the slats, as original, do NOT have a polished finish.
If the slats all look aproximately the same color and
finish, then they are in good shape. All you need to
clean them is some soap and water or some degreaser.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Esko & Megan Cate <enmcate@comcast.net> wrote:
> The best news is she started up today and I got to
> drive her a few miles.
> Still not confident enough to go very far away from
> home (still have the tow
> bar on the front instead of the bumper). The
> interior is nearly all in and
> the top is complete. Much of the chrome is off
> being redone so will have that
> to put on in a couple of weeks.
>
> On the chrome stuff, how does one clean up the
> grill? My understanding is
> that the vertical slats on a BJ7 are stainless
> rather than chrome. Mine needs
> some serious polishing, its all straight but ...
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Esko
> BJ7
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 01:00:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Move Over to Earthlink
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:10:13 -0700
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Subject: Move Over to Earthlink
__________________________________
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:28:21 +0100
Subject: RE: Cleaning grill? - one more Healey back on the road
AlanB
New Forest AHC
-----Original Message-----
From: MeditionM@netscape.net [mailto:MeditionM@netscape.net]
Sent: 01 August 2003 06:54
To: enmcate@comcast.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Cleaning grill? - one more Healey back on the road
I am not absolutey sure, but I think the verticals are anodised aluminum.
Not easy to restore the finish by polishing. I am sure that if this is not
correct that someone out there will set us both straight!
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
ntl Group Limited
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From DLthm at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 04:55:27 EDT
Subject: AOL
Looking forward to a nice sunny weekend with the top down. (and the Healey).
Dave
Wales UK
53 100/4
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 02:14:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: re. Move Over to Earthlink
Wouldn't that be the same as asking all of us Healey
owners to upgrade to a 2003 Toyota because it's so
reliable, fast and fuel efficient? ;)
I, for one, enjoy accessing the internet with my Tandy
2000 computer with a 800 byte Baud rate hand reciever
modem. And what about that rotary dial on the phone!
It may be slow, but it's a classic and it requires OEM
parts!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (ok I have a cable modem)
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> How about moving over to your local DSL provider?
> It's much faster than modem (or even the new
> "enhanced" dial up services), uses existing phone
> lines, instant on, and avail for not much more than
> earthlink or AOL. And just as important, you don't
> need to deal with the AOL and Earthlink shtuff
> that's
> between you and the WWW.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
>
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:10:13 -0700
> From: "Marge and/or Len"
> <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Move Over to Earthlink
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 11:13:15 +0100
Subject: Re: 1959 100-6
Peter Dzwig
tom mitchell wrote:
I have a friend who has a 100-6 for sale, yet we don't know much he should
be asking.
It looks very nice, "however"
The car is complete and runs, body looks good, at least no rust showing.
I believe it needs inner sills, at least one (right front) out-rigger
(maybe all four)
I also think the front cross member needs to be replaced .
It has an original hard top, yet need the Plexiglass replaced as the
original is cracked and turned milky.
He has $10,000 into the car, any idea what he can get out of it?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
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From Tlfelts at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:46:34 EDT
Subject: Re: AOL
> its OK for all you retired folks sitting in the sun polishing
> your Healeys but us poor guys still working who have thousands of business
> cards and letter heads and websites with our AOL email address are more or
> less
> committed to stay with them.
>
Interesting assumption. where could you possible derive that from these
e-mails?
just curious
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 07:47:34 -0400
Subject: Paint colors of Air Cleaners - "Black over ..green" What does
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 07:48:49 EDT
Subject: Re: 1959 100-6
Rudy Streng
100/Six Registry
Lenoir, NC
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 05:51:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Turn signals on bj8
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:13:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Turn signals on bj8
Mine works just the opposite of yours. When I turn right, it turns off after
the turn, but not after turning left. I believe it's just old age and wear.
I have completely cleaned the internals, made sure the return spring worked
well, and there are two vertical square shafts (with 450 ends) that push up to
release the turn signal after the turn. There is a small follower on the
rotating part of the hub that push this shaft upware after you have turned the
wheel. This movement releases the "latched" contact.
If your horn works, and turn signals work (but may not shut off), everything
is probably assembled right. It just needs a thorough cleaning. I don't
believe grease is recommended anywhere, but perhaps dry graphite on the
sliding
parts would help.
I strongly urge placing a very large towel under your work space to catch the
pieces that fly away during disassembly (and reassembly). (Been there-done
that !!)
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 06:48:58 -0700
Subject: turn indicators
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 11:47:20 EDT
Subject: Re: AOL
A VERY good point, even though AOL has really gotten terrible. I do a fair
amount of research on the web, and it can be very hard, many times impossible,
to reach/find a person who has changed their email; so it shouldn't be done on
a whim.
Dick Hosmer
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 11:48:27 EDT
Subject: Re: re. Move Over to Earthlink
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:04:13 -0700
Subject: Re: re. Move Over to Earthlink
Some of us are operating on the basis of least expensive for the features we
want.
In case you haven't noticed from past posts (I use the least expensive 87
octane gasoline I can find and don't see any need to spend money I don't
have to). I consider myself to be a frugal person.
Can you spell 'frugal'? 'frugal': c-h-e-a-p 'frugal'.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 1:00 AM
Subject: re. Move Over to Earthlink
> How about moving over to your local DSL provider?
> It's much faster than modem (or even the new
> "enhanced" dial up services), uses existing phone
> lines, instant on, and avail for not much more than
> earthlink or AOL. And just as important, you don't
> need to deal with the AOL and Earthlink shtuff that's
> between you and the WWW.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Torrance, CA
>
> Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:10:13 -0700
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Move Over to Earthlink
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:11:20 -0700
Subject: Re: re. Move Over to Earthlink
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>; <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: re. Move Over to Earthlink
> My PCJr has a 300 baud modem!!!!!!
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 11:09:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Move Over to Earthlink
It has been over 100 degrees for most of the past month here. Very
limited driving & no motorcycle stuff. Even too hot to fiddle with the
car. I will wait for cooler weather.
Dave
Tracy Drummond wrote:
> Dave,
>
> I keep "Wecheat, Yew and Howe" on retainer. I suppose with all the AOL
> content lately,
> a few lawer jokes are not too far off topic.
>
> BTW Dave are you getting many chances to tear up the Boise backroads on
> the Norton
> these days?
>
> Tracy
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 12:09:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint colors of Air Cleaners - "Black over ..green" What
I think that you can only guess at what the writer meant. Possibly a
combination of colors on the base, mesh, & top. Which is which would
only be a guess. Possibly a black top with green mesh. In any event I
don't think that it is an original combination.
All of my references show pre 1955 colors as "black crackle" or
"hammertone blue". Post 1955 is shown as "hammertone green"
Dave Russell
BN2
Rick Neves wrote:
-------------------
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From "Alan Bromfield" <alan.bromfield at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 20:59:16 +0100
Subject: Non-Healey - but topical.
AlanB
New Forest AHC. UK
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 16:49:31 -0700
Subject: Pennrite st box lube
Received the Pennrite steering box lube yesterday. Thanks Jon!
But how do I get this stuff In the filler hole?????? I recall this being
discussed before but I deleted all that. I have tried setting it in boiling
water but that changed the viscosity little.
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:07:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Pennrite st box lube
I set up a hairdryer to blow on the bottle for a while until the oil was thin
enough to suck up into a piece of clear tubing; then I stuck the tubing into
the filler hole on the steering box, and blew in the oil. Repeated until the
'box was full.
The Penrite oil fixed a slight leak I had at the bottom of the 'box.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 7:49 PM
Subject: Pennrite st box lube
Listers,
Received the Pennrite steering box lube yesterday. Thanks Jon!
But how do I get this stuff In the filler hole?????? I recall this being
discussed before but I deleted all that. I have tried setting it in
boiling
water but that changed the viscosity little.
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:53:51 -0400
Subject: Re: turn indicators
I think it had more to do with the indicators and parking lights or lenses
being removed at some point and being reversed when reinstalled. Sort of
like the fender spears, which you see reversed about as frequently as you see
them correct.
All of the cars shown in all of my reference books (Clausager,
Anderson/Moment, Heilig, Robson, and Harvey) have the amber lenses outboard,
except for one photo of a BJ8 owned by John Chatham that has the lights
reversed (Harvey, Plate 15).
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davies
To: Healeys
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 9:48 AM
Subject: turn indicators
After looking at quite a few BJ8s in original condition (restoration books,
review articles, etc) I noticed that sometimes the front turn indicators
(orange and clear) reverse positions. IE the orange is below the headlight
and sometimes the clear is below the headlight. Did it have to do with the
color of the car, or the year(65-67), or what ?
Thanks
Ron
67 BJ8
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 17:57:08 -0400
Subject: Another California BJ8
Anybody know who owns a red over black (or any other colo(u)r) BJ8 with
California license plate BIG HELY?
Reply to me off list, please.
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 21:55:30 EDT
Subject: AOL Test-No Content-Please Delete
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 19:13:49 -0700
Subject: RE: turn indicators
Am I right in assuming that the turn indicators are supposed to be amber and
the parking lights white?
If so, my parking amber lights are inside and wired correct. Otherwise....
I looked through several mags and books and found...
"Ultimate Classic Car Book" on BRG amber was OUT as you suggest.
Haynes "Austin Healey" they were all OUT on pics but on the official AH
brochures on pg 137 they were IN on both the Blue/wt and Black/Red Mk IIIs.
On the back cover of Austin-Healey 3000, Ultimate Portfolio the amber is IN
on the BRG and OUT on the Wt/blk. Different on the same page! It's no wonder
I was confused. Any chance they changed and re-wired these from the factory
based on color or year?
Ron
Blue BJ8 # 37444 with IN amber turn indicators.
All of the cars shown in all of my reference books (Clausager,
Anderson/Moment, Heilig, Robson, and Harvey) have the amber lenses outboard,
except for one photo of a BJ8 owned by John Chatham that has the lights
reversed (Harvey, Plate 15).
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 22:36:28 -0400
Subject: Re: turn indicators
Yes, the turn indicators are amber and the parking lights white. If your
parking lights are on the inside and amber, then the lenses are just reversed.
If the inner lights are turn signals and amber, then the light assemblies have
been reversed.
I guess anything is possible, but I do not believe (nor have I ever read
anything to prove or disprove) that the factory installed the lights based on
color or year of car. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that there were
some cars that got out of the factory with the lights reversed, but they would
have been "mistakes".
35 - 40 years down the road, it's hard to look at an easily-changeable detail
on a particular car, or even a bunch of them, and determine based on their
current configurations what was "right" when they were new. The parts have
just had too much opportunity to be changed in a lot of cases (such as light
lenses and fender spears). I have seen quite a few late BJ8s with
single-light front shrouds, but I would bet these didn't come out of the
factory like that. More likely, they had a collision at some point, needed a
shroud change, and the one that was available only had one light in front. I
have seen cars with two amber lights in front, or two clear; but I don't
believe they came from the factory that way. I would conclude that some
owner made the change.
All of the above is only my opinion based on what I have observed and deduced,
but I think it is correct.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davies
To: BJ8Healeys ; Healeys
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 10:13 PM
Subject: RE: turn indicators
Steve:
Am I right in assuming that the turn indicators are supposed to be amber
and
the parking lights white?
If so, my parking amber lights are inside and wired correct. Otherwise....
I looked through several mags and books and found...
"Ultimate Classic Car Book" on BRG amber was OUT as you suggest.
Haynes "Austin Healey" they were all OUT on pics but on the official AH
brochures on pg 137 they were IN on both the Blue/wt and Black/Red Mk IIIs.
On the back cover of Austin-Healey 3000, Ultimate Portfolio the amber is IN
on the BRG and OUT on the Wt/blk. Different on the same page! It's no
wonder
I was confused. Any chance they changed and re-wired these from the factory
based on color or year?
Ron
Blue BJ8 # 37444 with IN amber turn indicators.
All of the cars shown in all of my reference books (Clausager,
Anderson/Moment, Heilig, Robson, and Harvey) have the amber lenses
outboard,
except for one photo of a BJ8 owned by John Chatham that has the lights
reversed (Harvey, Plate 15).
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 23:04:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire wheels
Much appreciated
Dave
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 23:38:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Turn signals on bj8
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + $4.00 S H . SOLD over 1500 copies
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to understand
writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 22:03:01 -0700
Subject: RE: turn indicators
Why do you think that those factory UK brochures for the LHD and RHD BJ8s in
Haynes Great Cars... "Austin Healey" showed the amber IN? Poetic license or
reversed in the UK? Any Brits out there with RHD and IN amber turn signals?
If not original for LHD then someone reversed the assemblies since my inner
lights ARE both turn indicators and amber (like the UK factory brochures).
I'm the third owner since it came to California in 66. Until '02 the Nocks
had been working on it for over 10 years (according to the second owner) and
it was never in a wreck according to: the Nocks, Udo Putzke, and Eric at
Absolutely British. Based on that I lean towards a factory glitch (or
special). My car has other 66-67 swing parts/labels as if it was either one
of the last '66 (BMIHT August 2-3 1966) or the first '67 coming off the
line. Maybe it was made on a Friday :-)
Comments, Norman?
Thanks so much, now everybody go to the garage and check your turn indicator
positions :-)
Ron
37444
PS would the (reversed) positions detract points from a concours judging or
not? If so, are the assemblies easily switchable?
******************
"If the inner lights are turn signals and amber, then the light assemblies
have
been reversed."
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 02:18:17 -0500
Subject: fuel octane
Please respond directly to or copy to bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Brian
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 02:24:30 -0500
Subject: Pirelli CN 56 and tire pressures
Should I be concerned about running these tires? I don't ever press the car
hard in corners, any risk of them coming apart?
What are the current recommendations of front and rear pressures.
Should the consensus be to replace these tires, what are the current
recommendations.
Thanks,
Brian Collins
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 02:28:48 -0500
Subject: Bought new chrome bezel for hood scoop, what to use for proper
Please respond directly to (or copy) bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Brian
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 09:25:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Bought new chrome bezel for hood scoop, what to use for
John Snyder
Subject: Bought new chrome bezel for hood scoop, what to use for proper
spacers
> I got tired of looking at the three dimples on the old chrome bezel/trim
for the hood scoop on my 61 MKI 3000, so I sprung for a new one from Moss.
Spacers were shown to be not available, so I need suggestions on what to use
so I don't end up with the same dimples or depressions on the new bezel.
> Thanks,
> Brian
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 15:42:10 -0400
Subject: BN2/M distributor problems
First problem~ I purchased a Pertronix pointless Ignitor that was represented
as okay for 100-4's. Unfortunately, the Pertronix mounting plate does not line
up with any of th holes provided in the existing base plate of the distributor
to which you screw the condenser and points. The distributor is the early
BN2/M distributor (40422B). If any of you have mounted the Pertronix Ignitor
to a stock 100-4 distributor, does the sensor sit symetrically around one of
the four cam lobes, or does the leading edge of the sensor align next to the
lobe? If you have been able to use the provided base plate, how close is the
inside radius of the sensor to the lobe?
Second problem~ While I had the advancing plate out, I decided to check the
distributor's guts and found that the spring steel three-legged tensioner that
draws the upper plate against the lower plate (held in place by a circlip) has
broken so that only two of the three fingers were tensioning the plate, and
causing too much tension. Does anywhere know where to buy pieces such as
this?
Third problem~ The centrifugal weights are retained by small guage springs. On
this distributor, one is very stiff; the other is quite thin. The thicker one
seems to be a replacement, guessing from its looser fit. I can buy springs of
this nature, but would like to buy one of the correct guage and stiffness. Can
anyone give me an idea of how much resistance the springs should offer
(ounces, a few pounds or whatever) when you press the weights outward? The car
runs smoothly with the weights they way they are, but obviously one of the
centrifugals is throwing out farther than the other, and over time this is
going to be a problem.
I know that all three problems disappear with a Mallory unit, but I'd like to
keep the original going if possible. There is no discernible play in the
spindle, and everything else seems worth saving. I've gotten the vacuum
advance back in. Any help would be appreciated.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:16:21 -0400
Subject: BN2/M distributor problems
My first two problems remain -- the three-finger tension piece is still
broken all wishing aside, and the Pertronix Ignitor won't fit.
Allen BN2/M 229089
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:57:06 -0400
Subject: BN2/M distributor problems
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 17:43:07 -0400
Subject: Lucas fuses
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 18:55:24 -0400
Subject: RE: Lucas fuses
There is heaps of information on this subject in the archives. Do a
search under "fuse"
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
Sent: 2-Aug-03 5:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas fuses
Somewhere, I read or heard that Lucas fuses have a different system of
amperage ratings from Smerican glass encased blade fuses. If that is
true,
does someone know the conversion factor?
Allen
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 17:06:02 -0700
Subject: BN1 steering wheel removal
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert motorhome
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 17:14:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN2/M distributor problems
The Likely reason why your pertronix does not fit is
because the Pertronix on a 100 mounts on the opposite
side of the plate from where the points sit... so
maybe you are just confused. Try that and see if that
works. If not, you may have a pertronix for an early
BN1 which uses a different distributor.
Regarding your distributor - to be honest I think the
smartest thing would be to purchase a rebuilt
distributor. Unfortunately, the way Lucas has priced
all of the replacement parts for this, it will be
cheaper to rebuild the whole thing than to fix all the
parts onesey twosey. Besides, your distributor sounds
so messed up, the bushings and other stuff probably
should be fixed and replaced as well.
You can buy rebuilt distributors exchange from
www.ahspares.co.uk for 120 pound sterling. Hemphills
will probably sell them too.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> Need a great deal of help from BN1/BN2 owners.
>
> First problem~ I purchased a Pertronix pointless
> Ignitor that was represented
> as okay for 100-4's. Unfortunately, the Pertronix
> mounting plate does not line
> up with any of th holes provided in the existing
> base plate of the distributor
> to which you screw the condenser and points. The
> distributor is the early
> BN2/M distributor (40422B). If any of you have
> mounted the Pertronix Ignitor
> to a stock 100-4 distributor, does the sensor sit
> symetrically around one of
> the four cam lobes, or does the leading edge of the
> sensor align next to the
> lobe? If you have been able to use the provided base
> plate, how close is the
> inside radius of the sensor to the lobe?
>
> Second problem~ While I had the advancing plate out,
> I decided to check the
> distributor's guts and found that the spring steel
> three-legged tensioner that
> draws the upper plate against the lower plate (held
> in place by a circlip) has
> broken so that only two of the three fingers were
> tensioning the plate, and
> causing too much tension. Does anywhere know where
> to buy pieces such as
> this?
>
> Third problem~ The centrifugal weights are retained
> by small guage springs. On
> this distributor, one is very stiff; the other is
> quite thin. The thicker one
> seems to be a replacement, guessing from its looser
> fit. I can buy springs of
> this nature, but would like to buy one of the
> correct guage and stiffness. Can
> anyone give me an idea of how much resistance the
> springs should offer
> (ounces, a few pounds or whatever) when you press
> the weights outward? The car
> runs smoothly with the weights they way they are,
> but obviously one of the
> centrifugals is throwing out farther than the other,
> and over time this is
> going to be a problem.
>
> I know that all three problems disappear with a
> Mallory unit, but I'd like to
> keep the original going if possible. There is no
> discernible play in the
> spindle, and everything else seems worth saving.
> I've gotten the vacuum
> advance back in. Any help would be appreciated.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 20:23:42 -0400
Subject: fuse question
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 20:51:19 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2/M distributor problems
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 21:33:17 -0400
Subject: Re: AOL
> For those of you leaving AOL....they are known to ignore your request to
> quit service and continue to bill you for months.
>A very good point, like the song says, "you can check out any time oyu
like,
>but you can nevefr leave"
Ah yes, Hotel California; one of my faves.
I have found AOL to be an irritant for years. I understand their marketing
strategy (outdated) and the value to people who don't understand, or are
afraid of, the internet. However, to me they're just a filter sitting
between the internet and the user. It's very difficult getting large files
through their firewall (and out from as well).
Additionally, SPAM thrives in AOL. I've had several service providers and
the only SPAM problems I've experienced were caused by someone in the family
leaving our email address on a website. Control where your address goes and
SPAM won't be much of a problem - except on AOL. Sort of ironic, they've
caused you additional inconvenience trying to improve a situation that you
wouldn't have if you weren't with them to begin with.
They appear to be going down the tubes (just ask Time Warner). To my
knowledge they haven't foreseen the (obvious) migration to broadband.
I guess I'm just an AOL hater. Sorry.
Mike L.
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 18:41:10 -0700
Subject: Which way do wipers move?
Esko
BJ7
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 11:57:35 +1000
Subject: Re: Which way do wipers move?
Wiper blades should always park on the "driver's" side. By definition, that
means that LHD and RHD wiper arms are different - they park on opposite
sides of the car. My drivers side is different to yours!!
Arm wiper - RHD is BHA4351
Arm wiper - LHD is BHA4354
See page MN10 of the BJ7 & BJ8 parts book.
They are wiping 'left' because I think you have RHD arms on - ie you've put
them on to be where you want them parked - not where they are supposed to be
parked.
Did you buy your new ones from an Aussie or an Englishman???
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 11:41 AM
Subject: Which way do wipers move?
> Just picked up new wiper arms for the BJ7. Obviously they are intended to
lay
> to the left (drivers) side and move to the right first when turned on.
Well,
> my wiper motor turns to the left first when turned on (interesting wipe of
the
> hood). Sooo, I went to the reference books to see which side was the
proper
> resting side. Unfortuneately, the books show the blades resting on both
sides
> and it does not appear that it is strictly a LHD/RHD issue. So, do I need
to
> find arms that allow the blade to rest to the right or is there a wiring
> change that will make the motor start going to the right (motor turn in
the
> opposite direction?)? The car is still positive ground. Thanks in
advance
>
> Esko
> BJ7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 22:58:44 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2/M distributor problems
When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
books.
Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his complete
stock .
This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
timing light
. electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M there
is
zero advance .
Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H $4.00 U,S. continent .. Norman
Nock -
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 21:06:47 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 steering wheel removal
The shop manual shows a puller which should give you an idea. What it
doesn't show is that there should be no force applied to the nut or its
threads. The threaded tube wall gets thicker down inside where it's id
narrows down to a smaller diameter. Make a shouldered peg which fits
inside of the two diameters With it's shoulder against the internal
shoulder. Use this peg to push against with the puller or to hammer on.
It may come off with one person pulling on the wheel & another hammering
on the peg. I repeat, don't distort the thinwall section that the nut
goes on. Also, if you hammer too hard you can damage the steering box on
the other end of the shaft.
As a last resort, to save the steering shaft I spent hours with a cutoff
wheel, literally cutting the hub into two pieces to get it off. It was
only then that I found the large burr on the lower end of the hub
splines. If I had known better I would have just made a puller & a peg
to start with. Ruined a good wheel, but I intended to replace it anyway.
Hope this helps others to avoid my dumb mistakes,
Dave Russell
BN2
George wrote:
> I need help removing my non-adjustable steering wheel. The nut is removed
> and the wheel will move about 1/4 inch towards me before stopping abruptly.
> It feels like it is hitting a stop of some kind. Any suggestions?
>
> George Castleberry
> Flagstaff, AZ
> 1954 BN1L-157155
> 1973 GMC Painted Desert motorhome
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 23:53:28 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2/M distributor problems
> When I am in a used book store , I always go looking for old , British Car
>
> books.
> Sometime ago I found one about LUCAS ignition . The store owner told me he
>
> had had these books 10 years and never sold one , so I purchased his
> complete
> stock .
> This book tells just about everything you would need to know about " HOW
> IT WORKS ''. For example , the coil - function and troubleshooting ,
> distributors , centrifugal and vacuum advance , high performance engines ,
> timing light
> . electronic ignition , trouble shooting .
> The last 41 pages list over 1,000 distributors by part number, model ,
> centrifugal advance degrees at three different R.P.M , and at what R.P.M
> there is
> zero advance .
> Copies are available for $ 15.00 + S.H $4.00 U,S. continent .. Norman
> Nock -
> British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way Stockton CA 95205
>
Ad nauseum.
Michael
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 00:11:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Which way do wipers move?
Where your wipers park is determined by the placement of the round thingie
on the wiper transmission. By loosening the 3 screws which hold the trans
cover plate, this round piece may be rotated to get the wipers to park
properly for you. I don't believe there is a mark of any kind to go by -
just trial and error. But for starters rotate it 180 deg from where it is.
Keith Pennell
> Just picked up new wiper arms for the BJ7. Obviously they are intended to
lay
> to the left (drivers) side and move to the right first when turned on.
Well,
> my wiper motor turns to the left first when turned on (interesting wipe of
the
> hood). Sooo, I went to the reference books to see which side was the
proper
> resting side. Unfortuneately, the books show the blades resting on both
sides
> and it does not appear that it is strictly a LHD/RHD issue. So, do I need
to
> find arms that allow the blade to rest to the right or is there a wiring
> change that will make the motor start going to the right (motor turn in
the
> opposite direction?)? The car is still positive ground. Thanks in
advance
>
> Esko
> BJ7
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 12:22:42 EDT
Subject: Re: AOL
Not to prolong this too far, but I would suggest that the simplest way to
dump AOL, if you are of a mind to, is not to deal with them at all (beyond one
documentable contact) but rather handle it with your credit card company.
Inform your bank, in writing, that AOL charges are no longer authorized, and,
if it shows up again the next month, subtract that amount from your payment.
I suspect that will get AOL's attention very quickly.
Dick Hosmer
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 10:59:16 -0700
Subject: Plug Gap & Points Gap Big Healeys
Bob BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 12:48:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Plug Gap & Points Gap Big Healeys
A "sport coil" by itself is unlikely to increase available spark voltage
very much. The available spark voltage is mostly determined by how much
current flows through the points. More current = higher voltage. The
more current the shorter the point life. The original coil is designed
to be a reasonable compromise between point life & spark voltage. The
sport coil may give a little more voltage at the cost of more point burning.
To answer your question, you can possibly increase plug gap by .005". A
point gap setting of around .015" should work.
Dave Russell
Robert Wiley wrote:
> What is the best plug and point gap setting when using a sport coil?
>
> Bob BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
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From Lauraa101 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 14:55:18 EDT
Subject: Tires
Thanks,
Mike Anderson
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 13:45:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Tires
Dave Russell
Lauraa101@aol.com wrote:
> I am interested in buying new tires for my BT7. I called Coker to order
> Michelin 175R15 ZX. They will not have any in stock until the end of the
>year.
> Does anyone have another source for these tires?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Anderson
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 13:12:51 -0700
Subject: It's Alive !
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 18:18:15 EDT
Subject: engine ID
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 19:16:41 EDT
Subject: Re: engine ID
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 22:31:33 -0500
Subject: Piston Type
Thanks, Mark
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 23:49:13 -0400
Subject: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
Recall that a week or two ago I reported the popularity win for a big Healey
"Nasty Boy" in a car show dominated by hot rods, 57 Chevys & co., trucks and
that sort of thing in Troutdale, Oregon, a suburb of Portland. I'm now
happy to report that a Bugeye won its class at a local "cruise in" type
event here in Portland.
The show was part of "Fremont Fest," a neighborhood event along a section of
Fremont Street. In addition to the street vendors, live music and special
promotions among the local businesses, the parking lot of a restaurant was
given over to a car show. This was the fourth annual such event.
I knew absolutely nothing about it in advance, but decided to show up and
see what it was all about. As it turned out there were about 45-50 cars,
and you could pick your own class (within reason) among the several classes
offered. I opted for "Sports Car" when "Import" and "1960s" were also
possible classes for my 1960 Bugeye. The cars were not parked by class, but
a review of the cars present revealed that my competition was a "little
bird" T-Bird (that's the earliest , small T-Birds of 1955-57 I believe) in a
nice creamy white, and a red and white Corvette roadster of about 1960
vintage. I figured the Corvette would clean up as old Corvettes are always
crowd-pleasers, plus the fact that it was red and white, normally unbeatable
colors. My Bugeye is Iris Blue (I call it Speedwell Blue) which is more or
less a Robin's egg blue or "baby blue."
Anyways, only the car show entrants could vote as the ballots were given out
in the registration packets, and when the awards were announced my Bugeye
beat the Corvette and T-Bird. I love it. Just thought you'd enjoy hearing
about another victory for the marque in the face of formidable competition.
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 22:07:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Piston Type
I asked this question once, didn't get anywhere. My pistons are marked
<1>. I am guessing that they are factory original & that the numbers had
something to do with selective factory fit. In my case the block has
never been bored so I think the pistons are original. I would like to
know also.
Dave Russell
BN2
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> I had this info. but misplaced it.
> The top of my 60- Bt7 pistons have a 2> mark on them. Does this
> indicate that they are probably the original pistons? Were pistons with
> these markings ever available aftermarket? Are they still available ?
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 07:51:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Piston Type
Yes it is for selective fit or grading and was used if I recall for
engines built by BMC in the 1960s. I do not recall exactly but I believe
that there were three grades. There was only something like a couple of
thou difference on diameter.
All the best
>
>I asked this question once, didn't get anywhere. My pistons are marked
><1>. I am guessing that they are factory original & that the numbers
>had something to do with selective factory fit. In my case the block
>has never been bored so I think the pistons are original. I would like
>to know also.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
>Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>> I had this info. but misplaced it.
>> The top of my 60- Bt7 pistons have a 2> mark on them. Does this
>> indicate that they are probably the original pistons? Were pistons with
>> these markings ever available aftermarket? Are they still available ?
>> Thanks, Mark
>
--
John Harper
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:16:26 +0100
Subject: RE: Penrite st box lube
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: 02 August 2003 00:50
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Pennrite st box lube
Listers,
Received the Pennrite steering box lube yesterday. Thanks Jon!
But how do I get this stuff In the filler hole?????? I recall this being
discussed before but I deleted all that. I have tried setting it in boiling
water but that changed the viscosity little.
TIA
Keith Pennell
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:08:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:10:20 -0400
Subject: BN2/M ignition
I had ordered a Pertronix from Steve Norton at Cape Healey, but supplied him
with misleading information (viz, that I needed a Pertronix for a BN2M. The
set he sent was a Pertronix kit formulated for positive earth distributors,
but the plates clearly did not match. When we spoke today to work out an
exchange, we discuss what kits match which distributor. For M owners, it is
important to tell the vendor whether you need the kit for an 'early M" or
"late M" distributor. The concensus is that several BN2 M's and dealer kits
were produced using left over distributors (i.e., the 40422B). This is clearly
true through at least CE 229195, and perhaps even later; possibly all M's
produced through the year's end, as that also marks the introduction of the
'buster brown' color schemes).
The good news is that there is a Pertronix for all distributors without having
to modify or jerry rig. The latter can, and has, been done for truly oddball
distributors (Mike Salter has done it on special vehicles, for example), but
it appears that with careful ordering all species of 100's, including M's, it
is not necessary.
If anyone knows of a later chassis number M with a 40422B distributor, it
might be worth posting; likewise, anyone with the later M 40520A on a car
before 229195.
Allen Miller BN2/M 229089
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:45:45 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:31:32 -0500
Subject: How to drive overdrive
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:00:38 -0700
Subject: FW: Knocking at low revs
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Banks, Tom
Sent: 07 July 2003 17:54
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Knocking at low revs
If, after having driven my stock BJ8 up to proper operating temperature, I
stop for a short while - for example to fill up with petrol/gas, then on
restarting, my engine is knocking/pre-detonating quite badly at idle. This
continues until I drive off and the temp gauge shows the engine temp
dropping down to its normal 190 F. I am using 98 octane fuel with Castrol
octane boost/lead replacement. The engine has 69,000 original miles on it
and though it may have had minor overhauls in the past, it has not to my
knowledge ever been rebuilt.
My questions to the list - How harmful is this low rev knocking? Any ideas
on what I can try to prevent it? Timing? Or is it being caused by carbon
build up?
TIA,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:13:25 -0500
Subject: Supra 5-speed trans problem
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 11:35:49 EDT
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
My $.02, after 80,000 trouble-free original-owner miles:
The owner's manual is silent on this subject, save for the admonition of not
moving the switch to normal at RPMs in excess of 'redline' for the lower gear.
This would seem to be only common sense!! The BIG thing is, NEVER, EVER
operate the vehicle in reverse with OD engaged. If, while you are driving, and
OD
does not disengage upon command, make sure you do NOT back up, even just a few
feet, until you rectify the situation.
For normal driving use, with an OD unit in good condition, use of the clutch
should not be required. Many people lift their foot slightly on the gas when
shifting up - this SEEMS to produce a more 'solid-feeling' shift - but it is
not required. Some people move the fascia switch back to normal immediately
after shifting up. This 'preselects' the normal gear, and you can then 'kick'
it
down at any time you want a "passing gear" without having to do two things at
once for a burst of acceleration. The amount of free play you have in the gas
pedal at this point is dependent on how your linkage is adjusted - but "normal"
shouldn't reengage until you come down approximately half-pedal. Most people
simply use OD as '5th gear' - very few use it on 3rd.
As an aside here, as a recent returner to occasional AH driving after a LONG
lay-up - I find that I had developed a dangerous (to AH parts!!) habit from
putting 150000 miles on my 5-speed Nissan truck, that of slapping the shifter
to
the left and back into 2nd when slowing. I only started to do it once in the
Healey; thank goodness I caught myself - probably because I'm so very much
aware of remembering to avoid the now-common tendency/ability to engage 1st
while
rolling, with a modern transmission.
Hope that helps,
Dick Hosmer
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 11:48:56 EDT
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
<< would someone describe
the proper (read non-damaging)way to upshift and downshift. I've heard "let
off the accelerator", "use the clutch", "don't use the clutch", etc. >>
>From the manual:
"The overdrive is obtainable in third or top gear by simply operating the
small switch on the instrument panel.
The fascia switch should not be moved into the normal position at speeds
which are in excess of the direct drive maximum."
Using the clutch is not neccesary or really a good idea as the overdrive pump
requires that the shaft be turning to engage the gears.
While downshifting a small "blip" of the throttle will activate the throttle
switch to disengage the overdrive before engaging the lower gear.
Rick
San Diego
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:21:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Supra 5-speed trans problem
I had the same problem. For me it turned out that the
rubber shift boot was applying just enough pressure on
the shift lever to pop it out of gear.
I ended up fitting a leather boot inside the rubber
boot by cutting out the inner rings. I can send you a
pic if you have to go down this path.
Dean BN7
> It performs
> very well except when
> cruising in straight 4th gear, it pops into neutral
> when I let off the
> accelerator.
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 10:10:23 -0700
Subject: RE: How to drive overdrive
However, I must have been just plain dumb lucky with my '64 BJ8 (daily
driver from '65-70 with 80k mi total). It was set so that flipping the
switch up immediately downshifted. I used it routinely for decelerating
without ever tapping the throttle. Maybe it was about to fail at 81k miles
but it was a great way to drive it. Ignorance is bliss. I never knew about
the caution regarding reverse and overdrive either until this list. What a
great reference.
Sincerely,
Ron
67 BJ8
37444
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:17:45 -0400
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
which are in excess of the direct drive maximum."
Using the clutch is not neccesary or really a good idea as the overdrive
pump
requires that the shaft be turning to engage the gears.
While downshifting a small "blip" of the throttle will activate the
throttle
switch to disengage the overdrive before engaging the lower gear.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:04:53 -0500
Subject: Ballasted or Non-Ballasted
Some quick advice please. I was just about to order a new Pertronix coil to
replace a faulty one. I don't recall which coil is typically found on a
relatively stock 1960 BN7 nor do I remember which I ordered three years ago.
Can someone please email me with a clarification on the need for a
ballasted or non-ballasted coil. Thank you in advance for your help.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:43:22 -0400
Subject: RE: Ballasted or Non-Ballasted
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carlos Cruz
Sent: 4-Aug-03 2:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Ballasted or Non-Ballasted
Listers,
Some quick advice please. I was just about to order a new Pertronix
coil to
replace a faulty one. I don't recall which coil is typically found on a
relatively stock 1960 BN7 nor do I remember which I ordered three years
ago.
Can someone please email me with a clarification on the need for a
ballasted or non-ballasted coil. Thank you in advance for your help.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
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From "mark lawrence" <mlawrence at rome.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 10:54:20 -0800
Subject: carburetor questions
I wish to clean or replace the air cleaners on carbs on my '60 BN7 as they look
pretty old and dirty.
Questions:
Is it better/worth the effort to clean the ones I and if so what's the best
method?
or - If its better to purchase new ones - any recommendations on where to get
them (usual suspects ok?)?
My cleaners are the metal color (same as the carburetor chamber etc.) i have
also seen the cleaners painted engine green - what's correct?
I know this stuff is prob. in archives - been trying all morning to find it -
only to get an error message.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Venice, CA
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 13:58:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Ballasted or Non-Ballasted
The typical stock Healey uses a non-ballasted coil. Pertronix suggests
that a MAXIMUM of 8.5 amps should flow in the coil primary for a six
cylinder engine. This would require a coil with about 1.5 ohms
resistance for racing applications. See this Pertronix tech note.
http://www.pertronix.com/ignition/tech/tech.htm
For street applications to get longer coil & ignitor life they recommend
a three ohm coil. This would be a #40511 or #40611 coil. See page 35 of
this catalog.
http://www.pertronix.com/2003%20PerTronix%20Catalog.pdf
Dave Russell
BN2
Carlos Cruz wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Some quick advice please. I was just about to order a new Pertronix
> coil to replace a faulty one. I don't recall which coil is typically
> found on a relatively stock 1960 BN7 nor do I remember which I ordered
> three years ago. Can someone please email me with a clarification on
> the need for a ballasted or non-ballasted coil. Thank you in advance
> for your help.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 15:58:58 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> Just for info, my 100M is #230368 built Jan. 19, 1956. It has the 40422B
> distributor.
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:40:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Body,chrome work reference
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 17:33:16 -0400
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
There are several myths surrounding the use of the overdrive, but this is
quite understandable since several techniques seem equally good. I also
understand that Triumphs don't have the "throttle switch" that big Healeys
have, so perhaps the throttle switch -- something obviously thought
necessary when big Healeys were designed and built -- isn't so necessary
after all.
In any case, I find that easing off the throttle just slightly when engaging
overdrive helps it to engage. After the RPMs drop to indicate overdrive
engagement, ease the throttle back on. When disengaging, "blipping" the
throttle somewhat after flipping the switch off SHOULD be necessary for
disengagement if the throttle switch is properly adjusted. Use of the
clutch is unnecessary and not, to my knowledge, recommended anywhere.
By the way, we'll be publishing a tech feature by Norman Nock of British Car
Specialists (www.britishcarspecialists.com) on adjusting the throttle switch
in Austin-Healey Magazine soon.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
>Reply-To: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: How to drive overdrive
>Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:31:32 -0500
>
>At the risk of being the only one on the list who's confused about the
>proper technique of using the overdrive on my BJ8, would someone describe
>the proper (read non-damaging)way to upshift and downshift. I've heard "let
>off the accelerator", "use the clutch", "don't use the clutch", etc. So far
>I've not torn anything up but I don't like driving around in the dark, so
>to speak.
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100M Story
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:01:14 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 18:10:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 15:18:24 -0700
Subject: REMINDER: PALO ALTO BRITISH 2003
PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET
SEPTEMBER 13th & 14th, 2003
Once again, be part of the biggest British automotive lawn event in
California. Over 600 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
are expected to fill the field at El Camino Park for the 24th Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
-----------------------------------------------
SUNDAY SHOW - SEPTEMBER 14th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, new parts, literature, toys, gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
Cars will be placed on the field, by marque, at about 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There
is no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
Again this year we will be visited by the Arcane Auto Society and their
wonderful, whimsical cars from around the world. Last year, this was one of
our more popular new features and there is no reason why their display will
not be bigger and more unusual for 2003!
----------------------------------------------
SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 13th The British Car Meet Tour To The Sea
starts at El Camino Park in Palo Alto - the same place as the Sunday Car
Show. This is a no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as
well as show them. It will also be open to the Arcane Auto owners. We will
be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event
will end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
----------------------------------------------
DIRECTIONS El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of
University Avenue, opposite Stanford Center. From 101 take University Ave
west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
Camino, stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the
overpass, then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. PLEASE, DO
NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE STANFORD CENTER PARKING LOT! Trailer parking will
be available on-site on the south field.
Phone: 310-392-6605 * e-mail: "Britmeet 2002" <rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:01:36 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Ed Adams
-----Original Message-----
Date: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Story
>What 16 missing 100M are those?????
>
>Randy Hicks
>'56 100M
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 18:54:19 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
That's a new one on me. Never heard of such a thing, and I've been a pretty
diligent student of Healey history for a long time. I'd sure like to see
the BMIHT certificate myself. I'll email the sellers and see if they are
helpful or evasive. Will let you know.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: 100M Story
>Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Back in May I looked at a 1967 red BJ8 at F40 Motors in Portland. They also
>had a 100M for $ 38,500. Not knowing anywhere near as much as I know now I
>bought the BJ8. In June, when it was delivered I was more educated and
>thought of going back and returning it for the 100M but decided to leave
>well enough alone.
>
>I called today to see if they still had the 100M and they do but he told me
>the following story. They have the British Heritage Certificate showing the
>car was delivered to Donald Healey for modification after it was built.
>Seems they found out three weeks ago it is supposedly one on the 16 missing
>Healey's that Donald preformed the M mod to. The car is now for sale for $
>55,000. Live and learn. The web site is www.f40.com if you're interested in
>taking a look. Still listed at $ 38,500 but he won't take less that $
>55,000
>
>
>Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 15:53:15 -0700
Subject: Supra 5-speed trans problem
I agree - my Toyota trans would occasionally slide out of 3rd on
deceleration. I had stuffed the turret part of the tunnel cover with
assorted bits of foam to seal off the airflow in order to cut down on heat
in the passenger compartment as much as possible. When I removed a bit of
the foam, the problem went away. (BTW, I use a Healey gearshift lever top
welded to the Toyota shift lever bottom with an original Healey rubber
grommet to disguise things as much as possible.)
Suggestion: Take a couple of drives with the grommet removed and nothing
else interfering with the shift lever. If the problem is still there, you
have excessive wear in the shift linkage/detent part of the gearbox, and
you'll want to visit the wrecking yard again!
Good luck,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: Supra 5-speed trans problem
Jack -
I had the same problem. For me it turned out that the
rubber shift boot was applying just enough pressure on
the shift lever to pop it out of gear.
I ended up fitting a leather boot inside the rubber
boot by cutting out the inner rings. I can send you a
pic if you have to go down this path.
Dean BN7
> It performs
> very well except when
> cruising in straight 4th gear, it pops into neutral
> when I let off the
> accelerator.
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:09:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
The was originally red, painted green by the prior owner. The car came from
Florida, and had been restored many years ago. It has a great patina. It's a
pretty car.
Wayne Carini, the owner of F40, is very accommodating with information, and
really enjoys his cars. It's worth a trip to his showroom (not all Healeys;
many exotics like OSCA, early Ferrari, etc.).
There may not be just 16... that is the tally of BN1-DHMC M's with Heritage
certificates that have already surfaced. While Geoffrey Healey has confirmed
for 100M registries is the 639 figure, representing Longbridge factory
BN2/M's, I haven't heard of of any similar count of BN1's sent to Warwick
for DHMC modifications. (I remember reading a figure some time ago, but
can't remember where, or the actual figure).
If the count of BN1-DHMC M's is not presently available, it would take a
global review of the Longbridge records retained by BMIHT, and they do not,
as I understand it, give out information except on a car-by-car inquiry, and
then only when the inquirer proves ownership.
Can anyone else shed light on this.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 17:25:54 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
Dave Russell
BN2
Pat Davis wrote:
> My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B distributor
> which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did not fit
> because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This correspondence
> has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were apparently being
> used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
>
> Peter Davis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
> Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
>
>
>>Just for info, my 100M is #230368 built Jan. 19, 1956. It has the 40422B
>>distributor.
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 16:46:06 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M Story
> Skip
> I've been at this Healey stuff for a long time and I'll admit that I learn
> more every year but I haven't heard about the missing 16 M's before. Perhaps
> some historians can shed some light or TP on this one.
> Aloha
> Perry
> <Seems they found out three weeks ago it is supposedly one on the 16 missing
> Healey's that Donald preformed the M mod to. The car is now for sale for $
> 55,000. Live and learn.>
have no worries here I have just uncovered the other 15 of the 16 missing
100Ms. This was an unknown secret that we kept under wraps at Lake Tahoe
last year during Open Roads 02. Actuall they were all in the class of 100Ms
along with the other 45 100Ms that were there.
Now the big question of these 45 cars how many were real and did anyone
figure out which of these were the missing 16 cars
David Nock
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:59:44 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'. He happens to have a
rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious inquiry
of what he has. He took the initiative to get the certificate and it came up
gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on the
'16'.
Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company. As I
noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if nobody
has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going to do
it now.
Allen Miller BN2 229089.
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 17:09:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi all,
>
> Recall that a week or two ago I reported the popularity win for a big Healey
> "Nasty Boy" in a car show dominated by hot rods, 57 Chevys & co., trucks and
> that sort of thing in Troutdale, Oregon, a suburb of Portland. I'm now
> happy to report that a Bugeye won its class at a local "cruise in" type
> event here in Portland.
>
> The show was part of "Fremont Fest," a neighborhood event along a section of
> Fremont Street. In addition to the street vendors, live music and special
> promotions among the local businesses, the parking lot of a restaurant was
> given over to a car show. This was the fourth annual such event.
>
> I knew absolutely nothing about it in advance, but decided to show up and
> see what it was all about. As it turned out there were about 45-50 cars,
> and you could pick your own class (within reason) among the several classes
> offered. I opted for "Sports Car" when "Import" and "1960s" were also
> possible classes for my 1960 Bugeye. The cars were not parked by class, but
> a review of the cars present revealed that my competition was a "little
> bird" T-Bird (that's the earliest , small T-Birds of 1955-57 I believe) in a
> nice creamy white, and a red and white Corvette roadster of about 1960
> vintage. I figured the Corvette would clean up as old Corvettes are always
> crowd-pleasers, plus the fact that it was red and white, normally unbeatable
> colors. My Bugeye is Iris Blue (I call it Speedwell Blue) which is more or
> less a Robin's egg blue or "baby blue."
>
> Anyways, only the car show entrants could vote as the ballots were given out
> in the registration packets, and when the awards were announced my Bugeye
> beat the Corvette and T-Bird. I love it. Just thought you'd enjoy hearing
> about another victory for the marque in the face of formidable competition.
>
> Cheers,
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:14:58 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Story
> I've seen the car, also. very interesting are the two additional M plaques
> on the dash. The plaque to the right of the passenger handle is identical
to
> the M-kit plaques found on the cold air boxes. The other has more text,
but
> I can't remember what it says -- it may be similar to the Sebring plaque
on
> the 100S. I don't know about both being vintage, but they may be. The
motor
> plate is loose from the car, and very pitted, but with the car; it matches
> the Heritage certificate.
>
> The was originally red, painted green by the prior owner. The car came
from
> Florida, and had been restored many years ago. It has a great patina. It's
a
> pretty car.
>
> Wayne Carini, the owner of F40, is very accommodating with information,
and
> really enjoys his cars. It's worth a trip to his showroom (not all
Healeys;
> many exotics like OSCA, early Ferrari, etc.).
>
> There may not be just 16... that is the tally of BN1-DHMC M's with
Heritage
> certificates that have already surfaced. While Geoffrey Healey has
confirmed
> for 100M registries is the 639 figure, representing Longbridge factory
> BN2/M's, I haven't heard of of any similar count of BN1's sent to Warwick
> for DHMC modifications. (I remember reading a figure some time ago, but
> can't remember where, or the actual figure).
>
> If the count of BN1-DHMC M's is not presently available, it would take a
> global review of the Longbridge records retained by BMIHT, and they do
not,
> as I understand it, give out information except on a car-by-car inquiry,
and
> then only when the inquirer proves ownership.
>
> Can anyone else shed light on this.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 21:17:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:31:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100M Story
All I have to say is I fail to see why a DMHC prepared
100M should command $11,500 more than a 'regular'
100M, which at $38,500 is already priced about $13,500
more than most other normal 100Ms in good condition.
I'm sure the guy at F40 is 'honest and
straighforward'... but I imagine he'll be holding onto
that '1 missing of 16' 100Ms for a long long time...
unless he finds a sucker to sell it to.
Now if I could only get my Australian friend to sell
me his BN3 for 2,500 aussie dollars. BN3... THAT's
what I call a rarity.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Back in May I looked at a 1967 red BJ8 at F40 Motors
> in Portland. They also had a 100M for $ 38,500. Not
> knowing anywhere near as much as I know now I bought
> the BJ8. In June, when it was delivered I was more
> educated and thought of going back and returning it
> for the 100M but decided to leave well enough alone.
>
> I called today to see if they still had the 100M and
> they do but he told me the following story. They
> have the British Heritage Certificate showing the
> car was delivered to Donald Healey for modification
> after it was built. Seems they found out three weeks
> ago it is supposedly one on the 16 missing Healey's
> that Donald preformed the M mod to. The car is now
> for sale for $ 55,000. Live and learn. The web site
> is www.f40.com if you're interested in taking a
> look. Still listed at $ 38,500 but he won't take
> less that $ 55,000
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 21:33:47 EDT
Subject: 100M Story--the REAL Story
> Seems they found out three weeks ago it is supposedly one on the 16 missing
> Healey's that Donald preformed the M mod to.
Yes, I heard that it and the other 15 were in the hold of the S.S. Andrea
Doria when it sank off of Long Island, were protected from the ravages of time
lo
these many years in "an air pocket" and have only lately--and secretly--been
recovered, restored and are now coming available, complete with Certificates
of Authenticity. All those interested in buying "a real piece of history"
should line up single file...bring money.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 21:33:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
I currently have in the BJ8 registry certificates for
HBJ8L/26057
HBJ8/30000
HBJ8/43021G
HBJ8/43025G,
all of which were despatched to the Donald Healey Motor Company, Warwick.
Perhaps these were the rare BJ8M cars?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr.
To: healeys@autox.team.net ; Reid Trummel
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Story
I have personally seen the certificate, and it says precisely what F40
states: the car was taken off the assembly line and shipped to Donald
Healey
at Warwick. Interestingly, the car was a BN1, produced in August '55, but
not "dispatched" to Warwick until November.
I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'. He happens to have a
rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious inquiry
of what he has. He took the initiative to get the certificate and it came
up
gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on the
'16'.
Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company. As
I
noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if nobody
has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going to
do
it now.
Allen Miller BN2 229089.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:48:37 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Can you guess how the car was modified?
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: 100M Story
> Good question. Anyone?
>
> Ed Adams
> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:38 PM
> Subject: Re: 100M Story
>
>
> >What 16 missing 100M are those?????
> >
> >Randy Hicks
> >'56 100M
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 20:58:53 -0500
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
If you're like me, and you've spent most of your British car driving life
without the use of the throttle switch, you can opt to bypass it entirely
and then not have to worry about it. I'm sure there must have been other
British (or Swedish) cars that utilized this switch with the electric
overdrive, but I instinctively, and much prefer to reach for the switch when
I need it. In many cases, I feel this method is better for the overdrive
unit, especially since I have better control of the engine rev's at the time
I decide to flip the switch.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
To: <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
> Phil,
>
> There are several myths surrounding the use of the overdrive, but this is
> quite understandable since several techniques seem equally good. I also
> understand that Triumphs don't have the "throttle switch" that big Healeys
> have, so perhaps the throttle switch -- something obviously thought
> necessary when big Healeys were designed and built -- isn't so necessary
> after all.
>
> In any case, I find that easing off the throttle just slightly when
engaging
> overdrive helps it to engage. After the RPMs drop to indicate overdrive
> engagement, ease the throttle back on. When disengaging, "blipping" the
> throttle somewhat after flipping the switch off SHOULD be necessary for
> disengagement if the throttle switch is properly adjusted. Use of the
> clutch is unnecessary and not, to my knowledge, recommended anywhere.
>
> By the way, we'll be publishing a tech feature by Norman Nock of British
Car
> Specialists (www.britishcarspecialists.com) on adjusting the throttle
switch
> in Austin-Healey Magazine soon.
>
> Reid
> Reid Trummel
> Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> http://www.healey.org
>
>
> >From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
> >Reply-To: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: How to drive overdrive
> >Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:31:32 -0500
> >
> >At the risk of being the only one on the list who's confused about the
> >proper technique of using the overdrive on my BJ8, would someone describe
> >the proper (read non-damaging)way to upshift and downshift. I've heard
"let
> >off the accelerator", "use the clutch", "don't use the clutch", etc. So
far
> >I've not torn anything up but I don't like driving around in the dark, so
> >to speak.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 22:03:57 EDT
Subject: 100M--The Real Story
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:12:36 -0700
Subject: Fw: Supra 5-speed trans problem
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 3:53 PM
Subject: Supra 5-speed trans problem
> Jack:
>
> I agree - my Toyota trans would occasionally slide out of 3rd on
> deceleration. I had stuffed the turret part of the tunnel cover with
> assorted bits of foam to seal off the airflow in order to cut down on heat
> in the passenger compartment as much as possible. When I removed a bit of
> the foam, the problem went away. (BTW, I use a Healey gearshift lever top
> welded to the Toyota shift lever bottom with an original Healey rubber
> grommet to disguise things as much as possible.)
>
> Suggestion: Take a couple of drives with the grommet removed and nothing
> else interfering with the shift lever. If the problem is still there, you
> have excessive wear in the shift linkage/detent part of the gearbox, and
> you'll want to visit the wrecking yard again!
>
> Good luck,
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> To: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>; "Healey List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Supra 5-speed trans problem
>
>
> Jack -
>
> I had the same problem. For me it turned out that the
> rubber shift boot was applying just enough pressure on
> the shift lever to pop it out of gear.
>
> I ended up fitting a leather boot inside the rubber
> boot by cutting out the inner rings. I can send you a
> pic if you have to go down this path.
>
> Dean BN7
>
>
> > It performs
> > very well except when
> > cruising in straight 4th gear, it pops into neutral
> > when I let off the
> > accelerator.
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 22:17:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
The fact that it was shipped to Warwick could mean any of a number of
things. Receiving the Le Mans Engine Modification Kit is one of the likely
possibilities. However, with the first "factory 100M" -- a series BN2 car
of course -- being produced on September 5, 1955, it seems odd that a lone,
late BN1 would be sent there when the regular conversion of BN2 series cars
was about to begin, and was well underway by November 1955.
>I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'.
Neither would I. I'd wait until he actually WAS evasive, only THEN would I
label him that.
>He happens to have a
>rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious inquiry
>of what he has.
It must have been quite a "studious inquiry" if he came up with some Healey
history that none of the specialists have even heard of.
>He took the initiative to get the certificate and it came up
>gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on the
>'16'.
I wonder what "Healey publications" those would be. The Donald Healey Motor
Company (DHMC) records were lost long, long ago.
>Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
>only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company.
There are no known records of this. 16 would be a very, very low number,
but not, theoretically, out of the question. However, Geoff Healey always
stated that he didn't know how many 100M models were produced (a table in
the back of one of his books, with unaccredited figures, notwithstanding) or
how many cars had the Le Mans Engine Modification kit installed prior to the
launch of the 100M.
>As I
>noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if nobody
>has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going to
>do
>it now.
The Heritage Trust has no record of this. They have only a microfilm record
of the Job Production Cards. A count of the cards bearing the "Louvered
bonnet" notation reveals that 640 (not 639) BN2 series cars were dispatched
to the DHMC, presumably for conversion to 100M, between Septembert 5, 1955
and July 16, 1956.
(Somehow I am suddenly disabused of the idea that contacting F40
Motorsports is going to throw any light on this new rumor about a "missing
16" (16 what?)... you know what I mean?)
Reid Trummel
_________________________________________________________________
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 22:26:43 -0400
Subject: Valve cover cleaning
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 12:38:15 +1000
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Clearly - I'm missing something. 'Delivered' on a heritage certificate means
'invoiced' or 'sold to' - ie the dealer/ distributors name.
The Donald Healey Motor Company (DHMCo) was a new car 'dealership' - as well
as being 'the designer' of the Healey; and a 'limited production factory'
for eg 100/S and the 'prototype' builder and the 'race preparation shop' for
the 'factory' race cars (as opposed to red & white rally cars). And they
Modified the 100M cars. And they sold standard road cars just like every
other Austin Healey dealership.
As such, many Austin Healeys would have been 'delivered' from the factory to
the DHMCo - (i.e INVOICED) just like they were delivered (invoiced) to many
other dealerships/ distributors. And some would have been "physically
delivered" - but NOT invoiced - to the DHMCo for 'rework' - ie fitting Le
Mans kits - and then they have been "physically delivered" back to the
factory - where they would be sold (invoiced) to dealers who had ordered
them (which may have also been to the DHMCo).
And therein lies the answer - if they were 'delivered and invoiced' to the
DHMCo - like my BJ8 was delivered and invoiced to the Car Mart London; or my
BN1 was delivered and Invoiced to Larke Hoskins motors Sydney - then thats
the dealer/distributors name. He's the guy who bought the car from the
factory and then 'sold' the new car in his normal course of business as a
car dealer.
Geoff Healey actually said there were "approx 1,200" (see P79 "Austin Healey
The story of the Big Healeys" - Clausager says 1,159) cars modified to 100M
spec at Warwick. John Wheatley said 640 cars have a note on their BN2 build
card indicating they had a Jensen supplied Louvred bonnet fitted. That's
where the generally accepted '640 factory built 100M's' (BN2 based) comes
from. Note the name of the dealer the 100M was invoiced to isn't the point
of differentiation here; and the DHMCo name WON'T appear on most of the
Heritage certificates of teh 640 'accepted' factory 100M cars. The
differentiation is the Louvred bonnet.
If you had a Heritage certificate that said it was delivered and invoiced to
DHMCo - AND you had an original itemised sales invoice from the DHMCo
indicating that the BN1 had a Le Mans Kit fitted - and was sold as such -
that would be a different story.
No one argues that there weren't 'more than 640' 100s fitted with a le Mans
kit a tWarwick. It's just that you can't tell which ones were, and which
ones weren't. Caveat emptor.
Unless there is something else - other than the name of the dealership the
car was sold to - on the certificates of these 16 cars - or there are some
Donald Healey Motor company invoices which match up - Caveat emptor.
So - is there something else on these 16 heritage certificates which makes
them unique ?? eg were these cars sold "without carburettors, pistons or
bonnet" (i.e. ready to be fitted with different Le Mans kit ones at DHMCo)?
Or were they just normal cars, sold to a dealer in his normal course of
business, to resell to a member of the public?
Is this speculation all just based on the name of the dealership that the
car was delivered to?????.
There must be more substance to this story than the name of the dealership
the cars were delivered to - what's the rest of the story guys!!!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
BN1 and BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: 100M Story
> I have personally seen the certificate, and it says precisely what F40
> states: the car was taken off the assembly line and shipped to Donald
Healey
> at Warwick. Interestingly, the car was a BN1, produced in August '55, but
> not "dispatched" to Warwick until November.
>
> I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'. He happens to have a
> rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious
inquiry
> of what he has. He took the initiative to get the certificate and it came
up
> gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on
the
> '16'.
>
> Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
> only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company. As
I
> noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if nobody
> has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going to
do
> it now.
>
> Allen Miller BN2 229089.
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 16:49:00 -0700
Subject: AOL
Never did like AOL
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 23:22:10 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Thank you for an excellent contribution to the discussion. Indeed, a
notation of "Dispatched to the Donald Healey Motor Company" (or whatever
the exact wording) on a Job Production Card could mean any of a number of
things, but as you point out, the most likely of those things is that it was
merely a car sent there to be put on the showroom floor for sale as a new
car. To make the leap that it must mean that it was one of some "missing
cars" or that it was some special car is, without further documentation,
quite a stretch; perhaps an exercise in wishful thinking. Perhaps we'll
learn more when/if the owner of F40 Motor Sports responds to my email
inquiry. I hope so.
(By the way, your photos of the half-scale Healey appear with Pat Quinn's
story in the August issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. I believe that it was
mailed today.)
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
>To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>, healeys@autox.team.net,
>Reid Trummel <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: 100M Story
>Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 12:38:15 +1000
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>Clearly - I'm missing something. 'Delivered' on a heritage certificate
>means
>'invoiced' or 'sold to' - ie the dealer/ distributors name.
>
>The Donald Healey Motor Company (DHMCo) was a new car 'dealership' - as
>well
>as being 'the designer' of the Healey; and a 'limited production factory'
>for eg 100/S and the 'prototype' builder and the 'race preparation shop'
>for
>the 'factory' race cars (as opposed to red & white rally cars). And they
>Modified the 100M cars. And they sold standard road cars just like every
>other Austin Healey dealership.
>
>As such, many Austin Healeys would have been 'delivered' from the factory
>to
>the DHMCo - (i.e INVOICED) just like they were delivered (invoiced) to many
>other dealerships/ distributors. And some would have been "physically
>delivered" - but NOT invoiced - to the DHMCo for 'rework' - ie fitting Le
>Mans kits - and then they have been "physically delivered" back to the
>factory - where they would be sold (invoiced) to dealers who had ordered
>them (which may have also been to the DHMCo).
>
>And therein lies the answer - if they were 'delivered and invoiced' to the
>DHMCo - like my BJ8 was delivered and invoiced to the Car Mart London; or
>my
>BN1 was delivered and Invoiced to Larke Hoskins motors Sydney - then thats
>the dealer/distributors name. He's the guy who bought the car from the
>factory and then 'sold' the new car in his normal course of business as a
>car dealer.
>
>Geoff Healey actually said there were "approx 1,200" (see P79 "Austin
>Healey
>The story of the Big Healeys" - Clausager says 1,159) cars modified to 100M
>spec at Warwick. John Wheatley said 640 cars have a note on their BN2
>build
>card indicating they had a Jensen supplied Louvred bonnet fitted. That's
>where the generally accepted '640 factory built 100M's' (BN2 based) comes
>from. Note the name of the dealer the 100M was invoiced to isn't the point
>of differentiation here; and the DHMCo name WON'T appear on most of the
>Heritage certificates of teh 640 'accepted' factory 100M cars. The
>differentiation is the Louvred bonnet.
>
>If you had a Heritage certificate that said it was delivered and invoiced
>to
>DHMCo - AND you had an original itemised sales invoice from the DHMCo
>indicating that the BN1 had a Le Mans Kit fitted - and was sold as such -
>that would be a different story.
>
>No one argues that there weren't 'more than 640' 100s fitted with a le Mans
>kit a tWarwick. It's just that you can't tell which ones were, and which
>ones weren't. Caveat emptor.
>
>Unless there is something else - other than the name of the dealership the
>car was sold to - on the certificates of these 16 cars - or there are some
>Donald Healey Motor company invoices which match up - Caveat emptor.
>
>So - is there something else on these 16 heritage certificates which makes
>them unique ?? eg were these cars sold "without carburettors, pistons or
>bonnet" (i.e. ready to be fitted with different Le Mans kit ones at DHMCo)?
>Or were they just normal cars, sold to a dealer in his normal course of
>business, to resell to a member of the public?
>
>Is this speculation all just based on the name of the dealership that the
>car was delivered to?????.
>
>There must be more substance to this story than the name of the dealership
>the cars were delivered to - what's the rest of the story guys!!!!
>
>Chris
>
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>BN1 and BJ8
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 9:59 AM
>Subject: Re: 100M Story
>
>
> > I have personally seen the certificate, and it says precisely what F40
> > states: the car was taken off the assembly line and shipped to Donald
>Healey
> > at Warwick. Interestingly, the car was a BN1, produced in August '55,
>but
> > not "dispatched" to Warwick until November.
> >
> > I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'. He happens to have
>a
> > rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious
>inquiry
> > of what he has. He took the initiative to get the certificate and it
>came
>up
> > gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on
>the
> > '16'.
> >
> > Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
> > only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company.
>As
>I
> > noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if
>nobody
> > has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going
>to
>do
> > it now.
> >
> > Allen Miller BN2 229089.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 23:32:58 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M Story
Gary Fuqua
Branson, MO
BN2 & BJ8
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 23:47:40 EDT
Subject: Re: How to drive overdrive
Regards,
Gary Fuqua
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 00:24:47 EDT
Subject: Re: V1 #924
<< Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 19:59:44 -0400
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Subject: Re: 100M Story
I have personally seen the certificate, and it says precisely what F40
states: the car was taken off the assembly line and shipped to Donald Healey
at Warwick. Interestingly, the car was a BN1, produced in August '55, but
not "dispatched" to Warwick until November.
I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini 'evasive'. He happens to have a
rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but has made a studious inquiry
of what he has. He took the initiative to get the certificate and it came up
gold. He later followed up with Healey publications to get the scoop on the
'16'.
Where I think there is considerable room for doubt is whether there were
only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald Healey Motor Company. As I
noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in the fact that, if nobody
has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the Heritage Trust is not going to do
it now. >>
Reid -- I trust that since this little piece of arcanity is in your back
yard, and you da man on 100M history, you are going to be following up on this
until all is known. Go for it, and let us all know what you find out -- we'll
be
looking for an addition to your comprehensive 100M history in the magazine and
then in the resource book.
Cheers
Gary
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 01:34:08 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M Story
"Some people have recently speculated that a large unknown number of Le Mans
cars may have been converted by Healey's dealership in Warwick before the
production of the known 640 factory cars. If this were true, these cars would
be
surfacing. The fact is, only about (sic) 14 known cars are registered which
are thought to be modified by Healey before the production run of the 640 100M
cars."
The remainder of the article states that there are (14) Pre-production "Le
Mans modified" cars, (125) "Factory-built 100M" cars and (102) Post-production
"Le Mans modified" cars in the 100M Registry.
Mr. Meade suggests that there are still a few cars trickling in, but that he
feels they are approaching a limit of (135)-(145) surviving "Factory" cars,
(so: 21-23%).
>From what I can see of the three 100 Registers, which include 100M models, we
will probably top out at 20-25% survival. I predict Steve Byers will hit 30%
survival of the later model BJ8s, so Mr. Meade's 21-23% survival seems very
reasonable.
Of course, it would seem quite reasonable that the (14) surviving registered
Pre-production "Le Mans modified" cars represent about 20% of the total, which
would indicate that something on the order of (70) cars may have been
modified by Healey before the "production run".
[A 20% survival assumption also would indicate about (510) Post-production
"Le Mans modified" cars...very close to the accepted "about 500" kits said to
be
produced]
For what it's worth.
Regards all.
Steve Mickelson
850F today in Northern California, after two weeks of 103-1120F
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 16:07:29 +1000
Subject: Re: BJ8M's
If these 4 BJ8's indeed have twin 1 3/4in SUs; louvred bonnets, leather
straps, two spark plugs leads disconnected, and two tone paint - then they
are *probably* the fabled BJ8M cars.
Keep an eye out incase any unscrupulous people retrospectively try to
'upgrade' their BJ8 register form to M spec ..... except for cars 43022-
43024 - which was obviously a valid 'batch' of BJ8Ms...
Chris
> I hope this doesn't muddy the waters too much, but does the mere fact that
a
> certificate says a car's destination was the Donald Healey Motor Company
mean
> that it went there for the M modifications?
>
> I currently have in the BJ8 registry certificates for
> HBJ8L/26057
> HBJ8/30000
> HBJ8/43021G
> HBJ8/43025G,
> all of which were despatched to the Donald Healey Motor Company, Warwick.
>
> Perhaps these were the rare BJ8M cars?
>
> Steve Byers
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 23:23:25 +0100
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
By the way a genuine original 'M' distributor would be marked
100M early 7H 1727 (YH13 40422)
100M late 27H 5579 (YH13/1 40520)
All the best
>My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B distributor
>which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did not fit
>because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This correspondence
>has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were apparently being
>used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
>
>Peter Davis
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
>To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
>Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
>
>> Just for info, my 100M is #230368 built Jan. 19, 1956. It has the 40422B
>> distributor.
>
--
John Harper
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 23:46:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100M Story - US - GI MODEL likely explanation
This is a LHD car delivered to DHMCo.
It's obvious... this car was more than likely sold to
a US G.I. stationed in Europe because Donald Healey
had the sole right to deal Austin Healeys to US G.I.s
in Europe, as agreed with Austin. The US G.I.
business is where he made most of his profit from the
company. Dispatch destination on the BMIHT cert is
typically the receiving dealer, in this case,
rightfully so, DHMCo. The fact that it has 100M
modifications is very possible, given the date of
manufacture... but it doesn't make it anything
special.
It isn't that rare.
Alan
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> Clearly - I'm missing something. 'Delivered' on a
> heritage certificate means
> 'invoiced' or 'sold to' - ie the dealer/
> distributors name.
>
> The Donald Healey Motor Company (DHMCo) was a new
> car 'dealership' - as well
> as being 'the designer' of the Healey; and a
> 'limited production factory'
> for eg 100/S and the 'prototype' builder and the
> 'race preparation shop' for
> the 'factory' race cars (as opposed to red & white
> rally cars). And they
> Modified the 100M cars. And they sold standard road
> cars just like every
> other Austin Healey dealership.
>
> As such, many Austin Healeys would have been
> 'delivered' from the factory to
> the DHMCo - (i.e INVOICED) just like they were
> delivered (invoiced) to many
> other dealerships/ distributors. And some would have
> been "physically
> delivered" - but NOT invoiced - to the DHMCo for
> 'rework' - ie fitting Le
> Mans kits - and then they have been "physically
> delivered" back to the
> factory - where they would be sold (invoiced) to
> dealers who had ordered
> them (which may have also been to the DHMCo).
>
> And therein lies the answer - if they were
> 'delivered and invoiced' to the
> DHMCo - like my BJ8 was delivered and invoiced to
> the Car Mart London; or my
> BN1 was delivered and Invoiced to Larke Hoskins
> motors Sydney - then thats
> the dealer/distributors name. He's the guy who
> bought the car from the
> factory and then 'sold' the new car in his normal
> course of business as a
> car dealer.
>
> Geoff Healey actually said there were "approx 1,200"
> (see P79 "Austin Healey
> The story of the Big Healeys" - Clausager says
> 1,159) cars modified to 100M
> spec at Warwick. John Wheatley said 640 cars have a
> note on their BN2 build
> card indicating they had a Jensen supplied Louvred
> bonnet fitted. That's
> where the generally accepted '640 factory built
> 100M's' (BN2 based) comes
> from. Note the name of the dealer the 100M was
> invoiced to isn't the point
> of differentiation here; and the DHMCo name WON'T
> appear on most of the
> Heritage certificates of teh 640 'accepted' factory
> 100M cars. The
> differentiation is the Louvred bonnet.
>
> If you had a Heritage certificate that said it was
> delivered and invoiced to
> DHMCo - AND you had an original itemised sales
> invoice from the DHMCo
> indicating that the BN1 had a Le Mans Kit fitted -
> and was sold as such -
> that would be a different story.
>
> No one argues that there weren't 'more than 640'
> 100s fitted with a le Mans
> kit a tWarwick. It's just that you can't tell which
> ones were, and which
> ones weren't. Caveat emptor.
>
> Unless there is something else - other than the name
> of the dealership the
> car was sold to - on the certificates of these 16
> cars - or there are some
> Donald Healey Motor company invoices which match up
> - Caveat emptor.
>
> So - is there something else on these 16 heritage
> certificates which makes
> them unique ?? eg were these cars sold "without
> carburettors, pistons or
> bonnet" (i.e. ready to be fitted with different Le
> Mans kit ones at DHMCo)?
> Or were they just normal cars, sold to a dealer in
> his normal course of
> business, to resell to a member of the public?
>
> Is this speculation all just based on the name of
> the dealership that the
> car was delivered to?????.
>
> There must be more substance to this story than the
> name of the dealership
> the cars were delivered to - what's the rest of the
> story guys!!!!
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> BN1 and BJ8
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Reid Trummel"
> <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 9:59 AM
> Subject: Re: 100M Story
>
>
> > I have personally seen the certificate, and it
> says precisely what F40
> > states: the car was taken off the assembly line
> and shipped to Donald
> Healey
> > at Warwick. Interestingly, the car was a BN1,
> produced in August '55, but
> > not "dispatched" to Warwick until November.
> >
> > I would not be quick to label Wayne Carini
> 'evasive'. He happens to have a
> > rare car. He is not a Healey person per se, but
> has made a studious
> inquiry
> > of what he has. He took the initiative to get the
> certificate and it came
> up
> > gold. He later followed up with Healey
> publications to get the scoop on
> the
> > '16'.
> >
> > Where I think there is considerable room for doubt
> is whether there were
> > only 16 BN1's shipped to, and modified by, Donald
> Healey Motor Company. As
> I
> > noted in the prior posting, the problem partly in
> the fact that, if nobody
> > has previously enumerated the DMH M's, the
> Heritage Trust is not going to
> do
> > it now.
> >
> > Allen Miller BN2 229089.
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 11:20:36 +0200
Subject: Re: Tires
There is an address where you can get your Michelins off the shelf.
If everything else fails, try
Oldtimer B.V.
P.O.Box 95
5590 AB HEEZE
Have phone/fax/e-mail details if you wish
Only one tiny problem: it's in The Netherlands!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 05:17:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M Story
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 06:26:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> Send the speedo and that figure to Nisonger and he will calibrate it
> to your figure and he guarantees it to be spot on. I hope that this is not
> just a sales pitch but it makes sense to me. Any comments?
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 04:37:41 -0700
Subject: Healey events SW UK?
I'm going to be driving my BJ8 over from 'the mainland' and from 9 August I
will be touring around south-west England for a couple of weeks. Any
interesting Healey/other classic car events you know of in the region during
that time? I've already booked in for the Yeovil Festival of Transport on
10 August.
Rgds,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 13:01:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Healey events SW UK?
Suggest you check the Calendar page on the AHC (UK) web site - address
below.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 08:46:18 -0400
Subject: 100M story
I had gone to see the car in April to examine the correct throttle linkage
alignment for my BN2/M, and in the process was captivated by the certificate
Wayne Carini produced. I talked about it with other Healeyscenti, and called
back to inform Wayne of the possible importance of his car, and in the
meantime he had found BIll Meade's article, which refers to 14 pre-production
M's. If correct, Wayne's made 15, and in my enthusiasm I added one for 16 in
my prior postings on this thread.
Whether the car was shipped (1) to DMH and sold to GI as a plain vanilla
100,later to be M-spec'd, or (2) shipped to, and fitted by, DMH before sale to
a GI are equally supported by the certificate.
The tie-breakers might be the two dash plaques, the rightmost of which is
clearly a vintage example identical to the one found on dealer-kit cold air
boxes. Unfortunately, I don't remember what the larger one says. It was about
the size and scale of the plaque that shows on Bill Emerson's plate of the
100S, but I cannot say more without seeing it again. Whether it is new, old or
bogus is left to the experts. F40's address and phone are 464 Portland-Cobalt
Road 7 Portland, CT 064807 (860) 342-5705. Portland is about 15 miles
southeast of Hartford. Someone in the know ought to go see it.
Incidentally, Bill Wood, who lives not too far, has a database of the 639+/-1
factory BN2/M's prepared from information supplied by Geoffrey Healey. He has
the body numbers and lot numbers as well, together with a breakdown of the M's
by color. He also has the 5-digit body and 4-digit grouping numbers for
authentication. We were relieved to learn our 229089 / 11004 was on the list,
and still has a few blue M siblings and blue BN2 cousins around from the same
production group. There were, in all, only 39 solid blue M's produced. The
other curiosity we garnered from the list that 11003 and 1105 never made it
off the production line. Bill thinks there are closer to 150 documented M's
accounted for, vis a vis Bill Meade's 125 (which our car will hopefully soon
make 126).
Allen Miller
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 10:50:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
I used Nisonger a while back when I had a speedo reading high. Sent the
speedo to him and he checked it out. Said it was as accurate as any. Did
not charge anything other than shipping.
Speedo still reads 25% or so high. Anyone out there have any thoughts on
the cause? Tranny and OD rebuilt by Healey Surgeons came in a sealed bag
with the car when I bought it.
Keith Pennell
> Thanks to all for the info on speedo rebuilders. After talking to several
I
> am going with Nisonger. He was very helpful and when I ask about counting
> cable revs he was the only one that knew what I was talking about. Here's
> the procedure. Mark out 52.80 ft on the road which is 1/100 th of a mile.
> Take out the speedo and put a piece of masking tape on the cable. Drive
the
> car the 52.80 ft. while counting the revs of the cable down to the nearest
> tenth. Send the speedo and that figure to Nisonger and he will calibrate
it
> to your figure and he guarantees it to be spot on. I hope that this is not
> just a sales pitch but it makes sense to me. Any comments?
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 08:05:16 -0700
Subject: overdrive use
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 08:22:39 -0700
Subject: distributor
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 08:41:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Keith Pennell wrote:
>James Lea,
>
>I used Nisonger a while back when I had a speedo reading high. Sent the
>speedo to him and he checked it out. Said it was as accurate as any. Did
>not charge anything other than shipping.
>
>Speedo still reads 25% or so high. Anyone out there have any thoughts on
>the cause? Tranny and OD rebuilt by Healey Surgeons came in a sealed bag
>with the car when I bought it.
>
>Keith Pennell
>
>
>
>
>>Thanks to all for the info on speedo rebuilders. After talking to several
>>
>>
>I
>
>
>>am going with Nisonger. He was very helpful and when I ask about counting
>>cable revs he was the only one that knew what I was talking about. Here's
>>the procedure. Mark out 52.80 ft on the road which is 1/100 th of a mile.
>>Take out the speedo and put a piece of masking tape on the cable. Drive
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>car the 52.80 ft. while counting the revs of the cable down to the nearest
>>tenth. Send the speedo and that figure to Nisonger and he will calibrate
>>
>>
>it
>
>
>>to your figure and he guarantees it to be spot on. I hope that this is not
>>just a sales pitch but it makes sense to me. Any comments?
>>
>>James Lea
>>Rockport Maine
>>1962 BT7 II
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 11:05:52 -0500
Subject: How to drive in overdrive
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 09:20:00 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive use
>i also talked to a british car mechanic in portland when i was having trouble
>adjusting my throttle switch and he said he had raced healeys for many years
>and never bothered with the switch, just banged it in and out of overdrive, as
>the unit was very hardy. i still wanted mine adjusted, as i wanted to keep
>the one i had healthy. your choice, i guess.
>
Just want to point out, there is an overdrive switch on the gearbox
case that, if set properly only allows the OD to stay engaged in 3rd and
4th. Whenever you are in the 1st, 2nd or reverse area the OD is not
engaged and this keeps your driving in reverse from destroying the OD
... not the throttle switch.
The throttle switch is there to keep the OD from being harmed during
disengagement under heavy engine braking conditions and to keep the OD
from engaging during normal acceleration from 2nd to 3rd (when you
forget to switch the OD dash switch off). You can drive without the
throttle switch working and not harm the OD if you understand the
conditions that put stress on the OD and avoid them. I've driven both
ways and prefer to have the throttle switch properly adjusted.
I'm sure if I have my facts wrong I will be corrected. In fact, I do
have a question ... when the OD/reverse event occurs is it always due to
the OD gearbox switch not working or are there other causes?
Cheers,
John
BJ7 under resto ...
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 09:33:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
> Hi all,
>
> Recall that a week or two ago I reported the popularity win for a big
> Healey "Nasty Boy" in a car show dominated by hot rods, 57 Chevys &
> co., trucks and that sort of thing in Troutdale, Oregon, a suburb of
> Portland. I'm now happy to report that a Bugeye won its class at a
> local "cruise in" type event here in Portland.
>
Reid,
You would probably be interested to know the Bugeye I bought from you a
year or so ago also won 1st in class at the Wheels of Britain car show
in Phoenix last March. In this show, the Bugeye was judged only against
other Spridgets that were entered. Your (now my) Bugeye is far from a
concours example, but it is a very decent driver.
The secret weapon in popular choice car shows, in my opinion, is the
Bugeye "cuteness" factor. Other cars, such as the Mini and the original
Beetle also possess this wonderful quality. You can hardly drive them
without an occasional comment along the lines of "What a cute little car".
The Bugeye won, most probably, because it was the only Bugeye enetered
that day against all the other (some quite nice) box Sprites. Against
box Sprites, in a popular choice car show, Bugeyes will usually be the
winner. Of course, Bugeye against Bugeye, the nicest looking one will
usually win. On the day of this year's Phoenix show, a much nicer
Bugeye than mine owned by a friend of mine was unable to attend, so
that's the rest of the equation, cuteness + the only Bugeye there, that
allowed my Bugeye to come in 1st.
And that's the rest of the story!
Regards,
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 12:43:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
Thanks for the update. I have wondered how my old car was doing. Glad to
learn that it is alive, well, and winning trophies!
You're right that the Bugeye's secret weapon in popular choice car shows is
the "cuteness factor," but let's recognize something else, in addition to
possessing terminal cuteness, your Bugeye is red with white racing stripes
-- NOBODY can beat THAT car in popular choice! ;-)
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Russ Staub <bbb11489@azboss.net>
>To: Reid Trummel <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
>CC: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
>Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 09:33:22 -0700
>
>Reid,
>
>You would probably be interested to know the Bugeye I bought from you a
>year or so ago also won 1st in class at the Wheels of Britain car show in
>Phoenix last March. In this show, the Bugeye was judged only against other
>Spridgets that were entered. Your (now my) Bugeye is far from a concours
>example, but it is a very decent driver.
>
>The secret weapon in popular choice car shows, in my opinion, is the Bugeye
>"cuteness" factor. Other cars, such as the Mini and the original Beetle
>also possess this wonderful quality. You can hardly drive them without an
>occasional comment along the lines of "What a cute little car".
>
>The Bugeye won, most probably, because it was the only Bugeye enetered that
>day against all the other (some quite nice) box Sprites. Against box
>Sprites, in a popular choice car show, Bugeyes will usually be the winner.
>Of course, Bugeye against Bugeye, the nicest looking one will usually win.
>On the day of this year's Phoenix show, a much nicer Bugeye than mine owned
>by a friend of mine was unable to attend, so that's the rest of the
>equation, cuteness + the only Bugeye there, that allowed my Bugeye to come
>in 1st.
>
>And that's the rest of the story!
>
>Regards,
>
>Russ Staub
>'61 Bugeye
>'56 BN2
>'67 BJ8
>Mesa, AZ
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 13:02:28 EDT
Subject: SU carb "handing"
Suppose that one is looking at a carb from the air cleaner side, and the
float bowl is to the viewers right, would that be a RH (right hand) unit?
Viewed
thus, my tricarb has the bowls to the left (front of car) on front and rear
carbs, and to the right, on the center one. So, I have 2LH/1RH?
Thanks,
Dick Hosmer
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 12:14:40 -0500
Subject: Morgan (not Healey-related)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 13:38:57 EDT
Subject: BN1 100Ms
<< Gary - check the page to see the car
http://www.f40.com/inventory.htm
it is actually Connecticut not Oregon
Am enjoying the discussion >>
There's a Portland in Co-neck-ti-cut? It is a very interesting topic. We know
from Geoff Healey's reports in his last book that BN1s on order from dealers
were sent from Longbridge to Warwick after they were completed to have DHMW
install the Le Mans modifications. Guess it doesn't surprise me that would be
recorded in the factory records that BMIHT has now. Maybe someday someone who
has access to the ledger books can spend a quiet afternoon at Gaydon going
through line by line, page by page, to see how many BN1s were recorded as
having
been converted this way.
It is a missing piece of knowledge that would shed a great deal of light on
the question of how many cars were converted before final shipment, as compared
to those that were converted by dealers or private owners.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:50:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
You may already know there is a figure on the face of the speedo under the
trip mileage counter which is the turns/mile for the original calibration.
My BN2 figure is 1325. When I roll 1/100 mile I should get 13.25 turns but
actually got 13.5 because of tyre changes. The ratio 13.5/13.25 is the
error in the speedo and mileage count. I have been able to change the
speedo reading up or down to re-cal by changing the magnetic field on the
rotating bar but mileage error requires a gearing change in the head or at
the transmission feed.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: Don Factor <don.factor@spectrummg.com>
Cc: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> Thanks to all for the info on speedo rebuilders. After talking to several
I
> am going with Nisonger. He was very helpful and when I ask about counting
> cable revs he was the only one that knew what I was talking about. Here's
> the procedure. Mark out 52.80 ft on the road which is 1/100 th of a mile.
> Take out the speedo and put a piece of masking tape on the cable. Drive
the
> car the 52.80 ft. while counting the revs of the cable down to the nearest
> tenth. Send the speedo and that figure to Nisonger and he will calibrate
it
> to your figure and he guarantees it to be spot on. I hope that this is not
> just a sales pitch but it makes sense to me. Any comments?
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:00:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Does the mileage count read 25% high as well? If so it is a gearing
difference at the transmission takeoff point where the cable attaches, as
the speedo was checked out OK. Nisonger will be saying that the turn/mile
calibration figure marked on the face under the trip mileage counter was
correct when they tested it. If the speedo only is reading high, it would
have to be a magnetic or speedo head gear problem which they should have
seen. It seems more likely the rebuilt transmission is set up for a
different back axle ratio to yours.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net>
To: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>; Don Factor <don.factor@spectrummg.com>
Cc: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> James Lea,
>
> I used Nisonger a while back when I had a speedo reading high. Sent the
> speedo to him and he checked it out. Said it was as accurate as any. Did
> not charge anything other than shipping.
>
> Speedo still reads 25% or so high. Anyone out there have any thoughts on
> the cause? Tranny and OD rebuilt by Healey Surgeons came in a sealed bag
> with the car when I bought it.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Thanks to all for the info on speedo rebuilders. After talking to
several
> I
> > am going with Nisonger. He was very helpful and when I ask about
counting
> > cable revs he was the only one that knew what I was talking about.
Here's
> > the procedure. Mark out 52.80 ft on the road which is 1/100 th of a
mile.
> > Take out the speedo and put a piece of masking tape on the cable. Drive
> the
> > car the 52.80 ft. while counting the revs of the cable down to the
nearest
> > tenth. Send the speedo and that figure to Nisonger and he will calibrate
> it
> > to your figure and he guarantees it to be spot on. I hope that this is
not
> > just a sales pitch but it makes sense to me. Any comments?
> >
> > James Lea
> > Rockport Maine
> > 1962 BT7 II
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
On a related point, are the three ignition angle values, mentioned in some
other recent correspondence, marked on the distributor advance components
anywhere? Are they visible when assembled?
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
> To all those following this thread, may I suggest that it would be far
> more informative if owners also added their distributor date codes. In
> this manner it might be able to get some idea if the distributor was
> fitted at the factory (as delivered) or fitted as a kit where the kit
> was made at a different time to the car.
>
> By the way a genuine original 'M' distributor would be marked
>
> 100M early 7H 1727 (YH13 40422)
> 100M late 27H 5579 (YH13/1 40520)
>
> All the best
>
>
> >My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B
distributor
> >which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did not fit
> >because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This
correspondence
> >has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were apparently
being
> >used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
> >
> >Peter Davis
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> >To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
> >Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> >
> >
> >> Just for info, my 100M is #230368 built Jan. 19, 1956. It has the
40422B
> >> distributor.
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:12:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Tracy. www.nisongerinstrument.com JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:35:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:44:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Could be wrong diff (should be 3.9 for a 3000 with od), and/or tires too
small (should be ~26" dia). Also, maybe wrong right-angle drive on speedo
cable.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>; "Don Factor"
<don.factor@spectrummg.com>
Cc: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> James Lea,
>
> I used Nisonger a while back when I had a speedo reading high. Sent the
> speedo to him and he checked it out. Said it was as accurate as any. Did
> not charge anything other than shipping.
>
> Speedo still reads 25% or so high. Anyone out there have any thoughts on
> the cause? Tranny and OD rebuilt by Healey Surgeons came in a sealed bag
> with the car when I bought it.
>
> Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: phil@lesliecompanies.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:05:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Rear end ratio was MY very first thought, but, even going from a 3.545 to
4.100 or vice-versa (the most difference with readily available parts) would be
only 13.5% off, so, there has to be something else, probably in the instrument
itself.
The speedo number, which I never understood before, is very difficult to see,
and is multipart - the last, standalone, figure appears to be 980. That is on
my stock BT7 with 3.91 differential, and known to be all original instruments.
However, 980/1325 (reported for a BN2) = .739 (sound familiar to "about 25%")
so, apparently the numbers can have that wide a spread. I'd guess you have
the wrong instrument installed. Can the instrument faces be swapped from one
gear case to another?
Dick Hosmer
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:28:13 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> My 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 56 and Heritage certified as a factory M,
has
> the code 1055YH13 next to the early type 40422B on the base assembly.
>
> On a related point, are the three ignition angle values, mentioned in some
> other recent correspondence, marked on the distributor advance components
> anywhere? Are they visible when assembled?
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:23 PM
> Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
>
> >
> > To all those following this thread, may I suggest that it would be far
> > more informative if owners also added their distributor date codes. In
> > this manner it might be able to get some idea if the distributor was
> > fitted at the factory (as delivered) or fitted as a kit where the kit
> > was made at a different time to the car.
> >
> > By the way a genuine original 'M' distributor would be marked
> >
> > 100M early 7H 1727 (YH13 40422)
> > 100M late 27H 5579 (YH13/1 40520)
> >
> > All the best
> >
> >
> > >My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B
> distributor
> > >which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did not
fit
> > >because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This
> correspondence
> > >has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were apparently
> being
> > >used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
> > >
> > >Peter Davis
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> > >To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
> > >Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:37:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
The speedo and mileage calibration is based on the rev/mile of the speedo
cable coming from the transmission takeoff. If you get say 13rev/1/100 mile
(52.8ft along the driveway), that is 1300 rev/mile. At 60mph road speed for
example, you will be getting 1300 multiplied by 60 = 78000 rev/hour or
78000/60 = 1300 rpm at the speedo head. So 100 times your cable turn count
is the rpm to drive the speedo to record one mile per minute and 60mph when
calibrated. This number is written on the front panel for the original
speedo application. I use an adjustable speed electric drill with a small
screwdriver blade in the chuck to drive it. If not correct the magnetic
field of the speedo drive and/or the gearing of the mileage meter rachet
drive have to be changed. Magnetic adjustment also applies to the rev
counter calibration for non electronic units. This involves splitting the
rotating assembly from the front display and raising or lowering the bar
magnet field with two other high strength cylinder magnets adding or
opposing at the ends. The higher the field, the higher the speed display.
It is also possible to install a small inline gearbox to correct calibration
differences.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; Don Factor
<don.factor@spectrummg.com>
Cc: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> Peter. I don't know how Mr. Nisonger does it but I assume that if he asks
> for the rev count of the cable he has a way of calibrating the instrument
to
> that number. He has done other cars for me using this method and they were
> right on unless I changed tyres. JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from 60's Triumph speedo's to repair the 50's Healey unit.
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:57:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; <pennell@whro.net>; <clocks@midcoast.com>;
<don.factor@spectrummg.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
> Hi,
>
> Rear end ratio was MY very first thought, but, even going from a 3.545 to
> 4.100 or vice-versa (the most difference with readily available parts)
would be
> only 13.5% off, so, there has to be something else, probably in the
instrument
> itself.
>
> The speedo number, which I never understood before, is very difficult to
see,
> and is multipart - the last, standalone, figure appears to be 980. That is
on
> my stock BT7 with 3.91 differential, and known to be all original
instruments.
>
> However, 980/1325 (reported for a BN2) = .739 (sound familiar to "about
25%")
> so, apparently the numbers can have that wide a spread. I'd guess you have
> the wrong instrument installed. Can the instrument faces be swapped from
one
> gear case to another?
>
> Dick Hosmer
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 15:02:36 -0600
Subject: Oil Wt. Conversions
Does anyone know the conversion factor from S.A.E. rating for oil/oil products
to ISO values for the same? Is it approximately 3.4 times S.A.E. value?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 17:16:06 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>; healey
list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> The numbers you seek are generally stamped into the threaded vacuum
fitting
> which is in turn threaded into the vacuum diaphragm unit. They are
generally
> semi-destroyed and difficult to read.
> The numbers/code are representative of the vacuum unit performance and
have
> no relationship with dwell angle..
> David
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
> "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 12:37 PM
> Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
>
> > My 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 56 and Heritage certified as a factory M,
> has
> > the code 1055YH13 next to the early type 40422B on the base assembly.
> >
> > On a related point, are the three ignition angle values, mentioned in
some
> > other recent correspondence, marked on the distributor advance
components
> > anywhere? Are they visible when assembled?
> >
> > Peter Davis
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> > To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> > Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:23 PM
> > Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> >
> >
> > >
> > > To all those following this thread, may I suggest that it would be far
> > > more informative if owners also added their distributor date codes. In
> > > this manner it might be able to get some idea if the distributor was
> > > fitted at the factory (as delivered) or fitted as a kit where the kit
> > > was made at a different time to the car.
> > >
> > > By the way a genuine original 'M' distributor would be marked
> > >
> > > 100M early 7H 1727 (YH13 40422)
> > > 100M late 27H 5579 (YH13/1 40520)
> > >
> > > All the best
> > >
> > >
> > > >My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B
> > distributor
> > > >which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did not
> fit
> > > >because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This
> > correspondence
> > > >has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were apparently
> > being
> > > >used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
> > > >
> > > >Peter Davis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> > > >To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > >Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
> > > >Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 17:13:47 -0400
Subject: Bumpers & Overriders
After learning of the current prices of chrome work in the United States, I've
decided to store some of my original chrome pieces until the money tree in my
back yard begins to drop $1,000 bills. Meanwhile, I'm interested in purchasing
the best available bumpers and overriders for my 100-6. There must be more than
one manufacturing source for these items, because I've been told that some of
the overriders are not properly "squared off" at the top like the originals. Do
any of you have first hand experience that you could share with me and others
who may have an interest?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
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From "acmiller" <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 17:27:24 +0100
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 16:37:45 -0600
Subject: BN2 Windshield to Front Shroud Seal
Over the years I have read much discussion on how to fit the seal &
which seal is the best. I went through the following drill quite a while
ago & still have a perfect tight fit even though the car has been in
very hot sun, rain, & snow.
I purchased a straight section replacement seal from BCS in Stockton.
With the seal were instructions for a perfect fit. No pre-curved seal
needed. Maybe it is a trade secret. I hope not. I have never seen this
mentioned anywhere else.
1- Work the top of the seal into the windshield channel a bit at a time,
don't slide it in from one end, this will stretch the seal in the wrong
places.
2- When the seal is solidly seated in the channel, apply a heat gun to
the upper thicker part of the rubber & stretch the outer end as far as
possible. Hold the stretch until the rubber cools. It took me several
trys to get it hot enough & stretch it far enough. A wet rag helped to
cool the rubber faster. The stretch & cooling causes the thicker part of
the seal to be longer than the bottom thin part, because the thick part
springs back less. This forms a very tight fitting & permanent curve in
the ends of the rubber. Trim the ends to length.
Dave Russell
BN2
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 17:06:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Bumpers & Overriders
http://www.worldviewdesign.com/vonsaustinhealey/
Dave Russell
BN2
Trmgafun@aol.com wrote:
> Hello,
>
> After learning of the current prices of chrome work in the United
> States, I've decided to store some of my original chrome pieces until
> the money tree in my back yard begins to drop $1,000 bills.
> Meanwhile, I'm interested in purchasing the best available bumpers
> and overriders for my 100-6. There must be more than one
> manufacturing source for these items, because I've been told that
> some of the overriders are not properly "squared off" at the top like
> the originals. Do any of you have first hand experience that you
> could share with me and others who may have an interest?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms Northern Indiana
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ggilliam at usol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 20:27:29 EST
Subject: Timing Chain & Tensioner
Also, on the left side of the engine block, just forward and above the
drain cock is a brass bodied device that looks like an electric switch
inserted in what looks like a core plug opening in all the parts catalog
drawings. Is this a coolant temp switch on some other vehicle?
Thanks for your wisdom and experiences,
Gordy
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 22:03:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Baby Blue Bugeye Beats Bad Boys
However, it was participants choice, not popular choice.
Keith Pennell
> red with white racing stripes
> -- NOBODY can beat THAT car in popular choice! ;-)
>
> Reid
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 21:28:14 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8M's
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 22:54:38 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8M's
In a message dated 8/5/03 19:44:05, glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
<< Actually I saw a 3000 (early I believe, definitely not BJ8) with fold down
screen (from a 100), hood strap and louvered bonnet. I think it was done by
a Healy and LBC shop in Wisconsin, but I don't remember for sure so will
leave the name off. Anyway it was up at Road America last month, no claim
of a heritage certificate or special history was made to authenticate this
rare 3000M.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1 >>
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 23:24:03 -0500
Subject: Overdrive hanging up
What's going on and how do I remedy it? Please respond to bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Brian
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 00:10:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Overdrive hanging up
Brian Collins wrote:
> I have noticed that my overdrive will stop disengaging on acceleration after
> the car gets fully hot. The secondary symptom is that when this happens,
> the car is reluctant to back up until I let the clutch out far enough to
> gently "pop"it out of OD. Then it freely backs up.
>
> What's going on and how do I remedy it? Please respond to bc1@sbcglobal.net
>
> Thanks,
> Brian
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:23:58 +0100
Subject: Overdrive Hang-up
The hang-up you describe is the Cone clutch sticking keeping the overdrive
engaged. Reversing against this brings the small uni-directional or 'sprag'
clutch into play. Only two possibilities exist at that point - either the
cone will release with a solid sounding thump, or the sprag will break with
a rather lighter crack. If the sprag goes you probably won't notice for a
while but it WILL destroy the mainshaft. Big money rebuild.
I was advised by Bill at Hardy Engineering that a stuck cone could be
released by hammering on the OD case with the wheel hammer. It didn't work
for me but gently rocking the car back and forth in gear did release it
successfully. I changed the oil and drove it. The problem disappeared
after about 1000 miles.
Be gentle with it.
Cheers.................AlanB
New Forest AHC UK
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 03:58:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Overdrive Hang-up
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From "Wm. Thompson" <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 04:59:08 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8M's
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon [mailto:glemon@neb.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 9:28 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BJ8M's
Actually I saw a 3000 (early I believe, definitely not BJ8) with fold down
screen (from a 100), hood strap and louvered bonnet. I think it was done by
a Healy and LBC shop in Wisconsin, but I don't remember for sure so will
leave the name off. Anyway it was up at Road America last month, no claim
of a heritage certificate or special history was made to authenticate this
rare 3000M.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 13:04:02 +0200
Subject: Thursday Humour (no Healey content)
****************************************************************************
http://www.joshmadison.com/humor/jokes/
what about this blonde joke:
Once upon a time, a blonde became so sick of hearing blonde jokes that she
had her hair cut and dyed brown. A few days later, as she was driving around
the countryside, she stopped her car to let a flock of sheep pass. Admiring
the cute woolly creatures, she said to the shepherd, "If I can guess how
many sheep you have, can I take one?"
The shepherd, always the gentleman replied, "Of course."
The blonde thought for a moment and for no discernible reason said, "352."
This being the correct number, the shepherd was, understandably, totally
amazed and exclaimed, "You're right! O.K., I'll keep to my end of the deal.
Take your pick of my flock."
The blonde carefully considered the entire flock and finally picked one that
was by far cuter and more playful than any of the others.
When she was done, the shepherd turned to her and said, "O.K., now I have a
proposition for you. If I can guess your true hair color, can I have my dog
back?
**********************************************************************
http://www.joshmadison.com/humor/lists/
or this list (there is also one with 50 reasons why it's great to be a
woman):
33 Reasons Why Men Are Proud Of Themselves:
We know stuff about tanks
A 5-day trip requires only one suitcase
We can open all our own jars
We can go to the bathroom without a support group
We don't have to learn to spell a new last name
We can leave a motel bed unmade
We can kill our own food
We get extra credit for the slightest act of thoughtfulness
Wedding plans take care of themselves
If someone forgets to invite us to something they can still be our friend
Underwear is $6.99 a three-pack
If you are 34 and single nobody notices
Everything on our faces stays the original color
Two pair of shoes are more than enough
We don't have to clean the house if the meter reader is coming
Car mechanics tell us the truth
We can sit quietly and watch a game with a friend for hours without thinking
"He must be mad at me."
Same work - more pay
Gray hair and wrinkles only add character
We can drop by and see a friend without having to bring a little gift
If another guy shows up at a party in the same outfit you just might become
lifelong friends
Your pals will never trap you with: "So, notice anything different?"
We are not expected to know the names of more than 5 colors
We never have a "strap problem" in public
We are totally unable to see wrinkles in our clothes
The same hairstyle lasts for years - maybe decades
We don't have to shave below the neck
A few belches are expected and tolerated
Our belly usually hides our big hips
One wallet, one pair of shoes, one belt, one color, all seasons
We can do our nails with a pocketknife
We have freedom of choice concerning growing a mustache
Christmas shopping can be accomplished for 25 people on the day before
Christmas and in 45 minutes
***********************************************************************
Hope you enjoy as much as me.
Martin
Germany
almost 100 Degrees F the last days and that in Germany!
BN4 '59
NSU 1200 TT '71
Audi A3 1,8 T Quattro
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:11:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Timing Chain & Tensioner
I'm afraid your description of the "electric switch inserted in what
looks like a core plug opening" has me baffled. I can't see anything
that looks like that. Can you supply a part number?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ggilliam@usol.com
Sent: 5-Aug-03 9:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Timing Chain & Tensioner
Continuing with the project on my BN4 (Longbridge) 47704, I am
now looking at the timing chain area. How do you determine "excess
wear", and how much slack should there be? If I tap up on the
tensioner lightly, it does move up easily and removes all slack, but
it's
own spring pressure does not. Does the oil pressure for lubrication of
the tensioner also control the tension?
Also, on the left side of the engine block, just forward and above the
drain cock is a brass bodied device that looks like an electric switch
inserted in what looks like a core plug opening in all the parts
catalog
drawings. Is this a coolant temp switch on some other vehicle?
Thanks for your wisdom and experiences,
Gordy
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 05:54:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Seat belt anchors on a bj8
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 07:17:43 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> Amazingly they are there on the end, 420755 which I guess is a part number
> and 5-17-10 as they appear. Now the question is, what do they represent?
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com>
> To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; John Harper
<AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
healey
> list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
>
>
> > The numbers you seek are generally stamped into the threaded vacuum
> fitting
> > which is in turn threaded into the vacuum diaphragm unit. They are
> generally
> > semi-destroyed and difficult to read.
> > The numbers/code are representative of the vacuum unit performance and
> have
> > no relationship with dwell angle..
> > David
> > Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> > http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> > To: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> > Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
> > "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 12:37 PM
> > Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> >
> >
> > > My 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 56 and Heritage certified as a factory
M,
> > has
> > > the code 1055YH13 next to the early type 40422B on the base assembly.
> > >
> > > On a related point, are the three ignition angle values, mentioned in
> some
> > > other recent correspondence, marked on the distributor advance
> components
> > > anywhere? Are they visible when assembled?
> > >
> > > Peter Davis
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
> > > To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> > > Cc: <RandallC2@aol.com>; <acmiller@mhcable.com>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:23 PM
> > > Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > To all those following this thread, may I suggest that it would be
far
> > > > more informative if owners also added their distributor date codes.
In
> > > > this manner it might be able to get some idea if the distributor was
> > > > fitted at the factory (as delivered) or fitted as a kit where the
kit
> > > > was made at a different time to the car.
> > > >
> > > > By the way a genuine original 'M' distributor would be marked
> > > >
> > > > 100M early 7H 1727 (YH13 40422)
> > > > 100M late 27H 5579 (YH13/1 40520)
> > > >
> > > > All the best
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >My fairly late 100M BN2L-231382, built Mar 22 56, has a 40422B
> > > distributor
> > > > >which seems to be original. The first set of points I bought did
not
> > fit
> > > > >because I assumed it would a "late" style distributor. This
> > > correspondence
> > > > >has helped explain the puzzle because the both types were
apparently
> > > being
> > > > >used interchangeably until quite late in the production run.
> > > > >
> > > > >Peter Davis
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > >From: <RandallC2@aol.com>
> > > > >To: <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > >Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 9:45 AM
> > > > >Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 08:07:00 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Front Bumper Question - Old Regulator needed - Exhaust
A few questions as I continue with my BJ8 final assembly......
1. In final assembly of my front bumper (66 BJ8) I noticed that there is a
difference top to bottom (or bottom to top). One side has a small, shallow
eliptical cutout in the center, back edge (only maybe a 1/8 inch deep at
most). This is obviously original. Does the cut out elipse go up or down?
2. I have had to resort to aftermarket bumper brackets. The ones I got do
not fit properly so I have to modify the holes (I hope that is all as I have
already gotten them powder coated) so the bumper brackets do not hit the
bottom of the front shroud. So the question, how far from the shroud is the
back edge of the apron? (say at the beading between fender and shroud).
3. I am looking for an old BJ8 regulator. Does not have to work, does not
even have to have a cover. I just need the back plate so I can modify it as
John Trifari explained for a switch to an alternator in the Healey Marque.
4. I adapted a Monza exhaust to my BJ8. However I find it seems somewhat
short. It ends before the rear bumper and I am worried about getting fumes
coming back and also carboning up my rear bumper. Can anybody out there
tell me if I should worry about this (I mean really I am getting nerotic) ..
should it go past the rear bumper or to it ???
Thanks.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 07:37:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Speedometer rebuild.
Best,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
Tracy. www.nisongerinstrument.com JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 10:59:18 -0400
Subject: front BJ8 Badge
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:11:04 -0700
Subject: MTBF
Having had a brake servo fail on me at approx. 135,000 miles and a thousand
from home got me thinking; are there "average" failure times for critical
Healey components? For example, it seems that water pumps on Healeys--and
other cars I've owned--tend to fail at about 70,000 miles give or take (newer
cars
seems to be better).
Maybe we could compile some numbers from a few owners and get a rough
idea when routine maintenance and/or rebuild/replacement of critical components
(engine, transmission, O/D, brakes, etc.) should take place. An engine will
(usually) give some indication it needs to be rebuilt (compression, oil
usage/pressure),
but some (like brake components) can fail quickly, with no warning. Hard to
predict,
I know, but I had a master cyl. seal fail at 110,000 miles, and the "same" seal
in the
servo went at 135,000 ... (almost) statistically significant. This could
indicate a
complete brake system (seals, anyway) overhaul every 100,000 would be a
good idea (I know, some of you do this more often already).
I know a lot depends on usage, driving style, etc., but I just replaced the
(original, my bad) brake hoses--37 years old--and I noticed that the new ones
came with the admonition that brake hoses should be replaced every 3 years!
How many of us do that? ;)
Anyway, I'm wondering if O/Ds have a recommended "TBO;" i.e. should they
be inspected/rebuilt every 100,000 miles? Transmissions and clutches will wear
more according to how they're driven, but I doubt anybody gets more than 80,000-
100,000 miles on a clutch. What about brake components? Steering components
(tie rods, ends, box, etc.).
Airplane engines carry a Time Between Overhaul (TBO) rating that
recommends--mandates
for commercial carriers--a teardown after (usually) 1,200-2,000 hours of
operation
(depending on the engine, turbosupercharged engines usually have a lower
number). Maybe
we can compile some recommended "TBOs" for critical Healey parts? They're too
new
for meaningful numbers, but I'd sure like to know when to start worrying about
my
Pertronix electronic points. I had a Subaru with a similar (Hall effect) setup
and it
was going strong at 170,000 miles.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: 06 Aug 2003 12:00:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Speedometer rebuild.
I found it at www.nisonger.com, as well as at
www.cobracountry.com/nisonger/home.html
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
On Wed, 2003-08-06 at 10:37, Greg Wilkinson wrote:
> Are you sure this address is correct? I get an error page when I try to go
> there.
>
> Best,
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Tracy. www.nisongerinstrument.com JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 17:02:33 +0100
Subject: RE: front BJ8 Badge
AlanB
New Forest AHC UK
Bill Eggert wrote
Subject: front BJ8 Badge
I purchased a new front insignia badge for my '67 BJ8. Expensive little
item... The red plastic covering has already broken off in pieces. Short of
replacing the entire part, does anyone have any suggestions?
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 17:04:20 +0100
Subject: RE: Speedometer rebuild.
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
attention
of the addressee(s) only and may be confidential. If you are not the intended
addressee, any use, disclosure or copying of this email and any attachments is
unauthorised - please notify the sender by return and delete the message. Any
representations or commitments expressed in this email are subject to contract.
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From "mark lawrence" <mlawrence at rome.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 08:29:41 -0800
Subject: engine # location
I am unable to find the engine # badge on my '60 BN7. According to a detailed
list of reciepts and records, the PO had the engine rebuilt in 1983. Im
assuming that the badge came off during this process or something.
Is there any other location on the engine that displays this number? (similar
to the stamped # of the tranny?)
Is there a way of getting a replacement badge?
Thanks,
Mark
Venice, CA
ps i was checking numbers based on pictures from this website:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/
--
__________________________________________________________
CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
http://corp.mail.com/careers
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 12:34:03 -0400
Subject: Re: MTBF
Indeed there is a formula for calculating Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF)
for Austin-Healey components. Years of careful, meticulous research and
commodious anecdotal evidence has suggested the following:
$ + (DH x HoD) x Wf - (SoB + ToB) + MoFa
--------------------------------------------------------
YMMV
Where:
$ = cost of component.
DH = Distance from Home.
HoD = Hour of Day (see separate table, but generally the darker the hour,
the higher the likelihood of component failure).
Wf = weather factor (see separate table, but generally the worst the
weather, the higher the likelihood of component failure).
SoB = Spares on Board.
ToB = Tools on Board.
MoFa - Also known as the Moss Factor; refers to the tendency of parts that
are not available as reproductions to fail more frequently.
YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary.
All brought to you courtesy of the Undertakers Laboratory, Warwick,
Massachusetts. Patent Pending.
Reid I'm-No-Scientist-But-Neither-Are-You Trummel
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: MTBF
>Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:11:04 -0700
>
>Listers,
>
>Having had a brake servo fail on me at approx. 135,000 miles and a thousand
>from home got me thinking; are there "average" failure times for critical
>Healey components? For example, it seems that water pumps on Healeys--and
>other cars I've owned--tend to fail at about 70,000 miles give or take
>(newer cars
>seems to be better).
>
>Maybe we could compile some numbers from a few owners and get a rough
>idea when routine maintenance and/or rebuild/replacement of critical
>components
>(engine, transmission, O/D, brakes, etc.) should take place. An engine
>will
>(usually) give some indication it needs to be rebuilt (compression, oil
>usage/pressure),
>but some (like brake components) can fail quickly, with no warning. Hard
>to predict,
>I know, but I had a master cyl. seal fail at 110,000 miles, and the "same"
>seal in the
>servo went at 135,000 ... (almost) statistically significant. This could
>indicate a
>complete brake system (seals, anyway) overhaul every 100,000 would be a
>good idea (I know, some of you do this more often already).
>
>I know a lot depends on usage, driving style, etc., but I just replaced the
>(original, my bad) brake hoses--37 years old--and I noticed that the new
>ones
>came with the admonition that brake hoses should be replaced every 3 years!
>How many of us do that? ;)
>
>Anyway, I'm wondering if O/Ds have a recommended "TBO;" i.e. should they
>be inspected/rebuilt every 100,000 miles? Transmissions and clutches will
>wear
>more according to how they're driven, but I doubt anybody gets more than
>80,000-
>100,000 miles on a clutch. What about brake components? Steering
>components
>(tie rods, ends, box, etc.).
>
>Airplane engines carry a Time Between Overhaul (TBO) rating that
>recommends--mandates
>for commercial carriers--a teardown after (usually) 1,200-2,000 hours of
>operation
>(depending on the engine, turbosupercharged engines usually have a lower
>number). Maybe
>we can compile some recommended "TBOs" for critical Healey parts? They're
>too new
>for meaningful numbers, but I'd sure like to know when to start worrying
>about my
>Pertronix electronic points. I had a Subaru with a similar (Hall effect)
>setup and it
>was going strong at 170,000 miles.
>
>
>bs
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 12:42:21 -0400
Subject: Re: front BJ8 Badge
Another solution may be, depending upon your taste and level of interest in
"authenticity," to use red paint where the enamel was. Late BJ8 front
badges were finished this way (at least many of them). I also have two such
badges that are plain chrome with no enamel and not even the slightest trace
of red paint, and my belief is that some BJ8 front badges came that way
also.
However, if your heart says go with the red enamel, I would recommend
finding an original front badge and having it re-done, rather than lavishing
attention and $$$ on a repro that will likely always look like a repro.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: COPPIFAN@aol.com
>Reply-To: COPPIFAN@aol.com
>To: Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: front BJ8 Badge
>Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 10:59:18 -0400
>
>I purchased a new front insignia badge for my '67 BJ8. Expensive little
>item... The red plastic covering has already broken off in pieces. Short of
>replacing the entire part, does anyone have any suggestions?
>Thanks,
>
>Bill Eggert
>Annapolis
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 11:41:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild.
It should be;
http://www.nisonger.com/
Dave Russell
BN2
Greg Wilkinson wrote:
> Are you sure this address is correct? I get an error page when I try to go
> there.
>
> Best,
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Tracy. www.nisongerinstrument.com JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 11:12:43 -0700
Subject: Re: engine # location
> Dear List,
>
> I am unable to find the engine # badge on my '60 BN7. According to a detailed
> list of reciepts and records, the PO had the engine rebuilt in 1983. Im
> assuming that the badge came off during this process or something.
>
> Is there any other location on the engine that displays this number? (similar
> to the stamped # of the tranny?)
>
> Is there a way of getting a replacement badge?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
> Venice, CA
>
> ps i was checking numbers based on pictures from this website:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com/
>
>
>
The engine id tag is underneath the intake manifold about 2" back of the
front engine plate. There is no other place on the engine block with the id
number. If you have the heritage certificate the engine number is there and
we can get a new plate stamped out for you.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 20:15:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Seat belt anchors on a bj8
I don't think there is much difference between a 100 chassis and a BJ-8
chassis. For what it's worth, here is what I did to install competition seat
belts
in my BN-1. I drilled holes in the floor at the rear corners on both sides of
the car, driver and passanger, making sure that I wasn't over a chassis cross
member. Also, that there was plenty of room above and underneath for a very
large (at least 2 in. diameter) washer to spread the load. (I don't see why the
instructions would say not to mount to the floor. There's hardly anywhere else
to mount them.) If you get in so much trouble that the mounting bolt/washer
would rip out of the floor, you are probably in very tight straights and the
seat belt is probably the least of your worries.
Regards,
Bill Scannell
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 22:31:15 -0500
Subject: Wire Wheel Warantee
I write this as a follow up to a wire wheel spoke problem that I wrote
about a couple of weeks ago. Number one was a "Rust Dust" that was
accumulating in various areas and also a "Distorted, Vibrating , Ringing
note" when "plunked with pencil". The sound was different than the other
56 some odd spokes so I thought it was time to exercise my 3 year warrantee
with Dayton. So off came the wheel and off came the tire and off went the
wheel to the Dayton Wire Wheel Co. If I may define the problems here
just a little bit with out boring you too much I will get to the final
solution.
No rain or bad weather driving, but I did get caught in a few showers.
The car is always stored in a dry garage. As for the vibrating spokes, this
started out with one spoke from brand new, but I let it go because they
were brand new and I wasn't holding up my driving pleasure any
longer,damnit. For some reason it spread to 4 of the spokes after 3 years
of being on the car but very little driving considering our short driving
months here.
OK, the final conclusions are:
- No problem what so ever with Trueness
- All spokes were right on the proper Tension
- Run Out (what ever that is) was perfect
- The vibrating spokes is nothing to worry about
- Only worry about an obvious "Dull Thunk" when plunked, comparing it to
the other spokes.
This would indicate a definite loss of tension on that spoke.
- Everything checked out OK
- No explanation for the rust dust around some of the Hub Nipples and where
a lot of the spokes crossed each other.
- The suggestion was to spray (lightly) with WD-40 just on the rust dust
then wipe off. And then spray again and leave it on to hinder any of the
rust from coming back.
- Recommended care for Dayton W/W was wash with mild dish soap and water.
No chemicals and no wax or polishes.
My questions still lingering in my head are" Why is there Rust Dust on my
wheels in the first place"? Come on, they're not chipped, not scraped, and
barely used. Why should there be any areas of rust if these wheels were
primed and painted properly. Man, do you know how many spokes I have to
Spray, Wipe and Spray again. What if I drove this car in the winter through
salt and snow.(God forbid) These wheels would look like Hell.
I think they got the strength and stability of the Wire Wheel figured
out now but from an appearance stand point, something was missed in the
prep, priming and painting of my wheels. And as I have mentioned toooooooo
many times before, they're choice of silver
(dull gray) paint does absolutely nothing to set off the cars appearance. It
needs to be a more complimentary silver color regardless of what the
original color was 40 years ago. (my opinion) They probably didn't have a
formula for Metallic Silver back then.
Oh, did I mention that the vibrating spokes seems to have gone away after
checking it when I got it back , go figure.
My final conclusion:
What a Pain in the Ass to have to go through all this after spending,
(can't remember, I am suppressing that figure to keep my sanity)
And the next time, I'm buying Panasports or Minilites with no Rust Dust, no
Vibrations and a nice Metallic Silver color.
Just Sharing, Mark
Any feedback, questions or comments graciously accepted.
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 23:38:03 EDT
Subject: Re: front BJ8 Badge
Good luck,
Gary Fuqua
BN2 & BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:27:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Warantee
Welcome to the world of buying "new" wire wheels. I'm
not sure about the Daytons, but the Dunlops are made
and assembled in India. When I bought mine new,
within 5 years I had almost 70 broken spokes between
my four tires... had to send them to BWW for a
complete relace with SS spokes. Best money I've ever
spent, the wheels' true is still perfect even after
40,000 miles on them after the BWW rebuild and not a
single broken spoke.
Unfortunately, probably the best option isn't "new"
wire wheels these days, I think you'd always be better
off taking your old ones to BWW or hendrix for a
rebuild and relace... and if you want new ones you
should buy them from these guys because they'll make
sure they are properly laced and trued before sending
them to you. The factory won't do this.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
> To my fellow listers with the infamous Wire
> Wheels,
>
> I write this as a follow up to a wire wheel
> spoke problem that I wrote
> about a couple of weeks ago. Number one was a "Rust
> Dust" that was
> accumulating in various areas and also a
> "Distorted, Vibrating , Ringing
> note" when "plunked with pencil". The sound was
> different than the other
> 56 some odd spokes so I thought it was time to
> exercise my 3 year warrantee
> with Dayton. So off came the wheel and off came the
> tire and off went the
> wheel to the Dayton Wire Wheel Co. If I may
> define the problems here
> just a little bit with out boring you too much I
> will get to the final
> solution.
> No rain or bad weather driving, but I did get
> caught in a few showers.
> The car is always stored in a dry garage. As for
> the vibrating spokes, this
> started out with one spoke from brand new, but I
> let it go because they
> were brand new and I wasn't holding up my driving
> pleasure any
> longer,damnit. For some reason it spread to 4 of
> the spokes after 3 years
> of being on the car but very little driving
> considering our short driving
> months here.
>
> OK, the final conclusions are:
>
> - No problem what so ever with Trueness
>
> - All spokes were right on the proper Tension
>
> - Run Out (what ever that is) was perfect
>
> - The vibrating spokes is nothing to worry about
>
> - Only worry about an obvious "Dull Thunk" when
> plunked, comparing it to
> the other spokes.
> This would indicate a definite loss of tension
> on that spoke.
>
> - Everything checked out OK
>
> - No explanation for the rust dust around some of
> the Hub Nipples and where
> a lot of the spokes crossed each other.
>
> - The suggestion was to spray (lightly) with WD-40
> just on the rust dust
> then wipe off. And then spray again and leave it on
> to hinder any of the
> rust from coming back.
>
> - Recommended care for Dayton W/W was wash with
> mild dish soap and water.
> No chemicals and no wax or polishes.
>
>
>
> My questions still lingering in my head are" Why
> is there Rust Dust on my
> wheels in the first place"? Come on, they're not
> chipped, not scraped, and
> barely used. Why should there be any areas of rust
> if these wheels were
> primed and painted properly. Man, do you know how
> many spokes I have to
> Spray, Wipe and Spray again. What if I drove this
> car in the winter through
> salt and snow.(God forbid) These wheels would look
> like Hell.
> I think they got the strength and stability of
> the Wire Wheel figured
> out now but from an appearance stand point,
> something was missed in the
> prep, priming and painting of my wheels. And as I
> have mentioned toooooooo
> many times before, they're choice of silver
> (dull gray) paint does absolutely nothing to set off
> the cars appearance. It
> needs to be a more complimentary silver color
> regardless of what the
> original color was 40 years ago. (my opinion) They
> probably didn't have a
> formula for Metallic Silver back then.
> Oh, did I mention that the vibrating spokes seems
> to have gone away after
> checking it when I got it back , go figure.
>
> My final conclusion:
>
> What a Pain in the Ass to have to go through all
> this after spending,
> (can't remember, I am suppressing that figure to
> keep my sanity)
>
> And the next time, I'm buying Panasports or
> Minilites with no Rust Dust, no
> Vibrations and a nice Metallic Silver color.
>
> Just Sharing, Mark
>
>
> Any feedback, questions or comments graciously
> accepted.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:41:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Front Bumper Question - Old Regulator needed - Exhaust
> 1. In final assembly of my front bumper (66 BJ8) I
> noticed that there is a
> difference top to bottom (or bottom to top). One
> side has a small, shallow
> eliptical cutout in the center, back edge (only
> maybe a 1/8 inch deep at
> most). This is obviously original. Does the cut
> out elipse go up or down?
Down.
>
> 2. I have had to resort to aftermarket bumper
> brackets. The ones I got do
> not fit properly so I have to modify the holes (I
> hope that is all as I have
> already gotten them powder coated) so the bumper
> brackets do not hit the
> bottom of the front shroud. So the question, how
> far from the shroud is the
> back edge of the apron? (say at the beading between
> fender and shroud).
About 1/2 inch to no more than 1 inch.
>
> 3. I am looking for an old BJ8 regulator. Does not
> have to work, does not
> even have to have a cover. I just need the back
> plate so I can modify it as
> John Trifari explained for a switch to an alternator
> in the Healey Marque.
I'm sure any british used parts place will have tons
of these they'll sell you for $5 or less.
>
> 4. I adapted a Monza exhaust to my BJ8. However I
> find it seems somewhat
> short. It ends before the rear bumper and I am
> worried about getting fumes
> coming back and also carboning up my rear bumper.
> Can anybody out there
> tell me if I should worry about this (I mean really
> I am getting nerotic) ..
> should it go past the rear bumper or to it ???
you really don't want it to stick past your bumper (or
even be flush with the back of the bumper) because if
you back into something or someone hits you... it's
the first thing to go. Better suffer cleaning the
bumper every time you wash rather than having to
replace your exhaust, mounts and boot floor because
you backed into the station wagon parked behind you at
the 7-11 . If you think it is too short you can
extend it a bit at a local muffler shop, but keep it
at least an inch short of the back of the bumper.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 22:09:12 -0700
Subject: RE: Speedometer rebuild.
-----Original Message-----
Greg and List,
I found it at www.nisonger.com, as well as at
www.cobracountry.com/nisonger/home.html
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from BWW and at they're request I was to send them back to Dayton Wire Wheel
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:13:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Warantee
Thanks again, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Warantee
> Mark -
>
> Welcome to the world of buying "new" wire wheels. I'm
> not sure about the Daytons, but the Dunlops are made
> and assembled in India. When I bought mine new,
> within 5 years I had almost 70 broken spokes between
> my four tires... had to send them to BWW for a
> complete relace with SS spokes. Best money I've ever
> spent, the wheels' true is still perfect even after
> 40,000 miles on them after the BWW rebuild and not a
> single broken spoke.
>
> Unfortunately, probably the best option isn't "new"
> wire wheels these days, I think you'd always be better
> off taking your old ones to BWW or hendrix for a
> rebuild and relace... and if you want new ones you
> should buy them from these guys because they'll make
> sure they are properly laced and trued before sending
> them to you. The factory won't do this.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 08:38:18 -0400
Subject: seat belts generally
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:06:24 EDT
Subject: Test Only
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:45:02 -0400
Subject: cold air box badge
What is the concensus?
Allen Miller
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:53:28 -0400
Subject: Re: seat belts generally
Moss has this vintage style as part 222-221 with what appears as black
webbing straps but the backing pad at the center looks a bit light in color
for leather. I still have the original vintage belts with tan leather pad
that came with the BN2 and thought about cleaning them up, then decided they
will not stop me impaling my head on the steering wheel boss and went for
three point fixing style.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:38 AM
Subject: seat belts generally
> I bought a pair of generic black seatbelts for my 100 and am not too happy
> with the appearance. Does anyone know where to buy the traditional
> competititon style belts with canvass straps and the leather backing for
the
> hookup? allen
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:39:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Exhaust Question
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 09:59:48 -0500
Subject: REAR BUMPERS
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 16:20:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Exhaust Question
I'm sure it would be possible to devise a couple of over-tube
extensions, held on in such a way that they would slide along the normal
tailpipes on impact, rather than trash your exhaust system.
Aren't these standard items, for guys with modern cars who feel their
tailpipes need a bit of chrome embellishment?
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 08:31:34 -0700
Subject: RE: Exhaust Question
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan F Cross [mailto:alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:20 AM
To: Freese, Ken
Cc: 'Blue One Hundred'; James Sailer; Healey List
Subject: Re: Exhaust Question
In message
<95BCBE4888A14F43A84B9092A89CFFD202776ACE@apd-mail1.aerojetpd.com>,
"Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> writes
>My wife insists on having the tips well past the bumper. She says it
>reduces fumes coming back into the car. My ankles suffer accordingly. I
>would try to duplicate the stock length in this regard, figuring that
>the length was
>determined by engineers.
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
I'm sure it would be possible to devise a couple of over-tube
extensions, held on in such a way that they would slide along the normal
tailpipes on impact, rather than trash your exhaust system.
Aren't these standard items, for guys with modern cars who feel their
tailpipes need a bit of chrome embellishment?
--
Alan F Cross
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 10:39:53 -0600
Subject: Re: REAR BUMPERS
There is some tilt adjustment where the brackets (spring bars) bolt to
the frame. The bumper can be raised or lowered a bit to change the
bumper tilt. Also you can install tapered shims between the bumper & the
brackets to tilt it out at the top. Shims are available at body shop
supply stores. Lastly, you can bend the bracket ends to tilt the top of
the bumper out. This can be done with a large crescent wrench & some
care. It takes some time & fiddling around to get things perfect & all
holes lined up.
Dave Russell
BN2
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Hi all, just had my original BT7 Mk2 bumpers rechromed and they look great.
> I've seen many AH rear bumpers on cars (including my own) where the L&R
> corners appear to be angled downward and I've also seen many others where the
> bumper corners seem to be more or less horizontal. What's the deal here?? Is
> there some kind of adjustment I'm missing or some mounting mistake I'm
> making?? I haven't mounted the license plate or light apparatus yet. I'd
> like for mine not to have the downward slant. Thanks for your help!!
> Jack
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 09:49:09 -0700
Subject: Re: REAR BUMPERS
The fix is real easy - after the bumper bolts are all tight and the bumper
is where you want it (ie: centred on the car), just grab the ends of the
bumper one at a time and reef up on them until it is lined up horizontally -
simple. Of course, this fix assumes that the bumper irons are not bent and
the bumper iron mountings on the frame are not distorted.
I've done it many times - haven't screwed up one yet!
Let us know how it goes.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 7:59 AM
Subject: REAR BUMPERS
Hi all, just had my original BT7 Mk2 bumpers rechromed and they look great.
I've seen many AH rear bumpers on cars (including my own) where the L&R
corners appear to be angled downward and I've also seen many others where
the
bumper corners seem to be more or less horizontal. What's the deal here??
Is
there some kind of adjustment I'm missing or some mounting mistake I'm
making?? I haven't mounted the license plate or light apparatus yet. I'd
like for mine not to have the downward slant. Thanks for your help!!
Jack
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 13:22:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Warantee
On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:27:12 -0700 (PDT)
Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Mark -
>
>Welcome to the world of buying "new" wire wheels. I'm
>not sure about the Daytons, but the Dunlops are made
>and assembled in India. When I bought mine new,
>within 5 years I had almost 70 broken spokes between
>my four tires... had to send them to BWW for a
>complete relace with SS spokes. Best money I've ever
>spent, the wheels' true is still perfect even after
>40,000 miles on them after the BWW rebuild and not a
>single broken spoke.
>
>Unfortunately, probably the best option isn't "new"
>wire wheels these days, I think you'd always be better
>off taking your old ones to BWW or hendrix for a
>rebuild and relace... and if you want new ones you
>should buy them from these guys because they'll make
>sure they are properly laced and trued before sending
>them to you. The factory won't do this.
>
>Regards,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- Mark and kathy LaPierre
><mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
>> To my fellow listers with the infamous Wire
>> Wheels,
>>
>> I write this as a follow up to a wire wheel
>> spoke problem that I wrote
>> about a couple of weeks ago. Number one was a "Rust
>> Dust" that was
>> accumulating in various areas and also a
>> "Distorted, Vibrating , Ringing
>> note" when "plunked with pencil". The sound was
>> different than the other
>> 56 some odd spokes so I thought it was time to
>> exercise my 3 year warrantee
>> with Dayton. So off came the wheel and off came the
>> tire and off went the
>> wheel to the Dayton Wire Wheel Co. If I may
>> define the problems here
>> just a little bit with out boring you too much I
>> will get to the final
>> solution.
>> No rain or bad weather driving, but I did get
>> caught in a few showers.
>> The car is always stored in a dry garage. As for
>> the vibrating spokes, this
>> started out with one spoke from brand new, but I
>> let it go because they
>> were brand new and I wasn't holding up my driving
>> pleasure any
>> longer,damnit. For some reason it spread to 4 of
>> the spokes after 3 years
>> of being on the car but very little driving
>> considering our short driving
>> months here.
>>
>> OK, the final conclusions are:
>>
>> - No problem what so ever with Trueness
>>
>> - All spokes were right on the proper Tension
>>
>> - Run Out (what ever that is) was perfect
>>
>> - The vibrating spokes is nothing to worry about
>>
>> - Only worry about an obvious "Dull Thunk" when
>> plunked, comparing it to
>> the other spokes.
>> This would indicate a definite loss of tension
>> on that spoke.
>>
>> - Everything checked out OK
>>
>> - No explanation for the rust dust around some of
>> the Hub Nipples and where
>> a lot of the spokes crossed each other.
>>
>> - The suggestion was to spray (lightly) with WD-40
>> just on the rust dust
>> then wipe off. And then spray again and leave it on
>> to hinder any of the
>> rust from coming back.
>>
>> - Recommended care for Dayton W/W was wash with
>> mild dish soap and water.
>> No chemicals and no wax or polishes.
>>
>>
>>
>> My questions still lingering in my head are" Why
>> is there Rust Dust on my
>> wheels in the first place"? Come on, they're not
>> chipped, not scraped, and
>> barely used. Why should there be any areas of rust
>> if these wheels were
>> primed and painted properly. Man, do you know how
>> many spokes I have to
>> Spray, Wipe and Spray again. What if I drove this
>> car in the winter through
>> salt and snow.(God forbid) These wheels would look
>> like Hell.
>> I think they got the strength and stability of
>> the Wire Wheel figured
>> out now but from an appearance stand point,
>> something was missed in the
>> prep, priming and painting of my wheels. And as I
>> have mentioned toooooooo
>> many times before, they're choice of silver
>> (dull gray) paint does absolutely nothing to set off
>> the cars appearance. It
>> needs to be a more complimentary silver color
>> regardless of what the
>> original color was 40 years ago. (my opinion) They
>> probably didn't have a
>> formula for Metallic Silver back then.
>> Oh, did I mention that the vibrating spokes seems
>> to have gone away after
>> checking it when I got it back , go figure.
>>
>> My final conclusion:
>>
>> What a Pain in the Ass to have to go through all
>> this after spending,
>> (can't remember, I am suppressing that figure to
>> keep my sanity)
>>
>> And the next time, I'm buying Panasports or
>> Minilites with no Rust Dust, no
>> Vibrations and a nice Metallic Silver color.
>>
>> Just Sharing, Mark
>>
>>
>> Any feedback, questions or comments graciously
>> accepted.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 12:56:31 -0500
Subject: Re: REAR BUMPERS
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 13:03:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust Question
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 16:22:46 EDT
Subject: Re: seat belts generally
Visit this site, I think this is what you're looking for...
http://www.teamsimpson.com/catalog/restraints/latchlinkbelts.asp
Best Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From russward at lineone.net
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 22:00:11 +0100
Subject: WATER PUMPS
Answers appreciated
Mell
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 18:33:30 -0400
Subject: RE: Exhaust Question
FWIW, my ANSA pipes extend out past the bumpers and I have never hit
anything with them---now---maybe I have tripped over them, but that's
because I'm clumsy:)
I feel better with them out there----it puts the exhause more in the
mainstream so it can be taken away from the car--at least thats what i
think it does.
tom
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 21:20:14 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
The reproduction ones fail to install the proper locking plates behind the
carbs. The originals have a steel plate behind the carb mounting points.
Each of the two plates are attached to the aluminum with four rivets. The
repro boxes do not have the rivets. Slipper guys like me might install the
four rivets. Let me know and I will send to you the specifications for
installing the rivets.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:45 AM
Subject: cold air box badge
I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say definitively
whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
square
with the box, and that is about it.
What is the concensus?
Allen Miller
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 06:56:42 EDT
Subject: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
Happy Healeying,
Rick
"You can always drive a fast car slow, but never a slow car fast."
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 07:37:40 EDT
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
> The way to tell if you have an original cold air box .
There is also a slight but perceptible difference in the style and alignment
of the lettering between the original and reproduction CAB plates.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans (NOT an M)
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 06:48:19 -0500
Subject: Re: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 5:56 AM
Subject: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
> I know it's Friday, but this isn't a joke. And I acknowledge in advance
> being guilty of starting one of those, "How much is my Healey worth?"
threads I
> usually detest. But anyway, whilst perusing the Sept. issue of Automobile
> magazine, I noticed a report from the June 5, 2003 Christie's auction in
NYC
> describing the sale of H-BT7-L/1941, black over red leather, black top,
Chrome wire
> wheels, overdrive. Restored from the chassis up, including engine,
gearbox,
> suspension, paint, and interior. Everything done to the very highest
standard.
> Extremely attractive . -$68, 150. Interestingly, a 1967 Series 1, XK-E
> Coupe, (which I think is the most attractive of the E-types) in similar
condition
> and with receipts of $45,000 for the resto, sold for $44,650. Mark I
owners,
> run out and buy the mag now to show the wife when she starts complaining
about
> those Healey bills!
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
>
> "You can always drive a fast car slow, but never a slow car fast."
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From DLthm at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 09:12:25 EDT
Subject: Re: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
Dave
Wales UK
1953 BN1 100/4
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 10:17:46 -0400
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded on
the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the "H"
, not the "A".
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: cold air box badge
> I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
> factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say
definitively
> whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
square
> with the box, and that is about it.
>
> What is the concensus?
>
> Allen Miller
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 07:28:35 -0700
Subject: thoughts from a Healey wife
Jonathan took advantage of my being out of town with a kid back in
February to troubleshoot the engine (total rebuild). It has been a
time-consuming and expensive process: From the "few hours" on most
Saturday mornings which inevitably last all weekend to the pre-dawn
phone calls to England for parts, to a delivery at my work which looked
like mummified human body parts (exhaust system), to the manuals and
catalogs strewn everywhere, to the VISA bills which I just don't look
at anymore, "our" Healey is back on the road.
The last of our human children leaves for college in 6 weeks. This
British beast in the garage cannot replace them, but it is hoped to be
the vehicle into our post-parenthood future. We were married in a
Bugeye 25 summers ago, with several British sports car dalliances along
the way, and now we come full circle. The smell, the sound, the feel,
are all so right. The road calls and I hope we answer for a long time!
To the gentlemen in the fray who are blessed with both Healeys AND
wives, pause every now and then and appreciate the woman who hopefully
sits in the passenger seat (I may be allowed to drive someday--but not
yet.) May the smell, the sound and the feel of she who pumps blood
rather than motor oil be almost as appealing on a warm summer outing.
The 3 of us (man/woman/Healey) plan one or two limited day trips into
the wine country this weekend. (Can't go too far with the new engine
during the crucial break-in period.) If you see a gun-metal gray 2
seater amongst the vineyards of Northern CA, tip of the hat and kiss
the wife and count your blessings. We will be counting ours.
Carole Quandt
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 10:31:14 -0400
Subject: Re: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
Just picked up the magazine. I have a 60 BT7, complete frame up
restoration, ready for paint, new Heritage interior ready to install. Best
offer over $65,000.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 BT7
At 06:56 AM 8/8/2003, you wrote:
>I know it's Friday, but this isn't a joke. And I acknowledge in advance
>being guilty of starting one of those, "How much is my Healey worth?"
>threads I
>usually detest. But anyway, whilst perusing the Sept. issue of Automobile
>magazine, I noticed a report from the June 5, 2003 Christie's auction in NYC
>describing the sale of H-BT7-L/1941, black over red leather, black top,
>Chrome wire
>wheels, overdrive. Restored from the chassis up, including engine, gearbox,
>suspension, paint, and interior. Everything done to the very highest
>standard.
>Extremely attractive . -$68, 150. Interestingly, a 1967 Series 1, XK-E
>Coupe, (which I think is the most attractive of the E-types) in similar
>condition
>and with receipts of $45,000 for the resto, sold for $44,650. Mark I owners,
>run out and buy the mag now to show the wife when she starts complaining
>about
>those Healey bills!
>
>Happy Healeying,
>Rick
>
>"You can always drive a fast car slow, but never a slow car fast."
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 10:37:54 -0600
Subject: Patrick Quinn
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From Richard Gordon <HealeyHundred at comcast.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 10:45:57 -0600
Subject: Trip to NY
Juli and I will be heading east in mid october. The 17th, 18th and 19th
are reserved for family, but, We are wondering if there are any Healey
events planned for before or after that weekend. A week earlier or
later could fit in. Perhaps one of the clubs up that way is planning a
fall colour drive that we could follow along. We will be visiting
family in Chadsford, PA and Bedford, NY. We would like to spend a
couple of days in NYC and have a week or so to do other sight seeing,
visiting, touring, whatever. Any suggestions?
Please reply off list, or call.
Thanks,
Richard Gordon
303-756-7427
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 09:48:41 -0700
Subject: Engine Rebuilt???
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 13:15:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuilt???
They were all painted a metallic puke green. So someone
has painted it. Does not prove a rebuild for sure.
Tracy
On Fri, 08 Aug 2003 09:48:41 -0700
"Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Does the fact that my engine (61BN7) is painted red
>(including the head)
>indicate it was removed by some prior owner and probably
>rebuilt??
>Would an engine ever be painted red from the factory?
>Ron
>61BN7
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 11:09:07 -0700
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
Thank you so much for this. Every day I am grateful that my wife is
unwavering in her support of my enthusiasm, is accepting of our life with
British cars, and participates in and enjoys this wonderful passion.
You words brought tears to my eyes..........
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC Canada
1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 7:28 AM
Subject: thoughts from a Healey wife
> "Our" 56 100-4 went back on the road for the first time in 6 months
> last night.
>
> Jonathan took advantage of my being out of town with a kid back in
> February to troubleshoot the engine (total rebuild). It has been a
> time-consuming and expensive process: From the "few hours" on most
> Saturday mornings which inevitably last all weekend to the pre-dawn
> phone calls to England for parts, to a delivery at my work which looked
> like mummified human body parts (exhaust system), to the manuals and
> catalogs strewn everywhere, to the VISA bills which I just don't look
> at anymore, "our" Healey is back on the road.
>
> The last of our human children leaves for college in 6 weeks. This
> British beast in the garage cannot replace them, but it is hoped to be
> the vehicle into our post-parenthood future. We were married in a
> Bugeye 25 summers ago, with several British sports car dalliances along
> the way, and now we come full circle. The smell, the sound, the feel,
> are all so right. The road calls and I hope we answer for a long time!
>
> To the gentlemen in the fray who are blessed with both Healeys AND
> wives, pause every now and then and appreciate the woman who hopefully
> sits in the passenger seat (I may be allowed to drive someday--but not
> yet.) May the smell, the sound and the feel of she who pumps blood
> rather than motor oil be almost as appealing on a warm summer outing.
>
> The 3 of us (man/woman/Healey) plan one or two limited day trips into
> the wine country this weekend. (Can't go too far with the new engine
> during the crucial break-in period.) If you see a gun-metal gray 2
> seater amongst the vineyards of Northern CA, tip of the hat and kiss
> the wife and count your blessings. We will be counting ours.
>
> Carole Quandt
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From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 18:31:17 +0000
Subject: engine rebuild
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 13:49:35 -0600
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
I agree with Doug,! I too am blessed with a lass who can only be described as
the
world's greatest car enthusiast - I'm glad were at some considerable distance
from Barrett-Jackson or the double attached garage would be overflowing. She
supported my Formula Ford career and regional rallying passion ;and she competed
in local events such as autocrosses and hill climbs while trying to cope with my
dyslexic instructions while competing in fun rallies. Now with the move into
LBCs, the BJ8 and Moggie are high on her list - again thanks for providing such
great comments Margaret would totally agree with you!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
(the great white north)
Doug Ingram wrote:
> Carole,
>
> Thank you so much for this. Every day I am grateful that my wife is
> unwavering in her support of my enthusiasm, is accepting of our life with
> British cars, and participates in and enjoys this wonderful passion.
>
> You words brought tears to my eyes..........
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC Canada
> 1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt" <fourqz@earthlink.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 7:28 AM
> Subject: thoughts from a Healey wife
>
> > "Our" 56 100-4 went back on the road for the first time in 6 months
> > last night.
> >
> > Jonathan took advantage of my being out of town with a kid back in
> > February to troubleshoot the engine (total rebuild). It has been a
> > time-consuming and expensive process: From the "few hours" on most
> > Saturday mornings which inevitably last all weekend to the pre-dawn
> > phone calls to England for parts, to a delivery at my work which looked
> > like mummified human body parts (exhaust system), to the manuals and
> > catalogs strewn everywhere, to the VISA bills which I just don't look
> > at anymore, "our" Healey is back on the road.
> >
> > The last of our human children leaves for college in 6 weeks. This
> > British beast in the garage cannot replace them, but it is hoped to be
> > the vehicle into our post-parenthood future. We were married in a
> > Bugeye 25 summers ago, with several British sports car dalliances along
> > the way, and now we come full circle. The smell, the sound, the feel,
> > are all so right. The road calls and I hope we answer for a long time!
> >
> > To the gentlemen in the fray who are blessed with both Healeys AND
> > wives, pause every now and then and appreciate the woman who hopefully
> > sits in the passenger seat (I may be allowed to drive someday--but not
> > yet.) May the smell, the sound and the feel of she who pumps blood
> > rather than motor oil be almost as appealing on a warm summer outing.
> >
> > The 3 of us (man/woman/Healey) plan one or two limited day trips into
> > the wine country this weekend. (Can't go too far with the new engine
> > during the crucial break-in period.) If you see a gun-metal gray 2
> > seater amongst the vineyards of Northern CA, tip of the hat and kiss
> > the wife and count your blessings. We will be counting ours.
> >
> > Carole Quandt
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 14:52:29 -0500
Subject: Re: $68, 150 for a BT7 ?!?!?!
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 17:09:25 EDT
Subject: healey art
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:06:00 -0400
Subject: 100M ignition - Pertronix
Tomorrow I will test continuity on the ignition coil and make sure I did not
damage anything, but I have already checked the Pertronix wiring and verified
it is done per instructions.
Several questions:
1. For those of you who have been through this, should the motor fire right
up if the timing with points was correct before you install the unit, or is
the timing thrown so far off that you have to start all over hunting for the
mark?
2. I have not installed a direct ground wire to the coil's + side, as there
was a grounding wire there already. Should this be augmented with a direct
stranded ground wire to the firewall?
3. Pertronix said not to have any other wires connected to the coil.
However, the stock wiring harness in my car has a second wire connected to the
hot (-) side of the coil. Should this be disconnected? What is it (white wire,
which I believe goes over to the fuse board, but not sure). If this is the
main feed to the auxillary circuits (e.g., lights, etc.), can I still take the
feed from the distributor, despite what Pertronix instructions say?
4. If it is a timing problem, can you start the motor by loosening the
disty and rotating it until it fires? I've never done this before.
thanks. allen
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:21:54 EDT
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
> If you see a gun-metal gray 2
> seater amongst the vineyards of Northern CA, tip of the hat and kiss
> the wife and count your blessings. We will be counting ours.
>
> Carole Quandt
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From "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant at charter.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:29:51 -0400
Subject: Whats the process for troubleshooting electronic ignition
The other evening (one of only a few dry ones in New England this summer),
the car started mis-firing and losing power - then refused to keep running.
Engine cranks over in a fine fashion, and there is ample fuel.
Once I got it towed home (all of a half mile and 4 hours later), and could
figit at leisure I put a timing light on the lead from the coil to the
distributor and it looks like I'm getting no spark. Since I had a spare
coil, I replaced it - with the same result - no spark. I assume the coils
are OK.
end question is - what's the next series of steps for checking out the
electronic ignition.
This is the first time in 30 years I haven't been able to get this car
started.
thanks
Roger Bowker
Harvard, Ma
59BT7
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 17:01:26 -0700
Subject: Re: healey art
It is indeed the 8/98 edition.
The credit on the inside of the magazine states "A period illustration
depicts an Austin-Healey 100-6 overtaking an Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider.
Circa 1958."
No artist credit shown, but perhaps Reid Trummel can find out more. Reid?
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 2:09 PM
Subject: healey art
> A friend of mine showed me a copy of a painting that he believes graced
the
> cover of the 8/98 healey magazine. It was a painting of a white1959 Alfa
Romeo
> veloce and a red Longbridge Healey in a race setting. Exactly who was
> overtaking who I'm sure depends on the viewer. Anyway I would be
interested in knowing
> more about the picture and if prints are available or (gasp!) the original
> blah, blah. Anybody know of it?
>
> Scott McPherson
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 20:07:26 -0400
Subject: Healey at auction
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 20:14:53 -0400
Subject: Pertronix Second Strike
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 17:52:26 -0700
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
> Allen,
>
> In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
> is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
> was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
> The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded on
> the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
> held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
> compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the "H"
> , not the "A".
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
>
Hi Peter,
I'm the second owner of my BN1 which had a Le Mans kit added by the PO in 1954.
He added all parts of the kit with the exception of the louvered bonnet. (He
was
a racer and wasn't about to trash the alloy bonnet for a heavier steel one.) My
original cold air box is exactly as you describe. It certainly is thin, now
with
many vibration cracks and very crudely made. There was never a plaque attached
to it.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:49:15 -0500
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:28 AM
Subject: thoughts from a Healey wife
> "Our" 56 100-4 went back on the road for the first time in 6 months
> last night.
>
> Jonathan took advantage of my being out of town with a kid back in
> February to troubleshoot the engine (total rebuild). It has been a
> time-consuming and expensive process: From the "few hours" on most
> Saturday mornings which inevitably last all weekend to the pre-dawn
> phone calls to England for parts, to a delivery at my work which looked
> like mummified human body parts (exhaust system), to the manuals and
> catalogs strewn everywhere, to the VISA bills which I just don't look
> at anymore, "our" Healey is back on the road.
>
> The last of our human children leaves for college in 6 weeks. This
> British beast in the garage cannot replace them, but it is hoped to be
> the vehicle into our post-parenthood future. We were married in a
> Bugeye 25 summers ago, with several British sports car dalliances along
> the way, and now we come full circle. The smell, the sound, the feel,
> are all so right. The road calls and I hope we answer for a long time!
>
> To the gentlemen in the fray who are blessed with both Healeys AND
> wives, pause every now and then and appreciate the woman who hopefully
> sits in the passenger seat (I may be allowed to drive someday--but not
> yet.) May the smell, the sound and the feel of she who pumps blood
> rather than motor oil be almost as appealing on a warm summer outing.
>
> The 3 of us (man/woman/Healey) plan one or two limited day trips into
> the wine country this weekend. (Can't go too far with the new engine
> during the crucial break-in period.) If you see a gun-metal gray 2
> seater amongst the vineyards of Northern CA, tip of the hat and kiss
> the wife and count your blessings. We will be counting ours.
>
> Carole Quandt
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 18:56:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Whats the process for troubleshooting electronic ignition
I'm surprised that you had some misfiring, when the Pertronix units fail,
they usually just quit very suddenly, which is exactly what happened to
mine. With a known good coil, and no spark at the coil, the Pertronix is
strongly suspect. I couldn't determine any way to test it further, and being
stranded at the side of the road a fair ways from home, I installed a set of
points and condensor, and the problem was solved. The old
swap-it-out-and-see-what-happens method. This is probably your best option.
BTW, the warranty on the Pertronix ignitor is 30 months, I sent mine off for
their evaluation and a decision regarding replacement. It lasted 28 months.
>From now on, if I run a Pertronix, I'll carry a spare........
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 4:29 PM
Subject: Whats the process for troubleshooting electronic ignition
(Pertronix)
> I've had a pertronix ignition in my BT7 for over a year now and it's been
> working great.
>
> The other evening (one of only a few dry ones in New England this summer),
> the car started mis-firing and losing power - then refused to keep
running.
> Engine cranks over in a fine fashion, and there is ample fuel.
>
> Once I got it towed home (all of a half mile and 4 hours later), and could
> figit at leisure I put a timing light on the lead from the coil to the
> distributor and it looks like I'm getting no spark. Since I had a spare
> coil, I replaced it - with the same result - no spark. I assume the coils
> are OK.
>
> end question is - what's the next series of steps for checking out the
> electronic ignition.
>
> This is the first time in 30 years I haven't been able to get this car
> started.
>
> thanks
>
> Roger Bowker
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:03:13 -0700
Subject: Fw: Poster for sale!!!!
I'll send this on to the large healeys autox.team.net mailing list. Perhaps
someone out there might be interested in your poster and contact you.
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Hand" <damhand@rev.net>
To: <webmaster@healey.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 5:48 PM
Subject: Poster for sale!!!!
I don't own a big healey but I have a framed poster signed by seven of the
factory drivers in 1990 @ mid ohio. Anyone interested??????
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 19:14:48 -0700
Subject: Fw: Austin Healey for sale
I spoke with Lois the other day. She needs to sell their 1962 Modified
Austin-Healey.
>From their website:
1962 Austin Healey 3000 Mark II Roadster
( 4-seater) Ford V-8 289 Motor w/3-speed w/overdrive
Solid chrome wheels and has a Current license.
New Lowered Price! $17,500.00, or Best offer!
For pictures, see their website: http://www.llgunn.com/AH/
Contact her at:
Lois Gunnerson
llguun1@cox.net
480-949-0031
... No other knowledge then what's offered here...
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
LeRoi & Lois Gunnerson
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 21:07:40 -0500
Subject: 100M ignition - Pertronix
> I got the correct mounting plate from Steve Norton at Cape in record time
> once we discovered the 40422B distributor on early BN2/M's is really
> configured the same as the BN1's distributor. The mounting was a snap,
with
> the magnet ring and sensor aligning perfectly. However, the car will not
fire;
> just turns over rapidly.
>
> Tomorrow I will test continuity on the ignition coil and make sure I did
not
> damage anything, but I have already checked the Pertronix wiring and
verified
> it is done per instructions.
>
> Several questions:
>
> 1. For those of you who have been through this, should the motor fire
right
> up if the timing with points was correct before you install the unit, or
is
> the timing thrown so far off that you have to start all over hunting for
the
> mark?
If it is the same as that I got for my BN1 I had to turn the ditributor a
bit to get timing right, but no so far that it owuldn't run at all, quick
test for this is to remove a plug, leave lead attached, turn engine over
with end of plug quarter inch away or so from the block and see if you are
getting any spark at all.
>
> 2. I have not installed a direct ground wire to the coil's + side, as
there
> was a grounding wire there already. Should this be augmented with a direct
> stranded ground wire to the firewall?
Don't know, didn't think a direct ground was normally done from that
terminal, but will defer to others
> 3. Pertronix said not to have any other wires connected to the coil.
> However, the stock wiring harness in my car has a second wire connected to
the
> hot (-) side of the coil. Should this be disconnected? What is it (white
wire,
> which I believe goes over to the fuse board, but not sure). If this is
the
> main feed to the auxillary circuits (e.g., lights, etc.), can I still take
the
> feed from the distributor, despite what Pertronix instructions say?
Second wire (white wire) goes to the battery cut off switch, car should run
with it connected or disconnected
> 4. If it is a timing problem, can you start the motor by loosening the
> disty and rotating it until it fires? I've never done this before.
In the days before electronic starters they somtimes started old cars,
particularly those with big multi-cylinder engines that way, don't know if
it will work on a healey.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> thanks. allen
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 22:29:11 -0400
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
I too am blessed with a supporting and understanding wife, who, in turn,
is supported by me, her understanding husband. 29 years of wedded bliss
and paying for two kids in college, and SHE encouraged me to by the BJ8
in June because it was too good to pass up. (We finished her Bugeye last
summer).
Dave & Bobbie Carpenter
>>To the gentlemen in the fray who are blessed with both Healeys AND
>>wives, pause every now and then and appreciate the woman who hopefully
>>sits in the passenger seat (I may be allowed to drive someday--but not
>>yet.) May the smell, the sound and the feel of she who pumps blood
>>rather than motor oil be almost as appealing on a warm summer outing.
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 22:36:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Whats the process for troubleshooting electronic ignition
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 20:31:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100M ignition - Pertronix
The pertronix units come from the factory usually with
their timing set a bit off from a set of points,
sometimes by a fair amount. You have to run a timing
gun (I hope you marked TDC on your crank pulley) and
see where the timing is and adjust til it fires.
If you don't have a timing gun, yes, you can loosen
the dist and rotate it a 15 degrees in either
direction and turn it over and see if it fires. This
should fix your problem.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> I got the correct mounting plate from Steve Norton
> at Cape in record time
> once we discovered the 40422B distributor on early
> BN2/M's is really
> configured the same as the BN1's distributor. The
> mounting was a snap, with
> the magnet ring and sensor aligning perfectly.
> However, the car will not fire;
> just turns over rapidly.
>
> Tomorrow I will test continuity on the ignition coil
> and make sure I did not
> damage anything, but I have already checked the
> Pertronix wiring and verified
> it is done per instructions.
>
> Several questions:
>
> 1. For those of you who have been through this,
> should the motor fire right
> up if the timing with points was correct before you
> install the unit, or is
> the timing thrown so far off that you have to start
> all over hunting for the
> mark?
>
> 2. I have not installed a direct ground wire to
> the coil's + side, as there
> was a grounding wire there already. Should this be
> augmented with a direct
> stranded ground wire to the firewall?
>
> 3. Pertronix said not to have any other wires
> connected to the coil.
> However, the stock wiring harness in my car has a
> second wire connected to the
> hot (-) side of the coil. Should this be
> disconnected? What is it (white wire,
> which I believe goes over to the fuse board, but not
> sure). If this is the
> main feed to the auxillary circuits (e.g., lights,
> etc.), can I still take the
> feed from the distributor, despite what Pertronix
> instructions say?
>
> 4. If it is a timing problem, can you start the
> motor by loosening the
> disty and rotating it until it fires? I've never
> done this before.
>
> thanks. allen
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 20:35:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Whats the process for troubleshooting electronic ignition
The only thing on the pertonix that will cause this
symptom (that I am aware of) is if the rotor unit
delaminates and some of the little magnets fall out.
Check the pertonix rotor unit. If it is in fine
shape, then chances are the problem is with either
your rotor or your distributor cap (the little carbon
lead can loose its ability to conduct... I've had this
happen before).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd"
<sextant@charter.net> wrote:
> I've had a pertronix ignition in my BT7 for over a
> year now and it's been
> working great.
>
> The other evening (one of only a few dry ones in New
> England this summer),
> the car started mis-firing and losing power - then
> refused to keep running.
> Engine cranks over in a fine fashion, and there is
> ample fuel.
>
> Once I got it towed home (all of a half mile and 4
> hours later), and could
> figit at leisure I put a timing light on the lead
> from the coil to the
> distributor and it looks like I'm getting no spark.
> Since I had a spare
> coil, I replaced it - with the same result - no
> spark. I assume the coils
> are OK.
>
> end question is - what's the next series of steps
> for checking out the
> electronic ignition.
>
> This is the first time in 30 years I haven't been
> able to get this car
> started.
>
> thanks
>
> Roger Bowker
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 23:51:08 -0700
Subject: Last Chance Parts for Sale
This is once more a shameless for sale ad. Hit DELETE if not interested or
offended.
Thanks to all the buyers so far from the list I posted July 14. The only
feedback I have heard was good so I trust all are happy with their purchase.
This is your last chance on the parts. What still remains in about a week
will be sorted through and most tossed. Reply to me offline with a reasonable
offer if you have an interest in anything. (The sold items have been
deleted)
Listers,
This is a FOR SALE ad. Delete now if you are offended by such things on this
list.
Here is the leftover new and used stuff from my friend's BJ7 resto. Most
items are bargain priced as most will be tossed if not sold. I remind you
that all indicators and the 21000 mile odometer reading seem true.
There is no handling fee except on large items and prices do not include
shipping. If you want to approximate shipping I will be sending from 23602
in
the USA. For questions please contact me off list.
ALL SALES ON A FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED BASIS.
spacer bracket for steering box - F - $10
pair radiator support brackets, painted black - G - $5
1 set aluminum door finishers, BJ7-BJ8, no corrosion holes, usual scuffs, can
polish up for a driver - VG - $25
BJ7 dash panel, aluminum, no pitting, no extra holes - slightly twisted - $40
moulding around instrument panel, some pitting in chrome - F - $20
BJ8 wood dash top for pattern - free with purchase of $10 or more
1 interior kit, red, BJ7, good for pattern, driver's kick panel exc, AND left
inner fender cover in trunk, Hardura new - $35
distributor cap, made in Germany - Exc - $10
oil pump, BJ7, from 21000 mile engine - $50
timing chain, crank sprocket, cam sprocket, from 21000 mile engine - $70
6 wrist pins, 21000 mile engine - $25
heater control valve, moves freely, works? - F to G - $10
door, BJ7, R, blasted, bottom of skin been repaired - VG - $100
door, BJ7, L, straight with no dents but bottom needs repair, blasted - F -
$70
door glass, L, some scratches - F to G - $50
door glass, R, some scratches - F to G - $50
window guides, nylon - 1 new and 1 exc used - free with the first glass
hood (bonnet), blasted, front half exc, rear bracing removed - F - $30
trim rail for convertible top, BJ7-BJ8, some small rust holes, needs work - F
to P -$10
reflector, BJ7, with trim ring - VG - $10
tail lamp assembly, twin filament BJ8, no lens, no screws, chrome F - $10
2 pigtails, headlamp, Lucas AND 3 headlamp adjuster screws - new - $20
headlamp, sealed beam, GE brand, works - G - free with purchase of pigtails
fender flash, L, minor scratches and very minor pitting, studs good - VG -
$12
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 04:25:07 EDT
Subject: Petronix and plug gaps
Simon.
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 07:36:02 -0400
Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: M.E. & E.A. Driver <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
> Cc: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/8/03 2:51:58 PM
> Subject: Re: thoughts from a Healey wife
>
> Hi Carole
>
> I agree with Doug,! I too am blessed with a lass who can only be
described as the
> world's greatest car enthusiast - I'm glad were at some considerable
distance
> from Barrett-Jackson or the double attached garage would be overflowing.
She
> supported my Formula Ford career and regional rallying passion ;and she
competed
> in local events such as autocrosses and hill climbs while trying to cope
with my
> dyslexic instructions while competing in fun rallies. Now with the move
into
> LBCs, the BJ8 and Moggie are high on her list - again thanks for
providing such
> great comments Margaret would totally agree with you!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> (the great white north)
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 10:10:52 -0400
Subject: door handle
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 10:22:26 EDT
Subject: Re: door handle
Ned Paulsen
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 10:06:50 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
I believe I have seen one original cold air box. It looked old, was severly
damaged, beyond reasonable restoration and was annodized aluminum. The color
was a dirty yellow, like the inside color of a military aircraft wing.
Your report differs slightly from mine. What I recall was 4 rivets holding
each locking plates in place. The second difference is the brazed nuts on
the locking plate. I found that the nuts were surrounded by sheet metal and
the square nuts would give movement when installing the carbs. A really good
touch if you have ever installed one of these air boxes.
How did you uncover your information?
I would like for a dialog and concensus as to what these original boxes
looked like. Of course there may have been several styles.
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (real M with repro air box)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Allen,
In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded on
the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the "H"
, not the "A".
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: cold air box badge
> I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
> factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say
definitively
> whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
square
> with the box, and that is about it.
>
> What is the concensus?
>
> Allen Miller
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 14:51:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Color
> Does the fact that my engine (61BN7) is painted red (including the head)
> indicate it was removed by some prior owner and probably rebuilt??
> Would an engine ever be painted red from the factory?
> Ron
>
Ron,
It depends on the color "RED" that the engine is painted. There was a
special tuner at BMC Competition who "signed" special competition engines by
painting them red.
I was fortunate enough to have one of these red engines on my 100M. Geoff
Healey saw the car before it went into restoration and stated that the red
engine
was correct. This car had been used as a factory supported rally car in 1954
and 1955. When I was having it restored the restoration shop would not paint
the engine red. Donald Healey sent them a letter telling them just what color
it should be and why it was "Special." Needless to say, after the letter the
engine was repainted red!
I will not describe the exact color, so that people will not try to copy it
and then say they have a special engine.
If you email me a color photo of the engine I may be able to verify if this
was a "Special."
Bill Emerson
Author, "The Healey Book"
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:18:34 +0200
Subject: Oil quality
When I buy my engine oil at Texaco, I pay 6.95 Euro for 1 litre of 15W40 oil.
Presently I can buy 15W40 engine oil at the local branch of a large department
store for 1.76 Euro - a quarter of the price. For my US friends: thats US$
7.50 a gallon compared with Texaco's 29.28/gallon
The cheap oil carries the following label:
Multigrade SAE 15W40 SG/CE-CF4
CCMC: G4/D4/PD2
ACEA: A2-96/B2-96
Except for the " SAE 15W40" the remainder is Chinese for me - is there a
lister who can tell me whether this oil is a normal quality for motorbike and
motor vehicle use?
TIA
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 20:14:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil quality
Rather than go into a long explanation on the list, see this link;
http://popularmechanics.com/automotive/auto_technology/2002/8/motor_oil/
The cheaper oil "should" meet your needs -- you make the decision
Dave Russell
BN2
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> Listers,
>
> When I buy my engine oil at Texaco, I pay 6.95 Euro for 1 litre of 15W40 oil.
> Presently I can buy 15W40 engine oil at the local branch of a large department
> store for 1.76 Euro - a quarter of the price. For my US friends: thats US$
> 7.50 a gallon compared with Texaco's 29.28/gallon
>
> The cheap oil carries the following label:
>
> Multigrade SAE 15W40 SG/CE-CF4
> CCMC: G4/D4/PD2
> ACEA: A2-96/B2-96
>
> Except for the " SAE 15W40" the remainder is Chinese for me - is there a
> lister who can tell me whether this oil is a normal quality for motorbike and
> motor vehicle use?
>
> TIA
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 23:58:07 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
I will be offering a PowerPoint drawing showing the dimensions of the lock
plate and placement of the rivets. The basic size of each lock plate is 4
inches by 2.5 inches. Rivet placement is less than obvious.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Freese, Ken"
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Hi Pat:
I believe I have seen one original cold air box. It looked old, was severly
damaged, beyond reasonable restoration and was annodized aluminum. The color
was a dirty yellow, like the inside color of a military aircraft wing.
Your report differs slightly from mine. What I recall was 4 rivets holding
each locking plates in place. The second difference is the brazed nuts on
the locking plate. I found that the nuts were surrounded by sheet metal and
the square nuts would give movement when installing the carbs. A really good
touch if you have ever installed one of these air boxes.
How did you uncover your information?
I would like for a dialog and concensus as to what these original boxes
looked like. Of course there may have been several styles.
Thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (real M with repro air box)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Allen,
In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded on
the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the "H"
, not the "A".
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: cold air box badge
> I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
> factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say
definitively
> whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
square
> with the box, and that is about it.
>
> What is the concensus?
>
> Allen Miller
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 23:15:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil quality
Donald Healey was reputed to have said "Use the
cheapest oil available and change
it often". Which reminds me...
Bill Lawrence
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> Listers,
>
> When I buy my engine oil at Texaco, I pay 6.95 Euro for 1 litre of 15W40 oil.
> Presently I can buy 15W40 engine oil at the local branch of a large department
> store for 1.76 Euro - a quarter of the price. For my US friends: thats US$
> 7.50 a gallon compared with Texaco's 29.28/gallon
>
> The cheap oil carries the following label:
>
> Multigrade SAE 15W40 SG/CE-CF4
> CCMC: G4/D4/PD2
> ACEA: A2-96/B2-96
>
> Except for the " SAE 15W40" the remainder is Chinese for me - is there a
> lister who can tell me whether this oil is a normal quality for motorbike and
> motor vehicle use?
>
> TIA
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 10:43:46 +0100
Subject: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
So, here in the UK, we have a choice of either 95 RON ('premium') or 98
RON ('super'). I'm currently using 95, and I think I'm getting pinking
(as we call it) or pinging, on load. My idle timing is correct according
to my strobe.
Am I better of using 98, or tweaking the timing for 95? I have standard
compression.
TIA as always.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 08:15:05 -0400
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>; Freese, Ken
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
> Hi Pat:
>
> I believe I have seen one original cold air box. It looked old, was
severly
> damaged, beyond reasonable restoration and was annodized aluminum. The
color
> was a dirty yellow, like the inside color of a military aircraft wing.
>
> Your report differs slightly from mine. What I recall was 4 rivets holding
> each locking plates in place. The second difference is the brazed nuts on
> the locking plate. I found that the nuts were surrounded by sheet metal
and
> the square nuts would give movement when installing the carbs. A really
good
> touch if you have ever installed one of these air boxes.
>
> How did you uncover your information?
>
> I would like for a dialog and concensus as to what these original boxes
> looked like. Of course there may have been several styles.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M (real M with repro air box)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:17 AM
> Subject: Re: cold air box badge
>
>
> Allen,
>
> In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
> is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
> was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
> The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded
on
> the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
> held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
> compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the
"H"
> , not the "A".
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:45 AM
> Subject: cold air box badge
>
>
> > I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
> > factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say
> definitively
> > whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
> square
> > with the box, and that is about it.
> >
> > What is the concensus?
> >
> > Allen Miller
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
airbox_1.jpg]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
airbox_2.jpg]
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 08:29:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
Go with the 98 if you can pay the extra. 95 will require retarding the
ignition to stop the pinging and you lose power both ways. I have been
running my TR in the US on unleaded for 20 years with a regular head and had
no valve seat problems at moderate mileages and rpm's. You can also find an
octane boosting additive based on manganese compounds like I use here and
that will help. Some have lead substitute components as well.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 5:43 AM
Subject: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
> I've recently decided that I'm wasting time and money searching out
> leaded petrol for my standard BJ8. With my limited mileage, it's going
> to be many years before I feel the effect of unleaded, by which time
> I'll be in for an engine rebuild anyway.
>
> So, here in the UK, we have a choice of either 95 RON ('premium') or 98
> RON ('super'). I'm currently using 95, and I think I'm getting pinking
> (as we call it) or pinging, on load. My idle timing is correct according
> to my strobe.
>
> Am I better of using 98, or tweaking the timing for 95? I have standard
> compression.
>
> TIA as always.
> --
> Alan F Cross
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 08:27:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
When our group was travelling through Europe several years ago, some used
the 95, some the 98. I used 98 all the time. Seems to me, there was one
negative comment (pinging) on the 95. Wish I knew the distribution of use,
but don't.
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 05:38:56 -0700
Subject: Re: door handle
If yours is like mine you have a hole going in both directions on the
handle. Using two brads/small punches (I use tiny phillips screw
drivers) whatever, insert them into the two unused holes on the handle
while depressing the ascutheon and spring. Do not slip these all the
way through or you will block the hole for the pin. Once you have these
in place you should be able to easily
insert the pin into the real hole. The trick is to use the two "other"
holes to hold the assembly compressed thus exposing the hole for the
pin. Careful not to mess up your new heritage leather :-)
Hope this makes sense.
Tracy
Dennis Broughel wrote:
> Dear listers:
> I am at a standstill with my interior door panels. I've checked the
> archives and found nothing on interior door handles. I must be having
> a brain fart because I can't figure how to put on the ascutcheon then
> the handle and then put that little pin in I know there mu st be a
> trick but I haven't got a clue...I have an early Bn-4.
> Thanks in advance as always
> Dennis Broughel.....Longbridge .....Bn-4 ..........45281
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 09:23:33 EDT
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
I've been absolutely fascinated by this thread because I happen to have a
fondness for minutiae, but, isn't the end result going to be even MORE, and
better done :-(, FAKE cold air boxes and badges?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 09:36:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Petronix and plug gaps
In very simple terms:
Think of the Pertronics as a substitute for the original switching device -
the points/condenser set-up. There are some obscure (for a road vehicle)
differences in the technical nature of the spark, but for our intents and
purposes, it's just another switch.
The spark plug gap is for the most part governed by the output voltage of
the ignition coil - the ability of the coil to to 'fire' the spark over a
greater or lesser gap. If you are running a standard coil, I would maintain
the recommended spark plug gap. If you switch to a higher output coil, say
a sports coil, you can open the gaps a bit, say to .030 - .035. I have been
running .030 plug gaps on both cars with older Lucas sports coils. Both
cars seem happy that way on the unleaded fuel that we have to run today. I
ran the tri-carb with the those plug gaps on points before I installed the
Pertronics - it behaved essentially the same both before and after.
People have found that with the stock Lucas distributors, there is a limit
that you can go in terms of coil output - if you try and use a really 'hot'
coil, trouble usually follows - the distributors are simply too small to
handle all that voltage. I know a couple of Healey owners who had to go
back to original coils to keep the car running right, and a couple who gave
up and installed aftermarket (larger) distributors in order to run really
high output coils.
On another subject, how did the trans/overdrive situation resolve, apart
from separating you from a lot of your cash!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 1:25 AM
Subject: Petronix and plug gaps
Hi,
I have a BT7, MlI, on which I've been happily running a Petronix for a
couple
of years.
Although all this current discussion raises a few doubts, I'm happy to stick
with it. Prefer it actually.
But, one line I picked up on................
(I have, so far as I'm aware, a standard coil and no intention to change it
until/unless it fails. There are no markings apparent on my siolver coloured
coil.)
Someone suggested that one can open up the gaps a little whilst running a
Petronix, even with a standard coil.
Any thoughts........? I did think that remark would stir up some replies,
but
not one. So, over to the gurus!
Simon.
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:30:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil quality
Since you are in the Netherlands you might want to check out the Penrite
distributor Impart B.V. Badhuisstraat 11-13, 6827 AD, Arnhem. Tel 026
4429937.
Older motors whether freshly rebuilt or not much prefer thicker oils to the
newer thinner ones. Newer motors, say 1980 forward, are built with much
tighter tolerances than the older ones, say late 1970s back.
With the thicker oil they tend to run with better oil pressure, less noise
and cooler.
Just my .02 cents worth
Check it out and have a great day.
God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 12:18 AM 8/10/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>Listers,
>
>When I buy my engine oil at Texaco, I pay 6.95 Euro for 1 litre of 15W40 oil.
>Presently I can buy 15W40 engine oil at the local branch of a large
department
>store for 1.76 Euro - a quarter of the price. For my US friends: thats US$
>7.50 a gallon compared with Texaco's 29.28/gallon
>
>The cheap oil carries the following label:
>
>Multigrade SAE 15W40 SG/CE-CF4
>CCMC: G4/D4/PD2
>ACEA: A2-96/B2-96
>
>Except for the " SAE 15W40" the remainder is Chinese for me - is there a
>lister who can tell me whether this oil is a normal quality for motorbike and
>motor vehicle use?
>
>TIA
>
>Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
>1964 BJ8 29432
>1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:30:28 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Tell us how you got a picture of the inside!
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
To: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; "austin healey list"
<healeys@autox.team.net>; <bn1@pacbell.net>
Cc: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Freese, Ken"
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Attached two photos of the remains of my original airbox, 56 100M Heritage
certified factory built. 8 rivets on each plate and the cracks do tend to
be horizontal hole to hole. There certainly could have been some
differences over time from the creation for BN1 through BN2 with different
suppliers. Perhaps the 4 rivet version is one of the missing 16 airboxes
fitted by DH at Warwick?
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>; Freese, Ken
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
> Hi Pat:
>
> I believe I have seen one original cold air box. It looked old, was
severly
> damaged, beyond reasonable restoration and was annodized aluminum. The
color
> was a dirty yellow, like the inside color of a military aircraft wing.
>
> Your report differs slightly from mine. What I recall was 4 rivets holding
> each locking plates in place. The second difference is the brazed nuts on
> the locking plate. I found that the nuts were surrounded by sheet metal
and
> the square nuts would give movement when installing the carbs. A really
good
> touch if you have ever installed one of these air boxes.
>
> How did you uncover your information?
>
> I would like for a dialog and concensus as to what these original boxes
> looked like. Of course there may have been several styles.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M (real M with repro air box)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:17 AM
> Subject: Re: cold air box badge
>
>
> Allen,
>
> In the booklet for the Le Mans kit and instructions, the installed air box
> is shown without the plaque, nor is it mentioned in the parts list, so it
> was probably only added in the much discussed 640 factory installations.
> The original boxes are thinner material, about 1/16in and crudely welded
on
> the edges. The carb attachment nuts are brazed on two steel plates, each
> held with 8 rivets. The original plaques have different lettering spacing
> compared to the reproductions. The "S" of Le Mans should be under the
"H"
> , not the "A".
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:45 AM
> Subject: cold air box badge
>
>
> > I have encountered conflicting views whether the cold air box fitted on
> > factory M's had the "kit" badge. Mine does not, but I can't say
> definitively
> > whether the box is original; it is old, the carb overflow tubes line up
> square
> > with the box, and that is about it.
> >
> > What is the concensus?
> >
> > Allen Miller
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Slide2.JPG]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Slide1.JPG]
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:48:09 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
I have owned this M since 1984 and have been looking for a good condition
original air box ever since. The current reporduction comes from a
combination of efforts, the box from the Austin-Healey Store in Van Nuys, CA
and the original badge from Jim Mann in Oxnard, CA.
The remaining original air boxes are really trashed and in some cases metal
working gurus find it easier to fit a reproduction air box around the nut
plates than it is to put an original back into operational condition.
With the cost of a reproduction air box being around $100 and the labor to
repair an original, even if found and possible would greatly exceed that
number. Maybe restoring an original would cost $1000. Certainly buying it
would cost a few $100 to start with. As silly as it sounds, some of us would
even do that if we could pry one of these loose with money from somebody's
hands.
Meanwhile drilling and fitting a few machined aluminum screws with rivet
heads starts to sound easy, quick and fiscally responsible.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 Real Factory M with fake air box.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <bspidell@pacbell.net>; <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
Hi all,
I've been absolutely fascinated by this thread because I happen to have a
fondness for minutiae, but, isn't the end result going to be even MORE, and
better done :-(, FAKE cold air boxes and badges?
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 16:46:34 -0400
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
The long weld on the bottom edge was cracked open, so I have to confess I
removed the bottom of the box with the intention of cleaning it up and
restoring it but never did. Maybe I should reconsider now. It was the
second least clever thing I did during the 100M restoration. The first was
taking the bend out of the front crossbrace where the 100M cam had been
fitted. Just goes to show that you need to do your research and fully
document before touching anything.
I found the original screws that held the carbs to the box and they are
5/16in diam, BSF I think, not Whitworth. The head fits a 1/2in AF hexagon
socket and the shank is 7/8in long with a pitch slightly greater than UNF.
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
To: Pat Davis <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; austin healey list
<healeys@autox.team.net>; <bn1@pacbell.net>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>; Freese, Ken
<Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: cold air box badge
> Did not know that attachments would be posted. So I converted the
PowerPoint
> notes to .jpg.
>
> Tell us how you got a picture of the inside!
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jim LeBlanc
> 1956 100-M
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>
> To: "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; "austin healey list"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>; <bn1@pacbell.net>
> Cc: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>; "Freese, Ken"
> <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 7:15 AM
> Subject: Re: cold air box badge
>
>
> Attached two photos of the remains of my original airbox, 56 100M Heritage
> certified factory built. 8 rivets on each plate and the cracks do tend to
> be horizontal hole to hole. There certainly could have been some
> differences over time from the creation for BN1 through BN2 with different
> suppliers. Perhaps the 4 rivet version is one of the missing 16 airboxes
> fitted by DH at Warwick?
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim LeBlanc <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
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From "mgnut" <mgnut at charter.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 17:44:28 -0400
Subject: 9th Annual British Car Festival
We have scheduled one main event for Saturday, September 6th. A Funkhana will
be held at the Ardie Dillen Industrial Park in Tipton starting at 12:30 pm.
You must pre-register for the event. You also won't want to miss the Saturday
night pig roast dinner and desserts at our President's home.
On Sunday, September 7th it's off to Delgrosso's Amusement Park. Registration
will begin at 10 am. Sunday is simply a day of showing your car and enjoying
the friendship of other British Car enthusiasts. Good food, rides, mini-golf,
go-karts and prizes..and NO Judging!! All British Cars are welcome, any
condition. Larry Learn of Learn's Upholsterly will conduct seminars. New this
year is a "Ladies Only" mini golf tournament.
Pre-registration prices (good till August 30th) are as follows:
Entire Weekend @ $22.50 per person includes:
Friday 9/5: Hospitality suite at the Super 8 Motel (BYOB)
Saturday 9/6: Funkhana, Pig Roast & Desserts Bonfire party.
Sunday 9/7: Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack,
All Day Ride pass, Miniature Golf pass, Ladies Only Mini Golf Tournament, and
prizes.
Sunday only @ $15.00 per person includes:
Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack, All Day Ride
pass, Miniature Golf pass, and prizes.
Sunday - car show only @ $5.00 per car.
Please email us at mgnut@charter.net and we will send you our brochure or
answer any questions that you may have.
Thanks
Jim & Lori Pastore
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From "MARILYN COLES" <mjco at ptd.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:02:00 -0400
Subject: cold air box
Alex. Coles
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 19:37:28 EDT
Subject: Pertronix Installations.
So then, at a total loss, we reverted to standard tried-and-true, "when it
won't start" diagnostic procedures. Spark at all the relevant places. So, took
the carb cleaner and blew a healthy blast into the carb throats to see if lack
of fuel was the problem.
Shazam! Problem all along had been gummy residue that had built up over the
winter in the carb pistons. As soon as we got a mighty rush of intake vacuum to
pull them open, everything was fine-- should have cleaned the carbs when they
were sitting on the bench for four months while the engine was being worked
on. Doh!
So, for once, the ignition problem was in the carburetors. But moral of the
story, I think, is: if the engine won't start, go back to diagnostics 101 and
check each element of the chain, rather than assuming the problem is in one
specific element.
Cheers
gary
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 17:26:32 -0600
Subject: Backfire through carbs
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:06:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Is there a concern about private party selling?
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 23:51:08 -0700
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
Subject: Last Chance Parts for Sale
Evening Listers,
This is once more a shameless for sale ad. Hit DELETE
if not interested or offended.
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:09:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Backfire through carbs
This is usually caused one of a couple things:
1) lack of dashpot oil in the dashpot piston tops (20
wt oil) - you need this oil which slows the uptake of
the dashpot piston which enrichen the mixture when you
step on the accelerator.
- or -
2) fuel mixture too lean.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> Today a friend and I re-installed his engine in his
> 60 3000. Engine ran fine
> before but HD6's were cleaned and rebuilt. Timing
> seems to be on at 6
> degrees. Starts but back fires through carbs. Any
> suggestions.
> Sid
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 21:12:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Backfire through carbs
You did put oil in the dashpots right?
Keith Pennell
> Today a friend and I re-installed his engine in his 60 3000. Engine ran
fine
> before but HD6's were cleaned and rebuilt. Timing seems to be on at 6
> degrees. Starts but back fires through carbs. Any suggestions.
> Sid
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:21:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: pinion seal, US p/n?
__________________________________
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 21:58:09 -0400
Subject: Backfire through carbs
> Today a friend and I re-installed his engine in his 60 3000. Engine ran
fine
> before but HD6's were cleaned and rebuilt. Timing seems to be on at 6
> degrees. Starts but back fires through carbs. Any suggestions.
> Sid
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From IanN191650 at aol.com
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 22:37:34 EDT
Subject: Attempted Theft / Ignition Question
I just discovered that someone tried to steal my BN-4. Luckily the individual
was not a master thief, as he didn't get any further than removing the
ignition switch wires. I guess my habit of turning off the battery master
switch
after every drive paid off.
Now for my novice mechanic question. Which wire goes where on the ignition
switch? There are two white wires and one tan/blue striped wire that need to
be
connected to the three posts on the switch.
Thanks,
Ian Nelson
'58 BN-4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 20:47:42 -0600
Subject: General speedo information - possible fix
My speedometer needle has been wildly oscillating plus or minus around
15 mph.
I pulled, cleaned, & greased the inner cable - no improvement.
Got a new complete cable to try as the next step. Got lazy & decided to
try replacing just the inner cable. Cleaned, greased & installed it.
Presto -- dead steady needle again & didn't have to take half the car
apart to replace the outer cable.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 01:06:10 -0400
Subject: 100 timing mark
At the risk of seemig the Village idiot, is this severe over-advancing? or
severe retardation?
Is it safe to loosen and manually rotate the distrutor until you get the motor
to fire? Someone has advised this can seize up the starter if you are not
careful.
Is the best way to mark TDC by watching the valves swap on #1, or by observing
the piston through the spark hole, or is there already some timing mark I have
overlooked?
We have encountered a number of flaws in the distributor, and in correcting
them may have substantially increased the advance. Firstly, the vacuum advance
line was cut out, and the vacuum unit was frozen. We changed the line and feed
the diaphram. Then we found that the mounting plate for the points and
condensor would not slide freely in relation to the plate below because of
damage to the three-fingered spring that holds the two together. We replaced
that with a good one Steve Norton supplied from spares. Thirdly, the primary
and secondary springs holding the bobweights of the centrifugal advance were a
little slack, which kept the weights from fully retracting when you twist the
rotor a bit. Whether correct or not, we gently tightened the secondary spring
a tiny bit at its ending around the post, and this seemed to make the weights
retract a little better when we turned the engine.
Any suggestions on how to getting the timing close enough to fire would be
great, as well as how to establish a correct TDC marking.
Thanks for all of you who've helped so far.
Allen Miller
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 23:24:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100 timing mark
the chances of seizing your starter motor are pretty
rare as long as you don't hold down the starter button
while it turns over (say for more than 2-3 seconds).
If it back fires through the exhaust... then it is
probably retarded. If it coughs or pops through the
intake, then it is probably advanced. Try spinning
the distributor a bit forward or back and restarting -
it won't hurt the starter to do this as long as you
don't hold the button down as I said above.
So try this -> turn distributor a bit, start motor ->
improve? no -> turn dist. other way and start again.
If you want to find TDC, probably the easiest way to
do it is to get a long, small wooden dowel and and
drop it in the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the motor
until it's at the top. You may have to jimmy the
crank back and forth a bit until you are sure you are
at TDC. Remember the motor is 4 stroke, so make sure
you are at the right part of the cycle (look at valve
position). Once you figure out TDC - Mark the crank
pulley and valve cover with some white paint.
Fooling with the springs on your distributor isn't a
good idea, as you probably have changed the advance
curve. If they are every sticky, a little brake
cleaner then a little light lubricant like 3-1 should
fix it. If the wieghts are still not fully retracting
after this, you whould probably replace the springs.
Either way, you can run with your current springs...
as long as you figure out your TDC & advance... good
luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> I have gotten past part of the trauma of converting
> over to Pertronix for the
> Bn2/M. We now have spark, but the engine turns over
> rapidly, then catches, and
> backfires, with the radiator fan actually reversing
> an inch before the engine
> stops. I assume (and hope) that all we are dealing
> with is a difference in
> timing.
>
> At the risk of seemig the Village idiot, is this
> severe over-advancing? or
> severe retardation?
>
> Is it safe to loosen and manually rotate the
> distrutor until you get the motor
> to fire? Someone has advised this can seize up the
> starter if you are not
> careful.
>
> Is the best way to mark TDC by watching the valves
> swap on #1, or by observing
> the piston through the spark hole, or is there
> already some timing mark I have
> overlooked?
>
> We have encountered a number of flaws in the
> distributor, and in correcting
> them may have substantially increased the advance.
> Firstly, the vacuum advance
> line was cut out, and the vacuum unit was frozen. We
> changed the line and feed
> the diaphram. Then we found that the mounting plate
> for the points and
> condensor would not slide freely in relation to the
> plate below because of
> damage to the three-fingered spring that holds the
> two together. We replaced
> that with a good one Steve Norton supplied from
> spares. Thirdly, the primary
> and secondary springs holding the bobweights of the
> centrifugal advance were a
> little slack, which kept the weights from fully
> retracting when you twist the
> rotor a bit. Whether correct or not, we gently
> tightened the secondary spring
> a tiny bit at its ending around the post, and this
> seemed to make the weights
> retract a little better when we turned the engine.
>
> Any suggestions on how to getting the timing close
> enough to fire would be
> great, as well as how to establish a correct TDC
> marking.
>
> Thanks for all of you who've helped so far.
>
> Allen Miller
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 07:37:18 -0400
Subject: RE: 100 timing mark
On your engine the TDC marks are on the front pulley and the timing
cover.
On the front pulley there is a small notch in the inner (rearward)
flange.
And the front cover has a raised arrow pressed into its surface. When
aligned these marks indicate TDC.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
Sent: 11-Aug-03 1:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100 timing mark
I have gotten past part of the trauma of converting over to Pertronix
for the
Bn2/M. We now have spark, but the engine turns over rapidly, then
catches, and
backfires, with the radiator fan actually reversing an inch before the
engine
stops. I assume (and hope) that all we are dealing with is a difference
in
timing.
At the risk of seemig the Village idiot, is this severe over-advancing?
or
severe retardation?
Is it safe to loosen and manually rotate the distrutor until you get the
motor
to fire? Someone has advised this can seize up the starter if you are
not
careful.
Is the best way to mark TDC by watching the valves swap on #1, or by
observing
the piston through the spark hole, or is there already some timing mark
I have
overlooked?
We have encountered a number of flaws in the distributor, and in
correcting
them may have substantially increased the advance. Firstly, the vacuum
advance
line was cut out, and the vacuum unit was frozen. We changed the line
and feed
the diaphram. Then we found that the mounting plate for the points and
condensor would not slide freely in relation to the plate below because
of
damage to the three-fingered spring that holds the two together. We
replaced
that with a good one Steve Norton supplied from spares. Thirdly, the
primary
and secondary springs holding the bobweights of the centrifugal advance
were a
little slack, which kept the weights from fully retracting when you
twist the
rotor a bit. Whether correct or not, we gently tightened the secondary
spring
a tiny bit at its ending around the post, and this seemed to make the
weights
retract a little better when we turned the engine.
Any suggestions on how to getting the timing close enough to fire would
be
great, as well as how to establish a correct TDC marking.
Thanks for all of you who've helped so far.
Allen Miller
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 13:03:46 +0100
Subject: Re: 100 timing mark
I expect that you know this but early 100s had no timing marks and later
ones had, as you say, the very crude pointer pressed into the timing
chain cover. This could not be considered very accurate and should only
be used as a rough guide.
All the best
>
>On your engine the TDC marks are on the front pulley and the timing
>cover.
>On the front pulley there is a small notch in the inner (rearward)
>flange.
>And the front cover has a raised arrow pressed into its surface. When
>aligned these marks indicate TDC.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
>Sent: 11-Aug-03 1:06 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: 100 timing mark
>
>I have gotten past part of the trauma of converting over to Pertronix
>for the
>Bn2/M. We now have spark, but the engine turns over rapidly, then
>catches, and
>backfires, with the radiator fan actually reversing an inch before the
>engine
>stops. I assume (and hope) that all we are dealing with is a difference
>in
>timing.
>
>At the risk of seemig the Village idiot, is this severe over-advancing?
>or
>severe retardation?
>
>Is it safe to loosen and manually rotate the distrutor until you get the
>motor
>to fire? Someone has advised this can seize up the starter if you are
>not
>careful.
>
>Is the best way to mark TDC by watching the valves swap on #1, or by
>observing
>the piston through the spark hole, or is there already some timing mark
>I have
>overlooked?
>
>We have encountered a number of flaws in the distributor, and in
>correcting
>them may have substantially increased the advance. Firstly, the vacuum
>advance
>line was cut out, and the vacuum unit was frozen. We changed the line
>and feed
>the diaphram. Then we found that the mounting plate for the points and
>condensor would not slide freely in relation to the plate below because
>of
>damage to the three-fingered spring that holds the two together. We
>replaced
>that with a good one Steve Norton supplied from spares. Thirdly, the
>primary
>and secondary springs holding the bobweights of the centrifugal advance
>were a
>little slack, which kept the weights from fully retracting when you
>twist the
>rotor a bit. Whether correct or not, we gently tightened the secondary
>spring
>a tiny bit at its ending around the post, and this seemed to make the
>weights
>retract a little better when we turned the engine.
>
>Any suggestions on how to getting the timing close enough to fire would
>be
>great, as well as how to establish a correct TDC marking.
>
>Thanks for all of you who've helped so far.
>
>Allen Miller
>
--
John Harper
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 05:54:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Derrington steering wheel restoartion
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 09:03:41 -0400
Subject: Re: healey art
>From: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: Doug Ingram <dougi@shaw.ca>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: healey art
>Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 17:01:26 -0700
>
>Scott,
>
>It is indeed the 8/98 edition.
>
>The credit on the inside of the magazine states "A period illustration
>depicts an Austin-Healey 100-6 overtaking an Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider.
>Circa 1958."
>
>No artist credit shown, but perhaps Reid Trummel can find out more. Reid?
>
>Doug Ingram
>Victoria BC Canada
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <RAWDAWGS@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 2:09 PM
>Subject: healey art
>
>
> > A friend of mine showed me a copy of a painting that he believes graced
>the
> > cover of the 8/98 healey magazine. It was a painting of a white1959 Alfa
>Romeo
> > veloce and a red Longbridge Healey in a race setting. Exactly who was
> > overtaking who I'm sure depends on the viewer. Anyway I would be
>interested in knowing
> > more about the picture and if prints are available or (gasp!) the
>original
> > blah, blah. Anybody know of it?
> >
> > Scott McPherson
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 09:06:16 -0400
Subject: Re: healey art
Bill
'55 100
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:44:11 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box
For years I have been asking what the original color of the air box was. So
far the correct answers seem to be:
gray hammertone
- and -
yellow chromate
I have emailed the drawings of the lock plate. If anybody else wants them,
or if I accidentally omitted anybody, please send me an email.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "MARILYN COLES" <mjco@ptd.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 5:02 PM
Subject: cold air box
Have N.O.S. cold air box bought at Royston Motors, Phila, Pa. in 1962 from
there parts Dept.This box has never been mounted and has original paint. It
is
painted with a silver-gray hammertone paint, no holes drilled for badge,
sixteen rivets and otherwise as previously described by Peter and Jim. Sorry
but not for sale at this time.
Alex. Coles
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 09:14:50 -0500
Subject: Re: pinion seal, US p/n?
Joe:
Try: M 1150275 3/8
My records indicate that this is the seal that I used.
Best regards,.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 07:39:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re:
1) did you remember to put oil in your carberator dash
pots (through the brass hexagonal lid on top of your
carburettors)
2) or your car needs a tune up (carbs are running
lean... may be caused by bad carb tuning or
timing/dwell off).
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Park <bpark@ebtech.net> wrote:
> I have developed an intermittent hesitation in my
> 100 on acceleration. My wife
> calls it a "hiccup".
> Any thoughts on where to start looking for a
> gremlin?
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> '55 100
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 10:41:06 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M Story - Follow-Up
Just as a follow-up to the emails on this subject of last week, I've
exchanged a few emails with Wayne Carini, owner of F40 Motorsports. My
basic questions to him were: (a) What, exactly, does it say on the BMIHT
Certificate about this car?, and (b) Do you have any other reason to believe
that this car is usual or special in any way?
The answers are: (a) "Destination(dealer): Donald Healey for Modifications
before export" and (b) no.
Opinions may differ, but my conclusion is that this car -- a Left Hand
Drive example -- is most likely one of a great number that the Donald Healey
Motor Company (DHMC) sold to US servicemen then serving in the UK, and that
the modifications probably consisted of installing the Le Mans Engine
Modification Kit, although any of a number of other or additional
modifications are certainly possible. (The DHMC was willing to make just
about whatever mods a customer wanted to pay for.)
By the way, Wayne specifically stated, "I DONT KNOW WHERE YOU HEARD THAT I
SAID I HADE ONE OF THE "MISSING 16 CARS" I NEVER MADE THAT STATEMENT.
ACCORDING TO THE ARTICLE THERE WERE 14 PRE PRODUCTION CARS. I THINK MY CAR
MIGHT BE ONE OF THEM."
The article he refers to was apparently authored by Bill Meade, the
creator/owner/operator of what Bill calls the "Worldwide 100M Le Mans
Registry" and it apparently appeared in "Healey Marque," the publication of
the AHCA. I have not seen the article, but in any case there apparently is
no "missing 16" (or any other number) of Healeys, and I think that inferring
any specific number of DHMC-modified cars -- or even a general number --
from a few reports made by people who volunteered to register their cars,
something like 35-45 years after production, is at best a very, very wild
guess.
My bottom line on all of this: Wayne most likely has a car for sale that is
nothing more than one of the many cars sold by the DHMC to a US serviceman
and one of the many that had the Le Mans Engine Modification Kit installed,
and in the absence of any other documentation or physical evidence there is
no reason to believe that it is anything else. False alarm.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Skip Besaw <besaw55@yahoo.com>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: 100M Story
>Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Back in May I looked at a 1967 red BJ8 at F40 Motors in Portland. They also
>had a 100M for $ 38,500. Not knowing anywhere near as much as I know now I
>bought the BJ8. In June, when it was delivered I was more educated and
>thought of going back and returning it for the 100M but decided to leave
>well enough alone.
>
>I called today to see if they still had the 100M and they do but he told me
>the following story. They have the British Heritage Certificate showing the
>car was delivered to Donald Healey for modification after it was built.
>Seems they found out three weeks ago it is supposedly one on the 16 missing
>Healey's that Donald preformed the M mod to. The car is now for sale for $
>55,000. Live and learn. The web site is www.f40.com if you're interested in
>taking a look. Still listed at $ 38,500 but he won't take less that $
>55,000
>
>
>Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 09:54:39 -0500
Subject: Cold Air Boxes
Jim Frakes
Central Indiana
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:24:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
It seems bizarre that we'd have two different rating standards either
side of the pond, but both of which are in the 95-98 bracket. 'RON', I
guess, stands for '(something or other) Octane Number'. Is 'M+R' the
same thing, but on a different scale, or same scale? We do both have
things called pints, that are just enough different to confuse, so
anything's possible!!
I just need to know we are talking the same language both sides of the
pond before I am unintentionally misled.
For those who missed my original post, here's the nub of it:
"So, here in the UK, we have a choice of either 95 RON ('premium') or 98
RON ('super'). I'm currently using 95, and I think I'm getting pinking
(as we call it) or pinging, on load. My idle timing is correct according
to my strobe.
Am I better of using 98, or tweaking the timing for 95? I have standard
compression."
TIA all.
------- Forwarded message follows -------
In message <3d.337d3e72.2c6907f4@aol.com>, N0040@aol.com writes
>Hi Alan,
>
>Your rating must be different than in the U.S.
>
>95 would be a high octane. 98 is for very high compression racing engines, or
>vehicles with really advanced timing.
>
>With standard compression (probably up to 10.5:1) and timing, U.S. 95 octane
>(M+R) should always suffice. Are you sure your timing isn't advanced ?
>
>If you retard it a little each outing, until you notice the pinging stops,
>you can then determine if you have a noticeable power lost.
>
>Did you get it from a blended pump (like Sunoco here in the U.S.) which
>blends low and high octane at the pump to meet selected octane setting?
>Where you
>can get a batch of low octane without the high blended in.
>
>I'll bet there is a big difference in price too, between the 95 and 98.
>If you're a "Sunday" Healey driver and don't go through much (petrol),
>perhaps the difference of a few bucks is not critical. I would then go
>to the 98 and
>solve the pinging, especially if the timing and power seems right.
>
>Others agree that the use of 'leaded" fuels (without the hardened seats and
>valves) is not that critical, since we are generally not running high speeds
>and high RPMs as in racing situations.
>
>Best Regards,
>Bob - BJ8
>Milford, MI
>
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:33:51 -0700
Subject: RE: Derrington steering wheel restoartion
Yes, I did mine and learned a few things about it. Plan on about 2 or three
weeks off the car. I've done a lot of marine varnish work but the wheel was
the hardest due to the many contours.
First, if you are staining anyway, don't use a colored filler.
After you strip and sand the original it will probably be nearly bone white
anyway. Pick a filler you can stain along with the original.
You need a workbench you can walk around and a bracket to hold the wheel. I
bought a small flag pole bracket and mounted a 6x6in board to it, then the
wheel to the board. That allowed me to clamp the bracket on the workbench
and move it in many different directions while applying the varnish to
prevent drips.
Preparation is everything. Then apply the stain you want (I matched the
dash).
It took two coats of stain and 7 coats of varnish.
0000 sanding between dry coats is what I used. Meguires also makes a paste
that is similar to 0000 or 00000 I think.
Marine stores know all about the proper equipment and varnish to use. I used
a basic aluminum auto polish on the metal.
It's all hand work, no power tools.
I get compliments all of the time for the refinished original wheel. I'm
glad I didn't buy a new one.
Ron
67 BJ8
My steering wheel has one small
crack about 3/8" which I am going to fill with Elmer's
wood filler walnut color. Then I was going to lightly
sand the wood rim before applying a polyurethane
finish. My questions are:
1- Should I use a stain?
2- What type of polyurethane should I use?
3- How many coats?
4- Is 0000 steel wool OK for polishing the finish
between coats?
5- How do I polish the spokes to bring it back to its
original finish?
Thanks
Jorge
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From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 11:28:42 -0500
Subject: Need carb part for BJ8
I am desperate so if anyone can help let me know as soon as possible
-----------------------------------------------------------
Thunderbird Ranch 7158 Highway B Pittsville, WI 54466
Ph 715-884-6546 (9-5 central ) fax 715-884-6720 jdrax@tds.net
http://www.tbirdranch.com (Subscribe to my free newsletter on my website)
And now a second website........ http://www.tbirdhelp.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 12:17:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
There are two fuel octane rating/measuring systems in use. They are done
under different test conditions, The Motor Octane Number (MON), & the
Research Octane Number (RON). The pump octane number as used in the USA
is the average of the two ratings. Eg. (R+M) divided by 2. European
countries use the RON.
The octane "translation";
USA - 87 Europe - 91 RON - 91 MON - 82.5 R+M / 2 - 86.75
USA - 89 Europe - 95 RON - 95 MON - 85 R+M / 2 - 90
USA - 93 Europe - 98 RON - 98 MON - 88 R+M / 2 - 93
You can take your choice, retard timing & use the lower octane or
advance the timing & use the higher octane rating. You will probably get
a little better performance with the higher octane with timing to match
but at higher fuel cost.
Dave Russell
BN2
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Well, having received the email below, on this subject (thanks, Bob),
> can anyone shed any light on the rating system differences Bob alludes to?
>
> It seems bizarre that we'd have two different rating standards either
> side of the pond, but both of which are in the 95-98 bracket. 'RON', I
> guess, stands for '(something or other) Octane Number'. Is 'M+R' the
> same thing, but on a different scale, or same scale? We do both have
> things called pints, that are just enough different to confuse, so
> anything's possible!!
>
> I just need to know we are talking the same language both sides of the
> pond before I am unintentionally misled.
>
> For those who missed my original post, here's the nub of it:
>
> "So, here in the UK, we have a choice of either 95 RON ('premium') or 98
> RON ('super'). I'm currently using 95, and I think I'm getting pinking
> (as we call it) or pinging, on load. My idle timing is correct according
> to my strobe.
> Am I better of using 98, or tweaking the timing for 95? I have standard
> compression."
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 13:31:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Cold Air Boxes
The cold air boxes are typical reproduction parts. They are just too well
made to look original. They are also missing the riveted lock plates. In my
opinion if I were looking to buy a new reproduction air box, his would be at
the top of the list. And if he were to add dummy rivets they would be even
better!
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frakes, Jim" <JimF@frakes-eng.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <askfrank@wickerizedhealey.com>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:54 AM
Subject: Cold Air Boxes
Has anybody looked at the cold air boxes (and other products) being
manufactured by Frank Wicker in Kendallville IN. Look at the web site
www.wickerizedhealey.com
Jim Frakes
Central Indiana
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 13:48:35 -0500
Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:14:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Cold Air Boxes
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Frakes, Jim <JimF@frakes-eng.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <askfrank@wickerizedhealey.com>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 10:54 AM
Subject: Cold Air Boxes
> Has anybody looked at the cold air boxes (and other products) being
manufactured by Frank Wicker in Kendallville IN. Look at the web site
www.wickerizedhealey.com
>
> Jim Frakes
> Central Indiana
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 14:05:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Cold Air Boxes
Dave Russell
BN2
Pat Davis wrote:
> It says they are made of 1/8in material, which is twice the original
> thickness, and the picture does not show any rivets for the nut attachment
> plate.
>
> Peter Davis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frakes, Jim <JimF@frakes-eng.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <askfrank@wickerizedhealey.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 10:54 AM
> Subject: Cold Air Boxes
>
>
>
>>Has anybody looked at the cold air boxes (and other products) being
>
> manufactured by Frank Wicker in Kendallville IN. Look at the web site
> www.wickerizedhealey.com
>
>>Jim Frakes
>>Central Indiana
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:35:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix - Ignitor
> Could you direct me to the individual in the club, who has the most
> experience, with installation of the Ignitor in a positive ground BJ8, Many
>thanks
> L. B. Branner.
This was forwarded to me by--I suspect--a member of our club who got my name
out of the AHCA handbook. Not having either a BJ8 or a + ground car, I am
passing along his message to the list and perhaps someone can help L.B. out?
Best--Michael
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:27:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
Many thanks to everyone for their sound advice on this one, but
particularly Dave who gave the above concise translation! Super unleaded
it is, with possibly an additive. I'm clearly doing myself no good at
all with '95' on my present timing, and I don't want to degrade my
pleasure by retarding!
--
Alan F Cross
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From russward at lineone.net
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:46:58 +0100
Subject: FW: Forum/ 100S head
Does anyone have contact details for a 100S head, I may have found a home
for it.
Mell
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:10:33 -0700
Subject: Re. 100 timing mark
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:13:58 -0700
Subject: 100-m spark plugs
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 17:31:08 -0500
Subject: Re:
Unless something really bizarre problem will be in carbs or ignition.
I would pull the plugs and see if they all look OK, if one is especially
wet/black/oily it may be fouling
Inspect the Ignition system signs of arcing in the cap? (lots of dirty black
residue on the metal parts) plug wires tight? how old are plug wires?
If carbs it is probably low oil in dashpots or lean mixture, richen it a
couple flats (assuming no obvious faults with ignition) remember where you
started, if it doesn't make a difference go back to where you started.
I spent a lot of time in my younger years messing with the carbs trying to
get my little british cars fixed (partly because no money and carb
adjustment is free) most of the time it wasn't the problem was ignition
related.
If you must monkey with carbs, do one thing at a time and set back to where
you started if it doesn't fix the problem, or else you might create more.
Good Luck
Greg Lemon
54 BN1 (old smokey)
> I have developed an intermittent hesitation in my 100 on acceleration. My
wife
> calls it a "hiccup".
> Any thoughts on where to start looking for a gremlin?
> Thanks
>
> Bill
> '55 100
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 18:37:50 -0400
Subject: RE: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
Having just fitted a Hendrix Wire Wheel spin-on oil filter adapter to my
BT7, I feel able to comment. Alan Hendrix suggests using Permatex
Ultra-Copper high-temp RTV (with copper) sealant on both sides of all
gaskets (he supplies two gaskets that are stacked, and he recommends using
the sealant on all four surfaces). There's also a similar product called
Mega-Copper. I think this orange-colored sealant is great stuff!
BTW, the original Purolator oil filter housing on my BT7 seemed to have only
a paper gasket, and it never leaked, so be sure that there are no dirt
particles under your gaskets. Also, on some engine block castings, the
webbing near the left side of the filter can cause the filter to misfit
(Hendrix suggests filing away a tad of the adapter, in order to get the
clearance needed so that the adapter doesn't tilt/misfit). You may want to
check that clearance.
I seem to be seeing slightly better oil pressure since I installed my
spin-on, so I'm doubly pleased.
Which filter adapter did you fit?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Vink, Graham
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 2:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
Hello List,
I'm a newbie here, having finally figured out how to make the stubborn
majordomo bow to my wishes ...
anyway, I've just bought a spin-on oil filter adaptor for my '63 BJ7 that
mounts directly to the block, and it leaks under pressure -- oil is pumped
out slowly but surely from under the gasket.
Does anyone else have this problem? I called Moss, and they suggested using
a sealer on the gasket. I'll try, but it seems to me it should seal without
a sealer.
also, is there any possibility that this could be caused by a defective
filter?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Graham
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 17:25:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Re. 100 timing mark
There are two issues here.
The timing marks calculate to be 21.5 degrees per inch of pulley
circumference. You can put white paint marks on
TDC
5 degrees = .232" clockwise looking from the front
10 degrees = .465"
20 degrees = .930"
30 degrees = 1.40"
40 degrees = 1.86"
The second issue is the pointer. You can attach a brass flat head screw
to the timing cover, screw head to the cover. Inline with the embossed
arrow & close to the pulley. I cleaned the surfaces & used J-B Qwik Weld
to attach the screw to the cover. This screw sticks out about a half
inch from the cover. With a timing light pointed in front of the
generator pulley & aimed down at the timing marks, you can check timing
from the top side.
You should be looking for around 38-40 degrees BTDC with the engine
revved to 4000 rpm & vacuum advance disconnected. Where the timing is at
idle will depend upon your particular distributor & really isn't very
important. You can record the timing & rpm at idle as a future setting
reference. If you get pinging under load,retard a few degrees.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> I recently rebuilt my 100-4 motor to M specs and static timed the motor
> to 5/16'' before. TDC on the timing mark The motor runs OK but I cant
> help but feel uneasy due to the lack of marks on this motor .I have read
> suggestions that timing might be set between 5/16" and TDC.The arrow on
> the timing cover is impossible to read without jacking up the car and
> even so who knows how close you actually are .like most things Healey
> the answer to this is not rooted in this century and barely in the last
> century so it must be esoteric and stupidly simple. Would their be but
> one simpleton amongst the multitude to enlighten us all ?
> Yours, Jaunito
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 19:26:29 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
Tracy
On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 18:37:50 -0400
"Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
>Hi Graham:
>
>Having just fitted a Hendrix Wire Wheel spin-on oil
>filter adapter to my
>BT7, I feel able to comment. Alan Hendrix suggests using
>Permatex
>Ultra-Copper high-temp RTV (with copper) sealant on both
>sides of all
>gaskets (he supplies two gaskets that are stacked, and he
>recommends using
>the sealant on all four surfaces). There's also a similar
>product called
>Mega-Copper. I think this orange-colored sealant is great
>stuff!
>
>BTW, the original Purolator oil filter housing on my BT7
>seemed to have only
>a paper gasket, and it never leaked, so be sure that
>there are no dirt
>particles under your gaskets. Also, on some engine block
>castings, the
>webbing near the left side of the filter can cause the
>filter to misfit
>(Hendrix suggests filing away a tad of the adapter, in
>order to get the
>clearance needed so that the adapter doesn't
>tilt/misfit). You may want to
>check that clearance.
>
>I seem to be seeing slightly better oil pressure since I
>installed my
>spin-on, so I'm doubly pleased.
>
>Which filter adapter did you fit?
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Vink,
>Graham
>Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 2:49 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
>
>
>Hello List,
>
>I'm a newbie here, having finally figured out how to make
>the stubborn
>majordomo bow to my wishes ...
>
>anyway, I've just bought a spin-on oil filter adaptor for
>my '63 BJ7 that
>mounts directly to the block, and it leaks under pressure
>-- oil is pumped
>out slowly but surely from under the gasket.
>
>Does anyone else have this problem? I called Moss, and
>they suggested using
>a sealer on the gasket. I'll try, but it seems to me it
>should seal without
>a sealer.
>
>also, is there any possibility that this could be caused
>by a defective
>filter?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>Graham
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 17:39:47 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-m spark plugs
I'm not sure about the Champion numbers but I would try a NGK B8ES
first. If this proves to be too cold, lot of carbon build up on the plug
insulator nose, try a hotter NGK B7ES. If by chance you need a colder
plug, insulator nose blistered, try the NGK B9ES.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jonathan and Carole Quandt wrote:
> Anyone have the Champion and NGK #s for a 100-M motor thanks Jonathan
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 20:38:25 -0500
Subject: laygear question?????
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:29:03 -0400
Subject: RE: laygear question?????
I think you will find that the teeth on the 1B3728 will slope the
opposite direction to the ones on the AEC3649. I don't think any of the
laygears with different part numbers are interchangeable.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: 11-Aug-03 9:38 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: laygear question?????
I have a laygear question. I'm about to rebuild two gearboxes, a BT-7
sideshift and a BJ-7 centershift. I just got two laygears from AH
Spares. I
sent them two AEC3649 laygears and they sent me two 1B3728 reconditioned
laygears. My question is, will these two 1B3728 laygears work in my two
gearboxes instead of the AEC3649 laygears or should I send them back.
It would
put a real damper on my planned rebuild this weekend. Thanks in
advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 19:40:22 -0700
Subject: test, please ignore
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 21:48:09 -0500
Subject: Re: General speedo information - possible fix
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 9:47 PM
Subject: General speedo information - possible fix
> Hi,
>
> My speedometer needle has been wildly oscillating plus or minus around
> 15 mph.
>
> I pulled, cleaned, & greased the inner cable - no improvement.
>
> Got a new complete cable to try as the next step. Got lazy & decided to
> try replacing just the inner cable. Cleaned, greased & installed it.
> Presto -- dead steady needle again & didn't have to take half the car
> apart to replace the outer cable.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 23:02:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Need carb part for BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 21:05:55 -0600
Subject: Re: General speedo information - possible fix
Dave Russell
BN2
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
> Thats great, now will you stop by and fix my oscillating MGB speedo. I
> have swaped out cables (new), speedo and even the trany drive gear that
> pulls out of the side of the trany , still oscillates radically after about
> 40 mph. At least I can tell I'm going some where between 20 and 60 mph.
> I'd send the speedo off to the rebuilder but the other "known good"
> speedo did the samething when substituted. Pretty frustrating.
> Any thoughts welcome.
>
> Mark
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From "Ian Nelson" <iann191650 at aol.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 20:06:16 -0700
Subject: Attempted Theft / Ignition Question - Thanks for reples
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 08:46:06 -0400
Subject: hiccup
Bill
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 10:35:51 -0400
Subject: Odo Good, But Speedo Bad
I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and might possibly offer a
solution or at least tell me the results of your experience...
I recently installed a new speedometer drive and cable in my Bugeye, and
while the odometer is very, very accurate, the speedo is very, very off. I
tended to assume that if the odo were accurate, then the speedo must also
be. Several odo checks on a recent rally showed that the odo is spot-on,
even after some tens of miles. However, a check of the speedo revealed that
it is way off. I held 60 MPH as closely as possible for a mile, and while
of course the time should have been 60 seconds, it was 70 seconds!
Since the odo is so accurate I tend to believe that the gearing and cable
are correct and accurate. I suppose that the solution is to have the gauge
rebuilt/calibrated at Moma or Nisonger or a similar shop, but it just seemed
odd that part of the gauge would be so accurate and another part so
inaccurate. I know that the odo is mechanically linked to the input drive,
and that the speedo needle is dependent upon some weird kind of floating
flywheel, but still...
Any insights or advice before I send it off for "regrooving"*?
(* Anyone else remember Firesign Theater?)
Thanks.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 12:45:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Odo Good, But Speedo Bad
Nisonger will perhaps ask you to count the revolutions for
a recalibration. See other threads for the details or
just ask one of the Nisonger techies. Perhaps this was
"repaired or Calibrated" in the past.
Tracy
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003 10:35:51 -0400
"Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and
>might possibly offer a solution or at least tell me the
>results of your experience...
>
>I recently installed a new speedometer drive and cable in
>my Bugeye, and while the odometer is very, very accurate,
>the speedo is very, very off. I tended to assume that if
>the odo were accurate, then the speedo must also be.
> Several odo checks on a recent rally showed that the odo
>is spot-on, even after some tens of miles. However, a
>check of the speedo revealed that it is way off. I held
>60 MPH as closely as possible for a mile, and while of
>course the time should have been 60 seconds, it was 70
>seconds!
>
>Since the odo is so accurate I tend to believe that the
>gearing and cable are correct and accurate. I suppose
>that the solution is to have the gauge rebuilt/calibrated
>at Moma or Nisonger or a similar shop, but it just seemed
>odd that part of the gauge would be so accurate and
>another part so inaccurate. I know that the odo is
>mechanically linked to the input drive, and that the
>speedo needle is dependent upon some weird kind of
>floating flywheel, but still...
>
>Any insights or advice before I send it off for
>"regrooving"*?
>
>(* Anyone else remember Firesign Theater?)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 10:19:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: O/T more auto industry jobs lost
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 12:36:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Odo Good, But Speedo Bad
If you are really interested in speedo workings, go here;
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/speedo/st1.htm
Dave Russell
BN2
Reid Trummel wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> it just seemed odd that part of the gauge would be so accurate and
> another part so inaccurate. I know that the odo is mechanically linked
> to the input drive, and that the speedo needle is dependent upon some
> weird kind of floating flywheel, but still...
>
> Any insights or advice before I send it off for "regrooving"*?
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 19:59:24 +0100
Subject: Re: Odo Good, But Speedo Bad
You are correct in all your assumptions except that the 'floating
flywheel' is actually a drag cup. How this bit woeks is that a magnet
comnected to the input cable, rotating in the same direction as the
needle moves, creates a field in the cup in which it rotates. The faster
the magnet spins the more the drag. This drag then rotates the cup and
needle around against coil springs.
The long term calibration then relies on the magnet not becoming
demagnetised, the springs not loosing their strength, the depth of the
magnet in the cup not changing and the bearings staying in good order.
To add to this oil, rust, water and other debris can get between the
magnet and cup. This will then drag the drag cup around further than
intended and cause a high reading. Initial calibration is carried out by
stengthening or weakening the magnet's strength by applying external
fields, by adjusting the springs and or changing the depth of the magnet
in the drag cup.
A long explanation I admit but it might lead you to appreciate that a
professional recondition might be the best answer.
All the best
>
>I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and might possibly
>offer a solution or at least tell me the results of your experience...
>
>I recently installed a new speedometer drive and cable in my Bugeye,
>and while the odometer is very, very accurate, the speedo is very, very
>off. I tended to assume that if the odo were accurate, then the speedo
>must also be. Several odo checks on a recent rally showed that the odo
>is spot-on, even after some tens of miles. However, a check of the
>speedo revealed that it is way off. I held 60 MPH as closely as
>possible for a mile, and while of course the time should have been 60
>seconds, it was 70 seconds!
>
>Since the odo is so accurate I tend to believe that the gearing and
>cable are correct and accurate. I suppose that the solution is to have
>the gauge rebuilt/calibrated at Moma or Nisonger or a similar shop, but
>it just seemed odd that part of the gauge would be so accurate and
>another part so inaccurate. I know that the odo is mechanically linked
>to the input drive, and that the speedo needle is dependent upon some
>weird kind of floating flywheel, but still...
>
>Any insights or advice before I send it off for "regrooving"*?
>
>(* Anyone else remember Firesign Theater?)
>
>Thanks.
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
--
John Harper
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 16:10:49 -0500
Subject: Wannabe new subscriber
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 16:16:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Wannabe new subscriber
Go here, it's at the bottom of every list mail, & follow directions
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Dave Russell
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Hi All, I have a pal in Canada who would like to join this awesome list. I
> just can't find the proper E-starting point...can anyone remind me??
> Thanks!!
> Jack
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 21:33:47 -0700
Subject: Comp Q
Me again. Computerly challenged.
Have been trying to open up some jpeg pictures stored in one of my folders.
But I get the message "Windows cannot find PSUITEQSV.EXE"
Have I lost something? Can someone help me here?
Keith Pennell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 18:40:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: O/T more auto industry jobs lost
California is not competitive for a whole host of
reasons, number one you can look at Gray Davis.
Let me put things in perspective - once you include
all the various taxes - federal, state, sales,
payroll, property etc. etc., the effective tax rate in
California is about the same as in Australia...
- yet -
Australia provides nationalized health care to ALL of
its people and has, frankly, a higher standard of
living!
These taxes have to be paid by somebody, and it is
you, the consumer.
If American Racing needs to be more competitive to go
south of the border, I assure you it isn't just about
salaries... it is about the buried cost of these
taxes... and a convoluted and monsterously overbearing
environmental code in california that basically
penalizes manufacturers without thinking of the big
picture (who provide the jobs). Make a note...I am
basically an Environmentalist myself...
As an example... automotive paint shops are completely
over regulated (ostensibly to preven environmental
pollution - as are plating and metal working shops...
like American Racing), meanwhile the state allows the
unrestricted sales of SUVs and other vehicles which
spew more 1,000,000 times more pollution into the
atmosphere than all the paint shops in the US
combined. Where's the logic in that?
I'll tell you the logic - SUVs = profits = Rich
american car companies. Paint shops = the little guy
trying to make a living = nobody cares in govt = the
little guy loses again.
If this keeps up, people are going to start throwing
tea again into the harbor ... California has a long
way to go, baby!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- joe mulqueen <joemulqueen@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Just noted in The Los Angeles Times where American
> Racing is eliminating 300 local jobs and transfering
> their work to Mexico.
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 21:14:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Selling???
Trust me on this one. Keep both cars. Put the BN2 project on moth balls
for a few years while taking care of your house business, then in a few
years carry on with your BN2 project. I gaurantee, you'll kick yourself
later for selling to fund another.
>From experience.....
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike MacLean" <macleans@earthlink.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Selling???
> With all this talk of selling, I have been faced with the dilemma of
> funding my BN2 restoration. It is going to cost upwards of $30,000 to
> do correctly to 100M specifications. At the same time I am looking to
> buy a new larger home with a larger garage, of course. I need to find
> some money somewhere and selling my award winning Bugeye would certainly
> provide a large portion of the funds. My wife would go into siezure if
> I told her I needed that kind of money right now while we are house
> hunting. I have been toying with this idea just as Gerard is finishing
> up a 1275 for me. As Peter says, I will be looking for another Bugeye
> to install this motor and a Datsun 5 speed in as soon as the BN2 is
> finished. I took the Bugeye for a drive last night after fixing the
> dashpot plunger that came apart in the rear SU carb. It was a lot of
> fun. It took me several years to restore this car and I have met many
> wonderful and generous folks at meets and on this list. I don't think
> I'll be able to say the same thing during the BN2 restoration.
>
> Mike MacLean
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 21:24:35 -0500
Subject: Kingpin Restorer Needed
Thanks , Mark
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 22:32:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Kingpin Restorer Needed
> What other companies have
> you used and had success with.
>
Mark--
I don't know what in what area of the US you are located and shipping charges
are certainly a consideration, but I sent mine to Von's Restorations just
outside of Charlotte, NC. (803-548-4590) and he turned them around in one day
for
something considerably less than the amount you stated.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 22:41:31 -0400
Subject: Re: 100-m spark plugs
regards,
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 6:13 PM
Subject: 100-m spark plugs
> Anyone have the Champion and NGK #s for a 100-M motor thanks Jonathan
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 22:23:40 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box
I have opened a thread with the owner of the chromate yellow air box that I
gave a report on. I am looking for a picture of the lock plates and he is
sending it.
As to the experts on the subject have chimed in, Roger Moment offers on page
39
"Cold air boxes on BN1s have also been found painted in hammertone silver,
black, or engine green. The box had a brass plaque with the 100 flash . . .
"
The picture on the same page has a faint trace, maybe, of the undisputed
original rivets.
So adding to the discussion of color is the yellow chromate choice. And now
we know how to build nut plates, should anybody want to spend that kind of
time and money.
Best Regards,
Jim
1956 100-M (only Healey in Collierville, TN)
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: "MARILYN COLES" <mjco@ptd.net>
Cc: <PADDYMCK@peoplepc.com>; <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>; "Healey"
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: cold air box
Geez, guys, I never thought this thread would develop like it did.
Alex, first of all, I never questioned your integrity! The pics you sent
are "dead
on" what I have except for the paint. I don't doubt you for a minute that
it's an
over the counter box.
But, I have gone to many Healey Meets all over the world since I got hooked
in 1972
and have never seen one like yours. Every one I've ever seen is bare
aluminum.
Some with, some without the nifty little plaque. And, the majority, as I
have told
Jim, are of crude manufacture.
Have all of you noticed that the usual EXPERTS on the Healey List have been
uncommonly silent about this? Why is that? I, at least, am waiting for
them to
chime in.
Alex, hang on to it. I have a feeling it could be worth something!
And, I will say sorry guys, my original cold box is on the shelf. I have
restored
#663 as one hell of a quick driver, not concours. Ergo, he's running
(GASP!) K &
N's!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 (M) # 663
(Previous owner of 12 other Healeys.)
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 20:26:13 -0700
Subject: Re selling
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 21:36:45 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-m spark plugs
I suggested that Juanito start with a B8 because I'm not sure but what
he has a higher compression ratio than standard 100M. Better a little
too cold than too hot on a new untried engine. I know that a B7 is just
slightly too cold (but never fouls) for a low comp. BN2, but the B6 is
slightly too hot on the low comp engine. You could certainly try the
hotter B6 but I would watch it carefully.
I can get almost any NGK plug from my local parts stores. Sometimes they
have to order it but it arrives in the next day or two.
BTW - The B7ES is a standard plug, the BP7ES is a projected nose plug.
Either will work but may require slight timing changes. I think that the
RN3C is equivalent to the BR8EV which is a resistor type plug. Cross
reference charts may vary.
Dave Russell
BN2
Pat Davis wrote:
> The 100M Champion plug is now superseded to RN3C. I was recommended to try
> NGK BP6ES for 100M or higher tune but I saw another reply mentioning a range
> of grades through 7,8,9. Can anybody tell me where you can get these
> different types of NGK plugs?
>
> regards,
>
> Peter Davis
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 00:25:14 -0400
Subject: BN1 Flywheel Removal
Thanks to those of you who replied to my request for help in removing the
flywheel bolts from my BN1. The impact wrench did the trick. However, now
that the bolts are out the flywheel will not come off. I have pulled and
pulled and it won't budge. Anyone have any tricks here? Is some sort of gear
puller required? Is there even such a thing available for something the size
of this flywheel?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 00:35:16 -0400
Subject: BN1 Interior Rivets
Gary and Rogers book says that the battery cover straps and the spare tire
cover were secured with black painted rivets. Were these all of the same
type and size (i.e. tire cover and battery cover the same)? Are these
available anywhere?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 23:39:38 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Flywheel Removal
It is probably just rusted on. It is a close fit but not a press fit.Try
tapping with a lead hammer or something. If it is an early model there
may be a timing mark on it which is in line with the #1,4 crank throws.
So you need to get it back on in the same position.
Before you remove it this would be a good time to find & align the
timing marks on the flywheel & transfer them to the front cover & front
pulley for future reference. Or-- if or when the pistons are in, find #1
TDC with a dial indicator & put timing marks on the front of the engine.
Dave Russell
BN2
Michael E. Williams wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Thanks to those of you who replied to my request for help in removing
> the flywheel bolts from my BN1. The impact wrench did the trick.
> However, now that the bolts are out the flywheel will not come off. I
> have pulled and pulled and it won't budge. Anyone have any tricks
> here? Is some sort of gear puller required? Is there even such a
> thing available for something the size of this flywheel?
>
> --Michael '55 BN1
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 19:54:18 +1000
Subject: Re: Which RON rating unleaded for my standard BJ8?
Fuel in Australia is rated at the pump based on Research Octane Number
(RON). This rating is performed on a single cylinder engine with variable
cylinder height and is actually a figure derived by how the fuel "knocks"
compared to normal-Heptane (0 octane) and iso-octane (100 octane). Motor
Octane Number (MON) is determined the same way but at a higher speed and
with variable spark advance.
Standard ULP has a minimum RON of 91 and MON of 81 this would give an AKI of
86
Premium ULP ------- " ------- RON 95 MON 85 ---------
" --------- AKI 90
Lead replacement ---- " ------- RON 96 MON 85 ---------
" --------- AKI 90.5
Optimax/Ulimate ---- " ------ RON 98 MON 85 ---------
" --------- AKI 91.5
Most petrols have a characteristic density of 0.72 gm/lt (@15C) but the
Optimax/Ultimate has a density of 0.75 gm/lt so you see with those you get a
little more "bang" per litre meaning better fuel economy.
It would be good if all countries would realise that the world is getting
smaller and get together and agree on standard units of measurement. It gets
even more confusing in my industry buying crudes from OS with US/imperial
gallons and barrels, API gravity (US) vs density, Centigrade/Fahrenheit etc.
| "AKI is determined based on an average of the Research Octane Number (RON)
| and the Motor Octane Number (MON). The formula is RON+MON/2 normally
| abbreviated as R+M/2 on the pump.
| Octane is tested in a single cylinder octane test engine. The MON is a
| measure of the gasoline's ability to resist knock under sever operating
| conditions. MON affects high speed, part throttle and performance (under
| load such as in passing). The RON on the other hand, is a measure of
| gasoline's ability to resist knock under less sever conditions. RON
affects
| low to medium speed knock and engine run-on (dieseling). For a given AKI,
| RON is typically 8-10 points higher than the MON. As an example, 87 AKI
| (pump octane) fuel would have a MON of 82 and a RON of 92. "
| http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/octane.html
|
Greg Bankin
(Chemist at BP refinery in Oz)
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Well, having received the email below, on this subject (thanks, Bob),
| can anyone shed any light on the rating system differences Bob alludes
| to?
|
| It seems bizarre that we'd have two different rating standards either
| side of the pond, but both of which are in the 95-98 bracket. 'RON', I
| guess, stands for '(something or other) Octane Number'. Is 'M+R' the
| same thing, but on a different scale, or same scale? We do both have
| things called pints, that are just enough different to confuse, so
| anything's possible!!
|
| I just need to know we are talking the same language both sides of the
| pond before I am unintentionally misled.
|
| For those who missed my original post, here's the nub of it:
|
| "So, here in the UK, we have a choice of either 95 RON ('premium') or 98
| RON ('super'). I'm currently using 95, and I think I'm getting pinking
| (as we call it) or pinging, on load. My idle timing is correct according
| to my strobe.
| Am I better of using 98, or tweaking the timing for 95? I have standard
| compression."
|
|
| TIA all.
|
| ------- Forwarded message follows -------
| In message <3d.337d3e72.2c6907f4@aol.com>, N0040@aol.com writes
| >Hi Alan,
| >
| >Your rating must be different than in the U.S.
| >
| >95 would be a high octane. 98 is for very high compression racing
engines, or
| >vehicles with really advanced timing.
| >
| >With standard compression (probably up to 10.5:1) and timing, U.S. 95
octane
| >(M+R) should always suffice. Are you sure your timing isn't advanced ?
| >
| >If you retard it a little each outing, until you notice the pinging
stops,
| >you can then determine if you have a noticeable power lost.
| >
| >Did you get it from a blended pump (like Sunoco here in the U.S.) which
| >blends low and high octane at the pump to meet selected octane setting?
| >Where you
| >can get a batch of low octane without the high blended in.
| >
| >I'll bet there is a big difference in price too, between the 95 and 98.
| >If you're a "Sunday" Healey driver and don't go through much (petrol),
| >perhaps the difference of a few bucks is not critical. I would then go
| >to the 98 and
| >solve the pinging, especially if the timing and power seems right.
| >
| >Others agree that the use of 'leaded" fuels (without the hardened seats
and
| >valves) is not that critical, since we are generally not running high
speeds
| >and high RPMs as in racing situations.
| >
| >Best Regards,
| >Bob - BJ8
| >Milford, MI
| >
|
| --
| Alan F Cross
|
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 09:37:17 +0100
Subject: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
===================================
Hi, Alan -
I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My
certificate is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the
collection (426) of the BJ8 registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been
issuing certificates for at least 22 years, not 14.
Steve Byers
====================================
I consequently wrote to Richard Bacchus, and have now received the
following reply:
================================
Dear Alan
Sorry for not getting back sooner, having been a recent addition to the
Archive I was trying to find out when the certificates were first
issued.
I think this comes down to a, 'when is it a letter and when is it a
certificate?' situation, I think the best way to look at it is a gradual
evolution as the BMIHT established itself, and when the infrastructure
existed to record certificates issued on a data base.
Sorry I can't be more definitive
Regards
Richard
=====================================
I'm sure if Listers have more information than Mr Bacchus on this
matter, he would be pleased to hear from them! His email address is:
"Bacchus, Richard (R.)" <rbacchus@landrover.com>
Regards ....
--
Alan F Cross
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 11:31:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
Having worked at Cowley earlier than this I still had friends there who
confirm in general terms the date of 'late 1984' . I would suggest that
Steve's 29 August 1984 date was for a certificate produced in the very
early days of getting the system underway. We have to question the 10
June 1981 date against the discovery of the micro film at Cowley but
there could have been records of Abingdon car production available at
Studley which our British club did not know about?
Does anybody know more?
By the way I understand that some of the micro film was found to be in a
poor state which explains why sometimes errors and omissions of data can
occur.
So far, I am led to believe, the original Longbridge production cards
have not been found. If anybody knows otherwise then please let us all
know.
All the best
>In response to my forwarding a note about the "14 years of Heritage
>Certificates" to the List, as indicated by Richard Bacchus ast BMIHT, I
>received the following note from Steve Byers:
>
>===================================
>Hi, Alan -
>
>I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My
>certificate is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the
>collection (426) of the BJ8 registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been
>issuing certificates for at least 22 years, not 14.
>
>Steve Byers
>====================================
>
>I consequently wrote to Richard Bacchus, and have now received the
>following reply:
>
>================================
>Dear Alan
>
>Sorry for not getting back sooner, having been a recent addition to the
>Archive I was trying to find out when the certificates were first
>issued.
>I think this comes down to a, 'when is it a letter and when is it a
>certificate?' situation, I think the best way to look at it is a
>gradual evolution as the BMIHT established itself, and when the
>infrastructure existed to record certificates issued on a data base.
>
>Sorry I can't be more definitive
>Regards
>Richard
>=====================================
>I'm sure if Listers have more information than Mr Bacchus on this
>matter, he would be pleased to hear from them! His email address is:
>
>"Bacchus, Richard (R.)" <rbacchus@landrover.com>
>
>Regards ....
--
John Harper
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:37:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Re selling
in 1984 . . . our BN1 with Borani wires, 20-coat laquer and youthful
memories fetched $6,000 to buy a new state-of-the-art drybase furnace.
Furnace lasted three years before the frame rusted out. It took far too long
to get back to the essentials of a healthy [Healey] lifestyle.
allen
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from heat. I believe the color was applied with a tinted lacquer, not
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:45:16 -0400
Subject: Re: cold air box
allen
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:00:07 -0500
Subject: leaking spin-on oil filter adaptor - SOLVED!
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 22:57:27 +1000
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
I think there is a 'company name' issue at play here.
BMIHT was incorporated in 1983 - so BMIHT couldn't have issued a certificate
before that date.
But their predecessor was BL Heritage - who existed 1978 - 1983.
You can bet that much the same things were happening at the same place on
6th January 1983 as on 8th January 1983....... and the same certificates
were available on 10 June 1981..... I'd guess certificates pre Jan 1983 were
BL Heritage - post Jan 1983 were BMIHT.
This is what I am basing this theory on:
"The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust (BMIHT) is an independent Trust
incorporated on 7th January 1983 to preserve the heritage of the British
Motor Industry. The Trust originated as Leyland Historic Vehicles which was
established in 1957 to preserve the heritage of those UK motor companies
which were brought together in the British Leyland Motor Corporation. In
1978 the Company was renamed BL Heritage Ltd., and in 1983 the British Motor
Industry Heritage Trust was incorporated to take on its academic
responsibilities."
http://www.warwick.ac.uk/services/library/mrc/ead/226col.htm
So a possible explanation is that 21 years is probably correct since "BMIHT"
started issuing certificates -
but "BL Heritage Ltd" could have been issuing them since 1978 - which would
explain Steve Byers 'earlier' certificates!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
> The earliest reference I can find to this is in the January 1985
> Revcounter where it was said that 'in the last three months the BMIHT
> had secured micro film records of all job cards relating to Longbridge
> built cars'.
>
> Having worked at Cowley earlier than this I still had friends there who
> confirm in general terms the date of 'late 1984' . I would suggest that
> Steve's 29 August 1984 date was for a certificate produced in the very
> early days of getting the system underway. We have to question the 10
> June 1981 date against the discovery of the micro film at Cowley but
> there could have been records of Abingdon car production available at
> Studley which our British club did not know about?
>
> Does anybody know more?
>
> By the way I understand that some of the micro film was found to be in a
> poor state which explains why sometimes errors and omissions of data can
> occur.
>
> So far, I am led to believe, the original Longbridge production cards
> have not been found. If anybody knows otherwise then please let us all
> know.
>
> All the best
>
> >In response to my forwarding a note about the "14 years of Heritage
> >Certificates" to the List, as indicated by Richard Bacchus ast BMIHT, I
> >received the following note from Steve Byers:
> >
> >===================================
> >Hi, Alan -
> >
> >I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My
> >certificate is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the
> >collection (426) of the BJ8 registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been
> >issuing certificates for at least 22 years, not 14.
> >
> >Steve Byers
> >====================================
> >
> >I consequently wrote to Richard Bacchus, and have now received the
> >following reply:
> >
> >================================
> >Dear Alan
> >
> >Sorry for not getting back sooner, having been a recent addition to the
> >Archive I was trying to find out when the certificates were first
> >issued.
> >I think this comes down to a, 'when is it a letter and when is it a
> >certificate?' situation, I think the best way to look at it is a
> >gradual evolution as the BMIHT established itself, and when the
> >infrastructure existed to record certificates issued on a data base.
> >
> >Sorry I can't be more definitive
> >Regards
> >Richard
> >=====================================
> >I'm sure if Listers have more information than Mr Bacchus on this
> >matter, he would be pleased to hear from them! His email address is:
> >
> >"Bacchus, Richard (R.)" <rbacchus@landrover.com>
> >
> >Regards ....
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:03:55 -0500
Subject: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
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From Jnhorn at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 09:22:35 EDT
Subject: re: overheating, fan, shroud etc.
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 15:12:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
First a correction; the reference I made previously should have been
February 1985. There was no January issue. I looked at the first
Revcounter in my 1985 folder and did not check. The article is on page 4
and goes on to recommend writing to Anders Clausager at BMIHT Castle
Road, Studley.
I had correspondence with Anders in the early 1980s and I have one reply
dated 29th August 1980 on a BL Heritage Limited letterhead.
This all confirms what you say.
I believe that most agree about the dates for the first certificates for
Longbridge built Austin-Healeys.
However you have 'got me going' and I have now found a letter from
Anders published in the June 1982 Revcounter. I am going to reproduce it
in full below because it explains a great deal and brings up many other
interesting points.
********************************************
BL HERITAGE
Dear Members,
First of all, we do not have any records for any of the Austin-Healeys
built at Longbridge (or indeed Warwick) - our records are solely for the
cars built at Abingdon. The list of Austin-Healeys for which we have the
records are as follows:
100/6 BN4 Chassis numbers between 50769 and 77766
100/6 BN6 " " 501 and 4650
3000 All models Chassis numbers from 101 to 43026
Sprite MkI 101 to 50116
Sprite MkII - IV 101 to 85255
This means while we can service enquiries for all those cars listed
above, we cannot deal with any of the following;
100 and l00M; 100S; BN1 and BN2, four cylinder models
100/6 BN4 Chassis numbers lower than 50769
Sprite MkIV (md. Austin Sprite AAN 10) 85256 to 87824, 1969-71
The two first categories because as far as is known, there are no
records preserved; the last batch of Sprites because the records have
not yet been transferred to us.
Then a special word of warning to owners of MkI Sprites, the "Frogeyes":
To trace your car we need the car/chassis number, which is prefixed AN5
or AN5L (on rhd, resp. lhd. cars). This number is stamped on the makers
plate which is found under the bonnet. it appears that MkI Sprites also
have two other plates with numbers stamped on, one on each door hinge
pillar. The plate on the left also gives a number prefixed AN5; this is
a number of which we have no records and it is not known what it stands
for; it may be some kind of commission number. Many people believe this
is the body number. The body number (as listed in the records) is in
fact on the plate on the right door hinge pillar and this number is
prefixed BAE.
So be aware that the number on the left hand door hinge pillar -although
prefixed AN5 is not your car/chassis number, and is of no use in trying
to trace your cars history. Please give the number from the plate under
the bonnet. If you do not have this number it is possible to trace your
cars history from either the original engine number (prefixed 9C-UH), or
the original body number, from the right door pillar with the BAE
prefix.
The fee for Austin-Healey Club members for this service is still #1 (if
paid in pound sterling, cash, cheque or P.O.) whereas the fee is #2 to
nonmembers. Please quote membership number if you have one. However, we
have had to impose a somewhat higher fee for enquiries from abroad,
especially from the U.S.A., to cover the higher postage costs and also
to offset the banking charges we have to pay when cashing an American
cheque; if paying U.S. Dollars, the fee is there-fore $5. We hope to
keep the fees at this level for some time yet but we may have to
increase sometime later in the year.
Yours sincerely,
Anders Ditlev Clausager
Archivist.
*********************************
All the best
>
>I think there is a 'company name' issue at play here.
>
>BMIHT was incorporated in 1983 - so BMIHT couldn't have issued a certificate
>before that date.
>
>But their predecessor was BL Heritage - who existed 1978 - 1983.
>
>You can bet that much the same things were happening at the same place on
>6th January 1983 as on 8th January 1983....... and the same certificates
>were available on 10 June 1981..... I'd guess certificates pre Jan 1983 were
>BL Heritage - post Jan 1983 were BMIHT.
>
>This is what I am basing this theory on:
>
>"The British Motor Industry Heritage Trust (BMIHT) is an independent Trust
>incorporated on 7th January 1983 to preserve the heritage of the British
>Motor Industry. The Trust originated as Leyland Historic Vehicles which was
>established in 1957 to preserve the heritage of those UK motor companies
>which were brought together in the British Leyland Motor Corporation. In
>1978 the Company was renamed BL Heritage Ltd., and in 1983 the British Motor
>Industry Heritage Trust was incorporated to take on its academic
>responsibilities."
>
>http://www.warwick.ac.uk/services/library/mrc/ead/226col.htm
>
>So a possible explanation is that 21 years is probably correct since "BMIHT"
>started issuing certificates -
>but "BL Heritage Ltd" could have been issuing them since 1978 - which would
>explain Steve Byers 'earlier' certificates!
>
>Best regards
>
>Chris
>______________________________________
>
>Chris Dimmock
>Sydney Australia
>
>http://www.myaustinhealey.com
>______________________________________
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Harper" <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
>To: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 8:31 PM
>Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
>
>
>> The earliest reference I can find to this is in the January 1985
>> Revcounter where it was said that 'in the last three months the BMIHT
>> had secured micro film records of all job cards relating to Longbridge
>> built cars'.
>>
>> Having worked at Cowley earlier than this I still had friends there who
>> confirm in general terms the date of 'late 1984' . I would suggest that
>> Steve's 29 August 1984 date was for a certificate produced in the very
>> early days of getting the system underway. We have to question the 10
>> June 1981 date against the discovery of the micro film at Cowley but
>> there could have been records of Abingdon car production available at
>> Studley which our British club did not know about?
>>
>> Does anybody know more?
>>
>> By the way I understand that some of the micro film was found to be in a
>> poor state which explains why sometimes errors and omissions of data can
>> occur.
>>
>> So far, I am led to believe, the original Longbridge production cards
>> have not been found. If anybody knows otherwise then please let us all
>> know.
>>
>> All the best
>>
>> >In response to my forwarding a note about the "14 years of Heritage
>> >Certificates" to the List, as indicated by Richard Bacchus ast BMIHT, I
>> >received the following note from Steve Byers:
>> >
>> >===================================
>> >Hi, Alan -
>> >
>> >I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My
>> >certificate is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the
>> >collection (426) of the BJ8 registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been
>> >issuing certificates for at least 22 years, not 14.
>> >
>> >Steve Byers
>> >====================================
>> >
>> >I consequently wrote to Richard Bacchus, and have now received the
>> >following reply:
>> >
>> >================================
>> >Dear Alan
>> >
>> >Sorry for not getting back sooner, having been a recent addition to the
>> >Archive I was trying to find out when the certificates were first
>> >issued.
>> >I think this comes down to a, 'when is it a letter and when is it a
>> >certificate?' situation, I think the best way to look at it is a
>> >gradual evolution as the BMIHT established itself, and when the
>> >infrastructure existed to record certificates issued on a data base.
>> >
>> >Sorry I can't be more definitive
>> >Regards
>> >Richard
>> >=====================================
>> >I'm sure if Listers have more information than Mr Bacchus on this
>> >matter, he would be pleased to hear from them! His email address is:
>> >
>> >"Bacchus, Richard (R.)" <rbacchus@landrover.com>
>> >
>> >Regards ....
>
--
John Harper
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 11:06:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 09:18:26 -0700
Subject: RE: Re selling
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 5:37 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Subject: Re: Re selling
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
> 15 years ago I sold my 61 bt7 for $4600 to remodel the kids bathroom
in 1984 . . . our BN1 with Borani wires, 20-coat laquer and youthful
memories fetched $6,000 to buy a new state-of-the-art drybase furnace.
Furnace lasted three years before the frame rusted out. It took far too long
to get back to the essentials of a healthy [Healey] lifestyle.
allen
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:25:22 -0400
Subject: RE: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
Can't comment on the air funnelling.
tom,
> [Original Message]
> From: Vink, Graham <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/13/03 8:02:51 AM
> Subject: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
>
> Hello list,
>
> I'm having trouble with my 63 BJ7 overheating (90-plus degree temps here
in
> steamy Virginia). It especially doesn't like stop and go traffic.
>
> The car now has a four-bladed fan (a previous version with more blades
broke
> apart in Indiana some years ago, slicing a radiator hose that caused REAL
> overheating problems.) With the earlier tropical fan, it seemed to do
> better.
>
> Is anyone using the new Moss replacement, or any other aftermarket fan?
>
> Also, on my car, the shrouds in front of the radiator pretty much point to
> the middle of it. Should they be bent out to the sides?
>
> Thanks for any comments.
>
> Graham
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:31:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
I believe that the statement in the February 1985 issue of Rev Counter, "in
the last three months the
BMIHT had secured micro film records of all job cards relating to Longbridge
built cars" refers to just that, the *Longbridge built cars.* They
previously had the Abingdon records and were issuing letters/certificates
for Abingdon-built Healeys (and other Abingdon-built cars) prior to 1985. I
myself have a letter/certificate dated 30 April 1984 for the BJ8 that I
owned in the 1980s. Interestingly, I had also requested a
letter/certificate for my BN2 at the same time, and Anders made a notation
on the letter/certificate for the BJ8 stating, "Re Austin-Healey 100 BN2:
Regret no production records preserved for 4 cylinder Healey 100s. We
therefore enclose a refund of $ 5.00 (cash) on your payment of $ 10."
It was approximately late 1984 when the microfilm record of the
Longbridge-built cars was discovered, and since early 1985 the BMIHT has
been able to issue certificates for the Longbridge-built cars as well. It
was John Wheatley's work, tediously and meticulously studying this
microfilm, that produced the discovery of the notation "Louvered bonnet" on
the cards for BN2 cars and that therefore enabled, among many other things,
a count of the number of BN2 series cars sent to the Donald Healey Motor
Company for conversation to 100M models. I have seen and studied John's
handwritten (!) list many times, and he is to be commended for completing
such a long, tedious, painstaking transcription on these records --
literally thousands of records were transcribed.
(John knew Anders Clausager well and, as an Austin employee in those days,
he was able to have access to the microfilm. And please, no one contact
John asking for a copy of his records; he's rightfully protective of them
and while he is happy to answer individual questions about individual cars,
such as confirming or denying the "Louvered bonnet" notation for a given Car
No., he is definitely not disposed towards giving out copies of these
records which could be, and have been, used for fraudulent purposes. It
would also deny the BMIHT income from certificates sales if John were to
freely publish all of his data, and this is income that the BMIHT needs to
continue to provide this service; John is also sensitive to that and
requests that inquiries that he answers be followed up by a purchase of the
certificate for the car in question.)
Regards,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
>Reply-To: John Harper <AH@jharper.demon.co.uk>
>To: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
>CC: healeys@autox.team.net, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
>Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
>Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 11:31:16 +0100
>
>The earliest reference I can find to this is in the January 1985 Revcounter
>where it was said that 'in the last three months the BMIHT had secured
>micro film records of all job cards relating to Longbridge built cars'.
>
>Having worked at Cowley earlier than this I still had friends there who
>confirm in general terms the date of 'late 1984' . I would suggest that
>Steve's 29 August 1984 date was for a certificate produced in the very
>early days of getting the system underway. We have to question the 10 June
>1981 date against the discovery of the micro film at Cowley but there could
>have been records of Abingdon car production available at Studley which our
>British club did not know about?
>
>Does anybody know more?
>
>By the way I understand that some of the micro film was found to be in a
>poor state which explains why sometimes errors and omissions of data can
>occur.
>
>So far, I am led to believe, the original Longbridge production cards have
>not been found. If anybody knows otherwise then please let us all know.
>
>All the best
>
>>In response to my forwarding a note about the "14 years of Heritage
>>Certificates" to the List, as indicated by Richard Bacchus ast BMIHT, I
>>received the following note from Steve Byers:
>>
>>===================================
>>Hi, Alan -
>>
>>I'm wondering if the "14 years" is a typo, or just a mistake. My
>>certificate is dated 29 August 1984, and the oldest one in the collection
>>(426) of the BJ8 registry is 10 June 1981, so BMIHT has been issuing
>>certificates for at least 22 years, not 14.
>>
>>Steve Byers
>>====================================
>>
>>I consequently wrote to Richard Bacchus, and have now received the
>>following reply:
>>
>>================================
>>Dear Alan
>>
>>Sorry for not getting back sooner, having been a recent addition to the
>>Archive I was trying to find out when the certificates were first issued.
>>I think this comes down to a, 'when is it a letter and when is it a
>>certificate?' situation, I think the best way to look at it is a gradual
>>evolution as the BMIHT established itself, and when the infrastructure
>>existed to record certificates issued on a data base.
>>
>>Sorry I can't be more definitive
>>Regards
>>Richard
>>=====================================
>>I'm sure if Listers have more information than Mr Bacchus on this matter,
>>he would be pleased to hear from them! His email address is:
>>
>>"Bacchus, Richard (R.)" <rbacchus@landrover.com>
>>
>>Regards ....
>
>--
>John Harper
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 09:51:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapters
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 19:26:29 -0400
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
I replaced my Telcamet mess with a spin on adapter
from Moss. I used hylomar "gorilla snot" and don't
have any leaks. Changing oil is a snap (or spin).
Tracy
On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 18:37:50 -0400
"Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote:
>Hi Graham:
>
>Having just fitted a Hendrix Wire Wheel spin-on oil
>filter adapter to my BT7...........
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:49:54 -0500
Subject: Healey seat belts question
A couple of you might remember me from this list when I still had my old
Sprite a few years ago.
My wife and I have decided that it is time to shed the two cars I have now
and get the big Healey I have always wanted. I started in earnest last
night looking for a good older restoration or nice original 4 seat car that
we can have fun in without having to undergo a major restoration or rebuild.
One question that she brought up that I couldn't answer. Can rear seat
belts be fitted into the car? The reason for the 4 seater is my 15 month
old girl, and I need to be able to install her car seat back there so this
will be a "family" hobby.
I look forward to hearing from old friends...
Patton Dickson
Richmond, TX
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 13:54:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Re selling
James Lea, Happy in Maine.
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 13:07:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey seat belts question
Technically, these might not be anchored quite as strongly as any
"factory" belts would be in a modern car, but I think they're more than
adequate.
My two cents worth ...
Graham
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 14:32:09 -0400
Subject: Distributor interchangeability
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From "GuyMark Studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 14:40:55 -0400
Subject: shock dampers
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:14:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey seat belts question
> Hi guys,
>
> A couple of you might remember me from this list when I still had my old
> Sprite a few years ago.
>
> My wife and I have decided that it is time to shed the two cars I have now
> and get the big Healey I have always wanted. I started in earnest last
> night looking for a good older restoration or nice original 4 seat car that
> we can have fun in without having to undergo a major restoration or rebuild.
>
> One question that she brought up that I couldn't answer. Can rear seat
> belts be fitted into the car? The reason for the 4 seater is my 15 month
> old girl, and I need to be able to install her car seat back there so this
> will be a "family" hobby.
>
> I look forward to hearing from old friends...
>
> Patton Dickson
> Richmond, TX
Yes we have installed rear seat belts in several cars along with retractable
shoulder belts in the front seats.
If anyone is interested I had a lady call me today that has a 62 BT7 Tri
carb that they have owned since new, the car is a California car and she may
be selling the car. It has been stored inside a garage for about the last 20
+ years. Dont know any more than that right now.
At this time she is debating between selling and getting it back on the
road.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 15:21:33 -0500
Subject: Lever shock absorbers
I know about Apple, but it seems there was another company in WI or MN or
somewhere up there.
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 13:49:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Re selling
There is a cure, but only because it is hard to drive with 6 feet of
earth on
top of you!
On the topic of selling, I bought my Sprite new in 1960, drove it,
raced it,
courted in it, got married, became a father (in that order, too -- how things
change!), and eventually decided we needed money. So I put the Sprite up
for sale, but asked a price higher ($950) than the going price for used
Bugeyes
($300 - $500) thinking that as a prepared race car, somebody would buy it.
They didn't, and I am grateful for that. I didn't do much with it for
years while
other things were more important - just sat in the garage with an occasional
short drive and occasionally fixing something that need it (carbs,brakes).
Even after several years of just sitting, FFroga will still start up within
a minute
of trying. Now I've become motivated to get her back on the road as a serious
driver and I know exactly what I've got (what's rust?).
What is the point of all this verbage? If you have a good car, hang
on to it
if you can! Beats getting the itch again later and having to mortgage the
farm to get that car you sold years earlier. If you had the "itch" once,
you'll
probably get it again. I don't know how many people I've talked to at shows
that once had a Healey, sold it (for many reasons -- we've all heard the
stories)
and now want to get another one.
(No, selling was not an attempt at "Honey, I TRIED to sell the car".)
By the way, part of the motivation for getting the car back in top
condition
comes from my wife. That car is part of our life and she wants to go places
in it again (you know, down to the Social Security office, places like
that...).
It's just a little bit harder to get in and out of, now -- has it shrunk?
Robert Hughes
60 Sprite
65 BJ8
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 13:55:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Re selling
><<< My wife of forty-four years does not understand why I feel so attached
>to an inanimate object like a car? Is this just a guy thing? Is there a
>cure? >>>
There is a cure, but only because it is hard to drive with 6 feet of
earth on
top of you!
On the topic of selling, I bought my Sprite new in 1960, drove it,
raced it,
courted in it, got married, became a father (in that order, too -- how things
change!), and eventually decided we needed money. So I put the Sprite up
for sale, but asked a price higher ($950) than the going price for used
Bugeyes
($300 - $500) thinking that as a prepared race car, somebody would buy it.
They didn't, and I am grateful for that. I didn't do much with it for
years while
other things were more important - just sat in the garage with an occasional
short drive and occasionally fixing something that need it (carbs,brakes).
Even after several years of just sitting, FFroga will still start up within
a minute
of trying. Now I've become motivated to get her back on the road as a serious
driver and I know exactly what I've got (what's rust?).
What is the point of all this verbage? If you have a good car, hang
on to it
if you can! Beats getting the itch again later and having to mortgage the
farm to get that car you sold years earlier. If you had the "itch" once,
you'll
probably get it again. I don't know how many people I've talked to at shows
that once had a Healey, sold it (for many reasons -- we've all heard the
stories)
and now want to get another one.
(No, selling was not an attempt at "Honey, I TRIED to sell the car".)
By the way, part of the motivation for getting the car back in top
condition
comes from my wife. That car is part of our life and she wants to go places
in it again (you know, down to the Social Security office, places like
that...).
It's just a little bit harder to get in and out of, now -- has it shrunk?
Robert Hughes
60 Sprite
65 BJ8
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 13:56:15 -0700
Subject: Re Selling
There is a cure, but only because it is hard to drive with 6 feet of
earth on
top of you!
On the topic of selling, I bought my Sprite new in 1960, drove it,
raced it,
courted in it, got married, became a father (in that order, too -- how things
change!), and eventually decided we needed money. So I put the Sprite up
for sale, but asked a price higher ($950) than the going price for used
Bugeyes
($300 - $500) thinking that as a prepared race car, somebody would buy it.
They didn't, and I am grateful for that. I didn't do much with it for
years while
other things were more important - just sat in the garage with an occasional
short drive and occasionally fixing something that need it (carbs,brakes).
Even after several years of just sitting, FFroga will still start up within
a minute
of trying. Now I've become motivated to get her back on the road as a serious
driver and I know exactly what I've got (what's rust?).
What is the point of all this verbage? If you have a good car, hang
on to it
if you can! Beats getting the itch again later and having to mortgage the
farm to get that car you sold years earlier. If you had the "itch" once,
you'll
probably get it again. I don't know how many people I've talked to at shows
that once had a Healey, sold it (for many reasons -- we've all heard the
stories)
and now want to get another one.
(No, selling was not an attempt at "Honey, I TRIED to sell the car".)
By the way, part of the motivation for getting the car back in top
condition
comes from my wife. That car is part of our life and she wants to go places
in it again (you know, down to the Social Security office, places like
that...).
It's just a little bit harder to get in and out of, now -- has it shrunk?
Robert Hughes
60 Sprite
65 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 16:46:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Query about the history of Heritage certificates
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 18:08:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Lever shock absorbers
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 4:21 PM
Subject: Lever shock absorbers
> Could someone please recommend a good source for (rebuilt?) lever action
> shocks with competition valving?
>
> I know about Apple, but it seems there was another company in WI or MN or
> somewhere up there.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 16:12:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Lever shock absorbers
Peter at World Wide Auto Parts does the best rebuild job. Madison, WI
nosimport@mailbag.com
800-362-1025
Dave Russell
BN2
Clyde Stutzman wrote:
> Could someone please recommend a good source for (rebuilt?) lever action
> shocks with competition valving?
>
> I know about Apple, but it seems there was another company in WI or MN or
> somewhere up there.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:18:37 -0500
Subject: Re: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
hundreds upon hundreds of healey owners who drive their cars have found the
TEXAS KOOLER ( www.ntahc.org ) pulls substantially more air through the
radiator than the stock 4 blade metal fan. the factory even offered a 6 blade
version of the same fan. our texas math quickly deduced 150% of nothing is
still nothing.
Vink, Graham wrote:
>
> Hello list,
>
> I'm having trouble with my 63 BJ7 overheating (90-plus degree temps here in
> steamy Virginia). It especially doesn't like stop and go traffic.
>
> The car now has a four-bladed fan (a previous version with more blades broke
> apart in Indiana some years ago, slicing a radiator hose that caused REAL
> overheating problems.) With the earlier tropical fan, it seemed to do
> better.
>
> Is anyone using the new Moss replacement, or any other aftermarket fan?
>
> Also, on my car, the shrouds in front of the radiator pretty much point to
> the middle of it. Should they be bent out to the sides?
>
> Thanks for any comments.
>
> Graham
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From "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 18:03:16 -0500
Subject: Lever shock absorbers
It's unanimous. Everyone recommends Peter at World Wide.
Looks like he'll get the business.
Thanks to everyone who replied.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:22:43 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Interior Rivets
Bill Lawrence
"Michael E. Williams" wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Gary and Rogers book says that the battery cover straps and the spare tire
> cover were secured with black painted rivets. Were these all of the same
> type and size (i.e. tire cover and battery cover the same)? Are these
> available anywhere?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 16:47:59 -0700
Subject: Re: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
There are a lot of issues to overheating. I fixed mine by...
(no particular order, though 7, 5 & 6 would be easy to do first)
1) new folded-fin radiator core--old stacked-fin core is much less
efficient.
2) backflush block
3) 6-blade Stainless fan & addon radiator shrouds from Nock. Modified
shrouds to seal against radiator.
4) overflow bottle
5) checked temp gauge with deep fry thermometer in t'stat housing and found
gauge runs approx 22 degrees high (haven't got around to adjusting the
needle yet.)
6) run mixture of Red Line Water Wetter & Water, not coolant (summer only in
your area) will lower temperature several degrees.
7) Check ignition timing.
Texas Kooler fan has many advocates (see archives)
Some people put electric fans--there's a lot of discussion pro/con on this
in the archive.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> Reply-To: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:03:55 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
>
> I'm having trouble with my 63 BJ7 overheating (90-plus degree temps here in
> steamy Virginia). It especially doesn't like stop and go traffic.
>
> The car now has a four-bladed fan (a previous version with more blades broke
> apart in Indiana some years ago, slicing a radiator hose that caused REAL
> overheating problems.) With the earlier tropical fan, it seemed to do
> better.
>
> Is anyone using the new Moss replacement, or any other aftermarket fan?
>
> Also, on my car, the shrouds in front of the radiator pretty much point to
> the middle of it. Should they be bent out to the sides?
>
> Thanks for any comments.
>
> Graham
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 17:43:00 -0600
Subject: Re: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
Bill Lawrence
tom felts wrote:
> I went to a 6 blade steel fan a few years ago. Using it, I have not
> overheated and that included the Austrian Alps hill climb in July 2001.
>
> Can't comment on the air funnelling.
>
> tom,
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Vink, Graham <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 8/13/03 8:02:51 AM
> > Subject: overheating, tropical fan, shroud questions
> >
> > Hello list,
> >
> > I'm having trouble with my 63 BJ7 overheating (90-plus degree temps here
> in
> > steamy Virginia). It especially doesn't like stop and go traffic.
> >
> > The car now has a four-bladed fan (a previous version with more blades
> broke
> > apart in Indiana some years ago, slicing a radiator hose that caused REAL
> > overheating problems.) With the earlier tropical fan, it seemed to do
> > better.
> >
> > Is anyone using the new Moss replacement, or any other aftermarket fan?
> >
> > Also, on my car, the shrouds in front of the radiator pretty much point to
> > the middle of it. Should they be bent out to the sides?
> >
> > Thanks for any comments.
> >
> > Graham
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 19:19:59 -0500
Subject: Re: cold air box
During concours judging, documentation of original condition, pictures etc.,
override what the judges say. In one case I inspired judges to reverse their
decision by showing a factory original picture of a paint line that I
reproduced on my car. I also noted the reasons for the paint line and gave
them good cause to me more knowledgeable about the car. All done in a
peer-to-peer knowledge sharing sort of way and resulted in good feelings all
around.
Sometimes I think that I will chrome the air box and lose the concours
points. Just because I like it that way, or maybe even have it gold plated
to match the other shiny stuff under the hood. You can tell I am not a
purist, I just enjoy the car and all those neat little parts.
Best Regards,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howell Kent Lacy" <h.k.lacy@att.net>
To: <jleblanc@midsouth.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 1:04 PM
Subject: cold air box
Jim,
I can't tell from the list if you decided that the boxes were indeed
yellow chromate or
not. I have seen serveral that were and have one. Kovacs also has one. I
have never,
however, seen an original one with the tag attached.
I have a couple of fishing buddies with their office in Collierville out
on the parkway.
Do you know them?
Kent
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 20:43:43 -0400
Subject: universal joints
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 20:57:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Re selling
BTW, I paid $2400 for my BJ8 in 1967, "used" with 600 miles on the odometer.
I sold it ten years later with 100,000 miles showing, for $2400. Wish I kept
it though.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 1:54 PM
To: I Erbs; Allen C Miller, Jr.
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re selling
In 1964 I bought a 1962 Mark II for $1800. I loved that car more than any of
the dozen or so LBC's I have owned over the years but I felt I should sell
it due to babies and the other costs of a growing family. I have always
regretted selling it and vowed someday to replace it with another of the
same year and model. Well, it took me forty years and $XX,000. to buy
another one but now I feel like I have come full circle. My wife of
forty-four years does not understand why I feel so attached to an inanimate
object like a car? Is this just a guy thing? Is there a cure?
James Lea, Happy in Maine.
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 21:50:52 EDT
Subject: Re: 100-m spark plugs
Bill Scannell
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From "Michael E. Williams" <michael.williams24 at comcast.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 23:02:48 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 Flywheel Removal
After much more prying the flywheel finally came off! Thanks to all. After
getting the rear mounting plate off I discovered a very deteriorated gasket
over the back of the engine. Moss lists the gasket as unavailable. Are these
available elsewhere or will I have to make one up?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 22:19:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Re selling
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
The Quoting Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net>:
> Oh James, there's no accounting for it at all!
>
> BTW, I paid $2400 for my BJ8 in 1967, "used" with 600 miles on the odometer.
> I sold it ten years later with 100,000 miles showing, for $2400. Wish I kept
> it though.
>
> == Alex in Maine
> 1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
> Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
> Amateur Radio AI2Q
> http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
>
> .-.-.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 1:54 PM
> To: I Erbs; Allen C Miller, Jr.
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Re selling
>
>
> In 1964 I bought a 1962 Mark II for $1800. I loved that car more than any of
> the dozen or so LBC's I have owned over the years but I felt I should sell
> it due to babies and the other costs of a growing family. I have always
> regretted selling it and vowed someday to replace it with another of the
> same year and model. Well, it took me forty years and $XX,000. to buy
> another one but now I feel like I have come full circle. My wife of
> forty-four years does not understand why I feel so attached to an inanimate
> object like a car? Is this just a guy thing? Is there a cure?
>
> James Lea, Happy in Maine.
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 23:30:39 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Interior Rivets
Dave
ynotink wrote:
>Check a leather working supplier. I wasn't able to find any black ones, but
>since I am concourse averse the brass ones I used look fine.
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>"Michael E. Williams" wrote:
>
>
>
>>Listers,
>>
>>Gary and Rogers book says that the battery cover straps and the spare tire
>>cover were secured with black painted rivets. Were these all of the same
>>type and size (i.e. tire cover and battery cover the same)? Are these
>>available anywhere?
>>
>>--Michael
>>'55 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 20:34:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: BN1 Flywheel Removal
The easy thing to do is buy the conversion gasket set
and that will have the gasket in it. The kit is
around $50 from moss, alternatively you can check with
hemphills or ahspares to see if they'll sell you just
the one gasket... but for my money I'd just get the
conversion set and replace some of the other gaskets
while I'm at it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Michael E. Williams"
<michael.williams24@comcast.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> After much more prying the flywheel finally came
> off! Thanks to all. After
> getting the rear mounting plate off I discovered a
> very deteriorated gasket
> over the back of the engine. Moss lists the gasket
> as unavailable. Are these
> available elsewhere or will I have to make one up?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 23:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Lever shock absorbers
Clyde Stutzman wrote:
>Could someone please recommend a good source for (rebuilt?) lever action
>shocks with competition valving?
>
>I know about Apple, but it seems there was another company in WI or MN or
>somewhere up there.
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 22:21:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Distributor interchangeability
There should not be any change in performance.
All the best
>Assuming that I am willing to accept some change in performance, will an
>early BN1 distributor (40320), with its driving spindle attached, fit my
>late BN2?
>
>Thanks, Gene
>
--
John Harper
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From "Bill Park" <bpark at ebtech.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 09:13:02 -0400
Subject: hiccup
Bill
BN1
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From <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 16:22:46 -0500
Subject: Tire sizes
I have 4 new wire wheels that I need to put tires on, for my 66 bj8 I was
hoping some one could give me some simple suggestions on what size tires, Im
open on brand, but lean towards Goodyear Eagles.
TIA
Willy
willy@thompsoncarpentry.com
www.thompsoncarpentry.com
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From "Terry Sprosson" <terry at tsprosson.freeserve.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 15:58:31 +0100
Subject: Lucas rear lamp
Thanks, Terry.
BN1
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 17:44:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire sizes
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <willy@thompsoncarpentry.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2003 4:22 PM
Subject: Tire sizes
> Hi, if this list is anything like the Spridget list, I am sure this topic
> has been discussed to wits end, and Im sorry for asking again, if it has.
>
> I have 4 new wire wheels that I need to put tires on, for my 66 bj8 I was
> hoping some one could give me some simple suggestions on what size tires,
Im
> open on brand, but lean towards Goodyear Eagles.
>
> TIA
> Willy
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From "Wm. Thompson" <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 18:41:26 -0500
Subject: RE: Lucas rear lamp
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Sprosson [mailto:terry@tsprosson.freeserve.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2003 9:59 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Lucas rear lamp
I have two types of Lucas rear lamp, both type 488. One has BS 2516 grade 1
moulded in, the other does not. Anyone any idea which would be correct for a
1955 BN1?
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From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 19:15:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas rear lamp
WORST POS anybody can have, WT!!!
Rick
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:09:52 -0400
Subject: Mail
tom
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:28:59 -0400
Subject: cold air box theory
allen miller
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:53:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Mail
> i'm getting very little mail from the Healey list------------is it that you
> guys have stopped writing or is there another spam problem?
>
>
Tom--
I got your mail from the list, but the volume does seem to be down. Of
course, there are a number of folks without power....
Best--Michael
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:58:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Mail
Steve
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:13:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Mail
Dave Russell
BN2
tom felts wrote:
> i'm getting very little mail from the Healey list------------is it that you
> guys have stopped writing or is there another spam problem?
>
> tom
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:34:19 -0600
Subject: Re: universal joints
Bill Lawrence
Dennis Broughel wrote:
> Dear list:
> Is napa a good source for U joints. Im trying to get the car ready
> for my first road trip 1and woiuld like to put new ones in before we go.
> I have a Longbridge Bn-4.
> Thanks in advance
> Dennis Broughel
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 21:14:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Mail
Alan
--- tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
> i'm getting very little mail from the Healey
> list------------is it that you
> guys have stopped writing or is there another spam
> problem?
>
> tom
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 00:39:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Mail
Steve
In a message dated 8/14/2003 8:04:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
d.carpenter7@verizon.net writes:
> Exactly right. I just got back from a beautiful evening cruise. Great
> weather with stars all around.
>
> Dave
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 07:57:19 -0400
Subject: universal joints
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:05:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Mail
Thanks for all the replies (got a two-for-one) reply--all replies came
duplicated. (?)
Anyway, all this "few" mail pieces came B4 the power outage so that
shouldn't have been the cause.
I also sub*scribe to the E-Type list, and I continue to get the "normal"
volumn from them.
As an example of my concern with the Healey mail, today I got a bunch of
"mail" responses, but only 2 that pertained to Healey-related mail. This
time it could have been the power failure, but ??????
Regards
Tom
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:19:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Mail
Steve
In a message dated 8/15/2003 5:09:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
tomfelts@earthlink.net writes:
> Thanks for all the replies (got a two-for-one) reply--all replies came
> duplicated. (?)
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 09:02:43 -0400
Subject: It was me.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 06:51:47 -0700
Subject: Re: It was me.
What are "rear axle plates?"
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 6:02 AM
Subject: It was me.
> Michael C. Salter
> BBD Engineering
> Better By Design
>
>
> I have been feeling really bad ever since I did it and hope that a
> confession to the group may help my mental state.
> It was me, I did it, I was drilling out the rear axle plates on AHX12
> using my big old 1/2" electric drill. I got all set up lying on a
> creeper with the drill in the first hole, pulled the trigger and .....
> puff all the lights went out.
> Sorry everyone, I won't do it again .... promise.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 07:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: It was me.
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> Michael C. Salter
> BBD Engineering
> Better By Design
>
>
> I have been feeling really bad ever since I did it
> and hope that a
> confession to the group may help my mental state.
> It was me, I did it, I was drilling out the rear
> axle plates on AHX12
> using my big old 1/2" electric drill. I got all set
> up lying on a
> creeper with the drill in the first hole, pulled the
> trigger and .....
> puff all the lights went out.
> Sorry everyone, I won't do it again .... promise.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:03:59 -0700
Subject: RE: It was me.
-----Original Message-----
Michael C. Salter
BBD Engineering
Better By Design
I have been feeling really bad ever since I did it and hope that a
confession to the group may help my mental state.
It was me, I did it, I was drilling out the rear axle plates on AHX12
using my big old 1/2" electric drill. I got all set up lying on a
creeper with the drill in the first hole, pulled the trigger and .....
puff all the lights went out.
Sorry everyone, I won't do it again .... promise.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 11:04:55 -0400
Subject: Re: It was me.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>; "'Healeys'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: It was me.
| Those darned Chinese-made power tools!
|
| --- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
| wrote:
| > Michael C. Salter
| > BBD Engineering
| > Better By Design
| >
| >
| > I have been feeling really bad ever since I did it
| > and hope that a
| > confession to the group may help my mental state.
| > It was me, I did it, I was drilling out the rear
| > axle plates on AHX12
| > using my big old 1/2" electric drill. I got all set
| > up lying on a
| > creeper with the drill in the first hole, pulled the
| > trigger and .....
| > puff all the lights went out.
| > Sorry everyone, I won't do it again .... promise.
| >
| > Mike Salter
| > www.precisionsportscar.com
|
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:19:19 -0700
Subject: Re: It was me.
Thought that might be the case, although we really didn't notice out
west -----------------!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 6:02 AM
Subject: It was me.
Michael C. Salter
BBD Engineering
Better By Design
I have been feeling really bad ever since I did it and hope that a
confession to the group may help my mental state.
It was me, I did it, I was drilling out the rear axle plates on AHX12
using my big old 1/2" electric drill. I got all set up lying on a
creeper with the drill in the first hole, pulled the trigger and .....
puff all the lights went out.
Sorry everyone, I won't do it again .... promise.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 09:14:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Mail
When I want to respond to an indivual but want The List to see it also, I
send it as a Reply (not Reply All) but I delete the indiviual's name/address
and insert The List's address in the 'To' block. Then I start the message
with the recipients name: "Tom: In response......".
I feel better now. Thanks.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Mail
> You only get one copy of this...when I "reply" the mail goes to you. To
post
> to the list I have to "Reply All", which sends mail to you and the list,
and
> then delete you from the "send to" box. You are getting this from the
list.
>
> Steve
>
> In a message dated 8/15/2003 5:09:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> tomfelts@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Thanks for all the replies (got a two-for-one) reply--all replies came
> > duplicated. (?)
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sasktel.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 11:33:50 -0500
Subject: Computer and List question
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From "m l" <h3000bn7 at hotmail.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:08:47 -0700
Subject: ideal car jack
Can anyone suggest a good car jack that's tried and true- that's small,
safe, will fit below the car in the event of a flat tire, and can be stored
easily in the trunk?. Also, it would be great if it could be used with a
block of wood (or something sim.) as to not damage the frame of the car.
Currently I carry around my 2.4 ton Jack from sears which wont do me a whole
lot of good if i get a flat and its pretty big.
Please supply jack brand, model #, and where it can be purchased if
possible.
Thanks,
Mark
Venice, CA
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 14:01:22 -0600
Subject: Newburn Hall Motor Museum-No Healey Content
Regards
Ross Maylor
Calgary Canada
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From "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996 at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:45:55 -0400
Subject: 100M cold air box on ebay
Dallas Congleton
1967 HBJ8L/41193
1953 MGTD/25937
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:24:44 -0500
Subject: Which Automobile issue is the BT7 in?
Please respond to bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks in advance,
Brian Collins
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:26:09 -0500
Subject: Tire pressures
Please respond directly to bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks,
Brian Collins
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 22:29:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Newburn Hall Motor Museum-No Healey Content
NAME: Newburn Hall Motor Museum.
ADDRESS: 35 Townfield Gardens, Newburn, Tyne .. Wear,
NE15 8PY, England.
TEL NUMBER: 0191 264 2977.
Not the easiest museums to find, but once found it is certainly worth
visiting. The museum is housed in a building originally built by the Duke of
Northumberland and used by the Territorial Army from 1924.
It was acquired in 1979 to become a motor museum and after extensive
refurbishment has become a firm favourite with enthusiasts. It consists of a
private collection of about 50 vehicles on display, a mixture of mainly
British cars from various periods. The display hall is bright and makes
photography easy, there is no restrictive access to the vehicles so the
visitor can get a close examination of the exhibits.
Notes: To find the museum travel west from Newcastle on the A690, turn off at
the exit for Newburn, travel along Newburn Road turning left after the police
station. Turn left again to the end of the road and the museum is located on
the right at the end of a cul-de-sac. Disabled access is provided, limited
parking and a bar and buffet lounge is avaHable. Opening times are
Tuesday-Sunday 10.00-18.00 hours but they are closed on Mondays unless a bank
holiday.
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Maylor" <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 9:01 PM
Subject: Newburn Hall Motor Museum-No Healey Content
> Gents
> I will be visiting Newcastle Upon Tyne in September and would like to know
if
> anyone would recommend this motor museum for a visit.
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:30:00 -0500
Subject: Suggestions for replacement tires.
Please respond off list or copy me at bc1@sbcglobal.net
Thanks, Brian Collins
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:28:52 -0500
Subject: Re: 100M cold air box on ebay
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dallas Congleton" <dcong996@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 3:45 PM
Subject: 100M cold air box on ebay
ebay item number 2428244082 is an "original " cold air box - WITH RIVETS for
those interested.
Dallas Congleton
1967 HBJ8L/41193
1953 MGTD/25937
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from the Inbox folder that messages addressed to me go into, and is set up
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 16:20:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Mail
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: Mail
> I am certainly no computer expert but I have wanted to comment on this
> several times in the past when people have mentioned getting two duplicate
> messages. When I look at the message, I note that the sender has
addressed
> it to both the individual and The List. Since the recipient is on the
list,
> he will, of course, receive the message twice - one to him individually
and
> one through his List membership.
>
> When I want to respond to an indivual but want The List to see it also, I
> send it as a Reply (not Reply All) but I delete the indiviual's
name/address
> and insert The List's address in the 'To' block. Then I start the message
> with the recipients name: "Tom: In response......".
>
> I feel better now. Thanks.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 19:25:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Which Automobile issue is the BT7 in?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 5:24 PM
Subject: Which Automobile issue is the BT7 in?
> There was mention of a BT7 having sold at auction recently for $60K+ and
> that it was documented in the current Automobile magazine. I went and
> bought the magazine but cant find it. Can someone tell me which issue and
> the page number please.
>
> Please respond to bc1@sbcglobal.net
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Brian Collins
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 18:58:07 -0500
Subject: Old Moss catalog in PDF format
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From kate oleary <kaoleary at comcast.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 19:55:20 -0500
Subject: bj8 wheel question
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 21:26:13 -0400
Subject: Re: It was me.
Allen Miller
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 23:37:06 EDT
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 21:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Overheating - Texas Cooler
I like the plastic blades as I once had a stock four bladed fan break
while showing off red line roaring by my college fraternity house while
a back yard kegger was going on. I still have a slit in the lower
crossmember . . . really lucky it did no other damage. Sure shook
unbalanced though with only three blades.
An added benefit is the lack of fan noise. Just a neat Healey roar
without that metal propeller beating the air.
The fan is a flexible plastic fan I believe made by Hayden. Probably
fits some regular car. The Texas Club did the reearch and they fit
first time. Give them the money.
I just left mine off-white plastic. I had to loosen the radiator and
tilt it forward too get it over the nose of the water pump, but my car
had a front clip at one time so it isn't straight. It is supposed to
have been a simple bolt on.
With the engine idling and the hood up, the fan will blow pages of a
shop manual set on the fender. It really works.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Visalia, California
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 21:47:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: "It Was Me" and/or "Mail"
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 22:05:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Old Moss catalog in PDF format
Does anyone have a copy of the old Moss Healey catalog in acrobat format
(PDF) that they could email me. As I am starting to look at cars, I want
one for a reference.
Thanks
Patton
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 22:10:01 -0700
Subject: High-Speed Hesitation
My BJ8 has developed a slight hesitation/stumble on acceleration. It seems
to start at 3,000 RPM and is most noticable in second gear (i.e. high speed,
not a lot of load on the engine). It seemed to come on suddenly, and seems
to improve just slightly if I enrichen the carbs quite a bit. I've swapped in
a
new fuel pump--meant to do that anyway--with no change.
I know I need to do the usual diagnostics, just wondering if anyone cares to
speculate. I am running a Pertronix--otherwise the first thing I'd suspect is
the
points--but it's been flawless since installed.
This isn't a major, occasional miss like bad points will sometimes cause, just
the slightest hesitation and it always starts right at 3,000 RPM.
Timing? Advance?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 05:23:13 EDT
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 05:14:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Overheating - Texas Cooler
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 06:35:38 EDT
Subject: Re: High-Speed Hesitation
Good Luck,
Larry Wysocki
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 04:57:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: High-Speed Hesitation
Do you use a fuel filter ? If so, have you changed it
in a while? Maybe it's clogged. Also check your
float chambers to see if they are full of fuel.. if
not it's clogged fuel filter or bad float jet.
Your coil may also be going bad... also check rotor,
cap and wires...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> My BJ8 has developed a slight hesitation/stumble on
> acceleration. It seems
> to start at 3,000 RPM and is most noticable in
> second gear (i.e. high speed,
> not a lot of load on the engine). It seemed to come
> on suddenly, and seems
> to improve just slightly if I enrichen the carbs
> quite a bit. I've swapped in a
> new fuel pump--meant to do that anyway--with no
> change.
>
> I know I need to do the usual diagnostics, just
> wondering if anyone cares to
> speculate. I am running a Pertronix--otherwise the
> first thing I'd suspect is the
> points--but it's been flawless since installed.
>
> This isn't a major, occasional miss like bad points
> will sometimes cause, just
> the slightest hesitation and it always starts right
> at 3,000 RPM.
>
> Timing? Advance?
>
> bs
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
>
*****************************************************
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 08:46:05 -0500
Subject: Re: High-Speed Hesitation
K-I-S-S
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 12:10 AM
Subject: High-Speed Hesitation
> Listers,
>
> My BJ8 has developed a slight hesitation/stumble on acceleration. It
seems
> to start at 3,000 RPM and is most noticable in second gear (i.e. high
speed,
> not a lot of load on the engine). It seemed to come on suddenly, and
seems
> to improve just slightly if I enrichen the carbs quite a bit. I've
swapped in a
> new fuel pump--meant to do that anyway--with no change.
>
> I know I need to do the usual diagnostics, just wondering if anyone cares
to
> speculate. I am running a Pertronix--otherwise the first thing I'd
suspect is the
> points--but it's been flawless since installed.
>
> This isn't a major, occasional miss like bad points will sometimes cause,
just
> the slightest hesitation and it always starts right at 3,000 RPM.
>
> Timing? Advance?
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 09:57:17 EDT
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Not very exotic, but I have a couple of scissors jacks from 1970 vintage
Datsuns. When collapsed, they are about as low as you can get, and they have a
halfway decent sized bearing plate.
As an associated problem, this being in the garage as opposed to a road
emergency, is there a floor jack made that can be used to pick up the
differential
in one grab, instead of having to jack up the frame first?
Dick Hosmer
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 07:19:48 -0700
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/displayitem_retail.taf?Itemnumber=47246
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <h3000bn7@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
> List:
>
> Not very exotic, but I have a couple of scissors jacks from 1970 vintage
> Datsuns. When collapsed, they are about as low as you can get, and they have
>a
> halfway decent sized bearing plate.
>
> As an associated problem, this being in the garage as opposed to a road
> emergency, is there a floor jack made that can be used to pick up the
>differential
> in one grab, instead of having to jack up the frame first?
>
> Dick Hosmer
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 11:19:10 EDT
Subject: BJ7 For Sale
1964 BJ7 red with black interior and red piping. Excellent original
condition. 51,000 miles. Located in Cincinnati, Ohio. $28,000 or best
reasonalble
offer. Contact Bernie Grabow at 513.474-0355 at home or 513-763-1935 at office.
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 11:31:35 EDT
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Dick
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 12:05:33 -0400
Subject: Borrani Wheels - Austin Healey 3000 /Ferrari? Item
I'd get in on these, but I just bought a new set of painted 5.5" wheels from
Dennis Welch (which are very nice although obviously not as showy.
The seller says rims are aluminum, but I don't know if they were aluminum or
magnesium.
allen miller bn2/m
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 11:34:33 -0500
Subject: Test
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 10:59:35 -0600
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Dave Russell
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks, but I'll have to take some measurements. It is not entirely a problem
> of getting the jack under the diff, but more one of being able to move the
> handle after you do. What is needed is a jack with substantial distance
>between
> the lift point and the handle pivot.
>
> Dick
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 11:10:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Overheating - Texas Cooler
Peter is right on the mark! Between the Texas C(k)ooler and the correct sleeved
thermostat from David Nock, this combination lets my BJ8 run at a cool 162 -
163 F - but unfortunately
the car lacks Michael Oritt's cockpit insulation thus one has to resort to
very, very light attire to keep cool in this 30-36 C weather we've been having
in the great white north
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Jerry Wall wrote:
> an unsolicited testimonial from another satisfied healey driver !! thanks.
>note the analogy in the last paragraph -- some have referenced "blowing the
>chrome off a trailer hitch".
> Pete Cowper wrote:
> >
> > I put a Texas cooler fan on my 1960 BT7 about 10 years ago. It used to
> > climb up to 212 at stop lights in the summer, now it will sit at 190 on
> > a 100 degree day at a traffic light. I would say it has made a 20
> > degree difference in the summer both in town and out on the road.
> >
> > I like the plastic blades as I once had a stock four bladed fan break
> > while showing off red line roaring by my college fraternity house while
> > a back yard kegger was going on. I still have a slit in the lower
> > crossmember . . . really lucky it did no other damage. Sure shook
> > unbalanced though with only three blades.
> >
> > An added benefit is the lack of fan noise. Just a neat Healey roar
> > without that metal propeller beating the air.
> >
> > The fan is a flexible plastic fan I believe made by Hayden. Probably
> > fits some regular car. The Texas Club did the reearch and they fit
> > first time. Give them the money.
> >
> > I just left mine off-white plastic. I had to loosen the radiator and
> > tilt it forward too get it over the nose of the water pump, but my car
> > had a front clip at one time so it isn't straight. It is supposed to
> > have been a simple bolt on.
> >
> > With the engine idling and the hood up, the fan will blow pages of a
> > shop manual set on the fender. It really works.
> >
> > Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
> > Visalia, California
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 16:11:16 -0700
Subject: Crappy Rotors
Just got one out of two DOA out of the box (I know, that's redundant).
Lucas brand ... I had hoped they were better.
Anybody found a definitive solution to this problem?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 19:49:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Overheating - Texas Cooler
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 18:36:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
Are you sure it's not your dist. cap? The little
carbon contact can go bad, and there's no way to check
it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Man, can't believe the (distributor) rotors that are
> being foisted on us.
>
> Just got one out of two DOA out of the box (I know,
> that's redundant).
> Lucas brand ... I had hoped they were better.
>
> Anybody found a definitive solution to this problem?
>
>
> bs
>
*****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
> PP/ASEL
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 22:41:22 -0700
Subject: Batt for BN7, BN1, BN2
The Q arises from time to time on using a single 12v batt for the BN7, BN1, or
BN2. I went to one a couple years ago in my BN7 resto, but it is a bit of a
pain to get the info on it when someone wants some specs.
Well, I had to change the fuel filter (added it right next to the pump) so the
spare had to come out and the hatch opened up. So I will share the info on
the batt I used.
ProStart (purchased at Advance Auto I think)
size 26R 75
6.5 wide
8.125 long
6.625 high
nothing on it about CCA but it is around 650 as I recall
Email me with any further Qs
Keith Pennell
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 20:05:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Man, can't believe the (distributor) rotors that are being foisted on us.
>
> Just got one out of two DOA out of the box (I know, that's redundant).
> Lucas brand ... I had hoped they were better.
>
> Anybody found a definitive solution to this problem?
>
>
> bs
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 20:50:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
www.holden.co.uk
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
> FWIW, I was browsing the Holden's catalog and noticed they (appear)
> to have the rotor with the plastic plug instead of the brass rivet (if you've
> been following the various rotor problem threads you know what I mean).
>
>
> bs
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> > Man, can't believe the (distributor) rotors that are being foisted on us.
> >
> > Just got one out of two DOA out of the box (I know, that's redundant).
> > Lucas brand ... I had hoped they were better.
> >
> > Anybody found a definitive solution to this problem?
> >
> >
> > bs
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 21:53:52 -0700
Subject: Brake Servos
Just wondering if anybody's car has the Girling MK2B servo. This is the
one with the crimp band. The only reference I have to it is in the Victoria
British catalog ... they claim it was installed on BJ8-25400-On, and retrofitted
to earlier cars (don't think I've ever seen one on ANY Healey). Anyway, my
(repro) parts manual only shows the MK2 and MK2A (on 25400 on). However,
the Moss catalog does allude to a "piston ball" (for a checkvalve) for cars
25400 on, but the only model I believe had this check valve was the MK2B
(I've recently taken both a MK2A and MK2B apart, and only the MK2B
has the check valve).
Any real experts out there can shed some light on this? The MK2 and MK2A
are identical except for the size and mounting of the air filter (the MK2 had a
clip-on cover and the MK2A&B have a screw-in cover for the filter). The MK2
and 2A have a vacuum canister that is "bolted" on, and therefore easier to
rebuild.
The MK2B's body is a little longer, has the checkvalve, a different main piston
assembly and of course the crimp band (which seals a rubber bellows instead
of the the leather/foam rubber seal on the older models).
Interesting "evolution;" looks like the bean-counters were trying to save a few
pence on each subsequent model.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 23:41:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Brake Servos
Greg
-----Original Message-----
Been doing a lot of research on brake servos (thanks for all the help
people).
Just wondering if anybody's car has the Girling MK2B servo. This is the
one with the crimp band. The only reference I have to it is in the Victoria
British catalog ... they claim it was installed on BJ8-25400-On, and
retrofitted
to earlier cars (don't think I've ever seen one on ANY Healey). Anyway, my
(repro) parts manual only shows the MK2 and MK2A (on 25400 on). However,
the Moss catalog does allude to a "piston ball" (for a checkvalve) for cars
25400 on, but the only model I believe had this check valve was the MK2B
(I've recently taken both a MK2A and MK2B apart, and only the MK2B
has the check valve).
Any real experts out there can shed some light on this? The MK2 and MK2A
are identical except for the size and mounting of the air filter (the MK2
had a
clip-on cover and the MK2A&B have a screw-in cover for the filter). The MK2
and 2A have a vacuum canister that is "bolted" on, and therefore easier to
rebuild.
The MK2B's body is a little longer, has the checkvalve, a different main
piston
assembly and of course the crimp band (which seals a rubber bellows instead
of the the leather/foam rubber seal on the older models).
Interesting "evolution;" looks like the bean-counters were trying to save a
few
pence on each subsequent model.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 09:15:56 -0400
Subject: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
Miles_________________
Time_________________
Thanks
Tom
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 12:12:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SOL Healey web site
The SOL web site is one of the earliest and neatest web sites around. It's
good that you have
been given access to maintain it. Is there anything we on the list can do to
help you?
Once again, thank you - I have only a glimer of an idea of the time and effort
it takes.
--Scott Morris
--- Bob Haskell <bhaskell@iquest.net> wrote: << Folks, mjb has kindly given me
access to the SOL
healey web pages (http://www.team.net/www/healey).
So far -
- I've updated the list of books in the automobila section. Have added an
errata sheet from
Gary Anderson for Gary and Roger Moment's restoration book.
- fixed or removed the broken links. All the articles in the tech section
should be accessible.
- the calendar of events is still out of date.
Things I'd like to do:
- an article on rebuilding the trafficator.
- finish the horn rebuilding article.
- convert Bill Emerson's model listing to a database with pictures and update
the contents.
- create an electronic version of the Lucas Workshop Instructions. Got to find
them first.
Comments, suggestions, and/or material would be appreciated.
Thanks, Bob Haskell >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 14:59:18 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
Mal
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From Bill Rister <brister at houston.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 15:01:56 -0500
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter -- leaks!!
Bill Rister
'60 BT7 '61 AN5
Tysonoxford@aol.com wrote:
>Hi Graham,
>I bought two from Sports & Classics in New England about 5 years ago. When my
>mechanic mounted the filter and started the car it blew oil everywhere, my
>mechanic says the threads are too short. I called them and got the usual" we
>sell loads of these with no problem so it must be your fault", don't have the
>nerve to risk my engine with another try and still have the other one for my
>MGC
>in the box. Careful whos' you buy.
>
>Mal
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 13:05:08 -0700
Subject: Leaking Carb Question
Does it sound like the jet assembly diaphragm has a leak? Any other
possiblities? I guess I have to remove the carb from the manifold to check
this out? I've never been inside a SU carb. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 16:17:13 -0400
Subject: Re: bj8 wheel question
I'm not sure exactly whether you are asking about the torque for the rear
axle/spring u-bolts, or the nuts that attach the splined hub to the rear brake
drum. If the latter are loose, then the wheel can wobble, can wear out the
stud threads, and possibly a wheel can even come off. The correct torque for
the splined hub adapter nuts is 40 lb-ft. After torquing these, I paint a
stripe on each nut that continues onto the adjacent surface of the hub
adapter. I can see these stripes through the wheel spokes (they are not
really visible unless you look for them, and so are inconspicuous), and can
easily tell if the nuts ever loosen because the stripes will become
misaligned. I use nail polish to paint the stripes.
The workshop manual does not specify a torque for the rear axle/spring u-bolt,
but the diameter of the u-bolt is 3/8 inch, and thread is NF 24. The
correct torque depends on what the exact material of the u-bolt is, which also
is not specified, but I would assume that it would be equivalent to at least a
Grade 5 bolt. Using that info, there are standard torque calculators on the
internet that will let you select the appropriate torque. One example of this
is at:
http://www.wurthindustry.com/Calculators.nsf/USTorqueCalculator?OpenForm
Using this calculator, we get for:
Grade 5
3/8-24
Zinc (dry)
Torque = 52 lb-ft
Grade 8
3/18-24
Zinc (dry)
Torque = 73 lb-ft
The nuts are supposed to be self-locking. I would go with the lower torque
for Grade 5, 3/8-24 threads and see how that works. If it fixes the problem,
great. If not, go to the higher torque.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: kate oleary
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: Susan
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 8:55 PM
Subject: bj8 wheel question
I have friends with a 67 BJ8, and they need to know what the torque
setting is for tightening the rear wheel u-bolts. The bolts are so
loose that the rear wheel has developed a noticeable wobble (they arent
driving it in this condition). Anyone have that measurement? Thanks!
Kate
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 16:23:20 -0400
Subject: Paging Joe Costa
Thanks,
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 09:37:05 +0100
Subject: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
Best regards
Peter Lovewell
BJ7 Essex England
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 16:55:05 -0400
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
I use a scissors jack from an '80s to '90s Chrysler K-car (I know a '92 Dodge
Spirit also uses this jack). Maybe you can find one of these in a junkyard.
It's light, collapses down to just a couple inches high, and I use it with a
piece of 2 x 4 to protect the lift points of the car. I keep one in my Healey
toolkit in the boot, and one in the garage along with the Sears floorjack. It
gets low enough to go under the frame with a flat tire on the car.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: m l
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 3:08 PM
Subject: ideal car jack
Dear Listers,
Can anyone suggest a good car jack that's tried and true- that's small,
safe, will fit below the car in the event of a flat tire, and can be stored
easily in the trunk?. Also, it would be great if it could be used with a
block of wood (or something sim.) as to not damage the frame of the car.
Currently I carry around my 2.4 ton Jack from sears which wont do me a whole
lot of good if i get a flat and its pretty big.
Please supply jack brand, model #, and where it can be purchased if
possible.
Thanks,
Mark
Venice, CA
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 17:12:33 -0400
Subject: Primo car jack
Jim D
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 17:32:43 -0400
Subject: RE: ideal car jack
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: 17-Aug-03 4:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Hi, Mark -
I use a scissors jack from an '80s to '90s Chrysler K-car (I know a '92
Dodge
Spirit also uses this jack). Maybe you can find one of these in a
junkyard.
It's light, collapses down to just a couple inches high, and I use it
with a
piece of 2 x 4 to protect the lift points of the car. I keep one in my
Healey
toolkit in the boot, and one in the garage along with the Sears
floorjack. It
gets low enough to go under the frame with a flat tire on the car.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: m l
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 3:08 PM
Subject: ideal car jack
Dear Listers,
Can anyone suggest a good car jack that's tried and true- that's
small,
safe, will fit below the car in the event of a flat tire, and can be
stored
easily in the trunk?. Also, it would be great if it could be used
with a
block of wood (or something sim.) as to not damage the frame of the
car.
Currently I carry around my 2.4 ton Jack from sears which wont do me a
whole
lot of good if i get a flat and its pretty big.
Please supply jack brand, model #, and where it can be purchased if
possible.
Thanks,
Mark
Venice, CA
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 17:54:51 -0400
Subject: Dashboard harness grounds
The wiring diagram seems to show the gauges being grounded. Do the gauges
themselves need to be grounded somehow?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:03:12 -0400
Subject: RE: ideal car jack
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Brouillette [mailto:m.brouillette@comcast.net]
Sent: 17-Aug-03 5:53 PM
To: 'Michael Salter'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: ideal car jack
I helped a group of folks on the side of the highway that had that same
issue about a year ago. They tried to lift a midsize car with a scissor
jack lifting the whole back end of the car. When I got to them, the car
had
started to slide off the jack and off the road down a hill. Four of
them
were on the sliding side on a downward hill trying to hold the car from
sliding. I ended up getting my SUV on that side to hold the car so they
could get out and wouldn't get run down by the car as it slid down the
hill.
People do stupid things some times...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:41:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dashboard harness grounds
These attach to the guages on the long machine
threaded studs coming out on the back of the guages.
Put it on the stud and then put the thumb nut on and
cinch it down. Each guage should have a ground
wire... although for a BN4 it may only be a couple of
them...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I installed my dash today, and while connecting the
> new wiring harness to the
> switches/instruments, I've discovered a couple of
> 'leftover' wires. They're
> both black ground wires and both have ring
> connectors. Where do these attach?
>
> The wiring diagram seems to show the gauges being
> grounded. Do the gauges
> themselves need to be grounded somehow?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:45:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Leaking Carb Question
Your jet diaphram is probably leaking and the fuel
pump is pumping the gas out through the leak.
Your only choice is to pull the carb off and replace
the diaphram. It's actually a pretty easy job, a
shorty ratcheting 'gearwrench' to get the mount bolts
off the rear carb will make it even easier. I can
usually dismount carbs off a healey in less than 10
minutes... get it back on in 15.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net> wrote:
> Smelled gas all the way home from taking the wife up
> to Sonoma Square for
> lunch. Pulled into the garage opened the hood and
> notice a steady drip of gas
> coming out of the rear carb (HD6) right over the
> down pipes. It's coming out
> where the jet housing assembly attaches to the main
> carb body above. I
> checked the four screws that fasten it to the carb
> body and they are all
> tight.
>
> Does it sound like the jet assembly diaphragm has a
> leak? Any other
> possiblities? I guess I have to remove the carb
> from the manifold to check
> this out? I've never been inside a SU carb. Any
> suggestions? Thanks.
>
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 21:41:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Leaking Carb Question
Good Luck and Get some Help, Mark
> John -
>
> Your jet diaphram is probably leaking and the fuel
> pump is pumping the gas out through the leak.
>
> Your only choice is to pull the carb off and replace
> the diaphram. It's actually a pretty easy job, a
> shorty ratcheting 'gearwrench' to get the mount bolts
> off the rear carb will make it even easier. I can
> usually dismount carbs off a healey in less than 10
> minutes... get it back on in 15.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 21:49:00 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
If everything that went in was Good and it was put together Good then why
shouldn't it work Good. Excuse my grammar, just trying to make my point
Good.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Lovewell <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 3:37 AM
Subject: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
> Hi all
> I have recently had my gearbox rebuilt by a local company and on its
return I
> am finding the sincro is not working when changing down from 3rd to 2nd.
To
> avoid crashes from the box I have to apply pressure with the gear lever
for
> perhaps 2 to 3 seconds before easing it into 2nd and this usually works
but
> not always, depending on road speed etc. The company have said that it is
> probably due to the new sincro not a perfect fit and that I should
continue to
> use it for a further 500 miles to see if that beds it in. The question is,
am
> I being fobbed off or could the sincro improve with use?
>
> Best regards
>
> Peter Lovewell
> BJ7 Essex England
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 22:57:08 EDT
Subject: Healey Values thru the roof
That would be harder to believe if there weren't a few E-types sold there
that cracked the $100k barrier. Where's the top? Continuing economic
recession?
You wouldn't have thought so at RM.
Cheers
gary
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 20:09:43 -0700
Subject: A pain in the seat
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:18:28 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
> I heard of 500 miles wearing out bad syncros but 500 miles wearing in good
> sycros. Come on, somethings out of sync here.
>
> If everything that went in was Good and it was put together Good then why
> shouldn't it work Good. Excuse my grammar, just trying to make my point
> Good.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Lovewell <Lovewell@talk21.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 3:37 AM
> Subject: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
>
>
> >Hi all
> >I have recently had my gearbox rebuilt by a local company and on its
> return I
> >am finding the sincro is not working when changing down from 3rd to 2nd.
> To
> >avoid crashes from the box I have to apply pressure with the gear lever
> for
> >perhaps 2 to 3 seconds before easing it into 2nd and this usually works
> but
> >not always, depending on road speed etc. The company have said that it is
> >probably due to the new sincro not a perfect fit and that I should
> continue to
> >use it for a further 500 miles to see if that beds it in. The question is,
> am
> >I being fobbed off or could the sincro improve with use?
> >
> >Best regards
> >
> >Peter Lovewell
> >BJ7 Essex England
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:23:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Dashboard harness grounds
These ground wires go on the threaded studs on two of the gauges. Does not
particularly matter which ones. The ground wires ground through the large U
shaped brackets which ground to the Al dash panel which grounds to the
scuttle etc.
Keith Pennell
> I installed my dash today, and while connecting the new wiring harness to
the
> switches/instruments, I've discovered a couple of 'leftover' wires.
They're
> both black ground wires and both have ring connectors. Where do these
attach?
>
> The wiring diagram seems to show the gauges being grounded. Do the gauges
> themselves need to be grounded somehow?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 22:40:30 -0500
Subject: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
66 427 Cobra replica (Fiberglass body built from scratch. Never attempt this!!!)
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:44:32 EDT
Subject: MN Healey sighting
Don Lenschow
North Texas AH Club
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:15:55 -0500
Subject: Re: MN Healey sighting
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 23:03:45 -0600
Subject: Re: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
I use a dummy shaft for things like this. A shaft that is just a little
smaller in od than the layshaft & just long enough to go inside the
case. Stack the rollers washers & such in the laygear with the dummy
shaft in place, put gear & shaft in case & carefully push the layshaft
through. The dummy shaft will push out the end as you go.
Dave Russell
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> By the way, if anyone has a good way of getting the laygear in place after
> installing the loaded mainshaft I'd love to hear it. I did a BJ-8 box this
> weekend (it sucked!!!) and I have two more to go and need some helpful hints
>on
> getting the laygear back up from the bottom of the box with all of the
>bearings
> and washers and getting it into place. Thanks.
>
> Randy Dickson
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 02:22:57 -0500
Subject: Re: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
Please warn us ahead of time if you intend to try and sell these on
Ebay.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 10:40 PM
Subject: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
> Hello all,
> I'm in the middle of rebuilding a few gearboxes, one side shift for my
friend
> Karl who has a BT-7 and two centershifts, one BJ-7 and one BJ-8. Anyway,
we
> are looking to trade a non overdrive mainshaft for a shorter overdrive
> mainshaft. The long non O/D mainshaft that we have is in nice shape. We
also
> have the tailpice that came with it. We would like to trade for it for
one
> shorter mainshaft in nice shape as well. Let me know if you are
interested.
> We will also have a lot of other spare gearbox stuff to unload once we are
> through rebuilding these.
> By the way, if anyone has a good way of getting the laygear in place after
> installing the loaded mainshaft I'd love to hear it. I did a BJ-8 box
this
> weekend (it sucked!!!) and I have two more to go and need some helpful
hints on
> getting the laygear back up from the bottom of the box with all of the
bearings
> and washers and getting it into place. Thanks.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
> 66 427 Cobra replica (Fiberglass body built from scratch. Never attempt
this!!!)
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 02:02:07 -0500
Subject: Re: A pain in the seat
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 10:09 PM
Subject: A pain in the seat
> As it seems some of us are at the same stage of restoration, I thought I
> would pass along an experience I had today. I decided to get new seat
rails
> after seeing how rusty the old ones were. The new rails were galvanized
> (good), including the bolt threads (bad). I decided instead of just
cranking
> the nuts on I would chase the threads with a die. What a pain, the die
gets
> all gummed up with the soft metal. On one thread, the weld on the bolt
> broke. Of course it was one of the middle bolts so I had to disassemble
the
> entire rail to re-weld the bolt on in order to get the die off. I was
lucky
> that the weld didn't pop while I was bolting the rail in place. Trying to
> disassemble with the rail still bolted to the car would have been a lot
> worse. Just something to think about when (if) you get to that point.
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
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From "ukhealey_GRADWELL" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 08:51:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 07:12:38 -0400
Subject: RE: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
You will find that if you roll the gearbox on its side or even a little
further the laygear will fall into place a lot more easily.
Gravity doesn't always suck to disadvantage.!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: 17-Aug-03 11:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
Hello all,
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a few gearboxes, one side shift for my
friend
Karl who has a BT-7 and two centershifts, one BJ-7 and one BJ-8.
Anyway, we
are looking to trade a non overdrive mainshaft for a shorter overdrive
mainshaft. The long non O/D mainshaft that we have is in nice shape.
We also
have the tailpice that came with it. We would like to trade for it for
one
shorter mainshaft in nice shape as well. Let me know if you are
interested.
We will also have a lot of other spare gearbox stuff to unload once we
are
through rebuilding these.
By the way, if anyone has a good way of getting the laygear in place
after
installing the loaded mainshaft I'd love to hear it. I did a BJ-8 box
this
weekend (it sucked!!!) and I have two more to go and need some helpful
hints on
getting the laygear back up from the bottom of the box with all of the
bearings
and washers and getting it into place. Thanks.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
66 427 Cobra replica (Fiberglass body built from scratch. Never attempt
this!!!)
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 07:16:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL.
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 10:57 PM
Subject: Healey Values thru the roof
> Well, now Kurt Tanner's gone and done it again! After selling the Healey
this
> spring that got the mention by Keith Martin in Automobile, he sold another
> one of his restorations, this time a BJ8 at RM in Monterey last night, for
(I
> think this number is right; if wrong it's just missing the commission or a
few
> dollars) $82,000!
>
> That would be harder to believe if there weren't a few E-types sold there
> that cracked the $100k barrier. Where's the top? Continuing economic
recession?
> You wouldn't have thought so at RM.
>
> Cheers
> gary
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 07:08:41 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell@talk21.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 2:37 AM
Subject: BJ7 rebuilt gearbox
> Hi all
> I have recently had my gearbox rebuilt by a local company and on its
return I
> am finding the sincro is not working when changing down from 3rd to 2nd.
To
> avoid crashes from the box I have to apply pressure with the gear lever
for
> perhaps 2 to 3 seconds before easing it into 2nd and this usually works
but
> not always, depending on road speed etc. The company have said that it is
> probably due to the new sincro not a perfect fit and that I should
continue to
> use it for a further 500 miles to see if that beds it in. The question is,
am
> I being fobbed off or could the sincro improve with use?
>
> Best regards
>
> Peter Lovewell
> BJ7 Essex England
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 08:20:10 -0500
Subject: BJ7 hose questions - heater and PCV system
-are the (small) heater hoses just off-the-shelf water hose from an auto
parts store? If so, what diameter? Moss doesn't list them as an
available part.
-my breather hose from the sump and top of the valve cover doesn't
connect to anything - Should it, in theory, connect to one of the air
cleaners (I have aftermarket cleaners, not originals)? Does the
consequent lack of vacuum result in a sludge buildup in the sump or
valve area)?
Thanks all.
Graham
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:12:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
<< Gary...for anyone who knows the true cost of professional restoration
today,
of any marquee, the BJ & RM auction prices are not surprising.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL.
'67 BJ8 >>
The difference is that Healeys, until very recently, couldn't fetch
professional prices, so most restorations were home-grown hobby-quality. Now
for the
first time, people who pay to get the work done professionally have an
opportunity to get most of their money back if they have to sell immediately.
HOWEVER,
one of our auction observers pointed out the Monterey phenomenon, as observed
with XK-Es. Interest starts to rise, and only a few of the marque are
available for sale at Monterey, so prices go through the roof. The next year
everyone brings their XK-E for sale, and prices go back to normal, so the year
after
no one brings their car. Prices go back up. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:31:20 -0400
Subject: Re: looking to trade a non O/D mainshaft for O/D mainshaft
>By the way, if anyone has a good way of getting the laygear in place after
>installing the loaded mainshaft I'd love to hear it. I did a BJ-8 box this
>weekend (it sucked!!!) and I have two more to go and need some helpful hints
>on
>getting the laygear back up from the bottom of the box with all of the
>bearings
>and washers and getting it into place. Thanks.
>
>Randy Dickson
>Healey Archaeologist
>Sturgeon Bay, WI.
>63 BJ-7
>66 427 Cobra replica (Fiberglass body built from scratch. Never attempt
>this!!!)
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:49:56 -0500
Subject: Brake & Clutch pedals
Jack
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 01:12:56 +1000
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch pedals
I'm sure there are many who supply this kind of pedal pad arrangement, I
have the cast aluminium pedals as you described, which I bought & fitted
back in 1998. I got mine from Denis Welch Motorsport. The upside is that I
now can't jam my foot between two pedals......
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/new%20healey/healey02/Healey%20brakes3.htm
WIDE ALUMINIUM BRAKE & CLUTCH PEDAL FEET
These have a serrated surface to stop your feet slipping off the pedal and
are a direct bolt-on fit
CBRK302A 6cyl. - each #10-25
CBRK302B 4cyl. - each #10-25
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 12:49 AM
Subject: Brake & Clutch pedals
> Hi All, I don't think I'm really losing my mind, but I need some memory
> help. In one catalog or another I've seen an advert for cast aluminum
> pedals that are direct bolt-on substitutes for the original steel
> pedals. They appear to be a slight bit wider than the stock pedals.
> With my long legs and big feet I can't keep from knocking the rubber
> pads off and this is very irritating since the bare steel pedals can get
> pretty slick. Can anyone help me out with a source for the aluminum
> pedals....please???? Many Thanks,
>
> Jack
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 11:22:32 -0400
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder - Paint Color
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 11:40:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake & Clutch pedals
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 10:49 AM
Subject: Brake & Clutch pedals
> Hi All, I don't think I'm really losing my mind, but I need some memory
> help. In one catalog or another I've seen an advert for cast aluminum
> pedals that are direct bolt-on substitutes for the original steel
> pedals. They appear to be a slight bit wider than the stock pedals.
> With my long legs and big feet I can't keep from knocking the rubber
> pads off and this is very irritating since the bare steel pedals can get
> pretty slick. Can anyone help me out with a source for the aluminum
> pedals....please???? Many Thanks,
>
> Jack
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From "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 11:58:51 -0400
Subject: bumper packing set
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From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:14:30 -0600
Subject: Re: A pain in the seat
I had my seat rails soaked in laquer thinner for several days then bead
blasted (after getting a new bolt welded on a broken stud...) and then had
them zinc plated... turned out great and original quality...
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:45:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re-chroming
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 01:00:34 -0800
Subject: Report on cleaning BJ7 grill
I decided to use Dean's approach of using 600 sandpaper to effectively polish
the anodizing. Started with a parts cleaning station to get the basic gunk
off. But when starting with the sandpaper, found that there was still a thin
film of gunk that quickly gummed up the paper. In looking for something that
would clean that off, I tried waterless hand cleaner. That worked well and
actually allowed sanding with the hand cleaner as the liquid for the wet/dry
sandpaper (cool, clean and sand at the same time - shame it is not a
patentable concept). This left the slats clean and smooth.
It looks a lot better but, however, smooth pitted anodizing is still pitted
and would not be concours quality (assume people go for a new grill at that
level). The pitting must have been from road dirt as the pitting is only in
the oval opening, not to the ends of the slats.
Thanks for the help on this.
Esko
BJ7
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:20:38 -0400
Subject: Hanyes Manual
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Wm. Thompson" <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:35:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Re-chroming
-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Besaw [mailto:besaw55@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 12:46 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re-chroming
Thanks in advance
I plan on getting several pieces (eybrow ove grill, grill surround,
windshield frame, shift shaft, etc.( re-chromed this winter. I have one
suggestion, Triple Chrome in Newburyport, MA but I can't find their number.
Any other thoughts on who does quality work? Thanks
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 20:52:36 +0200
Subject: Help: BJ8 Revcounter working principle
a friend of mine let the smoke escape of some of his wires by a loose
ignition coil touching the motor with the hot connector side.
The cables got burned quickly. As not all got melted the mechanic checked
and rewired the necessary ones but the revcounter doesn't work anymore. As
my 100-SIX has no electrical revcounter I didn't care much about the threads
about the BJ8 electrical stuff. Tried the archives but could't find much.
So could please anyone give me some advise how the electrical revcounter on
the BJ8 MKIII Ph.2 is supposed to work. There is a wire loop at the back, no
direct connection? What to check?
Any help would be very appreciated.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
100-SIX
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:00:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Hanyes Manual
Haynes manual---
If you spell it correctly a Google search turns up quite a few. Here is one;
http://www.motolit.com/090055049x.html
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> Anyone know where I can buy a Haynes manual for the 3000 in this country?
> Couldn't find anything on-line. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:05:59 -0400
Subject: Master Cylinder - Paint color
Anybody know what the correct color for the master cylinder should be? I
was looking on page 19 of Clausager and from the photo it looks engine
black (Semi-gloss black). That's what I was going to paint it until I
saw this flaky yellow stuff.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
<http://neves.millis.ma.us> <http://neves.millis.ma.us>
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From "Gary and Jan Smith" <gary-jan at exit109.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:34:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Help: BJ8 Revcounter working principle
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/tach.html
One of my Healeys came with an MGB tach that is
almost identical to the Healey tach in the BJ8s.
Someone had used it to plug the hole in the dash.
I found the information on the early MGB tach
useful for understanding the operation and
component placement of the Healey tach.
Some of the resistor values may be different
to allow for the 4 vs. 6 cylinder motors, but the
operation the same. Also the troublesome
components seem to be identical.
Gary Smith
64 and 66 BJ8s
now both with working tachs.
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From "GRB" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:48:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Help: BJ8 Revcounter working principle
Gary R. Brierton
'67 BJ-8 "The Silver Bullet", tagged "RSATLAST"
gbrierton@hotmail.com
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:21:22 -0500
Subject: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
I am looking at a BT7 with 72-spoke wheels that needs tires, and am tying
to put together my budget as to what I can afford. I can get the Kumhos
for about $47 each, including mounting.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:36:43 -0700
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
"59 MK1 Jaguar
Mark wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a good car jack that's tried and true- that's small,
> safe, will fit below the car in the event of a flat tire, and can be stored
> easily in the trunk?. Also, it would be great if it could be used with a
> block of wood (or something sim.) as to not damage the frame of the car.
>
> Currently I carry around my 2.4 ton Jack from sears which wont do me a whole
> lot of good if i get a flat and its pretty big.
>
> Please supply jack brand, model #, and where it can be purchased if
> possible.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:38:18 -0700
Subject: Haynes Manual
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:49:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
Personally, I would go with a slightly wider tire than the 165 (assuming
that they fit, of course).
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Patton Dickson [mailto:kpdii@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 4:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
I have seen a couple of references in the archives to the Kumho 165/15
Series 771 tires on big Healeys. Does anyone who has tried them want to
weigh in on their experience with them?
I am looking at a BT7 with 72-spoke wheels that needs tires, and am
tying
to put together my budget as to what I can afford. I can get the
Kumhos
for about $47 each, including mounting.
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:47:50 -0700
Subject: Re: bumper packing set
I have some left over from my last restoration, and would be happy to send
you a piece. If I understand you correctly, you only need one 4"
strip...right? Email me your address, and I'll send it. I'm in Port
Townsend, WA; so if you get an offer from a local, let me know as it will
take a few days to receive mine.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@verizon.net>
To: "Austin Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 8:58 AM
Subject: bumper packing set
> Sorry to bomb the list but I am
> looking for one (1) bumper packing for a BJ7
> M0$$ part number 400-418.
> The catalog list them as $3.90 for a set of four.
> The shipping cost would be $10.00.
> That really ticks me off.
> If anyone has a packing strip (they are 4" long looks like black rubber)
> Please contact me.
> ________________
> Happy Healeying
> Tom Blaskovics
> AHCUSA,ACHA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Morgantown, WV
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:29:27 -0500
Subject: RE: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Vink, Graham
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 3:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
Not sure if they were the same model, but I bought some inexpensive (sounds
better than "cheap") Kumhos to replace some old Michelin redlines on a TR6
that I had until six months ago, and they were a VAST improvement in both
ride and handling. I think they were around 225/75 or 215/70.
Personally, I would go with a slightly wider tire than the 165 (assuming
that they fit, of course).
Graham
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:38:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
I put a set of Kumho 165/15's my new 60 spoke painted Dunlop wheels a
month or so before the Open roads in Tahoe (June '02). I had Michelin ZX
175-15's prior to that but they were getting too old. The Kuhmos were
really inexpensive ($33.-/tire through a local Goodyear place and
sometimes they have specials that put them in the mid 20's.) I did have
them mounted and balanced by a wire wheel pro. Bottom line, they are a
comfortable, smooth tire (softer sidewall than the Dunlop SP-20's) and
use newer tire construction (vs. the Michelins). I only put a few
thousand miles on them before the restoration started but I have talked
to a few other Healey owners that are also pleased with them.
Cheers,
John
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:30:55 -0400
Subject: Transmission problem
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Jonathan and Carole Quandt"
To: "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 19:33:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Re-chroming
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 1:45 PM
Subject: Re-chroming
> Thanks in advance
>
> I plan on getting several pieces (eybrow ove grill, grill surround,
windshield frame, shift shaft, etc.( re-chromed this winter. I have one
suggestion, Triple Chrome in Newburyport, MA but I can't find their number.
Any other thoughts on who does quality work? Thanks
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:34:19 -0700
Subject: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
> I have seen a couple of references in the archives to the Kumho 165/15
> Series 771 tires on big Healeys. Does anyone who has tried them want to
> weigh in on their experience with them?
>
> I am looking at a BT7 with 72-spoke wheels that needs tires, and am tying
> to put together my budget as to what I can afford. I can get the Kumhos
> for about $47 each, including mounting.
>
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
> 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
> Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:39:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Transmission problem
Bob
----------
>From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
>To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Transmission problem
>Date: Mon, Aug 18, 2003, 3:30 PM
>
> OK guys, this one really has me worried. Sunday we did a rally and half way
> though my trans starting grinding when I shift into forth gear. If I shift
> very slowly and let the RPM drop, it goes in smoothly but any faster and it
> grinds. Scared the h*** out of me. When I checked the trans fluid level, it
> was low so I drained the trans ( no metal flakes) and put in fresh 30W non
> detergent. Still the same. I checked the level in the clutch/brake hydraulic
> reservoir and it was low so I topped it up. Still the same. What else can I
> check before I have to drop the trans and send it off to Quantum Mechanics?
> I sure don't want to do that in the middle of the season but I am worried
> that if I keep driving, I might really ruin something. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 19:54:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission problem
Bob. Supposedly it was rebuilt in 2001 but there is no way of knowing that
for sure unless I tear it down. JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 21:59:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Gary R. Cox
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
>
> In a message dated 8/18/03 4:16:43 AM, gcox@tampabay.rr.com writes:
>
> << Gary...for anyone who knows the true cost of professional restoration
> today,
>
> of any marquee, the BJ & RM auction prices are not surprising.
>
>
> Gary R. Cox
>
> Bradenton, FL.
>
> '67 BJ8 >>
>
> The difference is that Healeys, until very recently, couldn't fetch
> professional prices, so most restorations were home-grown hobby-quality.
Now for the
> first time, people who pay to get the work done professionally have an
> opportunity to get most of their money back if they have to sell
immediately. HOWEVER,
> one of our auction observers pointed out the Monterey phenomenon, as
observed
> with XK-Es. Interest starts to rise, and only a few of the marque are
> available for sale at Monterey, so prices go through the roof. The next
year
> everyone brings their XK-E for sale, and prices go back to normal, so the
year after
> no one brings their car. Prices go back up. Lather, rinse, repeat.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 21:13:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
later,
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
66 427 Cobra replica
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:34:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
Dave
BJ8
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 20:33:55 -0600
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
Bill Lawrence
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks, but I'll have to take some measurements. It is not entirely a problem
> of getting the jack under the diff, but more one of being able to move the
> handle after you do. What is needed is a jack with substantial distance
>between
> the lift point and the handle pivot.
>
> Dick
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:03:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=771
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave Carpenter
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 9:34 PM
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
I checked with Tire Rack and they told me the 771 is discontinued and no
longer in stock. Crap, now what? Dunlop says the same thing on the SP20.
Dave
BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:05:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
In a message dated 8/18/03 6:59:48 PM, gcox@tampabay.rr.com writes:
<< Gary...the important point to understand here is the Austin Healey is
finally being recognized as a collectable...thanks in part to quality
restoration shops.
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 23:42:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Gary, I know you wrote the book, but man, you have no faith in restored
Healeys. You will bad mouth any sale over your perceived limit. You have
never, not once, rejoiced in the fact that an Austin Healey brought big
bucks. Why shouldn't it bring as much as the miserable XKE Jag? That Jag
has more mechanical problems than any vehicle known to man.
It gets very tiring to hear.
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>Talked to our auction analyst today, who was within two rows of the
>successful bidder for the gold-plated Healey. Turns out that the fellow
>arrived late,
>after several of the good Healeys had already been sold, and when his wife saw
>this one, the last one on the list for the event, she insisted he buy it.
>Someone was, obviously, bidding against them, but who knows why. In any case,
>every time the bid went up, she hollered at him to raise his bid; she had to
>have
>that car. So there may be more than just Monterey fever involved in this sale.
>Other Healeys were selling all weekend for the same prices as before with
>excellent Healeys getting in the mid-$40s. So, don't plan your retirement on
>the
>basis of that project in your garage just yet.
>Cheers
>Gary
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:04:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/tires.html
http://www.britishwirewheel.com/tires.htm
Dave Russell
BN2
Dave Carpenter wrote:
> I checked with Tire Rack and they told me the 771 is discontinued and no
> longer in stock. Crap, now what? Dunlop says the same thing on the SP20.
>
> Dave
> BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 00:33:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
<<
Gary, I know you wrote the book, but man, you have no faith in restored
Healeys. You will bad mouth any sale over your perceived limit. You have
never, not once, rejoiced in the fact that an Austin Healey brought big
bucks. Why shouldn't it bring as much as the miserable XKE Jag? That Jag
has more mechanical problems than any vehicle known to man.
It gets very tiring to hear. >>
Always nice to hear from my fans. Healeys do go up in value -- they've been
doing so for several years at a rate faster than most other classic cars. But
there are limits, and for the past 30 years, those limits have been defined by
what Jaguars sell for.
Your criticism sounds so much like the comments I heard being made when
traditional economists like me questioned the rapid rise of stocks in companies
that made no products or services, or profits for that matter. As we've seen,
the "new economy" was just a rationalization for behavior that could only
otherwise be explained by the "bigger sucker" theorem.
If all five or six Healeys on the block last weekend had pushed over the $50k
barrier, then I'd be more than happy to re-evaluate my opinion. I don't get
happy or sad over the rise in Healeys. It's just a set of data to be evaluated.
What I rejoice in is the sound of my BN7's exhaust, and the feeling as I
click/pause/click up from second to third through the gears in my original
gearbox.
And could we focus our comments on the facts, theories, or philosophies of
the case, without getting personal? That's what makes me tired sometimes.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:54:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:48:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> Talked to our auction analyst today, who was within
> two rows of the
> successful bidder for the gold-plated Healey. Turns
> out that the fellow arrived late,
> after several of the good Healeys had already been
> sold, and when his wife saw
> this one, the last one on the list for the event,
> she insisted he buy it.
> Someone was, obviously, bidding against them, but
> who knows why. In any case,
> every time the bid went up, she hollered at him to
> raise his bid; she had to have
> that car. So there may be more than just Monterey
> fever involved in this sale.
> Other Healeys were selling all weekend for the same
> prices as before with
> excellent Healeys getting in the mid-$40s. So,
> don't plan your retirement on the
> basis of that project in your garage just yet.
> Cheers
> Gary
>
> In a message dated 8/18/03 6:59:48 PM,
> gcox@tampabay.rr.com writes:
>
> << Gary...the important point to understand here is
> the Austin Healey is
>
> finally being recognized as a collectable...thanks
> in part to quality
>
> restoration shops.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:51:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: ideal car jack
I've bought cheapo scissors jacks before (from JC
Whitney). Good for one use only, unfortunately.
You're better off getting an OEM one from some car in
a junk yard, you're guaranteed it'll be better quality
coming from a car company.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rob Westcott <westcotc@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi Mark,
> I just bought a cheapo scissor jack from Schucks,
> about $20.00.
> Wrapped in a towel, it fits nicely in the curve
> behind the gastank.
> Figure it is good for few uses. DON"T use it to
> jack from the front or
> rear of the car, only from the side. Use wheel
> chocks as the car could
> roll forward or backward. (don't ask me how I
> know) It is low enough
> to should slide under the car with a thinner block
> of wood.
>
> Rob Westcott
>
> '55 BN1
> "59 MK1 Jaguar
>
>
> Mark wrote:
> > Can anyone suggest a good car jack that's tried
> and true- that's small,
> > safe, will fit below the car in the event of a
> flat tire, and can be stored
> > easily in the trunk?. Also, it would be great if
> it could be used with a
> > block of wood (or something sim.) as to not damage
> the frame of the car.
> >
> > Currently I carry around my 2.4 ton Jack from
> sears which wont do me a whole
> > lot of good if i get a flat and its pretty big.
> >
> > Please supply jack brand, model #, and where it
> can be purchased if
> > possible.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 05:35:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
On Alan's comment about the wife, it wouldn't be all bad being married to a
women who wants you to spend irrational amounts of money on old sports cars,
certainly better than being married to one who wanted you to spend nothing
at all.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
P.S. price only matters when you want to sell your car so you can buy
another, going down the road with the top down and the exhaust note ringing
in your ear or taking one last look at the car before you turn the garage
lights out is, to use an overworked phrase from recent commercials,
priceless.
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 08:42:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
If I were to use Mobil-1 in my Healey, I might not change it any more often
than every several years, since I drive only 3-4K/yr. But I would change the
filter every 3,000 miles and top off as necessary.
BTW, I also use Mobil-1 in my mower. Hasn't been changed now in at least 3
years, still nice and clean looking. The mower is 17 yrs old.
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> For those of you using synthetic oil in your Healeys, how often do you
> change it? Assume a situation of normal driving.
>
> Miles_________________
> Time_________________
>
> Thanks
> Tom
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 06:34:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
Tracy (Bighly)
Patton Dickson wrote:
>I have seen a couple of references in the archives to the Kumho 165/15
>Series 771 tires on big Healeys. Does anyone who has tried them want to
>weigh in on their experience with them?
>
>I am looking at a BT7 with 72-spoke wheels that needs tires, and am tying
>to put together my budget as to what I can afford. I can get the Kumhos
>for about $47 each, including mounting.
>
>Thanks
>Patton
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
>1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
>Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 06:51:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Crappy Rotors
Uuuuurghhh
Tracy
Bob Spidell wrote:
>Man, can't believe the (distributor) rotors that are being foisted on us.
>
>Just got one out of two DOA out of the box (I know, that's redundant).
>Lucas brand ... I had hoped they were better.
>
>Anybody found a definitive solution to this problem?
>
>
>bs
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 08:56:25 -0500
Subject: Healey Values thru the roof
My two cents: every auction will always have some cars that went "too
high" and others that went "too low." That's what makes them fun. But as
a Healey owner, I'd rather see a record high than a record low.
In the long term, I think somewhat higher prices are good for our marque
because they encourage people to keep the cars on the road and to fix
them when they break, which also helps keep up a steady demand for
PARTS, encouraging companies to manufacture replacements (and, as we
know, NOS won't last forever.)
For example, I wouldn't want to be restoring a Ford Pinto right now,
even though they made millions of them. Because there's no demand for
the cars, there's no demand for any parts.
-Graham
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
You're kidding right? If she's willing to let hubby spend that much on a
run-o-the-mill, albeit nicely restored Healey - can you just imagine the
possibilities. The guy probably has a stable full of some very nice
hardware - auguably over paid - but must be very nice nonetheless.
On the other hand, most of our better halves, hell, us for that matter get
upset over having to spend $5 on faulty rotors. It's all relative. Sure
you can't take it with you, but why would you want to drive a Miata to get
there.
Later gators
_________________________________________________________________
<b>MSN 8:</b> Get 6 months for $9.95/month.
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 11:15:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Having owned (and deeply appreciated) both when they were new, I'd have to
guess you've never driven a Miata.
--
John Miller
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 11:44:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
TELL me about it! Oy!
;-)
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
<b>Help protect your PC:</b> Get a free online virus scan at McAfee.com.
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:26:40 -0700
Subject: RE: A pain in the seat
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
And the distributor was?
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
> As it seems some of us are at the same stage of restoration, I thought I
> would pass along an experience I had today. I decided to get new seat
rails
> after seeing how rusty the old ones were. The new rails were galvanized
> (good), including the bolt threads (bad). I decided instead of just
cranking
> the nuts on I would chase the threads with a die. What a pain, the die
gets
> all gummed up with the soft metal. On one thread, the weld on the bolt
> broke. Of course it was one of the middle bolts so I had to disassemble
the
> entire rail to re-weld the bolt on in order to get the die off. I was
lucky
> that the weld didn't pop while I was bolting the rail in place. Trying to
> disassemble with the rail still bolted to the car would have been a lot
> worse. Just something to think about when (if) you get to that point.
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 12:19:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Having owned two, both Series 1's, I cann tell you that the opposite is
true.
BTW, for the benefit of our other listers, how many E-Types have you
owned/or what experience do you draw from to reach the above conclusion?
Regards
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/18/03 10:43:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
>
> There you guys go again. You can't seem to comprehend the concept that
> an Austin Healey can go up in value. You look for reasons why someone
> made a mistake or something else to degrade it.
>
> Gary, I know you wrote the book, but man, you have no faith in restored
> Healeys. You will bad mouth any sale over your perceived limit. You have
> never, not once, rejoiced in the fact that an Austin Healey brought big
> bucks. Why shouldn't it bring as much as the miserable XKE Jag? That Jag
> has more mechanical problems than any vehicle known to man.
>
> It gets very tiring to hear.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
> >Talked to our auction analyst today, who was within two rows of the
> >successful bidder for the gold-plated Healey. Turns out that the fellow
arrived late,
> >after several of the good Healeys had already been sold, and when his
wife saw
> >this one, the last one on the list for the event, she insisted he buy
it.
> >Someone was, obviously, bidding against them, but who knows why. In any
case,
> >every time the bid went up, she hollered at him to raise his bid; she
had to have
> >that car. So there may be more than just Monterey fever involved in this
sale.
> >Other Healeys were selling all weekend for the same prices as before
with
> >excellent Healeys getting in the mid-$40s. So, don't plan your
retirement on the
> >basis of that project in your garage just yet.
> >Cheers
> >Gary
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 12:24:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
Regards
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Johnson <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>; tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
> Date: 8/19/03 7:42:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
>
> I never saw a response to this, so I will throw in my .02. I have been
using
> Mobil-1 since 1980 or so in my daily drivers, not my Healey (it was either
> off the road, or now leaks too much). I was a Mobil distributor back then,
> and had access to a lot of info on Mobil-1 (or Delvac-1 for diesel
engines).
> The biggest piece of info that I read was the results of testing on a
Yellow
> Freight Lines truck. At the recommended intervals they changed the filters
> only and added make up oil to top off. They never actually did a drain and
> fill in the traditional manner. At every change they did test a sample of
> the oil to see if it was still within specifications. After 300,000 miles
> the oil was still good, the engine was clean, and running well. About that
> time I bought a 1980 Olds 98 diesel (remember that the GM diesels were
> notorious for not being a good engine). I used Delvac-1 in the car and
drove
> it 179,000 miles and sold it. I bought a 1989 Camry and used Mobil-1 in it
> for 200,000 miles and sold it. In both vehicles I used this maintenance
> routine. At the recommended intervals I changed the oil filter and added
oil
> to top off. I actually changed oil once a year, so 20,000 miles more or
> less. I am doing the same with my current Camry. About 4 months ago, there
> was a recall for my '97 model, something about oil "jelling" in cars with
> high mileage. Toyota would rebuild the engine free. They took my engine
> apart and essentially put it back together again, it did not have any
> problems or show even normal wear they said.
>
> If I were to use Mobil-1 in my Healey, I might not change it any more
often
> than every several years, since I drive only 3-4K/yr. But I would change
the
> filter every 3,000 miles and top off as necessary.
>
> BTW, I also use Mobil-1 in my mower. Hasn't been changed now in at least 3
> years, still nice and clean looking. The mower is 17 yrs old.
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > For those of you using synthetic oil in your Healeys, how often do you
> > change it? Assume a situation of normal driving.
> >
> > Miles_________________
> > Time_________________
> >
> > Thanks
> > Tom
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:36:34 -0700
Subject: Re: A pain in the seat
I decided instead of just
>crankingthe nuts on I would chase the threads with a die. What a pain, the die
>
>
>gets all gummed up with the soft metal. On one thread, the weld on the bolt
>broke.
>
Hi Greg,
For future reference, you can also remove the extra zinc plating with a
wire wheel on a bench grinder, hand held drill or dremel tool. I ran
into the same problem recently on a rebuilt set of gauges and just used
a wire brush given the delicate nature of the part.
Cheers,
John
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:51:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
E-Type - more heritage, unique IRS, twin cam alloy
headed engine, incomparable aero body, huge
instruments, what else?
Joe Mulqueen (who's fiance thinks Healeys look like
MGAs)
'60 BT7 (project)
'56 MGA (restored)
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 23:42:06 -0700
From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
...Why shouldn't it bring as much as the miserable XKE
Jag? That Jag has more mechanical problems than any
vehicle known to man....
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:49:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
>call me racist, an elitist or whatever, however, if i had to drive MY
>austin-healey with tires on it called kumho, even if they were the best tire
>in the world rather than the cheapest, i'd just leave it in the garage.
>p.s. a 165x15 is a vw tire, not a big healey tire !
>
>
Jerry,
You could always get some 175-15 Michelins ... mon dieu, c'est francais,
non? It might be a good idea to leave those in the garage too ... being
in Texas and all.
Anyway, just in case you change your mind ;) I emailed Kumho yesterday
about the 165-15 being discontinued and received the following response:
------------
We do still make a 165R15 in our 771 line, but it is currently on back
order. we do have a 165/80R15 in stock in our 771. Part # 3001. This
tire is the same dimensions as the 165R15, but it says 165/80R15 on the
sidewall. If you can wait for the 165R15, it should be into our LA
warehouse in about 3-6 weeks.
Thanks,
Aaron Smith
Kumho Technical Support
--------------
HTH,
John
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 09:59:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Hi Alan,
I was sitting about 6 seats away from this couple as well and we
couldn't believe the bidding war BUT it wasn't 1/2 as much fun as the
lovely lady 2 rows behind that bid $1.87 MILLION on Fangio's 1956
Ferrari 860 Monza. Talk about a rush! I wish I was married to that
woman. (just kidding Carol)
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> I wish to thank the lord that I am not married to this
> woman.
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 13:32:33 -0400
Subject: XKE vs Healey(was Values thru the roof)
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 13:42:51 -0500
Subject: Fw: Healey Values thru the roof
> > Hi gang,
> > actually i don't think that's completely true.
> > Isn't the 2 liter OHC Pinto engine the one used in some Formula Fords or
> > some other SCCA spec series engine?? at least you can get engine
> > parts,although i doubt there's no NOS gas tanks available!! ;?)
> > but you should pro'lly use a fuel cell instead!!
> > HoYo
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>
> > To: <vinkg@fleishman.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 10:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
> >
> >
> > > >From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> > > >Reply-To: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> > > >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > > >Subject: Healey Values thru the roof
> > > >Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 08:56:25 -0500
> > > >
> > > >For example, I wouldn't want to be restoring a Ford Pinto right now,
> > > >even though they made millions of them. Because there's no demand for
> > > >the cars, there's no demand for any parts.
> > >
> > >
> > > TELL me about it! Oy!
> > >
> > > ;-)
> > >
> > > Reid Trummel
> > > Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
> > > http://www.healey.org
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 13:11:10 -0700
Subject: tech session for the day
I replaced the springs and no more miss. We went on a 3 hour drive on Sunday
and the only problem was my feet cooking as it was 100 degrees outside and you
know Healeys in the footwell. That idle problem is still there but now that
the distributor is steady, I shall go back and reset the carbs.
It is a good think that I like working on old cars.
Jerry
BN4 1959 with a 3000 engine
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 16:20:22 -0700
Subject: A cure for overheating
What's the result of a 40 degree drop in motor temperature? Operating
oil pressure is 50 psi, idle pressure is 40 pounds (high temp thins
oil/reducing pressure). I haven't lost a drop of coolant. The motor has
virtually no pre-ignition, and the under-bonnet temp was reduced such
that there are no longer fumes burning our throats. Stop and go traffic
is not a problem.
My conclusion is that Healey owners who experience overheating should
bite the bullet and pay the dough to have the radiator re-cored. It
cost me $265--less than all the desperate attempts taken previously.
It's nice to be able to drive during the day when the temperature is 90
degrees without fear.
Cheers,
Jonathan Quandt
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 21:12:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
<< Gary,
Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on pricing Healey's. As I'm in the
process of fixing up my 65 BJ8, what is the best basis for determining how
much to put into it to reach a good sales price when I am ready to sell.maybe a
year on so from now. How do you value what a Healey should go for?
Thanks for your input...Nick >>
That's an interesting strategic planning question, since there are so many
variables.
First thing to note is that the prices we've been discussing were achieved
with frame-up restorations done by a person who does six or so Healeys a year,
and has been doing so for many years, and has his own body man (his father) to
do the panel-beating. In other words, he buys carefully, knows what he's
doing, makes few mistakes, and does a very high quality job.
Since you say you're doing the fix-up yourself, unless you're a Master
Mechanic with good Healey experience, you'll probably wind up -- with careful
work
-- with what we call a "good club driver." These are typically selling in the
$25k-$35k range right now.
You also have to evaluate what the current condition of the car is and how
much it will cost to put it into that condition.
Bottom line, if I knew that I had no intention of keeping my Healey, then I
would spend as little as possible to put it into safe running condition. Hoses,
belts, tune-up kit, seals, and gaskets, oil change, lube, radiator flush,
brake components as needed, etc. so someone could buy it and drive it home.
I'd
clean it up as much as elbow grease, detailing products, and a pressure washer
would permit, then I'd sell it.
I wouldn't invest anything in body work, paint, interior kits (unless the
seats are so bad that no one would want to sit in them), or any major work.
There
is simply no way you can get the value back on anything more than that
without keeping it yourself to enjoy for enough years to get back your
investment in
time and money.
Just my humble opinion.
Cheers
Gary
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 20:25:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 19:05:37 -0700
Subject: Off subject, oil change joke. Delete IYW.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the
last
oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly maintained
vehicle.
Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00
Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil,
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for
$50.00..
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20....00,
drive
home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process.
Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms.
Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter
and
twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil
everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash
can
to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil
change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag
pan
full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in
back
yard instead of taking it back to Kragen to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to
gasket
surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard,
along
with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily
dirt
into hole. Steal sand from kids sandbox to cleverly cover oily patch of
ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawnmower
gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw
kitty
litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily
rag
used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening
drain
plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December
(1992)
in the left boob.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood
flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during
steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail.
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.
Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total-- $4165.00
-- But you know the job was done right
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 18:29:52 -0500
Subject: Re: A pain in the seat
Well done, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <gregwilkinson@adelphia.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>; Mark and kathy LaPierre
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 11:26 AM
Subject: RE: A pain in the seat
> Hi Mark,
> I didn't mention the distributor because I don't know how many carry this
> part. I bought mine from Moss. I called them yesterday to make them aware
of
> the problem and they were very receptive, thanking me and even offered a
> "Good Samaritan" discount.
>
> Best,
> Greg
> 67 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> And the distributor was?
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 22:21:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
Good point. The oil change in my BJ8 is ongoing. I only pause to replace
the filter once in a while.
Keith Pennell
> I'd love to put Mobil 1 in my Healey but I'm afraid of the routine
bloodletting
> on my driveway.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From James Albeck <mybjate at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 19:48:28 -0700
Subject: Healey's on Forbes Web Site
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 20:29:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Values thru the roof
Is she divorced & looking? This is the question.
Answer please.
Sort of reminds me of the time I saw this
exceptionally hot, young blonde woman driving a
massive 1930's convertible blue bugatti racer by
herself near Stinson Beach in SF. My jaw dropped...
the image will never be lost from my meager mind.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rob Westcott <westcotc@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> >
> > I wish to thank the lord that I am not married to
> this
> > woman.
>
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> I was sitting about 6 seats away from this couple
> as well and we
> couldn't believe the bidding war BUT it wasn't 1/2
> as much fun as the
> lovely lady 2 rows behind that bid $1.87 MILLION on
> Fangio's 1956
> Ferrari 860 Monza. Talk about a rush! I wish I was
> married to that
> woman. (just kidding Carol)
>
> Rob Westcott
>
> '55 BN1
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
> >
> > I wish to thank the lord that I am not married to
> this
> > woman.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 20:33:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XKE vs Healey(was Values thru the roof)
I'll have you know I polish my turd regularly!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 turd
--- RAWDAWGS@aol.com wrote:
> I was fortunate to have a Jag and a Healey at the
> same time. I talked my father into paying $2700 for
> a pretty clapped out series 1 1/2 2+2 in 1978. I had
> purchased a Healey two years before at the age of 16
> for $350 They are two different personalities, hard
> to believe they are both British. My Healey was a
> BN4, a true 50's roadster. The shiny new BJ8s I saw
> were desparate attempts to keep an aged design on
> the road. They were beautiful, but they were
> polishing a turd. The Jag on the other hand was
> still (at the time) state of the art.Twin overhead
> cams, triple S.U.s, beatiful cast suspension
> pieces,the long louvered hood that when folded
> forward would surely draw a crowd.Aviator cockpit.
> The way the front and rear fenders almost were
> poured over the 72 spoke chrome wheels still sends
> chills up my spine. And boy did it go. Mine had a
> four speed and would drop it into fourth right at
> 100 MPH,still accelerating.It was turbine smooth and
> girls loved it. When I graduated in 197!
> 9 it was understood that I would keep one and sell
> one. I kept the healey. Why? Well it was My car,
> like your first girl you know, and it was more fun
> at 50 mph than the jag at 100. It lurched, growled
> and belched fire. It frightened folks in both seats.
> It was hard to break and cheap to fix. Something
> about steering with the throtte that puts a grin on
> your face.Do I wish I still had that Jag? You bet.
> Did I make the right choice? Absolutely! SM
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 00:28:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
I wouldn't invest anything in body work, paint, interior kits (unless the
seats are so bad that no one would want to sit in them), or any major work.
There
is simply no way you can get the value back on anything more than that
without keeping it yourself to enjoy for enough years to get back your
investment in
time and money.
<
I think Gary has also hit on an important message embedded in his text.
That is, I think this is the best method in which to buy a good Healey for
the best price. One not needing body work,paint or interior but a car just
needing someone to love it and give it some TLC.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 00:53:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
"The wisdom of the ages: Buy the best car you can afford, for your intended
purpose. The cost of a full restoration ($30,000-40,000 or more) exceeds or
perhaps just equals the retail value of these cars. Bear in mind that there
is no theoretical limit to how much you can spend to restore a car. The cost
of a full, correct restoration, added to the cost to acquire a car in the
first place, will almost always exceed, usually by a significant amount, the
retail value of the finished product. You can save much time, frustration
and money by buying a car that is already in the condition you require, and
begin enjoying it right way. And isn't that the whole point?"
Seemed timely and topical.
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
>Reply-To: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
>To: "INTERNET:Editorgary@aol.com" <Editorgary@aol.com>, Healeyphiles
><Healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
>Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 00:28:14 -0400
>
>Message text written by INTERNET:Editorgary@aol.com
> >Bottom line, if I knew that I had no intention of keeping my Healey, then
>I
>would spend as little as possible to put it into safe running condition.
>Hoses,
>belts, tune-up kit, seals, and gaskets, oil change, lube, radiator flush,
>brake components as needed, etc. so someone could buy it and drive it home.
> I'd
>clean it up as much as elbow grease, detailing products, and a pressure
>washer
>would permit, then I'd sell it.
>
>I wouldn't invest anything in body work, paint, interior kits (unless the
>seats are so bad that no one would want to sit in them), or any major work.
>There
>is simply no way you can get the value back on anything more than that
>without keeping it yourself to enjoy for enough years to get back your
>investment in
>time and money.
><
>
>I think Gary has also hit on an important message embedded in his text.
>That is, I think this is the best method in which to buy a good Healey for
>the best price. One not needing body work,paint or interior but a car just
>needing someone to love it and give it some TLC.
>
>
>Scot
>'66 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
<b>MSN 8:</b> Get 6 months for $9.95/month.
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 22:25:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Off subject, oil change joke. Delete IYW.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 22:45:14 -0700
Subject: Healey Values
Healeys (and Jags) are great. For the guy with the pocket full of money they
represent good value for the money. Just my opinion. YMMV.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
Just back from Pebble and the auctions
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 23:19:42 -0700
Subject: good cheap flat bed needed in LA
does any body have a good reliable inexpensive flat bed guy in the san Fernando
valley?
Ron Rader
Los Angeles
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 04:48:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 05:07:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Sale price of Healey
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 08:27:40 -0400
Subject: Healey prices
It happened in coins 30 years again. When I was a little kid, everyone bought
rolls of pennies, and swapped spares. A trip to reputable coin dealers meant
beautify acquisitions for under $10. There were millions of collectors. Then
the Yuppies weighed in, and bought coins for investment. Suddenly, a 1955
double struck penny (not really all that rare) ran Dad two weeks pay, and kids
started to drop out. Now, hardly anyone but the true believers collect coins.
Greed blew out the candle of enthusiasm. You can buy that double struck penny
for a fraction of what it was worth in the '60's.
Similar trends have arisen in fine antiques. Today, the price of good period
antiquities are way beyond the reach of young couples hoping to restore an
antique house. Fewer are trying. Auctions are combat zones, and only the top1%
can compete for good items. Often, those that do are trophy hunters, less
interested in the intrinsic virtues of a rare desk or sideboard than the oohs
and aahs it generates over what was paid. Dealers and knowledgeable
connoiseurs are falling out. Most young people just aren't interested in
getting into the game. Recently, higher-end antiquities have been going soft.
Price-gouging over the last two decades has finally come to roost. High end
dealers are sitting on huge inventories; people who overpaid in the '90's are
taking a beating. Why? The solid (middle income) buying herds have moved on to
other past-times.
What does this have to do with Healeys? For 40 years, there's been a warm
garage for even the marginal driver because the price was within reach. The
sustainability of the Healey"Legacy" has, in my opinion, been sustained in
large part because the cars could be bought for a decent price. This put
everyone, from an 18 year old college student on scholarship to retired
stockbrokers, on a level playing field. That's why so many Healeys are still
on the road: wide-spread interest that has continually drawn new blood, and an
unual number of 'hand's on' owners who don't mind dirty fingernails.
My fear for the long run is that soaring prices will force younger would-be
Healey types to move on, perhaps to 240Z 's and Spyders, both of which can be
bought in driver condition for a third the cost. Where will this put us 20
years down the road?
allen miller BN2/M
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 09:29:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey prices
<<My fear for the long run is that soaring prices will force younger
would-beHealey types to move on, perhaps to 240Z 's and Spyders, both of which
can bebought in driver condition for a third the cost. Where will this put us
20years down the road?>>
allen miller BN2/M
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 07:27:51 -0700
Subject: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny
I need to allow the revs to decrease to about 2000 RPMs before it will
"slip" in gear.
Is this a job I can tackle myself . I am assuming that I need new
syncros and perhaps
shifting forks. Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Alternativly are there any members in the Bay area with experience
enough to help me tackle this correction?
Tracy
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 10:42:28 -0400
Subject: Healey prices
Terry 100-M, Morgan 4/4/TR6
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 11:17:02 EDT
Subject: 100/6 rod
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 08:25:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey prices
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Allen C. Miller, Jr.
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 5:28 AM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: Healey prices
Beware we get what we ask. I have collected things all my life -- coins,
then
antiques; now back to cars. There is a dangerous side to prices rising for
collectibles, and it has hit home in both coins and antiques. Prices
suddenly
soar; collectors rush in; artificial rarities are created; and SUDDENLY the
young and less affluent (who represent the majority of future buyers) can't
afford to stay in the game.
It happened in coins 30 years again. When I was a little kid, everyone
bought
rolls of pennies, and swapped spares. A trip to reputable coin dealers meant
beautify acquisitions for under $10. There were millions of collectors. Then
the Yuppies weighed in, and bought coins for investment. Suddenly, a 1955
double struck penny (not really all that rare) ran Dad two weeks pay, and
kids
started to drop out. Now, hardly anyone but the true believers collect
coins.
Greed blew out the candle of enthusiasm. You can buy that double struck
penny
for a fraction of what it was worth in the '60's.
Similar trends have arisen in fine antiques. Today, the price of good period
antiquities are way beyond the reach of young couples hoping to restore an
antique house. Fewer are trying. Auctions are combat zones, and only the
top1%
can compete for good items. Often, those that do are trophy hunters, less
interested in the intrinsic virtues of a rare desk or sideboard than the
oohs
and aahs it generates over what was paid. Dealers and knowledgeable
connoiseurs are falling out. Most young people just aren't interested in
getting into the game. Recently, higher-end antiquities have been going
soft.
Price-gouging over the last two decades has finally come to roost. High end
dealers are sitting on huge inventories; people who overpaid in the '90's
are
taking a beating. Why? The solid (middle income) buying herds have moved on
to
other past-times.
What does this have to do with Healeys? For 40 years, there's been a warm
garage for even the marginal driver because the price was within reach. The
sustainability of the Healey"Legacy" has, in my opinion, been sustained in
large part because the cars could be bought for a decent price. This put
everyone, from an 18 year old college student on scholarship to retired
stockbrokers, on a level playing field. That's why so many Healeys are still
on the road: wide-spread interest that has continually drawn new blood, and
an
unual number of 'hand's on' owners who don't mind dirty fingernails.
My fear for the long run is that soaring prices will force younger would-be
Healey types to move on, perhaps to 240Z 's and Spyders, both of which can
be
bought in driver condition for a third the cost. Where will this put us 20
years down the road?
allen miller BN2/M
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 11:55:18 -0400
Subject: missing clutch
Thanks,
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 08:59:00 -0700
Subject: summer
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 11:23:49 -0500
Subject: Hong Kong & Healeys
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
<b>MSN 8:</b> Get 6 months for $9.95/month
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 13:02:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Healey prices
> [Original Message]
> From: Allen C. Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/20/03 7:27:31 AM
> Subject: Healey prices
>
> Beware we get what we ask. I have collected things all my life -- coins,
then
> antiques; now back to cars. There is a dangerous side to prices rising for
> collectibles, and it has hit home in both coins and antiques. Prices
suddenly
> soar; collectors rush in; artificial rarities are created; and SUDDENLY
the
> young and less affluent (who represent the majority of future buyers)
can't
> afford to stay in the game.
>
> It happened in coins 30 years again. When I was a little kid, everyone
bought
> rolls of pennies, and swapped spares. A trip to reputable coin dealers
meant
> beautify acquisitions for under $10. There were millions of collectors.
Then
> the Yuppies weighed in, and bought coins for investment. Suddenly, a 1955
> double struck penny (not really all that rare) ran Dad two weeks pay, and
kids
> started to drop out. Now, hardly anyone but the true believers collect
coins.
> Greed blew out the candle of enthusiasm. You can buy that double struck
penny
> for a fraction of what it was worth in the '60's.
>
> Similar trends have arisen in fine antiques. Today, the price of good
period
> antiquities are way beyond the reach of young couples hoping to restore an
> antique house. Fewer are trying. Auctions are combat zones, and only the
top1%
> can compete for good items. Often, those that do are trophy hunters, less
> interested in the intrinsic virtues of a rare desk or sideboard than the
oohs
> and aahs it generates over what was paid. Dealers and knowledgeable
> connoiseurs are falling out. Most young people just aren't interested in
> getting into the game. Recently, higher-end antiquities have been going
soft.
> Price-gouging over the last two decades has finally come to roost. High
end
> dealers are sitting on huge inventories; people who overpaid in the '90's
are
> taking a beating. Why? The solid (middle income) buying herds have moved
on to
> other past-times.
>
> What does this have to do with Healeys? For 40 years, there's been a warm
> garage for even the marginal driver because the price was within reach.
The
> sustainability of the Healey"Legacy" has, in my opinion, been sustained
in
> large part because the cars could be bought for a decent price. This put
> everyone, from an 18 year old college student on scholarship to retired
> stockbrokers, on a level playing field. That's why so many Healeys are
still
> on the road: wide-spread interest that has continually drawn new blood,
and an
> unual number of 'hand's on' owners who don't mind dirty fingernails.
>
> My fear for the long run is that soaring prices will force younger
would-be
> Healey types to move on, perhaps to 240Z 's and Spyders, both of which
can be
> bought in driver condition for a third the cost. Where will this put us 20
> years down the road?
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 13:24:31 -0400
Subject: Healey Values--the "XKE" Reference
So, thought some of you would like to read what another E-Type owner had to
say about E-Type ,maintenance. He was responding to a question posed by
another lister who was considering modifying one. This particuliar owner
drives his E-Type all over the east coast----THEN--races it and then drives
1000 - 1300 miles back home.
"ok.. let's look at this from another angle!
you must have heard too many horror stories from ignorant mechanics about
how an e-type is expensive and difficult to maintain, completly unreliable
and unable to cover 50 miles without a tow truck and a $ 1000 tune up.
BULS....
Teh original Jaguar engine is bullet proof... it's not idiot proof of course
but it's one of of the most reliable engine ever produced. The suspension
is equially brilliant and is often used by hot rodders. there is nothing
costly about it...
What gave the E-type it's reputation for being expensive, beside ignorant
mechanics who can only work on a chevy, are some of the accessories like
alternator, ingition, fuel pump, cooling system. These can be easily
modernized with delco alternator, MSD ignition, modern fuel pump and alloy
rad. that will take care of the reliability issues and being fully
reversible will not affect the value of the car... it also won't be frown
upon ... unlike suggesting replacing the engine by some chevy lump...
an e-type coupe in "ok" condition... can be found for 15k. add about 5k to
make the car reliable and you can have one of the best sports car ever built
for the price of a Miata... it's a no brainer... 5 years from now the Miata
will be worth nothing... the e-type will have maintained its value if
properly cared for.
once sorted out, an E-type is as cheap to maintain as anything else...
especailly if you do the work yourself or if you find the right Jaguar
specialist. I drive mine 10 to 15k a year, including pushing it on track,
and don't spend much on maintenance. not more than I would on any other
car.
do some reserach on this sites and others and you will realize that owning
an E-type is much cheaper that you were told..."
Like the man said-------I really get tired of hearing these silly,
misguided "XKE" tales.
Cheers
tom
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From win <win at gmi.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 12:49:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
As one of the younger people on this list (4 days away from 25) I can identify
with the statement above. I have been to some car shows with other guys around
my age and there doesn't seem to be any interest in British cars. Most of my
friends tend to gravitate to the
muscle cars or the exotics.
I'm a little different. I always had a picture in my mind of the car I wanted.
Turns out it just happened to look exactly like an Austin Healey. Guess I got
lucky. I don't make a lot of money but it was worth it to get my "dream car."
I have had it for nearly two years now. Of course, all of my friends looked at
me like I was an idiot, especially when I told them I went all the way from
Mississippi to Ohio to find a car.
All that is to say, there probably is a decline in enthusiasm about old British
cars. And money is a big issue. Obviously, if you are in college or just out
you probably don't have much money. But more importantly, I think it is a
change in the generations. Old cars just aren't quite as cool as they used to
be. Make no mistake, I turn alot of heads when I drive by the nearby college
campus. Unfortunatley, I imagine that is the only time most college age people
ever think about old cars. What a shame. They don't know what they are
missing.
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 14:27:40 EDT
Subject: Re: missing clutch
> Clutch pedal goes to the floor, no resistance
Check the clevis pin that connects the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the
clutch pedal lever.
The clevis pins do sometimes wear into.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 12:08:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: wiper motor color?
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 15:31:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values--the "XKE" Reference
Having said that, to paraphrase the words of a wiser man than I, "they're not
nearly as bad as they've been made out to be, but they're not all that good,
either."
Aside from the standard old British car weaknesses, in which the big Healey
and Jag are neck-and-neck, you've got the extra sophistication, which equals
complexity, which equals maintenance time/$$. Not quite the difference
between a P-51 Mustang and a Stearman, but tending in that direction.
In particular, the time required for a valve adjustment on the Jag is in a
whole other ballpark. Oil changes take 12 quarts. The inboard rear discs
(wonderful for performance) are yet another adventure, as is the Jag's use of
the rear half-axles as suspension components. Break an axle joint, and the
wheel is a-floppin'. The list is longer, but I think the point is made.
Tom, I wouldn't, if I were you, call "BULS...." on a list populated by
knowledgeable people, then follow it up by trying to sell the notion that
operational costs for an XKE and, say, a BJ8 are the same. Over the long
haul, they ain't. That's not to say I'm unsympathetic to your point of view.
:-)
Best,
--
John "got the T-shirt" Miller
Prediction is very difficult, especially of the future.
-Niels Bohr
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:40:09 -0400
Subject: body alignment
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:37:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Values--the "XKE" Reference
Hope nothing happens to get you to the one car choice:)---but, look at it
this way---you'd have your favorite car. Your point is well taken on
maintenance costs WHEN maintenance is needed on the E---I really didn't
mean to imply maintenance costs of the two cars, when needed, were the
same. My point was to share comments from another E owner to try to dispel
some of the negative comments about the frequency of maintenance and lack
of dependability on the E. My experience, and that of most E owners I know
is that if these cars are serviced properly, they are pretty indestructable
and will have no more maintenance failures that most other classics.
I did have a shock mount come loose on my BJ8 once---scarry, but never a
broken half shaft on the E.
Regards
Tom
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From "Ron Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 14:04:35 -0700
Subject: BN1 Summer car
Nice illustration. You've got w-a-a-a-y too much time on your hands.
Ron Yates, editor
Dipstick Digest
Newsletter of the World's and
Arizona's Smallest Austin-Healey Club
(didn't get to finish; the first one got away too fast)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 8:59 AM
Subject: summer
> Hi all,
> With my BJ7 out of commission during restoration, I have missed out on a
> whole season of summer drives. As an alternative, I decided to take my
> BN1 out for a spin and ended up taking the following pix. Thought I
> would share.
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/healey_grass_red_lores.jpg
> I hope all are enjoying a splendid driving season.
> Cheers,
> John
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From Rick Neves <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 17:05:43 -0400
Subject: Sandbalsting resource
Just in case anyone in the New England area needs some sandblasting /
beadblasting work done. I've been using a guy in Holliston MA and he has
been very good. His name is Steve D'Innocenzo and his number is 508.429.0800
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
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From RAntal243 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 17:39:30 EDT
Subject: Re: missing clutch
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:49:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Values--the "XKE" Reference
> i guess the onst (only) way i'm gonna be able to chime in w/my 2p. is if
> someone will let me do an Autoweek long term loaner deal with their XKE so
i
> can make an informed opinion....:?).....................HoYo
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 2:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey Values--the "XKE" Reference
>
>
> > Regarding E Jags...
> > ...Let me make this excessively clear: if I could have any car in the
> world,
> > but only one car, it'd be an XKE. It's my all-time favorite car. I
once
> had
> > a Jag roadster as my daily driver, and the only time it let me down was
> when
> > a freeze plug went. We won't count that.
> >
> > Having said that, to paraphrase the words of a wiser man than I,
"they're
> not
> > nearly as bad as they've been made out to be, but they're not all that
> good,
> > either."
> >
> > Aside from the standard old British car weaknesses, in which the big
> Healey
> > and Jag are neck-and-neck, you've got the extra sophistication, which
> equals
> > complexity, which equals maintenance time/$$. Not quite the difference
> > between a P-51 Mustang and a Stearman, but tending in that direction.
> >
> > In particular, the time required for a valve adjustment on the Jag is in
a
> > whole other ballpark. Oil changes take 12 quarts. The inboard rear
discs
> > (wonderful for performance) are yet another adventure, as is the Jag's
use
> of
> > the rear half-axles as suspension components. Break an axle joint, and
> the
> > wheel is a-floppin'. The list is longer, but I think the point is made.
> >
> > Tom, I wouldn't, if I were you, call "BULS...." on a list populated by
> > knowledgeable people, then follow it up by trying to sell the notion
that
> > operational costs for an XKE and, say, a BJ8 are the same. Over the
long
> > haul, they ain't. That's not to say I'm unsympathetic to your point of
> view.
> > :-)
> >
> > Best,
> > --
> > John "got the T-shirt" Miller
> >
> > Prediction is very difficult, especially of the future.
> > -Niels Bohr
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:28:14 -0400
Subject: RE: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny
At a minimum, you should replace all three synchro rings
and the first and third motion shaft bearings. The BMC shop
manual has decent instructions on how to remove and replace
the gear box, as well as on how to take it apart. With
practice, you can get the gearbox out in about three and
a half to four hours. It will take about the same amount
of time to take the box apart and put it back together.
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 10:28 AM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny
My BT7 sideshift transmission has developed difficulty going into 3rd
and 4th gears.
I need to allow the revs to decrease to about 2000 RPMs before it will
"slip" in gear.
Is this a job I can tackle myself . I am assuming that I need new
syncros and perhaps
shifting forks. Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Alternativly are there any members in the Bay area with experience
enough to help me tackle this correction?
Tracy
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From Ah59bn4 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:20:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Values
Bill Percival 59 BN4 LO 75759
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 17:21:32 -0500
Subject: test
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:27:52 EDT
Subject: Re: wiper motor color?
> Does anyone know the color for a big Healey wiper
> motor housing? This is the part containing the
> armature. I can't find mention of this in the
> Concours Reg or other publications. My old unit has
> silver/gray like paint residue on it but I'm not
> exactly sure what's correct. The rest of the wiper
> motor assy is either plain alloy or zinc plated.
> Thanks for any help!
> Joe Mulqueen
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 17:31:44 -0500
Subject: Re: missing clutch
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:55:05 -0400
Subject: Re: BN1 Summer car
allen miller
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From <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:35:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey prices
but then when my peers drove mustangs and goats, I had a Pick up truck, oh
hell, that's still my "first" vehicle lol (makes me money ;) )
-----Original Message-----
From: win [mailto:win@gmi.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 12:50 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Re: Healey prices
> couple of years ago I spent the weekend at Import Carlisle and the guy
next
> to us had a restorable 67 healey for sale. Sunday afternoon he told me
> nobody under 40 even looked at it. I would really like to see more young
> people involved in our hobby to keep it alive however the prices keep them
> away.
As one of the younger people on this list (4 days away from 25) I can
identify with the statement above. I have been to some car shows with other
guys around my age and there doesn't seem to be any interest in British
cars. Most of my friends tend to gravitate to the
muscle cars or the exotics.
I'm a little different. I always had a picture in my mind of the car I
wanted. Turns out it just happened to look exactly like an Austin Healey.
Guess I got lucky. I don't make a lot of money but it was worth it to get
my "dream car." I have had it for nearly two years now. Of course, all of
my friends looked at me like I was an idiot, especially when I told them I
went all the way from Mississippi to Ohio to find a car.
All that is to say, there probably is a decline in enthusiasm about old
British cars. And money is a big issue. Obviously, if you are in college
or just out you probably don't have much money. But more importantly, I
think it is a change in the generations. Old cars just aren't quite as cool
as they used to be. Make no mistake, I turn alot of heads when I drive by
the nearby college campus. Unfortunatley, I imagine that is the only time
most college age people ever think about old cars. What a shame. They
don't know what they are missing.
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 20:11:35 EDT
Subject: Bonnet Latch on BJ8
Bernie
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 20:49:35 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
_________________________________________________________________
<b>MSN 8:</b> Get 6 months for $9.95/month.
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:09:40 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey prices
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
willy@thompsoncarpentry.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 4:35 PM
To: win
Cc: Healeys
Subject: RE: Healey prices
Win
You have got your head on straight as far as Im concerned. My son (22) is
an intelligent boy, he LOVES driving my cars, but his peer pressure takes
him toward JPM which aint all bad. If it was just his choice, and not
something dictated by peer, I wonder what he would choose?
but then when my peers drove mustangs and goats, I had a Pick up truck, oh
hell, that's still my "first" vehicle lol (makes me money ;) )
-----Original Message-----
From: win [mailto:win@gmi.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 12:50 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Re: Healey prices
> couple of years ago I spent the weekend at Import Carlisle and the guy
next
> to us had a restorable 67 healey for sale. Sunday afternoon he told me
> nobody under 40 even looked at it. I would really like to see more young
> people involved in our hobby to keep it alive however the prices keep them
> away.
As one of the younger people on this list (4 days away from 25) I can
identify with the statement above. I have been to some car shows with other
guys around my age and there doesn't seem to be any interest in British
cars. Most of my friends tend to gravitate to the
muscle cars or the exotics.
I'm a little different. I always had a picture in my mind of the car I
wanted. Turns out it just happened to look exactly like an Austin Healey.
Guess I got lucky. I don't make a lot of money but it was worth it to get
my "dream car." I have had it for nearly two years now. Of course, all of
my friends looked at me like I was an idiot, especially when I told them I
went all the way from Mississippi to Ohio to find a car.
All that is to say, there probably is a decline in enthusiasm about old
British cars. And money is a big issue. Obviously, if you are in college
or just out you probably don't have much money. But more importantly, I
think it is a change in the generations. Old cars just aren't quite as cool
as they used to be. Make no mistake, I turn alot of heads when I drive by
the nearby college campus. Unfortunatley, I imagine that is the only time
most college age people ever think about old cars. What a shame. They
don't know what they are missing.
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:09:39 -0400
Subject: body alignment
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:03:40 EDT
Subject: Re: missing clutch
> into what ? or is that supposed to be in two ?
Pardon my mistake. I did mean to say break in to pieces.
Marion
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:34:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey prices
I am so happy you are a younger person with a healey.
I'm a little on the youngish side myself (at least I
like to think so - 37, wife 28) ... and I bought my
BJ8 when I was 19 years old in college. I've never
regretted the purchase ... although from time to time
I've regretted paying for an expensive repair or two!
Check out my healeys at:
www.seigrist.com/cars.html
You have a picture of yours? Its always great fun to
know I'm the only guy in town my age with healey...
and it's even better when I find another guy my age in
town with a healey!!!
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- win <win@gmi.net> wrote:
> > couple of years ago I spent the weekend at Import
> Carlisle and the guy next
> > to us had a restorable 67 healey for sale. Sunday
> afternoon he told me
> > nobody under 40 even looked at it. I would really
> like to see more young
> > people involved in our hobby to keep it alive
> however the prices keep them
> > away.
>
> As one of the younger people on this list (4 days
> away from 25) I can identify with the statement
> above. I have been to some car shows with other
> guys around my age and there doesn't seem to be any
> interest in British cars. Most of my friends tend
> to gravitate to the
> muscle cars or the exotics.
>
> I'm a little different. I always had a picture in
> my mind of the car I wanted. Turns out it just
> happened to look exactly like an Austin Healey.
> Guess I got lucky. I don't make a lot of money but
> it was worth it to get my "dream car." I have had
> it for nearly two years now. Of course, all of my
> friends looked at me like I was an idiot, especially
> when I told them I went all the way from Mississippi
> to Ohio to find a car.
>
> All that is to say, there probably is a decline in
> enthusiasm about old British cars. And money is a
> big issue. Obviously, if you are in college or just
> out you probably don't have much money. But more
> importantly, I think it is a change in the
> generations. Old cars just aren't quite as cool as
> they used to be. Make no mistake, I turn alot of
> heads when I drive by the nearby college campus.
> Unfortunatley, I imagine that is the only time most
> college age people ever think about old cars. What
> a shame. They don't know what they are missing.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Healey prices
If the number of healeys for sale on Ebay is any
indication... it would seem the prices are primed to
drop. I've noticed a significant increase in the
number of healeys for sale on Ebay in the last 6
months...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
> This happened to E-Types about 12 years
> ago----------then, prices dipped
> and it was back to "normal" for the ones wanted to
> own one. Maybe we
> should sell at a high price and wait for the price
> to fall then buy for
> less:)
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Allen C. Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 8/20/03 7:27:31 AM
> > Subject: Healey prices
> >
> > Beware we get what we ask. I have collected things
> all my life -- coins,
> then
> > antiques; now back to cars. There is a dangerous
> side to prices rising for
> > collectibles, and it has hit home in both coins
> and antiques. Prices
> suddenly
> > soar; collectors rush in; artificial rarities are
> created; and SUDDENLY
> the
> > young and less affluent (who represent the
> majority of future buyers)
> can't
> > afford to stay in the game.
> >
> > It happened in coins 30 years again. When I was a
> little kid, everyone
> bought
> > rolls of pennies, and swapped spares. A trip to
> reputable coin dealers
> meant
> > beautify acquisitions for under $10. There were
> millions of collectors.
> Then
> > the Yuppies weighed in, and bought coins for
> investment. Suddenly, a 1955
> > double struck penny (not really all that rare) ran
> Dad two weeks pay, and
> kids
> > started to drop out. Now, hardly anyone but the
> true believers collect
> coins.
> > Greed blew out the candle of enthusiasm. You can
> buy that double struck
> penny
> > for a fraction of what it was worth in the '60's.
> >
> > Similar trends have arisen in fine antiques.
> Today, the price of good
> period
> > antiquities are way beyond the reach of young
> couples hoping to restore an
> > antique house. Fewer are trying. Auctions are
> combat zones, and only the
> top1%
> > can compete for good items. Often, those that do
> are trophy hunters, less
> > interested in the intrinsic virtues of a rare desk
> or sideboard than the
> oohs
> > and aahs it generates over what was paid. Dealers
> and knowledgeable
> > connoiseurs are falling out. Most young people
> just aren't interested in
> > getting into the game. Recently, higher-end
> antiquities have been going
> soft.
> > Price-gouging over the last two decades has
> finally come to roost. High
> end
> > dealers are sitting on huge inventories; people
> who overpaid in the '90's
> are
> > taking a beating. Why? The solid (middle income)
> buying herds have moved
> on to
> > other past-times.
> >
> > What does this have to do with Healeys? For 40
> years, there's been a warm
> > garage for even the marginal driver because the
> price was within reach.
> The
> > sustainability of the Healey"Legacy" has, in my
> opinion, been sustained
> in
> > large part because the cars could be bought for a
> decent price. This put
> > everyone, from an 18 year old college student on
> scholarship to retired
> > stockbrokers, on a level playing field. That's why
> so many Healeys are
> still
> > on the road: wide-spread interest that has
> continually drawn new blood,
> and an
> > unual number of 'hand's on' owners who don't mind
> dirty fingernails.
> >
> > My fear for the long run is that soaring prices
> will force younger
> would-be
> > Healey types to move on, perhaps to 240Z 's and
> Spyders, both of which
> can be
> > bought in driver condition for a third the cost.
> Where will this put us 20
> > years down the road?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:43:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bonnet Latch on BJ8
There are several things that can cause this ... but I
would guess it's just a matter of using some spacers
and spacing the male and female units closer together.
If that doesn't do it check the latch mechanism and
make sure the return spring is pulling the latch
closed when you pull on the rod in the cockpit.
It's best to go through a basic mechanical diagnosis
before running to the list with your problem - the
more diagnostic information you provide to us, the
more helpful we can be.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Meemeb@aol.com wrote:
> I recently purchased a 1967 BJ8 and after getting it
> home and opening the
> bonnet to tune it and adjust the valves I was unable
> to get the bonnet to latch
> when closed. The latch and bonnet release and
> return springs all seem to
> function as they should and nothing looks bent or
> out of order in the latch
> mechanism. Has anyone experienced a problem with
> getting the bonnet to latch
> properly when closed and if so what did you do to
> correct this? Is there an
> adjustment that can be made or spacers inserted
> under the latch catch at the front of
> the bonnet opening? Any and all suggestions will be
> greatly appreciated as
> this is preventing me from driving my new purchase
> for fear of the bonnet
> catching air and blowing up over the windshield.
> Thanks.
>
> Bernie
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 23:03:41 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey prices
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 9:38 PM
To: tom felts; Allen C. Miller, Jr.; healeys
Subject: RE: Healey prices
List -
If the number of healeys for sale on Ebay is any
indication... it would seem the prices are primed to
drop. I've noticed a significant increase in the
number of healeys for sale on Ebay in the last 6
months...
Cheers,
Alan
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 00:27:03 -0400
Subject: Healeys on eBay
It appears to me that they are attracting fewer bids and that the bids are
lower than those of just a year or two ago. This is not a scientific
measurement, but a definite impression that I have developed.
Theories:
1. Buying cars on eBay has gotten a bad reputation since in most cases
people are buying cars sight unseen (or is it "site" unseen?) and enough
people have been disappointed that the word is getting out that buying a car
on eBay is "a bad idea."
2. The general demand for Healeys, and perhaps for other cars as well, has
been to some large degree satisfied; i.e., a lot of people who previously
wanted one now already have one.
3. More Healeys are being offered on eBay, effectively driving the prices
(the winning/highest bids) down.
4. "The economy is bad." I HATE this theory and believe it to be utter
crap, but knowing that someone will likely bring it up, I thought I'd
mention it anyway. (I do not disagree with the idea that the media is
achieving some success in giving large numbers of people the *impression*
that the economy is "bad," but that's another story.)
5. My impression is simply incorrect.
Any other ideas or observations on this?
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>, "Allen C. Miller, Jr."
><acmiller@mhcable.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: Healey prices
>Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
>
>List -
>
>If the number of healeys for sale on Ebay is any
>indication... it would seem the prices are primed to
>drop. I've noticed a significant increase in the
>number of healeys for sale on Ebay in the last 6
>months...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
<b>Get MSN 8</b> and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:29:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
This is the unfortunate truth. I have been a Judge at the Greater
Valley Concours D'Elegance at Fresno State University the past 4 years.
It is sad to see the small group of Brass Era cars (Pre-1915) entered
by their octogenarian owners . . . several who sit along side their cars
hooked to oxygen tanks keeping them alive. Few of the younger crowd
even bother to wander over to look at the brass era cars, yet each year
the Muscle Car class gets broken into more and more subclasses.
Anyone who follows Sports Car Market magazine sees wonderful 1920's and
early 1930's cars bringing less than '57 Chevy convertibles, and even
Packards and Duesenbergs barely match the prices being paid for Hemi
Mopars.
A 1970 Plymouth Superbird (huge Nascar trunk wing) with a 440 non-hemi
sells for $97,520 at Kruse Las Vegas auction and a 1969 Dodge Daytona
Charger (same Nascar trunk wing) also with a 440 non-hemi sells for
$89,500 at Mecum in Ilinois . . . while a 1931 Cadillac roadster with
only 814 miles since restoration only brings $82,250 and a 1930 Packard
convertible with only 38 miles on a professional 8 year restoration
sells for $94,000.
I am 55 and all my classmates got our drrvers licenses the year the GTO
came out. Most of my friends shopping for the mid-life "Big Toy" are
interested in restoring muscle cars and seem to have no interest in
anything pre-WWII except to drop a 350 Chevy engine in it.
Okay . . . off my soapbox
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 23:03:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Re: wiper motor color?
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 18:27:52 EDT
From: GMari58175@aol.com
Subject: Re: wiper motor color?
Joe,
Do you have the 2003 version of the big healey
guidelines?
George Marinos
> Does anyone know the color for a big Healey wiper
> motor housing? This is the part containing the
> armature. I can't find mention of this in the
> Concours Reg or other publications. My old unit has
> silver/gray like paint residue on it but I'm not
> exactly sure what's correct. The rest of the wiper
> motor assy is either plain alloy or zinc plated.
> Thanks for any help!
> Joe Mulqueen
__________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 01:04:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Well... Leno's got a Stanley Steamer!
FYI I'll take a '30 Packard convertible over a muscle
car any day! Even Stalin had the smarts to take the
Packard Limo factory and rename it the Zil. Alas, the
commies later took the FIAT factory and called it the
LADA... I suppose everything eventually settles to the
lowest common denominator. It's the only reason why
the Romans built the Coliseum - the mob. And now the
mob pays through the nose for MOPAR steel ... which at
the end of the day was a cheap car for the masses.
Deuseys & Auburns are still pretty expensive....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> "My guess is where Model T and Model A Fords are.
> Not much interest
> anymore. As we all know, the restoration hobby is
> pretty much based on
> people trying to buy the car they always wanted when
> they were young."
>
> This is the unfortunate truth. I have been a Judge
> at the Greater
> Valley Concours D'Elegance at Fresno State
> University the past 4 years.
> It is sad to see the small group of Brass Era cars
> (Pre-1915) entered
> by their octogenarian owners . . . several who sit
> along side their cars
> hooked to oxygen tanks keeping them alive. Few of
> the younger crowd
> even bother to wander over to look at the brass era
> cars, yet each year
> the Muscle Car class gets broken into more and more
> subclasses.
>
> Anyone who follows Sports Car Market magazine sees
> wonderful 1920's and
> early 1930's cars bringing less than '57 Chevy
> convertibles, and even
> Packards and Duesenbergs barely match the prices
> being paid for Hemi
> Mopars.
>
> A 1970 Plymouth Superbird (huge Nascar trunk wing)
> with a 440 non-hemi
> sells for $97,520 at Kruse Las Vegas auction and a
> 1969 Dodge Daytona
> Charger (same Nascar trunk wing) also with a 440
> non-hemi sells for
> $89,500 at Mecum in Ilinois . . . while a 1931
> Cadillac roadster with
> only 814 miles since restoration only brings $82,250
> and a 1930 Packard
> convertible with only 38 miles on a professional 8
> year restoration
> sells for $94,000.
>
> I am 55 and all my classmates got our drrvers
> licenses the year the GTO
> came out. Most of my friends shopping for the
> mid-life "Big Toy" are
> interested in restoring muscle cars and seem to have
> no interest in
> anything pre-WWII except to drop a 350 Chevy engine
> in it.
>
> Okay . . . off my soapbox
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:28:51 +1000
Subject: Healey site updates
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 08:27:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:01:32 -0400
Subject: Healey prices
3+ million Z-3's, and probably a couple million Z-4's, more than a few of
which we'll be seeing on Ebay.
a few hundred thousand Boxsters (I.m guessing)
xx,000 Healeys if you add up the registries throw in a few thousand barn
finds and other unaccounteds out there.
Given the comparative rarity of Healeys, and (hopefully) their continued ease
of being maintained by the Sunday mechanic, I think they represent a good bet
for sustaining
value against inflation. In fact, the Healey population is ideal: there enough
of them to suport the continued supply of parts; few enough of them to be
desirable.
Allen Miller BN2/M
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:07:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Update to Healey Site
Jim in CT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:30 AM
Subject: Update to Healey Site
> Hello Everyone
> The latest addition to the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site is an
> update on the Blair Harber AHX12 Targa project, which appears to be
> progressing on time and at the usual high standard. Also featured is an
> update on the DMD Australia 3000 alloy block project. On a personal note
> it is great to see Dave Woodhouse back at DMD after serious illness and
> the engine block project underway again in earnest. I should add that
> I'm currently working on rebuilding the DMD web site, so hopefully
> before too much longer, more information will be available ( excuse the
> commercial!).
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 08:33:32 -0500
Subject: RE: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny - somewhat related
The synchros in my car are truly awful, but otherwise tranny shifts
smoothly and no nasty noises. And the O/D is fine and doesn't need
rebuilding, so I'd be willing to take a crack at the tranny myself if
it's a semi-plausible job.
I'm a fairly experienced wrench-turner on Brit cars, only screwing
things up about half the time.
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Schauss [mailto:schauss@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 6:28 PM
To: Tracy Drummond; Healeys
Subject: RE: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny
Tracy,
At a minimum, you should replace all three synchro rings
and the first and third motion shaft bearings. The BMC shop manual has
decent instructions on how to remove and replace the gear box, as well
as on how to take it apart. With practice, you can get the gearbox out
in about three and a half to four hours. It will take about the same
amount of time to take the box apart and put it back together.
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tracy Drummond
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 10:28 AM
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny
My BT7 sideshift transmission has developed difficulty going into 3rd
and 4th gears.
I need to allow the revs to decrease to about 2000 RPMs before it will
"slip" in gear.
Is this a job I can tackle myself . I am assuming that I need new
syncros and perhaps
shifting forks. Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Alternativly are there any members in the Bay area with experience
enough to help me tackle this correction?
Tracy
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:31:45 +0800
Subject: Canada trip
Can anyone advise if there are any Healey activities on in late September and
early October on the West Coast and/or Alberta?
Also any down to Seattle?. Unfortunately we will only be in Washington State
for a very short time.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 06:59:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey site updates
It would also be great to know how the DMD speed equipment fares against the
other brands, such as Denis Welch, and whether any USA distributors are
planned for their speed equipment.
More info about DMD in general.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> Reply-To: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:28:51 +1000
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Healey site updates
>
> Hello Everyone
> The latest addition to the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site is an
> update on the Blair Harber AHX12 Targa project, which appears to be
> progressing on time and at the usual high standard. Also featured is an
> update on the DMD Australia 3000 alloy block project. On a personal note
> it is great to see Dave Woodhouse back at DMD after serious illness and
> the engine block project underway again in earnest. I should add that
> I'm currently working on rebuilding the DMD web site, so hopefully
> before too much longer, more information will be available ( excuse the
> commercial!).
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
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From "Wm. Thompson" <willy at thompsoncarpentry.com>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:05:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey site updates
Willy
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Varley [mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au]
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:29 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey site updates
Hello Everyone
The latest addition to the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site is an
update on the Blair Harber AHX12 Targa project, which appears to be
progressing on time and at the usual high standard. Also featured is an
update on the DMD Australia 3000 alloy block project. On a personal note
it is great to see Dave Woodhouse back at DMD after serious illness and
the engine block project underway again in earnest. I should add that
I'm currently working on rebuilding the DMD web site, so hopefully
before too much longer, more information will be available ( excuse the
commercial!).
Cheers
Larry Varley
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "HoYo" <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:58:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
Good observations, Reid.
Another impression I've certainly gotten after closely examining text and
pictures of these cars on Ebay (especially the ones with high asking prices)
is that even on the info supplied one can find many incorrect things about
them. This would leave the knowlegeable shopper with the impression that
there are probably many more "incorrect" things the buyer will have to set
money and time aside to rectify. Paint and correct interior trim doesn't
come cheap!
This doesn't make them bad cars, it simply sets them in the general
"average" category but with "perfect car" asking prices.
We've certainly seen that happen over the years; a truly correct car that
would score Gold in a Concours field gets sold for a justifiable top dollar,
and suddenly everybody thinks their car is worth as much.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 10:15:41 -0400
Subject: re. Re: wiper motor color?
> George,
> I purchased my guidlines from the Concours Registry in
> 2000 and can't find mention of the wiper motor.
> Someone said 4 cyl cars have a black housing. I
> carefully degreased mine and there's no black but
> there is a silvery gray paint. Do you know if that's
> correct?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
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From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:27:31 -0500
Subject: Healey radiator fan - what color?
Thanks.
Graham
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From Dancoqa at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 10:36:37 EDT
Subject: Missing Pic
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 12:13:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Buyer beware which is to say do your homework and then follow the wise
counsel given in the past. Buy the best car you can afford given what you want
to
do with it. Then you will be happy and not worry so much about what the values
are going to do.
Just my opinion,
Gary Fuqua
BN2 & BJ8
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 12:35:19 -0400
Subject: RE: Healeys on eBay
Thanks for the "On List" response (I got several off list responses, too).
OK, so let's factor in the present state of the economy.
Theories:
1. Healeys have recently achieved record high prices; the ecomony is the
strongest it has ever been.
2. The ecomony is so bad that people are bailing out of traditional
investments and putting their money in collectibles.
3. The ecomony is so bad that people are selling their homes and buying
Healeys, to live in.
4. Maybe eBay is getting a bad rep, and prices for Healeys in other venues
are continuing to rise. Could be...)
5. The overall ecomony is not affecting prices achieved on ebay; eBay is a
special case and other factors are affecting the number and amount of bids
received there.
6. None of the above.
I'm not an economist, but I play one in the voting booth...
;-)
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
>To: "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: Healeys on eBay
>Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 07:51:47 -0400
>
>we all need to factor in the present state of the economy....
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 12:27 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Healeys on eBay
>
>
>I've been following Healeys on eBay since about 1998 (when I learned of
>eBay
>thanks to Herman Farrer). I have noticed what I think is a trend there,
>regarding Healeys:
>
>It appears to me that they are attracting fewer bids and that the bids are
>lower than those of just a year or two ago. This is not a scientific
>measurement, but a definite impression that I have developed.
>
>Theories:
>
>1. Buying cars on eBay has gotten a bad reputation since in most cases
>people are buying cars sight unseen (or is it "site" unseen?) and enough
>people have been disappointed that the word is getting out that buying a
>car
>on eBay is "a bad idea."
>
>2. The general demand for Healeys, and perhaps for other cars as well, has
>been to some large degree satisfied; i.e., a lot of people who previously
>wanted one now already have one.
>
>3. More Healeys are being offered on eBay, effectively driving the prices
>(the winning/highest bids) down.
>
>4. "The economy is bad." I HATE this theory and believe it to be utter
>crap, but knowing that someone will likely bring it up, I thought I'd
>mention it anyway. (I do not disagree with the idea that the media is
>achieving some success in giving large numbers of people the *impression*
>that the economy is "bad," but that's another story.)
>
>5. My impression is simply incorrect.
>
>Any other ideas or observations on this?
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>
> >From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> >To: tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net>, "Allen C. Miller, Jr."
> ><acmiller@mhcable.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: RE: Healey prices
> >Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >List -
> >
> >If the number of healeys for sale on Ebay is any
> >indication... it would seem the prices are primed to
> >drop. I've noticed a significant increase in the
> >number of healeys for sale on Ebay in the last 6
> >months...
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
<b>Get MSN 8</b> and help protect your children with advanced parental
controls. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/parental
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 13:47:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Just in Time video
--- "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com> wrote: << To all,
Thank you for your quick replies to this offer. I had over 50+ orders in 24
hours.
Apparently, the club in the UK is having a memorial service for Roger on May
18th. It appears if I
make a quick trip to the city today, I can have DVD's ready to ship by
mid-week... including
getting one over to the UK for the service.
Some of you have already paid via PayPal, or mailed checks. Thank you. Those of
you that have not,
now is a good time to do so.
Shipping costs will be $3.95 for USPS Priority mail in the US. Those of you
outside of the US,
toss in a few extra bucks, and we'll call it even. This isn't business... it's
charity.
I'll consider a run of 75 DVDs at this piont, in order to serve orders that
have not yet been
made. If any of you clubs out there would like to order a quantity for resale
to your locals,
please do so quickly so I can account for this in my duplication.
PayPal to
wsthompson@thicko.com
Checks to
Wm. Severin Thompson
20560 W. Woodland Ave.
Lake Villa, IL 60046
USA
Thanks. WST
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:35:41 -0400
Subject: Intake Surround Screws Needed
The surround piece for the air intake (on the bonnet) on the early 6 cylinder
cars had three mounting holes visable at the top which was later redesigned
without these holes. I need to locate the proper screws for this part. If
anyone happens to know where I can obtain these, or maybe could describe what
type of screw was used, I would be most greatful.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
'57 BN4
'59 TR3A
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From Dancoqa at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:45:09 EDT
Subject: missing pic
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 17:51:31 +0100
Subject: Re: re. Re: wiper motor color?
All the best
>The BN1 wiper motors were finished in a black wrinkle paint. The BN2 and
>beyond (self parking) were bare alloy with a hammertone silver grey on the
>motor housing only. This can easily be masked and sprayed.
>Rich Chrysler
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
>To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 2:03 AM
>Subject: re. Re: wiper motor color?
>
>
>> George,
>> I purchased my guidlines from the Concours Registry in
>> 2000 and can't find mention of the wiper motor.
>> Someone said 4 cyl cars have a black housing. I
>> carefully degreased mine and there's no black but
>> there is a silvery gray paint. Do you know if that's
>> correct?
>> Thanks,
>> Joe Mulqueen
>> '60 BT7
>
--
John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:43:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey radiator fan - what color?
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 18:50:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Kumho 165/15 Series 771 tires
http://www.coopertires.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=Passenger&id=32
Anybody try them yet?
Dave
1967 BJ8
Patton Dickson wrote:
>Kumho still lists it on their website....
>
>http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=771
>
>-----Original Message-----
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From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Kingpin
I am reassembling my kingpin after having them
rebushed and was curious what if any grease/oil I
should put on the "oilite" washers. Did not see it in
the instructions.
Thanks,
Rich
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 09:48:07 +1000
Subject: Re: Update to Healey Site
AH102 wrote:
> Larry: I must compliment and congratulate you again on your wonderful
> website. I am following with great interest the Targa project and the alloy
> block project. The photos and text are outstanding and the entire website
> is of great interest to me and I'm sure others. We big Healey folks are
> indeed fortunate to have access to it. Thanks for sharing it with us.
>
> Jim in CT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> To: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:30 AM
> Subject: Update to Healey Site
>
> > Hello Everyone
> > The latest addition to the Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site is an
> > update on the Blair Harber AHX12 Targa project, which appears to be
> > progressing on time and at the usual high standard. Also featured is an
> > update on the DMD Australia 3000 alloy block project. On a personal note
> > it is great to see Dave Woodhouse back at DMD after serious illness and
> > the engine block project underway again in earnest. I should add that
> > I'm currently working on rebuilding the DMD web site, so hopefully
> > before too much longer, more information will be available ( excuse the
> > commercial!).
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:48:33 -0400
Subject: cold air box adaptor
Please respond off-list, thanks,
CB
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:13:04 -0500
Subject: Re: 1960 BT7 sideshift tranny - somewhat related
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:30:02 EDT
Subject: Shade of black (Suspension parts)
Lony Taylor
1963 BJ-7
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:48:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Kingpin
The Oilite washers are sintered bronze, with microscopic pores in them that
will retain lubricating oil. They are intended to be self-lubricating, but
I like to soak similar parts in engine oil for 24 hours or so before using
them.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
From: Rich Holman
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 7:00 PM
Subject: Kingpin
Greeting,
I am reassembling my kingpin after having them
rebushed and was curious what if any grease/oil I
should put on the "oilite" washers. Did not see it in
the instructions.
Thanks,
Rich
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 20:48:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: re. Re: wiper motor color?
--- Rich C <richchrysler@quickclic.net> wrote:
> Hi Joe,
> The BN1 wiper motors were finished in a black
> wrinkle paint. The BN2 and
> beyond (self parking) were bare alloy with a
> hammertone silver grey on the
> motor housing only. This can easily be masked and
> sprayed.
> Rich Chrysler
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
> To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 2:03 AM
> Subject: re. Re: wiper motor color?
>
>
> > George,
> > I purchased my guidlines from the Concours
> Registry in
> > 2000 and can't find mention of the wiper motor.
> > Someone said 4 cyl cars have a black housing. I
> > carefully degreased mine and there's no black but
> > there is a silvery gray paint. Do you know if
> that's
> > correct?
> > Thanks,
> > Joe Mulqueen
> > '60 BT7
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:16:11 -0700
Subject: AHX12 Restoration
Blair, I again want to thank you for providing the opportunity for all of us
to get a chance to see the gorgeous AHX14 at Tahoe last year. What a treat.
And to think you autocrossed it!
Mike, with all the work you've been doing on AHX12, I don't know how you find
the time to provide so much help to us on the Healey List. Thanks.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 23:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey site updates
Word on the street is the John Chatham wants to use
the 3.8 liter motor in his "new" healeys he's making
from scratch and selling as a new car in the UK.
Regarding the DMD guys... I've never bought anything
from them, but I can promise you they are first class
gentlemen!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com> wrote:
> I too am excited about the DMD engine and about
> DMD's products in general
> and would crave more info on what the thinking
> behind the engine is, the
> pricing and the market for them.
>
> It would also be great to know how the DMD speed
> equipment fares against the
> other brands, such as Denis Welch, and whether any
> USA distributors are
> planned for their speed equipment.
>
> More info about DMD in general.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> > Reply-To: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
> > Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:28:51 +1000
> > To: "healeys@autox.team.net"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Healey site updates
> >
> > Hello Everyone
> > The latest addition to the Austin Healey 100
> Restoration Site is an
> > update on the Blair Harber AHX12 Targa project,
> which appears to be
> > progressing on time and at the usual high
> standard. Also featured is an
> > update on the DMD Australia 3000 alloy block
> project. On a personal note
> > it is great to see Dave Woodhouse back at DMD
> after serious illness and
> > the engine block project underway again in
> earnest. I should add that
> > I'm currently working on rebuilding the DMD web
> site, so hopefully
> > before too much longer, more information will be
> available ( excuse the
> > commercial!).
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/index.html
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 11:19:08 +0200
Subject: Re: Kingpin
I used to be the Dutch agent for Oilite. Their recommendation is to submerge
the bearing(s) in any type of engine oil you have around, heat to 90 degrees
C (approx. 194 F), take away the heat source and let the oil cool to room
temp with the bearings still submerged. Take the bearings out , which by now
should have expelled all air from the pores and replaced by oil.
(Just did mine).
Regards
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From Dancoqa at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 06:59:12 EDT
Subject: Missing Pic
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 21:57:33 +1000
Subject: DMD
The DMD website is currently under reconstruction, so there isn't any more
information currently available.
But I can give you some insight into DMD - Max Hooper & Dave Woodhouse - as
I have followed DMD's progress since Max started running in the All Healey
races here in Australia in 1998.
DMD produce a wide range of items for Healeys - Alloy Heads, alloy blocks,
Manifolds, high lift roller rocker gear, low profile sumps etc. All
extremely high quality, high performance stuff.
Typically, DMD do things without being constrained by the appearance or
design of the original component. So DMD design & make things which are
'better' than standard components, and which therefore often don't look like
the original component. Typically, DMD products aren't homologated for
historic racing - because they aren't designed as 'reproductions' - which
obviously doesn't matter if you don't intend to go historic racing!! Their
components are, however often used in 'Marque sports' cars, and road/race
'Targa' cars - where the rules are more liberal.
Which is probably the major difference between what Denis Welch does, and
what DMD does.
For example - if you have ever had a close look at a Denis Welch alloy
cylinder head - it looks no differerent to the factory alloy Cylinder head
eg. on Joe Armours ex Sebring 1966 Healey GT or the factory alloy Head on
the Ross Bond Healey - except for the fact that it has Dennis welch cast on
it - ie it 'looks' like a Healey cylinder head, is configured the same way
etc. In fact, the only 'aftermarket' Cylinder head which is accepted by the
FIA in Appendix K Historic racing is the Denis Welch head - See page 20 of
http://www.fia.com/regle/annexe_K/Annk03-a.pdf - primarily because it is an
accurate 'copy' of the original.
The DMD head had a totally different design to an original healey head
casting, and has inclined valves, and 'stepped' porting - look at the
picture of the cylinder head sitting on the block on Larry's website and
you'll see what I mean. When used with the DMD roller rocker setup - which
is integral with the rocker cover (like many Ford 1500/ 1600cc rocker set
ups - the rocker cover and the pedestals are integrated together, and you
gain access to adjust the valves by removing a flat 'lid on top') - it is an
impressive setup - but looks totally different to an original one.
So Denis and DMD tend to cater to different markets. Both make great, well
engineered stuff - but it appeals to different people, and it is acceptable
in different classes of motorsport. The DMD 3.8 litre Alloy engine is
designed to appeal to the Healey owner who is considering a nasty boy/
engine swap as the only way to get enough BHP - or the owner who wants more
grunt from a 'healey' 6 cyl engine without the inherent unreliability of
boring a cast iron engine out to 3.3 litres; or the racer who is in a class
where that level of modification is allowed.
Dennis Welch has a much larger range of items for Healeys - not just engine
components - but also suspension, gearsets, brakes etc - DMD really
concentrates on engines/induction etc
I spoke to John Chatham a while ago about the DMD block, and he said he had
many European customers who would love to have the extra grunt, and better
handling that the DMD alloy block would offer. It's that 'sort of half way'
to a nasty boy step - and an alloy block is 'sort of' vindicated by the fact
that the factory made some alloy blocks.
I haven't heard recent pricing on the alloy block now that they are in
production.
You can contact Max Hooper, who is a very nice guy, about his company's
products at maxhooper@dmdaustralia.com.au
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: Healey site updates
> I too am excited about the DMD engine and about DMD's products in general
> and would crave more info on what the thinking behind the engine is, the
> pricing and the market for them.
>
> It would also be great to know how the DMD speed equipment fares against
the
> other brands, such as Denis Welch, and whether any USA distributors are
> planned for their speed equipment.
>
> More info about DMD in general.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 08:30:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake Surround Screws Needed
Thanks Keith and everyone else for your replies. The unanimous answer is that
there were no holes in this part. What boggles my mind is that mine has three
holes for mounting three screws from the top, and they don't appear to be
fabricated. Is it possible that this was an early or temporary design that was
later improved?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Longbridge 100-6
In a message dated 8/22/2003 1:43:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pennell@whro.net
writes:
> Scott,
>
> The screws which your refer to do not exist. There are 3 studs on the
> chrome trim piece which pass through the holes in the air
> intake you
> mention.
>
> Keith Pennell
> Hello,
>
> The surround piece for the air intake (on the bonnet) on the early 6 cylinder
> cars had three mounting holes visable at the top which was later redesigned
> without these holes. I need to locate the proper screws for this part. If
>anyone
> happens to know where I can obtain these, or maybe could describe what type of
> screw was used, I would be most greatful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
> Northern Indiana
> '57 BN4
> '59 TR3A
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 09:20:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil change Freq?
Bob Johnson
>
> Hi Bob,
> Quick question. It appears from your post that you can simply start using
> synthetic oil anytime you want. Is that true? Is there some procedure to
> follow to switch a car that has been using regular oil to synthetic?
Thanks
> for the help.
>
> Heard Saxon
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 09:19:56 -0400
Subject: tonneaus 100-4
Two questions, with apologies for dwelling on the trivial:
1. Car was originally and still is Healey Blue; can anyone confirm that
original tonneau would, or would not, have been blue in color?
2. I would like to transfer the old snaps to the new cover. They have a
nice weathered nickel color and sharp lettering, giving a sense of patina
absent on the replica ones. I'm stumped how to do that without ripping the old
cover, which I'd like to preserve, or damaging the base plates. How do you
unscrew the snaps without biting the cloth. Also, is there a tool to grip in
the two tiny holes, or you you fashion one (e.g., with a block of wood and two
finish nails, etc.)
The old tonneau is repairable, but the zipper is losing its teeth faster than
an '80 year old Snickers addict. If anyone thinks it might be original,
notwithstanding the color, I'll try to restore it. It has the rusty metal
inserts like old ones did. (The new one is authentically crafted, but has
intelligently substituted cloth loops for the plates, which tend to mar the
paint).
allen miller
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 07:49:30 -0700
Subject: Re: DMD
Thanks especially for explaining why the Welch head is certified and others
aren't. Welch's info seems to imply theirs is the only one that meets some
kind of race performance/reliability criteria--when in reality it's an
appearance thing.
--
Steve
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 13:28:52 EDT
Subject: Re: tonneaus 100-4
Not sure how to take the snaps apart without damaging them or the material.
Another thought (if you are not repairing the original) is to cut out the old
snap with about a 2" square of the original tonneau material still attached.
Carefully slice out the new snap in the new tonneau. Take it to a commercial
tarp company to resew the old snap into the new tonneau. They have threads to
match most colors and it would look like the normal stitch to hold the backing
support for the snap.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 13:38:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Tunnel Cover
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 13:34:54 -0400
Subject: tonneaus 100-4
> I just bought a new blue tonneau for the BN2/M, and like it apart from the
> lack of detail in the presently-unattached lift-snaps. They appear to have
> 'made in England', etc, but are not as crisp as the ones on the old cover,
> which, if not original, is quite old, albeit black
>
> Two questions, with apologies for dwelling on the trivial:
>
> 1. Car was originally and still is Healey Blue; can anyone confirm
that
> original tonneau would, or would not, have been blue in color?
>
> 2. I would like to transfer the old snaps to the new cover. They have a
> nice weathered nickel color and sharp lettering, giving a sense of patina
> absent on the replica ones. I'm stumped how to do that without ripping the
old
> cover, which I'd like to preserve, or damaging the base plates. How do you
> unscrew the snaps without biting the cloth. Also, is there a tool to grip
in
> the two tiny holes, or you you fashion one (e.g., with a block of wood and
two
> finish nails, etc.)
>
> The old tonneau is repairable, but the zipper is losing its teeth faster
than
> an '80 year old Snickers addict. If anyone thinks it might be original,
> notwithstanding the color, I'll try to restore it. It has the rusty metal
> inserts like old ones did. (The new one is authentically crafted, but has
> intelligently substituted cloth loops for the plates, which tend to mar
the
> paint).
>
> allen miller
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 11:43:46 -0700
Subject: Re: AHX12 Restoration
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Soderling" <jsoderling@ca.astound.net>
---snip---
>
> Blair, I again want to thank you for providing the opportunity for all of
us
> to get a chance to see the gorgeous AHX14 at Tahoe last year. What a
treat.
> And to think you autocrossed it!
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 16:44:29 -0500
Subject: Vintage DMH / Invicta 1931 Monte Carlo Rally Photos
I stumbled across some great historical DMH photos showing him with his 1931
Invicta at the Monte Carlo rally. In addition there are some good recent
color photos of the car. I thought some of you might find it interesting
reading and probably some rarely seen early DMH photos. The info can be
found at the bottom of the page of this link:
http://www.cedarclassiccars.com/sale.htm.
I hope you enjoy and have a great weekend.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 19:56:09 -0400
Subject: over flow
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 19:24:32 -0500
Subject: Re: over flow
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 17:31:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 17:55:17 -0700
Subject: Re: over flow
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> Reply-To: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 19:24:32 -0500
> To: stjepkem@optonline.net, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: over flow
>
> remove the rubber washer from the cap furnished with the overflow bottle kit
> and install it on your stock healey long-neck cap. you should now have water
> flowing both ways even though it should be only a 7 lb. cap.
> Steven Tjepkema wrote:
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 17:57:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:39:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
Bob Denton (who agrees with David Smith)
David Smith wrote:
>I've noticed that the prices all the collectibles I follow on eBay have
>declined over the past 2 years. Especially since 9/11. It's the economy.
>Look at the financial losses in the stock market. People ARE poorer. Of
>course everyone is effected differently. If you're a computer engineer in the
>dot com industry, it's the Great Depression. If you're a California home
>owner, the economy's pretty good. But were talking about non-essential items,
>which are the first to go when money get's tight. When the economy improves,
>I think Healey prices will, too.
>
>David Smith
>BJ8
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From David Smith <bighealeydude at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 20:10:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Healeys on eBay
Reid Trummel <ah_magazine@hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi Fred,
Thanks for the "On List" response (I got several off list responses, too).
OK, so let's factor in the present state of the economy.
Theories:
1. Healeys have recently achieved record high prices; the ecomony is the
strongest it has ever been.
2. The ecomony is so bad that people are bailing out of traditional
investments and putting their money in collectibles.
3. The ecomony is so bad that people are selling their homes and buying
Healeys, to live in.
4. Maybe eBay is getting a bad rep, and prices for Healeys in other venues
are continuing to rise. Could be...)
5. The overall ecomony is not affecting prices achieved on ebay; eBay is a
special case and other factors are affecting the number and amount of bids
received there.
6. None of the above.
I'm not an economist, but I play one in the voting booth...
;-)
Cheers,
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Scheuble, Fred"
>To: "Reid Trummel" ,
>Subject: RE: Healeys on eBay
>Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 07:51:47 -0400
>
>we all need to factor in the present state of the economy....
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Reid Trummel [mailto:ah_magazine@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 12:27 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Healeys on eBay
>
>
>I've been following Healeys on eBay since about 1998 (when I learned of
>eBay
>thanks to Herman Farrer). I have noticed what I think is a trend there,
>regarding Healeys:
>
>It appears to me that they are attracting fewer bids and that the bids are
>lower than those of just a year or two ago. This is not a scientific
>measurement, but a definite impression that I have developed.
>
>Theories:
>
>1. Buying cars on eBay has gotten a bad reputation since in most cases
>people are buying cars sight unseen (or is it "site" unseen?) and enough
>people have been disappointed that the word is getting out that buying a
>car
>on eBay is "a bad idea."
>
>2. The general demand for Healeys, and perhaps for other cars as well, has
>been to some large degree satisfied; i.e., a lot of people who previously
>wanted one now already have one.
>
>3. More Healeys are being offered on eBay, effectively driving the prices
>(the winning/highest bids) down.
>
>4. "The economy is bad." I HATE this theory and believe it to be utter
>crap, but knowing that someone will likely bring it up, I thought I'd
>mention it anyway. (I do not disagree with the idea that the media is
>achieving some success in giving large numbers of people the *impression*
>that the economy is "bad," but that's another story.)
>
>5. My impression is simply incorrect.
>
>Any other ideas or observations on this?
>
>Reid
>
>Reid Trummel
>Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
>http://www.healey.org
>
>
> >From: Blue One Hundred
> >Reply-To: Blue One Hundred
> >To: tom felts , "Allen C. Miller, Jr."
> >, healeys
> >Subject: RE: Healey prices
> >Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:38:26 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >List -
> >
> >If the number of healeys for sale on Ebay is any
> >indication... it would seem the prices are primed to
> >drop. I've noticed a significant increase in the
> >number of healeys for sale on Ebay in the last 6
> >months...
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From "John Soderling" <jsoderling at ca.astound.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 21:17:45 -0700
Subject: Erika's Vrooom Vroooming Again
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 23:01:06 -0600
Subject: Re: over flow
If this doesn't work look for a Napa #703-1411 cap with a rubber top
seal. This # seems to come with a rubber seal or a brass seal. You just
have to check them. Also make sure that the radiator to bottle
connections have absolutely NO vacuum leaks.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jerry Wall wrote:
> remove the rubber washer from the cap furnished with the overflow
> bottle kit and install it on your stock healey long-neck cap. you
> should now have water flowing both ways even though it should be only
> a 7 lb. cap. Steven Tjepkema wrote:
>>> Hi everybody I have a question about my over flow bottle I
>>> installed. When the
>> car gets hot I found it dumps a little but it never drains back to
>> the radiator I am using the stock cap. Any help on this,
>> Thanks Steven 58bn4
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 00:26:03 -0500
Subject: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
I have posted pictures of the car are here if you want to look....
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/1960_austin.htm
- The side shift transmission is in need of repair. First has a chip in it,
and second is noisy. The overdrive used to work, but after sitting for
years, does not engage (it could just use service). I have two things to
think about here. 1st, do I rebuild this original unit or do I go with the
5 speed. How much of a cost/default difference is there between the two.
Is the difficulty and time of the work about the same between the two?
- RUST!!! The most feared word to me. There actually wasn't much rust that
I could find but there were a couple of places. 1st, there is a place
rusted through on the front extension on the frame where the two bolt holes
are (what are they for anyway) Everything else seems pretty sound, and it
looks containable. I guess that it needs to be cut out and patched to stop
the growth. Is that a big deal? Pricey?
- RUST Part 2!!!! There are a couple of small rust bubbles on the drivers
side, but the real concern is the passenger fender. There is a large bubble
where the paint is lifting from a bad repair to fill a spot where a side
mirror used to be. Can an area around the size of a silver dollar be
sanded, treated and painted with a decent job on blending? This is supposed
to be a driver, not a show car, and I cannot afford to re-spray.
- Seats. The seat bottoms in the car are not correct, they are on plywood
and are pillow like instead of angled back. This makes my leg rub on the
steering wheel. Are the correct seat bottoms hard to find? What do other
big guys do about room for your legs between the seat and steering wheel?
- The bottom of the driver door does not fit the contour of the car. It is
not coming in on the top side like a sagging frame would do, it just looks a
little sprung out?
- The car has bead setting for several years, and the tires are squared, so
I will have to replace the set
- The only other thing is that the carbs are set a little rich, and there is
a some black smoke. I have been told that I need to also replace the
diaphragms.
There are several good points
- Engine very good condition
- No rust in other "typical Healey" rust areas that I could find
- New fuel tank
- Newly hydraulic systems
- New soft top still in box
- 72-spoke wheels
- Known history of the car and endorsements of those I trust as to it's
condition.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 00:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Erika's Vrooom Vroooming Again
Getting the shorty set gearwrench makes very quick
work of these hard to get bolts... It's a worthwhile
set of tools to get if you have a healey....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Soderling <jsoderling@ca.astound.net> wrote:
> Thanks to the list for the help in diagnosing my
> leaking carb. I decided to
> replace both diaphragms myself. Never been in a
> carburetor before. Kind of
> fun. Took 45 minutes to remove them, 60 minutes to
> clean them up and replace
> the diaphragms, and about an hour to put them back
> on and connect everything
> back up. Much of the time was spent trying to
> remove and put back on the two
> underside bolts on each carb - have to do it all
> blind and by feel - tight
> quarters. Everything is tight and dry the first
> time.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 18:01:53 +1000
Subject: Re: DMD
OK - there are 4 different alloy heads for 6 cyl Healeys that I am aware of.
I don't own any of them. They are, in no particular order - Denis Welch;
Original factory alloy Head; Southern Carburettors, and DMD.
Let me just clarify my previous statement by saying that I understand that
the Denis Welch head is certified by the FIA because it is an accurate
reproduction of the Factory alloy head. It not only looks like the factory
head - but the ports are in the same place as on the factory head etc - ie
it is a replica of the factory head - but obviously as it is being made 30
plus years later, the metalurgy used, heat treatment, casting wall thickness
accuracy etc are much better than the original factory alloy heads. And its
brand new - and doesn't have 30 plus years of use.
So it would be more 'reliable' than the original factory alloy head -
because of the alloy used, the heat treatment method etc.
The original factory alloy heads are pretty rare - I know of 2 in sydney -
both have been on the cars for over 30 years - Joe's Sebring Healey GT, and
the Ross Bond Healey.
The other alloy head I am aware of are those made by Southern Carburettors,
but I haven't seen one of those for a while. These were probably the 'first'
repros of the factory head - and were reasonably accurate to the original
in design in most areas - ie there were no radical departures like moving
port location or valve location etc, but I think there were some material
/heat treatment issues with early ones.
The DMD head is purpose designed for a Healey, and is not constrained by
original Healey appearance or Healey design.
As to which is the 'best' - the only 'measure' I have is lap times and race
placings - and that's a measure of the performance of the entire car
package - including the driver and the chassis - not just the cylinder
head.
All Healey racing here in Australia over the last 5 years has shown that
cast iron head cars are often as competitive as alloy head cars - and the
real differentiator is actually the use of forged steel aftermarket
crankshafts (Welch, DMD, Sainty, Shugg, etc) which totally change the
characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it to rev past 7,500rpm. The
steel forged crank is providing the higher revs - and its the revs which is
make the huge power.
Denis Welch won both all Healey races at Bathurst in 1998 - but the late
Peter Hopwood - in a cast iron headed car - set the (still current) Bathurst
Healey Lap record.
Of the alloy heads, I suspect that the Denis Welch head has the most race
wins.
I hope that clarifies it a bit better.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: DMD
> Chris,
> Thanks for the DMD info. That's exactly what I was looking for!
>
> Thanks especially for explaining why the Welch head is certified and
others
> aren't. Welch's info seems to imply theirs is the only one that meets some
> kind of race performance/reliability criteria--when in reality it's an
> appearance thing.
> --
> Steve
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 01:26:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 00:26:03 -0500
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today
(long)
As I said last week, I am in the market for a driver
Healey. Today I looked at a 1960 BT7.....
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 06:28:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
The world is divided into time zones. Because of these time zones the
time at any given moment is an hour later for each time zone border you
cross over going east. The net result is that when you receive an email
from someone farther east than you are, it appears that they are writing
to you from your future. Don't fret, it's really only an illusion.
Bob Denton (who wrote an email very early Sunday morning)
Scheuble, Fred wrote:
>well, he's not working in the computer field and specifically
>telecommunications, (look at the time of the post of this e-mail, it's sat and
>I'm at work....)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 12:40 AM
>To: David Smith
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Healeys on eBay
>
>
>Don't let Reid Trummel hear you say the economy is bad. He claims that
>all this talk about a bad economy is a liberal plot. He says all is great.
>
>Bob Denton (who agrees with David Smith)
>
>David Smith wrote:
>
>
>
>>I've noticed that the prices all the collectibles I follow on eBay have
>declined over the past 2 years. Especially since 9/11. It's the economy.
>Look at the financial losses in the stock market. People ARE poorer. Of
>course everyone is effected differently. If you're a computer engineer in the
>dot com industry, it's the Great Depression. If you're a California home
>owner, the economy's pretty good. But were talking about non-essential items,
>which are the first to go when money get's tight. When the economy improves,
>I think Healey prices will, too.
>>
>>David Smith
>>BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 06:18:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Erika's Vrooom Vroooming Again
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 08:26:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
________________________________________________________________
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 09:07:00 EDT
Subject: Re:Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
Scott McPherson
BN4Longbridge
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 09:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 1:26 AM
Subject: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
> As I said last week, I am in the market for a driver Healey. Today I
looked
> at a 1960 BT7 that several people I know (and some on this list) know this
> history of and recommended. I like the car but there were a few issues
that
> I am trying to figure what they mean to me and my pocket book. If you
don't
> mind, please look over my list and let me know what you think as to how
big
> a problem something is, and how much you would guess it would cost to fix.
>
> I have posted pictures of the car are here if you want to look....
> http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/1960_austin.htm
>
> - The side shift transmission is in need of repair. First has a chip in
it,
> and second is noisy. The overdrive used to work, but after sitting for
> years, does not engage (it could just use service). I have two things to
> think about here. 1st, do I rebuild this original unit or do I go with
the
> 5 speed. How much of a cost/default difference is there between the two.
> Is the difficulty and time of the work about the same between the two?
>
> - RUST!!! The most feared word to me. There actually wasn't much rust
that
> I could find but there were a couple of places. 1st, there is a place
> rusted through on the front extension on the frame where the two bolt
holes
> are (what are they for anyway) Everything else seems pretty sound, and it
> looks containable. I guess that it needs to be cut out and patched to
stop
> the growth. Is that a big deal? Pricey?
>
> - RUST Part 2!!!! There are a couple of small rust bubbles on the drivers
> side, but the real concern is the passenger fender. There is a large
bubble
> where the paint is lifting from a bad repair to fill a spot where a side
> mirror used to be. Can an area around the size of a silver dollar be
> sanded, treated and painted with a decent job on blending? This is
supposed
> to be a driver, not a show car, and I cannot afford to re-spray.
>
> - Seats. The seat bottoms in the car are not correct, they are on plywood
> and are pillow like instead of angled back. This makes my leg rub on the
> steering wheel. Are the correct seat bottoms hard to find? What do other
> big guys do about room for your legs between the seat and steering wheel?
>
> - The bottom of the driver door does not fit the contour of the car. It
is
> not coming in on the top side like a sagging frame would do, it just looks
a
> little sprung out?
>
> - The car has bead setting for several years, and the tires are squared,
so
> I will have to replace the set
>
> - The only other thing is that the carbs are set a little rich, and there
is
> a some black smoke. I have been told that I need to also replace the
> diaphragms.
>
> There are several good points
> - Engine very good condition
> - No rust in other "typical Healey" rust areas that I could find
> - New fuel tank
> - Newly hydraulic systems
> - New soft top still in box
> - 72-spoke wheels
> - Known history of the car and endorsements of those I trust as to it's
> condition.
>
> Please let me know your thoughts.
>
> Patton
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
> 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
> Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 09:17:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
Back in the April/May period I realized that I was no longer receiving
any Healey list mail....I had simply been dropped from the list. Had to
sign on again, and has been fine since.
John Slade
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 08:34:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
> Has anyone had the experience of being lost from the list without
> requesting to be removed? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
> '56 BN2
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 06:51:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
To find out about the install process, see my paper on Jim Werner's site:
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
It's a fiddle, but definitely worth while once it's squared away. The cost,
doing the work yourself: Kit $500, Trans $200-300, Driveshaft $150-250, $130
for crankshaft seal kit. Rebuilding the stock trans will cost more than
that ($1500-2k) and you'll still have the same recalcitrant hunk of
ironmongery.
2) Rust & Price--I hope you're getting this car for a long way below $20k.
Last week my neighbor just bought a near-concours BN1 for $24k. Prices are
depressed right now--see ebay discussion of this last week.
3) FWIW--72-spoke Daytons with tires & new hubs cost approx $3k from BWW or
Hendrix.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 10:12:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
Rick
Has anyone had the experience of being lost from the list without
> requesting to be removed? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
> '56 BN2
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 07:29:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
There are a number of things to consider. First of all you mentioned
you are after a driver. Second it
sounds like your concerns are based upon what you will have to spend
getting this car into shape as a driver
AFTER your initial investment. Here is a brief rundown of expected
expenses not having looked the car over well myself.
These are for parts only, and assuming you will do everything yourself
except tranny, OD, rebushing kigpins etc.
By the way, I bought a car as a driver and have learned these lessons
first hand. I have owned it a year and have well
over 5K into parts. I do drive the heck out of it, and enjoy working on
it but was disillusioned about "operating costs".
With what I have into it, I could likely buy a freahly restored car.
But then I know nearly every nut and bolt on the silly
thing and where the weaknesses are. So you are at the same crossroads
and we all found our selves at, shall I save on up front
costs and just "fix it up a bit here and there", or pay the big bucks
for one someone else has done the work.
A-rear end, springs, shocks, shock links, trunions, rubber, top bumper
boxes 350-500
B-Brakes, depending upon condition, handbrake cable, shoes, calipers,
pistons, springs, rotors - 300-550
C-hubs, bearings, shims, depends on how much spline wear - 150-1500 (big
bucks for rims if splines are gonzo)
D-Front end rebuild-bushes, king pins, steering box, tie rods, shocks
etc - 600-1000 (assuming good shock tower caps)
E-Fuel system, carb rebuild kits, napa solid state pump, fuel gage
sending unit, 100-200
F-Transmission/OD rebuild - 800 Labor +300-500 parts
G-Overdrive solinoid, switch,1st/2nd gear lockout switch - 50-200
(overdrive soliniods are pricy)
H-Gages - 100 each for rebuild/calibration (Nisongers)
I- Trafficator - could just need teardown clean-up refitting
J-Seats - used ones pop up on ebay for 100 every now and then check moss
for foam and covers
K-Rust - I agree with Joe, Fix that which presents a safety issue
(shock tower caps/suspension mount points) live with the rest.
You need to find a good welder, I have found an owner/operator
speciality fabrication shop to do the necessary stuff.
Alternativly you should start surfing for frame off restoratrion
advice (ie do it right as some say).
L-Poorly fitting doors, if your lucky its is an adjustment, rebush the
hinges etc. If your not lucky get out the checkbook (ouch)
As far as a driver goes, you can usually make doors stay closed by
adjusting (read stay closed/fit nicely/choose one) in all but the most
spirited driving.
M-Tires - 100x5 (only use an experienced wire wheel guy for
mounting/truing/balancing!!!)
N- Soft top, you wont use it, trade it for any of the above mentiond parts
O-Rubber bits, chemicals, gaskets, manuals, rags
P-Intangibles -Explaniations to the wife on what you need another 200
bucks for those brake rotors. (had to toss that in)
Q-Z skipped
I think you get the idea. The only thing I am trying to do is to help
set your expectations that if you buy a car
that has not had all these systems refreshed in the past 10 years be
advised. You will nickle and dime your self alot. I say 100$, 100$,
everytime I look into any repair it seems like a minimium 100$ to moss.
I have more into mine than I
could get in good consious.
In the end I must say that I absolutly love my little 1960BT7. It has a
small bit of rust here and there, a poorly fitting door, could
use new synchros (and as long as I am in the gear box..:-)), is staged
for more front end work but I need cash for springs
and shocks, has a smiley face where the speedo goes (awaiting its return
from Nisongers). It is a driver, will never be a show car
unless I join Joe M in a frame off and spend another bundle, but it goes
like a rabied ferret hopped up on caffine down a drain pipe.!!
If its under 5K go for it, 10K think hard, 15K uuuurrrgh, 20K, (can you
say eBay)
Hope this helps and is taken in spirit it was intended. Look forward to
seeing you on the road bro!!
Tracy (early 1960BT7/3213 driver)
Patton Dickson wrote:
As I said last week, I am in the market for a driver Healey. Today I
looked
at a 1960 BT7 that several people I know (and some on this list) know this
history of and recommended. I like the car but there were a few issues
that
I am trying to figure what they mean to me and my pocket book. If you
don't
mind, please look over my list and let me know what you think as to how big
a problem something is, and how much you would guess it would cost to fix.
I have posted pictures of the car are here if you want to look....
http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/1960_austin.htm
- The side shift transmission is in need of repair. First has a chip in
it,
and second is noisy. The overdrive used to work, but after sitting for
years, does not engage (it could just use service). I have two things to
think about here. 1st, do I rebuild this original unit or do I go with the
5 speed. How much of a cost/default difference is there between the two.
Is the difficulty and time of the work about the same between the two?
- RUST!!! The most feared word to me. There actually wasn't much rust that
I could find but there were a couple of places. 1st, there is a place
rusted through on the front extension on the frame where the two bolt holes
are (what are they for anyway) Everything else seems pretty sound, and it
looks containable. I guess that it needs to be cut out and patched to stop
the growth. Is that a big deal? Pricey?
- RUST Part 2!!!! There are a couple of small rust bubbles on the drivers
side, but the real concern is the passenger fender. There is a large
bubble
where the paint is lifting from a bad repair to fill a spot where a side
mirror used to be. Can an area around the size of a silver dollar be
sanded, treated and painted with a decent job on blending? This is
supposed
to be a driver, not a show car, and I cannot afford to re-spray.
- Seats. The seat bottoms in the car are not correct, they are on plywood
and are pillow like instead of angled back. This makes my leg rub on the
steering wheel. Are the correct seat bottoms hard to find? What do other
big guys do about room for your legs between the seat and steering wheel?
- The bottom of the driver door does not fit the contour of the car. It is
not coming in on the top side like a sagging frame would do, it just
looks a
little sprung out?
- The car has bead setting for several years, and the tires are squared, so
I will have to replace the set
- The only other thing is that the carbs are set a little rich, and
there is
a some black smoke. I have been told that I need to also replace the
diaphragms.
There are several good points
- Engine very good condition
- No rust in other "typical Healey" rust areas that I could find
- New fuel tank
- Newly hydraulic systems
- New soft top still in box
- 72-spoke wheels
- Known history of the car and endorsements of those I trust as to it's
condition.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 07:31:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
>Yep, but Ed assures me he's still alive and well :-)
>
>Rick
>
>
>Has anyone had the experience of being lost from the list without
>
>
>>requesting to be removed? Thanks.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Doug
>> '56 BN2
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 10:22:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
Dave Russell
BN2
Douglas W Flagg wrote:
> Has anyone had the experience of being lost from the list without
> requesting to be removed? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug
> '56 BN2
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 13:23:05 -0400
Subject: Fluctuating oil pressure
I got my rebuilt engine back in the car in '99, and since then have lived with
oil pressure that was apparently lower than I started with before the rebuild
(now 60 psi cold, just under 40 on the gauge at cruise when hot, until last
weekend when it seemed to be running closer to 35, and dropping to less than
20 at idle). The needle was always rock-steady, and I have about 40,000
miles on the rebuild.
This morning, I thought I would finally get around to making sure the air was
out of the oil pressure hose and line, so with the car at idle, I loosened the
B-nut to the oil pressure gauge just enough to get a drip of oil. When I
first loosened the nut, I got an audible "whoosh" of air, and at the same time
a thrill that I had probably fixed the low gauge. I had just changed the oil,
so I let the oil drip out until I got clear oil, then I tightened the B-nut.
Now, my gauge needle vibrates so much that I can't tell if the actual pressure
is better or worse. What happened? It's like my daddy used to say, "It's
always something!"
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 13:52:43 -0400
Subject: Steering box shims
__________________________________________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 13:31:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Fluctuating oil pressure
Actually a little air in the line helps the gage damping. It compresses
& uncompresses to smooth out the variations. Since pressure is pressure
whether it is the oil or the air, I don't think that air in the line
will affect the actual oil pressure reading. It sounds like maybe your
oil pump is sucking air for some reason & giving intermittant oil
pressure. I don't know of many other reasons that the pressure would
fluctuate so fast. I guess it is possible that the pressure relief valve
is bouncing around for some reason. Have you replaced this valve &
spring with the CORRECT parts. There are two types of valve plungers,
only one is correct.
Dave Russell
BN2
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I got my rebuilt engine back in the car in '99, and since then have lived with
> oil pressure that was apparently lower than I started with before the rebuild
> (now 60 psi cold, just under 40 on the gauge at cruise when hot, until last
> weekend when it seemed to be running closer to 35, and dropping to less than
> 20 at idle). The needle was always rock-steady, and I have about 40,000
> miles on the rebuild.
>
> This morning, I thought I would finally get around to making sure the air was
> out of the oil pressure hose and line, so with the car at idle, I loosened the
> B-nut to the oil pressure gauge just enough to get a drip of oil. When I
> first loosened the nut, I got an audible "whoosh" of air, and at the same time
> a thrill that I had probably fixed the low gauge. I had just changed the oil,
> so I let the oil drip out until I got clear oil, then I tightened the B-nut.
>
> Now, my gauge needle vibrates so much that I can't tell if the actual pressure
> is better or worse. What happened? It's like my daddy used to say, "It's
> always something!"
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 13:40:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering box shims
No end play, no preload. Do as you are & take shims out to just short of
preload. Kind of a subjective thing. Better a little too loose than to
tight.
Dave Russell
MeditionM@netscape.net wrote:
> Listers I am rebuilding my steering box and I have a question about
> the shims. I know without enough shims the bearings get clamped.
> Not good! Too many shims and there is end-play in the worm gear and
> the bearings are loose. Is there supposed to be a pre-load on these
> bearings? What is the best procedure for this process? I guess I
> could put shims in until I see end-play and then start taking shims
> out. Where do I stop? Ken Mason BJ7 in work
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 13:45:28 -0700
Subject: Re: DMD
Who makes the best "stock-looking" head, with mods for airflow? They
all claim to be "improved" somehow ...
I also heard tell that the DW heads had some problems--casting voids, in
particular--at one time, at least. Any truth to that?
re:
"change the characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it to rev past
7,500rpm"
I presume this requires triple SUs/Webers, and a header (regardless of the
head)?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi Steve,
>
> OK - there are 4 different alloy heads for 6 cyl Healeys that I am aware of.
> I don't own any of them. They are, in no particular order - Denis Welch;
> Original factory alloy Head; Southern Carburettors, and DMD.
>
> Let me just clarify my previous statement by saying that I understand that
> the Denis Welch head is certified by the FIA because it is an accurate
> reproduction of the Factory alloy head. It not only looks like the factory
> head - but the ports are in the same place as on the factory head etc - ie
> it is a replica of the factory head - but obviously as it is being made 30
> plus years later, the metalurgy used, heat treatment, casting wall thickness
> accuracy etc are much better than the original factory alloy heads. And its
> brand new - and doesn't have 30 plus years of use.
>
> So it would be more 'reliable' than the original factory alloy head -
> because of the alloy used, the heat treatment method etc.
>
> The original factory alloy heads are pretty rare - I know of 2 in sydney -
> both have been on the cars for over 30 years - Joe's Sebring Healey GT, and
> the Ross Bond Healey.
>
> The other alloy head I am aware of are those made by Southern Carburettors,
> but I haven't seen one of those for a while. These were probably the 'first'
> repros of the factory head - and were reasonably accurate to the original
> in design in most areas - ie there were no radical departures like moving
> port location or valve location etc, but I think there were some material
> /heat treatment issues with early ones.
>
> The DMD head is purpose designed for a Healey, and is not constrained by
> original Healey appearance or Healey design.
>
> As to which is the 'best' - the only 'measure' I have is lap times and race
> placings - and that's a measure of the performance of the entire car
> package - including the driver and the chassis - not just the cylinder
> head.
>
> All Healey racing here in Australia over the last 5 years has shown that
> cast iron head cars are often as competitive as alloy head cars - and the
> real differentiator is actually the use of forged steel aftermarket
> crankshafts (Welch, DMD, Sainty, Shugg, etc) which totally change the
> characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it to rev past 7,500rpm. The
> steel forged crank is providing the higher revs - and its the revs which is
> make the huge power.
>
> Denis Welch won both all Healey races at Bathurst in 1998 - but the late
> Peter Hopwood - in a cast iron headed car - set the (still current) Bathurst
> Healey Lap record.
>
> Of the alloy heads, I suspect that the Denis Welch head has the most race
> wins.
>
> I hope that clarifies it a bit better.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
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From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 14:52:35 -0700
Subject: RE: Fluctuating oil pressure
My sump had a JB weld strip running port to starboard at it's lowest forward
line where it sweeps rocks out of the way so I thought I should replace it
with a new finned aluminum one. After jury-rigging the installation
shorten this, cut that, file this) I had it installed in three days. (IE
the pump was drained and in pieces for three days, don't do this).
I had almost an inch of sludge in the bottom of the pan so I was thinking
that was the cause of the high pressure.
It wasn't.
In fact I had no pressure since I did not know to pack the oil pump gears in
vasoline before re-assembly to aid in priming the pump. I removed the oil
pressure line from the side of the engine and injected about 60cc into it
then hooked it up. I got wildly fluctuating readings, the pin was bouncing
from 0-100. You could actually hear the needle whacking back and forth with
the engine running. A 55 Chevy restorer asked me if I had "bled" the line
from behind the guage. Duh, NO.
I unscrewed the line from the guage and started the engine. Oil quickly shot
out. (Be sure to have lots of rags handy) I ran the car and it was a little
better shaking, not whacking from 30-90. I bled it again until air, then oil
came out and it has been rock solid since. Others had told me that there is
no need to bleed oil pressure gauge lines but now I'm a believer in the
technique.
However,the pressure was still high, up to 100lbs cold, accellerating.
I bought another overpressure valve and spring. The new valve looked really
cheap and the new spring was even longer than the original (in theory, it
would allow even higher pressure).
I tried both new spring and valve but no change in the pressures. So I put
back the original, cut one loop at a time off the spring until the start
pressure was 80 then dropped to 60-65 at temperative (165 F) and 20-25 at
idle.
That's my story, hope it helps.
Ron O. Davies
67 BJ8
PS if you have a spin on filter and are adjusting (cutting) the spring
tension on the oil pressure relief valve,
be very, VERY careful to put that filter back on before you start up the
engine. What a mess. Trust me.
Measure twice, cut once.
Subject: Re: Fluctuating oil pressure
Steve,
Actually a little air in the line helps the gage damping. It compresses
& uncompresses to smooth out the variations. Since pressure is pressure
whether it is the oil or the air, I don't think that air in the line
will affect the actual oil pressure reading. It sounds like maybe your
oil pump is sucking air for some reason & giving intermittant oil
pressure. I don't know of many other reasons that the pressure would
fluctuate so fast. I guess it is possible that the pressure relief valve
is bouncing around for some reason. Have you replaced this valve &
spring with the CORRECT parts. There are two types of valve plungers,
only one is correct.
Dave Russell
BN2
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I got my rebuilt engine back in the car in '99, and since then have lived
with
> oil pressure that was apparently lower than I started with before the
rebuild
> (now 60 psi cold, just under 40 on the gauge at cruise when hot, until
last
> weekend when it seemed to be running closer to 35, and dropping to less
than
> 20 at idle). The needle was always rock-steady, and I have about 40,000
> miles on the rebuild.
>
> This morning, I thought I would finally get around to making sure the air
was
> out of the oil pressure hose and line, so with the car at idle, I loosened
the
> B-nut to the oil pressure gauge just enough to get a drip of oil. When I
> first loosened the nut, I got an audible "whoosh" of air, and at the same
time
> a thrill that I had probably fixed the low gauge. I had just changed the
oil,
> so I let the oil drip out until I got clear oil, then I tightened the
B-nut.
>
> Now, my gauge needle vibrates so much that I can't tell if the actual
pressure
> is better or worse. What happened? It's like my daddy used to say,
"It's
> always something!"
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 17:56:40 -0400
Subject: BN2L 231450 RUNS AGAIN!
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 16:51:14 -0600
Subject: Re: DMD
I have a DW head on my Hundred Four. It looks stock but can be obtained
with three stages of porting. I have the stage three & there are very
noticeable differences in the internal port layout & shape over a stock
head. Also different valve sizes. Changing to this head resulted in
greatly improved mid range & top rpm power. There is no evidence of
casting voids or other such problems. All in all, a very high quality
piece of work.
Dave Russell
BN2 with LeMans engine specs.
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Thanks for the info, Chris ...
>
> Who makes the best "stock-looking" head, with mods for airflow? They
> all claim to be "improved" somehow ...
>
> I also heard tell that the DW heads had some problems--casting voids,
> in particular--at one time, at least. Any truth to that?
>
> re: "change the characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it to
> rev past 7,500rpm"
>
> I presume this requires triple SUs/Webers, and a header (regardless
> of the head)?
>
> bs ***************************************************** Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home) San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work) `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)
> `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> OK - there are 4 different alloy heads for 6 cyl Healeys that I am
>> aware of. I don't own any of them. They are, in no particular order
>> - Denis Welch; Original factory alloy Head; Southern Carburettors,
>> and DMD.
>>
>> Let me just clarify my previous statement by saying that I
>> understand that the Denis Welch head is certified by the FIA
>> because it is an accurate reproduction of the Factory alloy head.
>> It not only looks like the factory head - but the ports are in the
>> same place as on the factory head etc - ie it is a replica of the
>> factory head - but obviously as it is being made 30 plus years
>> later, the metalurgy used, heat treatment, casting wall thickness
>> accuracy etc are much better than the original factory alloy heads.
>> And its brand new - and doesn't have 30 plus years of use.
>>
>> So it would be more 'reliable' than the original factory alloy head
>> - because of the alloy used, the heat treatment method etc.
>>
>> The original factory alloy heads are pretty rare - I know of 2 in
>> sydney - both have been on the cars for over 30 years - Joe's
>> Sebring Healey GT, and the Ross Bond Healey.
>>
>> The other alloy head I am aware of are those made by Southern
>> Carburettors, but I haven't seen one of those for a while. These
>> were probably the 'first' repros of the factory head - and were
>> reasonably accurate to the original in design in most areas - ie
>> there were no radical departures like moving port location or valve
>> location etc, but I think there were some material /heat treatment
>> issues with early ones.
>>
>> The DMD head is purpose designed for a Healey, and is not
>> constrained by original Healey appearance or Healey design.
>>
>> As to which is the 'best' - the only 'measure' I have is lap times
>> and race placings - and that's a measure of the performance of the
>> entire car package - including the driver and the chassis - not
>> just the cylinder head.
>>
>> All Healey racing here in Australia over the last 5 years has shown
>> that cast iron head cars are often as competitive as alloy head
>> cars - and the real differentiator is actually the use of forged
>> steel aftermarket crankshafts (Welch, DMD, Sainty, Shugg, etc)
>> which totally change the characteristics of a Healey engine by
>> allowing it to rev past 7,500rpm. The steel forged crank is
>> providing the higher revs - and its the revs which is make the huge
>> power.
>>
>> Denis Welch won both all Healey races at Bathurst in 1998 - but the
>> late Peter Hopwood - in a cast iron headed car - set the (still
>> current) Bathurst Healey Lap record.
>>
>> Of the alloy heads, I suspect that the Denis Welch head has the
>> most race wins.
>>
>> I hope that clarifies it a bit better.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> Chris
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 17:24:47 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2L 231450 RUNS AGAIN!
Congratulations - I hope you have fun with it.
It looks like your car & mine may have been made on the same day. Mine
is 231459. Built 29 March, 1956.
On the green light problem, the flasher can (round thing) itself may
have a bent or sticking contact which is keeping the light on. The
blinker signal switching itself is done by the separate flasher relay.
If the three terminal can is screwed up the light could be on even
though nothing else is happening. You could try tapping on the can & see
if the green light goes out or blinks or, just replace it.
Yes - they can get hot inside. I lined the inside sheetmetal & the
outside of the passenger foot well with two layers of "Dynamat Extreme".
Added a two inch thick insulating blanket across the top inside of the
firewall. Also put a high tech ceramic insulating blanket around the
exhaust down pipes. It regularly gets over 100 degrees F. where I live.
It is actually not too bad now.
Dave Russell
BN2
eugene faust wrote:
> The 100M that I bought almost exactly two years ago as a semi basket
> case is back on the road. Despite a bunch of dumb mistakes that led
> to having to redo some things over a second or third time to get
> them right, it looks good, runs well and everything works.
>
> But I now understand what all the talk about warm cockpits was all
> about. I'm glad that I live up here on the north coast where
> temperatures over 80 degrees F are relatively rare.
>
> There is one thing that puzzles me about the directional signals. The
> directional signals work as they should and the little green light on
> the instrument panel blinks in unison. However, when the signals are
> not in use, the green light stays on and it's a bright little bugger
> to have to stare at, especially at night. Is this normal? If not,
> any suggestions as to the cause? I have double checked all the wire
> connections and they seem to be OK.
>
> Gene
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From "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:53:10 -0500
Subject: Main bearing caps -- 4 cylinder
Further judicious bashing with larger mallet yielded no results. Neither did
attempts to split the seals at the joints with a fine point chisel.
Those things have been in place for at least 35 years that I know of. I hate
to go after them with heavier artillery unless it's absolutely necessary.
Ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Clyde
BN2 232149
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 03:07:42 +0200
Subject: Re: DMD
The SC head that I now run doesn4t leak but I don4t know if it has been
pressure tested by someone with Formula One experience.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Main bearing caps -- 4 cylinder
Take your block to a machine shop and have it put in
the acid tank! It'll solve all of these types of
problems.
Before you do any work on a motor you should always
have it tanked... And working on the main caps with a
chisel is ... well... not a good idea.
The only thing to be careful of when tanking is I
don't recall if there are any brass gallery plugs on
the 100/4 engine ... can anyone on the list comment on
this?
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Clyde Stutzman <clyde.stutzman@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
> Could someone please tell me the proper way to
> extract the main caps. Removing
> nuts, washers, etc. was followed by mild whacking
> with a rubber mallet. No
> movement was noted other than my temperature which
> was moving up rapidly.
>
> Further judicious bashing with larger mallet yielded
> no results. Neither did
> attempts to split the seals at the joints with a
> fine point chisel.
>
> Those things have been in place for at least 35
> years that I know of. I hate
> to go after them with heavier artillery unless it's
> absolutely necessary.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Clyde
> BN2 232149
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:23:16 -0600
Subject: Re: DMD
I have the H6 SU's on factory LeMans manifolds. As a matter of interest,
the original head had very large smooth ports. A PO's idea of a good
porting job I guess. The DW ports are smaller & differently shaped. When
I asked DW if I should open up the head ports to match the nearly two
inch manifold holes he said to fill the manifolds to match the head
ports. I did this with JB Weld ground to shape & size. I have used JB
Weld in the past to fill & reshape car & motorcycle intake ports & have
never had it come loose. I think that DW knows what they are doing on
ports since it made such a power improvement. Bigger is not always
better where ports are concerned.
Dave Russell
BN2
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Are you running the standard SU carbs?
>
>
> bs ***************************************************** Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home) San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
> (work) `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> ***************************************************** ----- Original
> Message ----- From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net> To: "Bob
> Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net> Cc: "Healeys"
> <healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 3:51 PM
> Subject: Re: DMD
>
>
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I have a DW head on my Hundred Four. It looks stock but can be
>> obtained with three stages of porting. I have the stage three &
>> there are very noticeable differences in the internal port layout &
>> shape over a stock head. Also different valve sizes. Changing to
>> this head resulted in greatly improved mid range & top rpm power.
>> There is no evidence of casting voids or other such problems. All
>> in all, a very high quality piece of work.
>>
>> Dave Russell BN2 with LeMans engine specs.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:33:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Main bearing caps -- 4 cylinder
I don't know if it is the "proper" way but I double nut the studs,
remove them, & tap or pry the caps lengthwise of the crank. They come
off pretty easily with the studs removed.
Dave Russell
BN2
Clyde Stutzman wrote:
> Could someone please tell me the proper way to extract the main caps. Removing
> nuts, washers, etc. was followed by mild whacking with a rubber mallet. No
> movement was noted other than my temperature which was moving up rapidly.
>
> Further judicious bashing with larger mallet yielded no results. Neither did
> attempts to split the seals at the joints with a fine point chisel.
>
> Those things have been in place for at least 35 years that I know of. I hate
> to go after them with heavier artillery unless it's absolutely necessary.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Clyde
> BN2 232149
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From "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:33:22 -0500
Subject: Main bearing caps - 4 cyl - UPDATE
Now, on to the next crisis. When I pulled the engine the other day, I thought
to myself, "Well, self, we'll just hang this babe from the good ol' engine
stand". I overlooked one small point. The threads on the back of the block
where the rear plate bolted, to which the stand must attach, are that dreaded
thread (whatever they call it).
Anyway, to avoid any more alligator wrestling on the garage floor (rolling the
block over and back) which I've done this evening, I need 4 bolts that fit
that thread. Looks like they need to be between 3 1/4 and 3 1/2 inches long.
Anyone have a source I can contact to purchase same?
Preferably ... fast.
Thanks in advance ... again.
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:53:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
Before deciding whether or not to purchase this car, you must ask yourself
two questions:
1. Can I live with the cosmetics AS IS?
2. Can I get the car cheap (Like well under $12k)?
If the answer to either of these questions is no, walk away. For a few
thousand more you should be able to get a much better car. The trans and
overdrive issues can be dealt with fairly easily. Trying to correct the
cosmetic issues will undoubtedly lead to a total cosmetic restoration (And
big bucks).
Personally, I like drivers. If you just want the driving experience and
have no intention of ever showing the car they represent a very good value.
Last year I purchased a BN7 in similar condition, albeit with an excellent
trans and overdrive, good door fit, low miles, and no frame rust. I paid
$15k for it. I love driving it and performing the minor repairs and
improvements has given me a great deal of pleasure. However, If I ever
decided to restore it I would soon be upside down financially.
Bottom line is, unless you want the experience of doing a total restoration,
buy a car that is already in (or close to) the condition you ultimately
want. Anything else will lead to disappointment.
Good luck with your decision.
John
>From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
>To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
>Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 00:26:03 -0500
>
>As I said last week, I am in the market for a driver Healey. Today I
>looked
>at a 1960 BT7 that several people I know (and some on this list) know this
>history of and recommended. I like the car but there were a few issues
>that
>I am trying to figure what they mean to me and my pocket book. If you
>don't
>mind, please look over my list and let me know what you think as to how big
>a problem something is, and how much you would guess it would cost to fix.
>
>I have posted pictures of the car are here if you want to look....
>http://home.earthlink.net/~kpdii/1960_austin.htm
>
>- The side shift transmission is in need of repair. First has a chip in
>it,
>and second is noisy. The overdrive used to work, but after sitting for
>years, does not engage (it could just use service). I have two things to
>think about here. 1st, do I rebuild this original unit or do I go with the
>5 speed. How much of a cost/default difference is there between the two.
>Is the difficulty and time of the work about the same between the two?
>
>- RUST!!! The most feared word to me. There actually wasn't much rust that
>I could find but there were a couple of places. 1st, there is a place
>rusted through on the front extension on the frame where the two bolt holes
>are (what are they for anyway) Everything else seems pretty sound, and it
>looks containable. I guess that it needs to be cut out and patched to stop
>the growth. Is that a big deal? Pricey?
>
>- RUST Part 2!!!! There are a couple of small rust bubbles on the drivers
>side, but the real concern is the passenger fender. There is a large
>bubble
>where the paint is lifting from a bad repair to fill a spot where a side
>mirror used to be. Can an area around the size of a silver dollar be
>sanded, treated and painted with a decent job on blending? This is
>supposed
>to be a driver, not a show car, and I cannot afford to re-spray.
>
>- Seats. The seat bottoms in the car are not correct, they are on plywood
>and are pillow like instead of angled back. This makes my leg rub on the
>steering wheel. Are the correct seat bottoms hard to find? What do other
>big guys do about room for your legs between the seat and steering wheel?
>
>- The bottom of the driver door does not fit the contour of the car. It is
>not coming in on the top side like a sagging frame would do, it just looks
>a
>little sprung out?
>
>- The car has bead setting for several years, and the tires are squared, so
>I will have to replace the set
>
>- The only other thing is that the carbs are set a little rich, and there
>is
>a some black smoke. I have been told that I need to also replace the
>diaphragms.
>
>There are several good points
>- Engine very good condition
>- No rust in other "typical Healey" rust areas that I could find
>- New fuel tank
>- Newly hydraulic systems
>- New soft top still in box
>- 72-spoke wheels
>- Known history of the car and endorsements of those I trust as to it's
>condition.
>
>Please let me know your thoughts.
>
>Patton
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster
>1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
>Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 00:34:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Main bearing caps - 4 cyl - UPDATE
That threading should be BSF threading. The best and
quickest solution I can suggest (I'm assuming you are
in the US) is to call either British Car Specialists
or Hemphills healey haven and ask them to send you the
BSF bolts in the sizes you need.
www.britishcarspecialists.com
or
www.healeyhaven.com
These guys are both healey specialists, so they will
know the exact threading of the bolts required... and
will probably have some in stock. I also know they
will both happily send you the bolts FED EX, for a
slight fee of course.
Of you know of a British Car mechanic or a British
Bike mechanic in your town... you might have some luck
and he might have what you need... although this could
be a wild goose chase...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Clyde Stutzman <clyde.stutzman@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
> Well ... after using a series of increasingly thick
> wedges and a larger
> hammer, the main caps are now off. No damage to
> mating surfaces, thank
> goodness. (Thanks Blue One Hundred; acid dip comes
> next.)
>
> Now, on to the next crisis. When I pulled the
> engine the other day, I thought
> to myself, "Well, self, we'll just hang this babe
> from the good ol' engine
> stand". I overlooked one small point. The threads
> on the back of the block
> where the rear plate bolted, to which the stand must
> attach, are that dreaded
> thread (whatever they call it).
>
> Anyway, to avoid any more alligator wrestling on the
> garage floor (rolling the
> block over and back) which I've done this evening, I
> need 4 bolts that fit
> that thread. Looks like they need to be between 3
> 1/4 and 3 1/2 inches long.
>
> Anyone have a source I can contact to purchase same?
>
> Preferably ... fast.
>
> Thanks in advance ... again.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:21:35 +1000
Subject: Re: DMD
Chris Dimmock wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
> OK - there are 4 different alloy heads for 6 cyl Healeys that I am aware of.
> I don't own any of them. They are, in no particular order - Denis Welch;
> Original factory alloy Head; Southern Carburettors, and DMD.
>
> Let me just clarify my previous statement by saying that I understand that
> the Denis Welch head is certified by the FIA because it is an accurate
> reproduction of the Factory alloy head. It not only looks like the factory
> head - but the ports are in the same place as on the factory head etc - ie
> it is a replica of the factory head - but obviously as it is being made 30
> plus years later, the metalurgy used, heat treatment, casting wall thickness
> accuracy etc are much better than the original factory alloy heads. And its
> brand new - and doesn't have 30 plus years of use.
>
> So it would be more 'reliable' than the original factory alloy head -
> because of the alloy used, the heat treatment method etc.
>
> The original factory alloy heads are pretty rare - I know of 2 in sydney -
> both have been on the cars for over 30 years - Joe's Sebring Healey GT, and
> the Ross Bond Healey.
>
> The other alloy head I am aware of are those made by Southern Carburettors,
> but I haven't seen one of those for a while. These were probably the 'first'
> repros of the factory head - and were reasonably accurate to the original
> in design in most areas - ie there were no radical departures like moving
> port location or valve location etc, but I think there were some material
> /heat treatment issues with early ones.
>
> The DMD head is purpose designed for a Healey, and is not constrained by
> original Healey appearance or Healey design.
>
> As to which is the 'best' - the only 'measure' I have is lap times and race
> placings - and that's a measure of the performance of the entire car
> package - including the driver and the chassis - not just the cylinder
> head.
>
> All Healey racing here in Australia over the last 5 years has shown that
> cast iron head cars are often as competitive as alloy head cars - and the
> real differentiator is actually the use of forged steel aftermarket
> crankshafts (Welch, DMD, Sainty, Shugg, etc) which totally change the
> characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it to rev past 7,500rpm. The
> steel forged crank is providing the higher revs - and its the revs which is
> make the huge power.
>
> Denis Welch won both all Healey races at Bathurst in 1998 - but the late
> Peter Hopwood - in a cast iron headed car - set the (still current) Bathurst
> Healey Lap record.
>
> Of the alloy heads, I suspect that the Denis Welch head has the most race
> wins.
>
> I hope that clarifies it a bit better.
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
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From "Phil Nase" <pnase at enter.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 07:50:05 -0400
Subject: Sprite cleanup
I am going to buy a power washer to clean up the parts. Anyone have any
suggestions on how much power I need. My local Sear has a 2300 and 2600 lb
machine. Do I need all that?
Thanks for your help.
Phil Nase
Quakertown, PA
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 07:59:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Where did the list go?
Thanks for the link. I sub*scribe to two majordomo lists, and get mail
from both, but this showed me only sub*scribed to one-----the Healey list.
This is the one I get sporatic mail from. ??
Thanks
Tom
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 08:05:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Fluctuating oil pressure
It will be interesting to hear replies.
Chers
tom
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 08:29:14 -0400
Subject: photos
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:32:37 EDT
Subject: Re: photos
> Does anyone know if the server will accept photo attachments to postings?
>
It will not.
Steve
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:06:31 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2L 231450 RUNS AGAIN!
As an alternative to Dave's suggestion, I insulated underneath my carpet
(floors and footwell) using a foil backed insulation purchased at Lowe's,
and it also made a very noticeable improvement. They carry rolls in a
variety of widths, and it's fairly inexpensive. There is one drawback
however. It is foil backed on both sides, and after insulating and
installing my transmission tunnel, my overdrive ceased to work. After some
diagnosing I found that it (the foil backing) had grounded the lockout
switch on the gearbox. I hadn't realized it was such a tight fit. After
fixing the problem, everthing was cool!
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "eugene faust" <ejfaust@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 4:56 PM
Subject: BN2L 231450 RUNS AGAIN!
I now understand what all the talk about warm cockpits was all
about. I'm glad that I live up here on the north coast where
temperatures over 80 degrees F are relatively rare.
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 10:12:11 -0400
Subject: Lucas 700 headlamp
Yesterday...for my birthday...we decided to take the Healey and cruise
through New Hampshire and hit the antique shops. Just inside of the first
shop I hear a crunch sound. I turn around to see a Ford pickup backed into
my Healey. Freakin' Great.....nice birthday present. Fortunately there was
no damage to the body of the Healey (VERY LUCKY). Only the headlight and the
chrome ring took the hit. But damnit, those were the Lucas headlights that
my Dad had put on this car. Now I want to find a replacement.
So...does anyone have a Lucas 700 headlight for LHD? There's a 700 on Ebay
right now, but it's a RHD version. These are not the tripod lights, they're
just basic Lucas beams, but with the seperate bulbs. Also, who's making good
quality chrome rings? These are the later style (BJ8). Can they be had with
the rivit as original?
Thanks All,
Dave Masucci
64 Austin Healey BJ8
98 Mustang Cobra
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:32:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Fluctuating oil pressure
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 07:45:29 -0700
Subject: Re: DMD
re:
"Bigger is not always better where ports are concerned."
Yep ... slows the velocity.
Thanks for the info.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: DMD
> Bob,
>
> I have the H6 SU's on factory LeMans manifolds. As a matter of interest,
> the original head had very large smooth ports. A PO's idea of a good
> porting job I guess. The DW ports are smaller & differently shaped. When
> I asked DW if I should open up the head ports to match the nearly two
> inch manifold holes he said to fill the manifolds to match the head
> ports. I did this with JB Weld ground to shape & size. I have used JB
> Weld in the past to fill & reshape car & motorcycle intake ports & have
> never had it come loose. I think that DW knows what they are doing on
> ports since it made such a power improvement. Bigger is not always
> better where ports are concerned.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > Are you running the standard SU carbs?
> >
> >
> > bs ***************************************************** Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home) San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
> > (work) `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > ***************************************************** ----- Original
> > Message ----- From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net> To: "Bob
> > Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net> Cc: "Healeys"
> > <healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 3:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: DMD
> >
> >
> >
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> I have a DW head on my Hundred Four. It looks stock but can be
> >> obtained with three stages of porting. I have the stage three &
> >> there are very noticeable differences in the internal port layout &
> >> shape over a stock head. Also different valve sizes. Changing to
> >> this head resulted in greatly improved mid range & top rpm power.
> >> There is no evidence of casting voids or other such problems. All
> >> in all, a very high quality piece of work.
> >>
> >> Dave Russell BN2 with LeMans engine specs.
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:57:33 -0400
Subject: Re:Where did the list go?
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 11:23:56 EDT
Subject: Re: DMD
<< www.dmdaustralia.com.au/head.html. >>
The above link does not work (error 404: server not found) even by selective
truncating, which often can be a useful workaround.
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From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 11:42:42 -0700
Subject: Re: DMD
www.dmdaustralia.com.au/head.html
Randy Hicks
56 100M
On 8/24/03 8:23 AM, "RAHosmer@aol.com" <RAHosmer@aol.com> wrote:
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:12:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Fluctuating oil pressure
I'm betting it will cure itself - just drive it as normal.
I had a similar problem with the tri-carb years ago - the oil needle bounced
badly when the engine was first started up after sitting for many years.
This was right after I corrected for no gauge movement - the line was
plugged so I blew it out and cranked the engine untill I got oil from the
line.
It settled down of it's own accord after a couple of drives. I guess the
oil more oir less drains out of the gauge line when the engine is at rest
and pumps up with a head of air when it is fired up. I've never really
thought about this until now - always something new with these wonderful,
frustrating cars!
Let us know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 7:32 AM
Subject: Re: Fluctuating oil pressure
Thanks to all for the experience and suggestions concerning my bouncing oil
pressure needle. It would appear that it is not a good idea to try to bleed
the air out of the oil pressure line. My thinking was that it should be
similar to the brake lines: air in the lines will not transmit brake
pressure
efficiently and therefore could be the reason for low oil pressure readings.
There could be something to the idea that air in the oil pressure lines
dampens the gauge needle. When I get around to getting some air back in
the
line, I'll report the results.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:15:45 -0700
Subject: Re: DMD
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: DMD
In a message dated 8/24/2003 3:19:42 AM, varley@cosmos.net.au writes:
<< www.dmdaustralia.com.au/head.html. >>
The above link does not work (error 404: server not found) even by selective
truncating, which often can be a useful workaround.
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 17:01:13 -0400
Subject: RE: Lucas 700 headlamp
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: David Masucci <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/24/03 9:13:54 AM
> Subject: Lucas 700 headlamp
>
> Hi All,
>
> Yesterday...for my birthday...we decided to take the Healey and cruise
> through New Hampshire and hit the antique shops. Just inside of the first
> shop I hear a crunch sound. I turn around to see a Ford pickup backed into
> my Healey. Freakin' Great.....nice birthday present. Fortunately there was
> no damage to the body of the Healey (VERY LUCKY). Only the headlight and
the
> chrome ring took the hit. But damnit, those were the Lucas headlights that
> my Dad had put on this car. Now I want to find a replacement.
>
> So...does anyone have a Lucas 700 headlight for LHD? There's a 700 on Ebay
> right now, but it's a RHD version. These are not the tripod lights,
they're
> just basic Lucas beams, but with the seperate bulbs. Also, who's making
good
> quality chrome rings? These are the later style (BJ8). Can they be had
with
> the rivit as original?
>
> Thanks All,
>
> Dave Masucci
>
> 64 Austin Healey BJ8
> 98 Mustang Cobra
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 16:07:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
I poked around the rest of the frame, and didn't find any soft spots. I
think that the sway bar may have hit a curb and caused that. That should be
a small patch to fix.
Thanks
Patton
-----Original Message-----
From: Mick VanderPloeg [mailto:MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 8:11 AM
To: Patton Dickson; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: Opinions requested on a car I looked at today (long)
Just a cursory look at your pictures leads me to believe that a strictly
cosmetic restoration was performed, primarily based on the overspray in the
engine compartment and lack of new paint anywhere but on the outer body. I
would definitely be concerned that previous rust problems were covered in
body filler and painted over, rather than cut out and replaced with new
metal. Rust in the frame is a definite red flag. It depends what you want
to do with the car, but my feeling is that if you stripped off the existing
paint and underlying body filler, you wouldn't like what you found
underneath. Just trying to patch the existing rust problems and match paint
in those areas will be difficult. A well done rust repair and body/chassis
restoration will cost anywhere from 10-20k, if performed by a professional
restoration shop. In comparison to body problems, mechanical problems are
relatively cheap to correct. I'd much rather find a perfect body/frame with
a beat engine/transmission than vice versa. As mentioned in a previous
response, this car should not be priced as having been 'restored'.
Personally, unless this car's price is just too good to pass up, I'd keep on
shopping.
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 14:29:33 -0700
Subject: Coolant recovery
Thanks, Lee
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 17:50:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery
Attached for your reading pleasure is the text and illustration of how I
installed such a system in my BJ8. Thanks to Marion Brantley for the idea.
If anyone else on the list wants to see the attachments, contact me off list.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Kufchak
To: healey
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 5:29 PM
Subject: Coolant recovery
Has anyone installed a coolant recovery bottle (tank/system/etc)? I am
about
to have my radiator recored and will install a "Texas cooler" at the same
time. Should I install a coolant recovery as well?
Thanks, Lee
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of overflowtext.doc]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
overflowplumbing.jpg]
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 17:58:22 EDT
Subject: Bonnet Latch on BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 18:48:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery
I certainly think that it is a good idea. It keeps air out of the
coolant & prevents a mess.
There is a coolant recovery tank made as a Healey accessory at Cape
International. Go here;
http://www.cape-international.com/index2.htm
Click on "Cape Sport"
Click on "Here for on line version" under performance parts
Click on "Cooling & Heating"
Scroll down to "Expansion Tank"
Dave Russell
BN2
Kufchak wrote:
> Has anyone installed a coolant recovery bottle (tank/system/etc)? I am about
> to have my radiator recored and will install a "Texas cooler" at the same
> time. Should I install a coolant recovery as well?
>
> Thanks, Lee
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:00:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery
<< Has anyone installed a coolant recovery bottle (tank/system/etc)? >>
Hi Lee,
Check the <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">NTAHC web site</A> and you can finds info
on building and attaching a overflow tank unnder Tech Articles.
Don
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:10:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Coolant recovery
> Should I install a coolant recovery as well?
>
Hi Lee-
That is a loaded question and a matter of personal modification adaptation.
I have been using a coolant recovery system all my Healeys for about 10
years. In order to accomplish what I feel is the best recovery system and
maintaining 7 psi in the cooling system I use a sealing cap on the radiator
(UNIPART
GRC-126), an MGB expansion tank with a 7 lb (UNIPART GRC-102) cap on it, and
rubber tubing that is run from the radiator overflow to the expansion tank
inlet.
(FYI there is an inlet and an outlet connection on the expansion tank.)
If you check around any good recycling yard that has MGBs or Midgets you
should be able to find a good useable expansion tank. Just make sure that it is
clean and the inlet & outlet pipes not stopped up.
Be sure to fill the radiator up to the bottom of the neck and put 1/2 pint of
coolant in the expansion tank. I located the expansion tank in the "Y"
section on the right hand side above the foot well.
It has worked great for me.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club
Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Member
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 18:34:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: DMD
Just for the sake of argument, I bought DMD's head,
roller cam, and 3.8 liter block. Would my old BJ8
gearbox be up to the task? If not is there anything
in the works from DMD?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
> Chris and the list
> Been busy this weekend get my new acquisition "The
> Volvo" a 7 Targa
> Tasmania's
> P1800E Ready for a Nissan Club sprint day at Sandown
> next weekend.
> (photo
> included). Your discussion about cylinder heads
> prompted me to get the
> images
> together of the new DMD head, a full redesign over
> the original unit,
> and already
> proving a great improvement over the earlier head
> based on the Dyno
> results. The
> images clearly show the elevated inlet ports you
> mention, but you will
> also note
> the new wedge combustion chamber design, and the
> pillars for the push
> rods are
> now integral with the head. You will also note some
> interesting options,
> in
> regard to valve and port sizes.
> Link is -
> http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/head.html.
> Cheers
> Larry
>
> Chris Dimmock wrote:
>
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > OK - there are 4 different alloy heads for 6 cyl
> Healeys that I am aware of.
> > I don't own any of them. They are, in no
> particular order - Denis Welch;
> > Original factory alloy Head; Southern
> Carburettors, and DMD.
> >
> > Let me just clarify my previous statement by
> saying that I understand that
> > the Denis Welch head is certified by the FIA
> because it is an accurate
> > reproduction of the Factory alloy head. It not
> only looks like the factory
> > head - but the ports are in the same place as on
> the factory head etc - ie
> > it is a replica of the factory head - but
> obviously as it is being made 30
> > plus years later, the metalurgy used, heat
> treatment, casting wall thickness
> > accuracy etc are much better than the original
> factory alloy heads. And its
> > brand new - and doesn't have 30 plus years of use.
> >
> > So it would be more 'reliable' than the original
> factory alloy head -
> > because of the alloy used, the heat treatment
> method etc.
> >
> > The original factory alloy heads are pretty rare -
> I know of 2 in sydney -
> > both have been on the cars for over 30 years -
> Joe's Sebring Healey GT, and
> > the Ross Bond Healey.
> >
> > The other alloy head I am aware of are those made
> by Southern Carburettors,
> > but I haven't seen one of those for a while. These
> were probably the 'first'
> > repros of the factory head - and were reasonably
> accurate to the original
> > in design in most areas - ie there were no radical
> departures like moving
> > port location or valve location etc, but I think
> there were some material
> > /heat treatment issues with early ones.
> >
> > The DMD head is purpose designed for a Healey, and
> is not constrained by
> > original Healey appearance or Healey design.
> >
> > As to which is the 'best' - the only 'measure' I
> have is lap times and race
> > placings - and that's a measure of the performance
> of the entire car
> > package - including the driver and the chassis -
> not just the cylinder
> > head.
> >
> > All Healey racing here in Australia over the last
> 5 years has shown that
> > cast iron head cars are often as competitive as
> alloy head cars - and the
> > real differentiator is actually the use of forged
> steel aftermarket
> > crankshafts (Welch, DMD, Sainty, Shugg, etc) which
> totally change the
> > characteristics of a Healey engine by allowing it
> to rev past 7,500rpm. The
> > steel forged crank is providing the higher revs -
> and its the revs which is
> > make the huge power.
> >
> > Denis Welch won both all Healey races at Bathurst
> in 1998 - but the late
> > Peter Hopwood - in a cast iron headed car - set
> the (still current) Bathurst
> > Healey Lap record.
> >
> > Of the alloy heads, I suspect that the Denis Welch
> head has the most race
> > wins.
> >
> > I hope that clarifies it a bit better.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Chris
> > ______________________________________
> >
> > Chris Dimmock
> > Sydney Australia
> >
> > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
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From Franck Vigneron <vigneronf at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 18:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
Would you know where to get this particular poster or
a new or used club calendar, pictures ...?
I leave in Southern California with my BT7 but I am
originally coming from a village not far from Allos! I
am just back from Allos a week ago. It is kind of
special for me.
Thank you
Franck
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "M Lempert" <mlempert at bellsouth.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:00:05 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2L 231450 RUNS AGAIN!
While poking around I discovered that some of the wiring didn't match the
diagram in the service manual. I noticed that the BN2 wiring is slightly
different than the BN1, requiring a different harness. The gent that
restored my car C.1990 used a BN1 harness. One area that is different is
the wiring to the dash indicator. I had two wires going to the light - both
from the relay box (as per BN1 spec). Since the BN2 diagram indicates a
direct wire from the flasher unit and one ground to the tach bracket, I was
certain I had a ground deficiency. I rewired as per BN2 spec (using new and
separate wires). To my disappointment it didn't improve anything.
While trying to determine which wire should be the ground, I tried every
combination. I'm very puzzled about the results. The light works the
same - dim blinking - regardless of which way it's wired. It didn't matter
which lead I grounded. And with the two wires from the relay it didn't have
a ground except by mounting in the dash. I'm confused how it could work in
all ways.
Since nothing seemed to improve or even change the operation, I left it
wired with my new BN2 adaptation - all the time remembering "if it ain't
broke..."
The next time out where I needed my head lights a lot of smoke escaped from
my harness. The wires connecting to the light switch just behind the dash
burnt. I'm chalking this up to coincidence since I can't find anything in
common with the area I was fooling with. Now, if not before, I have a
legitimate need to replace the harness with the proper BN2 type.
Oh yeah, I don't know why your light stays on. Sorry.
Regards,
Mike Lempert
Charleston, SC
'56 BN2
'59 BN7
'60 Bugeye
'67 Mustang
'70 E-Type
'79 Midget
>There is one thing that puzzles me about the directional signals. The
>directional signals work as they should and the little green light on
>the instrument panel blinks in unison. However, when the signals are
>not in use, the green light stays on and it's a bright little bugger to
>have to stare at, especially at night.
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:54:58 -0500
Subject: BJ-7 advice and/or sheet metal measurements needed!
I'm in the middle of mounting the rear sheet metal (rear clip) on my BJ-7 and
I'm having a hell of a time finding exactly where to tack weld it into place.
Initially, I took the rear clip off of the car because it was totally rotted
except for all but one wheel arch and the vertical riser between the rear seat
pan and the shroud. Basicaly, I'm building a rear sheet metal clip from
scratch. My buddy Karl came up from Milwaukee to help me this weekend between
beers and this has been the hardest thing to accomplish on the car. All of the
other sheet metal is new and temporarily tacked or clamped. That is where the
problem comes in. Right now I have the engine in, the suspension in, new floor
pans, new sills, front fenders and shroud mounted so that I can line up the
doors and get the gap correct. Also, the frame is dead straight. The problem
is that the top of the door is about 1/2 inch to low for the top of the rear
shroud once I install the rear sheet metal. I try to tip the front of the rear
shroud and inner fender down to meet the top of the door correctly but this
makes the rear door gap uneven. I have now reason the believe that the hinges
are bent or sagging, I suppose that they could be, but the car was not that far
off before I took it apart.
1). I think that I need a measurement from the top of the rear shroud where the
little chrome fitting resides that matches against the door chrome trim down to
the top of the sill. This would help a lot.
2).I also need to know how much of the wheel arch extends below the sill.
3). Also, is the trunk floor dead flat or does it rise or descend toward the
bottom shroud lip?
4). If the car is on level jackstands, should the tops of the chrome strips on
the doors be parallel to the ground? One door looks like it is and the other
does not.
Questions 1 and 4 are the ones that I need answers to the most. Thanks a lot
and this sure was an exercise in futility this weekend. I hope that there are
not many left. As always, thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:12:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Luggage Rack w/Straps
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From "Jim Fash" <jimf400 at hotmail.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:28:56 -0700
Subject: Cough, Sputter, and Stall -- Again. Any Thoughts?
Does this sound like a clogged fuel line? Maybe gunk in the fuel tank? How
can I tell if the tank is the culprit, short of pulling it out and boiling
the tank?
Thanks, any thoughts are much appreciated.
Jim Fash
BN6
_________________________________________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:51:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack w/Straps
Cape Sport has a nice rack & separate straps. Go here;
http://www.cape-international.com/index2.htm
Click on "Cape Sport"
Click on "Here for on line version" under performance parts
Click on "Body fittings & accessories""
Scroll down to "Luggage Racks"
Skip Besaw wrote:
> Looking for a High quality Luggage Rack with Leather straps. Checked catalogs
>for Victoria British, Moss and British Car Specialists and can't find anything
>supplied with straps. Anuone have a source? Thanks and it's for a BJ8
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:36:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Cough, Sputter, and Stall -- Again. Any Thoughts?
The fuel pump should NOT click like crazy. If it is, it means that the
pump is getting air instead of fuel or it is getting no fuel, or the
pump is defective. There may be something wrong with the fuel pickup in
the tank. You should be able to blow air into the line from the tank to
the pump (at the pump end) If you can blow air through it you should
hear air bubling up through the fuel in the tank. If no air flow, the
pick up is plugged. If no bubbling it means that the fuel pick up is
above the fuel level. Filler cap off for all of this. While you're at it
check to see if the cap vent is plugged. In fact, check this first.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jim Fash wrote:
> My BN6 as recently started to cough, sputter, and eventually stall. This
> is becoming a routine; it happens whenever headed uphill for more than
> 1/4 mile. After stalling, it turns over, but will not restart. It has
> gas, the fuel pump clicks like crazy, yet it won't start.
>
> Does this sound like a clogged fuel line? Maybe gunk in the fuel tank?
> How can I tell if the tank is the culprit, short of pulling it out and
> boiling the tank?
>
> Thanks, any thoughts are much appreciated.
>
> Jim Fash
> BN6
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:57:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cough, Sputter, and Stall -- Again. Any Thoughts?
It sounds like to me that you are simply running with
about 1/4 tank. If you run up hill for an extended
period with 1/4 tank of gas or less, your car will run
out of gas because the fuel pickup is in the front of
the tank, and the gas (while heading uphill) is in the
back. A Rapidly clicking fuel pump is a good
indication of this. Your fix for this is to be sure
to tap the brakes pretty hard (when heading up hill
for a long time) to slosh some gas to the front of the
tank... or simply point the car downhill for a second,
let the carb floats fill up, and then start back
uphill again.
Also, while you are running up hill, the pressure
required to pump fuel to the carbs increases
significantly. If your pump is weak... or you have a
clogged fuel filter or a bad float jet... this can
also cause the symptoms you describe...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Fash <jimf400@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My BN6 as recently started to cough, sputter, and
> eventually stall. This is
> becoming a routine; it happens whenever headed
> uphill for more than 1/4
> mile. After stalling, it turns over, but will not
> restart. It has gas, the
> fuel pump clicks like crazy, yet it won't start.
>
> Does this sound like a clogged fuel line? Maybe gunk
> in the fuel tank? How
> can I tell if the tank is the culprit, short of
> pulling it out and boiling
> the tank?
>
> Thanks, any thoughts are much appreciated.
>
> Jim Fash
> BN6
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan
> at McAfee.com.
> http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:39:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Cough, Sputter, and Stall -- Again. Any Thoughts?
Took it off and put an in-line filter external to the tank.
Problem solved.
Regards
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: Jim Fash <jimf400@hotmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/24/03 11:39:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Cough, Sputter, and Stall -- Again. Any Thoughts?
>
> Jim,
>
> The fuel pump should NOT click like crazy. If it is, it means that the
> pump is getting air instead of fuel or it is getting no fuel, or the
> pump is defective. There may be something wrong with the fuel pickup in
> the tank. You should be able to blow air into the line from the tank to
> the pump (at the pump end) If you can blow air through it you should
> hear air bubling up through the fuel in the tank. If no air flow, the
> pick up is plugged. If no bubbling it means that the fuel pick up is
> above the fuel level. Filler cap off for all of this. While you're at it
> check to see if the cap vent is plugged. In fact, check this first.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Jim Fash wrote:
> > My BN6 as recently started to cough, sputter, and eventually stall.
This
> > is becoming a routine; it happens whenever headed uphill for more than
> > 1/4 mile. After stalling, it turns over, but will not restart. It has
> > gas, the fuel pump clicks like crazy, yet it won't start.
> >
> > Does this sound like a clogged fuel line? Maybe gunk in the fuel tank?
> > How can I tell if the tank is the culprit, short of pulling it out and
> > boiling the tank?
> >
> > Thanks, any thoughts are much appreciated.
> >
> > Jim Fash
> > BN6
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:36:40 -0400
Subject: 100-6 factory top
Was this cover meant for a specific car (possibly CE12597, the last two digits
52 denoting width or length)? Or is this a part number?
Is the factory top adaptable to 100-4 rear cowl and windshield profiles
without alteration? I'd be interested in bidding, but not if it involved
bastardizing the top.
Is there a contemporary precedent for fitting hardtops to 100-4's? I know
there were a few rare fixed hardtop prototypes, but I wonder if there were
also some factory replaceable tops?
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:41:39 EDT
Subject: 100-4 Hardtops, was: 100-6 factory top
I have a Universal Laminations (wide rear window) top that was allegedly
installed on a 100-4 at the Healey factory. The top's PO says he asked Donald
Healey about 100-4 hardtops and DMH said that they only factory installed about
six hardtops on 100-4 models, and that only two of them were the wide rear
window style. FWIW.
Doug Auburg, AHCUSA Membership Director, has been researching hardtops, has
owned and/or inspected several, and is convinced that there were many more than
six factory installations.
Universal Laminations made a lot of tops for Healeys and other marques (my UL
SN is, from sometimes poor memory, about 307) and, of course, there were
other hardtop manufacturers, as well.
Bruno Verstraete owns a BN-2 that was displayed at the Amsterdam Car Show in
1956 with a factory fitted hardtop. (I have a photo from Bruno and seeing is
believing).
Bruno and Doug are researching Bruno's hardtop and at this point believe it
is a Universal Laminations top.
So there were some "factory replaceable tops".
As to whether the 100-6 top would fit a 100-4, I seem to remember postings to
this list that stated a definite "no". I also seem to remember that the
100-6 was "stretched" either 2 or 4 inches and suspect it was in the cockpit
area,
which would be just enough to prohibit the tops being interchangeable without
modifications.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
BN-1L 156610 "Brutus" still up on blocks in California.
In a message dated 8/25/2003 5:12:46 AM Pacific Standard Time,
acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
> Is the factory top adaptable to 100-4 rear cowl and windshield profiles
> without alteration? I'd be interested in bidding, but not if it involved
> bastardizing the top.
>
> Is there a contemporary precedent for fitting hardtops to 100-4's? I know
> there were a few rare fixed hardtop prototypes, but I wonder if there were
> also some factory replaceable tops?
>
> Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 10:38:02 -0400
Subject: Re: 100-6 factory top
From the leading edge of the windscreen seal area to the rear edge of
the shroud seal area is about 45 to 46 inches. From side to side it is about
43 to 44 inches. This would hold fairly close for both tops, however the
rear shroud sealing style is a bit different between the two.
The top on e-Bay looks very much like it will not fit a 100-4. The shape
of the rear sealing area and the curvature on the leading (windscreen seal)
edge does not look correct. I will admit that photos can be deceiving, so I
cannot make that statement 100% firm, just my opinion.
There are no 'serial numbers' on either top I have, but both were
purchased in very used, poor to fair condition.
If the winner is on the list, keep us informed.
CB
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From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Kingpins
Thanks,
Rich
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Rich,
I used to be the Dutch agent for Oilite. Their
recommendation is to
submerge
the bearing(s) in any type of engine oil you have
around, heat to 90
degrees
C (approx. 194 F), take away the heat source and let
the oil cool to
room
temp with the bearings still submerged. Take the
bearings out , which
by now
should have expelled all air from the pores and
replaced by oil.
(Just did mine).
Regards
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 11:04:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
--- Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com> wrote: << Dear All, I am looking for
the original
picture or poster from the 2001 Calendar Austin-Healey Club USA for the month
of December. - "View
of Col d'Allos" (Tip of the mountain above the Village of Allos- ALPES). Would
you know where to
get this particular poster or a new or used club calendar, pictures ...? I
leave in Southern
California with my BT7 but I am originally coming from a village not far from
Allos! I am just
back from Allos a week ago. It is kind of special for me. Thank you,
--Franck >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "Doug Auburg" <dauburg at vintagead.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:38:08 -0700
Subject: RE: 100-4 Hardtops, was: 100-6 factory top
DMH was correct in his statement. Technically there were no "factory"
hardtops available for the 100/4's. BMC/Auston only started providing
factory hardtops with the 100-6 model. However, soon after the 100/4 came
out, UL came up with a hardtop design that would fit it (details as to exact
time are lost in history). Bic Healey loaned me two or three old photos of
a UL hardtop on a 100/4 at the Warwick plant (copies of a couple of those
photos are shown in the Anderson/Moment restoration book). So if there
wasn't a factory hardtop, what was the deal?
Bic said that one day a UL reg showed up at the Donald Healey Motors site in
Warwick with a prototype hardtop (probably the one in the pictures referred
to above) to demonstrate. DMH agreed to market the hardtop through his
store (and remember that he had the exclusive rights to market to US Armed
Forces bases throughout Europe). So while the UL hardtop wasn't technically
a "factory" hardtop, it was accepted and marketed by the company owned by
the AH's creator.
The top was available in four variations as best as I can determine. Two
variations involved the width and shape of the rear window (wide or narrow)
and the other two variations involved the size of the door opening (either
to fit the stock AH side curtain or to fit a slightly larger UL side
curtain). There was a third window configuration shown on the prototype top
shown in the Anderson/Moment book, but I don't think that one was produced
in numbers as the ads I have seen and have copies of only show the other two
window configurations.
I believe that one of these tops (one of the two I once owned) will be
restored and displayed on a factory 100M at this weekend's Portland All
British Field Meet on Saturday and Sunday at Portland International Raceway.
Finally, I do not believe that the 100-6 hardtop will fit on a 100/4 --
certainly not without significant modification that would be very
problematic.
Doug Auburg
(author of the hardtop section in the Anderson/Moment restoration book)
-----Original Message-----
From: SMickel950@aol.com [mailto:SMickel950@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 6:42 AM
To: acmiller@mhcable.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100-4 Hardtops, was: 100-6 factory top
Hi Allen:
I have a Universal Laminations (wide rear window) top that was allegedly
installed on a 100-4 at the Healey factory. The top's PO says he asked
Donald Healey about 100-4 hardtops and DMH said that they only factory
installed about six hardtops on 100-4 models, and that only two of them were
the wide rear window style. FWIW.
Doug Auburg, AHCUSA Membership Director, has been researching hardtops,
has owned and/or inspected several, and is convinced that there were many
more than six factory installations.
Universal Laminations made a lot of tops for Healeys and other marques (my
UL SN is, from sometimes poor memory, about 307) and, of course, there were
other hardtop manufacturers, as well.
Bruno Verstraete owns a BN-2 that was displayed at the Amsterdam Car Show
in 1956 with a factory fitted hardtop. (I have a photo from Bruno and
seeing is believing).
Bruno and Doug are researching Bruno's hardtop and at this point believe
it is a Universal Laminations top.
So there were some "factory replaceable tops".
As to whether the 100-6 top would fit a 100-4, I seem to remember postings
to this list that stated a definite "no". I also seem to remember that the
100-6 was "stretched" either 2 or 4 inches and suspect it was in the cockpit
area, which would be just enough to prohibit the tops being interchangeable
without modifications.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
BN-1L 156610 "Brutus" still up on blocks in California.
In a message dated 8/25/2003 5:12:46 AM Pacific Standard Time,
acmiller@mhcable.com writes:
Is the factory top adaptable to 100-4 rear cowl and windshield profiles
without alteration? I'd be interested in bidding, but not if it involved
bastardizing the top.
Is there a contemporary precedent for fitting hardtops to 100-4's? I
know
there were a few rare fixed hardtop prototypes, but I wonder if there
were
also some factory replaceable tops?
Allen Miller '56 BN2/M
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 12:26:50 -0700
Subject: BN2 Gearbox Cover
David Crawford
San Diego, California
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:22:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
> Franck, I have a good 2001 AH Calender that I would be happy to send to
you
> if you do not already have one. If so, please send me your address off
> list.
> Norm Cay 53 BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:45 PM
> Subject: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
>
>
> > Dear All,
> > I am looking for the original picture or poster from
> > the 2001 Calendar Austin-Healey Club USA for the month
> > of December. - "View of Col d'Allos" (Tip of the
> > mountain above the Village of Allos- ALPES).
> >
> > Would you know where to get this particular poster or
> > a new or used club calendar, pictures ...?
> >
> > I leave in Southern California with my BT7 but I am
> > originally coming from a village not far from Allos! I
> > am just back from Allos a week ago. It is kind of
> > special for me.
> >
> > Thank you
> > Franck
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 18:22:19 -0400
Subject: Negative ground conversion.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Kufchak" <leemar at bendcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 15:39:05 -0700
Subject: Coolant recovery
It's a pleasure to be on this list. Thanks again, Lee
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 18:07:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Alan HBJ8L/34297
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:22 PM
Subject: Negative ground conversion.
> Thanks to all who gave advice on the forth gear transmission problem. It
> turned out to be a clutch problem and not the trans. The next project is
to
> change to negative ground. I checked the archives and didn't find much
even
> thought I know there has been several discussions on that thread in the
> past. Is there a website with the proper information? Does anyone have a
> good source for a generator? I have ordered the Pertronix and coil as well
> as new distributor cap and rotor. Thanks, JL
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From Eric Wells <ericasc at associatedprinting.biz>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:11:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
I don't think that anything has to be done to the generator to switch
to neg ground. It generates a field regardless of polarity.
A couple of other things to remember, probably obvious to you but
apparently not my car's PO. Tach must be disconnected and/or rewired
during switch over. I've seen instructions to do this yourself or
Nisonger did a good job repairing mine when PO forgot.
Also radio will be fried if not disconnected. I have a very correct
looking, albeit useless, dash attachment now.
Everything else, Lights, trafficator, horn, etc stills seems to be
working.
Good Luck,
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From DrBerkowitz at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:31:03 EDT
Subject: Poor Starting
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:38:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
> Does anyone have a good source for a generator?
James--
Generator! Break into the twentieth century and get an alternator. I use a
Prestolite/Leece-Neville 70 amp universal model mounted via a nifty cast
aluminum Denis Welch bracket and am swimming in power.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:58:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
<< Does anyone have a
good source for a generator? >>
Check the <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">NTAHC web site</A> under tech tips and you
can get some info on installing an alternator. This instalation uses probably
the most common alternator available, Delco internal regulated SI 10.
Don
NTAHC
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:06:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
You could start here:
http://members.tripod.com/PREV_PDLJMPR/tech1.htm
and here:
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spriteposneg.htm
and here:
http://www.bayourovers.com/lucas.html (for a discussion on coil polarity)
Cheers,
John (the other JL)
>>Is there a website with the proper information?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:24:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
The generator will have to be 'flash repolarized' - a simple procedure done
on the car.
The only Healey that needs the tach reconfigured is the BJ8 - all the others
have a mechanical tach, cable driven, and don't know the difference in the
car's polarity.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
(both long ago converted to NEG ground)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Wells" <ericasc@associatedprinting.biz>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
James,
I don't think that anything has to be done to the generator to switch
to neg ground. It generates a field regardless of polarity.
A couple of other things to remember, probably obvious to you but
apparently not my car's PO. Tach must be disconnected and/or rewired
during switch over. I've seen instructions to do this yourself or
Nisonger did a good job repairing mine when PO forgot.
Also radio will be fried if not disconnected. I have a very correct
looking, albeit useless, dash attachment now.
Everything else, Lights, trafficator, horn, etc stills seems to be
working.
Good Luck,
Eric Wells
67 BJ8 in WNC
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 18:35:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Check these links.
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/polarity.html
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/alternator.html
Michael Oritt's advice on the alternator is good.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> The next project is to change to negative ground. I checked the
> archives and didn't find much even thought I know there has been
> several discussions on that thread in the past. Is there a website
> with the proper information? Does anyone have a good source for a
> generator? I have ordered the Pertronix and coil as well as new
> distributor cap and rotor. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea Rockport Maine 1962 BT7 II
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 20:44:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Bill Scannell
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From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 20:45:18 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:04:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Poor Starting
Your carbs are probably too lean or the choke is not
working properly.
When you start, do you get some black smoke coming out
the back... ? If you don't, it means the carbs need
to run a little richer.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- DrBerkowitz@aol.com wrote:
> I have a BJ7 which runs very nicely (smooth steady
> and strong) but I'm have
> all kinds of trouble getting started when cold. Not
> so bad when the engine is
> hot. I recently checked the points - appear to be
> gapped correctly and the
> dwell angle sits at exactly 35 degrees.
> The spark plugs seem to be OK (gaps are right etc.
> Any suggestions
> Len
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:05:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking for pix in AH Club USA calendar 2001 December
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "norman cay" <normcay@earthlink.net>
>To: "Franck Vigneron" <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
>CC: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December Date:
>Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:22:40 -0700
>
>Franck, I forgot to delete the trailer from the healey list message , and
>do
>not know if the first message got to you. Anyway, here it is again, without
>the trailer
>Norm
>----- Original Message -----
>From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
>To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 1:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
>
>
> > Franck, I have a good 2001 AH Calender that I would be happy to send to
>you
> > if you do not already have one. If so, please send me your address off
> > list.
> > Norm Cay 53 BN1
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:45 PM
> > Subject: Looking for pix in AHClub Usa calendar 2001 December
> >
> >
> > > Dear All,
> > > I am looking for the original picture or poster from
> > > the 2001 Calendar Austin-Healey Club USA for the month
> > > of December. - "View of Col d'Allos" (Tip of the
> > > mountain above the Village of Allos- ALPES).
> > >
> > > Would you know where to get this particular poster or
> > > a new or used club calendar, pictures ...?
> > >
> > > I leave in Southern California with my BT7 but I am
> > > originally coming from a village not far from Allos! I
> > > am just back from Allos a week ago. It is kind of
> > > special for me.
> > >
> > > Thank you
> > > Franck
_________________________________________________________________
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:13:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
If you are converting your BT7 and putting on an
alternator... you won't have to do anything other than
turn the battery around.
The only exception to this is if your have an
electronic ignition (like pertronix) and/or a electric
radiator fan and/or a positive ground radio then you
will have to do some rewiring for these components...
but as far as the car is concerned, it'll be good to
go.
FYI another lister said you have to do something to
the tach... but BT7 is a mechanical tach so this is
just fine as is.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all who gave advice on the forth gear
> transmission problem. It
> turned out to be a clutch problem and not the trans.
> The next project is to
> change to negative ground. I checked the archives
> and didn't find much even
> thought I know there has been several discussions on
> that thread in the
> past. Is there a website with the proper
> information? Does anyone have a
> good source for a generator? I have ordered the
> Pertronix and coil as well
> as new distributor cap and rotor. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:37:42 -0400
Subject: Bad battery master switch?
While troubleshooting, I got a shock from accidently bridging the ground
strap on the master switch with the b/w wire from the coil with my finger
while the motor was running...is this normal? Same as grabbing a spark plug
wire? When I tapped the master switch, the engine would cut out, so I think
I found my problem. Is this symptom consistent with a bad master switch?
How do I change wiring to bypass the master switch for now? (Expensive
buggers!)
Neal G.
61 BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:16:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Poor Starting
Of course these beasts start amazingly easily when everything is set right.
And you know it takes fuel, spark at the right time, and air. Since your
car runs well when warm it sounds like the components are right, or at least
close.
However, when cold they can be troublesome as you now know. Your air supply
is still there. The spark and timing are still there. But to start them
cold they usually need plenty of choke. So if I were you I would verify
that when you pull the choke cable fully that the jet assemblies are
dropping. They would drop about 3/32 to 4/32 with full choke.
Another thing you could do would be to enrichen the mixture with the jets by
opening up say 6 flats and see if that improves cold starting. This could
at least tell you if a richer mixture improves the cold starting. Check the
same setting on hot starting too. You may find that starting improves with
only a flat or two richer without giving up normal running.
Just my .02
Keith Pennell
> I have a BJ7 which runs very nicely (smooth steady and strong) but I'm
have
> all kinds of trouble getting started when cold. Not so bad when the
engine is
> hot. I recently checked the points - appear to be gapped correctly and
the
> dwell angle sits at exactly 35 degrees.
> The spark plugs seem to be OK (gaps are right etc. Any suggestions
> Len
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:43:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Luggage Rack Straps
I got real nice leather straps for the Bugeye rack from Tractor Supply
Co. If you don't have one near you, check the web site
www.mytscstore.com to find one. (thier web pages don't list the straps,
but the store had them) Any saddle shop will have them. You can buy
stirrup straps like the ones I got. They were maybe 60-70" long and 1"
wide and come in brown or black with nice plain buckles. There are holes
every inch and I just cut off the excess and rounded the tip using a
razor blade. I think I paid about $17 for a pack of two at Tractor
Supply. Here's a link that has good pictures, but I think you can shop
around for a lower price.
http://www.buytack.com/products/english/all/leathers1.htm
Dave
Skip Besaw wrote:
>Looking for a High quality Luggage Rack with Leather straps. Checked catalogs
>for Victoria British, Moss and British Car Specialists and can't find anything
>supplied with straps. Anuone have a source? Thanks and it's for a BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:45:58 -0700
Subject: BN7 a Mk II?
Could H-BN7-L/2298 be a Mk II? My BN7 is later than this and is not.
Keith Pennell
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:53:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
I switcdhed to neg ground and used the alternator conversion kit from
Hendrix (no interest, blah, blah), including the alternator, on my 62 BT7
and, as I remember, all instructions were clear, took only a short period of
time to suss out the wiring (my wire colors were different for some reason)
but they were quite helpful by phone. No changes needed for the tach. If you
switch to an alternator be sure to get a high strength steel bolt to attach
it - I snapped the bolt head of the supplied normal one after a few months -
there is a lot of strain bearing upon the bolt head.
The alternator does make a difference, brighter lights for one. I have since
added a pertonix, very happy with it.
Terry
62 BT7 MK II HBT7L/18971
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Lea" <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 5:22 PM
Subject: Negative ground conversion.
>
> Thanks to all who gave advice on the forth gear transmission problem. It
> turned out to be a clutch problem and not the trans. The next project is
to
> change to negative ground. I checked the archives and didn't find much
even
> thought I know there has been several discussions on that thread in the
> past. Is there a website with the proper information? Does anyone have a
> good source for a generator? I have ordered the Pertronix and coil as well
> as new distributor cap and rotor. Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 00:14:13 -0500
Subject: Looking to buy a four-seat Healey - TX
I am trying to make up my mind about buying the 60 BT7 I asked about over
the weekend. As I said, I am not looking for either a show winner or a full
restoration project I want a Healey I can take my wife and daughter out and
drive on weekends without being embarrassed by its looks if we go to a club
tour or the local cruise-in.
The one constant I heard from everyone is "Buy the best Healey you can
afford"!!! Well, I can afford $15,000, TOTAL. After swapping several very
informative emails with people on the list. I believe I might get the 60
BT7 I found purchased and brought up to that level I am looking for about
$15,000. It also sounds as if there might be better deals to be had than I
have found.
I neglected to ask if anyone knew of another car I should consider. I have
found 4 other Healeys for sale in my general area, two are out of my price
range, one is in too rough of shape, and one is unknown as to price and
condition.
As I said, my budget is $15,000. That includes purchasing the Healey and
doing the required things to make the Healey the weekend fun car I am
looking for. I am in the Houston area, and if you know of a four-seat
Healey for sale that I should know about please email me off list.
Thanks
Patton
PS I wish they had reverse auctions where I say how much I have to spend on
the car, then sellers offer cars and I take the best one for that price!!!
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster (soon to be for sale)
1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert (soon to be for sale)
19?? Austin Healey coming soon!!!
Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:27:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Bad battery master switch?
There are two ways that you can bypass it. Connect the wires on the
large switch terminals both to the same terminal or connect the large
wire that comes from the battery to a good solid frame ground instead of
to the switch.
You didn't get the full spark plug voltage, only about 400 volts
inductive kick from the coil primary. It is normal. I would disconnect &
insulate the b/w wire from the coil also.
If you decide to replace the switch & don't have to have complete
originality, there are some very good switches available at rod shops &
boat shops. Cheaper too.
Dave Russell
BN2
Neal Grotenhuis wrote:
> The BT7 has been (very) intermittently missing, or suddenly "cutting out".
> It doesn't seem to matter whether hot or cold, time on road, under load or
> decelerating. I had a clogged fuel filter, which may have masked,
> exacerbated or simulated the problem (it ran better for a time after
> replacing it), but with the filter removed, and carb filter screens checked
> (clean), it continued to miss occasionally.
>
> While troubleshooting, I got a shock from accidently bridging the ground
> strap on the master switch with the b/w wire from the coil with my finger
> while the motor was running...is this normal? Same as grabbing a spark plug
> wire? When I tapped the master switch, the engine would cut out, so I think
> I found my problem. Is this symptom consistent with a bad master switch?
> How do I change wiring to bypass the master switch for now? (Expensive
> buggers!)
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:47:22 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 a Mk II?
Good question. My book shows C.BN7/2276 as being built around July 1959.
It also shows the first MK2's coming out around March 1961 at around
C.13751 with three HS4 carbs.
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Could H-BN7-L/2298 be a Mk II? My BN7 is later than this and is not.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 01:50:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bad battery master switch?
that little white and black wire serves only one
purpose... to ground the primary ignition circuit when
the switch is off to prevent someone from hotwiring
the car with a spare battery and driving off.
The lucas switches, from time to time, will breakdown
inside and ground that circuit accidentally, causing
your sputtering problems.
I'd suggest first removing that wire from the switch
and isolating the end of the white and black wire with
some electrical tape. That should fix your cutting
out problems.
If this doesn't fix it, then the switch is pretty much
in the toilet and you should bypass the switch totally
by simply running the cable straight from the battery
to ground.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Neal Grotenhuis <grotenhuis@comcast.net> wrote:
> The BT7 has been (very) intermittently missing, or
> suddenly "cutting out".
> It doesn't seem to matter whether hot or cold, time
> on road, under load or
> decelerating. I had a clogged fuel filter, which
> may have masked,
> exacerbated or simulated the problem (it ran better
> for a time after
> replacing it), but with the filter removed, and carb
> filter screens checked
> (clean), it continued to miss occasionally.
>
> While troubleshooting, I got a shock from accidently
> bridging the ground
> strap on the master switch with the b/w wire from
> the coil with my finger
> while the motor was running...is this normal? Same
> as grabbing a spark plug
> wire? When I tapped the master switch, the engine
> would cut out, so I think
> I found my problem. Is this symptom consistent with
> a bad master switch?
> How do I change wiring to bypass the master switch
> for now? (Expensive
> buggers!)
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 01:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> James -
>
> If you are converting your BT7 and putting on an
> alternator... you won't have to do anything other
> than
> turn the battery around.
>
> The only exception to this is if your have an
> electronic ignition (like pertronix) and/or a
> electric
> radiator fan and/or a positive ground radio then you
> will have to do some rewiring for these
> components...
> but as far as the car is concerned, it'll be good to
> go.
>
> FYI another lister said you have to do something to
> the tach... but BT7 is a mechanical tach so this is
> just fine as is.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com> wrote:
> > Thanks to all who gave advice on the forth gear
> > transmission problem. It
> > turned out to be a clutch problem and not the
> trans.
> > The next project is to
> > change to negative ground. I checked the archives
> > and didn't find much even
> > thought I know there has been several discussions
> on
> > that thread in the
> > past. Is there a website with the proper
> > information? Does anyone have a
> > good source for a generator? I have ordered the
> > Pertronix and coil as well
> > as new distributor cap and rotor. Thanks, JL
> >
> > James Lea
> > Rockport Maine
> > 1962 BT7 II
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:11:21 EDT
Subject: This weekend
Best--Michael Oritt
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:23:57 -0500
Subject: Leaving List
I need to leave the list for awhile to let this virus #!#!#!#!#! pass over ,
Hopefully. Can't afford to invest in a new "puter" at this time. Need the
money for the Healey of course.
If anyone needs to contact me please send to my personal email.
We'll reenlist later on, Thanks for 5 years of much valuable
information. Mark
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:41:32 -0400
Subject: Leaving List
If you have a legacy copy of Windows NY workstation, you may wish to
consider it. It supports application an all devices apart from USB ports,
and has none of the secuirty frailties of W2000 and XP; those were flushed
out over the years with six service pack releases, all of which can be
downloaded from the Microsoft tech board.
My office network was set up seven years ago with five Windows NT4
peer-to-peer workstations, and whilst I've pondered upgrading to '98 then
2000 and now XP, we've lugged along with the NT legacy, never suffering a
crash, even with power surges and brownouts.
Ironically, my home XP and 2000 home machines, bought for speedy CAD
graphics, conked out during the recent plague. The NT machines are
apparently immune to the virus. I check this with my computer consultants
and they confirmed that NT did not need the security patch.
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 09:32:22 -0500
Subject: RE: BN7 a Mk II?
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 11:47 PM
To: Keith Pennell
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN7 a Mk II?
Keith,
Good question. My book shows C.BN7/2276 as being built around July 1959.
It also shows the first MK2's coming out around March 1961 at around
C.13751 with three HS4 carbs.
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Could H-BN7-L/2298 be a Mk II? My BN7 is later than this and is not.
>
> Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 08:31:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaving List
This does not compute. The List server only transmits text (not
HTML/JavaScript) and
it strips all attachments (the preferred mechanism for most viruses).
If you're getting virus-infected messages from (apparent) List members, it's
because
their machines are infected and they are sending directly to you (not through
the List).
Leaving the List won't help solve this. FWIW, I haven't seen a virus-infected
message
from the List, ever. I have a firewall on my router but don't use anti-virus
s/w (it's always
a step or two behind the virus writers, anyway).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 5:23 AM
Subject: Leaving List
> 8 virus caught out of 21 emails. This is nuts. Good thing I have Norton.
> This list is where all of my emails come from, except for a few personals.
>
> I need to leave the list for awhile to let this virus #!#!#!#!#! pass over ,
> Hopefully. Can't afford to invest in a new "puter" at this time. Need the
> money for the Healey of course.
>
> If anyone needs to contact me please send to my personal email.
>
> We'll reenlist later on, Thanks for 5 years of much valuable
> information. Mark
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 08:42:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Hope you don't mind, I'm taking the liberty of copying this to the list -
others may be able to use the information.
No, the fuel gauge will not be a problem.
On a BJ7 (or any earlier big Healey with a mechanical tach drive) that is
completely stock - ie: no diode in the fuel pump, (as another lister has
explained this morning), and no equipment with any electronics added to the
car, (radio, tape players, etc:)
1 - change the battery terminals around
2 - re-polarize the generator, if you are still using it (or install an
alternator kit)
3 - interchange the the ignition leads at the coil. The engine will run if
you don't, but the coil will not be putting out it's full voltage.
Nothing else on the car is polarity sensitive - the original fuel pump
configuration uses a capacitor as an arc suppression device, and the heater
fan motor is a permanent magnet motor. The horns, lights, etc. don't care
about polarity.
That's it - you're done! Make sure that the generator is charging, then add
any modern NEG ground electrical equipment (tape or CD player, CB radio,
electronic fuel pump, etc. etc.) with impunity. It's also a pretty good
idea to hang a tag on the battery cable near the battery master switch to
remind everyone that the car had been converted to NEG ground - just in
case!
As I said, I've done this on all my Healeys as soon as I acquired them -
both cars that I currently own are still running generators, but I am
considering an alternator kit for the BJ8 - I have added so much electrical
stuff to it, that it may be the time now - it is currently under
construction.
Cheers, ------------ Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
Earl,
Is the Smith's fuel gauge polarity sensitive such that
the wires need to be switched?
John - BJ7
--- Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Oops - beg to differ!
>
> The generator will have to be 'flash repolarized' -
> a simple procedure done
> on the car.
>
> The only Healey that needs the tach reconfigured is
> the BJ8 - all the others
> have a mechanical tach, cable driven, and don't know
> the difference in the
> car's polarity.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> (both long ago converted to NEG ground)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Wells" <ericasc@associatedprinting.biz>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 4:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
>
>
> James,
>
> I don't think that anything has to be done to the
> generator to switch
> to neg ground. It generates a field regardless of
> polarity.
>
> A couple of other things to remember, probably
> obvious to you but
> apparently not my car's PO. Tach must be
> disconnected and/or rewired
> during switch over. I've seen instructions to do
> this yourself or
> Nisonger did a good job repairing mine when PO
> forgot.
>
> Also radio will be fried if not disconnected. I have
> a very correct
> looking, albeit useless, dash attachment now.
>
> Everything else, Lights, trafficator, horn, etc
> stills seems to be
> working.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Eric Wells
> 67 BJ8 in WNC
>
__________________________________
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 09:25:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking to buy a four-seat Healey - TX
I would like to offer a couple of words of advice, having gone through this
process recently.
First, don't rush it. Although there are several Healey's for sale at any
given time (just look on ebay or Hemmings), only a very few will fit your
particular criteria. Wait until the right car comes along. You will know
it when it does.
Second, don't restrict your search to your immediate geographic area. That
will make an already difficult task even harder, and you may decide to
settle for a car that isn't really right just because it is all that is
available. Air fare is cheap, car transport affordable, and there will
surely be more than a few people on this list willing to look at a car for
you just about anywhere.
The car I bought was 1100 miles away from home. One request for help from
the list netted a half dozen offers to look at the car. A thorough
inspection and report from a list member gave me enough information to
decide it was worth flying down to see the car in person. I bought the car
and had it shipped home. Total cost for airfare and transport was under
$1,000. If I had restricted my search only to cars close to home I would
still be looking.
Good luck and keep us updated.
John
>From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
>To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Looking to buy a four-seat Healey - TX
>Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 00:14:13 -0500
>
>List,
>
>I am trying to make up my mind about buying the 60 BT7 I asked about over
>the weekend. As I said, I am not looking for either a show winner or a
>full
>restoration project I want a Healey I can take my wife and daughter out
>and
>drive on weekends without being embarrassed by its looks if we go to a club
>tour or the local cruise-in.
>
>The one constant I heard from everyone is "Buy the best Healey you can
>afford"!!! Well, I can afford $15,000, TOTAL. After swapping several
>very
>informative emails with people on the list. I believe I might get the 60
>BT7 I found purchased and brought up to that level I am looking for about
>$15,000. It also sounds as if there might be better deals to be had than
>I
>have found.
>
>I neglected to ask if anyone knew of another car I should consider. I have
>found 4 other Healeys for sale in my general area, two are out of my price
>range, one is in too rough of shape, and one is unknown as to price and
>condition.
>
>As I said, my budget is $15,000. That includes purchasing the Healey and
>doing the required things to make the Healey the weekend fun car I am
>looking for. I am in the Houston area, and if you know of a four-seat
>Healey for sale that I should know about please email me off list.
>
>Thanks
>
>Patton
>
>PS I wish they had reverse auctions where I say how much I have to spend
>on
>the car, then sellers offer cars and I take the best one for that price!!!
>
>-------------------------------------
>Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
>1967 MG MGB Mk. I Roadster (soon to be for sale)
>1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert (soon to be for sale)
>19?? Austin Healey coming soon!!!
>Website - http://carport.virtualave.net/
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:42:21 -0600
Subject: Re: BN7 a Mk II?
Yes, "The book" shows a common numbering sequence for BN & BT. 17350 was
built around Dec. 1961. If someone knows more please jump in, I am far
from being an expert on these matters.
Dave Russell
BN2
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Did the BN7 share the same ser. no. sequence with the BT7?? My BT7Mk2,
> originally a tri-carb and which I've owned since new, is 17350.
> Jack
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From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:34:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "John Kuzman" <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
> John:
>
> Hope you don't mind, I'm taking the liberty of copying this to the list -
> others may be able to use the information.
>
> No, the fuel gauge will not be a problem.
>
> On a BJ7 (or any earlier big Healey with a mechanical tach drive) that is
> completely stock - ie: no diode in the fuel pump, (as another lister has
> explained this morning), and no equipment with any electronics added to
the
> car, (radio, tape players, etc:)
>
> 1 - change the battery terminals around
>
> 2 - re-polarize the generator, if you are still using it (or install an
> alternator kit)
>
> 3 - interchange the the ignition leads at the coil. The engine will run
if
> you don't, but the coil will not be putting out it's full voltage.
>
> Nothing else on the car is polarity sensitive - the original fuel pump
> configuration uses a capacitor as an arc suppression device, and the
heater
> fan motor is a permanent magnet motor. The horns, lights, etc. don't care
> about polarity.
>
> That's it - you're done! Make sure that the generator is charging, then
add
> any modern NEG ground electrical equipment (tape or CD player, CB radio,
> electronic fuel pump, etc. etc.) with impunity. It's also a pretty good
> idea to hang a tag on the battery cable near the battery master switch to
> remind everyone that the car had been converted to NEG ground - just in
> case!
>
> As I said, I've done this on all my Healeys as soon as I acquired them -
> both cars that I currently own are still running generators, but I am
> considering an alternator kit for the BJ8 - I have added so much
electrical
> stuff to it, that it may be the time now - it is currently under
> construction.
>
> Cheers, ------------ Earl
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 13:10:54 -0500
Subject: BN7 a Mark II
Don
BN7 (Sold)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
Author of "Bodies and Beaches" a Kip Yardley mystery.
visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~donyarber
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:11:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Bad battery master switch?
Bill Scannell
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From =?iso-8859-1?q?Paul=20Baker?= <paulbaker51 at yahoo.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:21:15 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Competition car specifications
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Plus - For a better Internet experience
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: BN7 a Mk II?
I believe the original question was: Could the above number be a Mk II?
The 3000 Mk II began with chassis number 13751 and finished with 19853.
These numbers included BN7 and BT7 models.
The earliest 3000 began at chassis number 101 and went to chassis 13750, so
the numbering sequence was the same.
In answer to the original question, no.... H-BN7-L2298 is an early 3000, and
most certainly not a MK II.
Rich Chrysler
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:02:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Negative ground conversion.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "Dick Gaier" <dgaier at romarindserv.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 17:10:58 -0400
Subject: tire
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 22:01:51 +0100
Subject: Is my new fuel filter telling me something?
So that I could see the fuel flow into the carbs, I've just switched out
my metal-bodied fuel filter for a plastic see-thru type. I was surprised
to find that, regardless of engine speed, the filter body appeared to
run all-but empty.
The in-line filter is around 4cm diameter, and about 5cm long, with a
paper filter. It sits at an angle alongside the front carb, with flow
direction upwards. The fuel pump runs as normal on switch-on for a few
seconds, but, when it settles down, there's no more than a spoonful of
fuel in the bottom of the filter. With the engine running it stays like
that, with the occasional 'bubbles' seen passing through the tube to the
carbs.
I would have expected the filter body to fill with fuel and stay that
way while the pump is active.
How should things be when all is working correctly? Is this just
inevitable fuel vapour? Or gravity? Or are my carbs pushing back down
the line with leaked gases? My pump is a new electronic job from Burlen.
Perhaps this filter is totally unsuitable, but I chose the biggest
in-line I could find.
Hope someone can tell me whether what I'm seeing is good or bad.
TIA as always.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 17:31:30 -0400
Subject: Overdrive-BJ8
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:29:32 -0500
Subject: Elkhart Lake Vintage Fall Festival
EVENT INFORMATION
DATE: September 19-21, 2003
FEATURED MARQUE: Lotus
GRAND MARSHAL: Peter Warr F1 racer, integral figure in Lotus Group
history, and Team Director of the Team Lotus Formula 1 racing team.
GUEST OF HONOR: William Taylor author of The Lotus Book, The Mathews
Collection and other titles
LOTUS GRAND PRIX: an all-Lotus feature race on Sunday
ELVF ENDURO: one-hour enduro on Sunday morning. One-hour, five-minute
mandatory pit-stop. Groups 2,3,4,6, & 8 only.
VINTAGE & HISTORIC RACING: over 225 cars are expected to compete in race
groups from Pre-War to Exhibition class
ELVF WELCOME PARTY: Friday evening at the track. All drivers, guests and
workers are welcome. William Taylor guest speaker.
TOURING: Track touring sessions on Saturday and Sunday. Free for race
entrants.
ELKHART LAKE STREET RACE CIRCUIT TOUR: A tour of an original Elkhart Lake
street race course. Optional stop in downtown Elkhart Lake for a pig roast
and farmers and artists market. No charge.
SATURDAY BANQUET AT SIEBKENS RESORT: Peter Warr guest speaker.
AUTOGRAPH SESSIONS: Peter Warr and William Taylor will provide autographs on
Saturday and Sunday.
LOTUS ENGINEERING: 2004 Elise (Euro version) will be at the event and
touring laps will be offered.
LEGRAND REUNION: 18 LeGrands are expected, there werent many more made!
VSCDA members John Houlton and Brian Crombie are organizing this event
GRAND STUTZ: will be stopping in for the annual national gathering. 2 cars
will be competing in the Group 1 race
LOTUS CLUB: members of the St. Louis and Chicago area Lotus clubs will be
attending and will have a car display outside of Turn 5.
PARADE LAPS: Grand Stutz members will lead the Group 1 (Pre-War) feature
race, Lotus car club members will lead the Lotus Grand Prix
SPONSORS: Northshore Sports Cars, R & D Racing, Lotus Cars USA, Dave Bean
Engineering, Lotus Engineering, Sportscar Services
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:33:26 -0500
Subject: letter from ELVF race director
Dear Team Thicko Members,
I hope you all will be joining me at the Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival at
Road America September 19-21, 2003. If you get your entry in by August 29, a
three-day entry is $360 (I promise that next year it will be a 3-day entry
and fee) which is quite reasonable compared to other events at comparable
venues. There will be three practice sessions on Friday, practice and
qualifying on Saturday (2-sessions), and a one-hour enduro (additional $20)
and a feature race on Sunday. Everyone is invited to the ELVF Welcome party
Friday (free) at the track so please have your Team Thicko party on Saturday
night. There will be plenty of chili, brats, beer and chocolate cake for
everyone. SCCA workers are also invited to the party and I hope you will
take the opportunity to get to know some of them. If you havent been on the
Saturday Street Race Circuit into Elkhart Lake, you might want to try it
this year. After one-lap of a police-led original street race circuit you
can stop in town for lunch at the Elkhart Lake First Responders pig roast
and for the farmers and artists market. This is open to street and race
cars and there is no charge. In response to a lot of requests, the ELVF
enduro has been moved to Sunday morning and will be open to groups 2, 3, 4,
6 & 8 only. Ive been working very hard the past year to make this an
enjoyable and memorable event for everyone so, Team Thicko members, I hope
you will bring your family and friends to Road America next month to enjoy
great racing, great friends and great fun at a world-class motorsports
facility.
Sincerely yours,
Shirley Murray, Event Chair
Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:48:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Is my new fuel filter telling me something?
It may be an advantage to not be able to see what the fuel is doing.
Obviously if the engine runs fuel IS flowing. Maybe it goes up the
inside of the filter element which you can't see. The flow direction is
usually from the outside to inside of the element. I think that unless
fuel was flowing at full filter capacity there would be air in the filter.
So much for speculation. I have never observed a large filter in
operation that didn't have air in it.
Dave Russell
BN2
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Well, I'm still chasing my lumpy idling/stalling when hot - thought I'd
> found the problem in the HT side, but it wasn't so.
>
> So that I could see the fuel flow into the carbs, I've just switched out
> my metal-bodied fuel filter for a plastic see-thru type. I was surprised
> to find that, regardless of engine speed, the filter body appeared to
> run all-but empty.
>
> The in-line filter is around 4cm diameter, and about 5cm long, with a
> paper filter. It sits at an angle alongside the front carb, with flow
> direction upwards. The fuel pump runs as normal on switch-on for a few
> seconds, but, when it settles down, there's no more than a spoonful of
> fuel in the bottom of the filter. With the engine running it stays like
> that, with the occasional 'bubbles' seen passing through the tube to the
> carbs.
>
> I would have expected the filter body to fill with fuel and stay that
> way while the pump is active.
>
> How should things be when all is working correctly? Is this just
> inevitable fuel vapour? Or gravity? Or are my carbs pushing back down
> the line with leaked gases? My pump is a new electronic job from Burlen.
> Perhaps this filter is totally unsuitable, but I chose the biggest
> in-line I could find.
>
> Hope someone can tell me whether what I'm seeing is good or bad.
>
> TIA as always.
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:26:00 -0400
Subject: Leaving List (virus protection NT4.0)
allen miller
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:38:20 -0400
Subject: FW: Bad battery master switch?
(2) you can add a switch on the same terminal on the coil (C.B.) that the
white-with-black wire comes from, but route it into the cockpit and place a
hidden grounding switch there as well. You can either leave the original
boot switch wiring intact (if it works), and add the hidden switch, or
remove the boot switch wire (tying it off and insulating it) and add the new
wiring. If you leave the original wiring, the two switches are in parallel,
and either will do the job.
(3) Years ago my 100-6 was stolen, but I had a cutoff switch under the dash
in series with the -12-V line feeding the fuel pump. The car would start and
could be driven away on the petrol in the carburetter bowls, but a few miles
down the road it would starve and die (I got my car back). I put that kind
of switch on my ol' BJ8 as well, and it became a habit to flip the hidden
switch before cranking the engine.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 21:10:39 -0400
Subject: Old Style Rotors
For BN1 & BN2's at least here is a source for 8 old style 400051 rivet-less
rotors. I have been corresponding back and forth with Roger, located in Devon
in the Southwest. His pricing is outlined in his first reply.
He may also have a line on rotors for 6-cylinder distributors.
Regards, allen (BN2/M)
--------------
#2 (sent Tuesday, August 26, 2003 19:45).
I thought the problem with the modern rotors was the break-down of the
Bakelite under the brass which causes the HT to short to ground (end of
spindle), so that the rivet does not affect it. In any case, the rivet is
towards the end, well away from the spindle, and some do not have a rivet
anyway. The modern ones (Mini-style, with the rounded back) have a small
square piece of spring steel, and this might be causing the problem.
My parts operation is only a hobby, so I don't keep vast stocks, currently
about a dozen Mini types and eight "originals", but Beaulieu autojumble is
only three weeks away, and I shall be buying all I find. Will also contact
various other Lucas parts dealers.
cheers
Roger
-------------------
#1 Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 19:53
Subject: Re: rotor arms 400051
hi Allen - I do indeed have a few original 400051 rotor arms, for the princely
sum of $11 each. They are getting hard to find now! Just let me know how many
and I will weigh for postage, around #3.
cheers
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 21:21:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Is my new fuel filter telling me something?
Regards.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> Alan F Cross wrote:
> > Well, I'm still chasing my lumpy idling/stalling when hot - thought I'd
> > found the problem in the HT side, but it wasn't so.
> >
> > So that I could see the fuel flow into the carbs, I've just switched out
> > my metal-bodied fuel filter for a plastic see-thru type. I was surprised
> > to find that, regardless of engine speed, the filter body appeared to
> > run all-but empty.
> >
> > The in-line filter is around 4cm diameter, and about 5cm long, with a
> > paper filter. It sits at an angle alongside the front carb, with flow
> > direction upwards. The fuel pump runs as normal on switch-on for a few
> > seconds, but, when it settles down, there's no more than a spoonful of
> > fuel in the bottom of the filter. With the engine running it stays like
> > that, with the occasional 'bubbles' seen passing through the tube to the
> > carbs.
> >
> > I would have expected the filter body to fill with fuel and stay that
> > way while the pump is active.
> >
> > How should things be when all is working correctly? Is this just
> > inevitable fuel vapour? Or gravity? Or are my carbs pushing back down
> > the line with leaked gases? My pump is a new electronic job from Burlen.
> > Perhaps this filter is totally unsuitable, but I chose the biggest
> > in-line I could find.
> >
> > Hope someone can tell me whether what I'm seeing is good or bad.
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From "Jim MacDonald" <clew65 at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 05:38:16 +0000
Subject: Is my new fuel filter telling me something
_________________________________________________________________
Enter for your chance to IM with Bon Jovi, Seal, Bow Wow, or Mary J Blige
using MSN Messenger http://entertainment.msn.com/imastar
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 05:52:21 -0700
Subject: Re: BN7 a Mk II?
I agree. My early 3000 (1960) is chassis BT7-L/3213 and for what it's
worth has a thermo carb.
2298 is not a Mark-II. But then it may have a Mark II motor etc. Seems
like some parts swapping
may have occured in 40+ years by POs.
Tracy
Rich C wrote:
>>Keith Pennell wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Listers,
>>>
>>>Could H-BN7-L/2298 be a Mk II? My BN7 is later than this and is not.
>>>
>>>Keith Pennell
>>>
>>>
>
>
>I believe the original question was: Could the above number be a Mk II?
>The 3000 Mk II began with chassis number 13751 and finished with 19853.
>These numbers included BN7 and BT7 models.
>The earliest 3000 began at chassis number 101 and went to chassis 13750, so
>the numbering sequence was the same.
>In answer to the original question, no.... H-BN7-L2298 is an early 3000, and
>most certainly not a MK II.
>Rich Chrysler
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 05:59:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Is my new fuel filter telling me something?
Check for a good connection on the fuel line fitting where it connects
to the fuel tank. Also you may have a semi clogged fuel pick up. Did
you use a fuel tank flush and sealer?
Some have reported this process clogging the pick-up. Also blow into
your fuel line and listen for restrictions/ leaks/ bubbles. You should
have a pretty much a full filter when running.
It is probably a restricted fuel line or your pump is sucking air (leak
in fuel system that does not cause a drip such as the top of the tank
connector).
Tracy
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Well, I'm still chasing my lumpy idling/stalling when hot - thought
> I'd found the problem in the HT side, but it wasn't so.
>
> So that I could see the fuel flow into the carbs, I've just switched
> out my metal-bodied fuel filter for a plastic see-thru type. I was
> surprised to find that, regardless of engine speed, the filter body
> appeared to run all-but empty.
>
> The in-line filter is around 4cm diameter, and about 5cm long, with a
> paper filter. It sits at an angle alongside the front carb, with flow
> direction upwards. The fuel pump runs as normal on switch-on for a few
> seconds, but, when it settles down, there's no more than a spoonful of
> fuel in the bottom of the filter. With the engine running it stays
> like that, with the occasional 'bubbles' seen passing through the tube
> to the carbs.
>
> I would have expected the filter body to fill with fuel and stay that
> way while the pump is active.
>
> How should things be when all is working correctly? Is this just
> inevitable fuel vapour? Or gravity? Or are my carbs pushing back down
> the line with leaked gases? My pump is a new electronic job from
> Burlen. Perhaps this filter is totally unsuitable, but I chose the
> biggest in-line I could find.
>
> Hope someone can tell me whether what I'm seeing is good or bad.
>
> TIA as always.
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:22:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Competition car specifications
Jim,
BN1 racer
BN2
BN6 Rally Rep
BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Baker" <paulbaker51@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:21 PM
Subject: Competition car specifications
> I have a 1966 BJ8 that was converted to rally specification in the mid
90's and used for two years on international rallies. I purchased the car
two years ago and now use it for sprints and hill climbs.
>
> To date I have not be able to find any detailed information on the
modifications undertaken by the work's teams on the cars they prepared. Can
anyone point me in the right direction?
>
> Paul
>
> 66 BJ8 rally replica
> 67 BJ8
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 08:05:46 -0700
Subject: Sprite MKIV 68 project???
My son and I have been looking at a 68 Austin Healey Sprite MKIV that we
might want to purchase as a father son project. My son wants a car of his
own, and we had hundreds of hours of fun working on our BN7. We thought one
of the box sprites might be a good project. He does not like the look of
the bug-eye so we are not considering that option.
If any of you have experience with the sprite, and have words of wisdom, or
any comments, please respond with any information good, bad, or indifferent.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 17:51:00 +0200
Subject: Is there a Sprite list?
Thanks
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
1974 BMW 75/6
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 12:18:16 -0400
Subject: Jim Latoff Search
Or if you know of Jim's e-mail address, would you kindly send it to me?
Thank you.
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:06:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Sprite MKIV 68 project???
In my opinion the sprite is a real fun car to drive around town, it is
dwarfed even more than a big healey by big trucks and SUVs if that is a
concern. Highway is a bit buzzy.
They handle really nicely, they say of the old production sports cars the
sprite is the closest to race ready suspensionwise right out of the box.
Look out for rust, machanical parts as I said are plentiful and cheap.
Rockers, floors, the bottom of the little area between the door and fron
fender and top of the rear fenderwells are common places for rust.
Really fun cars, go for it if not a rust bucket. 68 is a good year, little
smog equip, but still has 1275 engine, take the smog pump off if your state
allows it and if it hasn't been done already.
Don't do it if you are looking to make money off the deal.
O yes, gearboxes have the same issues with no synchromesh on first and are
often loud in first or reverse, this is not a good sign.
You can do a five speed conversion (datsun usually) for highway cruising, an
OD won't fit.
Good Luck
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
many sprites defore that
> List,
>
> My son and I have been looking at a 68 Austin Healey Sprite MKIV that we
> might want to purchase as a father son project. My son wants a car of his
> own, and we had hundreds of hours of fun working on our BN7. We thought
one
> of the box sprites might be a good project. He does not like the look of
> the bug-eye so we are not considering that option.
>
> If any of you have experience with the sprite, and have words of wisdom,
or
> any comments, please respond with any information good, bad, or
indifferent.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank Golding
> 1960 BN7 # 10610
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From ggilliam at usol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:13:31 EST
Subject: Seat rails, etc
Thanks,
Gordy
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 12:22:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Is there a Sprite list?
Dave Russell
BN2
Jaap Aeckerlin wrote:
> I've been asked by the owner of a Sprite whether a list, similar to this one
> for the big healeys, does exist for his type of car.
> I don't know, but undoubtedly one of the listers knows?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
> 1974 BMW 75/6
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:28:41 +0100
Subject: Fuel filter question - thanks to all who responded, and more
I replaced the filter in pursuit of a solution to my problem of
lumpiness and stalling when hot and idling. The water can get up to
temperature and the idling is still fine - it needs a run of 10-15 miles
before the problem shows (ie the whole engine bay nice and hot).
Got home tonight with a hot engine, and, again, she wouldn't idle.
She'll run for up to a minute after a good stab on the throttle, but
just gets slower and slower, and lumpier and lumpier, until she stalls.
Normal warm idling (choke in) is around 700rpm.
Since she runs fine at speed, I can't believe I've got a fuel line
blockage (one suggestion), though I don't know the condition of my tank.
Also, I would expect more erratic results, as lumps of 'stuff' moved
around in the line. Also, with a cooler engine, the problem is not
there, so it's got something to do with temperature at the front end.
Engine is not running too hot either - around 190-200 - and is not
climbing much when idling.
Interestingly, when the problem arises, and she's near to stalling, if I
kick the throttle, the exhaust initially sounds very 'breathy', and the
initial take up, though fairly smooth, is not as immediate as I would
hope for. This soon clears as the revs rise. I thought perhaps coolant
in the pots, but I'm certainly not losing any water.
So this is what's been done so far:
New Hall-effect fuel pump (for other reasons)
New plug caps
New HT leads
New distributor cap
Replacement coil (old but OK)
All gaps and plug conditions checked
Timing checked at idle (strobe)
Dashpots topped up
New fuel filter
Carbs tuned up a year or so ago, with a guy who knows about these
things.
All pipes checked for leaks
Compression checked some months ago - all in the range 140 - 148 psi.
I'm at the point of shipping it off to our local Healey guru, but am
annoyed that I've not pinned it down myself. In a warped way I hope it's
something fairly major, so I'll feel good about not being able to fix it
myself!!
Any last ditch suggestions from the collective wisdom out there before I
let the moths out of my wallet?
TIA as always.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:36:55 -0700
Subject: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Keith Pennell
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 16:41:49 EDT
Subject: water pump seal
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:51:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel filter question - thanks to all who responded, and
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 9:28 PM
Subject: Fuel filter question - thanks to all who responded, and more
questions!
> May I collectively thank all those who responded to my fuel filter
> question, both on and off List? It seems that, contrary to my
> instinctive theory, the filter will run all-but empty without a problem.
> Certainly tonight's run was fine at speed.
>
> I replaced the filter in pursuit of a solution to my problem of
> lumpiness and stalling when hot and idling. The water can get up to
> temperature and the idling is still fine - it needs a run of 10-15 miles
> before the problem shows (ie the whole engine bay nice and hot).
>
> Got home tonight with a hot engine, and, again, she wouldn't idle.
> She'll run for up to a minute after a good stab on the throttle, but
> just gets slower and slower, and lumpier and lumpier, until she stalls.
> Normal warm idling (choke in) is around 700rpm.
>
> Since she runs fine at speed, I can't believe I've got a fuel line
> blockage (one suggestion), though I don't know the condition of my tank.
> Also, I would expect more erratic results, as lumps of 'stuff' moved
> around in the line. Also, with a cooler engine, the problem is not
> there, so it's got something to do with temperature at the front end.
> Engine is not running too hot either - around 190-200 - and is not
> climbing much when idling.
>
> Interestingly, when the problem arises, and she's near to stalling, if I
> kick the throttle, the exhaust initially sounds very 'breathy', and the
> initial take up, though fairly smooth, is not as immediate as I would
> hope for. This soon clears as the revs rise. I thought perhaps coolant
> in the pots, but I'm certainly not losing any water.
>
> So this is what's been done so far:
> New Hall-effect fuel pump (for other reasons)
> New plug caps
> New HT leads
> New distributor cap
> Replacement coil (old but OK)
> All gaps and plug conditions checked
> Timing checked at idle (strobe)
> Dashpots topped up
> New fuel filter
> Carbs tuned up a year or so ago, with a guy who knows about these
> things.
> All pipes checked for leaks
> Compression checked some months ago - all in the range 140 - 148 psi.
>
> I'm at the point of shipping it off to our local Healey guru, but am
> annoyed that I've not pinned it down myself. In a warped way I hope it's
> something fairly major, so I'll feel good about not being able to fix it
> myself!!
>
> Any last ditch suggestions from the collective wisdom out there before I
> let the moths out of my wallet?
>
> TIA as always.
> --
> Alan F Cross
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 17:41:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
<< For those interested in this thread and to see why I asked the orig Q - can
HBN7 2298 to a Mk II - go to ebay 2428992735 and take a close look at the
BMIHT.
Keith Pennell >>
Well,
That cert is wrong. But since it's a cert, it makes it right? I say no. Those
mods were in an attempt to make it into one of 355 tri carb vertical grille
Healeys. That is a rare car, but the year precludes MkII.
Rick
San Diego.
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 18:19:54 -0400
Subject: old style rotors
Roger is at Roger.46TC@virgin.net.
For those who have not been to Devon, I would strongly recommend the extra
expense of picking them up in person. It is an incredible part of Britain.
allen
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From "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 18:53:35 -0400
Subject: Pertronix ignition - is this hooked up correctly? No spark.
I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've swapped it out for a new
one.
However - It still seems that I'm still not getting a spark through my
pertronix ignition.
Is it hooked up correctly?
White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire. Continuity light shows
power is in this line when the ignition is turned on. The other white wire
that goes to the battery cutoff switch is disconnected.
Black and white wire from pertronix to coil negative terminal (when checked
with a continuity light - it shows power to the terminal)
Coil positive terminal to ground.
engine cranks - no spark. nada
Is there any way to check if the pertronix is making and breaking?
What else can I check on the coil?
Roger B
Harvard, Ma
59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 19:33:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Rick. I have a 1962 H-BT7-L/16005, MK II, center shift, tri-carb, vertical
grille Healey. Does your comment cover only BN7's? Just wondering. JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 17:39:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Well having a close look at the BMIHT certificate (the part shown on ebay) one
wonders why the name of the individual who it was issued to and the date of
issue
were not included. Some of the photos on the car add to ones questioning of
what
is being sold here. The comments of Rich Chrysler and others are correct for the
3000 Mark II the dates of build.
No wonder caveat emptor applies to ebay.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
Keith Pennell wrote:
> For those interested in this thread and to see why I asked the orig Q - can
> HBN7 2298 to a Mk II - go to ebay 2428992735 and take a close look at the
> BMIHT.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 19:46:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
<< Rick. I have a 1962 H-BT7-L/16005, MK II, center shift, tri-carb, vertical
grille Healey. Does your comment cover only BN7's? Just wondering. JL
>>
Production of real BN7 center shift vertical grill cars is 355. Your BT7 is
one of about 5096.
That ebay car would never have had a center shift or vertical grill (as
mentioned by the seller)
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From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 20:52:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignition - is this hooked up correctly? No
All I can offer is a hand. I live in Townsend, and work in Littleton. If you
want another set of eyes on the problem, just say the word. If yours is
still a positive ground car, then we can do a side by side comparison.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Bowker - Sextant Communications, Ltd" <sextant@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 6:53 PM
Subject: Pertronix ignition - is this hooked up correctly? No spark.
> This is vvvvery frustrating -
>
> I thought I had a bum pertronix ignitoin, so I've swapped it out for a new
> one.
> However - It still seems that I'm still not getting a spark through my
> pertronix ignition.
>
> Is it hooked up correctly?
>
> White wire from ignition to black pertronix wire. Continuity light shows
> power is in this line when the ignition is turned on. The other white
wire
> that goes to the battery cutoff switch is disconnected.
>
> Black and white wire from pertronix to coil negative terminal (when
checked
> with a continuity light - it shows power to the terminal)
> Coil positive terminal to ground.
>
> engine cranks - no spark. nada
>
> Is there any way to check if the pertronix is making and breaking?
> What else can I check on the coil?
>
> Roger B
> Harvard, Ma
> 59BT7 - thermal choke and all
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From KTnKT <ktnkt at cape.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 22:04:10 -0400
Subject: 2003 British Legends Weekend
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 19:18:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
I own HBN7L 14494, built in 6/61, and HBN7L 15476, built in 9/61. Also own
HBT7L 17432, built in 1/62. All 3 are tri-carb, side curtain cars, and I
have the BMIHT certs on them. While I do not understand the copy of the
cert shown on E-bay, at least the seller seems to be honest, and admits he
does not know what he has.
It is clear, as Rich points out, this car on E-bay is not a true tri-carb. 2
seat car. But, if you can get a 2 seat 3000 for $5000, that might not be
such a bad deal.
John Snyder
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 20:15:38 -0400
Subject: Pertronix question (BN2 harness)
Why is it not possible to use the b/w battery switch wire as the ground and
supplement it with a chassis ground on the second + post of the coil. It is
either that or snipping an original wire from the harness. I tred putting this
wire on the second + post of the coil and it did not function. Is there some
kind of leakage in the wiring, or am I fundamentally mistaken that the b/w
(color 16) wire is a true ground?
Another lister who succeeded in getting ignition on a BN2/M distributor
off-listed me with information about taping back the b/w wire, so I know one
of my cerebral wires is loose. Can someone straighten me out on this. thanks
allen '56 BN2/M
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 23:08:01 -0500
Subject: Insulation/Dynamat
Also, any suggestions on what type of insulation to get. I have heard
about Dynamat but I was curious about other brands that may be available.
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:14:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix question (BN2 harness)
1) in the "cutoff" position, the ground circuit to the battery (pos terminal on
a
pos ground car) is open and the coil lead (b/w wire) is grounded (this
shorts
the primary ignition circuit to ground, preventing spark)
2) in the "run" position, the ground circuit to the battery is closed and the
coil
lead is open (allowing the primary current to travel through the coil and
generate
spark voltage)
When I installed my Pertronix, I moved the coil ground wire to the same terminal
as the battery ground; i.e. in the cutoff position the battery AND coil ground
circuits
are both open and in the run position both leads are a closed circuit to
ground. This
allows the cutoff switch to continue to serve as a simple anti-theft measure.
Bear in mind the Pertronix switches the current to the coil (the ground lead
from the
coil has to be grounded to produce spark), whereas a points set switches the
ground
lead from the coil to ground--you could say the Pertronix is "upstream" of the
coil
and points are "downstream" from the coil.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 5:15 PM
Subject: Pertronix question (BN2 harness)
> I was able to get ignition with the Pertronix after following the instructions
> to the letter (only wires on the coil being the 'return' from the Pertronix
> sensor and a stranded lead to the chassis). However, this entailed taping back
> the black and white wire in the harness that used to serve as ground from the
> battery cutoff switch.
>
> Why is it not possible to use the b/w battery switch wire as the ground and
> supplement it with a chassis ground on the second + post of the coil. It is
> either that or snipping an original wire from the harness. I tred putting this
> wire on the second + post of the coil and it did not function. Is there some
> kind of leakage in the wiring, or am I fundamentally mistaken that the b/w
> (color 16) wire is a true ground?
>
> Another lister who succeeded in getting ignition on a BN2/M distributor
> off-listed me with information about taping back the b/w wire, so I know one
> of my cerebral wires is loose. Can someone straighten me out on this. thanks
>
> allen '56 BN2/M
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 22:55:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Pertronix question (BN2 harness)
With the standard pos ground points type system the neg supply goes to
the coil & the ground side of the coil is switched by the points. The
battery switch, when turned off, applies a ground to the connection
between coil & points, giving the effect ot continuously closed points.
With the Pertronix the neg supply is connected to the Pertronix & the
Pertronix switches the supply to the coil. The other side of the coil is
grounded. There is no place to connect the battery switch ground lead.
If you connected the b/w batt switch wire to the coil + post It wouldn't
do anything that the coil + to chassis ground isn't already doing.
Dave Russell
BN2 with Pertronix
Allen C. Miller, Jr. wrote:
> I was able to get ignition with the Pertronix after following the instructions
> to the letter (only wires on the coil being the 'return' from the Pertronix
> sensor and a stranded lead to the chassis). However, this entailed taping back
> the black and white wire in the harness that used to serve as ground from the
> battery cutoff switch.
>
> Why is it not possible to use the b/w battery switch wire as the ground and
> supplement it with a chassis ground on the second + post of the coil. It is
> either that or snipping an original wire from the harness. I tred putting this
> wire on the second + post of the coil and it did not function. Is there some
> kind of leakage in the wiring, or am I fundamentally mistaken that the b/w
> (color 16) wire is a true ground?
>
> Another lister who succeeded in getting ignition on a BN2/M distributor
> off-listed me with information about taping back the b/w wire, so I know one
> of my cerebral wires is loose. Can someone straighten me out on this. thanks
>
> allen '56 BN2/M
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:24:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation/Dynamat
Dynamat is good, but I would suggest looking at
getting a roll of insulation that is foil faced on
both sides (dynamat is insulated on only one side).
This type of insulation is quite cheap and can be
bought at piping supply stores. It requires an
adhesive (3M auto upholstry adhesive is good). If you
buy a roll of pipe insulation, make sure the
insulation material is a medium/firm density foam
material (note ligher density weighs less, heavier
density reduces noise) with 300 degree + temperature
rating and about 3/16" - 1/4" thick. It should be
pretty cheap for a roll and probably about 75 - 100
square feet will do, and you should definitely put it
on the underside of the tranny tunnel and on the
inside face of the firewall and foot well.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Win Graham <win@gmi.net> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me how many square feet of
> insulation it will take to
> cover the floor, doors, etc. of my BJ7?
>
> Also, any suggestions on what type of insulation to
> get. I have heard
> about Dynamat but I was curious about other brands
> that may be available.
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 04:40:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
<< 2428992735 >>
No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried to think
of
all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering perhaps if
something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I cannot
come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is sad,
because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so many are
issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was "D",
what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a mismatched
car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me that -
wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you want it
to!
The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put forward
could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more, especially
if you had a cert forged?
Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty up-front
about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face, which
a real slimeball wouldn't do.
I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
Dick Hosmer
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From Alan Bromfield <Alan.Bromfield at ntl.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 12:31:14 +0100
Subject: RE: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Alan Bromfield
New Forest AHC. UK
BN4 & BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: RAHosmer@aol.com [mailto:RAHosmer@aol.com]
Sent: 28 August 2003 09:41
To: pennell@whro.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
In a message dated 8/27/2003 1:47:22 PM, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< 2428992735 >>
No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried to
think of
all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering perhaps
if
something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I cannot
come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is sad,
because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so many
are
issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was "D",
what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a
mismatched
car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me that -
wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you want
it
to!
The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put forward
could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more,
especially
if you had a cert forged?
Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty
up-front
about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face,
which
a real slimeball wouldn't do.
I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
Dick Hosmer
The contents of this email and any attachments are sent for the personal
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From "Haber, David J." <David.Haber at vtmednet.org>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:14:15 -0400
Subject: Brakes not working
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From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:28:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
In this case, infallibility is a practical impossibility. If there are 60K
plus big Healeys, that would mean there are 60K cards. No one can do
anything 60,000 times and not make mistakes. You'd have to check every
single one three times to be 99% accurate. If you then take 2 minutes to
check each card and you do each card 3 times that's 6000 man hours or 3
years of full time work. Boring work at that which only means you make more
mistakes. Sorry, that's the human factor in the equation. We only
approximate reality, we never know it. My certificate, by the way, is
correct in all its glorious detail.
Bill Moyer, BJ7
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 07:11:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Brakes not working
Have someone work the brakes while you watch the fluid level in the
reservoir ... if the fluid rises when brakes are applied the seal in the m/c
that closes the line to the reservoir when brakes are applied is shot ...
time for a m/c rebuild kit (or maybe a new one if the bore is shot).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haber, David J." <David.Haber@vtmednet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:14 AM
Subject: Brakes not working
> Yesterday, when I first went to apply the brakes on my 1960 BT7, the
> pedal went to the floor with no result. After pumping twice I was able
> to use my brakes but I have to depress the pedal almost all of the way
> down. And I have to pump the pedal at least twice before anything
> happens. There is plenty of oil in the container. I'm pretty new to this
> stuff so I'd like to know what to check to see what is wrong. There is
> no pulling to either side so I'm thinking it might be related to the
> master brake cylinder. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:52:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:52:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
If you are applying for a certificate, you would naturally provide all
the info you have to assist in proper identifiction. Has anyone applied
for a certificate by providing ONLY the body number, and letting BMIHT
research the rest, then checking to see if the result matches the rest
of the info on the car?
Cheers
John Slade
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 11:06:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
How do you know that the engine IS a tricarb engine? The description merely
says "TRIPLE CARB SET UP". Should we assume that only the three carbs are
there or that all the necessary intake and such are also included?
My belief is that this car is an early 3000, Mk I if you will, and that at
some point a PO has found or fitted some Mk II tricarb stuff.
Why the contradiction of a early 3000 build date and the heading of a Mk II
I cannot explain. I would tend to lean toward an error on the cert on the
MkII when it should read Mk I.
Keith Pennell
1960 BN7 3xxx
BJ8
> No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
> engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried to
think of
> all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering perhaps
if
> something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I
cannot
> come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is
sad,
> because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so
many are
> issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was
"D",
> what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a
mismatched
> car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me
that -
> wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you want
it
> to!
>
> The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put
forward
> could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more,
especially
> if you had a cert forged?
>
> Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty
up-front
> about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face,
which
> a real slimeball wouldn't do.
>
> I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
>
> Dick Hosmer
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 11:50:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
OK, the "Mk II" probably should have been "Mk I". But then what about the "E"
in the engine code? That's TWO mistakes, which happen to overlap or
interlock, or however you want to put it. BTW, the "E" is why I said it was a
tricarb
engine!
As to the party who multiplied out the number of cars/microfiche records by
so many minutes, etc., - I believe that reality is probably more like getting,
say, ten requests a day, and doing the research from an organized "database".
After all, the requester is in effect telling them exactly which record to go
to, all they have to do then is read it, and print it up. And, talking about
"knowing Healeys" who should be LESS likely to print out such a boo-boo, than
the archivist who works with them every day?
I haven't looked, but, I guess the car now has a new owner?
Just missed one of the 355 in San Francisco about 35 years ago. Found out
about it a day late. No one particularly thought about them being "rare" in
those
days, they just were, to a lot of people, the best combination of features on
any Healey model.
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:08:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Brakes not working
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Haber, David J." <David.Haber@vtmednet.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:14 AM
Subject: Brakes not working
> Yesterday, when I first went to apply the brakes on my 1960 BT7, the pedal
went to the floor with no result. After pumping twice I was able to use my
brakes but I have to depress the pedal almost all of the way down. And I
have to pump the pedal at least twice before anything happens. There is
plenty of oil in the container. I'm pretty new to this stuff so I'd like to
know what to check to see what is wrong. There is no pulling to either side
so I'm thinking it might be related to the master brake cylinder. Any help
or suggestions would be appreciated.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 13:13:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
No question, the car is NOT a Mk II - what concerns me is the "bad"
certificate which conveniently "whitewashes" the whole thing, yet is badly
done, in
that:
(a) By chassis number, and build/ship dates, the car CANNOT be a Mk II.
(b) A "29E" engine is a Mk II, hence tricarb, unit.
(c) If, by some wild stretch, an old chassis was resurrected for sale during
the Mk II build period, then the stated build date is wrong.
The closer you look at the certificate the more it falls apart. Are they
being forged?
Logic would seem to indicate that if they were, the perp would pick a higher
class example to garner bigger bucks.
We'll probably never know, but it is certainly an interesting combination of
chance and "mistakes".
Dick Hosmer
62BT7L18556
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From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:49:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
>
> Guys,
>
> No question, the car is NOT a Mk II - what concerns me is the "bad"
> certificate which conveniently "whitewashes" the whole thing, yet is badly
> done, in
> that:
>
> (a) By chassis number, and build/ship dates, the car CANNOT be a Mk II.
> (b) A "29E" engine is a Mk II, hence tricarb, unit.
> (c) If, by some wild stretch, an old chassis was resurrected for sale during
> the Mk II build period, then the stated build date is wrong.
>
> The closer you look at the certificate the more it falls apart. Are they
> being forged?
> Logic would seem to indicate that if they were, the perp would pick a higher
> class example to garner bigger bucks.
>
> We'll probably never know, but it is certainly an interesting combination of
> chance and "mistakes".
>
> Dick Hosmer
> 62BT7L18556
All I can say at this point is that they should have taken the sale at
5000.00 any more than that and the buyer would be paying way to much.
David Nock
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From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 11:11:22 -0700
Subject: What will they think of next!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
2430044846
George Castleberry
Flagstaff, AZ
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 12:12:39 -0700
Subject: Errors on BMIHT Certificates
I try to get a BMIHT certificate and I am told that the research shows
my engine number and body number belong to a different chassis number.
The different chassis number car (H BN& L 9458) is a Blue over White
healey built 3/5/60 and exported to Los Angeles. The chassis number
plate that is actually on my car was suppose to have been on a Black
over White car with different body and engine numbers built in 9/8/60
and also exported to Los Angeles.
I can understand how an engine might be swapped out of a car and
therefore have a different number but the Body Number and the Chassis
number tags certainly look original to my car and my car was painted
Blue over White, not Black over White. If the records are not incorrect
then the only other explanation is that someone in Los Angeles had both
cars at the same time and took the Chassis Number tag off the Black
/White car and put it on my Blue/White car. Why?? I can't think of any
reason why a dealer in Los Angeles would switch a chassis number from a
Black/White vehicle built in 9/8/60 to a Blue/White vehicle built
3/4/60.
So I have a BMIHT certificate with the correct engine and body number
and correct paint color but the wrong Chassis number!! Any thoughts?
Ron
BN7
Los Angeles
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 15:11:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Spam Alert: What will they think of next!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "George" <leavcast@infomagic.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 2:11 PM
Subject: Spam Alert: What will they think of next!
| Now this one is hard to believe...a Volkswagen powered Healey.
|
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6023&item=
| 2430044846
|
| George Castleberry
| Flagstaff, AZ
| 1954 BN1L-157155
| 1973 GMC Painted Desert
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 15:53:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Spam Alert: What will they think of next!
I seem to have pushed it up to $2,025. Who's next? (That's all for me.)
--
John Miller
Duty, n:
What one expects from others.
-Oscar Wilde
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 15:58:32 -0500
Subject: Germany / Austria Healeys
Business will soon have me traveling the world. I'd like to find out if
there are any listers in the Frankfurt / Munich Germany area? How about
Salzburg or Innsbruck Austria? On a similar note, are there any "must see"
Healey or British Car related events/attractions going on in those same
areas during these time frames:
September 20 - 26 Frankfurt Germany
September 27 Munich Germany
September 28 Salzburg Austria
September 29 Innsbruck Austria
October 1 Munich Germany
Any insight is appreciated. Please contact me off list.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 18:42:36 -0400
Subject: Christie's New York Auction results
1960 3000 MKI HBT7L1941 - Sold for $68,150
That's knock, knock, kock'in on Jaguar's door!
Would anyone like to comment that this sale is an anomaly too...?
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8
Bradenton, FL
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 19:46:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Christie's New York Auction results
Thanks for the datum. Clearly, auctions are where Healeys fetch the highest
prices. Private sales and even eBay auction sales seem to trail these
figures significantly at half or less of these recent auction sales.
My hunch is that at auctions you have buyers who are significantly wealthier
than the average Joe out looking for a Healey like the one he remembers his
college roommate owning. I also suspect that these "auction cars" are quite
nice and are generally the product of a complete professional restoration.
Mix top-notch cars and wealthy, eager buyers and there you have it.
However, before going the auction route as a way to cash in on your very
nice Healey, you might want to get some insights from others who have tried.
Putting a car into an auction is not an inexpensive exercise. There are
transport costs, entry fees, commissions, premiums, and bribes to be paid if
you want good placement in the order of cars auctioned. I'm not kidding.
All in all, your outlay as a seller is likely to be several thousand dollars
whether the car sells or not. It will be more if it does sell.
Of course, I might be willing to spend $5,000-10,000 to sell a Healey for
$68,000 or more. You could still make money. Like my Dad used to say, "I
wish I made enough money that my taxes were so high I always complained
about them!"
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
>From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
>Reply-To: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
>To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Christie's New York Auction results
>Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 18:42:36 -0400
>
>September issue of Automobile magazine reports Christie's New York June 5th
>auction results:
>
>1960 3000 MKI HBT7L1941 - Sold for $68,150
>
>That's knock, knock, kock'in on Jaguar's door!
>Would anyone like to comment that this sale is an anomaly too...?
>
>Gary R. Cox
>'67 BJ8
>Bradenton, FL
_________________________________________________________________
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 21:26:14 -0400
Subject: BMIHT certificates (was): Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
The BJ8 Registry currently has a copy of 428 BMIHT certificates. Some of
these are duplicates for the same car, and it's interesting how many times the
data is not exactly the same for the two certificates.
Examples:
HBJ8L/41563. One cert lists Laminated Windscreen and RoadSpeed tyres as
optional equipment, the other doesn't
HBJ8U/43014G. Ditto
HBJ8U/43002G. Ditto; plus, one cert leaves out the "U", which then implies
that the car is a RHD version.
HBJ8L/41564. One cert says shipping destination is BMC-Hambro, Inc.,
Ridgefield, NJ while the other just says USA.
HBJ8U/42997G. One cert omits the "G".
HBJ8U/42999G. The other cert gives the Car/chassis number as HBJ8L/42999.
HBJ8U/43014G. One cert gives the body number as 87853, the other says it is
87353.
For the very last BJ8, HBJ8/43026G, one cert omits the "G" and gives the
engine serial number, while the other includes the "G", but says the engine
serial number was "not recorded". Also, one cert says the car was despatched
to H. A. Saunders, Ltd., Finchley, London while the other says it went to H.
A. Saunders, Ltd., Worcester.
I could go on, for I have found a bunch of certs with "mistakes" or
omissions.
I do not know exactly what the researchers at BMIHT look at when they are
putting together the data for a certificate. But, I was fortunate enough to
be able to research the archives myself last February, and what they gave me
to look at was several large ledger books in which the chassis numbers were
stamped down the left column in sequence, and the rest of the data across the
page was handwritten. The optional equipment was annotated in codes (such as
a red circle for "wire wheels"). By the way, there is more information in
those ledger books than what they put on the certificates. Besides date(s)
built and despatched, it includes date off body line, date off trim line, date
off test, date advised, and invoice date. Another thing I noticed was that
for the early chassis numbers, the pages have been handled to the point where
the column of chassis numbers is torn and missing from some pages. Personal
access to those ledger books is probably going to be much more limited in the
future if the deterioration continues.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Bromfield
To: 'RAHosmer@aol.com'
Cc: pennell@whro.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 7:31 AM
Subject: RE: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Hey Guys
FWIW - they are not infallible. My Certificate came back with a build date
of 29th February 1957. Huh! To be fair though these guys are reading
microfiche copies of handwritten build cards. I'm with you though, the
volumes are probably not so high that quality control becomes an issue.
Alan Bromfield
New Forest AHC. UK
BN4 & BJ8
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From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 21:34:26 -0400
Subject: RE: Germany / Austria Healeys
josef.eckert@t-mobil.de(SMTP:jose
I hope this is the correct address. If not, maybe you can search and find
his address.
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Carlos Cruz <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 8/28/03 4:01:32 PM
> Subject: Germany / Austria Healeys
>
> Gents & Ladies,
>
> Business will soon have me traveling the world. I'd like to find out if
> there are any listers in the Frankfurt / Munich Germany area? How about
> Salzburg or Innsbruck Austria? On a similar note, are there any "must
see"
> Healey or British Car related events/attractions going on in those same
> areas during these time frames:
>
> September 20 - 26 Frankfurt Germany
> September 27 Munich Germany
> September 28 Salzburg Austria
> September 29 Innsbruck Austria
> October 1 Munich Germany
>
> Any insight is appreciated. Please contact me off list.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 21:40:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Yes, I am aware of several cases where BJ8 owners were trying to re-identify
their cars that had lost all identification except the body number or engine
number plates. BMIHT was able to provide the information on the original
chassis number that the body plate/engine belonged to. In some cases the
data provided on the certificate matched the owner's car, and in some cases it
didn't. But identification plates are very easy to switch from one car to
another, and I very much doubt that the researchers just make up data. They
would have no reason to do so.
BMIHT used to do such a "reverse search" within the cost of a certificate, but
I see on their website they are now charging a premium for researching
anything other than a VIN. They also say they will not do a search on a rear
axle number, which is a real shame, because I know of many BJ8s that only have
a rear axle left to identify them by. I have just been putting together a
list of orphan engine, body, axle numbers, etc. for a very kind UK friend who
has agreed to help me research what cars these numbers originally belonged
to.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Slade
To: List, Healey
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
As a follow up to William Moyer's comments, a scan of the BMIHT
certificate in question begs the question...What does "research" consist
of? (Presumably the cost of which is why the certificates are in turn so
costly). In this case, it would seem that the research consisted mainly
of copying the information provided by the enquirer back onto the
certificate. The body number and batch number seem to correspond with
each other for a basic 3000, both of which should be available on the
car to the enquirer, and the engine number (for a 3000 Mk II) seems to
correspond with what is presently fitted in the car, also available to
the enquirer.
If you are applying for a certificate, you would naturally provide all
the info you have to assist in proper identifiction. Has anyone applied
for a certificate by providing ONLY the body number, and letting BMIHT
research the rest, then checking to see if the result matches the rest
of the info on the car?
Cheers
John Slade
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 22:44:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
During my many phone calls to acquire the non-existent title, he told me
about a 2 seat BN7 Mark II (yep, same one we're discussing in this thread)
that he had acquired with a clean title, and tried to get me to sell the BN4
I just bought from him (just tell the next person you'll get them a title)
and give him $12,000 for the BN7. I told him forget it, but he called
several more times trying to talk me into buying his BN7. The last time I
talked to him, he had sold the BN7 on Ebay (it's been listed several times
previously), however, the prospective owner showed up to take possession,
didn't like what he saw (the chassis number didn't match up with a Mark II),
and he took a walk. I spoke to the seller the same day this happened, and
he said that he was going to sit on the car for a while and try to come up
with some documentation to prove it was a Mark II. I guess the funky BMIHT
certificate was all he could come up with. Still makes you wonder why the
certificate says Mark II.
All this is to say that the seller's claims should not be taken at face
value. He buys junk Healeys for dirt cheap, and tries to turn them around
and make a profit on Ebay through any means possible. I don't care if
someone buys a cheap car and tries to turn a profit by reselling it, as long
as the vehicle is honestly represented. Fortunately for me, he listed my
BN4 at No Reserve and no starting price. I ended up the winning bidder and
bought it for a song, even with a little panel rust and no title, but I
still don't like being lied to.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <RAHosmer@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
> Dick et al,
>
> How do you know that the engine IS a tricarb engine? The description
merely
> says "TRIPLE CARB SET UP". Should we assume that only the three carbs are
> there or that all the necessary intake and such are also included?
>
> My belief is that this car is an early 3000, Mk I if you will, and that at
> some point a PO has found or fitted some Mk II tricarb stuff.
>
> Why the contradiction of a early 3000 build date and the heading of a Mk
II
> I cannot explain. I would tend to lean toward an error on the cert on the
> MkII when it should read Mk I.
>
> Keith Pennell
> 1960 BN7 3xxx
> BJ8
>
> > No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
> > engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried
to
> think of
> > all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering
perhaps
> if
> > something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I
> cannot
> > come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is
> sad,
> > because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so
> many are
> > issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was
> "D",
> > what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a
> mismatched
> > car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me
> that -
> > wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you
want
> it
> > to!
> >
> > The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put
> forward
> > could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more,
> especially
> > if you had a cert forged?
> >
> > Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty
> up-front
> > about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face,
> which
> > a real slimeball wouldn't do.
> >
> > I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
> >
> > Dick Hosmer
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 21:11:53 -0700
Subject: Re: BMIHT certificates (was): Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 23:19:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Christie's New York Auction results
not every time. Not every where.
but put a perfectly done car (not necessarily concours)
maybe it is BRG with tan and chrome wire wheels and radial tires
in front of buyers with pre approve bidders paddles
and boom instant new top dollar.
Ron Rader
1965
BJ8
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> September issue of Automobile magazine reports Christie's New York June 5th
> auction results:
>
> 1960 3000 MKI HBT7L1941 - Sold for $68,150
>
> That's knock, knock, kock'in on Jaguar's door!
> Would anyone like to comment that this sale is an anomaly too...?
>
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 08:07:58 -0400
Subject: JPEG image 640x480 pixels NHC
Jim D
mailbox:/C|/Program
Files/Netscape/Users/leaker/mail/Inbox?id=20030828222419.RUFX21511.imf16aec.mail.bellsouth.net%40mail.bellsouth.net&number=10493229&part=1.2
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Mini.JPG]
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 05:54:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Errors on BMIHT Certificates
Ron Fine Esq. wrote:
>Since there seems to be some current discussion about errors on BMIHT
>certificates I thought I would throw in my experience.
>I currently own a 61BN7. The car has factory paint still clearly
>evident on all of the undersides and interior parts that were not
>painted by the PO. The car was painted at the factory Blue over White.
>No question about it.
>The engine number is 29D RU H/14752. The body number is on the painted
>tag on the fire wall 3043 BN7 9121. This body tag is on the firewall
>and painted at the same time as the fire wall and is original to the
>car. No question. The chassis number is H-BN& L 11125. This tag also
>appears to be original to the car but could have been changed early on
>but I strongly doubt that this tag was ever removed from the firewall.
>
>I try to get a BMIHT certificate and I am told that the research shows
>my engine number and body number belong to a different chassis number.
>The different chassis number car (H BN& L 9458) is a Blue over White
>healey built 3/5/60 and exported to Los Angeles. The chassis number
>plate that is actually on my car was suppose to have been on a Black
>over White car with different body and engine numbers built in 9/8/60
>and also exported to Los Angeles.
>
>I can understand how an engine might be swapped out of a car and
>therefore have a different number but the Body Number and the Chassis
>number tags certainly look original to my car and my car was painted
>Blue over White, not Black over White. If the records are not incorrect
>then the only other explanation is that someone in Los Angeles had both
>cars at the same time and took the Chassis Number tag off the Black
>/White car and put it on my Blue/White car. Why?? I can't think of any
>reason why a dealer in Los Angeles would switch a chassis number from a
>Black/White vehicle built in 9/8/60 to a Blue/White vehicle built
>3/4/60.
>
>So I have a BMIHT certificate with the correct engine and body number
>and correct paint color but the wrong Chassis number!! Any thoughts?
>Ron
>BN7
>Los Angeles
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From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 06:00:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
>I can give a little bit of history on this car and the seller. I bought my
>BN4 from this particular person in July 2002, with the promise that it had a
>clean title and no rust. Further examination after purchase revealed that
>neither claim was true. Rust was covered over with cheap metal, and, after
>many claims to the contrary, he finally admitted that he had no title.
>
>During my many phone calls to acquire the non-existent title, he told me
>about a 2 seat BN7 Mark II (yep, same one we're discussing in this thread)
>that he had acquired with a clean title, and tried to get me to sell the BN4
>I just bought from him (just tell the next person you'll get them a title)
>and give him $12,000 for the BN7. I told him forget it, but he called
>several more times trying to talk me into buying his BN7. The last time I
>talked to him, he had sold the BN7 on Ebay (it's been listed several times
>previously), however, the prospective owner showed up to take possession,
>didn't like what he saw (the chassis number didn't match up with a Mark II),
>and he took a walk. I spoke to the seller the same day this happened, and
>he said that he was going to sit on the car for a while and try to come up
>with some documentation to prove it was a Mark II. I guess the funky BMIHT
>certificate was all he could come up with. Still makes you wonder why the
>certificate says Mark II.
>
>All this is to say that the seller's claims should not be taken at face
>value. He buys junk Healeys for dirt cheap, and tries to turn them around
>and make a profit on Ebay through any means possible. I don't care if
>someone buys a cheap car and tries to turn a profit by reselling it, as long
>as the vehicle is honestly represented. Fortunately for me, he listed my
>BN4 at No Reserve and no starting price. I ended up the winning bidder and
>bought it for a song, even with a little panel rust and no title, but I
>still don't like being lied to.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>To: <RAHosmer@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 2:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
>
>
>
>
>>Dick et al,
>>
>>How do you know that the engine IS a tricarb engine? The description
>>
>>
>merely
>
>
>>says "TRIPLE CARB SET UP". Should we assume that only the three carbs are
>>there or that all the necessary intake and such are also included?
>>
>>My belief is that this car is an early 3000, Mk I if you will, and that at
>>some point a PO has found or fitted some Mk II tricarb stuff.
>>
>>Why the contradiction of a early 3000 build date and the heading of a Mk
>>
>>
>II
>
>
>>I cannot explain. I would tend to lean toward an error on the cert on the
>>MkII when it should read Mk I.
>>
>>Keith Pennell
>>1960 BN7 3xxx
>>BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>>>No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
>>>engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried
>>>
>>>
>to
>
>
>>think of
>>
>>
>>>all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering
>>>
>>>
>perhaps
>
>
>>if
>>
>>
>>>something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I
>>>
>>>
>>cannot
>>
>>
>>>come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is
>>>
>>>
>>sad,
>>
>>
>>>because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so
>>>
>>>
>>many are
>>
>>
>>>issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was
>>>
>>>
>>"D",
>>
>>
>>>what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a
>>>
>>>
>>mismatched
>>
>>
>>>car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me
>>>
>>>
>>that -
>>
>>
>>>wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you
>>>
>>>
>want
>
>
>>it
>>
>>
>>>to!
>>>
>>>The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put
>>>
>>>
>>forward
>>
>>
>>>could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more,
>>>
>>>
>>especially
>>
>>
>>>if you had a cert forged?
>>>
>>>Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty
>>>
>>>
>>up-front
>>
>>
>>>about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face,
>>>
>>>
>>which
>>
>>
>>>a real slimeball wouldn't do.
>>>
>>>I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
>>>
>>>Dick Hosmer
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 09:15:32 -0400
Subject: BN2/M ignition
Still, no roar of the lion. Where do I go from here?. . . SOS
Allen Miller
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 10:12:42 -0400
Subject: RE: BN2/M ignition
You have gotta be getting close here. Couple more things to check,
1. Is the fuel pump delivering fuel to the carbs. To be sure take the
delivery line off the front carb, place it in a can, turn the ignition
on for a couple of seconds and check that there is fuel in the can. BE
CAREFUL OF ANYTHING IN THE AREA THAT MAY CAUSE A SPARK AND FIRE AND
DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE LINE BACK ON.
2. Remove the plugs and check that they look clean. If they look OK try
this trick. Heat them up in an oven or on the barbeque until they are
about the temperature of boiling water, quickly reinstall them in the
engine then start the engine. If you have fuel and spark that is close
to the correct timing it will start.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
Sent: 29-Aug-03 9:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN2/M ignition
Still having a lot of problem getting the M to fire up. The Pertronix is
in
place, thanks to Bob Sidell and Bob Russell et al, with the battery
switch
working as intended. The spark to #1 fires appropriately in terms of
rotor
alignment point to #1 when #1 at TDC. The coil arcs to all four plugs
when you
hold the wire nearby. Choke on, choke off makes no difference. Turning
over is
against resistance appropriate to receiving spark.
Still, no roar of the lion. Where do I go from here?. . . SOS
Allen Miller
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 07:34:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
Turn on the ignition for a bit until the fuel pump
stops clicking. Turn off the ignition then take the
tops off the carb float chambers - if one of the
chambers is empty, your float jet needle is clogged or
shut closed. If both float chambers are empty then
something is cloggin fuel flow, and work your
diagnostic back until you find the source of the clog.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> Still having a lot of problem getting the M to fire
> up. The Pertronix is in
> place, thanks to Bob Sidell and Bob Russell et al,
> with the battery switch
> working as intended. The spark to #1 fires
> appropriately in terms of rotor
> alignment point to #1 when #1 at TDC. The coil arcs
> to all four plugs when you
> hold the wire nearby. Choke on, choke off makes no
> difference. Turning over is
> against resistance appropriate to receiving spark.
>
> Still, no roar of the lion. Where do I go from
> here?. . . SOS
>
>
> Allen Miller
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From "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 17:03:58 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2/M ignition
Say, one would recommend burgers or steaks on a long
holiday weekend on the BBQ. Whats with spark plugs on the
BBQ?
He ha
Tracy
On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 10:12:42 -0400
"Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com> wrote:
>Hi Allen,
>
>You have gotta be getting close here. Couple more things
>to check,
>1. Is the fuel pump delivering fuel to the carbs. To be
>sure take the
>delivery line off the front carb, place it in a can, turn
>the ignition
>on for a couple of seconds and check that there is fuel
>in the can. BE
>CAREFUL OF ANYTHING IN THE AREA THAT MAY CAUSE A SPARK
>AND FIRE AND
>DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE LINE BACK ON.
>2. Remove the plugs and check that they look clean. If
>they look OK try
>this trick. Heat them up in an oven or on the barbeque
>until they are
>about the temperature of boiling water, quickly reinstall
>them in the
>engine then start the engine. If you have fuel and spark
>that is close
>to the correct timing it will start.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Allen C Miller, Jr.
>Sent: 29-Aug-03 9:16 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: BN2/M ignition
>
>Still having a lot of problem getting the M to fire up.
>The Pertronix is
>in
>place, thanks to Bob Sidell and Bob Russell et al, with
>the battery
>switch
>working as intended. The spark to #1 fires appropriately
>in terms of
>rotor
>alignment point to #1 when #1 at TDC. The coil arcs to
>all four plugs
>when you
>hold the wire nearby. Choke on, choke off makes no
>difference. Turning
>over is
>against resistance appropriate to receiving spark.
>
>Still, no roar of the lion. Where do I go from here?. . .
>SOS
>
>
>Allen Miller
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 17:11:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
This would not be a fella out of Boise Idaho could it? Sorry if I missed
this in any earlier postings.
Mick VanderPloeg wrote:
I can give a little bit of history on this car and the seller. I bought my
BN4 from this particular person in July 2002, with the promise that it had a
clean title and no rust. Further examination after purchase revealed that
neither claim was true. Rust was covered over with cheap metal, and, after
many claims to the contrary, he finally admitted that he had no title.
During my many phone calls to acquire the non-existent title, he told me
about a 2 seat BN7 Mark II (yep, same one we're discussing in this thread)
that he had acquired with a clean title, and tried to get me to sell the BN4
I just bought from him (just tell the next person you'll get them a title)
and give him $12,000 for the BN7. I told him forget it, but he called
several more times trying to talk me into buying his BN7. The last time I
talked to him, he had sold the BN7 on Ebay (it's been listed several times
previously), however, the prospective owner showed up to take possession,
didn't like what he saw (the chassis number didn't match up with a Mark II),
and he took a walk. I spoke to the seller the same day this happened, and
he said that he was going to sit on the car for a while and try to come up
with some documentation to prove it was a Mark II. I guess the funky BMIHT
certificate was all he could come up with. Still makes you wonder why the
certificate says Mark II.
All this is to say that the seller's claims should not be taken at face
value. He buys junk Healeys for dirt cheap, and tries to turn them around
and make a profit on Ebay through any means possible. I don't care if
someone buys a cheap car and tries to turn a profit by reselling it, as long
as the vehicle is honestly represented. Fortunately for me, he listed my
BN4 at No Reserve and no starting price. I ended up the winning bidder and
bought it for a song, even with a little panel rust and no title, but I
still don't like being lied to.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <RAHosmer@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
Dick et al,
How do you know that the engine IS a tricarb engine? The description
merely
says "TRIPLE CARB SET UP". Should we assume that only the three carbs are
there or that all the necessary intake and such are also included?
My belief is that this car is an early 3000, Mk I if you will, and that at
some point a PO has found or fitted some Mk II tricarb stuff.
Why the contradiction of a early 3000 build date and the heading of a Mk
II
I cannot explain. I would tend to lean toward an error on the cert on the
MkII when it should read Mk I.
Keith Pennell
1960 BN7 3xxx
BJ8
No one has yet commented on the fact that the engine listed IS a tricarb
engine? Where would BMHIT have obtained THIS bit of info? I've tried
to
think of
all of the possibilities that would lead to what we see, wondering
perhaps
if
something were transposed, or perhaps there is a digit missing, but I
cannot
come up with a scenario other than that BMHIT just blew it, and that is
sad,
because the certificates are not cheap, and I can hardly think that so
many are
issued that final inspection is not 100%. Even if the engine letter was
"D",
what are the odds of a crooked seller being lucky enough to have a
mismatched
car AND the covering cert. I HOPE that someone isn't going to tell me
that -
wink, wink, if you know Joe, you can get the cert to say whatever you
want
it
to!
The car is a piece of s**t - anyone wanting to do what is being put
forward
could certainly do it much better, and, then why not ask a LOT more,
especially
if you had a cert forged?
Actually, I think the seller (no, I do NOT know him) is being pretty
up-front
about the whole deal - he practically waves the "problem" in your face,
which
a real slimeball wouldn't do.
I do not think we have all the facts on this yet.
Dick Hosmer
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From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 16:28:25 -0500
Subject: Rhode Island Austin Healey's
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From "Bruce Steele" <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 14:49:05 -0700
Subject: Healey sighting, LA
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
bsteele2@pacbell.net
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From "R. Cobb" <rcobb at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 17:35:30 -0500
Subject: BJ8 armrest
My '66 BJ8 has a hinged armrest with storage compartment beneath. All
the other BJ8's that I have noticed have a fixed, somewhat longer
armrest.
What does anyone know about these differences?
Bob
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From BN1HealeyFan at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 18:48:54 EDT
Subject: BMIHT
Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Bill Scannell
BN-1
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 00:23:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Follow up to BN7 or Mk II?
I don't suppose there is any possibility of fake BMIHT certificates
circulating with dodgy cars? Many who are buying their first Healey, and
seeing a cert for the first time, could be duped by even a bad fake.
Good fakes would not be difficult to produce these days. Would be worth
it if it puts a grand on the value of a car.
My car came with a BMIHT certificate. For peace of mind I applied for
another, and was pleased to see they matched exactly (and matched the
car!)
--
Alan F Cross
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:25:45 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 armrest
If your car has pull door handles and no rear radius arms it is a "Phase
I" BJ8 and the hinged armrest is correct.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R. Cobb
Sent: 29-Aug-03 6:36 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 armrest
2nd posting...first didn't seem to make it.
I have not found an answer in the archives, nor in talking with other
Healey owners in the past.
My '66 BJ8 has a hinged armrest with storage compartment beneath. All
the other BJ8's that I have noticed have a fixed, somewhat longer
armrest.
What does anyone know about these differences?
Bob
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 00:26:26 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
My understanding is that non-hinged is factory standard. Seems a shame -
I could do with a bit of extra storage on mine! Count yourself lucky,
even if perhaps non-standard.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:21:07 -0400
Subject: Healey Sighting
Taking my lead from lister James Lea Clockmaster, I decided to go inside and
see if I could locate the owner. The maitre d' was entirely cooperative,
escorting me into the dining room, where I met a Mr. Richard Noyce (no
relation to Elizabeth of Intel fame). He was dressed in a tuxedo, and his
lady in a beautiful white dress with yellow trim. This was his wedding day,
and he told me he had just driven up from Massachusetts with the top down to
celebrate at the inn!
We had a fine short chat, but I kept it kind of short, for obvious reasons.
:-)
On the way home I swapped hand signals with the elderly driver of a nice
spit-shined white XK-120!
Just the ticket after a long day at the office.
Happy Labor Day holiday everyone.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:43:00 -0400
Subject: BJ8 armrest
From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434
To: "R. Cobb", INTERNET:rcobb@earthlink.net
Date: 8/29/2003 4:41 PM
RE: BJ8 armrest
Message text written by "R. Cobb"
>My '66 BJ8 has a hinged armrest with storage compartment beneath. All
the other BJ8's that I have noticed have a fixed, somewhat longer
armrest.<
This is one of several differences between the "Phase 1" and "Phase 2"
BJ8's. I also have a '66 BJ8(36081) but it correctly has the long simple
armrest (no cubby).
The change from cubby box to long armrest (along with the other changes)
started with car no. 26705 in May of 1964. So yours should be a long
armrest version.
Hope that helps.......
Scot
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 01:05:55 +0100
Subject: Changing hosting for the UK Austin Healey club web site
We may well end up with some down time, for which I apologise. The
problem is that my dial-up is with the original provider, and their name
caching means I'll continue to see the old site even though the rest of
you see nothing. The new space will be available in the next 24 hours or
so, and I will then upload to it and everything should be fine again.
There is a possibility that the Web Forum will be down for a bit longer,
as I have to change some script paths in the new environment.
If our site is already 'down' from where you're sitting, perhaps you
could let me know. Thanks
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 01:07:28 +0100
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
I stand corrected - my response was clearly wrong.
--
Alan F Cross
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From "R. Cobb" <rcobb at earthlink.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:18:39 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
My BJ8/34501 is clearly a Phase II, so the implication is that the
armrest and console (?) are not correct for this car. On mine the
armrest/storage compartment unit butt up against the end of the console.
I don't know if the console with the fixed armrest is one long conected
continuous piece or?
So, if the console and armrest are not original for this car, a PO must
have changed it.
Actually, I'm okay with that, since it does provide a great place to
store the garage door opener and other misc. that would otherwise clog
the glove box.
Bob
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 20:21:03 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
The BJ8 Registry records "R. Cobb" of somewhere in the Midwest with a BJ8 that
is firmly in the middle of the Phase 2 range. If this is you, then someone
has put a Phase 1 armrest in your car at some point in its history.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (also in the middle of the Phase 2 range)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Cobb
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 6:35 PM
Subject: BJ8 armrest
2nd posting...first didn't seem to make it.
I have not found an answer in the archives, nor in talking with other
Healey owners in the past.
My '66 BJ8 has a hinged armrest with storage compartment beneath. All
the other BJ8's that I have noticed have a fixed, somewhat longer
armrest.
What does anyone know about these differences?
Bob
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 18:15:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BMIHT
Call them on the phone. They are usually quite
accomodating if you talk to them in person.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BN1HealeyFan@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know how to get British Motor Industry
> Heritage Trust to correct
> an incorrect certificate? I paid to get the history
> of my BN-1. It's had an
> engine swap somewhere along the line and now has a
> BN-2 engine. I explained this
> on my application, giving them all the serial
> numbers on the car: engine,
> chassis, body. What they sent me was a record of
> the BN-2 which originally had
> my engine. I have e-mailed them twice, pointing out
> this error and asked for a
> correct certificate based on the chassis and body
> serial numbers. I have not
> gotten an answer to either inquiry.
>
> Any suggestions on how to proceed?
>
> Bill Scannell
> BN-1
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From "don gschwind" <dgschwind at comcast.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 23:33:04 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Carpet Studs
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From "Bob Brown" <BlkBT7 at aol.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:42:29 -0500
Subject: Healeys in Commercial
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:47:55 -0500
Subject: New to list 1960 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
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From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 23:52:02 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
Dave
R. Cobb wrote:
>Thanks all for the information
>Bob
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From "scott willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 22:52:52 -0500
Subject: test
_________________________________________________________________
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:28:09 -0700
Subject: Carb gaskets/spacers
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 00:23:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Insulation/Dynamat
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Win -
>
> Dynamat is good, but I would suggest looking at
> getting a roll of insulation that is foil faced on
> both sides (dynamat is insulated on only one side).
> This type of insulation is quite cheap and can be
> bought at piping supply stores. It requires an
> adhesive (3M auto upholstry adhesive is good). If you
> buy a roll of pipe insulation, make sure the
> insulation material is a medium/firm density foam
> material (note ligher density weighs less, heavier
> density reduces noise) with 300 degree + temperature
> rating and about 3/16" - 1/4" thick. It should be
> pretty cheap for a roll and probably about 75 - 100
> square feet will do, and you should definitely put it
> on the underside of the tranny tunnel and on the
> inside face of the firewall and foot well.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 06:16:16 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 07:18:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Insulation/Dynamat
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 07:54:42 -0400
Subject: Re: BMIHT
Contact the new boss Richard Bacchus at BMIHT by phone preferably at
011-44-1926-641188 from US (6 hr difference) or e-mail at rbacchus@landrover
and explain you want the certificate based on the BN1 chassis number, not
the BN2 engine. Seems strange they would do that if the BN1 chassis and
body numbers match. I just had them re-issue a certificate in my name to
correct an error in the body number where they wrote a 4 instead of a 9 as
it was on the build card, so you have to check them carefully.
regards,
Peter Davis
56 100M
----- Original Message -----
From: <BN1HealeyFan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 6:48 PM
Subject: BMIHT
> Does anyone know how to get British Motor Industry Heritage Trust to
correct
> an incorrect certificate? I paid to get the history of my BN-1. It's had
an
> engine swap somewhere along the line and now has a BN-2 engine. I
explained this
> on my application, giving them all the serial numbers on the car: engine,
> chassis, body. What they sent me was a record of the BN-2 which
originally had
> my engine. I have e-mailed them twice, pointing out this error and asked
for a
> correct certificate based on the chassis and body serial numbers. I have
not
> gotten an answer to either inquiry.
>
> Any suggestions on how to proceed?
>
> Bill Scannell
> BN-1
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 08:08:07 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 armrest
Your "lift the lid" arm rest was probably installed at some later date.
The change point was 26704.
Also changed at the same point was the length of the center console
itself. The earlier style, with the lift lid had about 4 - 5 inches of
console behind the ashtray before the armrest starts whereas the later
cars this distance was reduced to about 1 inch.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Sid Bronson [mailto:bron@rmci.net]
Sent: 30-Aug-03 12:01 AM
To: Alan F Cross; Michael Salter
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
Or in the case of my BJ8 early phase II 27368 I have push in door
handles
with single signal lights with a small cubby arm rest.
Sid
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Cc: 'R. Cobb' <rcobb@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 09:04:52 -0400
Subject: 100M plugs and Pertronix
The archive search engine has several new entries (July through August) for
100M spark plug ranges, but the engine does not search back beyond that, as
far as I can tell, even if you do a restricted search. Anyway, there are
several recommendations for NGK's 6 through 9 ES.
The main question I have is that, since the Pertronix Ignitor wants 3 Ohms
internal resistance, should the NGK plug I pick be one of the BR 7-8-9 ES
plugs ( I gather from one of the threads 'R' denotes resistance, and that
someone measured it at 5 Ohms). Or, is the internal resistance of the wires
and coil sufficient.
Secondly, what are the dangers, if any, of running too hot a plug? too cold a
plug?
Lastly, if anyone can succeed in searching a search string of two words with
hits predating July/August I would appreciate knowing how. I am wondering if
when they 'fixed' the engine this summer if the search domain was limited to
threads posted after the repairs.
In the meantime, I'm off to Lime Rock to see moving vintage cars, and will
tackle my problems Moday. Have a good holiday, everyone.
Allen Miller BN2/M
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 12:04:55 EDT
Subject: dynamat
Scott McPherson
Lake Charles, LA.
BN4 Longbridge
BT7 rustbucket(for sale)
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: norman cay <normcay@earthlink.net>
To: Franck Vigneron <vigneronf@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 09:05:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Insulation/Dynamat (another choice)
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 00:23:53 -0600
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Insulation/Dynamat
Try the Dynamat website (I found it through
Google). Dynamat is actually a sound
insulation used to damp out distortion in your
killer car stereo, but they also
make a version called Tacmat, which is also useful
as a thermal insulation and a
foil faced version, which they say reflects 97% of
radiant energy. They want
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 12:08:56 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Carpet Studs
> Hi, Listers,
> I'm getting close to installing new Heritage carpets in my BJ8. The
tunnel
> in the car has no snaps for carpet retention. New ones came with the
carpet,
> but I don't know their location on the tunnel. Moss cataloge shows four
per
> side, Heritage shows three per side, but can someone give me dimensions of
> where they are to go, please?
> How high up from the flange -
> How far back from the front flange -
> How far in between -
> I can find holes for the studs that go in the rear foot well area, so
that's
> ok.
> Heritage shows studs in the floor carpets, but I can't find old holes for
> those either. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
advance,
> DON BJ8 Pandora
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 09:59:50 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 13:02:01 -0400
Subject: BN2 ignition - one more baby step
The Pertronix ignition works, but the engine backfired through the
carbuerettors and exhaust when I tried to start in the old static setting. I
tried loosening the distributor and firing at different orientations, but the
backfiring continued through most of the range. Then I pulled the valve cover
and located TDC per the Service Manual (valves on #1 just swapping), and
indeed verified there was a single timing mark on the pulley, pointing almost
exactly at 12:00 high (no reference scribe on the cover, however). I put in
part of the points to locate the distributor position where the points open
fullest (with the fine adjustment in middle position) and locked the
distributor down . This happens to be almost as far clockwise as the
distributor will go. Tomorrow I will cut a new gasket for the valve cover and
try to fire up.
Is this the right approach?
Where should the reference mark for the timing light be put? Is it a
function of where the lines match when the engine runs correctly, or some
other?
What does the backfiring mean? too advance/too retarded?
Fuel delivery seems right.
Went with NGK BP6ES, as I had bought these already from Dennis Welch.
Does anyone have views on whether they are too hot for general road use?
Thanks to all of you who have helped so far.
Allen BN2/M
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 14:09:05 -0400
Subject: Engine cleaning
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 13:55:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
I just wipe my engine down with a couple of paper towels. Sometimes wet
one of the towels with a little lighter fluid. What are you trying to
remove?
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> What is the best way to wash your engine prior to a show? I assume the power
> washers do a good job but I am afraid that too much water will get into the
> wrong places. How about Gunk and a hose? Thanks, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 16:33:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 14:41:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
Dave Russell
BN2
James Lea wrote:
> Dave. There are lots of nooks and crannies with dirt/oil film building up
> that are not reachable by hand with a towel. Some engines I have seen at
> shows look like you could eat from them and I was just wondering how the
> owners keep them so clean. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:15:44 -0500
Subject: Re: BMIHT
As I understand it he wants the heritage certificate to refelect the
chassis/body, not the motor which was fitted later (post factory) number
which came from a later car. Not sure how this would be a travesty to their
purpose. The certificate gives original color info, etc. that was unique to
the chassis, motors, except M motors, were all pretty much the same except
number.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:20:30 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 ignition - one more baby step
When I fit my petronix to my hundred Iseem to remember having to turn the
distributor a fair number of degrees to get timing right.
Greg Lemon
54 Bn1
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 18:34:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
John Snyder
> Dave. There are lots of nooks and crannies with dirt/oil film building up
that are not reachable by hand with a towel. Some engines I have seen at
shows look like you could eat from them and I was just wondering how the
owners keep them so clean. Cheers, JL
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 21:50:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
<< What is the best way to wash your engine prior to a show? >>
Hi James,
Take plastic bags and place over the distributor and carbs. Another thing to
use is aluminum foil that forms around the places you don't want water. If you
use alum. foil turn the battery off via the trunk switch. This foil also
makes a good mask for touch up painting.
Then use gunk or any other cleaner and spray the area to be cleaned. Let it
soak for a short time and hose it of. Dry it off to prevent spots and you are
done.
Thanks
Don
As they gazed the wonder grew, the more they saw the less they knew.
Harlen Tarbell
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 21:28:10 -0500
Subject: Re: BN2 ignition - one more baby step
Alan HBJ8L/34297
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 12:02 PM
Subject: BN2 ignition - one more baby step
>
> The Pertronix ignition works, but the engine backfired through the
> carbuerettors and exhaust when I tried to start in the old static setting.
I
> tried loosening the distributor and firing at different orientations, but
the
> backfiring continued through most of the range. Then I pulled the valve
cover
> and located TDC per the Service Manual (valves on #1 just swapping), and
> indeed verified there was a single timing mark on the pulley, pointing
almost
> exactly at 12:00 high (no reference scribe on the cover, however). I put
in
> part of the points to locate the distributor position where the points
open
> fullest (with the fine adjustment in middle position) and locked the
> distributor down . This happens to be almost as far clockwise as the
> distributor will go. Tomorrow I will cut a new gasket for the valve cover
and
> try to fire up.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 21:28:42 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2 ignition - one more baby step
Couple of comments below;
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> I replaced the 1967 coil with a Sports Coil and checked all the old
> stranded metal wires with an Ohmeter (all read <=0.02 Ohms). The
> distributor's spring loaded rotor contact consistently reads 14.3
> Ohms; is this appropriate?
>
> The Pertronix ignition works, but the engine backfired through the
> carbuerettors and exhaust when I tried to start in the old static
> setting. I tried loosening the distributor and firing at different
> orientations, but the backfiring continued through most of the range.
> Then I pulled the valve cover and located TDC per the Service Manual
> (valves on #1 just swapping), and
With the valves on #1 "just swapping" number 4 is on TDC firing
position. The valves on #4 should be "just swapping" for cylinder #1 TDC
firing.(#1 is the front cylinder)
> indeed verified there was a single timing mark on the pulley,
> pointing almost exactly at 12:00 high (no reference scribe on the
> cover, however). I put in
There is a lightly embossed timing arrow on the chain cover at about
11:30 o'clock.
> part of the points to locate the distributor position where the
> points open fullest (with the fine adjustment in middle position) and
> locked the distributor down . This happens to be almost as far
> clockwise as the distributor will go. Tomorrow I will cut a new
> gasket for the valve cover and try to fire up.
>
> Is this the right approach?
>
If you have the engine set for number four cylinder to be firing.(See
above comment) Pull the distributor part way up & turn the rotor until
it is pointing to #1 wire position on the cap.
> Where should the reference mark for the timing light be put? Is it a
> function of where the lines match when the engine runs correctly, or
> some other?
>
The embossed pointer on the chain cover should line up with a spot that
is about 1/2" clockwise of the TDC pulley mark (viewing from the front)
when the points JUST START TO OPEN.
> What does the backfiring mean? too advance/too retarded?
It means that timing is way off.
> Fuel delivery seems right.
>
> Went with NGK BP6ES, as I had bought these already from Dennis
> Welch. Does anyone have views on whether they are too hot for general
> road use?
BP6 may be a little too hot. You can try it but the colder BP7 would be
better. Especially if your engine really has the higher compression "M"
pistons.
> Thanks to all of you who have helped so far.
>
> Allen BN2/M
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 23:44:59 -0400
Subject: Engine cleaning
From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434
To: "James Lea", INTERNET:clocks@midcoast.com
healey list, INTERNET:healeys@autox.team.net
Date: 8/30/2003 4:07 PM
RE: Engine cleaning
Message text written by "James Lea"
>What is the best way to wash your engine prior to a show? I assume the
power
washers do a good job but I am afraid that too much water will get into the
wrong places. How about Gunk and a hose? Thanks, JL<
James,
As this depends on how dirty it gets between shows,obviously careful
continuous maintenance is the best (and least painful!). For example,
touching it up after each ride,etc.
What works for me is using an automotive degreaser or simple green and
letting it soak for a few minutes then follow up with a thin spray from a
bottle of water(for that surgical rinse). I use an air compressor to
carefully dry the engine.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 21:54:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 armrest
It got axed by BMC because it cost too much to make.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net> wrote:
> I read somewhere that the armrest cubby was hitting
> people in the elbow
> on shifts, so it got axed in favor of the long
> padded one.
>
> Dave
>
> R. Cobb wrote:
>
> >Thanks all for the information
> >Bob
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From john lakie <doelakie at yahoo.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 14:28:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: vapour lock?
__________________________________
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 17:06:46 -0400
Subject: brass nuts and broken studs
TIA,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 17:00:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When necessary to clean my engine, I use a toothbrush and spray cleaner
(purple or orange stuff). It's not too much effort to keep it looking new if
I spot clean it once in a while. I try to be careful about getting water
around the distributor cap.
I noticed my new wiring harness was picking up quite a bit of dirt. Blowing
it off with compressed air is an easy way to make it look new again. This
also works to get most of the dust and dirt out of hard-to-reach places.
Some engines at shows stay clean because the cars don't get driven much.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 01:34:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: vapour lock?
You can't get vapor lock in a BJ8 because vapor lock
only occurs in a fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (i.e.
on the negative pressure side), not after... and since
your fuel pump is mounted on the opposite side of the
car to the exaust pipes towards the rear of the car,
excessive engine bay heat will not cause vapor lock.
Typically BN1s - BT7s can occasionally get it because
the fuel pump is on the same side as the exhaust and
mounted relatively close to the exhaust. Evidence of
this is if you actually had vapor lock , your fuel
pump would be clicking very fast.
Depending on the state of tune of your car, a whole
host of things can cause this symptom. Likely
culprits are a bad condensor (when they are worn and
get too hot, they won't hold a charge) or possibly a
bad coil.
Next time the car is that hot and not starting, check
the spark and see if you are getting a spark. I have
a feeling this is your problem, not gas.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- john lakie <doelakie@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Summer has finally arrived in Central Ontario and
> my
> 65 BJ8 has not taken well to the hot conditions! The
> car starts reasonably well when cold if it is choked
>
> really well ( typical from what I understand ) and
> continues to run well at the 185 to 190 degrees mark
> on the temp guage ( keeping the car moving, no
> excessive idling, etc..) The problem develops when I
> shut the car down for a while (minimum 10 to 15
> mnutes)- and the temperature guage begins to climb
> up
> into the 230 range.(As long as it doesn't get much
> beyond the 212 mark on the guage, the car starts up
> immediately!) When I attempt to start the car, it
> turns over really well (probably faster than
> normal)but refuses to fire! Repeated attempts are
> equally futile, and usually I begin to hear the
> occasional click of the fuel pump. I've tried
> pulling
> on the choke , stepping on the gas pedal etc. and
> the
> car still fails to fire. The only solution seems to
> be to let the car cool off back into the normal
> operating range, and then once again it will start
> readily w/o choking!
> Is the excessive temp under the hood causing a
> vapour
> lock??? I'm at a loss and would welcome any
> suggestions to rectify the problem,
> thanks,
> John Lakie,
> 65 BJ8 26649,
> Emsdale, Ontario,
> Canada
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 19:06:38 -0400
Subject: Engine cleaning
James,
As this depends on how dirty it gets between shows,obviously careful
continuous maintenance is the best (and least painful!). For example,
touching it up after each ride,etc.
What works for me is using an automotive degreaser or simple green and
letting it soak for a few minutes then follow up with a thin spray from a
bottle of water(for that surgical rinse). I use an air compressor to
carefully dry the engine.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 08:47:01 EDT
Subject: Re: brass nuts and broken studs
<< Need suggestions as to how to get the rung off stud out, >>
Bob,
You can grind the broken studs flush with the manifold and then drill a small
hole in remainder of stud. Then drill larger holes until you see the threads
inside this hole. Then pick the material out of the threads. A air die grinder
also helps, but don't grind the threads away. If you get it done you may want
to look at the stud kit I make from Stainless Steel with the nuts and
washers. at <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A> under Healey
Products.
Good luck
Don
NTAHC
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 09:41:27 -0400
Subject: Re: vapour lock?
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "don gschwind" <dgschwind@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 10:42:43 -0400
Subject: Re: brass nuts and broken studs
If you hear me in my BJ8 driving past Emporia on Thursday afternoon, it'll be
because I also have some fastener problems at the manifold to downpipe joint.
I wrung off a stud some years ago, and had it drilled out at a local machine
shop and a Helicoil installed. That fastener is O.K. now, but I have two
others that will not tighten because the studs are turning. Removing the
carbs and manifold to fix it is a pain to deal with, but after my trip to
Watkins Glen for next weekend's vintage races, I guess I'll tackle it.
Since you have already broken off one stud and will need to drill it out to
replace it, you might as well go ahead and break off the other stud. I
haven't been too successful at drilling out broken fasteners on-center, by
hand, so I let a machinist do it. There is less chance of doing more damage
to the manifold threads that way.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Johnson
To: healeys
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 5:06 PM
Subject: brass nuts and broken studs
The flex pipe on my BJ8 exhaust has "separated" from the pipe in front of
the
muffler. (Well, whose hasn't at some point?) In trying to remove the nuts
form
the studs that hold the pipe to the manifold, first nut came off nicely.
Second wrung off. Third wants to do the same. Liquid Wrench has been used
liberally. Need suggestions as to how to get the rung off stud out, and
maybe
even try to keep the third one from wringing off. Tried the archives, must
not
know how to describe the search criteria.
TIA,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 09:54:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
Since no one else has taken a crack at this, I'll throw in my two cents. I
think buying a car on EBay is the worst way to buy any car other than a parts
car or a project vehicle that you know from the start you're planning on
replacing everything. The only exception would be if you could inspect the
vehicle
before you purchase or could get someone you trust who knows Healeys to
inspect it for you. Otherwise, you are leaving yourself wide open for
disappointment or fraud. If you want to get a good Healey, join the Healey
clubs, ask
around at club meets who's got a good car for sale or put the word out on this
list. I'm not saying there's not some nice cars on EBay, I'm just saying it's
awfully difficult to separate the good ones from the junk based on the picture
that comes up on your monitor. Think about it. Would you buy a $15,000 or
up Toyota without a test drive or checking it out in person to see if it had
been in a major accident. Why would you be less diligent in buying your dream
car?
Happy Healeying and good luck with your search,
Rick
In a message dated 8/29/03 2:26:04 PM, kpdii@earthlink.net writes:
<<Hey guys,
I know we have talked about this before, but I can't find it in my archives.
I am selling my MGB and Corvair and buying one car to replace both. The
best market seems to be eBay for finding the car, but I have the normal
apprehensions before spending the money. There is such a small window in
an auction, I want to do the best I can in verifying I am getting a
reasonable deal.
How have others dealt with buying on eBay?
Thanks
Patton>>
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From "Pat Davis" <PADDYMCK at peoplepc.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:09:03 -0400
Subject: BN@ ignition
I think you may be 1/2 a turn out on the rotor arm position, trying to send
the spark to #1 when the exhaust is closing and inlet is opening. This is
when #4 should be firing in the 1,3,4,2 sequence, rotor going
counter-clockwise (check the HV leads go the right plugs as well). One spark
every 1/2 rev of the crank, 2 revs of the crank for one rev of the cam, so
there is TDC with #1 firing and 1 crank rev later TDC center with #4 firing.
Lift the distributor out when the rotor is towards #4, turn it 1/2 rev to #1
and then re-insert. You must be close then but the distributor may need to
rotated to get the timing a few degrees before TDC if there is a time lag in
the Pertronix between the trigger signal and the spark. If this is excessive
it can be a problem re-shaping the vacuum line around the coil. You will be
better off slightly re-positioning the rotor arm engagement with the cam again
so the distributor can be back in the normal position. Paint marks on the
pulley edge and timing cover that you can see and correspond at TDC, then use
a strobe light to check the timing once you get it started. BP6ES or 7 grade
NGK plugs should work. I have also used the Champion RN3C recommended for the
100M but they fluffed up a bit in traffic. I have a Dennis Welch head with a
higher lift cam but have kept the normal 100M compression ratio. Currently
using Bosch W8DC which have a longer nose than the Champions and getting good
all round results.
regards,
Peter Davis
56 100M
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:04:46 -0400
Subject: Re: vapour lock?
My BJ8 did suffer vapo(u)r lock early in its tenure with me, because of the
lack of an adequate carb heat shield. The car would sputter and die when it
got hot (such as at stop lights and in traffic), and would not start until I
pulled off the fuel line at the carbs and let it pump out some gas (the line
would not have fuel in it when I pulled it off). That continued until I
replaced the heat shield, then all was well again and has been lo these 20
years.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred
To: john lakie ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2003 4:34 AM
Subject: Re: vapour lock?
John -
You can't get vapor lock in a BJ8 because vapor lock
only occurs in a fuel line BEFORE the fuel pump (i.e.
on the negative pressure side), not after... and since
your fuel pump is mounted on the opposite side of the
car to the exaust pipes towards the rear of the car,
excessive engine bay heat will not cause vapor lock.
Typically BN1s - BT7s can occasionally get it because
the fuel pump is on the same side as the exhaust and
mounted relatively close to the exhaust. Evidence of
this is if you actually had vapor lock , your fuel
pump would be clicking very fast.
Depending on the state of tune of your car, a whole
host of things can cause this symptom. Likely
culprits are a bad condensor (when they are worn and
get too hot, they won't hold a charge) or possibly a
bad coil.
Next time the car is that hot and not starting, check
the spark and see if you are getting a spark. I have
a feeling this is your problem, not gas.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- john lakie <doelakie@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Summer has finally arrived in Central Ontario and
> my
> 65 BJ8 has not taken well to the hot conditions! The
> car starts reasonably well when cold if it is choked
>
> really well ( typical from what I understand ) and
> continues to run well at the 185 to 190 degrees mark
> on the temp guage ( keeping the car moving, no
> excessive idling, etc..) The problem develops when I
> shut the car down for a while (minimum 10 to 15
> mnutes)- and the temperature guage begins to climb
> up
> into the 230 range.(As long as it doesn't get much
> beyond the 212 mark on the guage, the car starts up
> immediately!) When I attempt to start the car, it
> turns over really well (probably faster than
> normal)but refuses to fire! Repeated attempts are
> equally futile, and usually I begin to hear the
> occasional click of the fuel pump. I've tried
> pulling
> on the choke , stepping on the gas pedal etc. and
> the
> car still fails to fire. The only solution seems to
> be to let the car cool off back into the normal
> operating range, and then once again it will start
> readily w/o choking!
> Is the excessive temp under the hood causing a
> vapour
> lock??? I'm at a loss and would welcome any
> suggestions to rectify the problem,
> thanks,
> John Lakie,
> 65 BJ8 26649,
> Emsdale, Ontario,
> Canada
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from Arkansas aroung the 904s.
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:52:12 EDT
Subject: BN4 from Little Rock?
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:58:19 -0400
Subject: RE: vapour lock?
As you say "summer has finally arrived in Ontario" don't you love it?
The problem that you describe sounds like one that we have experienced
on a number of BJ8s and other HD carburetored Healeys in really hot
weather.
What I believe happens when a really hot engine is turned off on a hot
day is that fuel in the galley on the bottom of the HD carbs boils and
the vapour created prevents liquid fuel from reaching the jet.
I think that you will find that if you pour a little cold water over the
float chamber and then try the car will start immediately and run fine.
The problem can be pretty well eliminated by ensuring that the heat
shield is in very good condition but just popping the hood open enough
to let the hot air rise out of the engine compartment while you are
stopped can make a big difference.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john lakie
Sent: 30-Aug-03 5:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: vapour lock?
Summer has finally arrived in Central Ontario and my
65 BJ8 has not taken well to the hot conditions! The
car starts reasonably well when cold if it is choked
really well ( typical from what I understand ) and
continues to run well at the 185 to 190 degrees mark
on the temp guage ( keeping the car moving, no
excessive idling, etc..) The problem develops when I
shut the car down for a while (minimum 10 to 15
mnutes)- and the temperature guage begins to climb up
into the 230 range.(As long as it doesn't get much
beyond the 212 mark on the guage, the car starts up
immediately!) When I attempt to start the car, it
turns over really well (probably faster than
normal)but refuses to fire! Repeated attempts are
equally futile, and usually I begin to hear the
occasional click of the fuel pump. I've tried pulling
on the choke , stepping on the gas pedal etc. and the
car still fails to fire. The only solution seems to
be to let the car cool off back into the normal
operating range, and then once again it will start
readily w/o choking!
Is the excessive temp under the hood causing a vapour
lock??? I'm at a loss and would welcome any
suggestions to rectify the problem,
thanks,
John Lakie,
65 BJ8 26649,
Emsdale, Ontario,
Canada
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:58:44 -0400
Subject: RE: vapour lock?
As you say "summer has finally arrived in Ontario" don't you love it?
The problem that you describe sounds like one that we have experienced
on a number of BJ8s and other HD carburetored Healeys in really hot
weather.
What I believe happens when a really hot engine is turned off on a hot
day is that fuel in the galley on the bottom of the HD carbs boils and
the vapour created prevents liquid fuel from reaching the jet.
I think that you will find that if you pour a little cold water over the
float chamber and then try the car will start immediately and run fine.
The problem can be pretty well eliminated by ensuring that the heat
shield is in very good condition but just popping the hood open enough
to let the hot air rise out of the engine compartment while you are
stopped can make a big difference.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john lakie
Sent: 30-Aug-03 5:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: vapour lock?
Summer has finally arrived in Central Ontario and my
65 BJ8 has not taken well to the hot conditions! The
car starts reasonably well when cold if it is choked
really well ( typical from what I understand ) and
continues to run well at the 185 to 190 degrees mark
on the temp guage ( keeping the car moving, no
excessive idling, etc..) The problem develops when I
shut the car down for a while (minimum 10 to 15
mnutes)- and the temperature guage begins to climb up
into the 230 range.(As long as it doesn't get much
beyond the 212 mark on the guage, the car starts up
immediately!) When I attempt to start the car, it
turns over really well (probably faster than
normal)but refuses to fire! Repeated attempts are
equally futile, and usually I begin to hear the
occasional click of the fuel pump. I've tried pulling
on the choke , stepping on the gas pedal etc. and the
car still fails to fire. The only solution seems to
be to let the car cool off back into the normal
operating range, and then once again it will start
readily w/o choking!
Is the excessive temp under the hood causing a vapour
lock??? I'm at a loss and would welcome any
suggestions to rectify the problem,
thanks,
John Lakie,
65 BJ8 26649,
Emsdale, Ontario,
Canada
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 12:28:00 -0400
Subject: Re: BN4 from Little Rock?
I don't know about you, but as BJ8 registrar I get requests like that almost
daily now. It's really frustrating because the places where such information
could logically be readily obtained -- the state Department of Motor Vehicles
-- are mostly unhelpful. Either they destroy the records after a few years
(or claim they do), or they don't allow access to the information because of
the Federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act. There are some exceptions to
this (North Carolina is one), but not many.
I did not know the policy of Arkansas, so I have sent e-mail to the DMV
contact there and will let you know what their response is.
Since there are almost no sources available for new owners to trace the
history of their cars, I am trying in the BJ8 registry to document as much of
that information as is still available, for the benefit of those in the future
who might like to know.
Back to you in a bit...
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: BN4 from Little Rock?
As Registrar of the 100/SIX, I received the following email on a car now in
Germany. I don't have this car in my Registry and am unable to help him.
Does
anyone on the list know anything about the car? If so, please email me off
list. Thanks in advance.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-
-----------------------------------------my name is Christopher Henn from
Germany. Since a couple of month I own a Healey 100/6 BN 4 1957. It was
imported
from Arkansas aroung the 904s.
And it has been restored 3 years ago. It was last registered in Little
Rock.
I would like to have some informations about its history in Amerika.
The chassisnumber is: BN4L036361
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From "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:08:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
The point is, EBAY exposes you to a great many more options, and like all
things, you need to know what you want and be up to speed on what you're
looking for. I wanted an original rust-free, unrestored, factory M, and got
one. I spoke to the seller at considerable length before getting into the
mix (1-1/2 hours) and he came off as a highly knowledgeable dealer who
admitted the areas that had not been checked out. Every affirmative
representation was as he said. His candid appraisal of the cosmetics was
spot-on, and I factored that into the $10,000 post-purchase restoration
budget. What I did not expect was a perfectly re-built engine with
near-perfectly even compression, so I can put that into the cosmetics and
accessories.
I lucked out on top of doing as much as I could before bidding without
seeing the car. I had been invited to fly out and see the car, and also
could have paid for a mechanical inspection. I decided to take the risk and
skated by.
My outlook on Ebay is that you get to see a lot of offerings. Every now and
then you get a shot at rust -free California girls as opposed to sneezing
and coughing your way through New England barns in November to see crud
buggies advertised in the local Want Ad Digest; or worse, trudging off to an
exotics dealer to see prices that assure his kids, not yours, go to college.
Allen '56 BN2/M
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:10:07 -0400
Subject: RE: vapour lock?
From: Scot Paulson, 70633,434
To: "Michael Salter", INTERNET:msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Date: 8/31/2003 10:09 AM
RE: RE: vapour lock?
Message text written by "Michael Salter"
>The problem can be pretty well eliminated by ensuring that the heat
shield is in very good condition but just popping the hood open enough
to let the hot air rise out of the engine compartment while you are
stopped can make a big difference.<
I can vouch for replacing the heat shield,my BJ8 had the same problem. The
heat shield was the original asbestos and had turned into a cruddy lump.
I ended up pulling it off and replaced the soft material as well as
repainting the metal part of the shield. Stalling problem solved.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:37:30 -0700
Subject: Buying on ebay
I have purchased 4 cars on ebay. Every one of them has been a jewel that
well under the retail value. I buy a lot of things on ebay and save a
lot of money by doing so. A good example is this morning when I bought
four Michelin truck tires mounted on new polished OEM wheels for my
Dodge Ram pickup. I priced these exact Michelin tires at Costco
yesterday for $149 each. I bought all four, mounted and balanced on new
wheels for a total of $300.00. They were dealer take offs; new and never
used. I bought a Hobart 300 amp TIG welder for under $1,000. It was
worth over $2500.
In a nut shell, if you don't know what you are buying, it is YOUR fault.
Not the fault of eBay.
Bob Denton
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 10:55:37 -0700
Subject: Lug Nuts
I am looking for an ~1 1/4" long chrome plated, closed end lug nut which
has been lost from one of these wheels. They are stamped 3/8-24 on the
flat side.
TIA
Russ Staub
'61 Bugeye
'56 BN2
'67 BJ8
Mesa, AZ
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:03:50 -0700
Subject: rear seat back/ parcel shelf
What is the orientation of this piece? My guess is angle on top sloping down
towards the front of the car. Thanks.
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:21:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning
A trailer.
Pete Cowper
1960 BT7 . . . once on a hook, never on a trailer.
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 11:51:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock
An old British car geezer told me to move the line up higher and said an
old racing trick was to clip a line of clothes pins along the fuel line
to help dissipate heat. It seems reasonable that the engine heat would
soak though the intake manifold, especially with the hot exhaust pipes
down below, and heat up the fuel in the metal line. My car has always
had the asbestos heat shield intact. Since the fuel system is closed,
the fuel pump will have to "pump the air out" before it can replace it
with liquid fuel. Hence the earlier post that the quick fix is to crack
a fuel line to bleed the air out. By letting the car just cool over
time, the liquid gasoline that has vaporized from the heat will
recondense into a liquid and all is well again.
For what it is worth, I moved the fuel line up to its proper position
and have never had a hot start problem again. Therefore I can't advise
on the effectiveness of a line of clothes pins . . .
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:10:23 EDT
Subject: SouthEastern Classic
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
Motor On! My glass is half full. Gary
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:33:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
I can see yours and Allen's side to this. It probably has a lot to do with
one's willingness and financial ability to accept the risk involved. You've
both hit on a very important factor, though, and that's doing the research and
finding out as much as you can about the car and the seller before making the
leap. My experience at attempting to buy a car on ebay wasn't as good, but
like I said I'm sure there are good cars and sellers that put their car up for
auction. Maybe I should have said buying on eBay isn't the best option for me.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 8/31/03 7:20:59 PM, GSFuqua1 writes:
<<Rick, going to have to go with Allen on this one. I have purchased several
cars and motorcycles off e-bay. Yes, I have been burned once but there are
no guarantees even when you get to inspect a car. There can always be those
"Hidden" or "Forgot to mention" items. Call me simple but I believe that most
people are honest and if you do adequate research, background, etc., you can
usually get a decent picture of what is being represented and who is
representing it. While it is a bit of a gamble buying something sight unseen
e-bay
provides a HUGE market and it sure beats hitting all the swap meets and as many
shows as I go to I still can't make them all. I will also say that I did
follow
your advice in that I am a member of many clubs and I did put out a notice of
wanting to buy on this list. I got a few replies but surprisingly few. Guess
that means we all love our Healey's and have no interest in selling them.
Motor On! My glass is half full. Gary>>
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:29:43 -0400
Subject: Re: SouthEastern Classic
The main hotel was already sold out when I tried to make reservations more
than a month ago. I had a reservation at Big Lynn Lodge, but I had to cancel
it on Friday. Maybe you could pick it up. I don't have any personal
knowledge of any of the hotels.
I may be there only for the day of the car show.
Have fun!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:10 PM
Subject: SouthEastern Classic
I'm going to Southeastern Classic. I just made the decision today. I'm sure
the main hotel is sold out. Two other choices are offered: Big Lynn Lodge or
the Pine Valley Motel. Any suggestions on which one to choose and where are
most
people staying?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:37:25 -0400
Subject: BN2/M ignition
I have a strong regular spark coming out of the coil (jumps 2/3" very evenly),
so the Pertronix is closing and opening nicely.
A question that lingers is that the dwell reading (using the 4-cylinder
setting on a new all-purpose meter) is 34.3 to 36.4 degrees. The reading is
with one probe on the hot (-) side of the coil attached to the wire returning
from the Pertronix circuit; the other probe on chassis ground. This is not
consistent with the" 60+/-3 degree" spec that the Service Manual specifies for
100-4 distributors. Is it possible that because the Pertronix switching is on
the hot side instead of on the ground side as with points that the reading I
am getting is the inverse of what the manual is looking for (i.e., 55.7 to
53.6 degrees, which is a lot close to the Manual's 57 to 63) ?
Sorry to be taking up so much of the List with my ignition problems.
Allen
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:58:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ALL HEALEY LIST MEMBERS - PLEASE READ
If you have not done so already, you MUST update the
Windows software on your computer, and your Virus
software such as PCcillin or Norton.
If you have not taken these steps, you are likely
infected with a variant of the Blaster or SoBig.F worm
(virus), and are broadcasting this virus to everyone
on your email list everytime you log on
(including/possibly me and others on this list). The
virus is relatively benign in that it may not do
anything evil to your computer (just yet), although I
promise you that there is probably some maladjusted
13-year old computer nut somewhere who just got jilted
by the cute blonde girl in his class and is bound and
determined to release a version of this virus that
will destroy your hard drive in a few months,
probably.
I am currently receiving approximately 10 - 15 emails
a day with a version of one of these viruses attached
(all ONLY from people on the Healey list, I do not use
this email address for any other purpose). It is
impossible to know who exactly is infected, as the
Virus will use a random email address from your
address book as the 'sender' ... so even though you
are sending out this virus, no one will know who it is
coming from.
As a courtesy to all the members on this list, I
respectfully ask that you update your Windows software
and virus software. Windows currently has several
free security improvements for Windows 98/ME/2000/XP
which will fix this problem.
You can download this software for free by selecting
'Start' on your Windows menu bar (at the bottom of
your screen) and then selecting 'Windows Update' on
the menu. Simply follow the directions from there.
If you are using 56K dialup, the software download may
take a while. Downloading & installing this software
will stop your computer from broadcasting this worm.
Please take this email seiously. If your computer is
carying this worm, that means your computer is open to
attack. It is only a matter of time until your
computer is trashed by a more evil virus.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 22:08:14 EDT
Subject: Re: ALL HEALEY LIST MEMBERS - PLEASE READ
What PRECISELY do you mean by "your email list"? Would that be a list of
favorites that you cut-and-paste, or click on, when you want to send a message,
OR, do you just mean your own "mailbox" where the addresses of various people
you have had contact with (in OR out) may be filed?
I use a Macintosh (which, de facto, avoids probably 95% of the virus crap)
and, I keep Norton Personal Firewall and Norton Antivirus up and running, at
pretty restrictive levels.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 22:20:39 -0400
Subject: Re: ALL HEALEY LIST MEMBERS - PLEASE READ
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:06:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
The car did have the defective kingpins but that had not yet become a matter
of record when the inspection was performed and the purchase made, and I
believe that no matter where we may shop, how careful we may be and how honest
(or
dishonest) the seller, there is always going to be an element of risk inherent
in purchasing a vintage car.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:42:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
Best regards, Gary
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:56:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:11:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
For those of us who do not live in populous areas (like maybe California or
Florida) it is hard to find the Healey you want unless you are very lucky
or patient.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
Lincoln, NE, USA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 21:26:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Buying a car on eBay
To avoid getting ripped off, the rules are simple...
never buy something if you not sure whether to trust
the seller, and never make a purchase (particularly of
an old car) with overreaching expectations. The fact
that you bought from Ebay should make no difference to
this....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Allen C. Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> Buying on Ebay is sort of like ordering a mail order
> bride. There are a lot
> of horror stories, but every now and then there's a
> Cinderella ending. We
> bought out BN2/M on Ebay after some 'insiders'
> trashed it on the List for
> lacking a heater valve, having the wrong color
> reflector and other
> not-so-significant flaws, all of which have been
> corrected inside three
> months. The car is fabulous. All trim parts match
> the firewall body #, and
> the car has great mechanicals.
>
> The point is, EBAY exposes you to a great many more
> options, and like all
> things, you need to know what you want and be up to
> speed on what you're
> looking for. I wanted an original rust-free,
> unrestored, factory M, and got
> one. I spoke to the seller at considerable length
> before getting into the
> mix (1-1/2 hours) and he came off as a highly
> knowledgeable dealer who
> admitted the areas that had not been checked out.
> Every affirmative
> representation was as he said. His candid appraisal
> of the cosmetics was
> spot-on, and I factored that into the $10,000
> post-purchase restoration
> budget. What I did not expect was a perfectly
> re-built engine with
> near-perfectly even compression, so I can put that
> into the cosmetics and
> accessories.
>
> I lucked out on top of doing as much as I could
> before bidding without
> seeing the car. I had been invited to fly out and
> see the car, and also
> could have paid for a mechanical inspection. I
> decided to take the risk and
> skated by.
>
> My outlook on Ebay is that you get to see a lot of
> offerings. Every now and
> then you get a shot at rust -free California girls
> as opposed to sneezing
> and coughing your way through New England barns in
> November to see crud
> buggies advertised in the local Want Ad Digest; or
> worse, trudging off to an
> exotics dealer to see prices that assure his kids,
> not yours, go to college.
>
> Allen '56 BN2/M
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From "Mark J. Bradakis" <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: kpdii@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:52:08 -0600
Subject: Check this out
http://www.team.net/the-local
You'll need to register to do more than just take a quick look.
mjb.
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