All my leaks are now fixed and I have bled my brakes with no bubbles at 
any of
the bleed nipples.  I still have to pump the pedal 3-6 times before I get a
firm brake pedal.
 >>

This is somthing that you will have with silicone fluid, not usually that 
many time but a soft pedal will always be there. Because the silicone fluid 
will suspend air in the fluid that will be very dificult to get rid of.

 Check you rear brake adjustment if it is loose that will cause this. Also if 
you have a car with  front drums thay must be adjusted correctly otherwise 
they will cause a soft pedal.

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys


From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 12:48:37 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

<< I have heard that silicone is more difficult to bleed.  Is there a 
particular
procedure that those using silicone brake fluid have found successful??

Please email me directly with responses. >>

If anyone has good ideas, please share them with the list.
Thanks
Gary

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 12:54:48 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

<< This is somthing that you will have with silicone fluid, not usually that 
many time but a soft pedal will always be there. Because the silicone fluid 
will suspend air in the fluid that will be very dificult to get rid of. >>

Actually, it isn't that silicone fluid suspends air which causes the softer 
pedal, but simply that silicone fluid is more compressible than glycol fluid. 
 In practice, that doesn't make any difference in the operation of the brakes.

However, it is true that air bubbles come out of silicone fluid more slowly, 
so one major point is that you don't want to get them in there in the first 
place. So be very careful when you move the bottle around that you don't 
shake it up. Someone on this list suggested it be handled like costly 
champagne. You might also want to let the can sit for a day or two before 
using it so that any bubbles from transit can come back out of the liquid.

Cheers
Gary

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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:32:31 -0800
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

Congrats - no leaks!  You're getting there.

I'm going to copy this to the list - as per Gary's request.

David Nock's suggestion to make sure all the drum brakes are properly
adjusted is a good one - I'll bet that is the bulk of the problem on the
'pumping up' situation.  If the pedal is firm, and holds firm after you
'pump up', there is probably no air in the system.

What I usually do is drive the car normally for a few miles, say 100 or so,
and re-bleed to make sure, and there is usually a tiny bit of air still
left.  Another lister suggested being very gentle with the supply of fluid -
let it rest - pour it carefully, etc. etc. - all of which helps.

David makes the point that silcone fluid has a different feel to it - he's
right - I don't find it a problem.  It is worth noting that the brake servo
in cars so equipped tends to 'mask' the different brake feel - I can't
really tell any difference in my BJ8, but I can in my non-servo tri-carb -
it's just not a problem for me.  IMHO, the benefits oughtweigh the
disadvantages.  Be aware that not everyone would agree!

FWIW, I have found a bleeder called the EZBleed very useful - it's a
pressure bleeding device that uses low pressure air from a tire to
pressurise the reservoir through a cap adaptor supplied with the kit.
Really works for me, and many friends have borrowed it with success.  M**S
has it in their catalogue.

Keep on truckin' ------------  Earl



----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 6:31 AM
Subject: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid


All my leaks are now fixed and I have bled my brakes with no bubbles at any
of
the bleed nipples.  I still have to pump the pedal 3-6 times before I get a
firm brake pedal.

I have heard that silicone is more difficult to bleed.  Is there a
particular
procedure that those using silicone brake fluid have found successful??

Please email me directly with responses.

Thanks,
Brian Collins

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 14:30:34 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

This is rather extreme, but effective. We use this technique in filling
hydraulic pressure transfer lines with Silicone.

Silicone can withstand tempertures up to 400 0 to 7500 depending on version.
We use a clean dry beaker and cap it. We draw a vacuum on the beaker, then
heat it on a hot plate to 250 - 3000. This vacuum will eliminate all the air.
It takes awhile. We use the beaker so we can see if any bubbles are still
being released.

You could then draw a vacuum on each line at each caliper. Draw the silicone
from the beaker (or vessel) directly, which is connected to the line that is
normallly attached to the fluid reservoir.

Of course when you have all the tubing, shut-off (tube clamp) valves and
other equipment  it's easy. But you are assured of vapor free silicone.

A small vacuum pump, clear tubing (rated for vacuum) and assorted connectors
/ fittings would be required.

Every this must be rated for vacuum !!!!   If not, it implodes.

Regards to all,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 14:49:51 -0600
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

Kind regards
Ed



Editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/22/03 8:39:21 AM, HLYDOC@aol.com writes:
>
> << This is somthing that you will have with silicone fluid, not usually that
> many time but a soft pedal will always be there. Because the silicone fluid
> will suspend air in the fluid that will be very dificult to get rid of. >>
>
> Actually, it isn't that silicone fluid suspends air which causes the softer
> pedal, but simply that silicone fluid is more compressible than glycol fluid.
>  In practice, that doesn't make any difference in the operation of the brakes.
>
> However, it is true that air bubbles come out of silicone fluid more slowly,
> so one major point is that you don't want to get them in there in the first
> place. So be very careful when you move the bottle around that you don't
> shake it up. Someone on this list suggested it be handled like costly
> champagne. You might also want to let the can sit for a day or two before
> using it so that any bubbles from transit can come back out of the liquid.
>
> Cheers
> Gary

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 16:30:30 -0500
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

    I think the 'sponginess', or fade, when using silicone based hydraulic
fluid is due to the fact that silicone does suspend air more readily, even
microscopically, and the air does compress, and cause the fade. This is
aggravated by heat.

                                                                    CB

    ps: We sell vacuum pumps!

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 17:38:57 -0500
Subject: RE: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

In the master cylinder used on the car (Sprite) the outlet was right in
the very bottom of the tank. The fluid had been in the car for 2 years
and we suspect, but were unable to confirm, that a very small droplet of
water which had accumulated in the master cylinder tank found its way
into a front caliper. Because DOT 5 does not absorb water this made the
effective boiling point of the fluid 100C. 

We theorized that this was the problem because the pedal came back
completely after about 10 minutes. 

This scared the hell out of me so I converted back to conventional
fluid. 

I'm quite sure that DOT 5 is perfectly safe IF it is changed regularly
and steps are taken to ensure that NO condensation can enter the system.

The system used in modern cars of building a diaphragm into the master
cylinder lid strikes me as an ideal solution.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Charley Braum
Sent: 22-Jan-03 4:31 PM
To: N0040@aol.com
Cc: Healey-List
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

    Actually, in my experience, there is not much difference in
'compressibility' between different liquids, at least when testing
outside
of a laboratory, as in driving.

    I think the 'sponginess', or fade, when using silicone based
hydraulic
fluid is due to the fact that silicone does suspend air more readily,
even
microscopically, and the air does compress, and cause the fade. This is
aggravated by heat.

                                                                    CB

    ps: We sell vacuum pumps!

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 17:46:07 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

<< Well this is most interesting, I believe that the difference in compression
between DOT3/4 and DOT5 is minimal, the viscosity of DOT3/4 varies from
manufacturer ranging from 2.0  to 2.5 cST @ 100C while DOT5 is 2.15 cST @ 
100C,
also the relative densities are similar quite similar which also would lend
support to the minimal difference in compressibility.  DOT3/4  usually has a
boiling point just under 260C while DOT5 is in excess of 260C operating at 
higher
temperatures one might see a slight difference.  >>

Sorry, I got tangled up in my words on the compressibility. What I should 
have said (which is what I've been told, but I'm not a techie; I majored in 
history in school) is that the bubbles in silicone fluid are larger than 
those in glycol fluid -- apparently all brake fluids have some bubbles -- and 
that's where the difference in compressibililty comes from. No question that 
silicone gives a softer feel with more brake travel before the clampers 
tighten.

On the other hand, as noted last week, when new and dry, silicone does have a 
very slight advantage on boiling points over glycol, but when old and wet, 
silicone remains quite effective, with very little deterioration in boiling 
point, while the boiling point of glycol is significantly lower.   Hence the 
note that an incontrovertible fact is that glycol-based fluid should be 
changed every season on race cars, and at least every two years for street 
cars.

Cheers
Gary

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 17:07:39 -0600
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

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From A2Garrison at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 19:40:57 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

I don't recall which model you have, but if it has 4-wheel drums then ...

It took me a long time to realize that the factory workshop manual recommends 
that prior to bleeding, the rear brakes are adjusted to fully lock the wheels 
and the front brakes are slackened to allow the wheel cylinders to collapse.

If you study the piping of the front brakes you will see that the hydraulic 
fluid is fed at the top and bleed from the bottom. Since this is the reverse 
of all logic, you have to minimize the volume in the wheel cylinders to have 
any chance of removing air from the system. Of course, after bleeding, you 
have to readjust the brakes per the manual.

I had a soft pedal that required 2 pumps to obtain a hard pedal until I bled 
the system per the manual. Now I have a solid (relatively) pedal on the first 
application, even with silicone fluid.

Alan Garrison
BN6

In a message dated 1/22/2003 9:32:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
bc1@sbcglobal.net writes:

> I have heard that silicone is more difficult to bleed.  Is there a 
> particular
> procedure that those using silicone brake fluid have found successful??

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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 20:01:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedo cable end broken off in trans--how to remove

Hope it works for you.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Austin Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 8:35 AM
Subject: Speedo cable end broken off in trans--how to remove


> When I went to install my new(er) speedo right angle drive (courtesy of
Jerry
> Walls used parts bin) I found that it would not slide into the drive end
on
> the trans.  As the end is broken off the right angle drive I removed,  I
> imagine that it is still in the tranny.
>
> Anyone have any tips on how to remove this??  I have tried using a magnet
and
> a pick tool to no avail.
>
> Thanks, Brian Collins

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 19:03:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

The little light bulb above my head just flashed on!

That probably explains in part why my early BN1's hand
brake doesn't work very well.... my rear brake slave
cylinders are not fully collapsed and the hand brake
mechanism is only engaging partially.  I'll have to
get into my brakes again and follow this
procedure.....  It should fix several of the braking
problems on my BN1!

I love this list... it's really great!!!

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- A2Garrison@aol.com wrote:
> Brian
> 
> I don't recall which model you have, but if it has
> 4-wheel drums then ...
> 
> It took me a long time to realize that the factory
> workshop manual recommends 
> that prior to bleeding, the rear brakes are adjusted
> to fully lock the wheels 
> and the front brakes are slackened to allow the
> wheel cylinders to collapse.
> 
> If you study the piping of the front brakes you will
> see that the hydraulic 
> fluid is fed at the top and bleed from the bottom.
> Since this is the reverse 
> of all logic, you have to minimize the volume in the
> wheel cylinders to have 
> any chance of removing air from the system. Of
> course, after bleeding, you 
> have to readjust the brakes per the manual.
> 
> I had a soft pedal that required 2 pumps to obtain a
> hard pedal until I bled 
> the system per the manual. Now I have a solid
> (relatively) pedal on the first 
> application, even with silicone fluid.
> 
> Alan Garrison
> BN6

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 00:14:42 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 07:39:13 -0800
Subject: BJ8 seat cushion


I am sure there was reference in the archives to drilling the seat cushion
foam and trimming to match contours on the new foam available, but I can't
find it. Will a squashed and worn out bottom cushion still be an adequate
example for any cutting needed? I am just doing a repair on my old original
seat covers.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 16:15:27 +0000
Subject: Sandblasting

       I'm thinking of picking up a small sandblasting cabinet to be able to 
do some cleanup of the piles of parts I have started acumilating.  Does anyone 
have recommendations of the dos and don'ts of blasting and what to buy?

Mike B
59 BT7

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:55:06 -0800
Subject: RE: BJ8 seat cushion

There is a nice article by the Nocks on page 204 of the 2002 Updated Issue
of Tech Talk on softening the seat by drilling and how to do it.
Ron
67 BJ8

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 09:01:07 -0800
Subject: RE: Sandblasting

I picked up a blast cabinet at Harbor Freight for about $70.  You need to be
sure you have an air compressor that will handle the required CFM and PSI.
Check your compressor, and match it to a cabinet that suits your needs.  You
might also consider what you will do with your parts once they are clean, as
bare metal will start rusting quickly if not painted, powder coated, or
plated.

Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610

-----Original Message-----
From: brouillette@attbi.com [mailto:brouillette@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 8:15 AM
To: 'healeys'
Subject: Sandblasting


Guys,

       I'm thinking of picking up a small sandblasting cabinet to be able to

do some cleanup of the piles of parts I have started acumilating.  Does
anyone 
have recommendations of the dos and don'ts of blasting and what to buy?

Mike B
59 BT7

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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 12:15:09 -0500
Subject: RE: Sandblasting

The radio hams (Amateur Radio operators) amongst us are almost as innovative
as Healey owners.   :-)

Check out http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~weinfurt/sb.html for details of Radio
NS8O's homebrew sand blaster.



 ==  Alex in Maine
     1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
     Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
     Radio AI2Q  .-.-.

>Subject: Sandblasting

>Guys,

       I'm thinking of picking up a small sandblasting cabinet to be able to
do some cleanup of the piles of parts I have started acumilating.  Does
anyone
have recommendations of the dos and don'ts of blasting and what to buy?

Mike B
59 BT7...........................

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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 12:26:46 EST
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

<< he radio hams (Amateur Radio operators) amongst us are almost as innovative
 as Healey owners.   :-)
 
 Check out http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~weinfurt/sb.html for details of Radio
 NS8O's homebrew sand blaster.
  >>
Make sure you buy plenty of the 3/8 nipples they use as the venturi. On most 
good blaster these are made of ceramic or carbide.

Most home operations don't have the cfm on there air compresors to handle a 
blaster. So plan on waiting for the comp. to catch up.

Try looking at some swap meets for some cheap ones.

Don
NTAHC 

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 11:59:22 -0800
Subject: Extra Healey body, trailer, furniture? What to do?

Earlier in the month I purchased the Complete 100-6/3000 Austin Healey body
from Joe down in Orange, as I needed a front shroud, and possibly some other
body panels for my restoration.  At present the chassis and two nearly
complete bodies are over in Lodi, where the restoration of the chassis is
almost complete, and work is now switching to the body.  The best of the
body panels will be used on my car and restored/repaired as required.  Vary
soon, I will need to decide what to do with the remaining body panels.

The rear shroud from Joe is for a 2+2 and it's in great shape.  As my car is
a BN7 2 seater, I don't need this shroud, and could part with it now, if I
don't use it for a trailer or couch.  This shroud is sitting at home in my
garage, and not in Lodi.  I had already purchased a replacement BN7 shroud
since my old shroud was toast, except for the upper portion (trunk lid
forward).  My old front shroud needs a new nose, and some other minor work.
The doors and fenders, trunk and hood, that will be left over will all need
some work (rust along the bottoms...etcetera), but not knowing what panels
will be left over, I can't comment on them just yet.

When in Tahoe last year I recall seeing one or two Healey trailers, and
thought I might want to build one and would like to know if anyone has
pictures of these, and/or any relevant information on building one.  I also
have seen the e-mails about the Healy Furniture, and could go this route, a
couch made from the rear shroud fenders and trunk might be cool (like a
rumble seat).  A Healy couch would be an expensive piece of furniture, and a
bit eccentric (might not even work with a Healey), but it sure would be a
conversation piece if it did work.  I could keep the extra body for parts,
but garage space would be an issue.

Ideas?

Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610

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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 12:10:12 -0800
Subject: Re: FW: BJ8 seat cushion

Cheers,
John

Freese, Ken wrote:

>
>I am sure there was reference in the archives to drilling the seat cushion
>foam and trimming to match contours on the new foam available, but I can't
>find it. Will a squashed and worn out bottom cushion still be an adequate
>example for any cutting needed? I am just doing a repair on my old original
>seat covers.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8

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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 15:14:15 -0800
Subject: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

In spite of all this searching, I could find no reference to the
Austin-Healey London Black Cab FX4 model, built in 1967. This must be a
one-off, and thus extremely valuable:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400895406

Check it out, I'm sure many will want to bid on this rare car.......

;)

Doug Ingram
Victoria BC

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 18:42:04 EST
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model


> In spite of all this searching, I could find no reference to the
> Austin-Healey London Black Cab FX4 model, built in 1967. This must be a
> one-off, and thus extremely valuable:
> 

Doug--

Value is increased by its being one of its being an FX4--M spec model.  Only 
several hundred thousand were made.  Unfortunately it did not reach reserve 
at Baret-Jackson and is being put on EBAY to reach a better class of 
buyer....

Best--Michael

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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 16:06:17 -0800
Subject: RE: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

I e-mailed this over to one of the guys I work with who moved here from
England recently, and he e-mailed back a bunch of different links for London
Taxies.  Here's one of them.

http://www.londontaxiexports.co.uk/Default.htm

Frank

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Ingram [mailto:dougi@shaw.ca]
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 3:14 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: previously unknown Austin-Healey model


Well, I searched the internet, and I've looked through all my marque
references. This includes Bill Emerson's "The Healey Book", which until now
I understood contained information about every model that had anything to do
with the name "Healey".

In spite of all this searching, I could find no reference to the
Austin-Healey London Black Cab FX4 model, built in 1967. This must be a
one-off, and thus extremely valuable:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400895406

Check it out, I'm sure many will want to bid on this rare car.......

;)

Doug Ingram
Victoria BC

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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:49:29 EST
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

> Well, I searched the internet, and I've looked through all my marque
> references. This includes Bill Emerson's "The Healey Book", which until now
> I understood contained information about every model that had anything to 
> do
> with the name "Healey".
> 
> In spite of all this searching, I could find no reference to the
> Austin-Healey London Black Cab FX4 model, built in 1967. This must be a
> one-off, and thus extremely valuable:
> 

The unique nature of this 1967 Austin-Healey Taxi was overlooked in my book.  
Mea Culpa.  Perhaps if you look closely on the top shelf of my model car 
collection you will find a 1/43 model of the FX4.  The model is there 
because, in fact, there are parts that are interchangeable..  But... I 
certainly don't think it belongs on EBay as a 1967 Austin-Healey!

Bill Emerson
Author, and lover of Austin-Healey cars that do not look like taxi cabs.

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 19:51:44 -0500
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

    Are you sure this might be a true factory 'M' or just a LeMans? I can't
tell if it has a properly louvered bonnet or not!

    Just asking, that's all.


CB

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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 20:03:14 -0800
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

"Golding, Frank" wrote:

> List,
>
> I e-mailed this over to one of the guys I work with who moved here from
> England recently, and he e-mailed back a bunch of different links for London
> Taxies.  Here's one of them.

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 20:14:36 EST
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model


> a true factory 'M' or just a LeMans? I can't
> tell if it has a properly louvered bonnet or not!
> 

Charlie--

Unlike the 100's the FX4-M series' louvers are "virtual" and do not appear 
except under infra-red light.

Michael  

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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:35:29 -0800
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model

Doug

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: previously unknown Austin-Healey model


> And I wrote to the seller telling him he was the dumbest one on Ebay. I
was
> pissed off about something else at the time.

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From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 18:43:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 3000,block end plate gaskets

 Anyone know a source for the paper gaskets between the engine block and the 
front and rear end plates on the 3000 engine?  Also the packing at the front 
and rear crankshaft bearing blocks.  thanks 

John Sawyer  65 / 67 BJ8 



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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:46:06 -0600
Subject: Re: 3000,block end plate gaskets

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 00:29:47 EST
Subject: Re: 3000,block end plate gaskets

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
 
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++  
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:58:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 3000,block end plate gaskets

Just about any Healey Parts supplier can sell you this
stuff separately or in a conversion gasket set.  It's
very common.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- john sawyer <jrsawyer2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello listers;
> 
>  Anyone know a source for the paper gaskets between
> the engine block and the front and rear end plates
> on the 3000 engine?  Also the packing at the front
> and rear crankshaft bearing blocks.  thanks 
> 
> John Sawyer  65 / 67 BJ8 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 11:53:43 -0500
Subject: Racing Mirror?

I have a driver's side bullet style door mirror on my BJ8 (was installed
when I bought it) that has a Talbot-Berlin logo on it. 
I have not seen these on other Healeys but someone told me they were
commonly put on racing sports cars in the 60's.
Anyone have any info on these mirrors?


Scot
'66 BJ8

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 12:27:58 EST
Subject: Re: FW: BJ8 seat cushion

What a great documenting job. They say pictures are worth 1000 words, thanks 
for your 11,000 word essay.

I'm about to tackle the same job, and your results look terrific.
I hope it's OK to print your pictures for reference.

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 13:22:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Racing Mirror?

I'm not sure what model the mirror is but it's good to know replacement
parts are out there. The center portion of the mirror is showing it's age
with brown flecks in the center and needs a new lens plus retaining rings.
Thanks for the web info....

Scot

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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 10:37:09 -0800
Subject: Re: FW: BJ8 seat cushion

>John,
>
>I hope it's OK to print your pictures for reference.
>
No problem. If the photos don't print out very well let me know and I 
can email you or anyone else a higher resolution set. If anyone has any 
tips for proper seat installation please let us know here on the list. I 
felt like my seats came out o.k. but not perfect. Seems like an 
additional layer of very thin padding would have filled the covers 
better in some areas but my experiments in adding "stuffing" caused a 
"lumpy" top surface and I abandoned it.

Cheers, John

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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 13:27:36 -0800
Subject: 9/11/2002 - Tony Parsons Article

Terry

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:30:09 EST
Subject: Restorations, values, etc. 

But here's a question--Putting aside for the moment the relative scarcity of 
300's (I think there wre only a little over 3000 built in both 
configurations):  If a primo 300 SL Gullwing brings a miillion bucks and a 
primo BJ8 brings perhaps $60K, is this ratio in market values reflected in 
the number of hours spent in bringing a car up to 100 points, assuming that 
"Concours" were the benchmark? Or do restoration shops that do MB's get four 
times (or 20 times) the hourly rate than that of a respected Healey restorer? 
 Do parts cost that much more--do you have to fabricate parts for such a car 
versus going to parts suppliers for one of ours?  Bottom line, is restoring a 
high-end car a better investment than one such as a Healey, which seems to 
have a relatively low cap on value, Barrett-Jackson reserves and owners' 
expectations notwithstanding?

Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans

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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:34:29 -0500
Subject: e-mail address

-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV

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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 17:13:14 EST
Subject: Re: Restorations, values, etc.

<<  Bottom line, is restoring a 
high-end car a better investment than one such as a Healey, which seems to 
have a relatively low cap on value, >>

Yes.  Next question?

Cheers
gary

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From "bob dyar" <bobdyar at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 14:56:18 -0800
Subject: starter solenoid

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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 15:08:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Bumper/Overider Bolt Size

Does anyone happen to know the correct bolt size and thread for the bumper to 
bracket and overider to bumper? Thanks.

John - BJ7



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From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 16:49:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: end plate gaskets, Thanks

John  65 / 67 BJ8



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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 20:33:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Restorations, values, etc. 

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 18:52:50 -0700
Subject: Re: end plate gaskets, Thanks

Thanks,

Dave Russell
BN2

john sawyer wrote:
> Thanks for all the help. The gaskets will be here when I need them.
>By the way the Moss conversion kit does not include these. 
> 
> John  65 / 67 BJ8

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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 21:50:27 -0600
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

Thanks Norm,   Mark


There a tool that is designed to clamp off a brake
> hydraulic hoses available at some auto. stores , you will need 3 clamps .
> Clamp off ALL three flexable hoses , your brake pedal should be ROCK
SOLID,
> take off one clamp at a time and feel the brake pedal each time , the
clamp
> you take off that causes your brake pedal to suddenly go soft is the wheel
> where you problem is . Now check why .Norman Nock British Car Specialists
> Stocton CA

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 19:09:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: end plate gaskets, Thanks

I'm not sure where the nomenclature came from, but a
conversion gasket set typically includes all paper,
cork, felt, and other gaskets associated with assembly
of the engine block.  Head gasket set is for
everything associated with the head.  It seems the
moss conversion set doesn't include everything it
should though...

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Guess I'll have to ask a dumb question, what is a
> "conversion set", how 
> is it different? Convert what to what?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave Russell
> BN2
> 
> john sawyer wrote:
> > Thanks for all the help. The gaskets will be here
> when I need them.
> >By the way the Moss conversion kit does not include
> these. 
> > 
> > John  65 / 67 BJ8

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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 20:06:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: end plate gaskets - couldn't let it die...

When I processed my gasket order I did the best I
could. I am sure I errored by including to many
duplicates. I then sent the order with instructions to
normalize the set and remove duplication.  They
couldn't do it.

I sent the same instructions to another vendor.  They
made a few corrections (adds and deletes) and
processed the order.    

My suggestion is to go with an experinced Healey shop
for your gaskets.  There is nothing more frustrating
then finding out you don't have a 50 cent gasket when
you are ready to put it together.

I feel better!

Dean BN7 (took it to work today - sunny and warm in So
Cal)
------------------------
It seems the
> moss conversion set doesn't include everything it
> should though...
> 
> Alan
>

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 23:22:49 EST
Subject: Re: what is the best way to bleed brakes with silicone fluid

* * * * * * * * * * 
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along 
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work.  In easy to 
understand writing.  220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767  
www.britishcarspecialists.com

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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 20:25:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: sandblasting

__________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 08:37:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Bumper/Overider Bolt Size

Rear bumper to overrider, through bracket and bumper, HBZ0612  3/8"  NF
x 1 1/2" long  hex head zinc plated. 2 off

Rear bumper to bracket outer  37H9659 (special chrome head bumper bolt.
2 off.

Front and rear bumper bracket to frame HBZ0611  3/8"  NF  x  1 3/16 long
hex head zinc plated. 8 off.

Front bumper to bracket HZS0606  3/8"  NF  x  3/4" long hex head zinc
plated. 4 off

Front bumper to overrider  HZS0610  3/8"  NF  x  1 1/8" long hex head
zinc plated. 2 off


Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Kuzman
Sent: 24-Jan-03 6:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Bumper/Overider Bolt Size

Listers,

Does anyone happen to know the correct bolt size and thread for the
bumper to bracket and overider to bumper? Thanks.

John - BJ7

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 08:42:56 -0500
Subject: RE: starter solenoid

I don't think it matters as long as the cable that comes from the
battery is on the same post as the wire that goes off to the harness.

I would tend to fit the cable from the battery nearest to the bulkhead
panel as there is probably less likelihood of it shorting out on the
engine back plate when you jack up the engine to tighten the front
crankshaft nut without remembering to turn off the battery ;-). 

Can you imagine anyone doing a silly thing like that.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of bob dyar
Sent: 24-Jan-03 5:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: starter solenoid

I am replacing the starter solenoid on my BN4 and I can't tell which
terminal
the battery cable goes on. the pictures in Anderson and Moments book
seem to
show the battery terminal is on the left side as you look at it, however
the
one I took off had the battery cable attached to the right one. Can
someone
shed some light on this for me? or does it matter for my driver ?
thanks for the help

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 09:58:51 -0500
Subject: TEST please delete

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:43:16 -0500
Subject: Wood rim wheel

Have a wood rim wheel, 3 Al slotted spokes which came with a car I bought some
time back.  It is in need of resto.  The wood is laminated, 12 rivets on the
perimeter, and 9 screws attaching the hub.  Overall dia 16 3/4 inches.  Can
anyone identify it based on that?  No logos that I can see.

It has rather deep pits in some areas of the spokes.  Any suggestions as to
how to eliminate these?

Keith Pennell

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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 12:57:22 -0600
Subject: Re: sandblasting

Sand it too heat producing to use on body work. Any ideas?

Actually, sand does fine if you know what you're doing.  Yes, sand friction does
produce a lot of heat and that is where the experience (or lack of same) comes
in.  You could actually burn your way through a door panel.  I've never used the
plastic media but the principal is the same:  something comes out of the gun at 
a
high rate of speed and bangs the paint, rust, etc., off an item.  It probably is
more forgiving than sand but friction is still involved and that means some 
heat.

--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO

Pop. 528 (New census numbers)

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From linwood rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:25:39 -0500
Subject: Front hubs distance piece removal

If one purchases new distance pieces does the ring or collar to which I 
referred earlier come with it or do I need to use my old one? I don't 
see a reference to the ring in the parts book or in anybody's catalog?

Thanks.
Lin Rose

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:53:08 -0500
Subject: Brake stuff for sale

This is a for sale ad.  Hit DELETE if you are offended.

All parts are sold as is, where is.  All are used unless noted and no warranty
of any kind is given.  Shipping will be at buyer's cost.  Checks and MOs will
be accepted.  I have tried to be as accurate and complete in the descriptions
and as fair in pricing as I can.
ALL ITEMS SOLD FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED.

2    brake pads, need cleanup, 8/32 lining remains for plenty of more miles
$5

4    brake shoes, need cleanup, 5/32 min.  Use as is or for relining.
$20

2    brake shoes, rear, originals.  Use for relining.
$8

1    brake rotor, BN7, BT7, BJ7, and early BJ8 I think.  Cannot remember
$20
            how to tell.  Freshly turned to 3/8 thick.

2    brake dust covers, L and R, BJ8 26705 on, rusty and pitted, would clean
$50
            up OK for a driver

3    brake drums, rear, BN4-BJ8, only need clean up
$30 ea

2    brake hose brackets for calipers, L and R, for later BJ8 I think
$4

2    retaining pins, brake pads, rusty, orig round head
$2

4    retaining pins, brake pads, orig flat head, good
$6

1    connector, front, 5 way with brake light switch, needs cleanup
$30

1    connector, rear axle, needs cleanup
$10

4    antisqueal shims, later BJ8, never used, homemade from stainless
$5

1    adjuster assembly with tappets, rear, good
$20

Contact me off list
Keith Pennell

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:58:55 -0500
Subject: Brake stuff for sale-revised

Listers, I am clearing out some parts to make more storage space.

This is a for sale ad.  Hit DELETE if you are offended.

All parts are sold as is, where is.  All are used unless noted and no warranty
of any kind is given.  Shipping will be at buyer's cost.  Checks and MOs will
be accepted.  I have tried to be as accurate and complete in the descriptions
and as fair in pricing as I can.
ALL ITEMS SOLD FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED.

2    brake pads, need cleanup, 8/32 lining remains for plenty of more miles
$5

4    brake shoes, need cleanup, 5/32 min.  Use as is or for relining.
$20

2    brake shoes, rear, originals.  Use for relining.
$8

1    brake rotor, BN7, BT7, BJ7, and early BJ8 I think.  Cannot remember
$20
            how to tell.  Freshly turned to 3/8 thick.

2    brake dust covers, L and R, BJ8 26705 on, rusty and pitted, would clean
$50
            up OK for a driver

3    brake drums, rear, BN4-BJ8, only need clean up
$30 ea

2    brake hose brackets for calipers, L and R, for later BJ8 I think
$4

2    retaining pins, brake pads, rusty, orig round head
$2

4    retaining pins, brake pads, orig flat head, good
$6

1    connector, front, 5 way with brake light switch, needs cleanup
$30

1    connector, rear axle, needs cleanup
$10

4    antisqueal shims, later BJ8, never used, homemade from stainless
$5

1    adjuster assembly with tappets, rear, good
$20

14    springs, brake shoe return, need clean up
$2 ea

Contact me off list
Keith Pennell

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:11:20 EST
Subject: Re: Brake stuff for sale-revised

<< This is a for sale ad.  Hit DELETE if you are offended. >>

No Worries.

The list is for Healey stuff. Personal classified's are OK (see rules when 
you all signed on)

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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:27:44 EST
Subject: Fluid reservoir Dowty washers

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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:42:13 -0500
Subject: C. Rubino

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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 19:04:06 EST
Subject: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

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From "Lance" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:04:03 -0500
Subject: Battery cable

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:28:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> Plastic media or glass beading is preferable used
> because unlike sand it does 
> not etch the metal.......therefore none of your
> metal goes away.......walnut 
> shells also make a good blasting media because they
> shatter on impact and 
> take paint and rust with them.....but soda blasting
> with water not only 
> removes the paint and rust but removes itself by
> washing away and neutralizes 
> acids on your panels.......Scotty

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:38:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wood rim wheel

It sounds like to me you have a Moto-lita steering
wheel of some kind.  It's possible you have a motolita
wheel from a jaguar or something.  Do the spokes
evenly tri-sect the wheel, or is there some offset? 
If it trisects the wheel you may have an original
derrington of some kind.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Hi Listers,
> 
> Have a wood rim wheel, 3 Al slotted spokes which
> came with a car I bought some
> time back.  It is in need of resto.  The wood is
> laminated, 12 rivets on the
> perimeter, and 9 screws attaching the hub.  Overall
> dia 16 3/4 inches.  Can
> anyone identify it based on that?  No logos that I
> can see.
> 
> It has rather deep pits in some areas of the spokes.
>  Any suggestions as to
> how to eliminate these?
> 
> Keith Pennell

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:13:24 EST
Subject: Re: Wood rim wheel

<< Can
> anyone identify it based on that?  No logos that I
> can see. >>

Have you removed the hub from the wheel? A Mota Lita made replice should have 
a logo behind the front mounting plate.

Rick
San Diego

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:25:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Wood rim wheel

In response to some Qs which were asked:
1.    I will try to get out a photo or two soon to help in identification.
2.    No name inscribed anywhere on the wheel or hub that I can find.
3.    The three spokes evenly trisect the wheel.
4.    Do not need any names of someone who can replace the wood.  Intend to
do that myself.

Thanks for all the replies.
Keith


> Hi Listers,
>
> Have a wood rim wheel, 3 Al slotted spokes which came with a car I bought
some
> time back.  It is in need of resto.  The wood is laminated, 12 rivets on
the
> perimeter, and 9 screws attaching the hub.  Overall dia 16 3/4 inches.
Can
> anyone identify it based on that?  No logos that I can see.
>
> It has rather deep pits in some areas of the spokes.  Any suggestions as
to
> how to eliminate these?
>
> Keith Pennell

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 22:35:13 -0500
Subject: Chrome stuff for sale

This is a for sale ad.  Hit DELETE if you are offended.

All parts are sold as is, where is.  All are used unless noted and no warranty
of any kind is given.  Shipping will be at buyer's cost.  Checks and MOs will
be accepted.  I have tried to be as accurate and complete in the descriptions
and as fair in pricing as I can.
ALL ITEMS SOLD FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED.

2    mouldings, instrument panel, both have some pitting, need rechroming
$10 ea

2    headlamp rims, need rechroming, no rivet, for early cars?
$20

1    Jaguar XKE Series 2 knockoff, right, some chrome flaking
$10

1    trunk handle with escutcheon, lock is #919, escutcheon needs plating
$20

1    trunk hinge, orig right BJ8, minor pitting, needs one stud
$10

1    trunk hinge, orig left BJ8, pitting on long piece
$10

2    trunk hinges, orig early cars, 1 stud missing, both need rechroming
$10

4    side curtain wing nuts, fair condition
$1 ea

1    fender mirror, right, Lucas clone flat glass, Phillips screws,
$5
              back scratchy, stem needs chrome

1    fender mirror, not stem, Lucas clone flat glass, 4.5 diameter, very
shiny!     $5

4    fender spears, FLASH, 2L and 2R, stud missing on two,
$5
              pitting on each, F to P

3    knockoffs, left, 12 tpi, ears dented some, scratchy, fair condition
$10

1    grab handle for dash with escutcheon, pitted, needs rechroming
$10

1    locking gas cap with key, chrome pitted, "ANTI-SURGE" and
$5
               "VENTED" on underside

3    bracket, check strap with 1 screw (item #34, pg 182 of Moss), need
cleanup  $5

2    socket and nut kits for sidecurtain, fair to good condition
$10

2    finisher, rear quarter panel for BJ7-BJ8, L and R, orig, some pitting,
$20
                need rechroming

1    wiper arm with 10 inch blade, Anco, for BJ8?, model SS, very nice!
$20

1    switch bezel plate, BJ8, some scratches
$15

1    bow socket finisher, for BN6 and BN7, orig, needs anodizing
$10

2    door seal caps, both lefts, numerous scratches in anodizing
$2 ea

6    tear drop retainers for rear shroud, fair
$2 ea

1    staple, for spare tire strap, needs plating
$2

2    door handles, exterior for BN4-BT7, one broken spring, look rough but
work!  $15

2    strikers for doors, minor wear, need cleanup
$35

1    door handle, interior for BN4-BT7, missing large escutcheon, very shiny!
$10


Contact me off list.
Keith Pennell
23602

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:43:18 EST
Subject: Re: Battery cable

* * * * * * * * * * 
Tech Talk by Norman Nock
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along 
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work.  In easy to 
understand writing.  220 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767  
www.britishcarspecialists.com

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:59:18 -0500
Subject: Shocks for sale

This is a for sale ad.  Hit DELETE if you are offended.

All parts are sold as is, where is.  All are used unless noted and no warranty
of any kind is given.  Shipping will be at buyer's cost.  Checks and MOs will
be accepted.  I have tried to be as accurate and complete in the descriptions
and as fair in pricing as I can.
ALL ITEMS SOLD FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED.

1    shock arm
free

1    rear shock, right, BN1-early BJ8, Armstrong orig, has firm action,
$60
               holes good!

1    rear shock, left, BN1-early BJ8, Armstrong orig, seized,
$10
                 holes enlarged 1/8

1    rear shock, right, late BJ8, Armstrong orig, with shock links,
$30
                leaks, action a bit soft

2    front shocks, L and R, Armstrong orig, holes good, no leaks, action soft
$30 ea

2    front shocks, L and R, Armstrong orig, holes good, no leaks,
$50 ea
              action a bit soft

Contact me off list.
Keith Pennell
23602

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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:15:18 -0600
Subject: Re: sandblasting

Rick Ollah
54 BN1 ( well most of it )

Marty Filardi wrote:

> There are less expensive ways to sand blast, and less
> expensive blasters that work OK. You can use a
> cardboard box as a cabinet, which is disposable, and
> takes up no room in your garage. Or you can just balst
> a few parts in your driveway with a minimal mess of
> sand everywhere that can be swept up.
>   I am interested in different blasting media and
> where to purchase it aside from the Eastwood supply.
> Sand is easy to find. What I am looking for is plastic
> media that can be used on body work. Where do you find
> this stuff and how much is it? There are places that
> platic media blast an entire body for $400, that is
> suppose to be great for primer and paint. Sand it too
> heat producing to use on body work. Any ideas?
>
> __________________________________________________

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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 23:36:02 -0600
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

Rick Ollah
54 BN1 ( well most of it )

Blue One Hundred wrote:

> Sand blasting has a couple drawbacks - the microscopic
> pitting work hardens the surface of steel and can
> result in microscopic surface cracking in areas under
> some stress over time (like next to a bolt), which can
> then cause premature rusting and failure of the metal
> as well.  I'd stay away from it if you can.  I
> sandblasted my chassis 15 years ago and it has a few
> (albeit minor) problems as a result
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> > Plastic media or glass beading is preferable used
> > because unlike sand it does
> > not etch the metal.......therefore none of your
> > metal goes away.......walnut
> > shells also make a good blasting media because they
> > shatter on impact and
> > take paint and rust with them.....but soda blasting
> > with water not only
> > removes the paint and rust but removes itself by
> > washing away and neutralizes
> > acids on your panels.......Scotty

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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 01:52:11 EST
Subject: Re: 100-SIX Side Curtains Available

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 08:25:22 EST
Subject: BJ8 back panel for sale

My BT7 came with some interesting extraneous pieces. One of which is a back 
panel for a BJ8. I have been trying feverishly to find the place it goes in 
my BT7, but finally decided to give up. It will need new upholstery but if 
anyone needs this I will take pictures of it and take off the covering to 
make sure the frame is good. 

       Price Tuley
       60 BT7

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:52:57 -0800
Subject: Dormant O/D

Anyone know why this happens?  The O/D is other wise reliable.

bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************

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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 14:42:03 EST
Subject: BJ8 backrest again

       Price

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From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:25:34 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: BJ-8 Registry (Att. Steve Byers)

  http://www.team.net/posting.html

Reply to author, not me.

mjb.
----

------- Start of forwarded message -------
     From: "Chris Fordham" <consult@island.net>
     Subject: BJ-8 Registry (Att. Steve Byers)
     Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:21:30 -0800

Hi Steve
            Thought I would let you know that BJ-8 /L/ 284900 no longer
resides in rainy B.C. but is now mostly topless and enjoying the
sunshine of San Fransico.

                                                      Chris
------- End of forwarded message -------

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From Nassau4u at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 15:31:50 EST
Subject: Floor Jack

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 14:34:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 12:49:48 -0800
Subject: Looking for muffler band clamps

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From tm-c at gmx.net
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 21:55:34 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Looking for pictures of seatbelt fittings in BJ8

I wanted to finish the winter break by fitting seatbelts in my Bj8.

Judging from previous mails from the archives some of you have already done
so. I would appreciate if you could mail me pictures of how you fitted your
belt. I am looking at installing 3-way belts but have not yet decided if they
should be the recoil or the fixed type.

Thanks for any help.
Thomas Cremer
468 BJ8

-- 
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more  http://www.gmx.net +++
NEU: Mit GMX ins Internet. Rund um die Uhr f|r 1 ct/ Min. surfen!

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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:19:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor Jack

If by that you mean that when the jack is under the Healey you can't lift the 
handle high enough because of interference from the car, just use something 
short as a handle in order to get things started, that is, until the car is 
high enough to use the regular handle.  
-- 
John Miller 

If you sow your wild oats, hope for a crop failure.

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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:37:06 EST
Subject: Re: Floor Jack

(1) Use more than one jack. I have a selection in the garage (none 
expensive). A couple of scissors jacks and a small floor jack will get almost 
any point of the car high enough to get stands underneath it so you can work. 
Use a scissors jack on the frame to get enough clearance to operate the floor 
jack under the differential.

(2)  If your floor jack is small enough (and a Healey doesn't need a monster) 
you can reach in (CAREFULLY - wheels blocked, in gear, etc.) and work the 
jack in the (greater) space under the rear seats, for example.

(3)  If you just need more lift, try inserting something between the fully 
collapsed jack pad and whatever you are lifting. For years I used a 
five-pound block of lead. It took the shape of whatever was needed and never 
gave a hint of slipping.

Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556 (to be rolling again in 2003)

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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:48:07 -0800
Subject: Big Bore Exhaust System comments & questions

1) The replacement muffler Moss sells is a straight-through glasspack and
sounds different from the stock muffler. Louder with more of a raaap at high
rpm--a less sophisticated, more in-your-face sound, which I like, as I drive
along setting off car alarms. With side pipes (which I used for a few
weeks), this muffler is painfully loud and requires earplugs at all times
and has a midrange resonance period that will make your skull ring even with
ear plugs. The stubs are closer together than the stock muffler, and _will
not_ fit the tailpipe Moss sells that's supposed to go with it. I sent the
tailpipe back, but the muffler is what's different from OEM, not the
tailpipe.

2) The 1-1/2" diameter stainless "big-bore" tailpipe Healey Spares sells
(got it through Healey Surgeons) is well made and flexible enough to fit
over the stubs on the back of the Moss muffler. However, if you have it
placed so the tight part goes through the frame cutout behind the muffler,
then the welded tailpipe mounts are an inch or so forward of where they
should be in order to fit the middle and rear stock rubber mounts. I had to
move the rubber mount just behind the muffler to bolt to the floor instead
of the frame. Same with the rear mount--it now attaches to a u-bolt clamp
rather than the welded stud mount.

3) the finish on the ss tailpipe is good enough to easily buff out.

4) I restored the front downpipes by cutting and grinding the old flex pipe
off, then brazing new flex pipe on. I used 1-7/8" flex stainless tailpipes
which are available at several auto parts stores in my area. The original
curved downpipes are no longer available.

5) the original stock muffler is a straight-through canister with louvers in
the through pipes which channel the gas into the guts of the canister.

6) the cutout in the frame is the limiting factor in mounting the exhaust
system--everything else goes forward and backward from there. Mounting the
system should start there. There may be more front and back play in the
stock 1-1/4" system. If you're considering restoring the downpipes as I did,
I'd suggest mounting the tailpipe and muffler, then mounting the downpipes
(without the flex extensions), then cutting the flex pipe to fit.

Questions--is the original style muffler available anywhere? Are the
tailpipe stud mounts available loose anywhere (I know thats a long shot)?

Seems like the suppliers would do well to sell these pipes with adjustable
clamp-on stud mounts, or with loose mounts you could weld to fit.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6

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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 14:32:19 -0800
Subject: Floor jacks

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:58:48 EST
Subject: Super bowl

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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:54:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Floor jacks

I use a scissors jack from a Chrysler K-car.  It collapses down to about 2
inches high and easily goes under my BJ8, even with a flat tire.   The handle
is pretty robust.  I use it with a piece of 2 x 4 between the jack pad and the
lift point on the car to spread out the load and avoid damaging the frame.
Maybe you could find something similar in a salvage yard.

Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
havelock, NC
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Barry Fahlstedt
  To: healey list
  Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 5:32 PM
  Subject: Floor jacks


      The floor jack I received with my Healey is a scissors jack with the
only
  markings
  being "Princess Auto" on the box.  Hopefully someone can recommend a better
  jack.
  The handle keeps falling out (tho I could probably use some baling wire to
  keep it in) and the handle is fragile and hard to turn.  I would hate to
have
  to use it while on the road.
  Any suggestions other than live with it?
  Barry
  BJ7, Sequim, WA

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 19:30:20 EST
Subject: Re: Looking for pictures of seatbelt fittings in BJ8

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 19:45:33 EST
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 19:10:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

After winter storage I've never noticed the problem that Bob is referring to, 
mind you living near neither of the four coasts may be the solution -wink! Also 
I use 30w oil , changed every two years which may also make a difference.

Kind regards
Ed

Jerry Wall wrote:

> dthe manuals refer to this as ROS ( reluctant od syndrome ).  the cure, 
>especially for those living on the left coast,  is never let your healey 
>remain dormant for as long as a month.  another possible cause is if you have 
>discussed a possible oriental 5speed transplant within hearing distance of 
>your healey, it could be another form of ROS.
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>  >
>  > After my BJ8 has been sitting for an extended period (a month or more),
>  > the O/D doesn't engage on the first try (but usually on the second).
>  >
>  > Anyone know why this happens?  The O/D is other wise reliable.
>  >
>  > bs
>  > *****************************************************
>  > Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net
>  > (home)
>  > San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>  > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
>  > *****************************************************

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 20:18:53 EST
Subject: Halftime....

Best--Michael Oritt (Go Raiders)

<A HREF="http://www.lubespecialist.com/coolant/coolant.htm";>Click here: Higher 
Fuel Efficiency Reduced Emissions Higher Compression</A> 

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 20:28:31 EST
Subject: Re: Superbowl / Raider nation

Go Raider's

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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 20:41:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Superbowl / Raider nation

Some of us East coasters remember the win over Washington and now Tampa has 
a defensive coordinator from NC State.

Go Tampa

At 08:28 PM 1/26/2003, you wrote:
>Come on Raider nation lets get them rolling
>
>Go Raider's

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:00:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

It's likely that the contacts on the overdrive relay
have some surface corrosion, or the leads to the OD
solenoid are not connecting perfectly.  Just be sure
to run the car in and out of OD a few times and then
it should start catching on the first try.  Both my
healeys tend to sit for extended periods of time and
this is a very common symptom of sitting still :-(. 
After I start using it for a while the OD will start
to kick in reliably.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8



--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> After my BJ8 has been sitting for an extended period
> (a month or more),
> the O/D doesn't engage on the first try (but usually
> on the second).
> 
> Anyone know why this happens?  The O/D is other wise
> reliable.
> 
> bs
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell                                         
>   bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.                           
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)
>        PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:16:39 -0800
Subject: Dash Pad Cushon Thickness?

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:16:59 -0800
Subject: Dash Pad Cushon Thickness?

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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:17:04 -0800
Subject: Dash Pad Cushon Thickness?

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:22:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

bs

*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************


> Bob Spidel . Smell the oil on your transmission dip stick if it has a very 
> strong smell its 90 w , this will give you a o/d that comes in slow the first 
> time you use it, change it to the same oil you use in your engine . Norman 
> Nock .

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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:56:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Halftime....


bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell                                            bspidell@pacbell.net 
(home)
San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
*****************************************************

> Anyone ever hear about or use this stuff (waterless coolant)?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (Go Raiders)
>
> <A HREF="http://www.lubespecialist.com/coolant/coolant.htm";>Click here: 
>Higher Fuel Efficiency Reduced Emissions
Higher Compression</A>

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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 22:15:59 EST
Subject: SUPER BOWL WINNERS

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 22:35:13 EST
Subject: Re: SUPER BOWL WINNERS


> How about those BUCS
>                                            
> 

The traders creamed the raiders.....

Congratulations--Michael

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 21:53:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Restorations, values, etc.

Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 01:02:28 EST
Subject: Re: Dormant O/D

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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:22:13 +1100
Subject: Happy (belated) Burns Day to all the Scotts..

Chris
______________________________________

Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia

http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 23:13:35 -0800
Subject: panel lights

Drove from LA to San Diego for our Healey club annual super bowl
chili contest. shirt sleeves down to SD but brutal cold on the way back
after sun down.
The temperature dropped below 70 F! Brutal. I had to put a jacket on.
I even thought about stopping the car to open the hot water to the heater.

Question:
when the headlights are on and the panel lights are off, are any gauges
supposed to be  lit?
ron
1965 BJ8

266 miles, 12 US gallons. 22 MPG with O/D and 3.54 rear end.
miles assumes 226 indicate and 18% error per the slip from the
stupid speedo repair shop.

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From Curtis Hoines <biggeek at shaw.ca>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 23:16:39 -0800
Subject: Distributor problems

Thanks for any help
Curtis Hoines  
62 BT7
Vancouver BC Canada

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 01:37:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Halftime....

tom
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Looks like ethylene glycol with some additives.
> 
> 
> bs
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell                                         
>   bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.                           
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)
>        PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
> 
> > Anyone ever hear about or use this stuff
> (waterless coolant)?
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt (Go Raiders)
> >
> > <A

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 03:06:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Distributor problems

Boy, that sounds pretty bad.  You probably need to
have the distributor rebushed.  This can be done at
your local machine shop.  

For what it's worth, however, if your dist. was
humming/whining chances are a re-bush may not fix the
distributor - your tach drive & housing (the thing
that the distributor sits in) might need some
servicing as well..... take them both to your machine
shop for inspection.....

Several healey suppliers sell new or rebuilt
distributors, and in general they are not all that
expensive considering its an old car.  I'd suggest
getting a new (or rebuilt) distributor from your
healey supplier.  Please let me know if you need some
suggestions for who to buy from... as I've done some
research on this.

If you need a new tach drive or housing, you'll
probably have to either rebuild yours or buy one used
from a healey specialist.....

Take them all out first to inpect and then let us know
what you find.  Be sure to mark where the
camshaft/distibutor dog gear and the distributor mate
so that you can reassemble it without changing the
timing of the car (i.e. reassemble with everything in
the same postion as when you pull it off the car).

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- Curtis Hoines <biggeek@shaw.ca> wrote:
> I'm having a problem with my Healey BT7.  The last
> ime I drove it there was a humming sound coming from
> the engine and it wouldn't idle unless I kept on the
> gas.  I checked it out and it seems to be the
> distributor, Ipoped the cap and the drive shaft
> moves around a bit.  Any ideas on what this would be
> and how to fix it.  If it's a drive saft themn were
> could I buy one?  The Moss cataloge doesn't list one
> for sale.
> 
> Thanks for any help
> Curtis Hoines  
> 62 BT7
> Vancouver BC Canada

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 03:13:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Halftime....

I think a cool show would be if they got the North
Koreans to put on one of their colorful stadium shows!
 Time for us to put the "hermit kingdom" to some good
use, this nuclear psycho stuff is getting old... 

--- THOMAS FELTS <tfelts@prodigy.net> wrote:
> When I saw the topic I thought you were talking
> about
> the Super Bowl Halftime show.  That, in my opinion,
> was awful!  Good thing the game was great---the
> commercials wern't bad.

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 03:21:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

My experience has been that sandblasted surfaces rust
faster and more thoroughly than surfaces that are
either newly manufactured (or those with paint removed
by other less abrasive methods).  I know these cars
were supposed to have a shelf life of 7 years when
they were designed in 1952... but everything you can
do to make them last longer really helps.....

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

 
--- cyfied <cyfied@uslink.net> wrote:
> Fifteen years? These cars didn't last fifteen years
> from new before needing some
> kind of repair like stress cracking from normal
> shock and torsion. Consider the
> design, (cowl shake) type, and gauge of material
> used in construction. I doubt
> your problems are a result of normal sand blasting.
> Unless you used # 10 shot! My
> oppinion comes from 20 years as a collision and
> restoration owner.
> 
> Rick Ollah
> 54 BN1 ( well most of it )
> 
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> 
> > Sand blasting has a couple drawbacks - the
> microscopic
> > pitting work hardens the surface of steel and can
> > result in microscopic surface cracking in areas
> under
> > some stress over time (like next to a bolt), which
> can
> > then cause premature rusting and failure of the
> metal
> > as well.  I'd stay away from it if you can.  I
> > sandblasted my chassis 15 years ago and it has a
> few
> > (albeit minor) problems as a result
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> > > Plastic media or glass beading is preferable
> used
> > > because unlike sand it does
> > > not etch the metal.......therefore none of your
> > > metal goes away.......walnut
> > > shells also make a good blasting media because
> they
> > > shatter on impact and
> > > take paint and rust with them.....but soda
> blasting
> > > with water not only
> > > removes the paint and rust but removes itself by
> > > washing away and neutralizes
> > > acids on your panels.......Scotty

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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:09:11 -0700
Subject: Fw: Dormant O/D

Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
 '59 AH :{)  '54 100  '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
 ----- Original Message -----

"" sitting for an extended period (a month or more),""


the O/D doesn't engage on the first try (but usually on the second).
 Anyone know why this happens?  The O/D is other wise reliable.

> > bs
> > *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.                            robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)       `56 100M (Dad's)        PP/ASEL
> > *****************************************************

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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 07:11:28 -0800
Subject: RE: panel lights

Ron, on my 67 BJ8, under the situation you describe, no gauges are lit. I
can't speak for the generator light, turn indicators or the high beam
indicator.
Sincerely,
Ron

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:42:01 -0500
Subject: cook brake wire

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 11:38:14 EST
Subject: Re: panel lights

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 09:06:19 -0800
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031

----- Original Message -----
From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 4:04 PM
Subject: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE


> Plastic media or glass beading is preferable used because unlike sand it
does
> not etch the metal.......therefore none of your metal goes
away.......walnut
> shells also make a good blasting media because they shatter on impact and
> take paint and rust with them.....but soda blasting with water not only
> removes the paint and rust but removes itself by washing away and
neutralizes
> acids on your panels.......Scotty

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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:06:51 +0000
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE


> Scotty could not provide any further details on "soda blasting".  Is anyone
> familiar with this process?  Is it for real?  Can anyone give some detail on
> the process?  What kind of soda ?  How much soda?   How much water?  What
> pressure?  Special equipment?  Etc.?
> 
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Hoylehouse@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 4:04 PM
> Subject: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE
> 
> 
> > Plastic media or glass beading is preferable used because unlike sand it
> does
> > not etch the metal.......therefore none of your metal goes
> away.......walnut
> > shells also make a good blasting media because they shatter on impact and
> > take paint and rust with them.....but soda blasting with water not only
> > removes the paint and rust but removes itself by washing away and
> neutralizes
> > acids on your panels.......Scotty

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:52:35 EST
Subject: Re: panel lights

In my '67 BJ8, you can have the headlights on, and no gauge lighting. Gauge 
lighting can only be switched on if headlights are on.

I also have the map lights, which were operated off the panel (gauge) lights, 
but I'm going to switch to a 3-position "headlight" type switch, so I can 
have gauge lights without map lights.

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:56:20 EST
Subject: Re: cook brake wire



                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:01:00 -0500
Subject: cook wire?

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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:13:02 EST
Subject: Re: cook wire?

<< Hi again what size fuse should I use.And how many other circuits need 
fuses. Also the red wire that burnt up to, if not into the harness what luck 
do you think I have that it did not  melted into any other wires.Power was on 
only a short time, enought to see smoke.   Thanks Steve 58bn4 100-6 >>


We install a 35 amp inline fuse in the red wire directly on the the back of 
the headlight switch.  If the out side of the harness looks ok and is only 
showing minor melting or theinsulation in som,e places. You probably are 
going to be ok. I would check the connections at the lights you probably have 
a problem there, since that is what you just worked on. Then install the fuse 
and try your lights.

                           **************************

Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You 
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a 
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.

David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way  
Stockton Calif.  95205
209-948-8767  fax 209-948-1030  email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at       <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 

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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 15:27:08 EST
Subject: Re: cook wire?


> We install a 35 amp inline fuse in the red wire directly on the the back of 
> the headlight switch. 

35 amps will cover 400 watts.  That's not a fuse--that's a nail!

Michael

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From jerry adams <cjerryadams at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 12:50:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

Jerry Adams 
Rare 1956 BN2

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:06:55 -0500
Subject: Re: cook wire?

                                                                CB

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 16:37:18 -0600
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 18:28:07 -0500
Subject: Wire, Thanks

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From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 17:55:49 -0800
Subject: Overdrive questions

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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:24:50 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions

If the switch is the proper one, and is correctly installed in the dash, when 
it is "up" the overdrive is engaged, when it is "down" the overdrive is 
disengaged. Therefore, "down" would be the normal position for all driving 
except high-speed cruising. I cannot ever recall an occurrence of the 
clicking and switch motion you describe.

My recollection is that to engage OD you flip the switch up and SLIGHTLY lift 
your foot on the gas, for a smoother upshift. To exit OD, you push the switch 
down, and the next time you push the gas pedal down about halfway, you will 
"downshift" to normal 4th (or 3rd). Some drivers engage OD, then immediately 
put the switch down, knowing that they will then have a burst of acceleration 
available for passing, etc., later, simply by pressing down. This was 
sometimes known as "preselecting" the lower gear.

>From other postings here, it is my understanding that inadvertently operating 
the car in reverse while OD is engaged will cause immediate, and severe 
damage, so I'd think it is imperative you find out the actual status. 

Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556

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from self-destructing?
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:19:51 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

    Just a thought,

                                                            CB

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:37:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive questions

I didn't see where you ever tried it with the switch in the up position. 
  Down should be off & nothing would click when you move the shifter. It 
sounds like the switch is mounted upside down.

Dave Russell
BN2

Pat & Gary Rice wrote:
> Having received my 61 Healey BT7 from a restoration in Illinois about a
> month ago, I'm trying to get reacquainted with it , and work out problems I
> keep running across.  I've owned this car since 1971, but haven't driven it
> for about 25 years, because I tore it down then to begin my own restoration
> which got stalled.  First question I need answered concerns the manual OD
> switch.  I don't have the Eustachen around the switch and I don't remember
> the on position or the off position of the switch. Could someone help me on
> this?  The switch was in the down position when I received the car.  When I
> turn the ignition switch on, and I move the gear shift lever from side to
> side in the nuetral position, the overdrive setting lever moves and clicks.
> This does'nt sound right to me.  I disconnected the wire from the switch to
> the solenoid and that stopped the movement of the setting lever.  Does this
> indicate that my switch on the transmission is bad, or is the manual OD
> switch in the on position?  I have driven the car less than 20 miles around
> Ventura, and I was unable to get it into overdrive.  I hope this doesn't
> mean an internal problem with the OD.  I do have service manuals for the
> Healey with wiring diagrams etc., but I'm not too hot on electrical items.
> Any help will be much appreciated.                   Gary,61, 3000, BT7 

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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:10:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Crank pulley



__________________________________________________
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:16:53 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

Amperage (current flow) will be the same at any point in the conductor, so 
the fuse can go at either end, or in the middle.  

-- 
John Miller, N4VU

In the land of the dark the Ship of the
Sun is driven by the Grateful Dead.
                -- Egyptian Book of the Dead

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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:43:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Restorations, values, etc


.........Bottom line, is restoring a high-end car a
better investment than one such as a Healey, which
seems to have a relatively low cap on value,
Barrett-Jackson reserves and owners' expectations
notwithstanding?
......

__________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 19:44:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Crank pulley

A great big adjustable wrench works very well, or if
you have the appropriate sized spanner that's also a
good bet.  

If the engine has few tens of thousands of miles on it
and the car is out of gear, you may also simply apply
some pressure to the fanbelt and then push it through
its rotation and this should work.  This works best if
the spark plugs have been removed, then it is VERY
easy to spin.

The "fangs" on the dognut are more or less useless as
the radiator is in the way, so you can't turn it with
a hand crank like you can on a triumph....

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8



--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> What do you guys use to turn the crank by hand? That
> nut holding the pulley is pretty big and it has
> "fangs".
> Thanks
> Jorge
> BJ8 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up
> now.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:48:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Crank pulley

I use a 1 11/16" by 3/4" drive socket which I converted to a 1/2" drive.

Dave Russell
BN2

Jorge Garcia wrote:
> Hi,
> What do you guys use to turn the crank by hand? That
> nut holding the pulley is pretty big and it has
> "fangs".
> Thanks
> Jorge
> BJ8 

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:51:57 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

    If the fuse fails in the middle, are the ends still OK?

                                                                        CB

    In the land of the Grateful Dead, the ship is driven by sex, drugs and
rock-n-roll!
                            --Um, The book of Garcia-y-Vega

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:02:50 -0700
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

Dave Russell

John Miller wrote:
> 
> Amperage (current flow) will be the same at any point in the conductor, so 
> the fuse can go at either end, or in the middle.  

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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 04:26:40 +0000
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

What?! There's a difference between the US and UK fuse ratings?  Why didn't I 
know this? Is this true or a supposition? Please tell me more.  Thanks.

-
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-

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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 23:52:31 EST
Subject: Re: Battery cable

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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 23:23:22 -0600
Subject: Re: SANDBLASTING ALTERNATIVE

Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)

Blue One Hundred wrote:

> Rick -
>
> My experience has been that sandblasted surfaces rust
> faster and more thoroughly than surfaces that are
> either newly manufactured (or those with paint removed
> by other less abrasive methods).  I know these cars
> were supposed to have a shelf life of 7 years when
> they were designed in 1952... but everything you can
> do to make them last longer really helps.....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8

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From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:28:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Battery cable

SJNNOCK@aol.com wrote:

> >From the LUCAS service manual use 61 strands of #20 S.W.G for long runs we
> carry it in stock PVC or JUTE covered Norman Nock

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:32:02 -0700
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

Didn't you ever wonder why the Healeys used seemingly large fuses,35 & 
50 amp?

The UK rating is the current required to blow the fuse. The US rating is 
the current that the fuse will carry long time without blowing. They 
come out about the same.

Dave Russell


fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> "15 amp US rated fuse is equivalent to about a 25 to 30 amp UK rating"
> 
> What?! There's a difference between the US and UK fuse ratings?  Why didn't I 
> know this? Is this true or a supposition? Please tell me more.  Thanks.
> 
> -
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Carson, CA

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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:19:45 -0800
Subject: RE: Floor Jack

Best,
Greg
67 BJ8

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Can anyone recommend a floor that allows sufficient stroke in the
> "full down"
> position to lift the differential?  My Sears jack does not allow enough
> stroke from this position.
> Thanks.

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:21:03 -0800
Subject: Re: panel lights

rdavies wrote:

> Question:
> when the headlights are on and the panel lights are off, are any gauges
> supposed to be  lit?
> ron
> 1965 BJ8
>
> Ron, on my 67 BJ8, under the situation you describe, no gauges are lit. I
> can't speak for the generator light, turn indicators or the high beam
> indicator.
> Sincerely,
> Ron

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:42:07 -0800
Subject: Re: panel lights

N0040@aol.com wrote:

> Ron,
> I also have the map lights, which were operated off the panel (gauge) lights,
> but I'm going to switch to a 3-position "headlight" type switch, so I can
> have gauge lights without map lights.
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8

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From THOMAS FELTS <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 01:49:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: panel lights

tom
--- HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
> yes the panel lights are on a seperat switch on the
> BJ8. They will only work 
> with the headlight switch turned on to the first
> position though.
> 
>                           
> **************************
> 
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added
> some new features. You 
> can now post photos of your British car or activity
> , also we have added a 
> message board for your convience as well as several
> other changes.

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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 06:02:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Crank pulley

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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 07:39:51 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

Yes!  But that's little consolation when you're standing by the 
side of the road on a dark, rainy night, is it?  

I should be spanked for posting my comment without further explanation.  So 
here goes.  

The rational place for a fuse is as close to the current source as possible.  
That way, the fuse protects against an inadvertent short circuit (e.g., 
insulation chafing) anywhere in the circuit.  

If insulation could be depended upon not to chafe, and short circuits never 
occurred, then the fuse could go anywhere between the current source and the 
load, and the wires would be equally protected against the load drawing too 
much current.  

But most of us prefer to protect the circuit not only against overload, but 
against short circuits, as well, which is why fuses are typically as close to 
the battery as practicable.  

Hope that makes sense, 
-- 
John Miller, N4VU

Should I do my BOBBY VINTON medley?

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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:04:10 -0500
Subject: Re: No Healey content - delete early and often

    Medley? Is he not one-half of the 'Righteous Brothers'?

                                                                    CB

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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:34:28 -0500
Subject: O/D switch position

Contrary to American practice, "off" was up on all four, including the O/D 
switch (disabled when the switch was up; enabled when it was down).  

I have no personal experience with how the switches on the earlier cars were 
set up, but two things wouldn't surprise me: 

1) they were also delivered with up being off and on being down for the O/D 
switch.  
2) through the years, many of those switches got reversed to conform to 
American convention.  

But as someone else suggested, if in one position you can hear a relay 
clicking when you wiggle the shift lever left to wright, and in the other 
position you can't, that pretty well nails it.  
-- 
John Miller, N4VU

For those who like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing they like.
                -- Abraham Lincoln

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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 07:45:25 -0800
Subject: fuse ratings

English 
            Buss 
  Type 
         Replacement 
  (Amp) 
           (AGC) 
   50 
            30 
   35 
            25 
   30 
            20 
   25 
            15 
   20 
            10 
   10 
            7= 
    5 
             3 

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:37:20 EST
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

<< If the fuse fails in the middle, are the ends still OK? >>

You mean the little wire in the fuse? If that is gone, the whole fuse is gone.

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:10:12 -0800
Subject: Halogen Bulbs

Could those of you out there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs in a
BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?

I have heard they produce a lot more heat.  Will the rubber light housing take
it?  I just saw the Halogen headlights on my neighbor's '37 Ford Hot Rod, and
the heat had melted the plastic plugs that connect to the bulb.  JC Whitney
has Halogen 30w/8w bulbs to replace 1157 bulbs.  Moss shows the standard
replacement bulb as 21w/5w.  One of my cars has 1157 bulbs, another has 1034
bulbs, and the 1157 stop light elements pull a little more current, but the
tail light elements seem the same (used the ammeter on my battery charger to
test).  I have heard that 2057 bulbs are even brighter.  Which is better?
What will the effect be on the Lucas flasher unit w/ the higher current the
Halogen stop light element takes?

TIA

John Snyder

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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:49:34 -0800
Subject: How are you?


An older couple is lying in bed one morning,
having just awakened from a good night's sleep.
He takes her hand and she  responds, "Don't touch me."

"Why not?" he asks.

She answers back, "Because I'm dead."

The husband says, "What are you talking about?  We're
both lying here in bed together and talking to one another."

She says, "No, I'm definitely dead."

He insists, "You're not dead.
What in the world  makes you think you're dead?"

"Because I woke up this morning and nothing hurts."

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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 11:56:07 -0800
Subject: Rotating the engine

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From "MARK LAWRENCE" <MLawrence at rmpla.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 12:02:12 -0800
Subject: clutch 

This weekend my father, a long time Healey owner came to visit.  While I
was at work, he checked out my newly purchased '60 BN7.  After a test
drive, he mentioned that the clutch pedal has to go really close to the
floor in order to disengage from gear and recommended that I get this
checked out.  The most recommended British Car Place in Los Angeles that
I know of is ASOM electric.  They have been great but they specialize in
electric stuff.  Does anyone know of a great healey mechanic in the Los
Angeles area?


Thanks
Mark
Venice, CA

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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:07:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs

I tried Halogen tail light bulbs for awhile about two years ago. One failed
fairly soon as did its replacement not long after. The bulbs were definitely
brighter while they lasted. I reverted back to 1157's because of the
apparent poor quality/longevity and also concerns about the higher heat in
such a small area. I didn't notice any change in flasher frequency, but
can't speak to any long term effects there.

The bulbs were branded "Design Tech International Inc", sold by Schucks
(Pacific NW area). John Wilson told me back then that many in the Oregon
club had tried halogens a few years ago and he doubted that any were still
using them. Perhaps bulbs from a different supplier would be better, or
maybe technology/quality has improved in the last couple of years. The heat
factor would still be there however.

Perhaps others have had better results.

Bob Poague


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 10:10 AM
Subject: Halogen Bulbs


> Hello List,
>
> Could those of you out there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs
in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?
>
> I have heard they produce a lot more heat.  Will the rubber light housing
take
> it?  I just saw the Halogen headlights on my neighbor's '37 Ford Hot Rod,
and
> the heat had melted the plastic plugs that connect to the bulb.  JC
Whitney
> has Halogen 30w/8w bulbs to replace 1157 bulbs.  Moss shows the standard
> replacement bulb as 21w/5w.  One of my cars has 1157 bulbs, another has
1034
> bulbs, and the 1157 stop light elements pull a little more current, but
the
> tail light elements seem the same (used the ammeter on my battery charger
to
> test).  I have heard that 2057 bulbs are even brighter.  Which is better?
> What will the effect be on the Lucas flasher unit w/ the higher current
the
> Halogen stop light element takes?
>
> TIA
>
> John Snyder

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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:10:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs




----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 10:10 AM
Subject: Halogen Bulbs


> Hello List,
>
> Could those of you out there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs
in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?
>
> I have heard they produce a lot more heat.  Will the rubber light housing
take
> it?  I just saw the Halogen headlights on my neighbor's '37 Ford Hot Rod,
and
> the heat had melted the plastic plugs that connect to the bulb.  JC
Whitney
> has Halogen 30w/8w bulbs to replace 1157 bulbs.  Moss shows the standard
> replacement bulb as 21w/5w.  One of my cars has 1157 bulbs, another has
1034
> bulbs, and the 1157 stop light elements pull a little more current, but
the
> tail light elements seem the same (used the ammeter on my battery charger
to
> test).  I have heard that 2057 bulbs are even brighter.  Which is better?
> What will the effect be on the Lucas flasher unit w/ the higher current
the
> Halogen stop light element takes?
>
> TIA
>
> John Snyder

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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:13:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs

> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> Reply-To: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 10:10:12 -0800
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Halogen Bulbs
> 
> Hello List,
> 
> Could those of you out there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?

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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:22:46 -0500
Subject: Front wing shape

 ==  Alex in Maine
     1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
     Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
     AI2Q  .-.-.

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:26:41 -0500
Subject: Front end wheel alignment

Just heard from my friend doing final body work and alignment on his BJ7
before painting.  He says that with all wheels/tires pointed straight ahead
that the left front wheel/tire is almost 1 inch more forward than the right
front wheeltire.  This measure is taken from the rear wheels.  He says all
measurements on the frame check out OK.

Also, the right wheel appears centered in the wheel opening but the left is
noticeably forward.

Any thoughts out there as to what would cause this.

Keith Pennell

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:29:28 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

John,

When you say "which is why fuses are typically as close to the battery as
pracicable" do you mean to the neg terminal or the pos terminal?

Keith Pennell

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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:39:36 -0800
Subject: Healeys return to Tahoe in 2004

          John Trifari

          Golden Gate Austin Healey Club

          408-541-9608

          jtrifari@GoldenGateHealeys.com



          Healeys return to Tahoe in 2004





SUNNYVALE California -- Jan 30, 2003 -- The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club
will sponsor a series of biennial events for Austin Healey owners and
enthusiasts on the West Coast and throughout the western United States and
Canada starting in June 2004 at Lake Tahoe.



          As yet unnamed, the first biennial meet will run from Thursday, June
10, 2004 (arrival) to Monday, June 14, 2004 (departure) at the Horizon Casino
and Resort in Stateline NV (Lake Tahoe South Shore), the site of last year's
highly successful OpenRoads 2002 Healey International. An additional day may
be added to the event schedule if required.



          Plans call for a car show, autocross, and tours and rallyes, and a
final awards dinner.  Other activities may be added, depending on the final
length of the event.  Double rooms will be available at the Horizon for $89
per night; $99 for three people per room and $109 for four.  There will be an
$89 registration fee which covers one car and two adults.  There will be no
charge for children under 15.  There will be a $30 charge for each additional
adult or car.



          Registration for the event will open June 1, 2003. Rooms will not be
available at the event rate until after that date and only to those to whom a
registration number has been issued.



          The meet will be open to all Big Healeys, Sprites and Jensen Healeys
as well as to any other car bearing the Healey Marque.  More information on
the event will be available at the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club website
www.GoldenGateHealeys.com.



            The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club serves the Healey community in
the San Francisco Bay Area and in the Central Valley, and throughout  Northern
and Central California and Nevada.  The club welcomes owners of  Big Healeys,
Sprites, Jensen Healeys and all other cars bearing the Healey Marque, and all
other Healey enthusiasts.
###

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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 14:45:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs

I can give you the specs for several of the bulbs which will fit. All 
ratings are at 14 volts low & 12.8 volts high.

#2057 - 6.9w - 27w
#1034 - 8.3w - 27w
#1157 - 8.3w - 27w
#2397 - 6.7w - 29w
#2357 - 8.3w - 29w
#1157H - 8w - 30w
#H1157 - 15w - 50w

I didn't feel that the #1157H was enough different to be helpful so 
tried the #H1157. (15 - 50W) It wasn't successful - A whole lot of heat 
& on the turn signals the bulb stays hot so long that the light doesn't 
completely go out between cycles so is hard to tell that it is blinking. 
Also the turn signal flasher was so slow that it was almost useless. The 
heat was not such a problem with my glass lenses, although I was 
hesitant to keep the brake on too long, but might melt plastic lenses.

I finally used the #2357 bulbs for a little more brightness & went to a 
center high mounted led lamp for an extra stop light. The led's are so 
low current that they don't affect the flasher rate. The lamp that I 
used is about 7 inches wide by one inch high, permanently mounted just 
in front of the boot opening, & painted body color. I used a couple of 
diodes in the new wiring from the stock turn lamps to the new led setup. 
The center light comes on with either turn signal & with the brake 
light. I used #1157A amber for the front turn/marker lamps.

You will get as many ideas on this as there are drivers. Many ways to do 
it, lots of controversy.

BTW, the best head lamps that I found for the money are the Sylvania 
#H6024HV Extended Vision.

Dave Russell

John Snyder wrote:
> Hello List,
> 
> Could those of you out there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?
> 
> I have heard they produce a lot more heat.  Will the rubber light housing take
> it?  I just saw the Halogen headlights on my neighbor's '37 Ford Hot Rod, and
> the heat had melted the plastic plugs that connect to the bulb.  JC Whitney
> has Halogen 30w/8w bulbs to replace 1157 bulbs.  Moss shows the standard
> replacement bulb as 21w/5w.  One of my cars has 1157 bulbs, another has 1034
> bulbs, and the 1157 stop light elements pull a little more current, but the
> tail light elements seem the same (used the ammeter on my battery charger to
> test).  I have heard that 2057 bulbs are even brighter.  Which is better?
> What will the effect be on the Lucas flasher unit w/ the higher current the
> Halogen stop light element takes?
> 
> TIA
> 
> John Snyder

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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:06:30 -0500
Subject: Re: cook brake wire

Was using "close" in more of a figurative sense, as in "close to the 
current supply," but in any case, it'd be whichever one is hot (not ground).  

With the battery in the trunk, it's more a case of being close to where the 
battery cable emerges under the hood, rather than being physically close to 
the battery.  That's why I said "practicable" rather than "possible."  
-- 
John Miller, N4VU

A cynic is a person searching for an honest man, with a stolen lantern.
                -- Edgar A. Shoaff

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From N0040 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:01:37 EST
Subject: Re: panel lights

I have two directional map lights.  I thought they were standard for late 
model BJ8s. They are black metal, replaceable bulb and indexable metal 
shield, so the light can be directed from straight down to out toward the 
occupants.

They are mounted on the left and right of the center console, under the lip 
of the dashboard. The single screw holding the assembly screws into center 
console.

Is this not a standard ?   They're good looking assemblies and are too bright 
for night time driving, they light up the whole interior. (Great for intended 
purpose though   !)

Also, if some of your gauge lights remain on after turning off panel switch, 
you might have a power wire coming from somewhere else. I think the common 
for all the gauge lighting is commoned together with a jumper wire from the 
spacer / locknut that holds the gauge tight to the dashboard, from one gauge 
to the next. There should be only one wire to each gauge light (and they 
should all get their power through the panel switch).

Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Mllford, MI

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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 18:16:09 EST
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs


> there who have installed Halogen tail light bulbs in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?
> 

FYI 
My BJ8, "Blackie," has Halogen bulbs both in the stop/tail lamps and turn 
signals. "Blackie" also has Lucas PL700 headlamps with (12v 55/65w) Halogen 
bulbs and Halogen bulbs in all the instruments. (12v 10w in the speedo & tach 
and 12v 5w in the fuel & water temp/ oil pressure gages) After approximately 
8 years I have only had to replace the stop/tail lamp bulbs once and there 
has been no heat damage to the plastic lenses to date.  

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:00:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Front end wheel alignment

Have your friend look carefully at the inner lower wishbone (A arm)
brackets on the frame. Very often one or other of the forward ones will
tilted in or out at the top. This results in the outboard end of the
wishbone (A arm) being displaced forward or backward. 
Usually results from the car hitting a curb fairly hard at some stage.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 28-Jan-03 4:27 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Front end wheel alignment

Listers,

Just heard from my friend doing final body work and alignment on his BJ7
before painting.  He says that with all wheels/tires pointed straight
ahead
that the left front wheel/tire is almost 1 inch more forward than the
right
front wheeltire.  This measure is taken from the rear wheels.  He says
all
measurements on the frame check out OK.

Also, the right wheel appears centered in the wheel opening but the left
is
noticeably forward.

Any thoughts out there as to what would cause this.

Keith Pennell

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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:33:31 -0500
Subject: wire wheels

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:08:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Front wing shape

Jim


----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 4:22 PM
Subject: Front wing shape


> I've noticed that some Austin-Healey 3000 photos show wings that seem to
be
> straight at their bottom edges, while others have a slight graceful upward
> curve. Is there any significance to this seeming difference?
>
>  ==  Alex in Maine
>      1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
>      Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:18:10 -0500
Subject: RE: wire wheels

60 spoke wheels will not clear the front brake drums. You need to look
for 48 or 72 spokers.

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dennis Broughel
Sent: 28-Jan-03 7:34 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: wire wheels

Dear List:
    I saw a set of 60 spoke 15X4.5 on the E-Bay auction site. Will these

wheels fit on My Longbridge 100/6.
 Thanks in advance ......Dennis Broughel         Bn-4 .......45281

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From Eric Wells <eric at associatedprinting.biz>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 20:27:09 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting In NC

Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in Rutherfordton NC

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:28:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs

I'm embarassed to say I think I've bought about 6
halogen tail light bulbs from JCWhitney.  I wouldn't
buy from them if you can help it.....  Two of them
didn't work on installation, two of them burned out
after about a week of use, and I have two left which
have worked fine for the last few years.

As far as melting rubber or plastic - it doesn't seem
to be a long term problem on my BJ8 or my BN1.

Regards,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com> wrote:
> Hello List,
> 
> Could those of you out there who have installed
> Halogen tail light bulbs in a
> BT7 or BN7 please let me know how they worked?
> 
> I have heard they produce a lot more heat.  Will the
> rubber light housing take
> it?  I just saw the Halogen headlights on my
> neighbor's '37 Ford Hot Rod, and
> the heat had melted the plastic plugs that connect
> to the bulb.  JC Whitney
> has Halogen 30w/8w bulbs to replace 1157 bulbs. 
> Moss shows the standard
> replacement bulb as 21w/5w.  One of my cars has 1157
> bulbs, another has 1034
> bulbs, and the 1157 stop light elements pull a
> little more current, but the
> tail light elements seem the same (used the ammeter
> on my battery charger to
> test).  I have heard that 2057 bulbs are even
> brighter.  Which is better?
> What will the effect be on the Lucas flasher unit w/
> the higher current the
> Halogen stop light element takes?
> 
> TIA
> 
> John Snyder

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:37:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front end wheel alignment

If all the measurements are correct, then you should
check the shocks (are they worn?), the shock mounts
(welded to the shock towers) and the A-arm bushings. 
Pay particular attention to the shock mount plate as
if this has been replaced, it may have been replaced
incorrectly.

The other thing to check is the front steering links. 
Are the links attached correctly on all sides and are
the adjustments done correctly?

Hope that helps,

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8


--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Just heard from my friend doing final body work and
> alignment on his BJ7
> before painting.  He says that with all wheels/tires
> pointed straight ahead
> that the left front wheel/tire is almost 1 inch more
> forward than the right
> front wheeltire.  This measure is taken from the
> rear wheels.  He says all
> measurements on the frame check out OK.
> 
> Also, the right wheel appears centered in the wheel
> opening but the left is
> noticeably forward.
> 
> Any thoughts out there as to what would cause this.
> 
> Keith Pennell

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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 19:34:09 -0800
Subject: Thanks List, was Halogen bulbs

Special thanks to "Dave & Marlene" who provided wattage info for the various
bulbs, and the results of running the real high wattage ones.

I will now sort through all this and make an informed decision.

John Snyder

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 22:55:17 -0800
Subject: Re: clutch

MARK LAWRENCE wrote:

> Hello List.
>
> This weekend my father, a long time Healey owner came to visit.  While I
> was at work, he checked out my newly purchased '60 BN7.  After a test
> drive, he mentioned that the clutch pedal has to go really close to the
> floor in order to disengage from gear and recommended that I get this
> checked out.  The most recommended British Car Place in Los Angeles that
> I know of is ASOM electric.  They have been great but they specialize in
> electric stuff.  Does anyone know of a great healey mechanic in the Los
> Angeles area?
>
> Thanks
> Mark
> Venice, CA

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 23:01:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs

Ohm's Law - Amps = watts divided by volts
Healey harnesses are made up of 18 ga wire, i.e. designed to carry at least 20
amps.
Halogen allows for more lumens and candlepower per watt. Light is higher Kelvin
temperature
-i.e., WHITER

Glass envelope of the bulb is DESIGNED for higher wattage.
Corrosion in fixture will increase resistance and also increase wattage - 
halogen
or
non halogen.

Plastic lenses will not melt to my knowledge.  Hasn't happened yet.  If you keep
your foot on
brake for 15-20 MINUTES CONSTANTLY you may heat up lens quite a bit However.

I hope all who are interested will save this or write me (see Healey Marque ad)
for printed
literature.

DickB

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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 06:58:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs


Hi John,
I have been using halogen  brake,stop,turn (1156-1157)replacements in my 67 
BJ8 since 1995. I had one or two go bad readily and these were replaced by 
the supplier at no cost. They do produce more heat but so far have not had 
any negative affects thus far. I do run parking/tail lights at all times for 
safety, so they are on a lot! I don't know how they affect earlier cars.
The supplier at that time was "Safecar,LTD",and "BRIGHTon,LTD",Dick Brill 
from the Midwest Region AHC. I don't know if Dick is on the list? I have 
address and phone/fax# but don't know if it's current.

Warren
67 BJ8



>>
>>

_________________________________________________________________
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 07:25:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: clutch

Al Schultz (In cold Wisconsin)

> Do not go to Peter in Venice unless you want to spend a lot of
> money for a second rate job and get your car back dirty.
> take it to Eric at Absolutely British in Ontario.
> way to far, but worth it.
> ask me how I know.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> Marina del Rey
>
> MARK LAWRENCE wrote:

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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 10:43:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Thanks List, was Halogen bulbs

http://lighting.mbz.org/home.html

I bought my halogen bulbs from Dan.  He had the rather obscure
R2 mount (used in European fixtures for the Healey).   And he
has all the different bulbs that you might like.  He has good
advice and supplies for modifying your car to take on even
brighter lights.  He is familiar with retrofit onto concours
cars, so he also has advice on how to disguise the installation
and to make it reversible to return to original.

In addition to product descriptions, he has technical articles
on how to install the lights, how the lights perform, and the
legal issues associated with automobile lighting.

-skip-




John Snyder wrote:
> 
> This List is great.  Less than 9 hours after I posted my question, I have
> eight responses.  

> I will now sort through all this and make an informed decision.

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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 08:04:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: <MBran89793@aol.com>
Cc: <johnahsn@olypen.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: Halogen Bulbs


> Listers:
> I have Halogen bulbs in my BJ8 and my E type.
> I always run with my lights on in the daytime and these are very visible.
the
> brake lights are even brighter.
> below are some comments from Dick Brill who used to be on this list.
> Bought mine from him and are very happy. Had them in the BJ8 for over 2
years and
> many miles.
> Ron
> YMMV
> H1156 ---50 watts
> H1157 ----15/50 watts
>
> Ohm's Law - Amps = watts divided by volts
> Healey harnesses are made up of 18 ga wire, i.e. designed to carry at
least 20
> amps.
> Halogen allows for more lumens and candlepower per watt. Light is higher
Kelvin
> temperature
> -i.e., WHITER
>
> Glass envelope of the bulb is DESIGNED for higher wattage.
> Corrosion in fixture will increase resistance and also increase wattage -
halogen
> or
> non halogen.
>
> Plastic lenses will not melt to my knowledge.  Hasn't happened yet.  If
you keep
> your foot on
> brake for 15-20 MINUTES CONSTANTLY you may heat up lens quite a bit
However.
>
> I hope all who are interested will save this or write me (see Healey
Marque ad)
> for printed
> literature.
>
> DickB

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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 09:02:46 -0800
Subject: Re: clutch

alan@andysnet.net wrote:

> I hope all those locations are in CA.
>
> Al Schultz (In cold Wisconsin)
>
> > Do not go to Peter in Venice unless you want to spend a lot of
> > money for a second rate job and get your car back dirty.
> > take it to Eric at Absolutely British in Ontario.
> > way to far, but worth it.
> > ask me how I know.
> > Ron Rader
> > 1965 BJ8
> > Marina del Rey

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 15:35:58 -0600
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT  Just a little humor.

When you're hungry, she's not, when you're cold, then she's hot. Then you start 
that old thermostat war. 
When you turn out the light, she goes left, you go right. Then you get her 
great symphonic snore.
He was once so romantic, and witty and smart. How'd he turn out to be such a 
cranky old fart? 
So don't take any bets, this is as good as it gets. Tell me dear, are you 
lonesome tonight? 
(author unknown) 

Don
BN7

"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:37:08 -0500
Subject: 62 3000 Mark II on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2400701536

James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7 III

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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 16:07:18 -0600
Subject: 62 MKII 3000 on ebay

According to my sources there were only 355 total of these since this is the 
tri-carb two seater.  Of the 355 made, I believe only 155 or so were center 
shifts.
Don
BN7

"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our 
breath away"

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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 17:00:25 EST
Subject: Re: 62 MKII 3000 on ebay

<< According to my sources there were only 355 total of these since this is 
the tri-carb two seater.  Of the 355 made, I believe only 155 or so were 
center shifts.
Don
BN7 >>

The car sold was four seater. Not one of the 355 tricarb BN7's.

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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 17:08:54 -0500
Subject: Steering shaft splines

Still after the identification and application of this wood rim steering
wheel.  Is there anyone out there able and willing to measure the OD of the
shaft and count the number of splines on a nonadjustable steering shaft?

TIA
Keith Pennell

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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 17:21:21 -0500
Subject: Re: NO HEALEY CONTENT  Just a little humor.

If you are going to start sending money put me at the top of the list.  I
will also give you the courtesy of a thank you letter.   Bush wouldn't do
that.  Plus I can almost guarantee you that you won't have the secret
service checking up on you when I deposit your check.   Bush doesn't need
anymore from you or me. He already has more than his half of what started
out as mine.

Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA






----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 4:35 PM
Subject: NO HEALEY CONTENT Just a little humor.


> I just got off the phone.  Some idiot called and said "May I speak to the
Republican of the House?"
> I said, "The house of Representatives or this house?"
>
> He said, "No, may I speak to the Republican of the house to which I'm
connected."
>
> I said, "Which house are you connected with?"
>
> He said, "You don't understand, sir.  I'd like to speak to the Republican
of your house"
>
> I said, "You've got the wrong number, there aren't any Republicans in this
house"
>
> He hung up.
>
> Probably some nut wanting me to send money to George Bush.
>
> Fat chance.
>
> Here's something I thought was kinda funny:
>
> Elvis's love song :
> (These are the words he would be singing if he was with us today)
> Are you lonesome tonight, does your tummy feel tight? Did you bring your
Mylanta and Tums?
> Does your memory stray, to that bright sunny day... When you had all your
teeth and your gums?
> Is your hairline receding? Are your eyes growing dim? Hysterectomy for her
and it's prostate for him. Does your back give you pain... do your knees
predict rain? Tell me dear, are you lonesome tonight?
> Is your blood pressure up, your good cholesterol down? Are you eating your
low fat cuisine?
> All that oat bran and fruit, metamucil to boot, keeps you like a well
oiled machine.
> If it's football or baseball... he sure knows the score. Yes, he knows
where it's at... but forgets what it's for.
> So, your gall bladder's gone. But his gout lingers on. Tell me dear, are
you lonesome tonight?
>
> When you're hungry, she's not, when you're cold, then she's hot. Then you
start that old thermostat war.
> When you turn out the light, she goes left, you go right. Then you get her
great symphonic snore.
> He was once so romantic, and witty and smart. How'd he turn out to be such
a cranky old fart?
> So don't take any bets, this is as good as it gets. Tell me dear, are you
lonesome tonight?
> (author unknown)
>
> Don
> BN7
>
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take
our breath away"

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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 18:04:24 -0500
Subject: Sunday morning 25th NHC


Jim D
Manasquan, NJ

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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 18:07:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering shaft splines

Always Willing and Able.......

Jim


----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 5:08 PM
Subject: Steering shaft splines


> Listers,
>
> Still after the identification and application of this wood rim steering
> wheel.  Is there anyone out there able and willing to measure the OD of
the
> shaft and count the number of splines on a nonadjustable steering shaft?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell

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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:02:15 -0500
Subject: RE: 62 3000 Mark II on Ebay

The seller got 1475 by deciding that the BT7 MkII with the centre shift
box creates a further sub category. Perhaps he could say that there were
only 388 of this type made if he further subdivided the category by
colour ;-)

Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: 29-Jan-03 4:37 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: 62 3000 Mark II on Ebay

Did anyone else see this car on ebay? It closed for $44, 100.00. The
seller
says that it is very rare as there were only 1475 of these center shift
roadsters made. Is that true? Anyway, this is the same as my car so I
was
interested. Thanks, JL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&i
tem=
2400701536

James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7 III

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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 17:12:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 62 3000 Mark II on Ebay

There were both two and four seater versions, although
I think there were something like only 25 two seater
versions made with centre shift.  I think Hans Nohr or
Bill Bolton has one of them.

Cheers,

Alan

'53 BN1 '66 BJ8

--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Did anyone else see this car on ebay? It closed for
> $44, 100.00. The seller
> says that it is very rare as there were only 1475 of
> these center shift
> roadsters made. Is that true? Anyway, this is the
> same as my car so I was
> interested. Thanks, JL
> 
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
> 2400701536
> 
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> Bt7 III

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From Dave Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:54:19 -0500
Subject: aluminium radiator

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From Dave Caudle <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 20:56:37 -0500
Subject: test

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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Freese, Ken 
To: 'healeys'
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 13:15:09 +1100
Subject: Pre produstion car for sale

Hi Larry ; George here from The Vintage Restoration Shop,My customer,
has
for sale the #2 pre-production[earlyest known existing and documented by

Donald Healey]built at Warwick for the U.S.A.100-4 Austin Healey[Could
be
the New York Show Car.]#133235.Contact me at 1-928-772-2600 Thanks...GEO

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