You have done something I admire... and that's start and finish a project in
a reasonable amount of time... Just from the pictures I can tell the
attention to detail is suburb...
Thanks for sharing it..
Keith
> Thanks for all the sympathy. I need it from time to time.
>
> Brian N.
> Santa Cruz, CA
> http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/49plymouthsf.htm
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 10:42:34 +0000
Subject: How PC is your braking system?
I wouldn't mind betting that we'll have to stop saying "m*ster cylinder"
and "sl*ve cylinder" when referring to our brake systems. See:
http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/ptech/11/26/master.term.reut/index.html
What tomfoolery is this?!
--
Alan F Cross
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 20:47:10 +1000
Subject: 100M carburettor needles
My car has 1 3/4" SU's a la 100M - I don't know yet if there are other 100M
engine modifications, although the car's instigator tells me it was bored out
to nearly 3 litres and runs Dodge pistons (anyone know of this mod?)
My problem is, I can't identify the carb. needles - the markings on the shanks
are all but worn away. I think I can make out a "J" on one but it might be
part of another character or numeral. None of my books indicates what needles
the 100M kit used. Can anyone inform me of the standard/leaner/richer
needles?
Thanks
Peter Linn
Brisbane Australia
BN1 Ward Special coupe
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 05:40:07 -0600
Subject: Re: 100s NS
From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 06:40:29 -0600
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
> What tomfoolery is this?!
It is the sign of the times from someone who has nothing constructive to do.
He'll, no doubt, receive a commendation of some sort as his supervisor will
be afraid not to.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
(only offended by warm beer)
From "Amy Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
From: Amy Leslie
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 07:50:19 -0500
Subject: 62 hbt7l
thanks to all for info on turn signals and horn.do not have sheet metal
cat.referenced in e-mail or restoration manual.
have moss and victoria parts catalog and one restoration
book not showing steering wheel details. Made a rather
nasty discovery late,late,late last night.My son noticed
sooner than i, with engine and tran. out discovered R.H.
frame rail from x at tran to front end, bent in with the front
right outrigger as fulcrum .What next new frame rail or
would laser frame machine do the trick I don,t know if the thin frame metal
would take the abuse?Thanks to all
who have responded to my frame problems not the first to run into this I
quess
Kurt l Mass.
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Amy Leslie
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 08:19:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Terry
>
>You can add this horrible movie called "Bliss" to the
>list.
>
>The protagonist drives a very pretty BJ8 throughout
>the movie.
>
>I had taken a very attractive Spanish woman to this
>movie on a first date. I thought this movie (seeing a
>preview with him driving a healey) was going to a very
>romantic movie about a very suave and dashing young
>man.
>
>Imagine my horror when, about 1/4 of the way to the
>movie, it turned out to be some off the wall New Age
>movie that .... get this .... centered around
>masturbation (this new age psychiatrist was trying to
>fix this Healey guy's love life by telling him to
>masturbate five times a day... day and night.... more
>or less!).
>
>I was on a first date for god's sake! Imagine my
>discomfort for sitting through over an hour watching a
>movie about a guy masturbating at work, at home, and
>just about everywhere else.
>
>Well, we had fun for a few dates and never got back
>together after that.
>
>Stay away from Bliss!!!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Amy Leslie" <kansl@net1plus.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 07:50:36 -0600
Subject: Fw: 62 hbt7l
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Amy Leslie
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 6:02 AM
> Subject: 62 hbt7l
>
>
> thanks to all for info on turn signals and horn.do not have sheet metal
> cat.referenced in e-mail or restoration manual.
> have moss and victoria parts catalog and one restoration
> book not showing steering wheel details. Made a rather
> nasty discovery late,late,late last night.My son noticed
> sooner than i, with engine and tran. out discovered R.H.
> frame rail from x at tran to front end, bent in with the front
> right outrigger as fulcrum .What next new frame rail or
> would laser frame machine do the trick I don,t know if the thin frame
metal
> would take the abuse?Thanks to all
> who have responded to my frame problems not the first to run into this I
> quess
>
> Kurt l Mass.
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Amy Leslie" <kansl@net1plus.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 07:59:10 -0600
Subject: RE: Healeys on Film - horror story
but...
there's always appeared to be a disproportionate amount of wankers in the
Healey community....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Denton
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 10:19 AM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: Terry Blubaugh; Healey List
Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
I'm curious as why it was important to say that the pretty young woman
was Spanish. Is masturbation a serious problem among the Spanish?
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Terry
>
>You can add this horrible movie called "Bliss" to the
>list.
>
>The protagonist drives a very pretty BJ8 throughout
>the movie.
>
>I had taken a very attractive Spanish woman to this
>movie on a first date. I thought this movie (seeing a
>preview with him driving a healey) was going to a very
>romantic movie about a very suave and dashing young
>man.
>
>Imagine my horror when, about 1/4 of the way to the
>movie, it turned out to be some off the wall New Age
>movie that .... get this .... centered around
>masturbation (this new age psychiatrist was trying to
>fix this Healey guy's love life by telling him to
>masturbate five times a day... day and night.... more
>or less!).
>
>I was on a first date for god's sake! Imagine my
>discomfort for sitting through over an hour watching a
>movie about a guy masturbating at work, at home, and
>just about everywhere else.
>
>Well, we had fun for a few dates and never got back
>together after that.
>
>Stay away from Bliss!!!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'5
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 09:00:44 -0500
Subject: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 09:15:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
tom.
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> Cc: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/1/03 8:20:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
>
> I'm curious as why it was important to say that the pretty young woman
> was Spanish. Is masturbation a serious problem among the Spanish?
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> >Terry
> >
> >You can add this horrible movie called "Bliss" to the
> >list.
> >
> >The protagonist drives a very pretty BJ8 throughout
> >the movie.
> >
> >I had taken a very attractive Spanish woman to this
> >movie on a first date. I thought this movie (seeing a
> >preview with him driving a healey) was going to a very
> >romantic movie about a very suave and dashing young
> >man.
> >
> >Imagine my horror when, about 1/4 of the way to the
> >movie, it turned out to be some off the wall New Age
> >movie that .... get this .... centered around
> >masturbation (this new age psychiatrist was trying to
> >fix this Healey guy's love life by telling him to
> >masturbate five times a day... day and night.... more
> >or less!).
> >
> >I was on a first date for god's sake! Imagine my
> >discomfort for sitting through over an hour watching a
> >movie about a guy masturbating at work, at home, and
> >just about everywhere else.
> >
> >Well, we had fun for a few dates and never got back
> >together after that.
> >
> >Stay away from Bliss!!!
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
!
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 06:49:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
tom felts wrote:
>No, probably only the "master" part of it------oh--and maybe the slave.
>
>tom.
>
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Bob Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>>To: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>>Cc: Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; Healey List
>>
>>
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>
>
>>Date: 12/1/03 8:20:44 AM
>>Subject: Re: Healeys on Film - horror story
>>
>>I'm curious as why it was important to say that the pretty young woman
>>was Spanish. Is masturbation a serious problem among the Spanish?
>>
>>Blue One Hundred wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Terry
>>>
>>>You can add this horrible movie called "Bliss" to the
>>>list.
>>>
>>>The protagonist drives a very pretty BJ8 throughout
>>>the movie.
>>>
>>>I had taken a very attractive Spanish woman to this
>>>movie on a first date. I thought this movie (seeing a
>>>preview with him driving a healey) was going to a very
>>>romantic movie about a very suave and dashing young
>>>man.
>>>
>>>Imagine my horror when, about 1/4 of the way to the
>>>movie, it turned out to be some off the wall New Age
>>>movie that .... get this .... centered around
>>>masturbation (this new age psychiatrist was trying to
>>>fix this Healey guy's love life by telling him to
>>>masturbate five times a day... day and night.... more
>>>or less!).
>>>
>>>I was on a first date for god's sake! Imagine my
>>>discomfort for sitting through over an hour watching a
>>>movie about a guy masturbating at work, at home, and
>>>just about everywhere else.
>>>
>>>Well, we had fun for a few dates and never got back
>>>together after that.
>>>
>>>Stay away from Bliss!!!
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>Alan
>>>
>>>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>>>
>>>
>!
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 10:23:38 -0500
Subject: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
I'm still working on a prize.
How about a coupon for a ride in AHX12!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 10:50:33 -0600
Subject: Re: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
Michael Salter wrote:
> I have a new "name that part" contest.
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/top.jpg
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/bottom.jpg
> The first completely answer will be the winner!
> A completely correct answer will include:
> A good description of what the part does,
> The Workshop Manual or Parts Book name for the part.
> The factory Part Number for the part.
> The model(s) of Big Healey that it fits.
> Clue #1:
> "This thing may be really big,
> Or it may be really small,
> The truth is it's really rare,
> And that is why it's here at all."
>
> I'm still working on a prize.
> How about a coupon for a ride in AHX12!!
>
> Michael Salter
From "Rick" <webmasterrick at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 10:08:18 -0600
Subject: Road Wheels for 100s
" http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/24whl5.jpg
This is on our normal 100 Register WEB site but 'free standing'. There
are no links or surrounding HTML to it, so you will have to use the
address above exactly as it is."
I will have it up on Ed's site soon.
www.justbrits.com
Regards........
Rick
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 11:50:01 -0500
Subject: RE: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper [mailto:AH@jharper.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 11:37 AM
To: Michael Salter
Subject: Re: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
Michael
My input for what it is worth
The spacer in the front hub that holds the inners of the bearings firmly
in place and accurately spaced to give the correct running clearance
Distance piece
1G 4402
Just the BN1. It does not quite look correct for six cylinder cars.
However it would fit an A40 Somerset, A70 Hereford etc.
All the best
>I have a new "name that part" contest.
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/top.jpg
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/bottom.jpg
>The first completely answer will be the winner!
>A completely correct answer will include:
> A good description of what the part does,
> The Workshop Manual or Parts Book name for the part.
> The factory Part Number for the part.
> The model(s) of Big Healey that it fits.
--
John Harper
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 11:56:34 EST
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
<< http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/ptech/11/26/master.term.reut/index.html
>>
You cannot believe how much I wish that WAS just "tomfoolery". I am neither a
bigot nor a racist, but at times I am DEEPLY ashamed of the sheer idiocy
spouted by some of my fellow citizens. The worst part is that they are
completely
serious. The children of the 60s are now in decision-making positions, and
some of them have lost their senses.
Dick Hosmer
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 11:39:52 -0600
Subject: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7 - MANY THANKS
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 4:40 PM
To: Brashear, Jack, N; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7
jack,
i know we have some spare brackets at dick solomon's. i'll check sat.
to see if we have lh rear.
happy healeying,
jerry
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
>
> Hi All, I'm in dire need of the Left side Rear side curtain mounting
> bracket for my BT7. The side curtains are the originals that came
new
> with the car. Sounds crazy, but I have two right hand rear brackets.
> Can someone please help me out?? Please, please?? Thanks,
>
> Jack
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 14:10:46 -0600
Subject: More on side curtain brackets
Thanks
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 15:32:25 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Reddish Brown Primer
In a word No. The reddish primer on the back side of the BN1/2 dash is
different from the dark, chocolate brown primer. That color was used to prime
the
entire chassis as well as the seat pans, seat backs, transmission and
drivshaft tunnel, parcel shelf and the removable transmission firewall.
The reddish primer on the back of the dash is very similar in color to the
"Rustoleum" brand red primer. As stated by others on the list, the dark
chocolate brown primer can be custom mixed and matched fairly easily.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 11/30/03 3:09:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, wt3w@enter.net
writes:
<< BlankHas anybody know of a paint code or off the shelf paint that is close
to
the Reddish Brown Primer used behind the dash, and is this same color that is
used for the metal seat pans?
Thanks,
Tim >>
From N0040 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 17:29:58 EST
Subject: Re: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
I didn't even get a chance to give up .....
Mike, .... somebody was looking over your shoulder when you typed in the clue
1
(....better get a better Anti-Virus software)
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 14:25:16 -0800
Subject: Re: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
Michael Salter wrote:
>John got it...
>
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Harper [mailto:AH@jharper.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 11:37 AM
>To: Michael Salter
>Subject: Re: New "Name That Part" contest. Delete if not interested.
>
>Michael
>
>My input for what it is worth
>
>The spacer in the front hub that holds the inners of the bearings firmly
>
>in place and accurately spaced to give the correct running clearance
>
>Distance piece
>
>1G 4402
>
>Just the BN1. It does not quite look correct for six cylinder cars.
>However it would fit an A40 Somerset, A70 Hereford etc.
>
>All the best
>
>
>
>>I have a new "name that part" contest.
>>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/top.jpg
>>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/pictures/bottom.jpg
>>The first completely answer will be the winner!
>>A completely correct answer will include:
>> A good description of what the part does,
>> The Workshop Manual or Parts Book name for the part.
>> The factory Part Number for the part.
>> The model(s) of Big Healey that it fits.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 14:26:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7 - MANY THANKS
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
>Many thanks to all you who responded to my search for a LH rear side
>curtain bracket. As it turned out, another lister practically in my own
>back yard had an extra that cleaned up very nicely. It's truly amazing
>what one can find in parts and information on this awesome list. Thanks
>again for the help and interest!!
>Jack
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jerry Wall [mailto:jwbn6@iopener.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 4:40 PM
>To: Brashear, Jack, N; healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Desperately need a side curtain bracket - BT7
>
>jack,
>i know we have some spare brackets at dick solomon's. i'll check sat.
>to see if we have lh rear.
>happy healeying,
>jerry
>Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> >
> > Hi All, I'm in dire need of the Left side Rear side curtain mounting
> > bracket for my BT7. The side curtains are the originals that came
>new
> > with the car. Sounds crazy, but I have two right hand rear brackets.
> > Can someone please help me out?? Please, please?? Thanks,
> >
> > Jack
>
>*
From "Rod Shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 09:11:43 +1000
Subject: 100M H6 Carbies.
My references provide the following details for your carbies - Needles are OA7
standard, OA6 rich, OA8 lean. Jet size is 0.100 and damper spring colour is
Red.
Hope this helps mate,
Rod Shepherd.
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:28:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Amy's Healey
There is a question in there somewhere...
Healeys are famous for hiding rust in the inner sills. The
main frame rails are very robust (maybe 3/16" or 4mm
thick), and require more than an average home welder
to weld completely through the material. But since you
have experience with construction equipment (which
implies big, heavy metal), I'm guessing you could cut out
the bad piece and weld in the proper size and thickness
patch. If you have any concern about welding, have it
patched locally, or you can replace the entire frame with
a Jule frame (http://www.jule-enterprises.com).
Other things? Well, the car is at least 35 years old.
If it was never restored, anything rubber will need to
be replaced. The engines are robust, but at that age
may need some attention. The rear axles are rugged.
Brakes are important and likely need to be replaced.
The interior has probably suffered years of weathering.
Should I go on?
Depending on the model (please, tell us), it could cost
you about $30K to end up with a car worth $20K. :-)
But you can save a lot of money if you do it yourself.
And think of the fun you'll have.
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Lists, Healey
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 16:22:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##?
If you did go Hades, you wouldn't need the heater. :-)
Kent
'56 BN2
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:07:52 -0600
Subject: Road Wheels for 100s
> John Harper has been having a problem getting the following posted, so
here:
>
> " http://www.jharper.demon.co.uk/24whl5.jpg
>
> This is on our normal 100 Register WEB site but 'free standing'. There
> are no links or surrounding HTML to it, so you will have to use the
> address above exactly as it is."
>
> I will have it up on Ed's site soon.
>
> www.justbrits.com
>
> Regards........
>
> Rick
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 16:16:09 -0800
Subject: sighting Newpor Beach
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 19:52:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 12:05 AM
Subject: Master cylinder rebuild or buy new? 60 BN7
> http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm#ukmaster
>
> YIKES!!!
>
> As I price rebuilds I start to think that my talents may be needed to hone
> these old cylinders. I rebuilt my MGA cylinders and it lasted for approx 1
> year. Talents limited...Then I ordered new from Apple.
>
> I suppose the stone hones just do not get the bores as smooth as needed. I
> was wanting to get stainless sleeves installed for the Healey but the
Apple
> website says call for price. You know what that means...
>
> Are new cylinders from Moss of good quality or does anyone suggest having
> the cylinders resleeved? It looks as though it will cost $95 min per
> cylinder compared to $80ea new Moss. I need to rebuild my frozen front
> calipers also. Looks like $95 each. I have repair kits but I'm worried
they
> will leak after intallation.
>
> Thanks for any advice!
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> 60 Mashed BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 19:57:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Amy's Healey
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent McLean
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Amy's Healey
Healeys are famous for hiding rust in the inner sills. The
main frame rails are very robust (maybe 3/16" or 4mm
thick), and require more than an average home welder
to weld completely through the material.
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:03:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Amy's Healey
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 7:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Amy's Healey
Hmmm... my recollection is that the main frame rails are about 0.063",
or
1/16" thick. Due to too many times hitting those concrete parking space
bumpers with the anti-sway bar brackets, I had to replace the part of
the
frame that the brackets are attached to. I measured the thickness of a
spare
BJ8 frame so as to be able to get the right gauge steel for the patches.
63
thou was about right.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent McLean
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Amy's Healey
Healeys are famous for hiding rust in the inner sills. The
main frame rails are very robust (maybe 3/16" or 4mm
thick), and require more than an average home welder
to weld completely through the material.
From "Jerry Goodman" <Jerry.Goodman at comcast.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 19:57:40 -0600
Subject: 1275 conversion
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 18:29:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
As someone who has both Chinese and Native American
blood in him (as well as Caucasian), I therefore now
request that we observe the following:
The name of the country of India is disrespectful to
my people. Please change the name "India" to
"Not-Native America"
The name of the "Chinese Fire Drill" should be changed
to
"Silly-Funny-Ha-Ha-running-around-stupidly-no-offense-to-the-Chinese-drill"
"Female" and "Male" brake & pneumatic connectors need
to now be referred to as "Pre-operational
non-homophobic transexual" and "Post operational
transgender" non-gender specific connectors/adaptors.
As an American of mixed race, by the way, allow me to
quote the US' greatest president, Theodore Roosevelt:
"The man who calls himself an American citizen and who
yet shows by his actions that he is primarily the
citizen of a foreign land, plays a thoroughly
mischievous part in the life of our body politic. He
has no place here; and the sooner he returns to the
land to which he feels his real heart-allegiance, the
better it will be for every good American. There is no
such thing as a hyphenated American who is a good
American. The only man who is a good American is the
man who is an American and nothing else. "
I hope all the "African-" Americans looking to change
the names of Master/Slave on their computer equipment
will one day understand this quote and what it really
means.
Regards,
Alan
American
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Hey, guys,
>
> I wouldn't mind betting that we'll have to stop
> saying "m*ster cylinder"
> and "sl*ve cylinder" when referring to our brake
> systems. See:
>
>
http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/ptech/11/26/master.term.reut/index.html
>
> What tomfoolery is this?!
> --
> Alan F Cross
From dkveuro at juno.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:37:45 -0600
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
Then call it a 'primary' cylinder and a 'secondary' cylinder.
Why do batteries have.."Do not drink the contents." on them, and "In
case of ingestion seek medical help, do not induce vomiting."
Why the hell would you call medical help for someone stupid enough to do
this !
Why is there First Class if there is no Second Class.
Emergency Brake....Ever tried to stop from 70 mph with it ?
Darwin Effect......Survival of the fittest.
Chinese to Oriental.
Native American ? Didn't THEY come from somewhere else ? I seem to
remember ......" land bridge.?.."
Me? I'm Anglo Saxon, Scot.....Mmmmm, or maybe, Ass.!
dk
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 21:25:51 -0800
Subject: Re: How PC are you?
> This is just another sad reminder of how absolutely
> thin skinned many Americans, and particularly
> Californians, are. If the world becomes so candy
> coated, then no one will ever need to be responsible
> for their own actions.
>
Excuse me! As a very rare 5TH GENERATION CALIFORNIAN, I have no problem NOT
being politically correct. The thing that pisses me off is that this is going
to cost me tax $'s! Can't handle Master/slave, how stupid is that? Are we now
going to also rename Male/female plugs?
Yeah, I didn't vote for the "new guy" either.
BTW I also hate what we did to our Native Americans in the 19th century. But
they are getting us back with their tax free casinos, aren't they?
This is not the kind discussion for this List. Please don't flame me "on List",
I won't respond. If you want to discuss this personally, feel free, you have my
email address..
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663
From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 07:11:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 7:55 PM
Subject: Did I go to He##?
> Or was I just changing heater hoses on a Healey?
>
> I had no idea it would be so difficult!
>
> Brian N.
>
> http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 08:40:21 -0500
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/1/03 9:31:10 PM
> Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
>
> This is just another sad reminder of how absolutely
> thin skinned many Americans, and particularly
> Californians, are. If the world becomes so candy
> coated, then no one will ever need to be responsible
> for their own actions.
>
> As someone who has both Chinese and Native American
> blood in him (as well as Caucasian), I therefore now
> request that we observe the following:
>
> The name of the country of India is disrespectful to
> my people. Please change the name "India" to
> "Not-Native America"
>
> The name of the "Chinese Fire Drill" should be changed
> to
>
"Silly-Funny-Ha-Ha-running-around-stupidly-no-offense-to-the-Chinese-drill"
>
> "Female" and "Male" brake & pneumatic connectors need
> to now be referred to as "Pre-operational
> non-homophobic transexual" and "Post operational
> transgender" non-gender specific connectors/adaptors.
>
> As an American of mixed race, by the way, allow me to
> quote the US' greatest president, Theodore Roosevelt:
>
> "The man who calls himself an American citizen and who
> yet shows by his actions that he is primarily the
> citizen of a foreign land, plays a thoroughly
> mischievous part in the life of our body politic. He
> has no place here; and the sooner he returns to the
> land to which he feels his real heart-allegiance, the
> better it will be for every good American. There is no
> such thing as a hyphenated American who is a good
> American. The only man who is a good American is the
> man who is an American and nothing else. "
>
> I hope all the "African-" Americans looking to change
> the names of Master/Slave on their computer equipment
> will one day understand this quote and what it really
> means.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
> American
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>
>
> --- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> > Hey, guys,
> >
> > I wouldn't mind betting that we'll have to stop
> > saying "m*ster cylinder"
> > and "sl*ve cylinder" when referring to our brake
> > systems. See:
> >
> >
> http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/ptech/11/26/master.term.reut/index.html
> >
> > What tomfoolery is this?!
> > --
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 08:55:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
> [Original Message]
> From: Mick VanderPloeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
> To: Brian N <brian@beachcitygas.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/2/03 7:17:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
>
> The heater hoses were a pain, but if you truly want to experience hell,
try
> any of the following:
> - Installing the nuts that hold the driver's seat rail in place...After
the
> exhaust and heat shield are installed!
> - Installing the emergency brake cable with the drive shaft installed
> - Installing the fender spears...After the fenders are installed, and the
> heater hose and heater fan are installed!
> - Reassembling the door handles after they've been 'show quality triple
> plated'.
> For the ultimate experience, do them all! Just make sure the kids aren't
> around at the time.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
> To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 7:55 PM
> Subject: Did I go to He##?
>
>
> > Or was I just changing heater hoses on a Healey?
> >
> > I had no idea it would be so difficult!
> >
> > Brian N.
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 09:31:50 -0600
Subject: GM vs. Microsoft - auto/computer joke, no LBC content
GM vs. Microsoft
For all of us who feel only the deepest love and affection for the way
computers have enhanced our lives, read on. At a recent computer expo
(COMDEX), Bill Gates reportedly compared the computer industry with the
auto industry and stated, "If GM had kept up with technology like the
computer industry has, we would all be driving $25.00 cars that got
1,000 miles to the gallon".
In response to Bill's comments, General Motors issued a press release
stating: If GM had developed technology like Microsoft, we would all be
driving cars with the following characteristics:
1. For no reason whatsoever, your car would crash twice a day.
2. Every time they repainted the lines in the road, you would have to
buy a new car.
3. Occasionally your car would die on the freeway for no reason. You
would have to pull over to the side of the road, close all of the
windows, shut off the car, restart it, and reopen the windows before you
could continue. For some reason you would simply accept this.
4. Occasionally, executing a maneuver such as a left turn would cause
your car to shut down and refuse to restart, in which case you would
have to reinstall the engine.
5. Macintosh would make a car that was powered by the sun, was reliable,
five times as fast and twice as easy to drive - but would run on only
five percent of the roads.
6. The oil, water temperature, and alternator warning lights would all
be replaced by a single "This Car Has Performed An Illegal Operation"
warning light.
7. The airbag system would ask "Are you sure?" before deploying.
8. Occasionally, for no reason whatsoever, your car would lock you out
and refuse to let you in until you simultaneously lifted the door
handle, turned the key and grabbed hold of the radio antenna.
9. Every time a new car was introduced car buyers would have to learn
how to drive all over again because none of the controls would operate
in the same manner as the old car.
10. You'd have to press the "Start" button to turn the engine off.
_____
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 08:16:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
Uh, Oh! That one is next on my project list!
Brian
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 08:20:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
Oooops. That one is coming up soon on the project list. I made new wood
seat bracket wedges, but have not installed them yet.
> - Installing the emergency brake cable with the drive shaft installed
I'm holding my breath that what is there will last a LONG time.
> - Installing the fender spears...After the fenders are installed, and the
> heater hose and heater fan are installed!
Yep. Did that already. The spear was from the wrong side and on
BACKWARDS! Had to remove the duct and heater motor to install correctly.
My how we learn the hard way!
Brian
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 08:27:47 -0800
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
To use precise jargon, these folks should correctly be called
"descendants of pre-Columbian asian immigrants"
But will the PC crowd ever be so precise? No way! It does not suit
their agenda of guilt splattering.
Brian N.
(a NATIVE AMERICAN, but a descendant of POST-columbian european immigrants).
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 10:30:35 -0600
Subject: modified Healey
http://www.autosalon-singen.de/Katalogfahrzeug_RecordView_DetailAll.cfm?fahr
zeugID=08962_0023_06_02&languageID=GB
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 12:30:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Blankets
Thanks , Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Lou G <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 12:49 AM
Subject: Healey Blankets
> This week, I will be getting some of the blankets that we had for the
holidays 4 years ago.
>
> The 4' x 5' Healey blanket was commissioned to help
> commemorate our Healeys.
>
> It is a cream color with a red and black checkered border and red, black
> and cream fringes; it has the Healey wings 3' wide at the top; then it
> has a front view of a red bugeye, a front corner view of a black 100,
> and a side view of a red over black 3000 (or 100/6) (just like Putzke's
> car). All the images are woven into the 100% cotton blanket--very nice.
>
>
> I can provide a picture of the blanket.
>
> Selling them for $50. + $5. priority mail postage
>
> Lou Galper
> San Diego AH club
> '55 100
> '59 Bugeye
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 10:14:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: stainless caliper piston note
.......As a general rule, simply rebuilding the front
calipers with the rebuild kit should be sufficient...
but if they are frozen you'll probably have to replace
the caliper's brake pucks (be sure to get stainless
steel ones).........
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From "m l" <h3000bn7 at hotmail.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:14:21 -0800
Subject: shipping a healey across the USA
Should I ship the car in a covered trailer? How long does it take? Do I
need extra insurance? How much does this cost?
Any advice is welcome.
Thank you
Mark
Venice, CA
60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are
always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free!
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 14:35:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
Jim,
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7, big feet, long arms.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
> > - Installing the fender spears...After the fenders are installed, and
the
> > heater hose and heater fan are installed!
From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 14:41:13 EST
Subject: Re: shipping a healey across the USA
or::
Intercity Lines inc. at : <A
HREF="www.intercitylines.com/">www.intercitylines.com/</A>
Either of them will be able to answer your specific questions about rates,
insurance, time , etc.
I used Passport to ship a Healey from Chicago to Baltimore in 2000 and they
did a thorough , professional job -= top notch in every respect. I have no
financial interest etc - just a satisfied customer.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 14:48:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Body work
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark and kathy LaPierre
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 9:52 AM
To: Amy Leslie; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Body work
Glad to hear of your choice in projects. What series of Healey did you
decide on? Must not have been home grown in Arizona with that kind of
rust
trouble.
I'm sure you will get a lot of feed back on your question. Let me
throw in
a few basics. Your problem sounds pretty common for these cars .
Lower 2
feet of car needs a lot of attention as well as the shroud flange
corrosion
problem.
Measure, measure and then measure again. Before cutting, write down all
the
original measurments of floor pan, rocker panels, outriggers etc. Its
very
important to replace metal where metal came from. And while your at it
you
may want to add a couple of extra frame pieces under the floors for
extra
rigidity. Also theres a great mod to cure Scuttle Shake. You can find
a
lot of these mods and Do's and Don'ts in the Archives at the bottom of
this
email.
Highly recomend bracing across the door openings before cutting and Do
One
Side at a time. And once you have cut out frame and body metal, Do Not
Move
the Chassis until you have welded in new metal to keep the original
geometry
of the car correct. If things get out of square your in a heap of
trouble.
A lot of common sense here but still important when it comes to these
cars.
My 2 cents for what its worth, Mark
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 12:35:35 -0800
Subject: Re: shipping a healey across the USA
I shipped my '54 BN1 from Washington, MO - to San Diego, California via
Passport Transport, in an enclosed trailer. They had a good reputation from
what I gathered, and the delivery went just as promised. The driver was a pro
at his job. It was a satisfactory experience. Not sure about the number of
miles. Cost: $1,195.00. Their phone number is (800) 878-5777.
David C
----- Original Message -----
From: m l
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 11:14 AM
Subject: shipping a healey across the USA
Dear list,
I may be having my Healey shipped from Los Angeles, California to Maryland.
Does anyone have some recommendations and experiences with these services?
Should I ship the car in a covered trailer? How long does it take? Do I
need extra insurance? How much does this cost?
Any advice is welcome.
Thank you
Mark
Venice, CA
60 BN7
From "GuyMark Studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 15:38:41 -0500
Subject: non Healey question
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 15:13:53 -0600
Subject: Re: shipping a healey across the USA
WWW.SOUTHERLANDTRANSCAR.COM
To ship a Triumph TR6 from Indiana to Washington, D.C. suburbs.
I shopped purely on price, and it was only $395. It turned out to be a
covered, enclosed trailer. The truck driver was great ... Called on his
cell to advise his progress, delivered the thing in the middle of a
nasty snowstorm.
I'm pretty sure this outfit is just a broker that hooks up cargo with
independent shippers, so I have no idea whether my good experience would
be repeated. But I don't know whether other shippers do the same thing.
My entire dealings with southerland were via the Web ... I never talked
to a human being at their end. Amazing.
-Graham
P.S. No financial interest, etc. Following is a quote I just got from
them - they have different levels of service.
Your Southerland Auto Moving Quote
Please choose the Level of Service that best meets your needs.
The following quotes are for a: 1963 Austin Healey 3000 (
Running/drivable ) transported from California Southern to Maryland
Discount-Next space available
OPEN CARRIER, fully insured, door to door service, AK & HI TO PORT. Use
this service to save money NOT time. Discount rate may not be available
in some states.$300 DEPOSIT (minimum).
$770.00 (Click Here to Place Your Order)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
PriorityExpress (1stClass)
BEST EXPRESS SERVICE ANYWHERE!!!This is the most effective, fastest
service level. Minimum deposit with order is $300. Pay in full get a
rebate after delivery. This is the most popular level of service. An
option to use if time ever becomes an issue.
$970.00 (Click Here to Place Your Order)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Enclosed First Class (VIP CLASS)
Fully enclosed trucks, fast, safe, and expert. PREFERRED TRANSPORT FOR
COLLECTORS AND FINE AUTOMOBILES. Pay in full with the order get a rebate
after delivery. Minimum deposit with order is $300. BEWARE OF NEW
BROKERS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA...THEY'LL DISAPPOINT YOU.
$1,270.00 (Click Here to Place Your Order)
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 13:21:50 -0800
Subject: Re: stainless caliper piston note
You are right, of course, although a properly made and finished stainless
steel piston is still the best option. The last thing you want are flakes of
disintegrating chrome in your calipers. You mention the poor quality of the
stainless pistons for your Jaguar, which is precisely why I am having
pistons for my Jag made in a local machine shop - great quality and they
cost less...
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 10:14 AM
Subject: stainless caliper piston note
> Friendly comment:
> Just because a piston is stainless doesn't make it
> necessarily good to use.
> Pistons are lathe turned and sometimes end up with a
> surface finish much rougher than polished chrome. The
> rough finish contacting rubber caliper seals is not
> desirable. Not sure about AH replacement piston
> quality but I purchased Jaguar stainless caliper
> pistons (and rebuildable ball joints) where the
> surface finish was terrible.
> Regards,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> '82 XJ6
>
>
>
> .......As a general rule, simply rebuilding the front
> calipers with the rebuild kit should be sufficient...
> but if they are frozen you'll probably have to replace
> the caliper's brake pucks (be sure to get stainless
> steel ones).........
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 13:38:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
Maybe putting off left side duct installation until later this month
when I rebuild the carbs it would make sense. I am thinking there will
be more access with the carbs out of the way. Am I guessing right?
Brian
> have fun!
>
> Cheers
> tom
>
>> > Just try installing new air ducts from the front of the engine back to
>
> the
>
>> > drivers-side firewall after the fenders are on!
>
>>
>>
>> Uh, Oh! That one is next on my project list!
>>
>> Brian
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 18:20:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brian N
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 11:20 AM
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
> - Installing the fender spears...After the fenders are installed, and the
> heater hose and heater fan are installed!
Yep. Did that already. The spear was from the wrong side and on
BACKWARDS! Had to remove the duct and heater motor to install correctly.
My how we learn the hard way!
Brian
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 19:19:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Body work
I am the creator of the aritcle. It also has pix.
Go to
http://j2k.naver.com/j2k_frame.php/korean/users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.ht
ml
Is it the mod? Is it the complete susp rebuild? Is it the bolt on minilite
repros? Who knows. But I have no shake on my BN7 at any speed up to 80. A
sheer joy to drive!
Any Qs let me know.
Keith Pennell
BN7 reinforced transmission box and main rails
> Mark,
> Mention of "a great mod to cure scuttle shake" in your third paragraph
> below sent me scurrying to the archives. Found some entries for wheel
> balancing etc. but nothing in the context of bodywork. If such there
> be, it would be worth a great deal more than 2 cents to me and surely
> many other Healey owners whose scuttle shaketh them to distraction.
> Wouldst thou please elaborate?
> Adrian
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
BN7 interior & exterior.jpg]
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 20:08:58 -0500
Subject: Michael Oritt
Michael Oritt passed through eastern North Carolina on his boat this evening
on his annual migration from Maryland to Florida for the winter. My wife and
I had a very pleasant dinner with him and his crew, Tom and Doug. Michael and
I Healeyed together in '02 from Maryland to Lake Tahoe for Open Roads. We
discussed another possible Healey trip next Spring/Summer along the Missouri
River in conjunction with the Lewis & Clark festivities and/or the trip to
Conclave in San Antonio. He requested that I pass along his greetings to the
list, so here they are.....
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 20:29:24 EST
Subject: Re: shipping a healey across the USA
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 18:35:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Body work
This link works better for me.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.html
Dave Russell
BN2
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Adrian,
>
> I am the creator of the aritcle. It also has pix.
>
> Go to
> http://j2k.naver.com/j2k_frame.php/korean/users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.ht
> ml
>
> Is it the mod? Is it the complete susp rebuild? Is it the bolt on minilite
> repros? Who knows. But I have no shake on my BN7 at any speed up to 80. A
> sheer joy to drive!
>
> Any Qs let me know.
>
> Keith Pennell
> BN7 reinforced transmission box and main rails
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 21:56:49 EST
Subject: Re: How PC are you?
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 08:12:01 -0600
Subject: Pewter Healey - gift idea
It is a very nice, heavy piece with good detail - IMHO a must-have for
any Big Healey owner (who might want to drop a pre-Xmas hint to the
appropriate person). And a relative deal at about $50, including
shipping (especialy on a per-pound basis).
Plus, it would be good to hit a burglar with, if necessary.
Link is http://www.ntahc.org/
-Graham
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 09:48:39 -0700
Subject: New Toys for my BJ8 - and Progress
Well progressing here with my BJ8.. It has been a while since I did a status
update soooo......
I have basically now a complete car, minus interior, road wheels, shocks,
interior and top....
Installed the new roll-up windows last weekend. Couldn't bear to put in the
old glass....In the past I have just used the glazing rubber (soap and water
installation) with success and this time decided to try something new. I
used glazing rubber still but this time used black silicone sealer as the
"lubricant" to be able to slide the glass, glazing rubber all into the
track. I also this time had my tracks (excluding the vent window structure)
poweder coated. I spent the proper time shimming the rear guide during
installation and now have beautifully smooth functional roll-up windows with
no rock back and forth.... ahhhh
My toyota transmission should be here in a week. Late model with the proper
shift tower.... only 65k miles on it... (a decision after I got the engine
and trans back in) .. My alternator is installed... (as well as the
junction block - thanks Tom - for the wiring change) ....Yesterdy I received
my sway bar, BJ8 rear lowering kit, and rear tube shock conversion kit from
Cape International.... they will go on over christmas... my front shocks
should be back from being uprated / rebuilt any day....
I still have some further fabrication on my monza exhaust install... it all
is in perfectly but I want to extend it further out the back... 3 inches to
just clear the bumper.... so I have to rip it out again.... I am anxious to
see how this all works as I had my headers and down pipes powder coated with
a heat shielding material made specifically for the purpose....
The new dash is in and wiring almost complete .. trunk fully finished....
will power things up in several weeks to test ..... My new Heritage
interior still sits... I am assuming it will be several months before I
even want to install ...
Well... all for now... and yes this is going to excess... but it is just a
project.. and fun.. the only regret I have is I bought chrome wire wheels.
I now would have preferred just painted ones... oh well... I am off to
visit our canadia friends friday for a week of heliskiing in norther BC...
Cheers.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 09:18:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Did I go to He##? Not until you've done this...
We shall see.
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
http://www.beachcitygas.com/bugeye1.jpg
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 09:28:10 -0800
Subject: I gave up this for a Healey...
http://www.beachcitygas.com/capri4sale/capriphotos.htm
The most we could account for in the US was about 13. And some of those
were not running.
Brian N.
From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 19:15:28 EST
Subject: Re: I gave up this for a Healey...
Carroll
BN1 #484
From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 19:42:39 -0500
Subject: Wheel Balance
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 12:44:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Michael Oritt
I've got the Healey, now how do I get the boat and the extra time to play?
Waiting impatiently, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 8:08 PM
Subject: Michael Oritt
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> Michael Oritt passed through eastern North Carolina on his boat this
evening
> on his annual migration from Maryland to Florida for the winter. My wife
and
> I had a very pleasant dinner with him and his crew, Tom and Doug. Michael
and
> I Healeyed together in '02 from Maryland to Lake Tahoe for Open Roads. We
> discussed another possible Healey trip next Spring/Summer along the
Missouri
> River in conjunction with the Lewis & Clark festivities and/or the trip to
> Conclave in San Antonio. He requested that I pass along his greetings to
the
> list, so here they are.....
>
> Happy Healeying!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:10:27 -0500
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
I realize that the cure is drastic and I'm not going to take a
good car apart just for that. But I've filed all the responses and
taken particular note of the excellent Pennell/Bolton article & photos.
If ever my engine or gearbox needs to come out the mod will be
performed.
I am very grateful to you and all the other responders who have
been
kind enough to share their expertise.
Adrian Boelen
Montreal, 1966 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 10:42 PM
To: Adrian Boelen
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake
If your car is still a driver I would certainly go through the other
easier options first. The one that comes to my mind and that several of
the
listers swear by is the complete wheel and tire balancing as well as
having
the brake drums balanced. Hendrix wire wheel does this on a routine
basis.
They actually grind off metal on your old drums to make them run true
with
no wobble.
Enjoy your daily driver, Mark
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 20:32:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
Since your scuttle shake issue is more associated with
rough patches in the road, I would suggest another fix
would be more appropriate, and something you can do
today without tearing your car apart.
You should consider putting on Puzke's Bilstein shock
kit on the front of your car.
The main problem of rough patch scuttle shake are the
Armstrong shocks themselves. To put it mildly, these
hydraulic shocks are a totally antique technology, and
do not handle rough patches at all (under high speed
shock loads, hydraulic fluid will have no give and can
only pass through the shock valve at a standard
rate)... only a telescoping gas shock or strut will
have the appropriate "give" under shock loading in
rough patches.
You can get his kit here:
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
I haven't put one on my BJ8, but I do have to say I
have only ever heard raving positive responses about
this kit.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Mark,
> My shake does not occur as a regular phenomenon at
> a predictable
> speed such as one would expect with a balance issue.
> My wheels (72
> spoke) are new trued and balanced. The hubs are
> new. Shocks are fine. I
> did not know the drums could also be balanced and I
> may explore this.
>
> The problem is that a rough patch of road will
> induce a shake
> shimmy and dance which takes a while to dampen out
> with the body flexing
> all over the place in the meantime. It is some of
> that flex which I
> would hope to reduce by beefing up the structure
> with the suggested
> angle iron welding around the gearbox opening.
>
> Our northern roads take quite a beating with
> wintertime frost
> heaves and rough patches are common. They don't
> have the billiard top
> surfaces
> of the Warwickshire (or California?) roads for which
> the car was
> designed.
>
> I realize that the cure is drastic and I'm not
> going to take a
> good car apart just for that. But I've filed all
> the responses and
> taken particular note of the excellent
> Pennell/Bolton article & photos.
> If ever my engine or gearbox needs to come out the
> mod will be
> performed.
>
> I am very grateful to you and all the other
> responders who have
> been
> kind enough to share their expertise.
>
> Adrian Boelen
> Montreal, 1966 BJ8
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:04:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
> My shake does not occur as a regular phenomenon at
> a predictable
> speed
> The problem is that a rough patch of road will
> induce a shake
> shimmy and dance which takes a while to dampen out
> with the body flexing
>
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From "Ron Davies" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:06:27 -0800
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
Adrien -
Since your scuttle shake issue is more associated with
rough patches in the road, I would suggest another fix
would be more appropriate, and something you can do
today without tearing your car apart.
You should consider putting on Puzke's Bilstein shock
kit on the front of your car.
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 00:25:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Body work
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
To: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>; "'Mark and kathy LaPierre'"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; "'Amy Leslie'" <kansl@net1plus.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Body work
> Adrian,
>
> I am the creator of the aritcle. It also has pix.
>
> Go to
>
http://j2k.naver.com/j2k_frame.php/korean/users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.ht
> ml
>
> Is it the mod? Is it the complete susp rebuild? Is it the bolt on
minilite
> repros? Who knows. But I have no shake on my BN7 at any speed up to 80.
A
> sheer joy to drive!
>
> Any Qs let me know.
>
> Keith Pennell
> BN7 reinforced transmission box and main rails
>
>
> > Mark,
> > Mention of "a great mod to cure scuttle shake" in your third paragraph
> > below sent me scurrying to the archives. Found some entries for wheel
> > balancing etc. but nothing in the context of bodywork. If such there
> > be, it would be worth a great deal more than 2 cents to me and surely
> > many other Healey owners whose scuttle shaketh them to distraction.
> > Wouldst thou please elaborate?
> > Adrian
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of BN7 interior & exterior.jpg]
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 03:38:51 EST
Subject: Re: I gave up this for a Healey...
Gary Fuqua
Branson, MO
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 07:01:22 -0500
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
> [Original Message]
> From: Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca>
> To: Mark and kathy LaPierre <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/3/03 10:12:03 PM
> Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
>
> Mark,
> My shake does not occur as a regular phenomenon at a predictable
> speed such as one would expect with a balance issue. My wheels (72
> spoke) are new trued and balanced. The hubs are new. Shocks are fine. I
> did not know the drums could also be balanced and I may explore this.
>
> The problem is that a rough patch of road will induce a shake
> shimmy and dance which takes a while to dampen out with the body flexing
> all over the place in the meantime. It is some of that flex which I
> would hope to reduce by beefing up the structure with the suggested
> angle iron welding around the gearbox opening.
>
> Our northern roads take quite a beating with wintertime frost
> heaves and rough patches are common. They don't have the billiard top
> surfaces
> of the Warwickshire (or California?) roads for which the car was
> designed.
>
> I realize that the cure is drastic and I'm not going to take a
> good car apart just for that. But I've filed all the responses and
> taken particular note of the excellent Pennell/Bolton article & photos.
> If ever my engine or gearbox needs to come out the mod will be
> performed.
>
> I am very grateful to you and all the other responders who have
> been
> kind enough to share their expertise.
>
> Adrian Boelen
> Montreal, 1966 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark and kathy LaPierre [mailto:mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 10:42 PM
> To: Adrian Boelen
> Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake
>
> If your car is still a driver I would certainly go through the other
> easier options first. The one that comes to my mind and that several of
> the
> listers swear by is the complete wheel and tire balancing as well as
> having
> the brake drums balanced. Hendrix wire wheel does this on a routine
> basis.
> They actually grind off metal on your old drums to make them run true
> with
> no wobble.
>
> Enjoy your daily driver, Mark
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 07:58:47 EST
Subject: Cross-country shipping
<< Dear list,
I may be having my Healey shipped from Los Angeles, California to Maryland.
Does anyone have some recommendations and experiences with these services?
Should I ship the car in a covered trailer? How long does it take? Do I
need extra insurance? How much does this cost? >>
I'm writing an article on transport right now. Called Intercity Transport
(www.intercitylines.com) and Passport Transport (www.passporttransport.com)
yesterday--both advertisers in our magazine.
To pick up a car in Maryland, transport it in an enclosed van, by a very
experienced company, and deliver it in California -- door to door, including
full
insurance coverage from pick-up to delivery, would cost about $1750.
Our publisher flew cross-country and drove a car back from Oakland to Ormond
Beach, Fla., and his total out-of-pocket expenses were $1200 and seven days of
his time.
There are some small independent mom-and-pop operations that do onesy-twosy
shipments for a little less than the majors, but be sure you get references and
check them out--there have been some recent scams where a deposit was
requested and then the contact disappeared.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 08:33:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Cross-country shipping
http://www.reliable-carriers.com/
Bob Denton
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 12/4/03 4:02:50 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
>writes:
>
><< Dear list,
>I may be having my Healey shipped from Los Angeles, California to Maryland.
>Does anyone have some recommendations and experiences with these services?
>
>Should I ship the car in a covered trailer? How long does it take? Do I
>need extra insurance? How much does this cost? >>
>
>I'm writing an article on transport right now. Called Intercity Transport
>(www.intercitylines.com) and Passport Transport (www.passporttransport.com)
>yesterday--both advertisers in our magazine.
>To pick up a car in Maryland, transport it in an enclosed van, by a very
>experienced company, and deliver it in California -- door to door, including
>full
>insurance coverage from pick-up to delivery, would cost about $1750.
>Our publisher flew cross-country and drove a car back from Oakland to Ormond
>Beach, Fla., and his total out-of-pocket expenses were $1200 and seven days of
>his time.
>There are some small independent mom-and-pop operations that do onesy-twosy
>shipments for a little less than the majors, but be sure you get references
>and
>check them out--there have been some recent scams where a deposit was
>requested and then the contact disappeared.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>Editor, Classic Motorsports Magazine
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 09:31:18 EST
Subject: Re: Cross-country shipping
<< Sorry, Gary. I know they are advertisers, but they are expensive. Try
Reliable Carriers. They have one of the largest fleets of big enclosed
trucks around. They all have elevator tailgates too. I have never paid
more than $1100 from LA to Detroit, door-to-door. They are usually
$300-500 cheaper than Passport. on a cross country.
http://www.reliable-carriers.com/ >>
Thanks for the note - I'll check Reliable -- I've used them myself in the
past. Worth noting, however, that Detroit is a bit closer to LA than the east
coast and prices are calculated on miles - Your mileage may vary, but so will
the
price.
Cheers
Gary
From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 09:14:37 -0800
Subject: SKUTTLE Shake / Shock Conversion
Further on Udo Putzke's Bilstein shock conversion.
With stock shocks on my stock 62BT7, while at speed on a rough
(sweeping-turn) road, wheels/tires, rock-n-roll, hop, skip, jump,
shake the car and lose stearing/traction.
With Udo's shock conversion kit on my 60BN7 (Nasty Boy 302 Ford),
same road, NONE OF THE ABOVE, and at faster tilt.
Adrian, no more "shake, shimmy and dance" while out romancing your
Healey over those "northern..... wintertime frost heaves and rough patches".
Ron Davies of Redlands Ca. same results with his BN1 (Nasty Boy 5.0)
Very straight forward and simple conversion, took me approx 2.5 hrs.
You can also sell the rear shocks to reduce cost.
Happy Camper
Kirk Kvam
60BN7 #405
San Bernardino, CA. (just singed by the fires).
Wayyyy toooo much fun at Tahoe Open Roads 2002.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>; "'Mark and kathy LaPierre'"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 8:32 PM
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
> Adrien -
>
> Since your scuttle shake issue is more associated with
> rough patches in the road, I would suggest another fix
> would be more appropriate, and something you can do
> today without tearing your car apart.
>
> You should consider putting on Puzke's Bilstein shock
> kit on the front of your car.
>
> The main problem of rough patch scuttle shake are the
> Armstrong shocks themselves. To put it mildly, these
> hydraulic shocks are a totally antique technology, and
> do not handle rough patches at all (under high speed
> shock loads, hydraulic fluid will have no give and can
> only pass through the shock valve at a standard
> rate)... only a telescoping gas shock or strut will
> have the appropriate "give" under shock loading in
> rough patches.
>
> You can get his kit here:
>
> http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
>
> I haven't put one on my BJ8, but I do have to say I
> have only ever heard raving positive responses about
> this kit.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>
> --- Adrian Boelen <boelena@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Mark,
> > My shake does not occur as a regular phenomenon at
> > a predictable
> > speed such as one would expect with a balance issue.
> > My wheels (72
> > spoke) are new trued and balanced. The hubs are
> > new. Shocks are fine. I
> > did not know the drums could also be balanced and I
> > may explore this.
> >
> > The problem is that a rough patch of road will
> > induce a shake
> > shimmy and dance which takes a while to dampen out
> > with the body flexing
> > all over the place in the meantime. It is some of
> > that flex which I
> > would hope to reduce by beefing up the structure
> > with the suggested
> > angle iron welding around the gearbox opening.
> >
> > Our northern roads take quite a beating with
> > wintertime frost
> > heaves and rough patches are common. They don't
> > have the billiard top
> > surfaces
> > of the Warwickshire (or California?) roads for which
> > the car was
> > designed.
> >
> > I realize that the cure is drastic and I'm not
> > going to take a
> > good car apart just for that. But I've filed all
> > the responses and
> > taken particular note of the excellent
> > Pennell/Bolton article & photos.
> > If ever my engine or gearbox needs to come out the
> > mod will be
> > performed.
> >
> > I am very grateful to you and all the other
> > responders who have
> > been
> > kind enough to share their expertise.
> >
> > Adrian Boelen
> > Montreal, 1966 BJ8
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 11:23:06 -0500
Subject: Healey off to Texas!
Charlie and i met Jerry to give him a good Pittsburgh send-off as he left
with a newly purchased black over red BJ7 for Texas. He was heading due
south as the weather forecast has moderate snow moving in tonight and
tomorrow. As we know, there is much salt used here when snow starts, so
his timing was perfect.
We enjoyed meeting and hashing Healey talk over breakfast and while he was
inspecting the car. Kinda envied his trip! Charlie and I had our Healeys
out, so there was a good photo op with the 3 cars. Were it not for this
list, we wouldn't have met Jerry and shared in his adventure.
Bon Voyage Jerry. Let your adventure begin and end safely!!
Tom
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 13:48:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Body work
Don't know what happened there.
Try http://users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.html
Keith Pennell
> Great post, wish I had read it 2 yrs ago. But will employ it on my next
> project, '60 BT7. The link initially directs me to some foriegn language
> site. Is this correct?
>
> Tim Davis BN7
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 11:07:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Spark Plug Wires
---------------------------------
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 17:18:20 -0500
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
Adrian Boelen
Montreal, 1966 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 11:33 PM
To: Adrian Boelen; 'Mark and kathy LaPierre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
Adrien -
Since your scuttle shake issue is more associated with
rough patches in the road, I would suggest another fix
would be more appropriate, and something you can do
today without tearing your car apart.
You should consider putting on Puzke's Bilstein shock
kit on the front of your car.
The main problem of rough patch scuttle shake are the
Armstrong shocks themselves. To put it mildly, these
hydraulic shocks are a totally antique technology, and
do not handle rough patches at all (under high speed
shock loads, hydraulic fluid will have no give and can
only pass through the shock valve at a standard
rate)... only a telescoping gas shock or strut will
have the appropriate "give" under shock loading in
rough patches.
You can get his kit here:
http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
I haven't put one on my BJ8, but I do have to say I
have only ever heard raving positive responses about
this kit.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "Bill Ruof" <1953xk at comcast.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 18:07:35 -0500
Subject: Healey 100 Toy
It's a cool tin toy and it will allow you to tell the folks at work that you
got another Healey for Christmas.
Bill
Healey - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2207241735
Jaguar - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2207241794
Corvette Coasters -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3257396126
57 Chevy can - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3257396089
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 18:27:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires
There are special boots for both ends. Each end screws into the center of
the Bumblebee style wire. I believe I got my spark plug ends from Just
Brits. Since I have a Mallory dual-point distributor on my engine, I used a
different style on that end.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>
To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 2:07 PM
Subject: Spark Plug Wires
> I recently ordered a length of the Lucas Bumble Bee yellow/black ignition
wire for my BJ8 and I can see that at the distributor end there are screws
holding the wires but how are they held at the boot (spark plug) end? My car
has Lucas hard plastic boots with a 90degree bend.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> '65 bj8
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 20:01:26 -0500
Subject: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
There are two major scenarios that make scuttle shake apparent in the Healey.
One scenario is an imbalance anywhere where something big rotates. The other
scenario is when the car is excited by road bumps. But there's one point here
that must be pointed out. Neither is the CAUSE! Balancing things and adding
gas shocks will reduce the frequency with which it occurs. It does not fix it.
The cause is a structure that is not properly reinforced, and therefore is
prone to resonate. Resonance is a natural tendency for anything to vibrate at
a certain frequency. Resonance can and will be "excited" by any stimulus.
There are many things that determine the frequency and the extent (amplitude)
of this resonance. To eliminate it requires altering the natural resonant
frequency of the structure, and also damping out that resonance. In the Healey
we need to raise the frequency to a point where the stimuli (bumps and
imbalances) are not anywhere near that frequency. You have to stiffen the
structure!! The problem is partly in the original design, partly in poor
construction at the factory, and partly in some cases due to rust and metal
fatigue. BTW, If your front outriggers are bad, you will have it big time! If
you have rust anywhere in the floors or bulkhead area, you will have it big
time!
Installing Bilsteins will reduce the stimulus from bumps. Balancing things
will reduce the stimulus. But neither will stop the cause, and neither will
"fix" the problem. Add the reinforcements as described in the article, and
that will fix the problem. There is NO other solution.
This is my winter project for my BJ8. I can't take another year of that damn
shake.
Hope that helps.
Dave
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 20:27:55 EST
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 17:36:28 -0800
Subject: Brake lines
kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Winterize your home with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 21:01:26 -0500
Subject: BN4 brake conversion.
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 18:49:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake lines
If you can't find anything closer, try these guys for cupro-nickel lines:
http://www.automec.co.uk/
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:36 PM
Subject: Brake lines
> Does anyone know of a supplier for individual brake lines? I looking for
> the two rear lines for my BT-7. I accidently kinked one line and stripped
> the threads on the other (due to bad thread in the cylinder).
>
> kenny
>
> 61 BT-7
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 19:07:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires
The end of the Lucas boot that goes over the wire has
a screw thread on it - simply twist the boot
counterclockwise and it will come right off. When
screwing it on the new wire, be sure that it is firmly
screwed in place.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Jorge Garcia <fortee9er@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I recently ordered a length of the Lucas Bumble Bee
> yellow/black ignition wire for my BJ8 and I can see
> that at the distributor end there are screws holding
> the wires but how are they held at the boot (spark
> plug) end? My car has Lucas hard plastic boots with
> a 90degree bend.
> Thanks
> Jorge
> '65 bj8
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 19:30:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Body work
> Tim,
>
> Don't know what happened there.
>
> Try http://users.arczip.com/zntech/scuttle.html
>
> Keith Pennell
>
I had exactly that Bill Bolton solution done by Eric Grundon @ Absolutely
British in Ontario, CA. Running stock shocks, my car is smooth as glass at any
speed on any kind of road. However, everything in the suspension including the
steering box has been rebuilt. I'm also running 6" 72's with Dunlop 215/70's
which should aggravate the problem, but doesn't. I would recommend it, as it's
easy to do and doesn't show.
Many of you will know Mal Doherty and his awesome Healey. He has ridden in my
car at speed and remarked it was smoother than his. You bet I'm proud to hear
that from him! But his is assuredly a little looser from all the slaloms he
continues to win :-)
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663
PS: Blue One Hundred and I have had much dialog off-list about Californians.
We are friends.
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 23:06:50 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Keith Pennell
> As to Scuttle shake and the Bilsteins, let me give my two cents. Three
years
> ago I completely rebuilt my BJ8 front suspension and steering. I added the
> Bilsteins to both the front and rear. The gas shocks made a great
improvement
> to the behavior of my Healey...wonderful. Much more controlled over
different
> kinds of bumps and road surfaces. The difference was huge. I wrote about
it to
> you guys three years ago. But...I still have scuttle shake.
>
> There are two major scenarios that make scuttle shake apparent in the
Healey.
> One scenario is an imbalance anywhere where something big rotates. The
other
> scenario is when the car is excited by road bumps. But there's one point
here
> that must be pointed out. Neither is the CAUSE! Balancing things and
adding
> gas shocks will reduce the frequency with which it occurs. It does not fix
it.
> The cause is a structure that is not properly reinforced, and therefore is
> prone to resonate. Resonance is a natural tendency for anything to vibrate
at
> a certain frequency. Resonance can and will be "excited" by any stimulus.
> There are many things that determine the frequency and the extent
(amplitude)
> of this resonance. To eliminate it requires altering the natural resonant
> frequency of the structure, and also damping out that resonance. In the
Healey
> we need to raise the frequency to a point where the stimuli (bumps and
> imbalances) are not anywhere near that frequency. You have to stiffen the
> structure!! The problem is partly in the original design, partly in poor
> construction at the factory, and partly in some cases due to rust and
metal
> fatigue. BTW, If your front outriggers are bad, you will have it big
time! If
> you have rust anywhere in the floors or bulkhead area, you will have it
big
> time!
>
> Installing Bilsteins will reduce the stimulus from bumps. Balancing things
> will reduce the stimulus. But neither will stop the cause, and neither
will
> "fix" the problem. Add the reinforcements as described in the article, and
> that will fix the problem. There is NO other solution.
>
> This is my winter project for my BJ8. I can't take another year of that
damn
> shake.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Dave
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 21:32:43 -0700
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
My opinion may cause some friction/disagreement. I have no intention of
getting into an argument over this. My opinion only.
Stock lever arm shocks in new or expertly rebuilt condition are as good
or better than add on tube type shocks. I don't think that I have ever
seen a direct comparison between new lever shocks & new tube shocks. It
seems to be the case that worn lever shocks are compared to new tube
shocks & found to be a remarkable improvement. "I replaced my old shocks
with new tube shocks". Really not surprising - but it does nothing to
prove that tube shocks are better.
Adding tube shocks to a chassis that was not designed for them is
questionable. The mounting points are subject to large impact loads &
will often break or tear out after a time unless the chassis is
substantially reinforced. A few tube shock kits may go to this extra
trouble but they are pretty expensive for a questionable gain in
performance over good lever shocks.
As far as scuttle shake & reinforcing go, a properly restored big Healey
does not need any changes for less than heavy rally use. The original
chassis is remarkably stiff & not prone to flexing. I have heard many
complaints of doors binding when the car is jacked up. On a structurally
sound chassis any corner can be jacked high in the air & no sign of
flexing, such as door, boot, or bonnet gaps changing, can be detected.
The problem comes when a less than complete chassis restoration is done.
I suspect that in many cases of scuttle shake the chassis/body is weak
from un-corrected or incompletely corrected rust damage or other
structural damage.
I guess that if you have such a car, the reinforcing may be needed but
it does not result from original design problems. How many owners know,
or even want to know, about hidden structural rust damage?
YMMV
Dave Russell
BN2
David Masucci wrote:
> As to Scuttle shake and the Bilsteins, let me give my two cents. Three years
> ago I completely rebuilt my BJ8 front suspension and steering. I added the
> Bilsteins to both the front and rear. The gas shocks made a great improvement
> to the behavior of my Healey...wonderful. Much more controlled over different
> kinds of bumps and road surfaces. The difference was huge.
snip
You have to stiffen the
> structure!! The problem is partly in the original design, partly in poor
> construction at the factory, and partly in some cases due to rust and metal
> fatigue. BTW, If your front outriggers are bad, you will have it big time! If
> you have rust anywhere in the floors or bulkhead area, you will have it big
> time!
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 00:02:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Dave
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> Does anyone know of a supplier for individual brake lines? I looking
> for the two rear lines for my BT-7. I accidently kinked one line and
> stripped the threads on the other (due to bad thread in the cylinder).
>
> kenny
>
> 61 BT-7
>
> _
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 00:24:06 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
This is exactly what happened to one of the Healeys that went on the
European Odyssey in 2001. Tube shock broke off at the mount.
tom
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 19:52:09 +1000
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
There is another answer of course - weld on a roof! More seriously, my car
also has a Koni telescopic conversion all round - absolutely no scuttle
shake! Luckily it had already been done before I bought the car.
Regards
Peter Linn
Brisbane
Ward Special coupe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian Boelen" <boelena@sympatico.ca>
To: "'Blue One Hundred'" <international_investor@yahoo.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 8:18 AM
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
> There is a large consensus among responders suggesting the
> Bilsteins. All the usual front suspension and steering suspects have,
> for one reason or another, been scrutinized in the recent past. Repair
> replacement and adjustments were performed where needed.
> You point out that leaves the design itself of the 1930's style
> shocks. The Bilsteins certainly seem worth a try before surgery on the
> structure.
> Unfortunately the price is just a little beyond where I might
> dare drop hints about a Christmas present to "SHE who must be obeyed".
>
> Adrian Boelen
> Montreal, 1966 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 11:33 PM
> To: Adrian Boelen; 'Mark and kathy LaPierre'; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake was Bodywork
>
> Adrien -
>
> Since your scuttle shake issue is more associated with
> rough patches in the road, I would suggest another fix
> would be more appropriate, and something you can do
> today without tearing your car apart.
>
> You should consider putting on Puzke's Bilstein shock
> kit on the front of your car.
>
> The main problem of rough patch scuttle shake are the
> Armstrong shocks themselves. To put it mildly, these
> hydraulic shocks are a totally antique technology, and
> do not handle rough patches at all (under high speed
> shock loads, hydraulic fluid will have no give and can
> only pass through the shock valve at a standard
> rate)... only a telescoping gas shock or strut will
> have the appropriate "give" under shock loading in
> rough patches.
>
> You can get his kit here:
>
> http://home.att.net/~putzkes_fahrspass/
>
> I haven't put one on my BJ8, but I do have to say I
> have only ever heard raving positive responses about
> this kit.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
.
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 07:04:34 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
I do disagree with one statement. Dave states that a properly restored
Healey does not need any changes to the structure. For who?? That depends
on the driver and what he wants. Dave the original design was hardly
perfection....there's no such thing. Any design can use improvements. But
you know what...that the kind of discussion could go on for years, and I
don't wish to get into it either.
And finally as Dave said....this is opinion only.
Cheers all,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
> Hi folks,
>
> My opinion may cause some friction/disagreement. I have no intention of
> getting into an argument over this. My opinion only.
>
> Stock lever arm shocks in new or expertly rebuilt condition are as good
> or better than add on tube type shocks. I don't think that I have ever
> seen a direct comparison between new lever shocks & new tube shocks. It
> seems to be the case that worn lever shocks are compared to new tube
> shocks & found to be a remarkable improvement. "I replaced my old shocks
> with new tube shocks". Really not surprising - but it does nothing to
> prove that tube shocks are better.
>
> Adding tube shocks to a chassis that was not designed for them is
> questionable. The mounting points are subject to large impact loads &
> will often break or tear out after a time unless the chassis is
> substantially reinforced. A few tube shock kits may go to this extra
> trouble but they are pretty expensive for a questionable gain in
> performance over good lever shocks.
>
> As far as scuttle shake & reinforcing go, a properly restored big Healey
> does not need any changes for less than heavy rally use. The original
> chassis is remarkably stiff & not prone to flexing. I have heard many
> complaints of doors binding when the car is jacked up. On a structurally
> sound chassis any corner can be jacked high in the air & no sign of
> flexing, such as door, boot, or bonnet gaps changing, can be detected.
>
> The problem comes when a less than complete chassis restoration is done.
> I suspect that in many cases of scuttle shake the chassis/body is weak
> from un-corrected or incompletely corrected rust damage or other
> structural damage.
>
> I guess that if you have such a car, the reinforcing may be needed but
> it does not result from original design problems. How many owners know,
> or even want to know, about hidden structural rust damage?
>
> YMMV
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
>
>
> David Masucci wrote:
> > As to Scuttle shake and the Bilsteins, let me give my two cents. Three
years
> > ago I completely rebuilt my BJ8 front suspension and steering. I added
the
> > Bilsteins to both the front and rear. The gas shocks made a great
improvement
> > to the behavior of my Healey...wonderful. Much more controlled over
different
> > kinds of bumps and road surfaces. The difference was huge.
>
> snip
> You have to stiffen the
> > structure!! The problem is partly in the original design, partly in poor
> > construction at the factory, and partly in some cases due to rust and
metal
> > fatigue. BTW, If your front outriggers are bad, you will have it big
time! If
> > you have rust anywhere in the floors or bulkhead area, you will have it
big
> > time!
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 07:14:42 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Remember...opinion only!!
Dave
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 07:15:03 -0500
Subject: Jerry Wall
Tom
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 09:16:36 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
> Hi folks,
>
> My opinion may cause some friction/disagreement. I have no intention of
> getting into an argument over this. My opinion only.
>
> Stock lever arm shocks in new or expertly rebuilt condition are as good
> or better than add on tube type shocks. I don't think that I have ever
> seen a direct comparison between new lever shocks & new tube shocks. It
> seems to be the case that worn lever shocks are compared to new tube
> shocks & found to be a remarkable improvement. "I replaced my old shocks
> with new tube shocks". Really not surprising - but it does nothing to
> prove that tube shocks are better.
>
> Adding tube shocks to a chassis that was not designed for them is
> questionable. The mounting points are subject to large impact loads &
> will often break or tear out after a time unless the chassis is
> substantially reinforced. A few tube shock kits may go to this extra
> trouble but they are pretty expensive for a questionable gain in
> performance over good lever shocks.
>
> As far as scuttle shake & reinforcing go, a properly restored big Healey
> does not need any changes for less than heavy rally use. The original
> chassis is remarkably stiff & not prone to flexing. I have heard many
> complaints of doors binding when the car is jacked up. On a structurally
> sound chassis any corner can be jacked high in the air & no sign of
> flexing, such as door, boot, or bonnet gaps changing, can be detected.
>
> The problem comes when a less than complete chassis restoration is done.
> I suspect that in many cases of scuttle shake the chassis/body is weak
> from un-corrected or incompletely corrected rust damage or other
> structural damage.
>
> I guess that if you have such a car, the reinforcing may be needed but
> it does not result from original design problems. How many owners know,
> or even want to know, about hidden structural rust damage?
>
> YMMV
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
>
>
> David Masucci wrote:
> > As to Scuttle shake and the Bilsteins, let me give my two cents. Three
years
> > ago I completely rebuilt my BJ8 front suspension and steering. I added
the
> > Bilsteins to both the front and rear. The gas shocks made a great
improvement
> > to the behavior of my Healey...wonderful. Much more controlled over
different
> > kinds of bumps and road surfaces. The difference was huge.
>
> snip
> You have to stiffen the
> > structure!! The problem is partly in the original design, partly in poor
> > construction at the factory, and partly in some cases due to rust and
metal
> > fatigue. BTW, If your front outriggers are bad, you will have it big
time! If
> > you have rust anywhere in the floors or bulkhead area, you will have it
big
> > time!
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 06:22:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Spark plug Wires
---------------------------------
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 09:19:22 -0500
Subject: Re: How PC is your braking system?
But why pre-Columbian? That smells of a Euro-centric
attitude we're trying avoid. And how important is it to
know *when* the migration occurred. In Boston, the
descendents of Pilgrims who arrived on the Mayflower
are better than the descendents of those who arrived
on the steamers of the late 1800s? Typically it just
means they've owned their land longer, and therefore
have more money.
I like that "you're American or you're not" post. Works
for me.
Kent, a native U.S. citizen [1]
'56 100 BN2
[1] Since "American" tends to offend those from the other
Americas; you know, North Americans from Canada and
Mexico, South Americans, and if we split hairs, Central
Americans. :-)
From dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 11:21:41 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Dave
AH102 writes:
> I don't wish to take sides here, but here's another data point: I get no
> shimmy or skuttle shake in either my BN7 or BN6. They have stock lever
> shocks, and no frame or chassis reinforcement. BN7 has 14 year old 60
> spokers with new Michelin 175R15s; BN6 has spline drive Minilites with
> 195-65-15 Yokohamas..
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
> To: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 11:32 PM
> Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
>
>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> My opinion may cause some friction/disagreement. I have no intention of
>> getting into an argument over this. My opinion only.
>>
>> Stock lever arm shocks in new or expertly rebuilt condition are as good
>> or better than add on tube type shocks. I don't think that I have ever
>> seen a direct comparison between new lever shocks & new tube shocks. It
>> seems to be the case that worn lever shocks are compared to new tube
>> shocks & found to be a remarkable improvement. "I replaced my old shocks
>> with new tube shocks". Really not surprising - but it does nothing to
>> prove that tube shocks are better.
>>
>> Adding tube shocks to a chassis that was not designed for them is
>> questionable. The mounting points are subject to large impact loads &
>> will often break or tear out after a time unless the chassis is
>> substantially reinforced. A few tube shock kits may go to this extra
>> trouble but they are pretty expensive for a questionable gain in
>> performance over good lever shocks.
>>
>> As far as scuttle shake & reinforcing go, a properly restored big Healey
>> does not need any changes for less than heavy rally use. The original
>> chassis is remarkably stiff & not prone to flexing. I have heard many
>> complaints of doors binding when the car is jacked up. On a structurally
>> sound chassis any corner can be jacked high in the air & no sign of
>> flexing, such as door, boot, or bonnet gaps changing, can be detected.
>>
>> The problem comes when a less than complete chassis restoration is done.
>> I suspect that in many cases of scuttle shake the chassis/body is weak
>> from un-corrected or incompletely corrected rust damage or other
>> structural damage.
>>
>> I guess that if you have such a car, the reinforcing may be needed but
>> it does not result from original design problems. How many owners know,
>> or even want to know, about hidden structural rust damage?
>>
>> YMMV
>>
>> Dave Russell
>> BN2
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 11:29:29 -0800
Subject: Other possible cures for Scuttle shake
Jerry
BN4
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: "Rick" <webmasterrick@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 14:33:07 EST
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
Mal Bruce
From Dave Gay <dgay at simoncontractors.com>
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto:rdgard@pacbell.net]
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 12:44:17 -0700
Subject: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
My friends, Please excuse the NO LBC CONTENT.
As many of you know, my son Alex in in Iraq. He is in an area
north of Baghdad with the US Army's 4th Infantry Division. Last Sunday
they were in
a big ambush, firefight where 6 of their men were wounded and 46 enemy
were killed. He is in a dangerous place and has 3 little kids at home who
won't see their dad for Christmas. He won't be home until April.
It would be a huge favor to his mom and I if, when you are sending Holiday
cards out to your loved ones, you could include an extra one to him. He
would be thrilled to get some cards from all over the world.
If you just could something like Hi and good luck from Bob's Sprite and
Midget friends, it would be fantastic.
Send to: Captian Alexander Williams
HHC 1/8 IN
Unit 92598
APOAE 09323-2598
USA
It just takes a standard first class stamp is all.
Thank you all in advance.
Sorry for taking up this space for something so personal.
Cheers,
Bob in San Diego
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto:rdgard@pacbell.net]
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 12:56:26 -0700
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
Dave Russell
Tysonoxford@aol.com wrote:
> where did SKUTTLE come from?
>
> Mal Bruce
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto:rdgard@pacbell.net]
To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 15:52:52 -0500
Subject: RE: SCUTTLE spelling
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 2:56 PM
To: Tysonoxford@aol.com
Cc: bluechipracing@snet.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
From skitter?
Dave Russell
Tysonoxford@aol.com wrote:
> where did SKUTTLE come from?
>
> Mal Bruce
From "Adrian Boelen" <boelena at sympatico.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 16:47:40 -0500
Subject: RE: SCUTTLE spelling
Mal,
The following was included in one of the responses: "This
strengthens the entire firewall , dash, and kickwell areas , (known as
the SKUTTLE in Healeydom)". Between Webster's and Healydom, do we have
a choice?
Adrian Boelen
Montreal, 1966 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tysonoxford@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 2:33 PM
To: bluechipracing@snet.net; rusd@velocitus.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
where did SKUTTLE come from?
Mal Bruce
From Wesp11 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 17:19:51 EST
Subject: bugeye for sale
wesp11@aol.com
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 16:30:28 -0600
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Michael Salter wrote:
> Actually,,.... to be absolutely correct it should be SCUTTLE.
> Part of a car body between the windscreen and the bonnet. :-)
> Oxford English Dictionary.
> (Oddly this usage is not mentioned in the Canadian Oxford Dictionary)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
> Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 2:56 PM
> To: Tysonoxford@aol.com
> Cc: bluechipracing@snet.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
>
> From skitter?
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Tysonoxford@aol.com wrote:
> > where did SKUTTLE come from?
> >
> > Mal Bruce
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 19:52:40 -0500
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
Sorry, my mistake.
I spellsum like eye hearsum and sum tymes eye dunt hearsum so well.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tysonoxford@aol.com>
To: <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <rusd@velocitus.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
> where did SKUTTLE come from?
>
> Mal Bruce
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 19:55:53 EST
Subject: Re: Michael Oritt
> Michael Oritt passed through eastern North Carolina on his boat this
> evening
> on his annual migration from Maryland to Florida for the winter.
Good seeing you and Freida.
Best--Michael
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 17:51:30 -0800
Subject: Re: SCUTTLE spelling
Where have you been? Have you not heard of the big Space Skuttle
Program?? Geez . . . .
Terry Blubaugh
Tysonoxford@aol.com wrote:
>where did SKUTTLE come from?
>
>Mal Bruce
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 17:58:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
There is one significant difference between tube
shocks and lever shocks.
Armstrong lever shocks use the same valve for both the
bump and rebound cycle. For road going cars this is
not preferred as it can result in a rough ride & wheel
hop, particualarly if you are using a lever shock with
a stiff valve in it.
In good quality tube shocks, there are two valves in
them, one for the bump and the other for the rebound
cycle. By varying the characteristics of these two
valves, you can create a specific shock damping
profile for a specific use - you can't do this with an
Armstrong shock. Add to that some shocks also have a
seperate gas chamber that acts to soften rough patches
and reduce wheel hop in the rough.
I suspect, for many non-racers on the list, replacing
new lever shocks with new tube shocks will still
result in a noticeable improvment in comfort in ride.
Yes, there may be structureal problems, however.
Of course, you are a racer with a brand new chassis,
so this doesn't matter to you! Aren't you the least
bit intrigued by Blair Harbor's 100 with the coil over
suspension?
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> My opinion may cause some friction/disagreement. I
> have no intention of
> getting into an argument over this. My opinion only.
>
> Stock lever arm shocks in new or expertly rebuilt
> condition are as good
> or better than add on tube type shocks. I don't
> think that I have ever
> seen a direct comparison between new lever shocks &
> new tube shocks. It
> seems to be the case that worn lever shocks are
> compared to new tube
> shocks & found to be a remarkable improvement. "I
> replaced my old shocks
> with new tube shocks". Really not surprising - but
> it does nothing to
> prove that tube shocks are better.
>
> Adding tube shocks to a chassis that was not
> designed for them is
> questionable. The mounting points are subject to
> large impact loads &
> will often break or tear out after a time unless the
> chassis is
> substantially reinforced. A few tube shock kits may
> go to this extra
> trouble but they are pretty expensive for a
> questionable gain in
> performance over good lever shocks.
>
> As far as scuttle shake & reinforcing go, a properly
> restored big Healey
> does not need any changes for less than heavy
> rally use. The original
> chassis is remarkably stiff & not prone to flexing.
> I have heard many
> complaints of doors binding when the car is jacked
> up. On a structurally
> sound chassis any corner can be jacked high in the
> air & no sign of
> flexing, such as door, boot, or bonnet gaps
> changing, can be detected.
>
> The problem comes when a less than complete chassis
> restoration is done.
> I suspect that in many cases of scuttle shake the
> chassis/body is weak
> from un-corrected or incompletely corrected rust
> damage or other
> structural damage.
>
> I guess that if you have such a car, the reinforcing
> may be needed but
> it does not result from original design problems.
> How many owners know,
> or even want to know, about hidden structural rust
> damage?
>
> YMMV
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 21:19:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Other possible cures for Scuttle shake
Can you describe that panel a little better. Which piece are you referring
to, and how was it screwed into place. Was this replacing something that
used to be there? I was planning on removing the engine to do this work. But
I was wondering what other methods might be used.
Dave
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 19:18:00 -0700
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
I fully agree that good tube shocks do have more sophisticated valving &
superior performance for that last little bit of edge. I only question
the need for an $800 shock kit on a non racer, & the still possible
structural problems.
Yes I am intrigued by Blair's coil over setup. I am also mindful of the
tremendous amount of work & engineering skill that Mike put into it. I
doubt if you could get him to duplicate that setup for less than $5,000.
Regards,
Dave
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> There is one significant difference between tube
> shocks and lever shocks.
>
> Armstrong lever shocks use the same valve for both the
> bump and rebound cycle. For road going cars this is
> not preferred as it can result in a rough ride & wheel
> hop, particualarly if you are using a lever shock with
> a stiff valve in it.
>
> In good quality tube shocks, there are two valves in
> them, one for the bump and the other for the rebound
> cycle. By varying the characteristics of these two
> valves, you can create a specific shock damping
> profile for a specific use - you can't do this with an
> Armstrong shock. Add to that some shocks also have a
> seperate gas chamber that acts to soften rough patches
> and reduce wheel hop in the rough.
>
> I suspect, for many non-racers on the list, replacing
> new lever shocks with new tube shocks will still
> result in a noticeable improvment in comfort in ride.
> Yes, there may be structureal problems, however.
>
> Of course, you are a racer with a brand new chassis,
> so this doesn't matter to you! Aren't you the least
> bit intrigued by Blair Harbor's 100 with the coil over
> suspension?
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 22:14:37 -0500
Subject: RE: FW: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Gay <dgay@simoncontractors.com>
> To: Healey List (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/5/03 2:49:05 PM
> Subject: FW: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto:rdgard@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 7:53 PM
> To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
> Subject: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
>
>
>
> My friends, Please excuse the NO LBC CONTENT.
>
> As many of you know, my son Alex in in Iraq. He is in an area
> north of Baghdad with the US Army's 4th Infantry Division. Last
Sunday
> they were in
> a big ambush, firefight where 6 of their men were wounded and 46 enemy
> were killed. He is in a dangerous place and has 3 little kids at home who
> won't see their dad for Christmas. He won't be home until April.
>
> It would be a huge favor to his mom and I if, when you are sending
Holiday
> cards out to your loved ones, you could include an extra one to him. He
> would be thrilled to get some cards from all over the world.
>
> If you just could something like Hi and good luck from Bob's Sprite and
> Midget friends, it would be fantastic.
>
> Send to: Captian Alexander Williams
> HHC 1/8 IN
> Unit 92598
> APOAE 09323-2598
> USA
>
> It just takes a standard first class stamp is all.
>
> Thank you all in advance.
>
> Sorry for taking up this space for something so personal.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob in San Diego
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12chgve31/M=267637.4116730.5333196.1261774/D=egroup
>
web/S=1706034446:HM/EXP=1070679331/A=1853618/R=0/*http://www.netflix.com/Def
> ault?mqso=60178338&partid=4116730> click here
>
>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116730.5333196.1261774/D=egroupmai
> l/S=:HM/A=1853618/rand=535846796>
>
> If you must unsubscribe from the Bugeye Interest Group, please send an
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> to: bugeye-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> If you no longer want to receive emails, but wish to remain a member of
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> group, you may go to the website and change your subscription to "Web
Only"
> and you will not receive any emails.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 22:45:28 -0500
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 9:18 PM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: David Masucci; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Hi Alan,
I fully agree that good tube shocks do have more sophisticated valving &
superior performance for that last little bit of edge. I only question
the need for an $800 shock kit on a non racer, & the still possible
structural problems.
Yes I am intrigued by Blair's coil over setup. I am also mindful of the
tremendous amount of work & engineering skill that Mike put into it. I
doubt if you could get him to duplicate that setup for less than $5,000.
Regards,
Dave
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> There is one significant difference between tube
> shocks and lever shocks.
>
> Armstrong lever shocks use the same valve for both the
> bump and rebound cycle. For road going cars this is
> not preferred as it can result in a rough ride & wheel
> hop, particualarly if you are using a lever shock with
> a stiff valve in it.
>
> In good quality tube shocks, there are two valves in
> them, one for the bump and the other for the rebound
> cycle. By varying the characteristics of these two
> valves, you can create a specific shock damping
> profile for a specific use - you can't do this with an
> Armstrong shock. Add to that some shocks also have a
> seperate gas chamber that acts to soften rough patches
> and reduce wheel hop in the rough.
>
> I suspect, for many non-racers on the list, replacing
> new lever shocks with new tube shocks will still
> result in a noticeable improvment in comfort in ride.
> Yes, there may be structureal problems, however.
>
> Of course, you are a racer with a brand new chassis,
> so this doesn't matter to you! Aren't you the least
> bit intrigued by Blair Harbor's 100 with the coil over
> suspension?
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 22:48:34 -0500
Subject: xmas card
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
-----Original Message-----
> From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto:rdgard@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 7:53 PM
> To: Undisclosed-Recipient:;
> Subject: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
>
>
>
> My friends, Please excuse the NO LBC CONTENT.
>
> As many of you know, my son Alex in in Iraq. He is in an area
> north of Baghdad with the US Army's 4th Infantry Division. Last
Sunday
> they were in
> a big ambush, firefight where 6 of their men were wounded and 46 enemy
> were killed. He is in a dangerous place and has 3 little kids at home who
> won't see their dad for Christmas. He won't be home until April.
>
> It would be a huge favor to his mom and I if, when you are sending
Holiday
> cards out to your loved ones, you could include an extra one to him. He
> would be thrilled to get some cards from all over the world.
>
> If you just could something like Hi and good luck from Bob's Sprite and
> Midget friends, it would be fantastic.
>
> Send to: Captian Alexander Williams
> HHC 1/8 IN
> Unit 92598
> APOAE 09323-2598
> USA
>
> It just takes a standard first class stamp is all.
>
> Thank you all in advance.
>
> Sorry for taking up this space for something so personal.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob in San Diego
From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 22:49:28 -0500
Subject: Spacers for Dash Mount
Ryan
BJ7/8
Connecticut in the snow!
From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 22:50:54 -0500
Subject: Source for chrome bezel on heater controls?
Ryan
BJ7/8
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 04:36:32 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: Safety Fast magazines
They're on eBay; please see:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&include=0&userid=healey_hobby&sort=3&rows=25&since=-1&rd=1
Or if that doesn't work, you could search "Safety Fast" or for the seller
named healey_hobby
Thank you.
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
_________________________________________________________________
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 01:03:47 EST
Subject: Re: FW: Bugeye Group..... NO LBC--A PERSONAL FAVOR
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 05:58:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Other possible cures for Scuttle shake
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: David Masucci <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: Other possible cures for Scuttle shake
> Hey Jerry,
>
> Can you describe that panel a little better. Which piece are you referring
> to, and how was it screwed into place. Was this replacing something that
> used to be there? I was planning on removing the engine to do this work.
But
> I was wondering what other methods might be used.
>
> Dave
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 06:03:09 -0600
Subject: Re: Jerry Wall
my sincere thanks to tom felts and charley braum who drove their Healeys down
to New
Stanton, Pa for breakfast thur am. it was great meeting you and hopefully
we'll run into each other again on a future healey trail.
tom felts wrote:
>
> Any of the Texas group hear from Jerry since yesterday? He left Pittsburgh
> heading south to hopefully miss the snow. From what i heard, the western
> part of Va had a lot of snow and ice yesterday----so, it probably hit WVA
> also--and Jerry was heading in that direction.
>
>
> Tom
>
> *
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 07:57:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Jerry Wall
Really enjoyed meeting you and sharing in your adventure. Now------make
sure you get those NTAHC folks to come up to the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
Prix in July.
Tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
> To: <tomfelts@earthlink.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/6/03 7:04:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Jerry Wall
>
> jerry was running in front of the white stuff but not in front of the
rain. the RAIN-X application on the BJ7 was the only item used from my
travelin' sack of spares. spent thur pm in lexington, ky and left in the
rain and cold fri am traveling the scenic Blue Grass Parkway. arrived in
rowlett, tx about 9:30 pm. my client will be receiving a gorgeous black
over red healey that runs just as good as it looks. there were plenty of
folks along the way that wanted me to leave it in their care.
>
> my sincere thanks to tom felts and charley braum who drove their Healeys
down to New
> Stanton, Pa for breakfast thur am. it was great meeting you and
hopefully we'll run into each other again on a future healey trail.
>
> tom felts wrote:
> >
> > Any of the Texas group hear from Jerry since yesterday? He left
Pittsburgh
> > heading south to hopefully miss the snow. From what i heard, the
western
> > part of Va had a lot of snow and ice yesterday----so, it probably hit
WVA
> > also--and Jerry was heading in that direction.
> >
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > *
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 08:23:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Source for chrome bezel on heater controls?
If nothing else turns up, you might try Todd Clarke of Clarke Spares:
Clarke Spares & Restorations
90 West Swamp Road Dolestown, PA 18901
(215) 348-0595
Todd specializes in MGA's, but can sometimes help with others since parts
are common. If you have the original, he can have it rechromed, or match it.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Big Sixer" <healey@ledwith.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 10:50 PM
Subject: Source for chrome bezel on heater controls?
> Anyone know where I can find the thin chromed bezel that goes around the
> heater controls for a BJ8 dash? My normal source is dry. What is a
reasonable
> price?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7/8
From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 08:32:17 -0800
Subject: Sad Day! - The Season's Over
Time to let her hibernate and do those maintenance items. Spring not that
far away, and on to Texas in June.
Correct chassis, original style shocks and no scuttle shake.
Can't wait for spring!
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 10:41:54 -0800
Subject: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
I keep getting rust from my rust free car in my eyeballs, sprinkling down
from the severely rusted area around my tranny housing. Hey, there's rust
chunks in my hair!
Cheers
Scott
60 Mashed BN7
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 11:57:03 -0500
Subject: RE: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
sorry for the PC silliness--just couldn't help myself.
> [Original Message]
> From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/6/03 10:44:23 AM
> Subject: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
>
> OK I am a little perturbed. How do you get a wrench on that top bolt? No
> room on top or sides. Front possibly but wrenches are not long
> enough....Hmmmmm.
>
> I keep getting rust from my rust free car in my eyeballs, sprinkling down
> from the severely rusted area around my tranny housing. Hey, there's rust
> chunks in my hair!
>
> Cheers
> Scott
> 60 Mashed BN7
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 12:46:54 -0500
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
You can send me an Xmas present for that plug Norm. :)
Thanks for all the "Healey Plugs" that you have sent us in the past.
PS. Scott, If your really bored with lots of time on your hands you can
pull the trany cover and there she be. You can bleed it from there or
remove it. And while you have the tunnel off think of all of the "While
I'm at it" jobs you can do. :)
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 1:41 PM
Subject: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
> OK I am a little perturbed. How do you get a wrench on that top bolt? No
> room on top or sides. Front possibly but wrenches are not long
> enough....Hmmmmm.
>
> I keep getting rust from my rust free car in my eyeballs, sprinkling down
> from the severely rusted area around my tranny housing. Hey, there's rust
> chunks in my hair!
>
> Cheers
> Scott
> 60 Mashed BN7
From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 11:53:33 -0600
Subject: Transmission rebuild
Dave Lee
66 BJ8
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 10:44:52 -0800
Subject: RE: AAAAAAAAAAAAHH slave cylinder bolt
From Earl <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 15:44:31 -0800
Subject: Fw: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
From Meemeb at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 19:09:33 EST
Subject: Windshield BJ8
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 19:43:08 -0500
Subject: Generator Testing - What am I doing wrong?
I disassembled it and rebuilt myself. Then I tried testing it according to the
workshop manual. I didn't want to put it onto the engine, well because the
engine is not that far along in the project so I used a hand drill that would
spin around 1000rpm. I could only get a couple volts out. Sometimes it would
jump to 6 volts but then back down to 0.5-1VDC.
I thought may be it needed the fields reset or whatever they call it. It had
been sitting around for 30 years. So I connected up a battery to the terminals
for a few seconds and of course the armature spins nicely. Supposedly only a
few seconds is enough to polarize (That's the word) the field.
I decided that it must have bad coils so I sent it in to get it rebuilt 'by
professionals". I got it back and unfortunately they painted it black, right
after I had done a good job painting it engine green. Anyway that can be
fixed. It looks like they changed everything inside and maybe put new windings
on my old armature and they did a lot better job at putting in the bearing
with those hard-to-reach rivets.
Anyway, I tried to do the same bench test and I'm getting about 0.2vdc. Am I
doing this right?
Anybody ever do this kind of testing or have any better way s to check
things.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
'56 BN-2
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 19:47:39 EST
Subject: Re: Windshield BJ8
I had good luck with these folks who supplied a South African windshield,
"Pilkington" a few years ago at a very reasonable cost for my BJ-7 (same
windshield as the BJ-8):
www.locanglass.com
Happy Healeydays,
Rick
In a message dated 12/6/03 8:11:22 PM, Meemeb@aol.com writes:
<<Had to send my new windshield back to Moss because it didn't have the
correct
curvature to fit the windshield frame. Can anyone suggest another supplier
for windshields that you have had success with?
Bernie>>
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 20:05:24 EST
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAAHH slave cylinder bolt
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 20:04:24 EST
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAAHH slave cylinder bolt
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 19:16:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Paint and windows.
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 22:46:53 -0500
Subject: Balancing brake drums
There has been some talk about vibrations in these cars due to out of balance
drums. I have strong suspicions that this is the case with my BJ8.
I know there are places which can balance drums (Hendrix) but I would like to
persue it here. My mechanic says he cannot do it on his balancer, but offered
his antique bubble balancer for me to try. What do you think? Do you suppose
I could get the drums really close to balanced with it? ( I have a MIG welder
to attach metal to them and a cutoff grinder to remove metal if needed)
Keith Pennell
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 22:56:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Generator Testing - What am I doing wrong?
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 21:47:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Equip for cyl head porting
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 22:53:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums
Dave Russell
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Listers,
>
> There has been some talk about vibrations in these cars due to out of balance
> drums. I have strong suspicions that this is the case with my BJ8.
>
> I know there are places which can balance drums (Hendrix) but I would like to
> persue it here. My mechanic says he cannot do it on his balancer, but offered
> his antique bubble balancer for me to try. What do you think? Do you suppose
> I could get the drums really close to balanced with it? ( I have a MIG welder
> to attach metal to them and a cutoff grinder to remove metal if needed)
>
> Keith Pennell
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 23:47:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Equip for cyl head porting
Makita makes a good 1/4" shank die grinder. #GE0600.
Carbide burrs work far better than tool steel on iron, well worth the
extra cost.
Dave Russell
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Hello,
> Anyone know of electric, remote, die grinding
> equipment suitable for light porting on iron cylinder
> heads and manifolds? Standard burrs and abrasive
> tools have 1/4" mandels so the hand piece / chuck must
> accomodate. Also, I don't have compressed air to run
> pneumatic die grinders so I'm hoping not to invest in
> that direction.
> Thanks for any leads or opinions,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Redondo Beach, CA
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2003 06:53:54 +0000
Subject: Group Tour to St. Moritz?
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Dont worry if your Inbox will max out while you are enjoying the holidays.
Get MSN Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 22:56:40 -0800
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
re:
> > I prefer to bleed the clutch hydraulics with the slave hanging from it's
> > hose. (This is easy enough to do once the priniples are understood, and
> > avoids the use of the bleed screw entirely.)
Please elaborate.
Thanks,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 3:44 PM
Subject: Fw: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
> > Scott:
> >
> > A trick that was taught to me years ago by an old British car mechanic, if
> > you don't want to take the transmission tunnel cover off to get at the
> slave
> > cyl bolts, particularly the upper, in the future. I like this trick
> because
> > I prefer to bleed the clutch hydraulics with the slave hanging from it's
> > hose. (This is easy enough to do once the priniples are understood, and
> > avoids the use of the bleed screw entirely.)
> >
> > With the slave cyl bolts removed, run a nut (standard thickness) up onto
> the
> > upper bolt and snug it against the head. You may wish to use a slightly
> > longer bolt for this, but not so long as to contact the body when
> threading
> > / unthreading it. A little experimentation here will be useful. When
> > installed, the nut will act as a spacer to position the head of the bolt
> so
> > that you can just get a wrench on it from below past the protruding body
> of
> > the cylinder. This has worked beautifully for me for many years - it's no
> > fun having to take the trans cover off every time I need access to the
> slave
> > cyl bolts, especially on the BJ8 with it's console / armrest!
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B.C.
> > BT7
> > BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 05:55:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield BJ8
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:19:07 +0800
Subject: Re: Group Tour to St. Moritz?
If something is organised along these lines, how about going via Perth and
collecting 4 from here.
If nothing eventuates we'll see you in St Moritz.
Cheers from West Oz
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 BT7 on the road
1967 BJ8 still to do
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 2:53 PM
Subject: Group Tour to St. Moritz?
> Please pardon me if the answer to this is already common knowledge, but I
> was wondering if there are any rumblings about organizing a group tour
from
> North America to Europe for the 2nd European Healey Meeting there next
> August? If so, does it include shipping the cars over? Thanks.
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
> _________________________________________________________________
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 07:20:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint and windows.
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 09:22:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Generator Testing - What am I doing wrong?
It's very possible that your generator needs to be polarized after removing
it and tearing it apart for service. Polarizing reestablishes the current
flow that sometimes gets misdirected after disassembly. Yes, this sounds
like voodoo, but it's true.
For more information go to:
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/Polarizing.html
There are several links at the bottom of the page.
Scott Helms
From "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey at rogers.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 10:24:16 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 07:34:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Well, I guess I stand corrected by the pro!
Sorry, was confused as I have enly ever been able to
access one of the valves, which is located on the
front of the housing on the front shocks. I thought
this one valve regulated the hydralic fluid flow
between both pistons, regardles of which direction the
shock arms are travelling. Where is the other valve
located?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Russ Bamsey <rbamsey@rogers.com> wrote:
> Alan and Listers;
> I hate to differ here but all Armstrong
> shocks have a dual valve
> assembly, one valve for bump and the other for
> rebound. Both these valve
> are adjustable.
> Russ Bamsey (AKA. Shoc Doc)
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 10:45:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
Cc: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing brake drums
> Hi Keith,
> You can get an idea of how close your drums are to being centered & thus
> balanced here;
> http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/drums.html
> I suspect that even a bubble balancer would detect the gross errors &
> remove a lot of the problem.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
> > Listers,
> >
> > There has been some talk about vibrations in these cars due to out of
balance
> > drums. I have strong suspicions that this is the case with my BJ8.
> >
> > I know there are places which can balance drums (Hendrix) but I would
like to
> > persue it here. My mechanic says he cannot do it on his balancer, but
offered
> > his antique bubble balancer for me to try. What do you think? Do you
suppose
> > I could get the drums really close to balanced with it? ( I have a MIG
welder
> > to attach metal to them and a cutoff grinder to remove metal if needed)
> >
> > Keith Pennell
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 10:46:29 -0500
Subject: RE: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
>tremendous amount of work & engineering skill that Mike put into it. I
>doubt if you could get him to duplicate that setup for less than
$5,000."
Just for info. As a result of the total transformation of AHX12 as a
result of this work I have given some thought to making a kit for this
available to those who may be interested.
The modification would involve shortening the shock mountings and
installing MGB swivel axles and steering rack, among other things, but
if you want a Healey to ride more like a BMW and have a fully adjustable
front end, this sure does the trick.
I have all the parts as Solid Edge drawings so duplication is not too
difficult and the custom parts would probably come in at less than
$US2000.
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ahx12-2.html
Any takers?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 9:18 PM
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: David Masucci; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
Hi Alan,
I fully agree that good tube shocks do have more sophisticated valving &
superior performance for that last little bit of edge. I only question
the need for an $800 shock kit on a non racer, & the still possible
structural problems.
Yes I am intrigued by Blair's coil over setup. I am also mindful of the
tremendous amount of work & engineering skill that Mike put into it. I
doubt if you could get him to duplicate that setup for less than $5,000.
Regards,
Dave
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Dave -
>
> There is one significant difference between tube
> shocks and lever shocks.
>
> Armstrong lever shocks use the same valve for both the
> bump and rebound cycle. For road going cars this is
> not preferred as it can result in a rough ride & wheel
> hop, particualarly if you are using a lever shock with
> a stiff valve in it.
>
> In good quality tube shocks, there are two valves in
> them, one for the bump and the other for the rebound
> cycle. By varying the characteristics of these two
> valves, you can create a specific shock damping
> profile for a specific use - you can't do this with an
> Armstrong shock. Add to that some shocks also have a
> seperate gas chamber that acts to soften rough patches
> and reduce wheel hop in the rough.
>
> I suspect, for many non-racers on the list, replacing
> new lever shocks with new tube shocks will still
> result in a noticeable improvment in comfort in ride.
> Yes, there may be structureal problems, however.
>
> Of course, you are a racer with a brand new chassis,
> so this doesn't matter to you! Aren't you the least
> bit intrigued by Blair Harbor's 100 with the coil over
> suspension?
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
From "Rick &7& Neves" <Rick at genomictechnologies.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 11:07:20 -0500
Subject: Generator Testing - Resolved!
I figured it out!
I was doing a couple of things wrong.
First you have to connect both the big lead and the small leads together. I
was trying one at a time and getting the same low voltage result. If you
connect both of these together and then connect the neg form the voltmeter to
both, then the positive side of the voltmeter is connected to the case.
Viola!. Thanks to Chris for that help.
The second thing was the speed of the hand drill. I had four drills that I was
using. Three were cordless and get from 500-1200 rpm but that wasn't fast
enough. With those cordless drills I was only getting around 1vdc or less. I
thought the speed would be sufficient, seeing that the manual says to run your
engine at 1000rpm. When I used a corded drill that went a little faster
>1500rpm then the voltage jumped to over 20VDC. Just like Chris said it would
and I could even feel the thing torque up. I really though you were josh'in
about that but it really fights you at the higher speed when the volts kick
in.
It should be noted that I don't really know what the actual speed of the drill
is. I'm only going by what the spec is on the side of the drill. Your mileage
may vary and all!
Thanks again to all who responded on this issue.
Sincerely
Rick Neves
Millis, MA
'56 BN-2
From "Eckert, Josef" <Josef.Eckert at t-mobile.de>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:58:35 +0100
Subject: AW: Group Tour to St. Moritz?
We decided to go to the Healey weekend in England in 2004 instead of
St. Moritz, even St. Moritz is closer to our home. Think it fulfils
more our expectations. Cheers,
Josef Eckert
Germany
from the manufacturers/suppliers.
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:08:14 -0000
Subject: Re: Windshield BJ8
From "Don Snyder" <super at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 13:14:20 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Wind Screen
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 13:30:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield BJ8
From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 14:41:57 -0800
Subject: distributer shaft end float
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:59:22 -0500
Subject: RE: distributer shaft end float
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 5:42 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: distributer shaft end float
I am installing the dog drive for my 100-4 on a new mallory dual point
distributer and I am following the instructions given in Norman
Nock'sTech Talk book . He states that" To obviate shaft end float the
shaft must be pushed down from the rotor end and the dog to be hard
against the fiber washer,before drilling is begun.However, the
instructions with the Mallory distributer say that a .025 feeler gauge
should be placed between the thrust washer and the end of the dog gear
before drilling begins.Has anyone on the list installed one of these
Mallory units who might advise me on the proper procedure . Thank you
and a tip of the hat Jonathan Quandt
From N0040 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 19:32:45 EST
Subject: Re: Generator Testing - What am I doing wrong?
> http://users.arczip.com/zntech/Polarizing.html
>
As a side note. I just had my generator (original) rebuilt locally. He
mentioned that he rebuilds a lot of Lucas generator because they were found on
a lot
of U.S. built farm tractors in this area.
I told him it was from an Austin-Healey, and he apologized for not having the
correct color to repaint it, but he assumed it was for a negative ground car,
and I didn't know to mention it.
Well the rebuild looked great, but after installing, and letting it idle, a
lot of smoke was coming from the generator, even at low speeds and afterwards
with the key on. With the key off, the red light was still on in the tach.
When I brought it back, along with the voltage regulator (at his suggestion)
thinking I had done something wrong, and mentioned positive ground, he
apologized, re-polarized it reference to positive ground and everything has
been
running fine. Apparantly, the reverse current effected the coil of the
regulator,
or caused the regulator contacts to temporarily fuse together. He reworked
the regulator and repolarized.
Hope this note helps.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:47:01 -0600
Subject: FOR SALE: brake drums
63 BJ-7
From "Russ Bamsey" <rbamsey at rogers.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:22:41 -0500
Subject: Re: SKUTTLE Shake and Bilsteins and balance...
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 18:31:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Generator Testing - What am I doing wrong?
Guess I'm very lucky, because there is an electric shop in town (Port
Townsend, WA) that is owned by a guy from England. He knows Lucas. He has
done the generators for all my restorations, and he ALWAYS asks "is this for
a positive ground car".
John Snyder
> As a side note. I just had my generator (original) rebuilt locally. He
mentioned that he rebuilds a lot of Lucas generator because they were found
on a lot of U.S. built farm tractors in this area.
I told him it was from an Austin-Healey, and he apologized for not having
the correct color to repaint it, but he assumed it was for a negative
ground car, and I didn't know to mention it. Well the rebuild looked great,
but after installing, and letting it idle, a lot of smoke was coming from
the generator, even at low speeds and afterwards with the key on. With the
key off, the red light was still on in the tach. When I brought it back,
along with the voltage regulator (at his suggestion) thinking I had done
something wrong, and mentioned positive ground, he apologized, re-polarized
it reference to positive ground and everything has been running fine.
Apparantly, the reverse current effected the coil of the regulator, or
caused the regulator contacts to temporarily fuse together. He reworked the
regulator and polarized.
> Hope this note helps.
From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 21:43:11 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Door Prop - how to anchor
Does that end just float in the hole in the glove box, with the screw holes
used on another car type, or am I missing some sort of anchor piece? The
parts manual doesn't mention an anchor piece for the holes.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about?
Ryan
BJ7 / BJ8 dash
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:01:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Door Prop - how to anchor
That little piece, if you allow me to describe it, has
a pivot on it which the slide moves along, correct?
You are asking if this piece should be screwed to the
back of the dash or not.
This piece is screwed on the back of the dash wood
using the same type of screws as used to mount the
glove box to the dash.
If this piece is not properly mounted, then the door
will flop open and over time probably cause damage.
You probably have to remove the dash to get behind
there to do the job properly, esp. if there are no
holes for the screws on the pivot piece (this would be
the case if you have a new dash. If you have an
original dash on there, the holes should be there)
When mounting all of this up, it is important that
BOTH ends of the slide are achored such as the glove
box door will stay open at a 90 degree angle to the
dash itelf - if not the door will look incorrect.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Big Sixer <healey@ledwith.com> wrote:
> I bought a NOS door prop for my dash glove box door.
> One end obviously anchors
> to the door itself, The other end seems to go
> through a hole in the cardboard
> glove box. That end is attached to a piece that has
> holes for screws, however
> there isn't a place for those screws to anchor into.
>
> Does that end just float in the hole in the glove
> box, with the screw holes
> used on another car type, or am I missing some sort
> of anchor piece? The
> parts manual doesn't mention an anchor piece for the
> holes.
>
> Does anyone know what I'm talking about?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7 / BJ8 dash
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 01:07:06 EST
Subject: Re: distributer shaft end float
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 01:42:53 EST
Subject: Re: Generator Testing - polarize ???
From Earl <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2003 23:34:21 -0800
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
Here is what I do to do a clutch bleed:
Remove the slave cyl bolts ( relatively easy with the modification that I
previously described - even with a Smitty 5-speed conversion), let the slave
hang. If the hydraulic system is dry, as in a complete rebuild, fill the
reservoir, open the bleed screw, get a beer and wait 'til a bit of fluid
drips out, and close the bleed screw.
Now stroke the clutch pedal by hand gently until the piston comes up against
the circlip - this feeling is unmistakeable once experienced. Get under
the car, orient the cyl with the hose fitting upwards to allow any air
bubbles to accumulate right at the hose port - using a screwdriver or
something similar, push the slave piston forward right to the bottom of it's
bore. Any air bubbles will be forced back into the reservoir, and will
readily be seen rising to the top.
Go back to the brake pedal, stroke the pedal to get the piston back out to
the circlip, and repeat the procedure as necessary until no bubbles can be
seen in the reservoir, maybe as many as 5 - 6 times to be sure. The clutch
hydraulics are now free of air - reattatch the slave cyl to the bellhouse,
make sure that the reservoir is topped up, and go driving.
I find this easier to do than trying to get at the bleed screw (even with
the wrench modification), attatching a bleed hose, piddling brake fluid all
over myself and the car, and it can be done without a helper, or a pressure
or vaccuum bleeder - plus, it is safe for the hydraulics in terms of damage,
and doesn't waste any brake fluid.
Works for me!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
> Earl,
>
> re:
> > > I prefer to bleed the clutch hydraulics with the slave hanging from
it's
> > > hose. (This is easy enough to do once the priniples are understood,
and
> > > avoids the use of the bleed screw entirely.)
>
>
> Please elaborate.
>
>
> Thanks,
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Earl" <kags@shaw.ca>
> To: <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 3:44 PM
> Subject: Fw: AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! Slave cylinder bolt!
>
>
> > > Scott:
> > >
> > > A trick that was taught to me years ago by an old British car
mechanic, if
> > > you don't want to take the transmission tunnel cover off to get at the
> > slave
> > > cyl bolts, particularly the upper, in the future. I like this trick
> > because
> > > I prefer to bleed the clutch hydraulics with the slave hanging from
it's
> > > hose. (This is easy enough to do once the priniples are understood,
and
> > > avoids the use of the bleed screw entirely.)
> > >
> > > With the slave cyl bolts removed, run a nut (standard thickness) up
onto
> > the
> > > upper bolt and snug it against the head. You may wish to use a
slightly
> > > longer bolt for this, but not so long as to contact the body when
> > threading
> > > / unthreading it. A little experimentation here will be useful. When
> > > installed, the nut will act as a spacer to position the head of the
bolt
> > so
> > > that you can just get a wrench on it from below past the protruding
body
> > of
> > > the cylinder. This has worked beautifully for me for many years -
it's no
> > > fun having to take the trans cover off every time I need access to the
> > slave
> > > cyl bolts, especially on the BJ8 with it's console / armrest!
> > >
> > > Earl Kagna
> > > Victoria, B.C.
> > > BT7
> > > BJ8
From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 17:11:36 +0000
Subject: Armstrong Shock Adsorber Valves
As Russ says there is one valve assembly but within it are to two valves
arranged in a coaxial arrangement. Each has its own spring which is set
by adjusting a nut and then locking it. The settings are important and
are set to suit the vehicle. This is best left to people with the
correct equipment.
All the best
>Well, I guess I stand corrected by the pro!
>
>Sorry, was confused as I have enly ever been able to
>access one of the valves, which is located on the
>front of the housing on the front shocks. I thought
>this one valve regulated the hydralic fluid flow
>between both pistons, regardles of which direction the
>shock arms are travelling. Where is the other valve
>located?
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
>--- Russ Bamsey <rbamsey@rogers.com> wrote:
>> Alan and Listers;
>> I hate to differ here but all Armstrong
>> shocks have a dual valve
>> assembly, one valve for bump and the other for
>> rebound. Both these valve
>> are adjustable.
>> Russ Bamsey (AKA. Shoc Doc)
>
>
--
John Harper
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 13:21:37 +0000
Subject: AHC (UK) Web Forum open to the world again!!
Some of you will know that, three weeks ago, we restricted access to the
AHC Web Forum to UK Club members only.
You will be pleased to know that this decision was reversed at a
National Executive Committee Meeting yesterday. We have had a lot of
feedback, much of which made valid points as to why it should be open to
all. And we had noticed a big drop in traffic, which clearly did not
benefit our members seeking information, nor the Austin Healey world
wide community as a whole.
So, you can now click straight in from the web site front page again. Do
pay us a visit, and prove that this reversal was worthwhile!
Best regards
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:07:30 EST
Subject: NTAHC car for sale
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 08:42:26 -0600
Subject: Engine on non-LBC tow vehicle for LBC won't warm up
My '89 Trooper (tow vehicle for 63 BJ7 when occasionally necessary, so I
hope that justifies a posting on this list) won't warm up properly -
temp gauge barely gets off the peg.
My first thought was a stuck open thermostat, so replaced it. No change.
Is there ANYTHING else that could make a car run cold? If not, it seems
to me:
1) new thermostat is bad
2) temp gauge is bad (but the temperature of the air from the heater is
also lukewarm, and normally this thing heats like a blast furnace.)
Engine is a 2.8 liter Chevy V-6.
It's actually kind of interesting to have a problem that is the direct
OPPOSITE of my Healey's, though my winter project is to install the
Texas Cooler (with adequate clearance and new transmission bushings!)
Thanks all.
Graham
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 12:45:32 -0500
Subject: Jon Einohrn No LBC content
Cheers,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:51:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
I am still chasing this problem and can use a few
pointers... Over the weekend I made a little progress
as it was raining in So Cal.
Here is a rundown of recent activities.
Problem:
Steering box/idler, tie rods and shocks were replaced.
The car didn't pull when the front end was sloppy -
does now!
Observations/replacements:
Since I recalled having to hold the kingpin back a bit
when installing the new right shock I suspected that a
replacement shock introduced more caster. I ordered
another one, but by looking at the shock in the car
the arms look straight and not twisted. I have not
installed it yet.
Instead, this weekend I replaced lower A arm bushings
on the right side - probably originals. The front was
shot and the rear looked tired but complete. 4 hour
job - had to cut each one off with a sawzall. (This
could be a candidate for the job from H#%% list). I am
not looking forward to the left side.
After the I repace the left side A arm bushings then
I plan to head to the alignment shop again.
Toe was set by an alignment shop, but eye balling it
before and after the A arm replacement it looks to
have toe-out. So I have some doubt about the toe
setting.
There was mention of a "string" method to check the
alignment, but I searched the archives and came up
empty.
Am I headed in the right direction?
Dean BN7
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 09:56:38 -0800
Subject: Re: distributer shaft end float
One side question to this. Is this a home garage type procedure or
would I need a drill press/maching tool for this? Also is the
orientation difficult?
Seems like one would need to orient this exactly or timing would be
impossible to set. I am interested in this upgrade but am afraid to
ruin the distributor by drilling out of orientation/crooked. Thanks as
always..
Tracy
Michael Salter wrote:
>Hi Jonathan,
>You will definitely need some clearance.
>Based upon the linear coefficients of expansion of carbon steel (the
>shaft) and aluminum (the distributor body) if the length between the
>thrust faces is 4" (a guess) the differential in expansion over 200
>degrees F (probably extreme) will be about 0.005" so if you allow 0.010"
>you should be fine.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
>Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 5:42 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: distributer shaft end float
>
>I am installing the dog drive for my 100-4 on a new mallory dual point
>distributer and I am following the instructions given in Norman
>Nock'sTech Talk book . He states that" To obviate shaft end float the
>shaft must be pushed down from the rotor end and the dog to be hard
>against the fiber washer,before drilling is begun.However, the
>instructions with the Mallory distributer say that a .025 feeler gauge
>should be placed between the thrust washer and the end of the dog gear
>before drilling begins.Has anyone on the list installed one of these
>Mallory units who might advise me on the proper procedure . Thank you
>and a tip of the hat Jonathan Quandt
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 10:09:35 -0800
Subject: Cooling System Treatment
Any comments on these or similar products?
RMI-25 Cooling System Treatment.
The add says: RMI-25 is a liquid consisting of a pH Stabilizer for
acid/alkaline balance, an Oxygen Scavenger to prevent cavitation, erosion and
cylinder pitting. A Lubricant for seals, hoses and water pumps. A Cleaner that
breaks down rust, scale and corrosive deposits. These deposits are changed
from solids to a soft floating harmless gel-like material. The dissolved
solids will not recombine or form blockages in the cooling system. After a
period of time the dissolved solids will purge out of the system and into the
coolant recovery tank. In the case of vehicles with coolant filters the
dissolved materials will trap in the filter. In a couple weeks of driving, a
dirty system will be nearly clean. This cleaning action is continuous when the
engine is in operation. Once clean metal status is reached an organic barrier
is then formed on the clean metal preventing further contamination. Water
Conditioning is accomplished by a surfactant agent, improving heat transfer,
making water more efficient than coolant itself.
Redline Water Wetter
The add says: Red Line Water Wetter. is designed to provide improved metal
wetting and excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a
glycol coolant. Red Line Water Wetter. will provide the proper corrosion
inhibition for all cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron,
steel, copper, brass, and lead. Water has twice the heat transfer capability
when compared to 50% glycol antifreeze/coolant in water. Most passenger
automobiles have a cooling system designed to reject sufficient heat under
normal operating conditions using a 50/50 glycol solution in water. However,
in racing applications, the use of water and Water Wetter. will enable the use
of smaller radiator systems, which means less frontal drag, and it will also
reduce cylinder head temperatures, even when compared to water alone, which
means more spark advance may be used to improve engine torque.
I've tried to contact Ultimate Car Care Products but the phone number has been
discontinued. Gone with the wind?
David Crawford
San Diego
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 14:04:16 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
Lots of ways to skin that cat, but one of my favorites these days would be to
get the cheapest laser pointer you can find, and mount it to a rigid piece of
metal or wood that will just bridge the diameter of the rim (and still not
touch the tire.) Oh, and the laser pointer-to-wheel adapter will need to be
deep enough for a cutout that clears the hub and spinner.
Then, you just project dots front and rear, mark them, and do the math. If
you separate the front and rear projection surfaces by 10x the *tire* (not
rim) diameter, the difference between the spacing of the dots in front and
back is 10x the toe in or out.
Just by the way, pulling left or right is not likely to be caused by toe.
Look first to camber, and then to caster.
> Am I headed in the right direction?
That's something that happens as a result of alignment. :-)
--
John Miller
Love at first sight is one of the greatest labor-saving devices the
world has ever seen.
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 11:14:38 -0800
Subject: RE: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
-----Original Message-----
From: John Miller [mailto:healeys@n4vu.com]
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 11:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
On Monday, December 08, 2003 12:51, Dean Caccavo wrote:
> There was mention of a "string" method to check the
> alignment, but I searched the archives and came up
> empty.
Lots of ways to skin that cat, but one of my favorites these days would be
to
get the cheapest laser pointer you can find, and mount it to a rigid piece
of
metal or wood that will just bridge the diameter of the rim (and still not
touch the tire.) Oh, and the laser pointer-to-wheel adapter will need to be
deep enough for a cutout that clears the hub and spinner.
Then, you just project dots front and rear, mark them, and do the math. If
you separate the front and rear projection surfaces by 10x the *tire* (not
rim) diameter, the difference between the spacing of the dots in front and
back is 10x the toe in or out.
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 15:53:05 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
Right, but there is another variety of suspension mods that is unintentional,
and perhaps unknown to the current owner, if you catch my drift.
--
John
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 13:08:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
Love it. I have the cheapest laser level bar
none(Harbor Freight). I'll give it a try.
Thanks
Dean BN7
> get the cheapest laser pointer you can find, and
> mount it to a rigid piece of
> metal or wood that will just bridge the diameter of
> the rim (and still not
> touch the tire.)
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 13:33:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Low Low Tech Toe-in Tool
__ __
| |
|__________________|
By the way, it was great cruising weather yesterday
here in South Texas.
Rich
57BN4
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From KingR44916 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:14:25 EST
Subject: selling my bj8
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:23:36 EST
Subject: Re: selling my bj8
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:23:45 EST
Subject: Fuel gauge problem
From <nick at kiratsous.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 20:06:31 -0500
Subject: BJ8 wanted
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:09:18 -0600
Subject: Grundy insurance?
Has anyone ever had any experience with Grundy for insurance? How do you
rate them, and have you had any good/bad experiences with them?
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 20:42:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel gauge problem
Good luck,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ECP4UW@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 7:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fuel gauge problem
I am hoping some one will help me track down a problem with my fuel
gauge.
1. Reads 1/4 full when the tank is actually full.
2. when the lead is disconnected from the sending unit the gauge moves
to
full.
3. Reversing the leads make no difference.
4. The float is in good condition. No leaks.
5. T he interior of the electrical portion of the sending unit appear
clean
and in good order.
Anyone have any recommendations as how to proceed to check the
various
components to eleminate the problem?
Gene BN4
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 17:49:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN7 Pulls to the right - minor update
Ok, everyone else definitely has smart answers, so let
me ask you some stupid questions OK? :
1) Is the air pressure in your right tire low?
2) Are your shocks properly bolted down?
3) Are your front bearings properly shimmed? Have
they been checked and repacked recently?
4) How long has it been since you've rebuilt or
checked the front caliper pucks on your car? If there
is corrosion on the pucks, the pads could be dragging
on the brake disk on the right hand side.
5) If your king pins are new, have you rechecked
everything to make sure everything is tight and
nothing has fallen off??
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thank you for all who provided help -
>
> I am still chasing this problem and can use a few
> pointers... Over the weekend I made a little
> progress
> as it was raining in So Cal.
>
> Here is a rundown of recent activities.
>
> Problem:
> Steering box/idler, tie rods and shocks were
> replaced.
> The car didn't pull when the front end was sloppy -
> does now!
>
> Observations/replacements:
> Since I recalled having to hold the kingpin back a
> bit
> when installing the new right shock I suspected that
> a
> replacement shock introduced more caster. I ordered
> another one, but by looking at the shock in the car
> the arms look straight and not twisted. I have not
> installed it yet.
>
> Instead, this weekend I replaced lower A arm
> bushings
> on the right side - probably originals. The front
> was
> shot and the rear looked tired but complete. 4 hour
> job - had to cut each one off with a sawzall. (This
> could be a candidate for the job from H#%% list). I
> am
> not looking forward to the left side.
>
> After the I repace the left side A arm bushings then
>
> I plan to head to the alignment shop again.
>
> Toe was set by an alignment shop, but eye balling it
> before and after the A arm replacement it looks to
> have toe-out. So I have some doubt about the toe
> setting.
>
> There was mention of a "string" method to check the
> alignment, but I searched the archives and came up
> empty.
>
> Am I headed in the right direction?
>
> Dean BN7
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 20:06:24 -0800
Subject: early BN1 wheel on eBay
Item number: 2446449082
-Roland
BN1 in recovery
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 00:04:36 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Door Prop - how to anchor
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 00:13:14 EST
Subject: Re: Grundy insurance?
Hope this helps, Gary
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 22:41:20 -0800
Subject: Engine problems-big 100-4
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 23:34:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine on non-LBC tow vehicle for LBC won't warm up
Sounds like your electric fan thermostatic control
sensor is bad. Is the radiator fan always on?
You could also have a bad engine control chip,
although I would have no clue how to check this.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8 & no LBCs
--- "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com> wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> My '89 Trooper (tow vehicle for 63 BJ7 when
> occasionally necessary, so I
> hope that justifies a posting on this list) won't
> warm up properly -
> temp gauge barely gets off the peg.
>
> My first thought was a stuck open thermostat, so
> replaced it. No change.
>
> Is there ANYTHING else that could make a car run
> cold? If not, it seems
> to me:
>
> 1) new thermostat is bad
>
> 2) temp gauge is bad (but the temperature of the air
> from the heater is
> also lukewarm, and normally this thing heats like a
> blast furnace.)
>
> Engine is a 2.8 liter Chevy V-6.
>
> It's actually kind of interesting to have a problem
> that is the direct
> OPPOSITE of my Healey's, though my winter project is
> to install the
> Texas Cooler (with adequate clearance and new
> transmission bushings!)
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Graham
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:12:03 -0000
Subject: Windshield BJ8
Talking to Uroglas yesterday they also provide door glass and Qtr light
glass for Healeys.
Hope this is of help.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay (AH 3000 BJ8)
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
For people residing in the UK may I suggest that they locate the
manufacturers on www.classic-car-world.co.uk
It is possible to purchase either full grey ,or green tint ,or clear ,direct
from the manufacturers/suppliers.
Regards.
David.
www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: Windshield BJ8
> the ntahc placed a club order through locan a year or so ago and all
windscreens received were triplex from england. this was a mixed order of
early and late for a total of 6 in one crate.
> HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Bernie,
> >
> > I had good luck with these folks who supplied a South African
windshield,
> > "Pilkington" a few years ago at a very reasonable cost for my BJ-7
(same
> > windshield as the BJ-8):
> >
> > www.locanglass.com
> >
> > Happy Healeydays,
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/6/03 8:11:22 PM, Meemeb@aol.com writes:
> >
> > <<Had to send my new windshield back to Moss because it didn't have the
> > correct
> > curvature to fit the windshield frame. Can anyone suggest another
supplier
> > for windshields that you have had success with?
> > Bernie>>
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 09:10:32 EST
Subject: Cold air
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 09:17:20 EST
Subject: 6 branch manifolds
From "ukhealey_GRADWELL" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 15:48:33 -0000
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
From N0040 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 11:20:05 EST
Subject: Re: Cold air
I'll take a shot at this.
Air would change about 3.3% density change per in.Hg or about 13.3% change
from a very low barameteric pressure to a very high change on the barometer,
and
about 1.9% per 100F change. So from 900F (32.20C) summer to 300F (-1.110C)
winter, air would be denser by 11.4% (111% more molecules than at warmer
temperature).
Actually, 0.0722 lbs./cu.ft. to 0.0811 lbs./cu.ft. at 14.696 psia (sea level)
Sorry for the reference to 0F, and lbs./cu.ft too old to change my
engineering units.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:44:02 -0600
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Quoting Simonlachlan@aol.com:
> Hi,
> I'm contemplating purchasing a six branch exhaust set up.
> I gather, from photos, that the heat shield is not used with these?
> But, I'd imagine that there would be a greater area of hot metal than in the
>
> factory originals hence more hot air and related problems??
> I've read about the tape available for these manifolds...I presume it's to
> help with heat issues?
> Does it work?
> Doesn't it simply fall off after a while or is it cemented on for life after
>
> it's got the heat treatment?
> If it does work in reducing the heat, does it cause any other
> problems....don't the manifold branches get too hot, if they can't disperse
> some of the heat?
> Simon.
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 12:01:18 EST
Subject: Gasket goo
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 12:29:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Cold air
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 9:10 AM
Subject: Cold air
| I notice that my car, never particularly sluggish, responds better in cold
| weather.
| I appreciate that cold equals smaller, hece more air for your money with
the
| petrol mix.......but, I'm surprised that the difference is so easily
| discernible.
| Does air shrink that much?
| Is it trying to tell me that it's running too rich, which is contary to
what
| the manual's method of setting up the carbs would indicate.
| Any physicists out there?
| Simon.
|
|
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:52:45 -0800
Subject: OAC113 coupe
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 12:16:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Gasket goo
Put it on all the gaskets you mentioned.
The only place I deviate from this practice is on intake and exhaust
manifolds at the cylinder head. On these I use heavy axel grease.
Seals great, doesn't bake on, and makes for easy removal. Does a great
job, too, especially if you have need to change or remove manifolds from
time to time, such as for getting a late LCB smogged in California. I
think I got about four or five changes out of a manifold gasket on the
Triumph using axel grease.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 16:02:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Cold air
Air density & thus available oxygen varies with the temperature &
altitude. So the mixture would need to be made slightly richer as air
temperature & altitude are decreased. The power (density) will increase
with cooler air & lower altitude. The following is reasonably close. Air
density increases about 2% for each 100F drop in temperature.
Air Temperature % Air Density
100F 112%
300F 108%
500F 104%
700F 100%
900F 96%
1100F 92%
1800F 78%
It appears that if a cold air intake reduces intake temperature from
1800F under hood to 700F ambient that there will be a gain of 22% in
power if fuel mixture is richened accordingly.
Additionally, air density decreases by about 2% for each 500 ft
increase in elevation above sea level.
Altitude above MSL % Air Density
0 100%
500 98%
1000 96%
2000 92%
3000 88%
4000 84%
5000 80%
6000 76%
An engine jetted for sea level will be down to 76% power & fuel mixture
too rich by 33%.
Note: the above assumptions do not take humidity into consideration &
this can change the numbers a bit.
Dave Russell
BN2
Healeyolic wrote:
> It is my understanding that colder air tends to be denser thus their
> would be more air in a given volume and that might affect the
> mixture. I vaguely remember my son, who is an aerospace engineer,
> trying to explain that to me but I have lost too many grey cells.
>
> John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <Simonlachlan@aol.com> To:
> <healeys@autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 9:10 AM
> Subject: Cold air
>
>
> | I notice that my car, never particularly sluggish, responds better
> in cold | weather. | I appreciate that cold equals smaller, hece more
> air for your money with the | petrol mix.......but, I'm surprised
> that the difference is so easily | discernible. | Does air shrink
> that much? | Is it trying to tell me that it's running too rich,
> which is contary to what | the manual's method of setting up the
> carbs would indicate. | Any physicists out there? | Simon.
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 17:53:27 -0600
Subject: need a picture of outsdie seat belt mount
new floors but no seat belt mounts were in them. I hope that I'm correct in
that there were seat belt mounts. Thanks a lot!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 19:11:11 -0500
Subject: Cooper S for sale
Just a note to let you know of a Cooper S for sale here in Newport News, VA.
Do not know the owner. All I know is it is a Cooper S, black top, silver
bottom. Email me if you want the phone number. If you are interested enough
to come see it I can probably provide lodging for a night or two if you need
it.
Keith Pennell
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 17:55:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Cold air
The whole notion of water injection has been utilized in the past on
various internal combustion engines, especially aircraft engines.
BTW, I did end up braking the crankshaft on the car! Wow, does that
every make a lot of strange noise!
Don't go there with your Healey if you can help it.
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 18:37:27 -0800
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
I also have a one owner '72 240Z which is still a daily driver. I used the tape
on its brand new headers and was pleased with the under bonnet temperature
reduction. However two things will happen over time: All the heat now goes
through the exhaust and it will fry the guts of whatever muffler you have. And
the expensive one, it will fry all the welds in the headers and I soon sounded
like a Midas commercial. This is personal experience. I also put it out on
the Z
List and had several confirmations of the same result. This didn't happen to me
but another reported problem was holding moisture and rusting out the headers
prematurely.
In my local Healey Club is a "built to the hilt" Frog. He has no problems but
the
car is rarely driven and raced.
IMHO If you drive the car often, avoid header wrap. And NEVER put it on a cast
iron manifold!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
'53 BN1 #663
'72 240Z
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Simon,
> I'm assuming that you are talking about the fiberglass type of header wrap.
> Many speed shops sell this, Summit, Speedway etc. I used header wrap (tape) on
> my headers on my Cobra replica. The motor is a small block ford 351W and it
> used to put out a huge amount of heat without the header wrap. Once I wrapped
> the headers the majority of the heat was kept inside the header and the
> footboxes stayed cool. The downside of header wrap is that it contains the
> heat within the header (higher temps) and hence the header is not supposed to
> last as long. However, I have had my Cobra headers for 6 years and got them
> used to start with. I think that the header wrap works great and if I get
> headers for my Healey I would use it in a heartbeat. Note: Once installed be
> prepared to see a lot of smoke for an hour or so.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
>
> Quoting Simonlachlan@aol.com:
>
> > Hi,
> > I'm contemplating purchasing a six branch exhaust set up.
> > I gather, from photos, that the heat shield is not used with these?
> > But, I'd imagine that there would be a greater area of hot metal than in the
> >
> > factory originals hence more hot air and related problems??
> > I've read about the tape available for these manifolds...I presume it's to
> > help with heat issues?
> > Does it work?
> > Doesn't it simply fall off after a while or is it cemented on for life after
> >
> > it's got the heat treatment?
> > If it does work in reducing the heat, does it cause any other
> > problems....don't the manifold branches get too hot, if they can't disperse
> > some of the heat?
> > Simon.
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 21:53:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Cold air
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brian N
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 8:55 PM
To: Simonlachlan@aol.com; Healeys
Subject: Re: Cold air
Some time back I built an awfully nice and fast Triumph Spitfire
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ocmsrzr1.jpg . The motor was a punched out
1500, high compression, cammed, carbbed, the works. It not only put out
more power from cold air, but also from very humid air. Being so light,
even small changes in engine performance were noticeable from behind the
wheel. Cool rainy days seemed to be the best.
The whole notion of water injection has been utilized in the past on
various internal combustion engines, especially aircraft engines.
BTW, I did end up braking the crankshaft on the car! Wow, does that
every make a lot of strange noise!
Don't go there with your Healey if you can help it.
Brian N
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 22:03:29 EST
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 19:22:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Gasket goo
On the halfshafts... if you replace the O ring with a
new one, you won't need gasket cement to keep your
drums dry. For the diff pumpkin you can use copper
silicone or anything like that (frankly, anything will
work here), but to be honest there are so many bolts
on this part it won't leak if everything is properly
bolted down.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> Third question today I'm afraid.
> Hope to fit my 3:54 soon.
> Do I use any gasket goo with the two halfshaft paper
> gaskets and the big
> paper gasket between the diff and the axle?
> And, if so, what type?
> Thanks.
> Simon.
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 14:28:37 +1100
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
My personal take is that heat wrapping headers is justified by how much
cooler the engine bay runs. With 3 webers, and a double ended fuel pump, and
having seen another healey owners engine catch fire in the pits - I feel a
lot safer with heat wrap which dramatically reduces the surface temp of the
exhaust system, which is directly below the webers, without a heat shield. I
wrapped until just past the point where the headers turn, and start to head
out of the engine bay under the car, ie where the pipes are into the airflow
under the car.
When I replace these headers, I'm seriously considering going to go for a
ceramic coating (inside and outside) - like jags had - a type of coating
available from a number of sources - eg in USA one supplier is jethot.
How long do unwrapped headers normally last anyway? I've had 2 mufflers
(side exhaust) in 8 years - one was literally 'worn' out - but thats mostly
because anything which is 3 inches off the road tends to get abraded on
uneven surfaces....
I heard that ceramic coatings can 'crack' eg if your exhaust hits
something - anyone have any experience with ceramic coated headers/
extractors?
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: <bn1@pacbell.net>
To: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
Cc: <Simonlachlan@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
> WARNING! And yes, I meant to shout! Do not use header wrap on a
frequently
> driven vehicle.
>
> I also have a one owner '72 240Z which is still a daily driver. I used
the tape
> on its brand new headers and was pleased with the under bonnet temperature
> reduction. However two things will happen over time: All the heat now
goes
> through the exhaust and it will fry the guts of whatever muffler you have.
And
> the expensive one, it will fry all the welds in the headers and I soon
sounded
> like a Midas commercial. This is personal experience. I also put it out
on the Z
> List and had several confirmations of the same result. This didn't happen
to me
> but another reported problem was holding moisture and rusting out the
headers
> prematurely.
>
> In my local Healey Club is a "built to the hilt" Frog. He has no problems
but the
> car is rarely driven and raced.
>
> IMHO If you drive the car often, avoid header wrap. And NEVER put it on a
cast
> iron manifold!
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 BN1 #663
> '72 240Z
>
>
>
> dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
>
> > Simon,
> > I'm assuming that you are talking about the fiberglass type of header
wrap.
> > Many speed shops sell this, Summit, Speedway etc. I used header wrap
(tape) on
> > my headers on my Cobra replica. The motor is a small block ford 351W and
it
> > used to put out a huge amount of heat without the header wrap. Once I
wrapped
> > the headers the majority of the heat was kept inside the header and the
> > footboxes stayed cool. The downside of header wrap is that it contains
the
> > heat within the header (higher temps) and hence the header is not
supposed to
> > last as long. However, I have had my Cobra headers for 6 years and got
them
> > used to start with. I think that the header wrap works great and if I
get
> > headers for my Healey I would use it in a heartbeat. Note: Once
installed be
> > prepared to see a lot of smoke for an hour or so.
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > 63 BJ-7
> >
> > Quoting Simonlachlan@aol.com:
> >
> > > Hi,
> > > I'm contemplating purchasing a six branch exhaust set up.
> > > I gather, from photos, that the heat shield is not used with these?
> > > But, I'd imagine that there would be a greater area of hot metal than
in the
> > >
> > > factory originals hence more hot air and related problems??
> > > I've read about the tape available for these manifolds...I presume
it's to
> > > help with heat issues?
> > > Does it work?
> > > Doesn't it simply fall off after a while or is it cemented on for life
after
> > >
> > > it's got the heat treatment?
> > > If it does work in reducing the heat, does it cause any other
> > > problems....don't the manifold branches get too hot, if they can't
disperse
> > > some of the heat?
> > > Simon.
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:32:26 -0800
Subject: O/T Steel Craft Panels
Brian
From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 22:41:00 EST
Subject: Fuel Gauge
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 19:49:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Will you have this problem if everything is Stainless
Steel? Most available header and pipe combinations
for healeys are SS these days...
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> WARNING! And yes, I meant to shout! Do not use
> header wrap on a frequently
> driven vehicle.
>
> I also have a one owner '72 240Z which is still a
> daily driver. I used the tape
> on its brand new headers and was pleased with the
> under bonnet temperature
> reduction. However two things will happen over
> time: All the heat now goes
> through the exhaust and it will fry the guts of
> whatever muffler you have. And
> the expensive one, it will fry all the welds in the
> headers and I soon sounded
> like a Midas commercial. This is personal
> experience. I also put it out on the Z
> List and had several confirmations of the same
> result. This didn't happen to me
> but another reported problem was holding moisture
> and rusting out the headers
> prematurely.
>
> In my local Healey Club is a "built to the hilt"
> Frog. He has no problems but the
> car is rarely driven and raced.
>
> IMHO If you drive the car often, avoid header wrap.
> And NEVER put it on a cast
> iron manifold!
>
> Bill Barnett
> Santa Ana, CA
> '53 BN1 #663
> '72 240Z
>
>
>
> dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
>
> > Simon,
> > I'm assuming that you are talking about the
> fiberglass type of header wrap.
> > Many speed shops sell this, Summit, Speedway etc.
> I used header wrap (tape) on
> > my headers on my Cobra replica. The motor is a
> small block ford 351W and it
> > used to put out a huge amount of heat without the
> header wrap. Once I wrapped
> > the headers the majority of the heat was kept
> inside the header and the
> > footboxes stayed cool. The downside of header
> wrap is that it contains the
> > heat within the header (higher temps) and hence
> the header is not supposed to
> > last as long. However, I have had my Cobra
> headers for 6 years and got them
> > used to start with. I think that the header wrap
> works great and if I get
> > headers for my Healey I would use it in a
> heartbeat. Note: Once installed be
> > prepared to see a lot of smoke for an hour or so.
> >
> > Randy Dickson
> > Healey Archaeologist
> > 63 BJ-7
> >
> > Quoting Simonlachlan@aol.com:
> >
> > > Hi,
> > > I'm contemplating purchasing a six branch
> exhaust set up.
> > > I gather, from photos, that the heat shield is
> not used with these?
> > > But, I'd imagine that there would be a greater
> area of hot metal than in the
> > >
> > > factory originals hence more hot air and related
> problems??
> > > I've read about the tape available for these
> manifolds...I presume it's to
> > > help with heat issues?
> > > Does it work?
> > > Doesn't it simply fall off after a while or is
> it cemented on for life after
> > >
> > > it's got the heat treatment?
> > > If it does work in reducing the heat, does it
> cause any other
> > > problems....don't the manifold branches get too
> hot, if they can't disperse
> > > some of the heat?
> > > Simon.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 20:56:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Cold air
Broke a crank once in my street 392 Hemi. Made a terrible noise but
since the crank ends couldn't really go anywhere, nothing else was hurt.
Dave Russell
BN2
Brian N wrote:
> Some time back I built an awfully nice and fast Triumph Spitfire
> http://www.beachcitygas.com/ocmsrzr1.jpg . The motor was a punched out
> 1500, high compression, cammed, carbbed, the works. It not only put out
> more power from cold air, but also from very humid air. Being so light,
> even small changes in engine performance were noticeable from behind the
> wheel. Cool rainy days seemed to be the best.
>
> The whole notion of water injection has been utilized in the past on
> various internal combustion engines, especially aircraft engines.
>
> BTW, I did end up braking the crankshaft on the car! Wow, does that
> every make a lot of strange noise!
>
> Don't go there with your Healey if you can help it.
>
> Brian N
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 22:16:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Cold air
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 22:30:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Cold air
I notice much weaker motor on really hot days esp. after time spent moving
slow or in traffic, presumably because underhood temps have really risen.
Much better on cooler days, maybe seventy degrees, and slightly better
still at maybe 40 fahrenheit. Not improvement beyond that, that is purley
seat of the pants, but interesting to see oters note the same sort of thing.
Modern cars nearly all have ducting to get air at or near and outside
source, supercharged and turboed engines often have intercoolers to keep the
charge cooler and denser, so I assume there is something to the cooler air
thing.
The cold air box on the M is one of the earliest applications on a
production car that I am aware of, but haven't done extensive research.
I have considered fabricating one for my stock engine and see if I notice a
difference.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 21:31:57 -0800
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Can't answer that, Alan, as my application was mild steel. However, the
weakest point is the weld. I have never welded in my life, so that
answer is up to those of you who have. I simply reported my personal
experience which was backed up by several others on the Z List.
I don't have a digital camera or I would send you a picture of the
headers when I pulled them off Z-Car. They're trash.
Personally, I've heard too many problems about SS systems. I'm happy
with my original BN1 exhaust into a glass pack. Not exactly concours,
but makes a great sound with that big ol' 4 banger and helps with all
the engine mods that I have done.
Bill
'53 BN1
'72 240Z
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Bill -
>
> Will you have this problem if everything is Stainless
> Steel? Most available header and pipe combinations
> for healeys are SS these days...
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> > WARNING! And yes, I meant to shout! Do not use
> > header wrap on a frequently
> > driven vehicle.
> >
> > I also have a one owner '72 240Z which is still a
> > daily driver. I used the tape
> > on its brand new headers and was pleased with the
> > under bonnet temperature
> > reduction. However two things will happen over
> > time: All the heat now goes
> > through the exhaust and it will fry the guts of
> > whatever muffler you have. And
> > the expensive one, it will fry all the welds in the
> > headers and I soon sounded
> > like a Midas commercial. This is personal
> > experience. I also put it out on the Z
> > List and had several confirmations of the same
> > result. This didn't happen to me
> > but another reported problem was holding moisture
> > and rusting out the headers
> > prematurely.
> >
> > In my local Healey Club is a "built to the hilt"
> > Frog. He has no problems but the
> > car is rarely driven and raced.
> >
> > IMHO If you drive the car often, avoid header wrap.
> > And NEVER put it on a cast
> > iron manifold!
> >
> > Bill Barnett
> > Santa Ana, CA
> > '53 BN1 #663
> > '72 240Z
> >
> >
> >
> > dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> >
> > > Simon,
> > > I'm assuming that you are talking about the
> > fiberglass type of header wrap.
> > > Many speed shops sell this, Summit, Speedway etc.
> > I used header wrap (tape) on
> > > my headers on my Cobra replica. The motor is a
> > small block ford 351W and it
> > > used to put out a huge amount of heat without the
> > header wrap. Once I wrapped
> > > the headers the majority of the heat was kept
> > inside the header and the
> > > footboxes stayed cool. The downside of header
> > wrap is that it contains the
> > > heat within the header (higher temps) and hence
> > the header is not supposed to
> > > last as long. However, I have had my Cobra
> > headers for 6 years and got them
> > > used to start with. I think that the header wrap
> > works great and if I get
> > > headers for my Healey I would use it in a
> > heartbeat. Note: Once installed be
> > > prepared to see a lot of smoke for an hour or so.
> > >
> > > Randy Dickson
> > > Healey Archaeologist
> > > 63 BJ-7
> > >
> > > Quoting Simonlachlan@aol.com:
> > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > > I'm contemplating purchasing a six branch
> > exhaust set up.
> > > > I gather, from photos, that the heat shield is
> > not used with these?
> > > > But, I'd imagine that there would be a greater
> > area of hot metal than in the
> > > >
> > > > factory originals hence more hot air and related
> > problems??
> > > > I've read about the tape available for these
> > manifolds...I presume it's to
> > > > help with heat issues?
> > > > Does it work?
> > > > Doesn't it simply fall off after a while or is
> > it cemented on for life after
> > > >
> > > > it's got the heat treatment?
> > > > If it does work in reducing the heat, does it
> > cause any other
> > > > problems....don't the manifold branches get too
> > hot, if they can't disperse
> > > > some of the heat?
> > > > Simon.
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 23:32:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Cold air
p.s.......thermodynamics that is............
From Earl <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 22:11:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge
The sending unit should be mounted with the float facing to the front of
the car (electric terminal to the rear) so that the float will drop into the
well in the tank for accurate readings. That could be at least part of your
problem.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECP4UW@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM
Subject: Fuel Gauge
I'm making progress solving my fuel gauge problem. Michael Salter put me on
to a great web site with a Tech article on adjusting the gauge. Right now I
am bothered with a resistance problem at the sending unit. Out of the tank
I
can get 60 ohm's but in the tank the max is 30 ohms. I am wondering if the
sending unit is in the right position. So my question is: where should the
connection terminal be placed? towards the front? the back? left side? or
right
side?
Help is appreciated
Gene
BN4
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 22:46:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
The reason the weakest point is at the weld is for
three reasons:
1) Weld steel is typically much more prone to
corrosion as it is usually allowed to cool slowly over
time (after being applied), which reduces hardness and
increases corrosion sensitivity. Also, weld rods &
wire are usually formulated to "lay" easily, which
often puts the metal composition at odds with
resistance against corrosion.
2) Welds are usually placed at junctions and bends in
the metal, which are always the weakest point in any
metal piece. Add to that the "work hardening"
characteristics of imperfect welds located at joints,
and you have even a weaker link.
3) Welds are almost always a different chemical
composition and differ in crystaline structure to the
underlying steel (due to different cooling process &
different metal formulation of welding rods & wire).
This creates a situation where welds will expand and
contract at different rates to the surrounding metal
under heating and cooling, causing more work
hardening.
As a result, I can believe using heat wrap on mild
steel headers can cause many problems.
But with SS headers... many of these issues,
particularly corrosion, is mostly removed from the
equation. They'd probably last longer.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> Hi Alan & List,
>
> Can't answer that, Alan, as my application was mild
> steel. However, the
> weakest point is the weld. I have never welded in
> my life, so that
> answer is up to those of you who have. I simply
> reported my personal
> experience which was backed up by several others on
> the Z List.
>
> I don't have a digital camera or I would send you a
> picture of the
> headers when I pulled them off Z-Car. They're
> trash.
>
> Personally, I've heard too many problems about SS
> systems. I'm happy
> with my original BN1 exhaust into a glass pack. Not
> exactly concours,
> but makes a great sound with that big ol' 4 banger
> and helps with all
> the engine mods that I have done.
>
> Bill
> '53 BN1
> '72 240Z
>
> Blue One Hundred wrote:
>
> > Bill -
> >
> > Will you have this problem if everything is
> Stainless
> > Steel? Most available header and pipe
> combinations
> > for healeys are SS these days...
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> >
> > --- bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> > > WARNING! And yes, I meant to shout! Do not use
> > > header wrap on a frequently
> > > driven vehicle.
> > >
> > > I also have a one owner '72 240Z which is still
> a
> > > daily driver. I used the tape
> > > on its brand new headers and was pleased with
> the
> > > under bonnet temperature
> > > reduction. However two things will happen over
> > > time: All the heat now goes
> > > through the exhaust and it will fry the guts of
> > > whatever muffler you have. And
> > > the expensive one, it will fry all the welds in
> the
> > > headers and I soon sounded
> > > like a Midas commercial. This is personal
> > > experience. I also put it out on the Z
> > > List and had several confirmations of the same
> > > result. This didn't happen to me
> > > but another reported problem was holding
> moisture
> > > and rusting out the headers
> > > prematurely.
> > >
> > > In my local Healey Club is a "built to the hilt"
> > > Frog. He has no problems but the
> > > car is rarely driven and raced.
> > >
> > > IMHO If you drive the car often, avoid header
> wrap.
> > > And NEVER put it on a cast
> > > iron manifold!
> > >
> > > Bill Barnett
> > > Santa Ana, CA
> > > '53 BN1 #663
> > > '72 240Z
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> > >
> > > > Simon,
> > > > I'm assuming that you are talking about the
> > > fiberglass type of header wrap.
> > > > Many speed shops sell this, Summit, Speedway
> etc.
> > > I used header wrap (tape) on
> > > > my headers on my Cobra replica. The motor is a
> > > small block ford 351W and it
> > > > used to put out a huge amount of heat without
> the
> > > header wrap. Once I wrapped
> > > > the headers the majority of the heat was kept
> > > inside the header and the
> > > > footboxes stayed cool. The downside of header
> > > wrap is that it contains the
> > > > heat within the header (higher temps) and
> hence
> > > the header is not supposed to
> > > > last as long. However, I have had my Cobra
> > > headers for 6 years and got them
> > > > used to start with. I think that the header
> wrap
> > > works great and if I get
> > > > headers for my Healey I would use it in a
> > > heartbeat. Note: Once installed be
> > > > prepared to see a lot of smoke for an hour or
> so.
> > > >
> > > > Randy Dickson
> > > > Healey Archaeologist
> > > > 63 BJ-7
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 01:51:55 EST
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Cheers,
Gary
From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:21:09 -0800
Subject: BN2 Fender needed
He is in need of a decent/repairable front Right fender for a BN2 with the
larger wheel opening. He is in Georgia and I9m sure will compensate
appropriate.
Please respond to Wright directly if you can help.
wbagby45@aol.com
Thanks,
Randy Hicks
56 100M
From jerry adams <cjerryadams at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 09:04:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Cold Air
Many of you have gone to great lengths to explain the
increase in apparent power of and engine when the air
becomes colder. HoYo said it best and simplest when
he stated one of the basic laws of Thermodynamics,
PV=nRT. It states that pressure and volume are
directly related to temperature, among other things.
Look at it this way. When air cools it becomes mare
dense. More dense air means more oxygen to burn fuel.
More fuel burned means more power. OR, normally
aspirated engines produce less power then turbocharged
or supercharged engine, everything else in the engine
being the same. Turbocharged/supercharged means more
air forced into the engine for greater fuel burn and
thus more power.
Simple.
Jerry
BN2
TR3 Crashed and Burned
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 13:19:28 EST
Subject: Car in the Woods
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 10:51:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
Cheers,
John
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>Was it just me, or did anyone else find themselves reading the entire article
>in Healey Marque on the New England 1000 trying to find out how the red
>Healey wound up off the road and buried in the weeds, only to be left with the
>mystery still unsolved?
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 14:03:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
On 12/10/03 10:19 AM, "Editorgary@aol.com" <Editorgary@aol.com> wrote:
> Was it just me, or did anyone else find themselves reading the entire article
> in Healey Marque on the New England 1000 trying to find out how the red
> Healey wound up off the road and buried in the weeds, only to be left with the
> mystery still unsolved?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 19:29:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
Mike B
59 BT7
>Was it just me, or did anyone else find themselves reading the entire article
>in Healey Marque on the New England 1000 trying to find out how the red
>Healey wound up off the road and buried in the weeds, only to be left with
>>the mystery still unsolved?
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 14:32:01 EST
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
BN2 & 59 Bugeye
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 15:45:36 EST
Subject: The Night Before Christmas - Healey Style
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the street,
Sat my poor little Healey, all covered with sleet.
The starter was frozen, the battery dead,
And clusters of icicles hung from the head.
Carol with the cables, and I with the crank,
Were trying to start it, but drawing a blank.
The best we could raise was a weak little clatter,
When what did our wandering eyeballs perceive,
But a fat little man you just wouldn't believe.
His cap was made up from a bundle of wire,
The tails of his coat were a crackling fire;
His eyes were like lightbulbs (and one didn't work);
The man was a real electrical jerk!
He opened the bonnet and started to poke,
Thus causing a short and a puff of blue smoke.
He crackled and sizzled, then giving a zap,
He fractured the damn distributor cap.
He walked to the back end and giving a thump,
He jammed up the points on my Lucas fuel pump.
And laying a finger aside of his nose,
He sizzled away while the two of us froze.
He sprang to his car, in a movement so smart,
We almost expected the damn thing to start.
The starter turned over, the engine roared out,
And over the clatter we heard Lucas shout;
"Out MG, Out SPRIDGET, Out HEALEY, and SPRITE,
Out LUCAS IGNITION this cold winter's night!"
And we heard him exclaim as skyward he roared,
"So long, crazy YANKEES! I'm powered by Ford!"
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all the Healey owners out there.
Rudy Streng & Carol Wetzel
Lenoir, NC
BN4, BT7
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 15:07:18 -0600
Subject: RE: Car in the Woods
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 12:19 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Car in the Woods
Was it just me, or did anyone else find themselves reading the entire
article
in Healey Marque on the New England 1000 trying to find out how the red
Healey wound up off the road and buried in the weeds, only to be left
with the
mystery still unsolved?
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 13:43:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 10:19 AM
Subject: Car in the Woods
> Was it just me, or did anyone else find themselves reading the entire
article
> in Healey Marque on the New England 1000 trying to find out how the red
> Healey wound up off the road and buried in the weeds, only to be left with
the
> mystery still unsolved?
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:38:42 EST
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:42:51 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: Cold Air
-skip-
N0040@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Sorry for the reference to 0F, and lbs./cu.ft too old to change my
> engineering units.
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:13:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Cold Air
Dave
tfsbj7@mindspring.com wrote:
> I think you meant Kelvin?... reference to zero Kelvin not
> Farenheit is the right way to do the calculations... PV=nRT
> (where T is in Kelvin)
>
> -skip-
>
>
> N0040@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>Sorry for the reference to 0F, and lbs./cu.ft too old to change my
>>engineering units.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Bob - BJ8
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 20:29:48 -0500
Subject: Re: The Night Before Christmas - Healey Style
At 03:45 PM 12/10/2003, you wrote:
>THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
>by Lucy Mae Globule
>The Steering Wheel newsletter
>Atlanta Region
>SCCA - December 1966
>
>'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the street,
>Sat my poor little Healey, all covered with sleet.
>The starter was frozen, the battery dead,
>And clusters of icicles hung from the head.
>Carol with the cables, and I with the crank,
>Were trying to start it, but drawing a blank.
>The best we could raise was a weak little clatter,
>When what did our wandering eyeballs perceive,
>But a fat little man you just wouldn't believe.
>His cap was made up from a bundle of wire,
>The tails of his coat were a crackling fire;
>His eyes were like lightbulbs (and one didn't work);
>The man was a real electrical jerk!
>
>He opened the bonnet and started to poke,
>Thus causing a short and a puff of blue smoke.
>He crackled and sizzled, then giving a zap,
>He fractured the damn distributor cap.
>He walked to the back end and giving a thump,
>He jammed up the points on my Lucas fuel pump.
>And laying a finger aside of his nose,
>He sizzled away while the two of us froze.
>He sprang to his car, in a movement so smart,
>We almost expected the damn thing to start.
>The starter turned over, the engine roared out,
>And over the clatter we heard Lucas shout;
>"Out MG, Out SPRIDGET, Out HEALEY, and SPRITE,
>Out LUCAS IGNITION this cold winter's night!"
>And we heard him exclaim as skyward he roared,
>"So long, crazy YANKEES! I'm powered by Ford!"
>
>Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all the Healey owners out there.
>Rudy Streng & Carol Wetzel
>Lenoir, NC
>BN4, BT7
>
>*
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:40:48 -0800
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
> Many have had better luck with the new "Hot Jet" or "Ceramic" coating on the
> exhaust headers. This was a "Hot" (pun intended) topic on the Triumph 6-Pack
> and the Sunbeam Tiger list. Some members on those lists had tried the wrap
> and in addition to the items mentioned on this list were not please with the
> cosmetic appearance after a while.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gary
Hi Gary,
I should have added that now on the 240Z, I simply run the painted mild steel
header. On the BN1, I had the stock manifold greatly "relieved" inside and Jet
Hot coated, which is inside and out. I can't say if that made a noticeable
power
advantage on the Healey as it was done in conjunction with several other mods.
One of those mods, which I highly recommend and is unseen for the concours
crowd,
was a Bill Bolton 23# flywheel. But that would be another thread ;-)
Bill Barnett
'53 BN1 #663
PS: Thanks Alan for the welding lesson!
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 18:08:06 -0800
Subject: differential
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:09:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 6 branch manifolds
Had my fly lightened to about the same weight by a local vintage racer.
Spools up very quickly. Amazing what a 4# reduction in the right places can
do huh? If one is doing other engine work and/or the engine is out of the
car it is well worth the $200 or so.
Keith Pennell
> GSFuqua1@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Many have had better luck with the new "Hot Jet" or "Ceramic" coating on
the
> > exhaust headers. This was a "Hot" (pun intended) topic on the Triumph
6-Pack
> > and the Sunbeam Tiger list. Some members on those lists had tried the
wrap
> > and in addition to the items mentioned on this list were not please with
the
> > cosmetic appearance after a while.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Gary
>
> Hi Gary,
>
> I should have added that now on the 240Z, I simply run the painted mild
steel
> header. On the BN1, I had the stock manifold greatly "relieved" inside
and Jet
> Hot coated, which is inside and out. I can't say if that made a
noticeable power
> advantage on the Healey as it was done in conjunction with several other
mods.
>
> One of those mods, which I highly recommend and is unseen for the concours
crowd,
> was a Bill Bolton 23# flywheel. But that would be another thread ;-)
>
> Bill Barnett
> '53 BN1 #663
>
> PS: Thanks Alan for the welding lesson!
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:10:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Cold Air
Although Rankine is an absolute temperature scale, it is not usable in the
Ideal Gas Law equation or in the Charles' Law equation for that matter. In
order to fit real experimental results the temps must be measured/expressed
in Kelvin.
Keith Pennell
Chem teacher of 36 years
> You can also do it in Rankine by adding 460 to the degrees F.
>
> Dave
>
> tfsbj7@mindspring.com wrote:
> > I think you meant Kelvin?... reference to zero Kelvin not
> > Farenheit is the right way to do the calculations... PV=nRT
> > (where T is in Kelvin)
> >
> > -skip-
> >
> >
> > N0040@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Sorry for the reference to 0F, and lbs./cu.ft too old to change my
> >>engineering units.
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>Bob - BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 22:24:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Low Low Tech Toe-in Tool
I have used a similar thing that has worked well for many years. It is
about a 6 ft lenth of 1x2 with two gutter spikes through it at the
approximate distance between the centers of both front tires. Place a strip
of masking tape across both treads on the front of the tires as close to
axle height as possible. Have an assistant hold one end lightly piercing a
tape and make a hole in the other yourself. Roll the car forward or
backward until the tape is axle height on the back side. Assistant puts his
point in the same hole and you check to see where your point is relative to
your tape hole. As Rich points out proper adjustment has your point
1/16-1/8 inside the mark on the back side or outside the mark on the front
side. I prefer 1/16.
While we are on this, I heard once that the setting should be different
depending on whether a car's tie rods are forward of the front axles or aft
of them. The idea being that as a car tracks down the road the front end
opens up slightly over the static setting. Anyone ever hear of anything
like this?
Keith Pennell
> I have been using a bent curtain rod (the flat kind
> that one side slides into the other) for many years,
> works just fine.
> I simply measure and mark the front (with eraseable
> marker) where the large on overlaps the other then
> measure the back and look for the mark, easy to see
> 1/16"-1/8".
> Sounds cheap, looks cheap, works great.
>
> __ __
> | |
> |__________________|
>
> By the way, it was great cruising weather yesterday
> here in South Texas.
> Rich
> 57BN4
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 14:27:55 +1100
Subject: Having Fun
Just think of how much fun we could all have if the current thread was
about driving fake 100Ss equipped with Texas Coolers in colder air.
All of this make me think about the temperature Fahrenheit, Celsius,
Kelvin and Rankine in close proximity to the so fitted Texas Coolers.
Any drongo knows that British cars always drive better when it's cooler.
That's when they feel most at home.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 16:59:58 -0800
Subject: Car in the Woods
Following is the response that I received from Glenn Hudson, Editor of Healey
Marque Magizine:
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: Spridgetracer@aol.com
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: Car In The Woods
Len,
I haven't been yet, but I did get one today. Here was my response. Feel free
to post it. It was may fault:
John,
I just realized that I edited out that part of the story...I think. That
accident happened three years ago during his first run at the New England
1000. He sent me a story that was really, really long, and I edited out some
of the stuff that led up to this year's run. I must have accidentally omitted
that part, or I thought I was going to address it in a caption with the photo
and I didn't.
Either way, my bad. Feel free to spread the word. I'll run a correction in
the February issue.
Glenn
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 21:35:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Cold Air
Why does it matter if we use English units or SI units as long as the
units are consistent throughout the calculation. Help me understand.
The gas constant for air "R" = 1718 Ft-Lb/slug- degree Rankine
or
The gas constant for air "R" =287N-m/Kg- degree Kelvin
Curve fits have been done for both English & metric units.
It appears that the equations work the same with either units?
Dave
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Although Rankine is an absolute temperature scale, it is not usable in the
> Ideal Gas Law equation or in the Charles' Law equation for that matter. In
> order to fit real experimental results the temps must be measured/expressed
> in Kelvin.
>
> Keith Pennell
> Chem teacher of 36 years
>
>
>
>>You can also do it in Rankine by adding 460 to the degrees F.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>tfsbj7@mindspring.com wrote:
>>
>>>I think you meant Kelvin?... reference to zero Kelvin not
>>>Farenheit is the right way to do the calculations... PV=nRT
>>>(where T is in Kelvin)
>>>
>>>-skip-
>>>
>>>
>>>N0040@aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Sorry for the reference to 0F, and lbs./cu.ft too old to change my
>>>>engineering units.
>>>>
>>>>Regards,
>>>>Bob - BJ8
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 15:48:54 -0800
Subject: Fw: Car In The Woods
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: Spridgetracer@aol.com
To: thehartnetts@earthlink.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: Car In The Woods
Len,
I haven't been yet, but I did get one today. Here was my response. Feel free
to post it. It was may fault:
John,
I just realized that I edited out that part of the story...I think. That
accident happened three years ago during his first run at the New England
1000. He sent me a story that was really, really long, and I edited out some
of the stuff that led up to this year's run. I must have accidentally omitted
that part, or I thought I was going to address it in a caption with the photo
and I didn't.
Either way, my bad. Feel free to spread the word. I'll run a correction in
the February issue.
Glenn
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 21:51:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Low Low Tech Toe-in Tool
More likely is that the flex in the suspension bushings will allow the
wheels to pivot back slightly & cause toe out, thus the need for a bit
of toe in.
I do know that front wheel drive cars usually use a bit of toe out to
offset the forward thrust of the wheels. I think it is probably a matter
of what works for the individual car.
Dave Russell
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Rich,
>
> While we are on this, I heard once that the setting should be different
> depending on whether a car's tie rods are forward of the front axles or aft
> of them. The idea being that as a car tracks down the road the front end
> opens up slightly over the static setting. Anyone ever hear of anything
> like this?
>
> Keith Pennell
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 23:06:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Car in the Woods
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 21:09:11 +1000
Subject: Re: OAC113 coupe
I wonder if this is the site you're looking for?
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/Pages/AH50-woolmer-series.html
ONX113 (OAC1 was a later coupe) was then (July 2002) in the Arthur Carter
collection, I assume in the UK, but I guess may have been sold on as the
article says some cars may be for sale. I wonder if DMH would have approved
of the white interior? (On second thoughts, looking again at the b&w photo
in "The Specials, the interior does appear to be light in colour!)
Incidentally, what or where is the Cape?
Cheers
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
The piece is
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 4:52 AM
Subject: OAC113 coupe
> Isn't there a web site that has DMH's coupe and the current owner on it? I
> just came across some very nice sharp color photo's of it at the Cape.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 21:16:48 +1000
Subject: Coupes again
I should have looked harder further down that page - OAC1 appears as well,
owned (then) by Mike Darcy. First photo I've seen of that car.
Peter
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 06:28:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Low Low Tech Toe-in Tool
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
Cc: "Rich Holman" <rich_holman@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: Low Low Tech Toe-in Tool
> Keith,
> I can speculate that any play or flex on rear rods would tend to cause
> toe out. The tires will always try to to toe out due to rolling drag &
> braking forces. I would think that the same would apply to front rods
> though.
>
> More likely is that the flex in the suspension bushings will allow the
> wheels to pivot back slightly & cause toe out, thus the need for a bit
> of toe in.
>
> I do know that front wheel drive cars usually use a bit of toe out to
> offset the forward thrust of the wheels. I think it is probably a matter
> of what works for the individual car.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
> > Rich,
> >
> > While we are on this, I heard once that the setting should be different
> > depending on whether a car's tie rods are forward of the front axles or
aft
> > of them. The idea being that as a car tracks down the road the front
end
> > opens up slightly over the static setting. Anyone ever hear of anything
> > like this?
> >
> > Keith Pennell
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 08:35:36 -0500
Subject: Color questions
Thanks, Allen
-56 BN2/M 229089
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 12:27:19 -0600
Subject: Scary Lucas electrics story involving airplane
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e32/forum.php?postid=4331841&page=1
Graham
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 18:11:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Cold Air
Have never seen the constant you quote for the English unit. Not saying it
is wrong, just have never seen it. In all my years in dealing with V and T
relationship and the Ideal Gas equation, the statement always specifies
Kelving temperature. Thus, my position about Kelvin only.
If you are saying that experimental data verifies the use of the Rankine
scale, then I guess Rankine is valid.
Keith
> Keith,
>
> Why does it matter if we use English units or SI units as long as the
> units are consistent throughout the calculation. Help me understand.
>
> The gas constant for air "R" = 1718 Ft-Lb/slug- degree Rankine
> or
> The gas constant for air "R" =287N-m/Kg- degree Kelvin
>
> Curve fits have been done for both English & metric units.
> It appears that the equations work the same with either units?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Keith Pennell wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > Although Rankine is an absolute temperature scale, it is not usable in
the
> > Ideal Gas Law equation or in the Charles' Law equation for that matter.
In
> > order to fit real experimental results the temps must be
measured/expressed
> > in Kelvin.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
> > Chem teacher of 36 years
> >
> >
> >
> >>You can also do it in Rankine by adding 460 to the degrees F.
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >>tfsbj7@mindspring.com wrote:
> >>
> >>>I think you meant Kelvin?... reference to zero Kelvin not
> >>>Farenheit is the right way to do the calculations... PV=nRT
> >>>(where T is in Kelvin)
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 16:18:40 -0800
Subject: Dipstick
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 19:58:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Dipstick
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 7:18 PM
Subject: Dipstick
> On an early 3000 motor is there a dust cover on the dipstick. I finally
> located a used dipstick for my 1960BT7 but there is not
> a dust cover, just a flat washer brazed on. Moss shows a dustcover
> which is an available part (dipsticks are not available new).
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 18:03:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Scary Lucas electrics story involving airplane
My brother used to fly Jetstreams for American Eagle
(American Airlines' commuter airline).
The Jetstream is a plane made by British Aerospace and
and uses Lucas Electronics & Avionics.
You may find this hard to believe, but he said the
Jetstream had this electrical fault where, if the bulb
on one specific engine warning light burned out, the
entire airplane's electrical system would shut down in
mid-flight.
He knew of one crew that this happened to, and he said
the crew was at 10,000 ft with no electrical power and
the turbines cut out (fuel cut off) , and they were
falling out of the sky. They scrambled for about a
minute or two, figured it out (thankfully), and yanked
a bulb from another warning light out of the panel and
put it in where the burned out bulb was and managed to
get the turbines restarted... meanwhile all of the
passengers almost had heart attacks!
My brother hated flying the Jetstream!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com> wrote:
> Found on a BMW site ... Look at the photo!
>
>
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e32/forum.php?postid=4331841&page=1
>
> Graham
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 15:13:11 +1100
Subject: RE: OAC113 coupe
Needless to say that I for one covet both ONX 113 and OAC 1 rather
greatly.
However it's not correct to say that OAC 1 was a later coupe when it was
built around the same time as ONX 113. Both cars were originally fitted
with 100S running gear but OAC 1 was later equipped with a six-cylinder
not longer after the BN3/1 was made into a six-cylinder.
It's also interesting to know that when OAC 1 was sold in 1974/75 the
new owner had the coupe panels removed as he wanted a roadster. Those
panels ended up here in Australia and were going to be fitted to a BN1.
A chassis and was modified to resemble the BN3 but the project was never
finished. The panels were eventually reunited with the correct car.
In total there were only four coupe body Austin-Healeys built.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Linn [mailto:greylinn@ozemail.com.au]
Sent: Thursday, 11 December 2003 10:09 PM
To: Freese, Ken
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: OAC113 coupe
G'day Ken
I wonder if this is the site you're looking for?
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/Pages/AH50-woolmer-series.html
ONX113 (OAC1 was a later coupe) was then (July 2002) in the Arthur
Carter collection, I assume in the UK, but I guess may have been sold on
as the article says some cars may be for sale. I wonder if DMH would
have approved of the white interior? (On second thoughts, looking again
at the b&w photo in "The Specials, the interior does appear to be light
in colour!)
Incidentally, what or where is the Cape?
Cheers
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl coupe
The piece is
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 4:52 AM
Subject: OAC113 coupe
> Isn't there a web site that has DMH's coupe and the current owner on
> it? I just came across some very nice sharp color photo's of it at the
> Cape. Ken Freese 65 BJ8
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 20:53:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Scary Lucas electrics story involving airplane
Prior to retirement, I flew over a million miles to 40 plus countries.
Survived airplane fires, barely missed the fatal DC-10 crash in Chicago
(May of '79), and countless other flight problems.
I must tell you . . . . . this one is hard to believe!
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Graham -
>
>My brother used to fly Jetstreams for American Eagle
>(American Airlines' commuter airline).
>
>The Jetstream is a plane made by British Aerospace and
>and uses Lucas Electronics & Avionics.
>
>You may find this hard to believe, but he said the
>Jetstream had this electrical fault where, if the bulb
>on one specific engine warning light burned out, the
>entire airplane's electrical system would shut down in
>mid-flight.
>
>He knew of one crew that this happened to, and he said
>the crew was at 10,000 ft with no electrical power and
>the turbines cut out (fuel cut off) , and they were
>falling out of the sky. They scrambled for about a
>minute or two, figured it out (thankfully), and yanked
>a bulb from another warning light out of the panel and
>put it in where the burned out bulb was and managed to
>get the turbines restarted... meanwhile all of the
>passengers almost had heart attacks!
>
>My brother hated flying the Jetstream!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
from it.
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 22:01:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: transporting A-Healey cross country
He moved my A-Healey from Portland to Socal and my
hardtop from Philadelphia to Socal.
Regards, Franck
P.S. this message has no commercial purpose and I
cannot be held liable for anything. This is a friendly
and free advise with no contractual responsibility. I
need a lawyer to finish this ...! People can be scary
out there!
__________________________________
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
From "Larry Dickstein" <lonejacklarry at kcweb.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 06:39:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Scary Lucas electrics story involving airplane
An aside to aviation: you need both noise and fumes to fly; if one is
missing, you ain't flying. Additionally, there are three worthless things
in aviation:
1. The altitude above you
2. The runway behind you and
3. The airspeed you don't have.
Obligatory Healey content: the snow is melting and it is supposed to be in
the high 40's this weekend....the season is not over yet.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
> Hmmm,
>
> Prior to retirement, I flew over a million miles to 40 plus countries.
> I must tell you . . . . . this one is hard to believe!
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 08:39:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Scary Lucas electrics story involving airplane
You forgot a fourth thing:
Fuel in the truck.
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 11:50:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Steer box overhaul and repair
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 13:51:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Oil pan weld up and question
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 22:26:40 -0600
Subject: Hydraulic line flares
Tim Davis BN7
From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 23:24:43 -0500
Subject: dash board spacers - BJ8
Ryan
BJ7 / BJ8 dash
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 21:52:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Steer box overhaul and repair
One question: How much oil does the steering box take? I think mine
was dry. I could not find any reference in the books other than the
weight of the oil. I squirted in about a pint (a guess). But it did
not fill up all the way.
Any clue?
Thanks,
Brian N.
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 22:17:26 -0800
Subject: Was brake lines
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Get holiday tips for festive fun.
http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 23:15:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: dash board spacers - BJ8
The reason your BJ7 has a gap on the mounts to the BJ8
dash board is because the scuttle top piece for a BJ7
is similar in set up to the BT7, where as the BJ8 has
a slightly different scuttle top piece (because of the
different dash).
You don't need spacers on a BJ8, but it doesn't
suprise me you need them to put a BJ8 dash on a BJ7.
I'd put the wood spacers in.
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Big Sixer <healey@ledwith.com> wrote:
> One last time - any idea whether there should be
> spacers between the dashboard
> mounts and the chassis? I seem to have about 1/2 "
> on either side?
> Unless I hear otherwise, I'll probably make some
> simple wooden pieces to fit
> in the gap
>
> Ryan
> BJ7 / BJ8 dash
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at nycap.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 08:19:52 -0500
Subject: 50th Anniversary site
If this has already been posted on this list I must have missed it and I'm
sorry for the repost ! This appears to have
been a 50th Anniversary site, so it's quite possible that everyone has seen it
already, but if not there are some great
pictures on it.
Paul Woolmer's Special & Historic Cars.
AH50 Link
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/Pages/AH50-woolmer-series.html
Home Page
http://www.austin-healey-club.com/
______________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 08:25:07 -0500
Subject: Re: dash board spacers - BJ8
Funny...that BJ7 dash and instruments are still with me. It hangs as an
ornament and a reminder of my youth in my barn. Right next to my
BJ8....Dad's car.
Good luck with the conversion.
Dave
BJ8
TR4A
Mustang Cobra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Big Sixer" <healey@ledwith.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 11:24 PM
Subject: dash board spacers - BJ8
> One last time - any idea whether there should be spacers between the
dashboard
> mounts and the chassis? I seem to have about 1/2 " on either side?
> Unless I hear otherwise, I'll probably make some simple wooden pieces to
fit
> in the gap
>
> Ryan
> BJ7 / BJ8 dash
from Moss or Classic Auto Lubes (the Classic Auto Lubes guy posts to the
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 08:14:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Steer box overhaul and repair
Don't know exactly how much I used, about 2/3 of the 500 ml bottle it came
in, fill to the top of the box basically,
Good Luck and happy healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian N" <brian@beachcitygas.com>
To: "joe mulqueen" <joemulqueen@yahoo.com>; "Healeys"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: Steer box overhaul and repair
> Thanks for the details. This project is around the corner for me, I am
> sure.
>
> One question: How much oil does the steering box take? I think mine
> was dry. I could not find any reference in the books other than the
> weight of the oil. I squirted in about a pint (a guess). But it did
> not fill up all the way.
>
> Any clue?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian N.
From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 10:37:09 EST
Subject: Re: OAC113 coupe
Lony Taylor
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 10:41:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Steer box overhaul and repair
Brian N wrote:
> Thanks for the details. This project is around the corner for me, I am
> sure.
>
> One question: How much oil does the steering box take? I think mine
> was dry. I could not find any reference in the books other than the
> weight of the oil. I squirted in about a pint (a guess). But it did
> not fill up all the way.
>
> Any clue?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian N.
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 09:55:41 -0800
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary site
I'd be happy to take some off his hands.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Kollar" <wkollar@nycap.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 5:19 AM
Subject: 50th Anniversary site
> I picked this link up on the Modified Healey List. Generally reposting
>someone else's email without permission is
> taboo, but I guess I'll bear the shame this one time.
>
> If this has already been posted on this list I must have missed it and I'm
>sorry for the repost ! This appears to
have
> been a 50th Anniversary site, so it's quite possible that everyone has seen
>it already, but if not there are some
great
> pictures on it.
>
>
> Paul Woolmer's Special & Historic Cars.
>
> AH50 Link
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com/Pages/AH50-woolmer-series.html
>
>
> Home Page
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com/
From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 14:57:22 EST
Subject: Re: OAC113 coupe
I just checked with Gerry Coker and he confirms that OAC 1 was first built
with a standard 100 chassis. The change to the 6 cylinder engine occurred
almost immediately and the car was used for brake testing. ONX 113 had a 100-S
engine and brakes from new.
Bill Emerson
Author, "The Healey Book"
(see pages 106 to 109)
From "Frakes, Jim" <JimF at frakes-eng.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 08:12:49 -0500
Subject: Healey Video Sighting
I do not have the schedule of when it might be on again.
Jim Frakes
From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 08:32:26 -0500
Subject: Last Drive
Terry 100-M
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:31:08 -0500
Subject: Healey Video Sighting
This past week the Speed Channel has been showing the story of Jackie
Stewart. At about the nine minute mark he is shown driving, in an
apparent rallye, a Healey Silverstone. At about the 11 minute mark he
and wife are shown with a 100 and a few minutes later with either a 100
-6 or Mark I 3000.
I do not have the schedule of when it might be on again.
Jim Frakes
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
from eye surgery.
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:31:54 -0500
Subject: re: back on line with help
I was going to wait until I could handle this myself but thought I would
offer the opportunity for a King Dick jack before listing on ebay.
I have a King Dick SF B1077 jack in excellent condition which was
applicable for late BN1's and early BN2's, serial numbers: C. 227339 -
229079, part number 11B 5152. The jack is in concours condition.
Also, have an excellent used 100S head.
If interested in either of these please contact me off the list . Thanks.
Have a very happy holiday season.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 09:50:33 -0800
Subject: Looking for used Knock-off
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 10:06:54 -0800
Subject: Measuring Camber
From Mike <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 13:12:51 -0500
Subject: Healey Sighting
During the credits it also showed her washing the Healey in the
driveway. It also had references to being made in Canada. I was channel
flipping after watching UofL beat then #1 Florida and just swerved into
this show. I have never seen this one before or even heard of it. If you
have seen this before is the Healey always a part of the background in the
garage?
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
Mike Schneider
Your Grandfather's Workshop
Clock manufacture and repair
502-893-1719
mikebn2@win.net
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:54:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 12:06 PM
Subject: Measuring Camber
> Is there any easy way to check camber on a BN7 at home just to be sure
> it is not real far off? My car had some damage to the left front shock
> tower which was repaired long ago but I would like to see if I can do a
> quick check to be sure that the steering geometry is close to where it
> should be now. There was a good suggestion last week about using a
> laser pointer to adjust the toe in. Perhaps some smart person has
> devised a similar simple tool to check the camber??
> Ron
> 61BN7
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:02:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
http://www.jcw.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/EndecaControllerView?D=81uk7237t&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&firstSearch=1&catalogId=10101&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallany&Dn=100010101+111&Ntt=81uk7237t&tmplframe=EndecaCategoryView&langId=-1§ion=body&storeId=10101&Ntk=AllTextSearchGroup&ss=10101
DON'T buy this one ... I think Harbor Freight has them for $10-15, but I
couldn't find it on their website. Call Harbor Freight, and you'll be treated
to
about 18 catalogs/week for the rest of your life ;)
IF you have disc brakes, you can pull the front wheel and put a 2"
spacer (I use a 2" bolt) under the platform on the shock arm. This sets
the normal ride height for the front suspension (you may have to drop the
spring to do this, but you might just be able to jack the front suspension to
get the correct height). Set the level on the face of the rotor and read the
camber.
If you don't have disc brakes, you'll need to find a flat surface on the
drum, or backing plate, or something to anchor the level to that's orthogonal
(perpindicular) to the axle.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: Measuring Camber
> Is there any easy way to check camber on a BN7 at home just to be sure
> it is not real far off? My car had some damage to the left front shock
> tower which was repaired long ago but I would like to see if I can do a
> quick check to be sure that the steering geometry is close to where it
> should be now. There was a good suggestion last week about using a
> laser pointer to adjust the toe in. Perhaps some smart person has
> devised a similar simple tool to check the camber??
> Ron
> 61BN7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:55:38 -0600
Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Ed suggested Joe Way in Calif for sleeving but he does not do front calipers.
Any other quality shops out there?
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:13:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42496
What a difference!
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: Measuring Camber
> Is there any easy way to check camber on a BN7 at home just to be sure
> it is not real far off? My car had some damage to the left front shock
> tower which was repaired long ago but I would like to see if I can do a
> quick check to be sure that the steering geometry is close to where it
> should be now. There was a good suggestion last week about using a
> laser pointer to adjust the toe in. Perhaps some smart person has
> devised a similar simple tool to check the camber??
> Ron
> 61BN7
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:19:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
You can get a pretty good idea of camber by just placing a 24"
carpenters level vertically on the tire. Place it just forward of the
lower tire bulge where it meets the floor. Standard alignment will show
the tire just slightly tilted out at the top. About 1/16" on the bubble.
Nitpickers may wish to calculate the degrees more closely.
Dave Russell
BN2
Ron Fine wrote:
> Is there any easy way to check camber on a BN7 at home just to be sure
> it is not real far off? My car had some damage to the left front shock
> tower which was repaired long ago but I would like to see if I can do a
> quick check to be sure that the steering geometry is close to where it
> should be now. There was a good suggestion last week about using a
> laser pointer to adjust the toe in. Perhaps some smart person has
> devised a similar simple tool to check the camber??
> Ron
> 61BN7
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 14:27:49 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
Steve
In a message dated 12/14/2003 10:14:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mikebn2@win.net writes:
> Did anyone happen to see a program yesterday on public television
> called "Anything I can do"? It has a semi competent (and that may be a
> bit too generous) female showing how to build a set of screens for the
> living room. However, she is doing the building in a garage. In the back
> bay of the garage is what looks like a Healey Blue BJ7. It is definitely a
> Healey. The speculative part is the color. I am color challenged, to put
> it politically correct.
>
> During the credits it also showed her washing the Healey in the
> driveway. It also had references to being made in Canada. I was channel
> flipping after watching UofL beat then #1 Florida and just swerved into
> this show. I have never seen this one before or even heard of it. If you
> have seen this before is the Healey always a part of the background in the
> garage?
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHCA
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 14:47:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
The pistons may be rusted in place. I used compressed air to remove the
pistons in my calipers. If they are stuck it helps to break the stickiness
(the Brits say "stiction") by first pushing them deeper in their bores using a
C-clamp. Then, lubricate the exposed walls of the cylinders with brake fluid.
Once you can get them moving with the clamp, hold the inboard one in place
with the clamp so that it doesn't blow out, then use the compressed air to
blow out the outboard piston first. If you remove the inboard piston first,
you won't be able to build up air pressure behind the outboard piston. Be
sure to pad the space between the pistons with a cloth or piece of wood so
that no damage is done when the piston comes out. It will come out with a
POP!
It might also be necessary to use the C-clamp and compressed air alternately
to work the pistons in and out out a little bit at a time until you can
finally blow them out with the air.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Willis
To: Lists, Healey
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:55 PM
Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Hi listers,
I cannot get the pistons out of the front brake calipers. I would like to
send
them off for rebuild. Any suggestions?
Ed suggested Joe Way in Calif for sleeving but he does not do front
calipers.
Any other quality shops out there?
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 14:42:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Chatter magazines
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "Robert Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:49:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
To: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
> Ron,
>
> You can get a pretty good idea of camber by just placing a 24"
> carpenters level vertically on the tire. Place it just forward of the
> lower tire bulge where it meets the floor. Standard alignment will show
> the tire just slightly tilted out at the top. About 1/16" on the bubble.
> Nitpickers may wish to calculate the degrees more closely.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 15:54:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
--- Mike <mikebn2@win.net> wrote: << Did anyone happen to see a program
yesterday on public
television called "Anything I can do"? It has a semi competent (and that may
be a bit too
generous) female showing how to build a set of screens for the living room.
However, she is
doing the building in a garage. In the back bay of the garage is what looks
like a Healey Blue
BJ7. It is definitely a Healey. The speculative part is the color. I am
color challenged, to
put it politically correct. ... ... I have never seen this one before or even
heard of it. If
you have seen this before is the Healey always a part of the background in the
garage? Mike
Schneider Bluegrass AHCA >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 16:00:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott Willis
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:56 PM
To: Lists, Healey
Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Hi listers,
I cannot get the pistons out of the front brake calipers. I would like
to send
them off for rebuild. Any suggestions?
Ed suggested Joe Way in Calif for sleeving but he does not do front
calipers.
Any other quality shops out there?
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 16:01:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Sighting
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of SMickel950@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 2:28 PM
To: mikebn2@win.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Sighting
I caught an episode of the show a few weeks ago. She was making a bunch
of
different clock faces and installing store-bought clock works in the
garage.
The Healey was only partially shown in the background. I thought it was
darker
than Healey Blue.
Steve
In a message dated 12/14/2003 10:14:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
mikebn2@win.net writes:
> Did anyone happen to see a program yesterday on public television
> called "Anything I can do"? It has a semi competent (and that may be
a
> bit too generous) female showing how to build a set of screens for
the
> living room. However, she is doing the building in a garage. In the
back
> bay of the garage is what looks like a Healey Blue BJ7. It is
definitely a
> Healey. The speculative part is the color. I am color challenged, to
put
> it politically correct.
>
> During the credits it also showed her washing the Healey in the
> driveway. It also had references to being made in Canada. I was
channel
> flipping after watching UofL beat then #1 Florida and just swerved
into
> this show. I have never seen this one before or even heard of it. If
you
> have seen this before is the Healey always a part of the background in
the
> garage?
>
> Mike Schneider
> Bluegrass AHCA
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 23:10:18 +0100
Subject: Shelley Jack
The handle is missing, could anyone please give me the dimensions so
that I can make one. Is it made from a solid bar or from tubing?
TIA
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
from the bottom side of the speedo pot. Instead there is a wire coming
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 23:21:19 +0100
Subject: Speedometer
Has anyone seen something like this before? I cannot find anything in
my litterature about this and wonder if it is a modification or perhaps
an original feature that only ran for a short period. Unfortunately I
do not have a website where I can post an image but if anyone is
interested and knows something, I would be pleased to mail an image
offlist.
TIA
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 14:40:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Ron,
>
> You can get a pretty good idea of camber by just placing a 24"
> carpenters level vertically on the tire. Place it just forward of the
> lower tire bulge where it meets the floor. Standard alignment will
> show the tire just slightly tilted out at the top. About 1/16" on the
> bubble.
> Nitpickers may wish to calculate the degrees more closely.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2
>
> Ron Fine wrote:
>
>> Is there any easy way to check camber on a BN7 at home just to be
>> sure it is not real far off? My car had some damage to the left
>> front shock tower which was repaired long ago but I would like to see
>> if I can do a quick check to be sure that the steering geometry is
>> close to where it should be now. There was a good suggestion last
>> week about using a laser pointer to adjust the toe in. Perhaps some
>> smart person has devised a similar simple tool to check the camber??
>> Ron
>> 61BN7
From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 19:33:30 -0500
Subject: re: BN1 service manual
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 16:59:44 -0800
Subject: lights
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 20:33:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Michael Salter wrote:
>Hi Scott,
>If the pistons are really rusted in compressed air may not be sufficient
>to remove them. If this case I would recommend the brake line goes back
>up and use the master cylinder to pump the pistons out. Place a stout
>bar across where the disc would normally run to ensure that both are
>pressed almost all the way out before one comes out completely.
>There is no need to sleeve calipers because the smooth surface has to be
>on the piston which is where the seal runs. As long as the bores or seal
>groves are not severely damaged new pistons and seals in a clean caliper
>will be fine.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Scott Willis
>Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:56 PM
>To: Lists, Healey
>Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
>
>Hi listers,
>I cannot get the pistons out of the front brake calipers. I would like
>to send
>them off for rebuild. Any suggestions?
>
>Ed suggested Joe Way in Calif for sleeving but he does not do front
>calipers.
>Any other quality shops out there?
>
>Cheers,
>Scott
>Mashed BN7
From "Mr. Finespanner" <mrfinespanner at earthlink.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 20:43:28 -0600
Subject: flares
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 22:26:40 -0600
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
Subject: Hydraulic line flares
I just replaced my clutch Master cylinder and noticed the tubing flare on the
pressure side tubing has a concave flare, same as the supply flare from the
resevoir, but if you look into the threaded bores on the Master cylinder the
bottom of the supply port has a raised portion to fit the flare but the
pressure side doesn't, it is concave. This makes me think there should be a
convex flare on the pressure line to interface with the concave profile.
Should I have different flare on the pressure line? The wonton use of the
above bolded word is quite exciting, hopefully I have not offended anyone.
Tim Davis BN7
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 18:04:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Front Brake Caliper Work?
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 12:55:38 -0600
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Hi listers,
I cannot get the pistons out of the front brake
calipers..........
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed BN7
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 22:44:34 EST
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 00:15:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
Dave
Robert Poague wrote:
>Is there a similar method to "rough check" caster?
>Bob
>BJ7
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave & Marlene" <rusd@velocitus.net>
>To: "Ron Fine" <RonFineEsq@earthlink.net>
>Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 11:19 AM
>Subject: Re: Measuring Camber
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 01:10:00 EST
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 00:17:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
> Hi, Scott -
>
> The pistons may be rusted in place. I used compressed air to remove the
> pistons in my calipers. If they are stuck it helps to break the
stickiness
> (the Brits say "stiction") by first pushing them deeper in their bores
using a
> C-clamp. Then, lubricate the exposed walls of the cylinders with brake
fluid.
> Once you can get them moving with the clamp, hold the inboard one in place
> with the clamp so that it doesn't blow out, then use the compressed air to
> blow out the outboard piston first. If you remove the inboard piston
first,
> you won't be able to build up air pressure behind the outboard piston. Be
> sure to pad the space between the pistons with a cloth or piece of wood so
> that no damage is done when the piston comes out. It will come out with a
> POP!
>
> It might also be necessary to use the C-clamp and compressed air
alternately
> to work the pistons in and out out a little bit at a time until you can
> finally blow them out with the air.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Willis
> To: Lists, Healey
> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:55 PM
> Subject: Front Brake Caliper Work?
>
>
> Hi listers,
> I cannot get the pistons out of the front brake calipers. I would like
to
> send
> them off for rebuild. Any suggestions?
>
> Ed suggested Joe Way in Calif for sleeving but he does not do front
> calipers.
> Any other quality shops out there?
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed BN7
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 10:59:06 EST
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Work?
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 12:50:58 -0500
Subject: Healey prices
"1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062. Black
with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton chrome wires.
Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior. Perfect panel fit.
Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD FOR $64,625.00 by
Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive gearboxes,
they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they have classic lines
that just about shout "I'm a collectible English sports car" Beautifully
restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day long. 12-month prediction: We'll
see the first BJ8 break the $100.000 mark before 2005."
Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was interesting and
thought others might like to see it too. Any comments? Cheers, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:41:01 +0100
Subject: Fwd: Speedometer
>
>
> The speedometer in the BT7 Im currently working on has a feature that
> I never came across on a Healey speedo before. The reset for the
> tripmeter is not the usual small shaft with a turning knob coming out
> from the bottom side of the speedo pot. Instead there is a wire coming
> out from the back of the pot and the wire is bent forward and fastened
> with a small bracket to the bottom of the dashboard, where it is
> clearly visible. On the end of this wire there is a slightly bigger
> than usual turning knob attached, also clearly visible.
>
> Has anyone seen something like this before? I cannot find anything in
> my litterature about this and wonder if it is a modification or
> perhaps an original feature that only ran for a short period.
> Unfortunately I do not have a website where I can post an image but if
> anyone is interested and knows something, I would be pleased to mail
> an image offlist.
>
> TIA
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:42:13 +0100
Subject: Fwd: Front Brake Caliper Work?
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 13:22:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
:)
Actually, since I bought my own BJ7 almost 10 years ago, it's gratifying
to be acknowledged as a financial genius ...
:)
More seriously, when are Triumph TR6s going to join in this
appreciation? In size and performance, they're very similar to a Big
Healey, they don't overheat, they're much more rust-resistant (at least
the frames), they handle better (IMHO) and they're good looking (again
IMHO), though not as sensual as a Healey. (I am thoroughly biased as the
former owner of two TR6's.)
-Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 12:51 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Healey prices
Today I received the annual Hagerty newsletter and on page two under the
"What's it worth" section is the following;
"1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062.
Black with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton
chrome wires. Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior.
Perfect panel fit. Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD
FOR $64,625.00 by Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive
gearboxes, they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they
have classic lines that just about shout "I'm a collectible English
sports car" Beautifully restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day
long. 12-month prediction: We'll see the first BJ8 break the $100.000
mark before 2005."
Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was
interesting and thought others might like to see it too. Any comments?
Cheers, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 13:25:57 -0500
Subject: Healey prices
"1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062.
Black
with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton chrome
wires.
Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior. Perfect panel fit.
Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD FOR $64,625.00 by
Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive
gearboxes,
they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they have classic
lines
that just about shout "I'm a collectible English sports car" Beautifully
restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day long. 12-month prediction:
We'll
see the first BJ8 break the $100.000 mark before 2005."
Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was interesting
and
thought others might like to see it too. Any comments? Cheers, JL
<
James,
Automobile magazine had a 1966 BJ8(HBJ8L29107) in an article this last
month. It sold at RM Auctions in Monterey in August for $90,201! It was
solid Ice Blue over Blue leather interior with chrome wires and had a
professional restoration(who?).
I seem to remember discussion on the list that it was two determined
individuals with unlimited funds that were doing the bidding.
Anyway, it did sell for this amount and I think the $100,000 mark could be
coming this next year.
Scot
'66 BJ8
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 11:40:21 -0800
Subject: RE: Front Brake Caliper Work?
To get a stuck piston out, you can hook the caliper up to a master cylinder
and pump it up just like pumping the brakes. Connect the brake line to the
caliper and master cylinder, put fluid in the cylinder, pump the cylinder,
and the pistons will come loose. If one piston moves out more then the
other, use a block of wood and a clamp to hold it in place. One piston will
pop out of the caliper before the other; you use a pair of channel locks to
get the other out the rest of the way.
Good luck!
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 12:45:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 spark plug wires
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 16:03:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey prices
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Lea
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 12:51 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Healey prices
Today I received the annual Hagerty newsletter and on page two under the
"What's it worth" section is the following;
"1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062. Black
with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton chrome wires.
Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior. Perfect panel fit.
Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD FOR $64,625.00 by
Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive
gearboxes,
they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they have classic lines
that just about shout "I'm a collectible English sports car" Beautifully
restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day long. 12-month prediction:
We'll
see the first BJ8 break the $100.000 mark before 2005."
Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was interesting
and
thought others might like to see it too. Any comments? Cheers, JL
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "Vink, Graham" <vinkg at fleishman.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 15:25:55 -0600
Subject: Engine on tow vehicle for LBC won't warm up - MYSTERY SOLVED!!!
It was - the auto store had sold me a 180 degree thermostat, since it
would have been FAR TOO MUCH WORK for the counter guy to scroll down the
computer listings and find out which temp was OEM. The correct
thermostat was supposed to be 195.
So the old thermostat stuck open (too cool), the first new thermostat
was the wrong temp (too cool) and the second new thermostat was just
right (toasty warm heater).
-Graham
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:32:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know what
they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
value...do we?
When most of us on this list are all gone....
Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
Food for thought...
Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you pay
for your first Healey? The last?
Dave
$2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
$1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
$200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
select pieces)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: Healey prices
> The glowing description neglected to mention the requirement for a Texas
> Cooler or equivalent "to cruise easily at 70 mph all day long."
>
> :)
>
> Actually, since I bought my own BJ7 almost 10 years ago, it's gratifying
> to be acknowledged as a financial genius ...
>
> :)
>
> More seriously, when are Triumph TR6s going to join in this
> appreciation? In size and performance, they're very similar to a Big
> Healey, they don't overheat, they're much more rust-resistant (at least
> the frames), they handle better (IMHO) and they're good looking (again
> IMHO), though not as sensual as a Healey. (I am thoroughly biased as the
> former owner of two TR6's.)
>
> -Graham
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 12:51 PM
> To: List Healeys
> Subject: Healey prices
>
>
> Today I received the annual Hagerty newsletter and on page two under the
> "What's it worth" section is the following;
>
> "1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062.
> Black with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton
> chrome wires. Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior.
> Perfect panel fit. Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD
> FOR $64,625.00 by Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
>
> Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
> popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive
> gearboxes, they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they
> have classic lines that just about shout "I'm a collectible English
> sports car" Beautifully restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day
> long. 12-month prediction: We'll see the first BJ8 break the $100.000
> mark before 2005."
>
> Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was
> interesting and thought others might like to see it too. Any comments?
> Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:50:18 EST
Subject: Re: How long, etc. (was Healey prices)
$3100 (new) for a "standard" 3000MkI BN7, in 1959 (crashed, rebuilt,
traded-in)
$3600 (new) for a "deluxe" 3000MkII BT7, in 1962 (still have, recently
resurrected)
Dick Hosmer
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:47:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
Automobile magazine had a 1966 BJ8(HBJ8L29107) in an article this last
month. It sold at RM Auctions in Monterey in August for $90,201! It was
solid Ice Blue over Blue leather interior with chrome wires and had a
professional restoration(who?).
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:59:49 EST
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:07:58 EST
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
Last/current: 1954 BN-1 with 88,000 miles, typical rust and parked for 12
years. Paid $4500 in 2000.
Steve M.
In a message dated 12/15/2003 2:40:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
> Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you pay
> for your first Healey? The last?
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:18:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
I agree wholeheartedly. In response to the survey, first Healey was a 1966
Sprite bought in 1975 (my first car) for $500. Last Healey was my current
54 BN1 bought in 1999 in running (barely) and fairly complete and original
condition for $5500. For more info and pics go to:
http://www.geocities.com/glemon1234/world_of_cars_.html
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Healey prices
> Okay I gotta insert opinion again. Why I don't know as I'm sure to cause
> some kind of "discussion". Oh what the hell...
>
> Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
> cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know
what
> they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
> guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
> value...do we?
>
> When most of us on this list are all gone....
>
> Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
> first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
>
> Food for thought...
>
> Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
> for your first Healey? The last?
>
> Dave
> $2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
> $1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
> $200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
> select pieces)
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 2:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey prices
>
>
> > The glowing description neglected to mention the requirement for a Texas
> > Cooler or equivalent "to cruise easily at 70 mph all day long."
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Actually, since I bought my own BJ7 almost 10 years ago, it's gratifying
> > to be acknowledged as a financial genius ...
> >
> > :)
> >
> > More seriously, when are Triumph TR6s going to join in this
> > appreciation? In size and performance, they're very similar to a Big
> > Healey, they don't overheat, they're much more rust-resistant (at least
> > the frames), they handle better (IMHO) and they're good looking (again
> > IMHO), though not as sensual as a Healey. (I am thoroughly biased as the
> > former owner of two TR6's.)
> >
> > -Graham
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
> > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 12:51 PM
> > To: List Healeys
> > Subject: Healey prices
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: Adrian Boelen [mailto:boelena@sympatico.ca]
To: 'Tysonoxford@aol.com'
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:43:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
1998 paid $6000 for 59 MGA driver that didn't drive. Underwent full resto.
Surprisingly solid car. I got lucky.
2004 Paid $4000 for tree mashed 1960 BN7. Surprising there is little rust
but torn between taking apart or trying to do half way repair and drive. Car
sat 25ish years. No time for full resto and it's killing me not to run it.
What a thunder under the hood compaired to the MG's...My wife askes "WHAT'S
GOING ON?" everytime I fire it up with the exhaust off. What fun!
Cheers,
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Healey prices
> Okay I gotta insert opinion again. Why I don't know as I'm sure to cause
> some kind of "discussion". Oh what the hell...
>
> Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
> cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know
what
> they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
> guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
> value...do we?
>
> When most of us on this list are all gone....
>
> Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
> first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
>
> Food for thought...
>
> Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
> for your first Healey? The last?
>
> Dave
> $2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
> $1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
> $200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
> select pieces)
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vink, Graham" <vinkg@fleishman.com>
> To: "List Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 2:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Healey prices
>
>
> > The glowing description neglected to mention the requirement for a Texas
> > Cooler or equivalent "to cruise easily at 70 mph all day long."
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Actually, since I bought my own BJ7 almost 10 years ago, it's gratifying
> > to be acknowledged as a financial genius ...
> >
> > :)
> >
> > More seriously, when are Triumph TR6s going to join in this
> > appreciation? In size and performance, they're very similar to a Big
> > Healey, they don't overheat, they're much more rust-resistant (at least
> > the frames), they handle better (IMHO) and they're good looking (again
> > IMHO), though not as sensual as a Healey. (I am thoroughly biased as the
> > former owner of two TR6's.)
> >
> > -Graham
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Lea [mailto:clocks@midcoast.com]
> > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 12:51 PM
> > To: List Healeys
> > Subject: Healey prices
> >
> >
> > Today I received the annual Hagerty newsletter and on page two under the
> > "What's it worth" section is the following;
> >
> > "1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase II convertible, S/N HBJ8L/41062.
> > Black with red leather interior, black vinyl top. Aftermarket Dayton
> > chrome wires. Matching numbers. Excellent paint, chrome and interior.
> > Perfect panel fit. Fresh restoration by and expert, needs nothing. SOLD
> > FOR $64,625.00 by Christie's at Pebble Beach on August 17, 2003."
> >
> > Then the editor goes on to say "These 'Big Healey's' continue to soar in
> > popularity and value. With their 6-cylinder engines and over-drive
> > gearboxes, they can cruise easily at 70 mph all day long. Plus, they
> > have classic lines that just about shout "I'm a collectible English
> > sports car" Beautifully restored ones like this bring $60,000 all day
> > long. 12-month prediction: We'll see the first BJ8 break the $100.000
> > mark before 2005."
> >
> > Although I do not agree with everything said I though this was
> > interesting and thought others might like to see it too. Any comments?
> > Cheers, JL
> >
> > James Lea
> > Rockport Maine
> > 1962 BT7 II
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:37:36 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Speedometer
> I repost the following, since Ed at Just Brits has been nice enough to
> put a picture of the speedo in question on his site. So please take a
> look at the photo on www.justbrits.com under Various Articles, Magnus
> Karlssons Korner and tell me if you know anything about it or have seen
> such a speedo before.
> >
> > .
>
> >
> >
> > The speedometer in the BT7 Im currently working on has a feature that
> > I never came across on a Healey speedo before. The reset for the
> > tripmeter is not the usual small shaft with a turning knob coming out
> > from the bottom side of the speedo pot. Instead there is a wire coming
> > out from the back of the pot and the wire is bent forward and fastened
> > with a small bracket to the bottom of the dashboard, where it is
> > clearly visible. On the end of this wire there is a slightly bigger
> > than usual turning knob attached, also clearly visible.
> >
> > Has anyone seen something like this before? I cannot find anything in
> > my litterature about this and wonder if it is a modification or
> > perhaps an original feature that only ran for a short period.
> > Unfortunately I do not have a website where I can post an image but if
> > anyone is interested and knows something, I would be pleased to mail
> > an image offlist.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Magnus Karlsson
> > SWEDEN
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:46:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
At 05:32 PM 12/15/2003, you wrote:
>Okay I gotta insert opinion again. Why I don't know as I'm sure to cause
>some kind of "discussion". Oh what the hell...
>
>Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
>cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know what
>they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
>guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
>value...do we?
>
>When most of us on this list are all gone....
>
>Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
>first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
>
>Food for thought...
>
>Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
>involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you pay
>for your first Healey? The last?
>
>Dave
>$2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
>$1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
>$200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
>select pieces)
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:52:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
> In a message dated 12/15/2003 2:40:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
>
> > Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> > involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
> > for your first Healey? The last?
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 16:50:28 -0800
Subject: RE: Used Knockoffs
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:03:13 EST
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
Rick
San Diego
members.aol.com/wilko
From Rich Holman <rich_holman at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:25:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Survey Original Prices
Rich
.....San Antonio in June
__________________________________
Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:30:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
My next Healey was/is my BN6. I bought it from a neighbor who was
getting divorced for $10,000 in 1996. It didn't have a spot of rust and
was totally original with the exception of a racing screen and a roll
bar. I was going to vintage race it so I took it to a restorer I knew
and asked him to do a 25' paint job on it. He called me a couple of days
later and said, "Don't do it. This is the nicest unrestored Healey I've
ever seen." $80,000 later I had a gold concours car. It sttill only has
10,300 miles on it. That's total miles. We restored everything and we
replaced nothing except some battery cables that I paid way too much for.
My final Healey is a 1949 Healey Sportsmobile. It is coming together
slowly. It was literally totaled by an awful attempt at restoration by
the previous owner. The lesson here is please don't try to restore a
rare car if you have absolutely no idea what you are doing and can't
afford to do it right. We are slowly restoring this car piece by piece,
the hard way.
Bob Denton
Rich C wrote:
>First Healey: a '63 BJ7 bought in June 1974 for $1750 as is, drove it home
>despite rotten sills and a stuck valve. paid $19.95 for the head gasket set
>needed to remedy the valves over the counter at a Leyland dealer!
>Second Healey: a '67 BJ8 bought in Sept. 1974 for $2750 certified and
>drivable, though high mileage and tired.
>Third Healey: a '62 BT7 tricarb bought in July 1975 for $3250 c/w factory
>hardtop, orig. soft top and interior, fresh rebuilt engine, bondo in the
>doglegs and poor paint.
>Many Healeys and parts cars later, current Healey a '54 BN1 bought in August
>2000 for $5000 as a project in a thousand pieces but all there, low mileage,
>most of original interior very useable. Sitting on the "some day" list.
>Rich Chrysler
>
>Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
>
>
>
>
>>In a message dated 12/15/2003 2:40:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>>dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
>>>involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
>>>
>>>
>pay
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:27:51 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey prices
From Rick Swain <grain at auracom.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 21:28:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Survey, was Healey prices
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 21:08:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
for your first Healey? The last?
Dave
$2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
$1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
$200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
select pieces)
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:10:42 -0800
Subject: Survey, was Healey prices
First Healey bought: 1960 BN7, new, in Paris, France for $2900 (sold it to
get a high performance Corvette in 1966...dumb move)
Second Healey: 1960 BT7, bought in 1970 for $750, unrestored, original,
still own it, still unrestored, original
Third Healey: 1960 Bug-Eye race car, bought in 1970, raced it 4 years in
SCCA West Coast races, sold it to build a SCCA C Sedan
Fourth Healey: 1960 Bug-eye, restored and sold it, 1978
Fifth Healey, 1960 Bug-eye, restored it to a street legal, semi-race car,
and sold it 1985
Sixth Healey: 1960 BN7, bought it in 1990, restored it and sold it in 1999
Seventh Healey: 1961 BN7 MK2, bought in 1994, restored it, and still have it
Eighth Healey: 1962 BT7 MK2, bought in 1994, restored it, and still have it
Ninth Healey: 1961 BN7 MK2, bought in 2001, just starting the restoration,
It will be sold when finished
Do you think I'm addicted to Healeys?
John Snyder
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:46:01 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 spark plug wires
Holding dist cap with coil wire socket pointing up, looking at exterior of
cap:
Outside, L to R: 3 - 5 - 1 - 4
Raised portion, L to R: 6 - coil - 2
Do you have a spark? When you disconnect the coil wire from the coil and
crank, do you get a spark jumping the gap? If no spark, suggest problem with
primary circuit. Use a test lamp or 12v light bulb to make sure you have
juice from the ignition switch to the coil.
If your distributor has been removed, make sure it's not 180 degrees out of
alignment. With the crank notch aligned with the pointer and the #1 piston
at TDC on the compression stroke, you should feel slop in the rockers for #1
and see the piston at the top thru the spark plug hole. At this point the
dist. rotor should point at the #1 cylinder. If this is all true and you're
getting a spark, you should be running. If the dist is 180 out, you
definitely won't run.
HTH.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>
> I recently replaced the spark plug wires on my BJ8 and now it doesn't want to
> start
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:44:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Survey Original Prices
Currently:
1967 BJ8 - paid $11,500 18-19 years ago (was a good, low-mileage
5-footer at the time).
1956 BN2 100M - paid $10,000 about 5 years ago (running, solid, no
hood or windows, some repaired front shroud damage, strong engine)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:00:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Prices
Not sure I got a good deal, but I sure like the car and I didn't want to go
another year before finding a good two-seater. Plan on keeping the car
forever and probably putting some speed equipt on it.
2) My neighbor bought a red / black BN1 also in So Calif for $24,000 a few
months ago and it's a few-year old, well-kept frame-off resto. It's a
helluva a car for the money. Helps to buy at the bottom of the market.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 21:59:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
First: 1959 100/6, purchased Summer of Love (1969) for $600.
Last: 1956 100, purchased April 1974, $400 for 2 !
Kent
'56 100 BN2
From "Michael Shepard" <shepard7107 at msn.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:02:56 -0500
Subject: AH price survey
Michael Shepard
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:08:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Survey / Healey prices
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:41:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey prices--Survey--From a New Owner
1974--Bot 1969 MGB for $1800. Sold in 1976 for $1750
1976--Bot 1962? Sprite MKII for $250. Sold in 1977 for $350.
1977--Bot 1969 Cortina GT for $700. Sold in 1978 for $500.
1993--Bot 1979 Triumph Spitfire for $1300. Sold in 2003 for $5400.
1994--Inherited (and given to my son) 1959 Bugeye Sprite.
Sold 1997 for $3500.
1995--Bot for daughter 1963 Consul Capri for $3700.
Sold 2000 for $5000.
1996--Bot 1965 Triumph Spitfire for $500. Sold 2000 for $5000.
2003--Bot 1960 Austin Healey BT7 for $20,000. Still have.
The gap in LBC ownership was between the time our kids were born and
when they started driving.
The upgrade to the BT7 was after they were out of college and all the
bills were paid.
Brian N.
Capitola, CA
1960 BT7 http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
1965 Triumph Spitfire http://www.beachcitygas.com/ocmsrzr1.jpg
1959 Bugeye http://www.beachcitygas.com/bugeye.jpg
1963 Consul Capri http://www.beachcitygas.com/Capri3_m.jpg
1979 Triumph Spitfire http://www.beachcitygas.com/79tsr.jpg
2001 PT Cruiser http://www.beachcitygas.com/ptsta2.jpg
1949 Plymouth Woodie http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/03wow1.jpg
1949 Seagraves http://www.beachcitygas.com/sg2big.jpg
(this last one is not mine, but just for fun, since Healey people like
roadsters)
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:43:03 EST
Subject: healey prices
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 19:48:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey prices--Survey--From a New Owner (corrrected Bugeye
1974--Bot 1969 MGB for $1800. Sold in 1976 for $1750
1976--Bot 1962? Sprite MKII for $250. Sold in 1977 for $350.
1977--Bot 1969 Cortina GT for $700. Sold in 1978 for $500.
1993--Bot 1979 Triumph Spitfire for $1300. Sold in 2003 for $5400.
1994--Inherited (and given to my son) 1959 Bugeye Sprite.
Sold 1997 for $3500.
1995--Bot for daughter 1963 Consul Capri for $3700.
Sold 2000 for $5000.
1996--Bot 1965 Triumph Spitfire for $500. Sold 2000 for $5000.
2003--Bot 1960 Austin Healey BT7 for $20,000. Still have.
The gap in LBC ownership was between the time our kids were born and
when they started driving.
The upgrade to the BT7 was after they were out of college and all the
bills were paid.
Brian N.
Capitola, CA
1960 BT7 http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
1965 Triumph Spitfire http://www.beachcitygas.com/ocmsrzr1.jpg
1959 Bugeye http://www.beachcitygas.com/bugeye1.jpg
1963 Consul Capri http://www.beachcitygas.com/Capri3_m.jpg
1979 Triumph Spitfire http://www.beachcitygas.com/79tsr.jpg
2001 PT Cruiser http://www.beachcitygas.com/ptsta2.jpg
1949 Plymouth Woodie http://www.beachcitygas.com/49plymouth/03wow1.jpg
1949 Seagraves http://www.beachcitygas.com/sg2big.jpg
(this last one is not mine, but just for fun, since Healey people like
roadsters)
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:56:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
1st: '63 BJ7, bought new in '63, approx $3000. traded in on Ford Galaxie
(big mistake)
2nd: '56 BN2, $300 in 1964, sold for $400 in 1965
3rd: '55 BN1, $800 in 1976. Now my vintage racer.
4th: '62 BT7 Tricarb, $1200 in 1979, fixed up, sold for $11,000 in 1987
5th: 63 BJ7, $1000 in '1981, fixed up, sold for $7000
6th: 59 BN7, $2000 in 1985, restored in '87, Concours bronze in '91,
reliable driver since. A real keeper.
7th: '58 BN6, $5500 in 1990, restored in 1964 to rally rep. Another keeper.
8th '56 BN2, basket case in 1998. undergoing slow ground-up restoration.
Jim
> Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
> for your first Healey? The last?
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 20:53:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:32:42 -0500
From: "David Masucci" <dmasucci@radiantsoundworks.com>
Subject: Re: Healey prices
.....Maybe these prices are inevitable. ......Can I
take a survey? What is the length of time that each
of us has been involved in or owned Healeys....
__________________________________
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 23:04:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
The Sprites.... whew... to many to count... love affairs with two box
sprites... restored them for my boys... Still have a bugeye I bought in 86
for 2000 sold in 87 for 2800 bought back for 3200 in 89.... want to sell it
for $6500... it was my Ex's car.... no emotional attachment... it doesn't
have tenure...find it a good home...
Keith
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:02:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: New Front Shroud Mk III wings
I thought you would like to know that I just received
a new set of MkIII wings from AH spares.
I have to say the quality of these is a vast
improvement to the wings I bought from M*** about 10
years ago. The lettering is very clear, distict and
uniform... which on the M*** they are pretty poor.
I don't know if they would pass concours muster or how
close they are to an original set (I've never had an
original set on my car), but the wings are one of the
nicest reproductions I've seen out there.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:25:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey prices
British cars I've owned:
1st car: 1979 MGB bought in 1982 for $4,000. Sold it
in 1985 for $4,000 to pay for my Healey (worth every
penny)
2nd car: 1964 BJ8 bought in 1985 for $3,200. Was a
solid runner but needed a restoration, which I did my
self over a 6 month period. I still own this car, it
is with me in Hong Kong. The car is a 10 footer and
is probably due sometime in the next five years for
its second and final restoration.
3rd car: 1953 BN1 bought in 2000 for $12,500 from
ebay. The car is a very solid runner and is a 10
footer. Chassis, frame & motor are rock solid like
new. It needs a little body work, but won't do it
until it needs repainting. I got a great deal on
this car.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
> > Can I take a survey? What is the length of time
> that each of us has been
> > involved in or owned Healeys and other British
> sports cars? What did you
> pay
> > for your first Healey? The last?
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 06:40:44 +0000
Subject: Auction vs. Private Sale (was "Re: Healey prices")
It appears that nice big Healeys sell for WAY more at auction that via
private sale, so why would you (or anyone) sell one privately? You
mentioned having sold several within the last year alone, and I'd be
interested in some pros and cons from someone with considerable, recent
experience. Thanks.
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>Reply-To: GSFuqua1@aol.com
>To: SPAULSON1@compuserve.com, clocks@midcoast.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Healey prices
>Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:59:49 EST
>
>I have bought and sold several in the past year. Some
>privately and some at auction. The venue makes a big difference and so
>does the
>reputation (if any) of the seller. Not to mention the resources available
>to
>the buyer.
>
>Gary Fuqua
>Branson, Missouri
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 06:33:16 -0500
Subject: Healey prices
Managed to get #2 in the summer of 1967 (Red/Black interior) in Rockford (same
dealer) while "negotiating" with the government regarding how I should serve
our country. Don't have that number, wish I did. It was one of the last
Healeys in U.S.
Entered the U. S. Navy in late '67, lost that Healey to a family sedan in
1970, was "without" until February 1977 when I got HBJ8L/39981 (BRG/BLK).
Lost her in a winter storm in Chicago (Overnight, parked on the street, ice,
crunched by means of an Olds).
A brief fling with a Bugeye (AN5L/11488) from Rich Chrysler, Canada, soothed
my move to North Carolina in 1979. Then, nothing.
Until 1996, when I acquired my lovely wife, wonderful Wanda and we got
HBJ8L/40045 (orig. Old English White/BLK, then Silver !?). New on Dec. 15,
1967 @ $3600 in Raleigh, NC, equipment unknown. I paid $16,000 to the
second owner, put a couple grand in it and starting with Park City, we have
gone all over the States. Our license tag = RSATLAST. We are happy.
Press-on-regardless,
GRB
From "Justin" <spartan0199 at hotmail.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 07:42:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Survey / Healey prices
Where is the rest of the under 30 crowd...
Justin
Ypsilanti, MI
> Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
pay
> for your first Healey? The last?
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 08:01:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Survey Original Prices
Bill Moyer
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:18:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey prices
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Masucci
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 5:33 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Okay I gotta insert opinion again. Why I don't know as I'm sure to cause
some kind of "discussion". Oh what the hell...
Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know what
they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
value...do we?
When most of us on this list are all gone....
Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
Food for thought...
Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you pay
for your first Healey? The last?
Dave
$2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
$1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
$200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
select pieces)
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 08:40:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey prices (when you could trade a Sprite for a BJ8)
In 1981 traded my want-to-be H-Production Bug Eye
Sprite to Tom Colby (then parts guy at the Reseda CA,
Austin-Healey Store, who went on to run Speedwell
Engineering) for a nice blue/white BJ8. This was Tom's
first Sprite and my first big Healey.
Tom instantly knew a good deal when he saw one and so
did I. Tom sent me some track pictures of the car
racing at Riverside. And I went on to sell the BJ8 a
few years later (1983) for $6,000 to a veteran who
could no longer drive. He just wanted to look at it.
Paid $9,000 in 1997 for my current BN7.
Dean
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:44:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 11:53:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Shelley Jack
Date : Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:46:21 -0500
To : healeys@autox.team.net
>From : "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: Shelley jack handle
For everyone's information, here is my reply to John's posting:
I have an original handle for your jack. I cannot sell it to you, as it is
already sold to a
buddy of mine. I can give you the exact specs. It 's fairly low tech, so
it can be duplicated
on a lathe:
1/2" diameter steel bar stock. 18" inches long. It has a 1/16" 45 degree
chamfer on one end.
When you look closer at it, though, it reveals a dip in the chamfer. It is an
S shape made by
turning tools when the rod was cut off. In other words the first cut of the
tool on the lathe
goes in quickly, then back out like so: -- \_ the final diameter is 7/16".
All this happens
in less than a 1/16". The flat end has vertical grind marks.
The opposite side is cut off clean. no chamfer, but a 3/16 center protrusion
which is ground
vertically like the other end. This seems to have been material cut off after
the first 5/16
was lathed down. This part bears concentric markings to that effect. The
protrusion is hardly
measurable, but you can see it because the eye picks up the difference between
grinding marks and
concentric lathe marks. It would look like this from the end: (O)
The entire bar is silver zinc plated. Mine being NOS, has taped numbers AHH
5987 on it.
Now If any listers can help me, I am looking for a handle for my jack, a
Shelley LJ 21 for an
early 3000. This jack has a two part handle. If anyone has an authentic one,
I would like to
borrow one to make a copy. Anyone out there willing to do that I would be
eternally grateful.
--Alain Giguhre BN7 bits
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date : Mon, 31 Dec 2001 09:10:08 -0800 (PST)
>From : "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
Subject: Need Shelley CA311 Jack Handle
To : "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
I have a pot-style, ratchet Shelley CA311 jack for my BJ8; but it's missing the
"handle". Can
anyone on the list tell me if the correct handle has any identifying markings
or stampings so that
I'll know the real McCoy should I ever come across one? Does anyone have an
extra that they
would like to part with?
--Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
************************************************************************************************
--- Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com> wrote: << Does anyone know the
correct red color for
a Shelley Jack for a BT7, later type with reinforced yoke handle pocket? The
handle is missing,
could anyone please give me the dimensions so that I can make one. Is it made
from a solid bar or
from tubing? TIA Magnus Karlsson SWEDEN >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 11:04:23 -0600
Subject: Fw: Healey Prices - I should be working!
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 11:34:15 -0600
Subject: RE: Healey prices
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Turk [mailto:kturk@ala.net]
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 11:04 PM
To: healey list
Subject: Re: Healey prices
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 10:04:23 -0800
Subject: healey prices
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 13:37:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
In my case, I bought my first Healey in 1963. I was married with three kids
and one day I went out and traded the family Chevy wagon in on a new Healey.
Needless to say the wife was not happy. She promptly through me and the Healey
out of the house and filed for divorce. A year later I sold the car and we
were remarried. That was forty years ago. We are still happily married and I
finally bought another Healey in 2002. This time I am keeping both the wife
and the Healey until I die. Cheers, JL
PS. The wife loves the new Healey but it took awhile.
From "R.J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 13:43:09 -0600
Subject: Re: healey prices: some insight
The majority of listers have had their cars for a long time and paid next to
nothing for them. The majority of prices paid are well under $12,000 with a
large
portion under $5,000. You guys can't get a grip on a $40,000 or a $70,000
Healey.
Those prices sound like sheer nonsense to you guys. And that is understandable.
Just my observations.
Has Gary Anderson gotten into this one yet????
Bob Denton
From gilmour at chesapeake.net
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 19:09:45 GMT
Subject: Re:price survey
------------------------------------------------------------------
This email message was sent using web-based email services provided by
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From m.brouillette at comcast.net
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 19:11:38 +0000
Subject: Re: healey prices
I'll get to it, but all my money presently is going into a new company and
paying myself a salary. But, after listening to you guys here and in the local
club, about driving your car and getting around to the restoration when it you
can, makes me feel that it's ok to drive it now, and get to the cosmetics when
time and funds become available...
Mike Brouillette
Bedford, NH
From robert.j.anderson at att.net
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 20:08:59 +0000
Subject: Healey Prices
From Wesp11 at aol.com
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:17:35 EST
Subject: prices
hugh 314-965-8351
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:19:08 -0500
Subject: RE: healey prices: some insight
"Next to nothing" depends on your point of view. When I bought mine in the
late 70's I only spent $3500, true, but at that time that figure was better
than a third of my yearly take home salary. If the median family income
is now $50,000, a third of that is $17,000 which is just a bit higher than
what I see advertised in the club magazines for an unrestored driver, which
is what mine was at the time. From that perspective, things haven't changed
that much.
What is surprising to me about these strange prices is not that I can't get
my head around large sums. It's that if I were without a Healey and wanted
one, I'd join a club, get to know the lay of the land, buy a relatively
clean $15,000 example and either restore it myself or even pay the $30K it
might cost to have it done professionally. Either way, I'd have spent 1/4
to 1/2 what these bidders are spending. The only rationale I can think of
is the auction atmosphere and/or extremely deep pockets. If the difference
between 40K and 100K is meaningless to you and you don't want to spend the
time and effort to really know the car, then dive in and more power to you.
Bid away.
The down side is when they get bored with their latest toy and try to sell
it, their eyes might open a bit when they have to take a 50% hit. These
prices aren't going to become common any time soon, IMHO, no matter who did
the restoration or who is doing the selling. However, they -might-
encourage bubba who has one "in the barn that was running great when I put
it away" to think he has a $50K gold mine he can trade for a new Lexus when
what he's really got is a $1K, rusty, elegantly shaped anchor.
Bill Moyer, BJ7- Chimera
From stoney bennett <bonas420 at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 13:11:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Prices and what not
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:25:56 -0500
Subject: RE: healey prices: some insight
Ha! I like that. I figure another $10k or so and I can drop that last word
from that phrase.
Heard Saxon
60BT7
Enterprise, FL
From Mike <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:44:20 -0500
Subject: Re: healey prices: some insight
My first car when I turned 16 was a 1958 MGA that I had to restore before I
could impress my girfriend with it. A few years later I bought a 1968
Midget.
Since the seventies I have acquired nine Healeys. A BT7, BJ7, BJ8, BN2,
AN5, AN6 (2), AN7 (2), AN9. I have gotten some of them for free for simply
showing up. And the most I paid was $2500. The BJ8 and BJ7 are
gone. The rest are still here. The last one I bought was the BN2 in
1993. None of this counts numerous parts cars that I acquired over the
years too. And yes paying $70,000 for a Healey today would give me heart
failure.
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
Louisville, KY
Mike Schneider
Your Grandfather's Workshop
Clock manufacture and repair
502-893-1719
mikebn2@win.net
From "David" <dcrawfor at san.rr.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 13:45:23 -0800
Subject: Re: healey prices: some insight
Okay...here's my confession:
In 1953, after I first saw an Austin Healey, I lost my mind. I was released
from the institution in 1958, and because I couldn't afford the $3,500 Healey
price tag, I purchased a 1958 MGA for $2,385.00. Should never have sold it,
but did so I could pay off my college loan. My next purchase was a 1962
Healey 3000 for about $3,500.00, if memory still serves. Should never have
sold it, but did three years later, and purchased a MGB. Sigh. Well, I
suffered Healey withdrawals for years. Now, at an advanced and well-tempered
age, I'm the proud owner of a 1960 MGA I've named Iris, after her beautiful
paint color. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/MGA/mgapics.html (Scroll down to Pamela
& David Crawford's 1960 MGA) Will never sell Iris. I recently purchased an
Old English White with black interior '54 BN1 from a Midwest classic car
dealer. (Price is a secret) It's a five footer (or better?) Ask Kurt Arndt,
who most graciously rebuilt the traficator after I foolishly dismantled it 'in
place'. Now I'm ready to do a good tune-up and radiator recore. Who knows
the future, but the car is definitely fun to drive! If this keeps up I'll
have to build a garage.
Season's best wishes and warmest regards to all you Healey lovers... .
David C
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:52:32 -0600
Subject: Healey prices
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:07:48 -0500
Subject: Prices
Just returned from a 2 hour drive in the Healey! Snowed and rained last
Friday, in the 30s over the weekend, low 40s yesterday. Today, low 60s and I
could not resist what might be the last run for a while! Bright sun and a
soft wind.
Over the past few months, I "super insulated the car" against the tremendous
engine heat. Texas cooler, homemade transmission shroud, double heat shield
above muffler and so on and so and so on. I was determined to beat the heat.
I did new carpet (Heritage), and have started the new interior panels
(Heritage). I removed all the blow awayable stuff from the interior, pulled
the car out, washed it, dried it and got ready to go. I threw a jacket in the
car just in case but wore the usual shorts and shirt.
I must say, the thermometer I mounted on the wipers showed 62 degrees and the
thermometer I placed in the footwell also showed 62 degrees! I removed the
shifter boot to check the air temp and there was just warm air, not hot. The
transmission tunnel was actually cool! Temp quage showed a steady 190 on
level ground and 195 on long hill climbs and hard acceleration. Coasting
downhill, the temp guage showed 185. No jacket needed but toward the end of
the drive, my ankles were actually quite cool. Wow! I will were socks in the
spring for sure! Now, I am going to restore the heater and reinstall it!
Lots of other things done to the car recently but I could not wait untill next
spring to see if the insulation worked. If you haven't done this and you are
thinking of replacing your carpet, as a winter project, you really need to
complete the insulation first. Try it, you will be amazed and pleased.
The car is always a joy to drive but today it is absolutly grand! Actually
cool in the footwell. And what a sound! With all of the insulation, the
exhaust sound is more toward the rear of the car and you hear a different,
magnificent burble from the pipes. At 2800 RPM, there is no sound like the
Healey. It turns heads and gets looks from other cars.
Can you tell it was fun today?
Bought my TR3 in November of '63, $1500, in Washington, DC. Dealer did not
put water in the radiator and head gasket blew on the way home. Dealer's
mechanic was a Marine helicopter mechanic stationed at Andrews AFB, Maryland.
Does anyone remember what happened in November of '63. Mechanic was on full
alert at the base for 2 weeks and I got the car back in early January. Sold
the car 3 years later for $2500.
Raced a few Healeys, TRs and a Jag during the mid 60s at Upper Marlboro,
Maryland.
Bought my current 63' BJ7 in 1980 for $3000 with 44,000 miles on the clock. I
do not care what I have spent on the car since then. The pleasure has been
worth every cent. The work, the frustrations, getting things right, the parts
hunting, all the people at shows and swap meets and at the end the most
enjoyable part of all, the driving. The car is probably worth in the upper
$20K range, maybe more, just my guess. Some say it is a show car, I do not.
There are still things I need to do to the car. However, the car is not for
sale.
I had a lot of fun today!
Fred Wescoe
63' BJ7
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:21:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Prices
1951 MG TD- bought in 1951 for $0 ( Given to me by my father to take to
college) Still have it.
1939 SS 100 - bought it for $1700 in 1965, sold it for $3500 in 1970
(DUMB!)
1948 Jag MKIV Drophead - bought in 1960 for $1700. Still have it.
1948 JAG MKIV Saloon - bought in 1964 for $1100. Still have it.
1953 Jag XK120 coupe - bought in 1970 for $750. Gave it to my son in
1990
1957 Jag XK140 Roadster - bought in 1985 for $2500. Still have it
1967 MGBGT - bought in 1985 for $2000. Still have it.
1956 Healey 100M - bought for $7500 in 2001. Still have it.
However, the above prices do not include subsequent restoration costs,
most notable being $15,000 for the XK140 and $20,000 for the Healey. My
wife is breathing easier now because our garage is full.
Gene
From Slvrbulit2 at aol.com
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:04:58 EST
Subject: No Subject
>Where is the rest of the under 30 crowd..
I don't own a Healey, but have been working to restore my uncle's 1960 BT-7
since August '01. I am 25. He has had the car since the '70s. The last time
it was registered was 1982.
Seth
From William Moyer <William.Moyer at millersville.edu>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:23:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Prices
Bill Moyer, BJ7-Chimera
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:31:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Color, one last time.
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:32:29 -0500
Subject: prices: some more insight
For years I looked a Healey prices climbing in Hemmings. In 1980, I
couldn't afford one for 6,000$, but one day I bit the bullet and
bought a wreck for $3500, figured I would do the nicest restoration
possible on it, (being very picky carwise), timeline and budget were
undetermined. It was never meant to be a financial investment.
It has been 6 years and add up about $7,000 a year, that"s how much I
have spent, doing some work myself and farming out the bodywork and
engine. New chassis, new structural panels, NOS this and that, 1,000
odd hours bodywork and counting. That's my way, you don't have to
spend that much to restore a driver, but a Healey is a tricky car to
restore right if it has rusted out, hence the hefty price tag for a
professional restoration.
In my mind, the good professional shops earn their money if they do a
good job (some do some don't). My body man has 35 years experience
and I can't touch him for fabricating or painting. Getting cheap at
this point wouldn't make sense considering the time and effort
already spent. These are nice cars, they deserve to be as nice as the
Jaguars or Ferraris out there- you can't expect the value to go up if
the car has been butchered. Someday soon, I will get the car as I
envisioned it and it will pay me back in many ways for many years to
come. That's my way of investing.
I think nicely restored Healeys should be up near $70,000 (why should
they be cheaper than a musclecar?) and maybe the car your father left
you or the car you built yourself-is priceless.
Have fun.
--
Alain Giguere
BN7 Bits
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:37:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
Quoting Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>:
> 1960 BT7 3000- Bought in 1972 for $500
> 1955 100 BN1 - Bought in 1999 for $17,000
>
>
> At 05:32 PM 12/15/2003, you wrote:
> >Okay I gotta insert opinion again. Why I don't know as I'm sure to cause
> >some kind of "discussion". Oh what the hell...
> >
> >Maybe these prices are inevitable. I think it will only make these
> >cars eventually nothing but expensive toys for boys who don't even know
> what
> >they've got. Maybe that's where all Healeys will eventually end up. But I
> >guess you can't stop progress, and we don't want them going down in
> >value...do we?
> >
> >When most of us on this list are all gone....
> >
> >Will our kids be forced to sell Dad's car (assuming they'd want it in the
> >first place) because the insurance is as much as the house mortgage?
> >
> >Food for thought...
> >
> >Can I take a survey? What is the length of time that each of us has been
> >involved in or owned Healeys and other British sports cars? What did you
> pay
> >for your first Healey? The last?
> >
> >Dave
> >$2500 for my BJ8 (in 1980) Dad's last Healey...in my care.
> >$1500 for my BJ7 (in 1973) long gone...just an old picture.
> >$200 for my BJ8 parts car in 1975 or so....also just pictures. (and a few
> >select pieces)
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 15:59:34 -0800
Subject: cars and how we got them
TR3A - 1999- My wife bought the car, said I needed a hobby. About $4K and
it was in pieces and boxes. Kept me and my family busy for the next year.
Daughters learned to work on cars and one learned to drive in the car. Put
too many Thousands into it to make it a very nice car. Still have it and my
daughter claims it as her car now.
BN4- 2001 My wife said I was bored again. Came home and found another car
in the garage, in boxes and pieces again. My wife and I restored it. Took
about a year and half on this one and many thousands.
29E engine only- bought in November 2003- Need to find the rest of the car.
Garage is full!. I need to move so I can get more projects.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:31:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Color, one last time.
Skip Besaw wrote:
> Please, I posted this once with no eresponse. On a red over Black BJ8 are the
>wheel wells red or black??? I know that thay are red on an all red Healey
>THank u=you, it's getting painted next week
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:38:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey prices
I suppose to some degree this makes sense, since the list is primarily
supposed to be a technical resource (I think?) people who restore cars would
be the likely particpants. I guess if you buy a car thats all done and done
right you wouldn't have much reason to ask questions about how to fix,
rebuild, restore to original specs, etc.
Good topic, I was somewhat surprised at the replies overall.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 19:45:05 -0500
Subject: Healey prices
Got my BJ8 finally in 1982 for $750.00 - It was a basket case that I had full
intentions of restoring however the frame was severely bent and full of rust.
Engine and tranny were perfect but sold it for parts.
Now have a BN6 which I bought in 1996 for $13K - about a 5 footer since there
is about a 1/4 inch gap on the drivers door - otherwise just about perfect. But
it sure runs great. Used to really have fun when I lived in Vegas opening it up
on the freeways and driving up and down the strip. Lot of fun watching the
tourists gawk and point. Now, with the unstable weather on the East Coast don't
drive it as much as I Wish.
So, I have been a Healeyite for over 40 years.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 19:46:04 -0500
Subject: Re: cars and how we got them
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 6:59 PM
Subject: cars and how we got them
| Different twist on our hobby. I came home one day and was the owner of a:
|
| TR3A - 1999- My wife bought the car, said I needed a hobby. About $4K
and
| it was in pieces and boxes. Kept me and my family busy for the next year.
| Daughters learned to work on cars and one learned to drive in the car.
Put
| too many Thousands into it to make it a very nice car. Still have it and
my
| daughter claims it as her car now.
|
| BN4- 2001 My wife said I was bored again. Came home and found another
car
| in the garage, in boxes and pieces again. My wife and I restored it.
Took
| about a year and half on this one and many thousands.
|
| 29E engine only- bought in November 2003- Need to find the rest of the
car.
|
| Garage is full!. I need to move so I can get more projects.
|
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 19:52:59 -0500
Subject: Color, one last time.
> Please, I posted this once with no eresponse. On a red over Black BJ8 are
the wheel wells red or black??? I know that thay are red on an all red
Healey THank u=you, it's getting painted next week
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 12:07:14 +1100
Subject: Re: Color, one last time.
Is that the same as colour?
: )
If it is, the general rule that only the side panels are the 'highlight'. ie
my ivory over black BJ8 is effectively an ivory car, with black side panels.
ie the entire car (chassis underside, wheel wells, etc) is the main colour
(ivory) and only the side panels are black
So yours would be a red car (red everything), and only the side panels would
be black.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
IMPORTANT: This email is intended for the use of the individual
addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is
confidential, privileged or unsuitable for overly sensitive persons with
no sense of humour or irrational religious or enviromental beliefs. If
you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or
copying of this email is not authorised and would be deemed to be
both an annoyance, and an irritating social faux pas. Mate.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 10:31 AM
Subject: Color, one last time.
> Please, I posted this once with no eresponse. On a red over Black BJ8 are
the wheel wells red or black??? I know that thay are red on an all red
Healey THank u=you, it's getting painted next week
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 21:01:14 -0500
Subject: Healey Prices
'54 BN1 paid $850 for running corpse. bought three parts cars for $500. At
the height of my junk empire, had three engine blocks, two heads, two BN1
tranny's and one BN2. one junker came with original '50's Boranis, a
cloisonne emblemed valve cover and original cold air box. whole lot sold
after $2000 in parts and 1000 hours of knuckle busting in a barely lighted
storage bin. (Dumbest move: whole bottom end engine rebuild in the car after
a 15 coat lacquer paint job). Sold whole shebang in 1983 for $6000. Spent 20
years mourning the loss. Using same formula above, the car cost me $13,350,
roughly twice my salary in 1976 as the home town's most junior lawyer.
'56 BN2/M (factory), unrestored, minimal rust, second coat of paint. this
year, on EBAY, sight unseen. Had to have it, got it, paid $38,500 plus
shipping from LA to NY. $6000 in parts and 10 hours later, I'm still in
love. In the grand scheme of things, I could have bought a taxi fleet of
British exotics in '72 for what I paid in 2003, but, without a thought, my
third has been the best buy. Fortunately, I'm not the youngest word warrior
on the block, and this deal didn't suck down a whole year's income.
Allen Miller
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:00:19 -0800
Subject: Price of cars
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 21:39:46 EST
Subject: Re: Price of cars
Other expenses on the car that I'm keeping add up to a heck of a bill all
before I've touched any bodywork:
Putzkes Bilstein kit
New springs all corners
Stiffer antiroll bar
Minilite replicas
Rally stlye light mounts front with Lucas 7" Flamethrowers
Rally style rear bumperettes
new conical reflectors
Monza Exhaust
SS works headers
alloy valve cover
cam regrind
new lifters
new pistons rings
all new engine bearings
engine and head machine work (porting/polishing/balancing)
Triple carb setups (SU and Weber)
New lightned flywheel/clutch
Harmonic balancer
3.54 rear end
new interior
Derrington Wheel
NOS trafficator switch assembly (non-adjustable)
yatta yatta
ad nauseum
etc., etc.
hmmm, I wonder how much that's all costing me...
Rick
San Diego
members.aol.com/wilko (as long as people can see it, it's real)
From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:50:50 -0800
Subject: Re: cars and how we got them
Jerry Costanzo wrote:
>Different twist on our hobby. I came home one day and was the owner of a:
>
>TR3A - 1999- My wife bought the car, said I needed a hobby. About $4K and
>it was in pieces and boxes. Kept me and my family busy for the next year.
>Daughters learned to work on cars and one learned to drive in the car. Put
>too many Thousands into it to make it a very nice car. Still have it and my
>daughter claims it as her car now.
>
>BN4- 2001 My wife said I was bored again. Came home and found another car
>in the garage, in boxes and pieces again. My wife and I restored it. Took
>about a year and half on this one and many thousands.
>
>29E engine only- bought in November 2003- Need to find the rest of the car.
>
>Garage is full!. I need to move so I can get more projects.
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 22:17:56 -0500
Subject: Re: AH price survey
1983 bought 1960 BT7 "Healey Bits" for $250 broken in half from rust
($4500 later in new sheetmetal and frame still not together)
1993 bought Bugeye $2000 "Little Bits" disassembled and in boxes & bags
(finished 2002) enjoying driving it
Parted out Vega and all the new sheetmetal and parts to restore it for $3200
2003 bought 65,000 mile 1967 BJ8 for $17,500 after admiting may not live
long enough to finish the BT7
Dave
60 Bugeye "Little Bits" http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2z49v/bugeye.htm
60 BT7 "Healey Bits"
67 BJ8 "Big Bits"
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 20:03:55 -0800
Subject: Healey prices.
Had a "poor little rich kid" roommate in college whose parents GAVE him
a new black '66 BJ8 for his birthday! First Healey I ever rode in. Had
to have one. Bought a '60 BT7 in 1972 for $3M, at least double what it
was worth, but I didn't know :-( Bought a spare engine, rebuilt it and
swapped it in. Actually commuted in the car for many years in sunny So.
Cal. (Finally sold it to a local club member a few years ago and now
it's 2 footer.)
Since that first, I've owned two Frogeyes (commuted in one of them, too)
and 10 other big Healeys. I never kept track of the prices but they
were all under $2.5M and I never lost money. I now have only the '53
BN1 #663 that I bought from the original owner in 1978, ironically, also
for $3M. It is fully restored as a 2 foot "driver" and currently
getting Lempert gears to go with the 28% OD so I can cruise at 85 @ 3M
rpms (closed course, of course!). It has a '54 M kit and a racing
history; most notably, 1st in class at the inaugural Road America in
Elkhart Lake, 1954. I have much more into it than it will ever be
worth, but I don't care, it's how I want it. My heirs will decide
whether or not I get buried in it!
I would like to add that for 30 years Healey people have comprised most
of my social life. I've been to Healey Meets in Australia, N.Z., UK,
Canada and many here in the Colonies. With only a very few exceptions,
I've never met a better class of people who have become lifelong
friends. Thank you, Donald, for making it all possible!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 22:57:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Prices and what not
College, 1965: bought a 1955 rusty 100-4 for $300. Welded in top brackets,
made side curtains and stuck em in for the winter. What a blast. Wrecked the
front end two years later - someone in Champaign IL bought it for peanuts.
1967, AIT in Fort Bliss Tx, New wife and I bought a late 50's Hillman Minx,
we had to push start it or park headed downhill, great memories.
1968, Bought a Sunbeam Alpine for $1500. Two years and 1 kid later, sold it
for $900.
1972, unfortunate short term owning experience with a Porsche 912, 'nuf
said.
1988: bought a 1967 BJ8 for $7500, recent amateur restoration, very solid
driver, painted gold, but not the original color.
At the same time, my son bought a 1964 Sprite for $500, drove it for several
years in high school and afterwards til it disintegrated.
1991: Catastrophic failure of my wife's chevy ( out of warranty total engine
failure) made the BJ8 my only car and I had to sell it - $17,500, bought a
mid eighties XJ6. The Jag was a wonderful road car but the maintenance broke
me, sold it 2 years later and bought a new 93 Honda Accord, which just
turned 300,000 miles this week, what a great car.
2001, Bought a 1962 BT7 club project frame up restoration for $19,000. I
spent a little more correcting some of the body work and now have a very
nice driver, I get out every chance I get here in NW illinois. Luckily, I
live in the country and to go anywhere I have to drive for about 5 miles on
empty curving blacktop rural roads - woo, woo.
Currently lusting after a 2004 S2000, if the Accord would only give up.
Terry
62 HBT7L/18971
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 07:21:08 +0000
Subject: RE: Healey prices
... I sold my first car, a hand-me-down 1962 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder
1300, to help finance the purchase of my first Healey, a 1961 BN7 bought in
1971 or so for $1150. Details get sketchy after that...
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 06:37:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey prices
1. Admit you're a Healey addict
2. Place salvation in God's hands
3. Discover God likes Healeys, too
4. Lust over Kurt Tanner-restored BJ8 sold at auction for $3M
5. Buy rust bucket BT7 for $3K
6. Get divorced
7. Put 4 years and $20K into restoring rust bucket BT7
8. Sell BT7 for $12K
9. Get remarried (to same wife, now that you've come to your senses)
10. Buy good, 10-footer BN1
11. Wife gives up, decides to stay anyway and actually go on a drive
12. Live happily ever after (not counting empty wallet, barked knuckles, etc)
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 11:21 PM
Subject: RE: Healey prices
> Hi everyone, my name is Reid and I'm a Healeyholic...
>
> ... I sold my first car, a hand-me-down 1962 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder
> 1300, to help finance the purchase of my first Healey, a 1961 BN7 bought in
> 1971 or so for $1150. Details get sketchy after that...
>
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 07:27:20 -0800
Subject: Restorers
Brian
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:45:47 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: A VERY, VERY nice BN2
Jim Latoff of Maryland tells me that his extremely beautiful BN2 is for
sale, and he has asked me to help get the word out. I know nothing more --
not even asking price (which, with a car this nice one should assume is not
a give-away price) -- so if interested PLEASE CONTACT JIM DIRECTLY:
(301) 262-8259
awayfarm@aol.com
This car appeared on the cover of the November issue of Austin-Healey
Magazine, as well as across the centerspread of the September-October issue.
There's also a small photo of it here (the red/black 100):
http://www.healey.org/mission.shtml
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 11:50:03 -0700
Subject: engine for sale...!
http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
From Daveshealey100 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 13:48:58 EST
Subject: San Diego
Happy Christmas to all.
Dave
1953 BN1 100/4
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 14:11:37 -0600
Subject: Re: engine for sale...!
Kind regards
Ed
'65 BJ8
frogeye wrote:
> Wow!
>
> http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/
>
> Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100 '62 Fiat 1600S
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 12:24:02 -0800
Subject: Re: San Diego
Hi Dave,
We don't have anything scheduled during that week and I think many of us,
myself included, are going to be out of town, but maybe some of our members
who are going to be here would want to get together during your visit.
Happy Holidays,
Rick
PS - What part of Wales? I was stationed near St. Davids for two years,
back in the late 70's. That's where I first encountered Healeys.
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA, USA <http://people.qualcomm.com/rsnover>
President, Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
1959 Speedwell Sprite vintage racer (VARA <http://www.vararacing.com>)
1961 3000 Mk II "Tri-Carb" (being restored) and 1955 100 (pieces in storage)
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 17:34:14 -0500
Subject: pricing
In 61 I was living with my parents with virtually no expenses. Although my
mother did tell me that if I was going to buy that car I also had to buy my
girlfriend a ring. That cleaned me out for the rest of my annual income but
the investment paid off as we have been married for 41 years.
Carl
BN-4(L)
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 15:20:00 -0800
Subject: RE: pricing
Esko
BJ7
From "RAFAEL ABUGATTAS" <rafaelabugattas at yahoo.es>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:33:43 -0500
Subject: Healey Prices, different perspectives
I was born in the sixties when a few of you were buying your first Healeys
for $2.5K, so I am probably a tad younger than the average lister. I
recently bought on ebay a 62 BT7 (driver with rust in the usual places) for
three times that amount. Taking inflation into account, in dollar terms my
purchase price was close or probably less than the average price for a
similar car in the late 604s or early 70's. So from my perspective and in
this particular case, age plays to my benefit.
I brought the car to a third world country that has less than ten Big
Healeys (mostly drivers and a couple in restoration). Freight, taxes, import
duties nearly doubled my original investment and I am sitting now on a $15K
driver. Luckily a ground up restoration of exceptional quality in Peru is
about 1/3 of the US cost (specially for rusted cars that are more labor
intensive).
Based on this, one would expect Healey prices to be much higher here than in
the US. On the contrary, being one of a few Healeyholics (although still
happily married), and living in a very limited market, I know that if I ever
have to sell it locally, I will take a big hit. From this "local"
perspective, then it seems that moneywise my Healey was not a good
investment.
Recently and thanks to globalization, internet and ebay, local collectors
look at international markets whenever they plan to sell their cars. So from
a "global" perspective, the value of our vehicles have appreciated
considerably.
I plan to keep my Healey forever, and don4t look at it from an investment
point of view, but all this "global" perspective bs, provides me with a
valid argument whenever with my wife brings the economic aspect of my hobby
to the negotiation table.
Rafael
62 BT7, 67 MGB
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:33:41 -0500
Subject: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
Thanks,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:34:26 EST
Subject: Laycock overdrives
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:55:57 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
They even have some of the rubber grommets that are rather hard to find when
you are looking for the right size. Also Lucas style battery terminals.
No financial interest.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 17:04:51 -0800
Subject: Regarding Yellow 100-6 on Ebay
I inspected this car in September while in Washington, and almost bought
it. (I wanted disc brakes).
If anyone wants my private opinion, (which is very favorable), please
contact me. My opinion may not be worth much, but it may help you
decide to buy a plane ticket or not.
From my perspective, the project showed a very high degree to care and
craftsmanship. Whether it is correct and complete, I cannot tell, as I
am somewhat of a novice in the Healey world.
Just adding some info, fwiw.
Brian N.
From javrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:30:58 -0500
Subject: re car prices
In 64 bought a new 64 BJ8 in Paris for $2300,
Put 33K miles on it, with two tickets, and
sold it in the US for $ 1700 to a lady aeronautical engineer.
bought it back in 87 for twice its price new, and in typical Healey
condition.
Still have this one.
Then there was a 66 BJ8 bought in California around 72 for around 2500,
which after third kid had to go; for what I can't remember.
Another 66 in 83 was a basket case for $1000, now a great driver after a
17K restoration to gold level in 95.
A 67 BJ8 driver in 92 for $4500, sold in 94 for $9500, helped pay for
the above.
Now figuring how to pay for restoring the 64
John
Hightown, VA
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 20:40:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
>British Wiring Inc.
>20449 Ithaca
>Olympia Fields, IL 60461
>Phone/Fax (708) 481-9050
>
>They even have some of the rubber grommets that are rather hard to find when
>you are looking for the right size. Also Lucas style battery terminals.
>No financial interest.
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:04:37 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:12:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Denton
To: MBran89793@aol.com ; Healey list
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
Does anyone remember her name? I don't. They also make the best wiring
harnesses anywhere. And very fair prices.
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
>British Wiring Inc.
>20449 Ithaca
>Olympia Fields, IL 60461
>Phone/Fax (708) 481-9050
>
>They even have some of the rubber grommets that are rather hard to find
when
>you are looking for the right size. Also Lucas style battery terminals.
>No financial interest.
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:22:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: One more painting question
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 23:00:40 EST
Subject: Re: One more painting question
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
Chief Judge-Conclave 2003
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:25:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Color, one last time.
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: Color, one last time.
> Please, I posted this once with no eresponse. On a red over Black BJ8 are
the wheel wells red or black??? I know that thay are red on an all red
Healey THank u=you, it's getting painted next week
>
>
> Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 23:25:11 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
Best--Michael Oritt
From <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:48:05 -0700
Subject: Forwarded: Prices (my 2 cents)
http://www.team.net/posting.html
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
Subject: Prices (my 2 cents)
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:52:05 -0500
I was about 7 years old when I saw my first Healey. Ever
since then I have always wanted one. Had a Fiat Spider,
an AMX, Mustang, suped up Capri and a few hot rods over
the years. About a year ago I finally bought a 1960BT7.
I paid too much for it and have spent a small fortune
since then to make it safe and reliable. I still need to
go through the tranny and have most of the parts staged to
do a complete front end rebuild. But it is mine and I
enjoy the heck outta driving it, going to meets, and
sharing the passion with fellow AH buffs.
What did I pay?
the 10 footer - 17K
gagillions of bits - 5K
near future bits - 3 K
fun factor priceless
Tracy CA licence plate BIGHLY
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 00:02:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Wiring harness and brake line recommendation needed.
Heard Saxon wrote:
>Hello Everyone,
>Does anyone have a recommendation for suppliers of wiring harnesses and
>brake lines. Pros and cons, etc.
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:10:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey TV AD sighting
I was watching a pan-Asian TV network last night
called AXN.
All of a sudden, a new commercial from Caltex (they
have a large presence in Asia for filling stations)
showed, very prominently, a very pretty red BN4
throughout the entire ad.
It seemed the commercial was filmed and targeted at
the Malaysian market, although the commercial itself
was in English.
At one point they had the driver wearing, rather
humorously, a hippie wig, bandana and purple round
sunglasses!
I wonder if it is anyone on the list ?? ;-)
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:29:26 -0800
Subject: BJ7 tranny & Overdrive
I now have my BJ7 tranny for sale. It was good except that it popped out of
first. it is available for sale "as is" or overhauled to your exact
requirements by noted Healey specialist Eric Grundren of Absolutely
British. the tranny is now on the floor of his shop. He also has all of the
parts on hand to rebuild it.
for sale "as is" or rebuilt.
Overdrive. I also have available for sale the overdrive for a BJ7 or BJ8
tranny. In reasonable shape as is or completely rebuilt.
please respond off line if interested in either one.
Thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
1965 BJ8
310.337.7000 ext 111
From =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ulf_H=E5kansson_privat?= <hakansson.ulf at telia.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 09:26:57 +0100
Subject: Car history
The car was once owned by Pete Mustardo, Lyndhurst NJ, then having the reg. No
SCC575. Pete bought it 1970 from Victor Frangipane, who I know nothing about.
Approximately 1974 Pete sold the car to a man in Philadelphia who was going to
restore it but obviously never did, as the car never came back on the road.
1996 it was sold back to Europe for restoration.
The car was 1955 originally exported to an American serviceman in D|sseldorf,
Germany, who later brought it to the US.
Thanks/ Ulf e-mail: hakansson.ulf@telia.com
From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 08:01:20 -0500
Subject: Cars
From Rjdisi at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:08:41 EST
Subject: Trans Tunnel
Does anyone have a BN-2 transmission tunnel? I have a BN-1 with a trashed
first motion shaft and have found a four speed BN-2 replacement.
I've discovered that the transmission tunnel has a different profile than the
BN-1's. It's flatter across the top.
You can also tell the difference by the oil filler access location:
The BN-1's located beneath an access panel on the right hand side of the
tunnel.
The BN-2 had a rubber plug for the combined dipstick and oil filler at the
front of the gearbox cover.
A BN-4 transmission tunnel will also suffice.
If anyone has one, please contact me, it's the only item keeping it off the
road.
I am lucky enough to have a late BN-1 with the shorter drive shaft, so there
shouldn't be a problem there. I know the mounting points need to be changed
and those pieces are still available.
If anyone has a three speed transmission or a good first motion shaft with
the cone, I would also like to hear from you. I would like to rebuild the three
speed and keep it with the car.
Thank you,
Ray Donovan
Email: Rjdisi@aol.com
T: 215-357-8658
F: 215-357-8704
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:35:58 EST
Subject: Re: Trans Tunnel
> have found a four speed BN-2 replacement
Ray--
Consider a Moss fiberglass tunnel for a side-shift 3000. This is what I used
for my Toyota five-speed and its shape is about that of the BN2 tunnel, only
a bit longer so you will have to shorten it to fit.
Best--Michael Oritt
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:48:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
I got married on October 24, 1970, bought my first Healey (BN4L - ZELDA) on
November 24th for $500, moved into our first home on December 24 so I could
have a one car garage to fix the Healey up. The owner of the house transferred
his 1st and second mtg and gave us a 3rd TD so we could buy the place. Replaced
the tires, exhaust, rebuilt the head and had the car painted. We then went on
a two week camping trip up the California coast and into the wine country in
May 71 - great trip. I raced it in a couple of MG club events on the Ontario
Motor Speedway. I finally sold the car when I went to grad school for $500 (It
sat in my father-in-laws back yard for two years with chicken and mice - not a
pretty sight).
Bought a very nice 62 tri-carb BT7 (Zelda 2) in 1975 for $3500 from the father
of one of my co-workers. Sold the car in 1980 when I was moving to the east
coast.
I bought another Healey (BT 7 - Zelda 3)for $1500 in 1982 from a guy in
Pennsylvania. I drove it home without stopping because the wireing harness
melted when we started it up (not a real smart thing to do. Spent about $15000
to restore it and then put about 60,000 miles on it and sold it for about $20k
so I could finish a BJ8 I had purchased. Zelda was driven to Colorado, Canada
and all over the eastern US with great reliability.
I bought the 67 BJ8 for $4500 from a friend of one of my employees. I tried to
buy the car for two years before the guys mother (Stella made a deal with my
then 5 year old daughter to convince her son to sell it to me - hence the name
Stella) It need much work having been sitting in a barn for 10 plus years. In
the end I put about $20,000 into it and drove it for 35,000 miles before
selling it.Stella was driven to Canada when she only had 50 miles on the
engine. This was a very pretty car, black with a silver side and gray interior.
In the mean time I bough BT7 (paid $5000 - sold for $5500)- great car that
needed work but not much); BN2 that needed a lot of work (paid $3500 sold to a
friend for $4000 - he restored her to a first rate state. I bought a BT7
tri-carb and another BT7 but sold them off quickly.
I currently have a BN7 tri-carb under going a ground up restoration with a new
frame (orginal specifications and design except for heavier metal. I paid
$9000 for this car in Canada and it turned out to be in worse condition then I
expected (they always seem to turn out that way). I am not sure what I'll
spend in restoring it but it will be done right. I will keep this Healey - I
looked for it for many years and I am running out of time and money to do
restorations.
All in all it's been great fun for many years and I can't wait to get the BN7
back on the road.
Have fun
and a very Happy Holiday Season.
John
From "Austrheamgafun at arczip.com" <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:40:08 -0500
Subject: www.britishcarweek.org
As an answer to many requests, and the result of continued efforts to help
promote all British cars and the fun-filled hobby that we enjoy so much, we
now have an easy to remember website address for British Car Week.
www.britishcarweek.org
Yes that's right, no more long and hard to remember address for reaching the
British Car Week website. There's one less dot, two less slashes, and eighteen
less hard to remember letters!! The proceeds for this domain have been kindly
donated by the Austin-Healey Club USA for the good of all British marques,
clubs, and businesses that help support our wonderful hobby.
As most of you may already know, British Car Week is an annual world-wide
event (May 22 - 30, 2004) that is intended for promoting British cars in every
community that has a British car that is willing to be driven. It is up to
each individual British car owner to do their part in their own community to
show off their car and let the world know about these wonderful machines of
the past. Please add this date to your events listings.
We are always looking for classic British car road trip adventure stories to
add to the site, so if any of you have a few photo's and accompanying text
that you would like to share with others, please be in touch.
Much thanks to all, and have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season!
Scott Helms
BritCarWeek@arczip.com
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 18:18:40 -0600
Subject: Calipers and re-sleeving
I also sent him my masters and slave (I like saying that). He said it would
be best to buy new. I told him I thought sleeving would last forever. He
said new will last a great amount of time and these old masters and slave
look bad on the outside. I thought they just looked dirty.
Any thoughts before I make a decision?
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
59 MGA
73 Bonnie
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 23:41:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Laycock overdrives
Several years ago, I put together a binder of articles describing and detailing
the operation,
maintenance, and repair of the Laycock de Normanville overdrive. Below is an
old table of
contents; many new articles have been added but not yet listed. The first item
listed are two
papers from Laycock Engineering Ltd. In the back of Section 1, a table of A &
D Types is given
with Serial Numbers [includes percent reduction], Vehicles Models, and
Hydraulic Pressure. In
addition to this listing, I've slowly extended it with updated information so
that LH, J, and P
types are included along with AMC applications.
If you can tell me what you are after specifically, I'll try to get you an
answer.
I don't plan on duplicating the binder since to do so would take considerable
time and photocoping
costs would be quite high. Besides, copywrite laws would likely come into play.
--Scott
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Contents / -Source
1. Laycock Overdrive
Section 1-Working Principles, Maintenance and Fault Finding
Section 3-Dismantling, Inspecting & Assembling A Type Overdrive
- Laycock Engineering Ltd,Sheffield, England
2. Electrical Equipment for Laycock de Normanville Overdrive -LUCAS Technical
Services
3. Overdrive Pressure Gauge -Lauren Frazier
4. Two Cent Overdrive Repair -Jim Werner
5. Mr. Finespanner on the Overdrive -Del Border
6. Solenoid Diagnosis -AHCA Tech Note
7. Overdrive Throttle Switch Adjustment -Roger Moment, SOL
8. Overdrive Electrical Diagnosis -Steve Martin, SOL
9. Overdrive Tune-up -Olin Kane
10. Austin Healey Overdrive Electric Solenoid -William Kowalski
11. Laycock Overdrive as fitted to Austin Healey 100 -Laycock Engineering Ltd
12. Hints on Austin Healey 100 Overdrive Maintenance -B. J. Collings
13. Overdrive makes the car -Mal Jones
14. The Austin Healey Overdrive -Chip Schmidt
15. Overdrive Problems Walt Glendenning
16. Fitting the Overdrive to the Gearbox -Norman and David Kock
17. General Knowledge for Austin Healey Owners -Norman Nock
18. Electrical controls in overdrive units -Norman Nock
Workshop & Service Manuals
A.1 Austin Healey 100-6 / 3000 Overdrive
A.2 Austin Healey 100 Overdrive
B MGB Overdrive
C Volvo 122 S Laycock Overdrive Type J
**********************************************************************************************
--- Warthodson@aol.com wrote: << I am trying to locate some general information
concerning the
various Laycock de Normanville overdrives. For instance, which vehicles were
offered with the A, D
& J types? What torque could the various types handle. Are there other types
besides the three
listed? Does anyone know of any reference material on this overdrive? Thanks,
Gary >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 05:30:57 -0500
Subject: BN2 steering idler
Assuming the worst, we will likely need to secure new shafts, levers and
bushings, and have started looking about for part sources. Bushings are
available from Moss, but the only catalogue source I've found so far is Dennis
Welch's, who carries forged steering arms, which he lists as a single part for
the entire BN2-BJ8 run. I've looked through Moss, British Car Specialists, and
Victoria British Ltd.
1. Does anyone out there have a line on where to get the levers and shafts
new?
2. Any advise on installing the DW levers?
3. If both the lever grooves and the shaft splines turn out to be stripped,
can you have the splines renewed at a machine shop?
4. Any lines on used parts?
5. We're going full bore on the front end. New stub axles, bearings, rod
sets, kingpins, trunions, replacing the cross beam (damaged on underside),
shocks, and upgrade to Dennis Welch's 7/8" swaybar. Is there something we
should add to the list?
Any & all thoughts very much appreciated. Thanks.
Allen Miller
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 03:33:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BN2 steering idler
Although I typically don't order from SC Parts that
often, I did purchase a very nice new complete RHD
steering idler from SC parts about 3 years ago, and it
wasn't that expensive.
At that time they also had LHD ones in stock, and I
know they also... from time to time... have had the
shafts in stock as well. You should give them a call
and see what they have on the shelf.
http://www.scparts.co.uk/
At the end of the day finding a good used/rebuildable
auto jumble replacement shouldn't be that difficult...
you may wish to go that route. If you have trouble
finding a RHD idler arm, you can use the LHD arm from
the steering box, the measurements & mount are the
same I think (just flip it over).
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
wrote:
> The M's front suspension is being renewed by a
> professional, and in tearing
> down, he has found some welds on the both the
> steering lever and on the
> corresponding idler gear lever at the necks which
> surround the respective
> shafts' splines. The welds are at the tops of the
> lever necks. Has anyone
> encountered similar repairs? We haven't completed
> the tear-down, so at this
> time our speculations vary from (1) the grooves in
> the levers' bores and/or
> lands on the shaft splines have stripped from tire
> forces during a curb strike
> or similar accident to (2) stress cracking.
>
> Assuming the worst, we will likely need to secure
> new shafts, levers and
> bushings, and have started looking about for part
> sources. Bushings are
> available from Moss, but the only catalogue source
> I've found so far is Dennis
> Welch's, who carries forged steering arms, which he
> lists as a single part for
> the entire BN2-BJ8 run. I've looked through Moss,
> British Car Specialists, and
> Victoria British Ltd.
>
> 1. Does anyone out there have a line on where to
> get the levers and shafts
> new?
>
> 2. Any advise on installing the DW levers?
>
> 3. If both the lever grooves and the shaft
> splines turn out to be stripped,
> can you have the splines renewed at a machine shop?
>
> 4. Any lines on used parts?
>
> 5. We're going full bore on the front end. New
> stub axles, bearings, rod
> sets, kingpins, trunions, replacing the cross beam
> (damaged on underside),
> shocks, and upgrade to Dennis Welch's 7/8" swaybar.
> Is there something we
> should add to the list?
>
> Any & all thoughts very much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Allen Miller
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 05:47:08 -0600
Subject: Re: BN2 steering idler
From Warthodson at aol.com
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 07:48:41 EST
Subject: Re: Laycock overdrives
> If you can tell me what you are after specifically, I'll try to get you an
> answer.
Scott,
That is an impressive index of overdrive information. I guess my #1 question
is: What is the relative torque handling capabilities of the A, D, J & P
types? Is one type more reliable/rugged than another?
Thanks,
Gary
From "Greg Wilkinson" <gregwilkinson at adelphia.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 07:54:55 -0800
Subject: RE: Calipers and re-sleeving
> -----Original Message-----
>
> OK so I sent off my calipers to a recomended guy. He had to use
> heat to get
> the pistons out. They would not budge. I Used C-clamps,
> compressed air etc.
> Nothing moved.
>
> I also sent him my masters and slave (I like saying that). He
> said it would
> be best to buy new. I told him I thought sleeving would last forever. He
> said new will last a great amount of time and these old masters and slave
> look bad on the outside. I thought they just looked dirty.
>
> Any thoughts before I make a decision?
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
From Mike MacLean <macleans at earthlink.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 10:36:14 -0800
Subject: Re: BN2 steering idler
Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
>The M's front suspension is being renewed by a professional, and in tearing
>down, he has found some welds on the both the steering lever and on the
>corresponding idler gear lever at the necks which surround the respective
>shafts' splines. The welds are at the tops of the lever necks. Has anyone
>encountered similar repairs? We haven't completed the tear-down, so at this
>time our speculations vary from (1) the grooves in the levers' bores and/or
>lands on the shaft splines have stripped from tire forces during a curb strike
>or similar accident to (2) stress cracking.
>
>Assuming the worst, we will likely need to secure new shafts, levers and
>bushings, and have started looking about for part sources. Bushings are
>available from Moss, but the only catalogue source I've found so far is Dennis
>Welch's, who carries forged steering arms, which he lists as a single part for
>the entire BN2-BJ8 run. I've looked through Moss, British Car Specialists, and
>Victoria British Ltd.
>
>1. Does anyone out there have a line on where to get the levers and shafts
>new?
>
>2. Any advise on installing the DW levers?
>
>3. If both the lever grooves and the shaft splines turn out to be stripped,
>can you have the splines renewed at a machine shop?
>
>4. Any lines on used parts?
>
>5. We're going full bore on the front end. New stub axles, bearings, rod
>sets, kingpins, trunions, replacing the cross beam (damaged on underside),
>shocks, and upgrade to Dennis Welch's 7/8" swaybar. Is there something we
>should add to the list?
>
>Any & all thoughts very much appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Allen Miller
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 11:01:30 -0800
Subject: test
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 11:01:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Chatter magazines
From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 23:49:01 +0100
Subject: Healey prices
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 23:03:59 -0000
Subject: Re: BN2 steering idler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: BN2 steering idler
> Allen -
>
> Although I typically don't order from SC Parts that
> often, I did purchase a very nice new complete RHD
> steering idler from SC parts about 3 years ago, and it
> wasn't that expensive.
>
> At that time they also had LHD ones in stock, and I
> know they also... from time to time... have had the
> shafts in stock as well. You should give them a call
> and see what they have on the shelf.
>
> http://www.scparts.co.uk/
>
> At the end of the day finding a good used/rebuildable
> auto jumble replacement shouldn't be that difficult...
> you may wish to go that route. If you have trouble
> finding a RHD idler arm, you can use the LHD arm from
> the steering box, the measurements & mount are the
> same I think (just flip it over).
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '64 BJ8
>
> --- "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> wrote:
> > The M's front suspension is being renewed by a
> > professional, and in tearing
> > down, he has found some welds on the both the
> > steering lever and on the
> > corresponding idler gear lever at the necks which
> > surround the respective
> > shafts' splines. The welds are at the tops of the
> > lever necks. Has anyone
> > encountered similar repairs? We haven't completed
> > the tear-down, so at this
> > time our speculations vary from (1) the grooves in
> > the levers' bores and/or
> > lands on the shaft splines have stripped from tire
> > forces during a curb strike
> > or similar accident to (2) stress cracking.
> >
> > Assuming the worst, we will likely need to secure
> > new shafts, levers and
> > bushings, and have started looking about for part
> > sources. Bushings are
> > available from Moss, but the only catalogue source
> > I've found so far is Dennis
> > Welch's, who carries forged steering arms, which he
> > lists as a single part for
> > the entire BN2-BJ8 run. I've looked through Moss,
> > British Car Specialists, and
> > Victoria British Ltd.
> >
> > 1. Does anyone out there have a line on where to
> > get the levers and shafts
> > new?
> >
> > 2. Any advise on installing the DW levers?
> >
> > 3. If both the lever grooves and the shaft
> > splines turn out to be stripped,
> > can you have the splines renewed at a machine shop?
> >
> > 4. Any lines on used parts?
> >
> > 5. We're going full bore on the front end. New
> > stub axles, bearings, rod
> > sets, kingpins, trunions, replacing the cross beam
> > (damaged on underside),
> > shocks, and upgrade to Dennis Welch's 7/8" swaybar.
> > Is there something we
> > should add to the list?
> >
> > Any & all thoughts very much appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Allen Miller
From "bradley lawler" <miata-driver at charter.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:24:47 -0600
Subject: What do you think of this car?
I know this is fresh off the 100S thing on E-bay, but what do you think of
this car, and why is it on Ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6278&item=2448840708
Brad
http://www.babiesonline.com/babies/m/myahhope/
Don't let school interfere with your education.
--Mark Twain
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:32:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Calipers and re-sleeving
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 6:18 PM
Subject: Calipers and re-sleeving
> OK so I sent off my calipers to a recomended guy. He had to use heat to
get
> the pistons out. They would not budge. I Used C-clamps, compressed air
etc.
> Nothing moved.
>
> I also sent him my masters and slave (I like saying that). He said it
would
> be best to buy new. I told him I thought sleeving would last forever. He
> said new will last a great amount of time and these old masters and slave
> look bad on the outside. I thought they just looked dirty.
>
> Any thoughts before I make a decision?
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
> 59 MGA
> 73 Bonnie
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:56:50 -0600
Subject: Another frustrating task
Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas,
Tim Davis BN7
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:20:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
Brian N
Capitola, CA
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:27:19 -0800
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
My guess is they have a $1,500,000 reserve.
Also, this eBay listing might just be an attention ploy before moving on
to a legitimate and proper auction. The seller could be probing buyers
and the market for data and willingness before laying out a serious
selling strategy.
Brian N
($850K for a Jaguar? Maybe I sold my Spitfire too low.)
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:32:06 -0800
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
At 8% interest for five years, the payment is a mere $15,522 per month.
OK.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 21:40:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Davis <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 7:56 PM
Subject: Another frustrating task
> Please offer suggestions regarding the proper way to install the rubber
> bumpers under the hood, the ones retained around the engine compartment
with
> split rivets. The rivets I purchased were split unevenly and the split was
not
> deep enough. Hence one leg would bend over while the other one resisted
all
> but brute force. I even tore through one of the holes in the shroud trying
to
> get the *&^$*^# thing on. HELP!
>
> Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas,
>
> Tim Davis BN7
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:44:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
My guess would be that the reserve is purposefully set
too high and the broker is just getting the word out
(free advertising on ebay) before putting the thing up
for auction somewhere.
Well... if the son let it sit in the barn for 35 years
despite its obvious good running condition... I have
to wonder what the son has been smoking all these
years!!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- bradley lawler <miata-driver@charter.net> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I know this is fresh off the 100S thing on E-bay,
> but what do you think of
> this car, and why is it on Ebay?
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6278&item=2448840708
>
> Brad
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Skip Besaw" <besaw55@yahoo.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:46:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
get longer split rivets! I think Norm Nock carries
the OEM style rivets in stock
www.britishcarspecialists.com .
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
--- Tim Davis <tld6008@mchsi.com> wrote:
> Please offer suggestions regarding the proper way to
> install the rubber
> bumpers under the hood, the ones retained around the
> engine compartment with
> split rivets. The rivets I purchased were split
> unevenly and the split was not
> deep enough. Hence one leg would bend over while the
> other one resisted all
> but brute force. I even tore through one of the
> holes in the shroud trying to
> get the *&^$*^# thing on. HELP!
>
> Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas,
>
> Tim Davis BN7
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 22:07:54 -0500
Subject: Another frustrating task
> Please offer suggestions regarding the proper way to install the rubber
> bumpers under the hood, the ones retained around the engine compartment
with
> split rivets. The rivets I purchased were split unevenly and the split was
not
> deep enough. Hence one leg would bend over while the other one resisted
all
> but brute force. I even tore through one of the holes in the shroud trying
to
> get the *&^$*^# thing on. HELP!
>
> Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas,
>
> Tim Davis BN7
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 19:33:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
-Roland
BJ7
On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 18:56:50 -0600, you wrote:
::Please offer suggestions regarding the proper way to install the rubber
::bumpers under the hood, the ones retained around the engine compartment with
::split rivets. The rivets I purchased were split unevenly and the split was not
::deep enough. Hence one leg would bend over while the other one resisted all
::but brute force. I even tore through one of the holes in the shroud trying to
::get the *&^$*^# thing on. HELP!
From "rjhco" <rjh at hockertlaw.us>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 21:52:27 -0600
Subject: Seeking Quaife
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 17:27:42 +0800
Subject: Re: Seeking Quaife
If no luck locally try Hardy Engineering in the UK. They are distributors of
Quaife. I bought mine from them in 2002 went I went to the 50th anniversary
rally. http://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
1959 3000 (Rally Replica in disguise)
----- Original Message -----
From: "rjhco" <rjh@hockertlaw.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: Seeking Quaife
> I am seeking a Quaife LSD for my BJ8 rear end. Any listers know of one
for
> sale? Please contact off list. Thanks very much.
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 09:51:59 -0000
Subject: Re: Seeking Quaife
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay AH 3000 BJ8
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
Now offering quality tools at discount prices. See www.ccw-tools.com for
further details.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rjhco" <rjh@hockertlaw.us>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 3:52 AM
Subject: Seeking Quaife
> I am seeking a Quaife LSD for my BJ8 rear end. Any listers know of one
for
> sale? Please contact off list. Thanks very much.
> Best regards,
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 08:15:36 -0500
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
"Well... if the son let it sit in the barn for 35 years
despite its obvious good running condition... I have
to wonder what the son has been smoking all these
years!!"
It's obvious what he's been smoking... he's been on a jag!
allen (also blue) 100
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 08:24:56 -0500
Subject: What do you think of this car?
allen miller
from July 2003 forward?
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 08:33:51 EST
Subject: Web Archives - Working Correctly?
Can anyone help or tell me what I am doing wrong?
Also, is there any way one can download the entire set of archives (say into
MS Word) and do searches off-line? We used to be able to do this?
Thanks
Jeff Stepek
1964 BJ8
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 06:19:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
Alan
'53 BN1 '64 BJ8
From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 09:24:20 EST
Subject: Bluegrass Club Fall Tour
Full itinerary is attached or can be found at
http://members.aol.com/bluegrassclub/falltour.pdf
Contact Bob Thurman at rrthurman@tva.gov for reservations and details
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
www.springthing.info
www.bluegrassclub.com
information@bluegrassclub.com
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of Bluegrass Fall Tour.pdf]
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 09:31:25 -0500
Subject: RE: What do you think of this car?
Cheers
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Allen C Miller, Jr. <acmiller@mhcable.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/20/03 8:25:05 AM
> Subject: What do you think of this car?
>
> I saw something like this on EBAY with a piece of federal furniture. It
was
> an absolutely incredible Baltimore bookcase with reverse painted glass
> panels, probably the best of its kind ever seen, but when the day is done,
> not worth more than $175,000 - $250,000 in the prevailing market at
> Christies or Sotheby's (still a good day's pay). The seller kept relisting
> it, first at $500,000 then upping it to $1,500,000. Needless to say, 0
bids.
> It made no sense. One just doesn't do this, whether it's furniture, cars,
> or auctioning brides in Morrocco. Over-exposure can backfire.
>
> allen miller
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 07:44:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: What do you think of this car?
Happy Healeydays,
Rick
--- tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I probably mis-interpreted your post, but
> "over-exposure" on a real D-type
> Jag? Over a million$, as I remember seeing an
> estimate, is not out of line
> for this car.
>
> Cheers
> tom
>
>
> >
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 11:25:24 -0500
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
"Me, too," but remember that $8,500 in 1956 is roughly the equivalent of
$85,000 in today's dollars.
Since we're mainly OFs (Old Fellows :-) here, anyone else find themself
dividing todays dollars by 10 at store checkouts in order to make prices feel
at least a little "rational?"
--
John Miller
I know the answer! The answer lies within the heart of all mankind!
The answer is twelve? I think I'm in the wrong building.
-- Charles Schulz
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 10:42:23 -0600
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
From John Luttenberger <johnl at golden.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 11:52:50 -0500
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
Regards
John
James Minot wrote:
>What made me cry is the orinal sales contract. About
>$8,500 when new. Doubt if any $8,500 car I ever buy
>will be worth more than $1 million in the future.
>
>Happy Healeydays,
>Rick
>
>
>
>--- tom felts <tomfelts@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I probably mis-interpreted your post, but
>>"over-exposure" on a real D-type
>>Jag? Over a million$, as I remember seeing an
>>estimate, is not out of line
>>for this car.
>>
>>Cheers
>>tom
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>__________________________________
From James Wilson <snaggle2th_gb at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 09:55:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Seeking Quaife
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 12:15:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Seeking Quaife
Can a (more or less) stock Healey really make use of a LSD?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Wilson" <snaggle2th_gb@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 9:55 AM
Subject: Seeking Quaife
> Quaife on the web:
>
> http://www.quaifeamerica.com/
>
> or
>
> http://www.quaife.co.uk
>
> Good luck.
>
> James
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:45:03 -0500
Subject: "Super Insulation"
I have received a couple of requests for additional information on the "super
insulation" job I did on my BJ 7. My process reduced the driver's side
footwell temp to the same as the outside air. This, measured on a 62 degree
day.
I would like some feedback from the list. If there is enough interest to
warrent my writing up a profile of the work with pictures, I will do so.
If there are just 2 or 3 owners interested, I will respond with help off
list.
If you have a real interest in what I did, and are interested in me writing
something up, contact me off list.
Thanks,
Fred
63' BJ7
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 19:02:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
> Tim,
> Sorry to hear of your frustration. Sorry I can't help you but you
could
> certainly help the rest of us out by telling us where NOT to buy our
rivets
> from. Return shipping costs are adding up and are a real pain in the
butt.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Davis <tld6008@mchsi.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 7:56 PM
> Subject: Another frustrating task
>
>
> > Please offer suggestions regarding the proper way to install the rubber
> > bumpers under the hood, the ones retained around the engine compartment
> with
> > split rivets. The rivets I purchased were split unevenly and the split
was
> not
> > deep enough. Hence one leg would bend over while the other one resisted
> all
> > but brute force. I even tore through one of the holes in the shroud
trying
> to
> > get the *&^$*^# thing on. HELP!
> >
> > Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas,
> >
> > Tim Davis BN7
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:22:22 -0800
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
If you took your $9950 and put it in a 5% simple interest account it would
be worth $109,000 today.
or is my HP12 off?
to buy a $8500 car today you need to spend $58,000 in 1955 dollars.
there must be a math or statistics major out there to help.
ron Rader
YMMV
At 08:52 AM 12/20/2003, John Luttenberger wrote:
>The original invoice says 9950, now put that into perspective . I would
>wager that in 1955 10k was a good salary for probably 5 years .
>Translate that to todays dollars and it was an incredibly expensive car
>, in the high end Ferrari territory. Certainly well out of the range of
>the average working stiff, and it still is . 10k put into an average
>secure investment in 1955 would I'm sure be worth well over a mil today .
>
>Regards
>John
>
>James Minot wrote:
>
> >What made me cry is the orinal sales contract. About
> >$8,500 when new. Doubt if any $8,500 car I ever buy
> >will be worth more than $1 million in the future.
> >
> >Happy Healeydays,
> >Rick
From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 21:28:18 EST
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
As far as the amazing 100 goes, i don't know what happened to it, but I do
have pictures of it somewhere.
John
Oostburg, WI
Home of:
1960 Austin Healey 3000
1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
1957 BMW Isetta 300
1969 Austin America
1980 Triumph TR7
1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 19:39:23 -0800
Subject: overdrive malfunction
From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 19:51:30 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Dash
I am working on a friend's 1966 Sunbeam Tiger which needs a new dash.
Thanks
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 19:53:31 -0800
Subject: overdrive problem
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 23:03:23 EST
Subject: Re: Another frustrating task
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 22:52:44 -0600
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
At the time I was restoring a TR4A, I was very interested in the level of
fit and finish from the factory of old british sports cars (I know it was a
different decade and different factory, but don't get a chance to see such
an unmolested car very often.)
Interesting if it was completely orginal, the sides of the windshield frames
were not painted body color.
Car looked to be Spruce Green with red top and interior. Would love a
chance to inspect it again now that I have one and know more about them.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: <MOWOGMAN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: What do you think of this car?
> I remeber that 100/4 at the Elkhart Lake concours in front of Siebkens
quite
> well. What was stunning was the level of detailing (a lower level) which
is
> forgotten on todays concours cars. The paint in particular although nice
> enough seemed very thin to me and not of a very rich tone. Other items of
trim
> etc, were not "over the top" perfect like I see in many "perfect" cars
today.
> What was really amazing was that this car was simply awesome! Everything
> about it worked together and truly a gem to observe. I'm sure I have
pictures
> of this car somewhere. This car, and the D type as it is today, should
mean a
> lot more to us than any "perfect" car over restored with $80,000, that's
> right, let me always repeat, $80,000 worth of work.
>
> As far as the amazing 100 goes, i don't know what happened to it, but I do
> have pictures of it somewhere.
>
>
>
>
> John
>
> Oostburg, WI
> Home of:
> 1960 Austin Healey 3000
> 1960 Austin Mini 850 (with 1380, lowered, etc)
> 1957 BMW Isetta 300
> 1969 Austin America
> 1980 Triumph TR7
> 1939 Dodge business coupe (patiently awaiting rebirth)
> 2003 Mini Cooper S (get one of these!)
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 23:20:15 -0700
Subject: Re: overdrive problem
My best guess - Go here & check the entry by Bob Gillanders;
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Over.html
A completely blocked valve port can cause the OD to self apply without
the controls.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Shope wrote:
> don't think my first e-mail made it out. need help. after helping a club
> member put his rebuilt carbs on his beautiful bj8 we took it out for a test
> drive. he had also just had the transmission rebuilt at a professional.
> while in second gear we both noticed that the car went into overdrive WITHOUT
> THE OVERDRIVE SWITCH BEING ON !!!!!!!!. now i know that i can do hours of
> research, troubleshooting, and racing down the road yelling s--- it still
> doesn't work. with all the knowledge out there among you healeyphiles, i was
> hoping someone could tell me where to start looking, especially if it has
> happened to you. solenoid clicks and safety switch is working correctly in
> static. any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.
> healeymanjim
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 08:59:26 EST
Subject: Re: overdrive malfunction
> after helping a club member put his rebuilt carbs on his beautiful bj8, we
> took it for a test drive. he had also just had the transmission rebuilt at a
> professonial shop. we both noticed that it went into overdrive while in
> second gear WITHOUT THE OVERDRIVE SWITCH BEING ON !!!!! now i know i can
> spend hours researching, troubleshooting, and racing down the road yelling
> s--- it still doesn't work. however, knowing all the knowledge floating
> around out there among you healeyphiles, i was wondering if this has
> happened
> to anyone before, and where do i start looking. selonoid clicks and safety
> switch works on a static check. any ideas would be appreciated. thanks in
> advance. healeymanjim
Have you tested the switch on the dash? Could it be upside down?...so, when
you think it's "off", it's "on"
Let's hope so, 'cos that's got to be the cheapest fix!
Simon.
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 08:20:13 -0600
Subject: Healeys in Chicago Sun Times
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 09:53:02 -0500
Subject: spedo on EBAY
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 06:56:10 -0800
Subject: New Port Richey Florida (no Healey Contect)
Tracy
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 10:54:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey prices
And that, in a nutshell, is why we do it. You'll also find
it's fun when you turn the key, put it into gear, and go for
a ride.
Kent
'56 100 BN2, Pyle O'Rrust
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 12:59:16 -0500
Subject: Re: overdrive malfunction
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 10:39 PM
Subject: overdrive malfunction
> after helping a club member put his rebuilt carbs on his beautiful bj8, we
> took it for a test drive. he had also just had the transmission rebuilt at
a
> professonial shop. we both noticed that it went into overdrive while in
> second gear WITHOUT THE OVERDRIVE SWITCH BEING ON !!!!! now i know i can
> spend hours researching, troubleshooting, and racing down the road yelling
> s--- it still doesn't work. however, knowing all the knowledge floating
> around out there among you healeyphiles, i was wondering if this has
happened
> to anyone before, and where do i start looking. selonoid clicks and
safety
> switch works on a static check. any ideas would be appreciated. thanks
in
> advance. healeymanjim
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 16:57:58 -0500
Subject: Winter storage
http://www.msnusers.com/mmscc/Documents/Pictures/Winterstorage%2Ejpg
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 14:12:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Price of cars
1967- '59 Bugeye bought from my cousin for $350. Like
crack, the first one's cheap so they get you hooked.
My first car. Flintstone floorboards and aftermarket
hardtop. Lots of fun, sold it a year later to two
guys who just returned from a motorcycle trip from
Boston to Alaska and back on a Royal Enfield and
Norton Commander
1976- '59 Bugeye. Bought for $350, put about $10k
into it. Great car, still runs strong. Most recently
made the 800 mile round-trip to Sprite Spree.
1981 - BJ7 former SCCA race car for $6,000. 24,000
miles on the clock Rust free body and chassis.
Probably have $10,000 into it returning it to the
street with new everything, triple HD8's, Isky cam,
Lempert gears, Smitty 5 spd.
2003 - Healey-Jamaican. $1500 for a project car.
This will be the bad boy. Small block Chev with more
than 400 hp, probably Richmond 6 spd., and whatever
else I can steal from the kid's college fund.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick Neville
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 18:10:30 -0500
Subject: "Super Insulation"
What a list. I have received over 3 dozen requests for what I did to lower
the footwell temps in my BJ7.
In the next few days or week, I will attempt to provide the list with a
detailed outline of what I did to my car. There is a holiday in here so be
patient, I will get it done.
I will supply details, descriptions, brand names of materials, sources, prices
and as much additional info as I can. If I can borrow someone's digital
camera, I will even supply some photos.
Some of this info will be worthless and yet some of it can be done even if you
are not replacing carpet.
Thanks,
Fred
63' BJ7
From "i erbs" <eyera3 at comcast.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 16:11:21 -0800
Subject: More about price
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 17:38:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Fwd: Re: More about price
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb at verizon.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 22:16:16 -0500
Subject: animated pointers
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:22:06 +0000
Subject: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
Here's an opportunity that may be just what you've been looking for...
Fred Nickerson of Groveland, Massachusetts needs to sell a 1962
Austin-Healey 3000 Mark II (tri-carb) with the very desirable CENTER SHIFT
transmission, as soon as possible. I have no first-hand knowledge of this
car, but Fred reports that:
-- Red with red interior.
-- No hardtop.
-- It runs great.
-- It has been in his family since 1968.
-- All gears work, including overdrive.
-- Needs some rust repair.
-- Last time registered was 1978, but it has been run, driven a few miles
and serviced every summer.
-- 75,000 miles on the odo.
-- Always garaged.
-- Has a brake fluid leak.
-- Seller very motivated.
I have seen a few lo-res photos of the car, and noted that the windscreen is
not installed (Fred says he has it; I don't know why it was removed). It
looked to me like there was "typical rust" in the rockers and doglegs, but
the photos were dark, fuzzy and lo-res. My impression is that this car --
while reportedly a running, driving, complete car -- needs a total
restoration.
Fred mentioned a price of $5,000, which may be a REAL bargain if you want to
undertake a frame-up restoration of a four-seat tri-carb. (Don't ever let
anyone tell you that I don't pass along the good deals!)
If interested, please contact Fred directly. Remember that he's in the
Eastern Time Zone, but I spoke with him earlier and he is open to receiving
late-ish calls:
508-397-3733
freddinix@msn.com
Good luck. Let's hope someone will give this car a good home and get it
back on the road! And as my "finder's fee" I would appreciate a photo of
the finished restoration for Austin-Healey Magazine!
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
_________________________________________________________________
Get dial-up Internet access now with our best offer: 6 months @$9.95/month!
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 19:59:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 11:28:49 EST
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
Visit our new web site at
BritishCarSpecialists.com
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sasktel.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 13:10:11 -0600
Subject: Happy Holidays
From the Great White North - to all Seasons Greeting, Happy Holidays s
and A Great Healey driving year in 2004!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
http://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 15:36:08 EST
Subject: 2004 SE Classic
From Randy Hicks <healey100m at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 15:52:51 -0800
Subject: I Lied
55 degrees in Southern New England today. Couldn't resist.
Ruby & I went and got a couple Rib Eye's for dinner. Thought we were done
for the season, but no, what a great ride.
Wed. 55 degrees again! Keep it coming!!!!!!!!
Randy Hicks
'56 100M (Ruby)
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 17:26:05 -0500
Subject: Re: animated pointers
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Blaskovics
To: Austin Healey Group
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 10:16 PM
Subject: animated pointers
A while back someone put up an animated pointer of
a Healey. I lost mine. If anyone has the address please let
me know.
TIA
________________
Happy Healeying
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 17:55:26 EST
Subject: Re: Happy Holidays
Lanny
59 BT7 (Louise)
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 16:28:54 -0700
Subject: Smitty Clutch Disk
I am laying out the parts for my Smitty coversion and plodding along. My
machine shop friend (racer) has recommended a more robust clutch disk with
different material on the disk to take extra abuse and heat (planned
autocrossing). I recall hearing that the clutch disk should be a bit
thicker than that offered on a standard clutch plate for a toyota. Can
anyone enlighten me on how thick the clutch should be?
Also. I am looking for a shift lever and a yoke to go from the output shaft
to the driveshaft.. Toyota wants to GIVE me the shaft for these parts and
junk yards around here are less than cooperative.. (read that they don't
want to help at all).
Thanks.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - comin along
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 17:58:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Smitty Clutch Disk
http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jimwerner.html
Smitty sells a thicker clutch disc than the stock one and that should do the
trick, as, after all, the Toyota Clutch works with the Supra, which has more
power than almost any 6-cyl Healey.
Somebody else mentioned you could have a machine shop turn down the
periphery of the flywheel a few thou, but not the part where the friction
disk clamps. That gets you more pressure on the plate when you bolt the
clutch together. I haven't done this and my Smitty disk has been working
fine for over a year.
My driveshaft supplier (Pasadena, CA area) built the shaft incorporating a
US-made aftermarket yoke. "No problem", he said. They do Toyotas all the
time.
The whole thing was about $125.
Smitty has instructions for the measuring of the shaft. Take your old shaft
in so they can see what the rear u-joint looks like.
My trans came out of a truck with a long shift lever set onto a stub via a
rubber anti-vibration bushing. You can work the lever off and shave off the
rubber with an X-Acto knife. You'll be left with a short stub about 6"-8"
long.
I went to an industrial hardware store and found a plain black 1-1/4" knob
and a bushing, which I bored out to be a force fit on the shift lever.
Now if I could just find someone who could engrave a 5-spd pattern on the
ball in a style similar to the original.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com>
> Reply-To: James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com>
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 16:28:54 -0700
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Smitty Clutch Disk
>
> Greetings All.
>
> I am laying out the parts for my Smitty coversion and plodding along. My
> machine shop friend (racer) has recommended a more robust clutch disk with
> different material on the disk to take extra abuse and heat (planned
> autocrossing). I recall hearing that the clutch disk should be a bit
> thicker than that offered on a standard clutch plate for a toyota. Can
> anyone enlighten me on how thick the clutch should be?
>
> Also. I am looking for a shift lever and a yoke to go from the output shaft
> to the driveshaft.. Toyota wants to GIVE me the shaft for these parts and
> junk yards around here are less than cooperative.. (read that they don't
> want to help at all).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - comin along
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:42:57 -0600
Subject: Fw: animated pointers
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 21:43:42 -0600
Subject: Fw: Smitty Clutch Disk
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 23:25:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
Firing order is 153624
As you stand on the dist side of the engine #1 plug wire should enter the
cap at the 1 o'clock position. Then count counterclockwise from there.
Keith Pennell
> I still can get my bj8 to start after replacing the spark plug wires. I
checked for spark and there was spark at all cylinders some stronger than
others. I removed the boots and re-screwed them into the wires. I also
compared the wire position on the distributor to pictures on Gary Anderson
and Roger Moment's book.
> I have the wires as follows:
> Top row - from the left standing facing the car- #2, Coil, #6.
> Bottom row -from left again - #3,#1,#5,and #4.
> Can someone comfirm that I have the wires connected to the correct spark
plug.
> Thanks
> Jorge
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 00:41:50 EST
Subject: Re: Smitty Clutch Disk
SMITTY
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 09:49:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
I went through this hoop some months ago. To save time I got Cape to
supply a loom with cap and plug caps, but, when it arrived, it was quite
different from my original. Cape sent a length of cable, and I rebuilt
the assembly to my original spec. All is explained here ....
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Make what you will of it!
Merry Christmas to all.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the Austin Healey Club - www.austin-healey-club.com
Also the AHC Thames Valley Centre - www.austin-healey-club.co.uk
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 06:22:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
FWIW, my BJ8--don't know the VIN offhand, but I believe it's
earlier than yours, having been built in late '66--is rigged per the
"new, supplied by Cape" setup. My distributor is rotated about
30 deg anticlockwise to yours.
Strange, why would Austin change something like this?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
Cc: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>; "Austin Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 1:49 AM
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
> In message <004e01c3c90c$d85a4150$3b110044@oemcomputer>, Keith Pennell
> <pennell@cox.net> writes
> >Jorge,
> >
> >Firing order is 153624
> >
> >As you stand on the dist side of the engine #1 plug wire should enter
> >the cap at the 1 o'clock position. Then count counterclockwise from
> >there.
> >
> >Keith Pennell
> >
> >
> >> I still can get my bj8 to start after replacing the spark plug wires. I
> >checked for spark and there was spark at all cylinders some stronger
> >than others. I removed the boots and re-screwed them into the wires. I
> >also compared the wire position on the distributor to pictures on Gary
> >Anderson and Roger Moment's book.
> >> I have the wires as follows:
> >> Top row - from the left standing facing the car- #2, Coil, #6.
> >> Bottom row -from left again - #3,#1,#5,and #4.
> >> Can someone comfirm that I have the wires connected to the correct spark
> >plug.
> >> Thanks
> >> Jorge
>
>
> I went through this hoop some months ago. To save time I got Cape to
> supply a loom with cap and plug caps, but, when it arrived, it was quite
> different from my original. Cape sent a length of cable, and I rebuilt
> the assembly to my original spec. All is explained here ....
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
> Make what you will of it!
>
> Merry Christmas to all.
>
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
> Webmaster for the Austin Healey Club - www.austin-healey-club.com
> Also the AHC Thames Valley Centre - www.austin-healey-club.co.uk
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 10:12:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
I went through this hoop some months ago. To save time I got Cape to
> supply a loom with cap and plug caps, but, when it arrived, it was quite
> different from my original. Cape sent a length of cable, and I rebuilt
> the assembly to my original spec. All is explained here ....
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Nice neat installation Alan.
The configuration Cape sent you suggests a setup someone did with the
distributor drive shaft (the one that meshes gears with the camshaft) turned
180 degrees from what the book states. If one positions #1 ready to fire (on
a 6 cylinder engine both valves fully closed and the valves on #6 just
rocking) the distributor drive slot should be at the twenty-to-two position.
Insert the distributor with the rotor contact facing the #1 contact position
on your cap. Normally this would be at about the 1 o'clock position when
looking down at the distributor from the right side of the car. Cape must
have had a distributor drive set up so #1 would have been at the 7 o'clock
position.
Rich Chrysler
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 10:14:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
Austin didn't change this. All 6's were the same. Some "mechanic" changed
the position of the distributor drive shaft. See my previous note to Alan
Cross.
Rich Chrysler
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:16:40 +0000
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
Steve at Cape could not explain why they had made it up to the pattern
they did, except to say that their guy must have used the wrong
reference chart - no mention of the possibility that they were right and
I was wrong! Perhaps the customer never is! My BJ8 is mid-'67.
Perhaps the change was made by Kurt Tanner before he sold it to my
importer?
Of course, Austin might have made the change if it resulted in the use
of one inch less wire!! ;-)
In message <00d401c3c960$21616420$0300a8c0@LEMANS>, Bob Spidell
<bspidell@pacbell.net> writes
>Alan, et al,
>
>
>FWIW, my BJ8--don't know the VIN offhand, but I believe it's
>earlier than yours, having been built in late '66--is rigged per the
>"new, supplied by Cape" setup. My distributor is rotated about
>30 deg anticlockwise to yours.
>
>Strange, why would Austin change something like this?
>
>
>bs
>********************************************
>Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
>'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
>********************************************
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
>To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@cox.net>
>Cc: "Jorge Garcia" <fortee9er@yahoo.com>; "Austin Healey"
><healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 1:49 AM
>Subject: Re: Spark plug wire position on a BJ8
>
>
>> In message <004e01c3c90c$d85a4150$3b110044@oemcomputer>, Keith Pennell
>> <pennell@cox.net> writes
>> >Jorge,
>> >
>> >Firing order is 153624
>> >
>> >As you stand on the dist side of the engine #1 plug wire should enter
>> >the cap at the 1 o'clock position. Then count counterclockwise from
>> >there.
>> >
>> >Keith Pennell
>> >
>> >
>> >> I still can get my bj8 to start after replacing the spark plug wires. I
>> >checked for spark and there was spark at all cylinders some stronger
>> >than others. I removed the boots and re-screwed them into the wires. I
>> >also compared the wire position on the distributor to pictures on Gary
>> >Anderson and Roger Moment's book.
>> >> I have the wires as follows:
>> >> Top row - from the left standing facing the car- #2, Coil, #6.
>> >> Bottom row -from left again - #3,#1,#5,and #4.
>> >> Can someone comfirm that I have the wires connected to the correct spark
>> >plug.
>> >> Thanks
>> >> Jorge
>>
>>
>> I went through this hoop some months ago. To save time I got Cape to
>> supply a loom with cap and plug caps, but, when it arrived, it was quite
>> different from my original. Cape sent a length of cable, and I rebuilt
>> the assembly to my original spec. All is explained here ....
>>
>> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>>
>> Make what you will of it!
>>
>> Merry Christmas to all.
>>
>> --
>> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
>> Webmaster for the Austin Healey Club - www.austin-healey-club.com
>> Also the AHC Thames Valley Centre - www.austin-healey-club.co.uk
>
--
Alan F Cross
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 09:42:03 -0600
Subject: RE: Smitty Clutch Disk NOW Gear shift lever
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 7:58 PM
To: James Sailer; Healeys
Subject: Re: Smitty Clutch Disk
> Also. I am looking for a shift lever and a yoke to go from the output
shaft to the driveshaft.. Toyota wants to GIVE me the shaft for these
parts and junk yards around here are less than cooperative.. (read that
they don't
want to help at all).
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Sailer
> 66 BJ8 - comin along
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 09:53:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Price of cars
Thanks
~S
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Minot" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: Price of cars
> OK, still Healeyin' after all these years:
>
> 1967- '59 Bugeye bought from my cousin for $350. Like
> crack, the first one's cheap so they get you hooked.
> My first car. Flintstone floorboards and aftermarket
> hardtop. Lots of fun, sold it a year later to two
> guys who just returned from a motorcycle trip from
> Boston to Alaska and back on a Royal Enfield and
> Norton Commander
>
> 1976- '59 Bugeye. Bought for $350, put about $10k
> into it. Great car, still runs strong. Most recently
> made the 800 mile round-trip to Sprite Spree.
>
> 1981 - BJ7 former SCCA race car for $6,000. 24,000
> miles on the clock Rust free body and chassis.
> Probably have $10,000 into it returning it to the
> street with new everything, triple HD8's, Isky cam,
> Lempert gears, Smitty 5 spd.
>
> 2003 - Healey-Jamaican. $1500 for a project car.
> This will be the bad boy. Small block Chev with more
> than 400 hp, probably Richmond 6 spd., and whatever
> else I can steal from the kid's college fund.
>
> Happy Healeydays,
> Rick Neville
>
> __________________________________
> New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 12:17:06 EST
Subject: Ignition system
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 11:13:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Smitty Clutch Disk
I asked the driveshaft guy about this at the time and he said it'll likely
last a couple hundred thousand miles. I'll be dead before my Healey
accomplishes that.
:-)
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: R5SPEED@aol.com
> Reply-To: R5SPEED@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 00:41:50 EST
> To: heliskier@direcway.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Smitty Clutch Disk
>
> JIM
> DO NOT USE TOYOTA SLIP YOKE SOME OF THEN YOU CANT REPLACE THE U JOINTS
> USE THE NUMDERS INTHE BOOK. THEY WILL WORK.
>
> SMITTY
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 11:16:07 -0800
Subject: Use of DMD speed equipment
From Dennis Currington <dc at datsuns.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 15:11:48 -0800
Subject: Healey Article
http://www.suntimes.com/output/auto/car-news-clas21.html
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
http://www.racerguy.com
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:42:22 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey Article
Yes it must be a slow news day in Chicago. However it wasn't a bad
article on the early Healeys although in car starved UK after WW2 the
Healeys did sell reasonably well.
I don't know where he got the figure of 781 Healeys built in total as
all records indicate there were 1,185.
A merry and safe Christmas to you all.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (1 of 1,185)
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (1 of 1)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Currington [mailto:dc@datsuns.net]
Sent: Wednesday, 24 December 2003 10:12 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Healey Article
Must be a slow news day in Chicago or a true Healey fan/writer. Nice to
see the name is still out there and of interest to those other than us
LBC lovers.
http://www.suntimes.com/output/auto/car-news-clas21.html
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 19:16:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Article
Bob Denton
Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>G'day
>
>Yes it must be a slow news day in Chicago. However it wasn't a bad
>article on the early Healeys although in car starved UK after WW2 the
>Healeys did sell reasonably well.
>
>I don't know where he got the figure of 781 Healeys built in total as
>all records indicate there were 1,185.
>
>A merry and safe Christmas to you all.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (1 of 1,185)
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (1 of 1)
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:21:05 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey Article
As we Australian's love to party we have two Christmas's.
It's Christmas Eve right now and much swimming, eating and merriment
will occur tomorrow (plus a rare visit to church). Then we do it again
for Christmas in July when it's a little colder and time to light the
fire.
We are not too keen on open fires during our summers.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, 24 December 2003 2:17 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Healey Article
You guys celebrate Christmas down there? Do you wait for winter, on do
it in December?
Bob Denton
Quinn, Patrick wrote:
>G'day
>
>Yes it must be a slow news day in Chicago. However it wasn't a bad
>article on the early Healeys although in car starved UK after WW2 the
>Healeys did sell reasonably well.
>
>I don't know where he got the figure of 781 Healeys built in total as
>all records indicate there were 1,185.
>
>A merry and safe Christmas to you all.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (1 of 1,185)
>1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (1 of 1)
>
>
>
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 16:50:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Jamaican
A Healey-Jamaican is a kit car of the late '60s. The
"Jamaican" body was produced by the Fiberfab company
and could be mounted on Triumph, MGA, or Healey
chassis. There was also a rear-engined version to
mount on a VW pan as well as a V-8 version with its
own chassis fabricated by Fiberfab. Here are a number
of pictures:
http://webpages.charter.net/dbcaudill/jampage.htm
The third one from the bottom was owned by Jim Werner
and is on his Healey website. Some of these cars were
built with the running gear of the donor car, whether
it was Triumph, MG, or Healey. The one I've purchased
has a Healey chassis but was fitted with a big block
396 c.i. Chevy motor and Muncie 4 spd. Sadly, the
drivetrain is long gone.
An interesting footnote is the body design was done by
Chris Beebe and had a number of Maserati overtones.
Constant R&T readers will recognize Chris' name as one
of Peter Egan's buds from Madison, WI. There were
approximately 350 Jamaican bodies built.
My car is a project car and it will be some time
before it's finished. I've wanted a V-8 Healey since
high school and this seemed like a good way to go
without having to cut up a restoreable Healey and
without all the usual Healey body rust to worry about.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> Interesting that you mention a Jamaican. I am sure I
> saw a bare Jamacan body
> while cruising on Sunday near home. I will check it
> out over the holidays.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Willis [mailto:ahpowered@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 7:54 AM
> To: James Minot; WilKo@aol.com;
> healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Price of cars
>
>
> What's a Healey-Jamaican? Photo?
>
> Thanks
> ~S
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Minot" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 4:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Price of cars
>
>
> > OK, still Healeyin' after all these years:
> >
> > 1967- '59 Bugeye bought from my cousin for $350.
> Like
> > crack, the first one's cheap so they get you
> hooked.
> > My first car. Flintstone floorboards and
> aftermarket
> > hardtop. Lots of fun, sold it a year later to two
> > guys who just returned from a motorcycle trip from
> > Boston to Alaska and back on a Royal Enfield and
> > Norton Commander
> >
> > 1976- '59 Bugeye. Bought for $350, put about $10k
> > into it. Great car, still runs strong. Most
> recently
> > made the 800 mile round-trip to Sprite Spree.
> >
> > 1981 - BJ7 former SCCA race car for $6,000. 24,000
> > miles on the clock Rust free body and chassis.
> > Probably have $10,000 into it returning it to the
> > street with new everything, triple HD8's, Isky
> cam,
> > Lempert gears, Smitty 5 spd.
> >
> > 2003 - Healey-Jamaican. $1500 for a project car.
> > This will be the bad boy. Small block Chev with
> more
> > than 400 hp, probably Richmond 6 spd., and
> whatever
> > else I can steal from the kid's college fund.
> >
> > Happy Healeydays,
> > Rick Neville
> >
> > __________________________________
> >
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
From James Minot <healeyrick at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:13:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
This car is located about 10 miles away from me. I
don't know Fred and have never seen the car. If you
are REALLY SERIOUSLY interested, I'll be happy to
eyeball it for you and give you an unbiased report.
I'm not the greatest Healey expert of all time, but I
can give you a good enough idea whether it's worth
your while to take a second look. Remember, it's the
holidays and I don't have a real desire to poke around
some mouse-infested Healey just so you can see what
kind of car 5 Gs will buy, but I'm willing to help out
somebody who really wants a new Healey under the
Christmas tree.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick Neville
--- Reid Trummel <editor_reid@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Team,
>
> Here's an opportunity that may be just what you've
> been looking for...
>
> Fred Nickerson of Groveland, Massachusetts needs to
> sell a 1962
> Austin-Healey 3000 Mark II (tri-carb) with the very
> desirable CENTER SHIFT
> transmission, as soon as possible. I have no
> first-hand knowledge of this
> car, but Fred reports that:
>
> -- Red with red interior.
> -- No hardtop.
> -- It runs great.
> -- It has been in his family since 1968.
> -- All gears work, including overdrive.
> -- Needs some rust repair.
> -- Last time registered was 1978, but it has been
> run, driven a few miles
> and serviced every summer.
> -- 75,000 miles on the odo.
> -- Always garaged.
> -- Has a brake fluid leak.
> -- Seller very motivated.
>
> I have seen a few lo-res photos of the car, and
> noted that the windscreen is
> not installed (Fred says he has it; I don't know why
> it was removed). It
> looked to me like there was "typical rust" in the
> rockers and doglegs, but
> the photos were dark, fuzzy and lo-res. My
> impression is that this car --
> while reportedly a running, driving, complete car --
> needs a total
> restoration.
>
> Fred mentioned a price of $5,000, which may be a
> REAL bargain if you want to
> undertake a frame-up restoration of a four-seat
> tri-carb. (Don't ever let
> anyone tell you that I don't pass along the good
> deals!)
>
> If interested, please contact Fred directly.
> Remember that he's in the
> Eastern Time Zone, but I spoke with him earlier and
> he is open to receiving
> late-ish calls:
>
> 508-397-3733
> freddinix@msn.com
>
> Good luck. Let's hope someone will give this car a
> good home and get it
> back on the road! And as my "finder's fee" I would
> appreciate a photo of
> the finished restoration for Austin-Healey Magazine!
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
>
__________________________________
New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing.
From robert.j.anderson at att.net
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 01:48:20 +0000
Subject: Seasons Greetings
I wish to send to each and everyone of you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New
Year.
May the road be kind to you and your Healey.
Jerry Anderson
1957 BN4 36381
Greensboro, NC
From James E Austin <ahbugeye1 at juno.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:00:55 -0500
Subject: Heater assembly(BJ7)
Sam Austin
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:21:33 -0500
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
Amateur Radio AI2Q
http://users.adelphia.net/~alexmm/ai2q.htm
.-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Minot
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 8:13 PM
To: Reid Trummel; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
OK Listers,
This car is located about 10 miles away from me. I
don't know Fred and have never seen the car. If you
are REALLY SERIOUSLY interested, I'll be happy to
eyeball it for you and give you an unbiased report.
I'm not the greatest Healey expert of all time, but I
can give you a good enough idea whether it's worth
your while to take a second look. Remember, it's the
holidays and I don't have a real desire to poke around
some mouse-infested Healey just so you can see what
kind of car 5 Gs will buy, but I'm willing to help out
somebody who really wants a new Healey under the
Christmas tree.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick Neville
From "Mike Brouillette" <m.brouillette at comcast.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:56:28 -0500
Subject: RE: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James Minot
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 8:13 PM
To: Reid Trummel; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 1962 AH 3000 Mark II - $5,000
OK Listers,
This car is located about 10 miles away from me. I
don't know Fred and have never seen the car. If you
are REALLY SERIOUSLY interested, I'll be happy to
eyeball it for you and give you an unbiased report.
I'm not the greatest Healey expert of all time, but I
can give you a good enough idea whether it's worth
your while to take a second look. Remember, it's the
holidays and I don't have a real desire to poke around
some mouse-infested Healey just so you can see what
kind of car 5 Gs will buy, but I'm willing to help out
somebody who really wants a new Healey under the
Christmas tree.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick Neville
--- Reid Trummel <editor_reid@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Team,
>
> Here's an opportunity that may be just what you've
> been looking for...
>
> Fred Nickerson of Groveland, Massachusetts needs to
> sell a 1962
> Austin-Healey 3000 Mark II (tri-carb) with the very
> desirable CENTER SHIFT
> transmission, as soon as possible. I have no
> first-hand knowledge of this
> car, but Fred reports that:
>
> -- Red with red interior.
> -- No hardtop.
> -- It runs great.
> -- It has been in his family since 1968.
> -- All gears work, including overdrive.
> -- Needs some rust repair.
> -- Last time registered was 1978, but it has been
> run, driven a few miles
> and serviced every summer.
> -- 75,000 miles on the odo.
> -- Always garaged.
> -- Has a brake fluid leak.
> -- Seller very motivated.
>
> I have seen a few lo-res photos of the car, and
> noted that the windscreen is
> not installed (Fred says he has it; I don't know why
> it was removed). It
> looked to me like there was "typical rust" in the
> rockers and doglegs, but
> the photos were dark, fuzzy and lo-res. My
> impression is that this car --
> while reportedly a running, driving, complete car --
> needs a total
> restoration.
>
> Fred mentioned a price of $5,000, which may be a
> REAL bargain if you want to
> undertake a frame-up restoration of a four-seat
> tri-carb. (Don't ever let
> anyone tell you that I don't pass along the good
> deals!)
>
> If interested, please contact Fred directly.
> Remember that he's in the
> Eastern Time Zone, but I spoke with him earlier and
> he is open to receiving
> late-ish calls:
>
> 508-397-3733
> freddinix@msn.com
>
> Good luck. Let's hope someone will give this car a
> good home and get it
> back on the road! And as my "finder's fee" I would
> appreciate a photo of
> the finished restoration for Austin-Healey Magazine!
>
> Reid
>
> Reid Trummel
> Portland, Oregon
> 100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 22:29:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater assembly(BJ7)
It has been a while since I assembled the heater but I found the same thing
as you. On one occasion I got two pieces of large cross section O ring from
a plumber friend and did a little whittling to get the outer edge thin.
They fit nicely when put in and tightened down.
On the second occasion (my BN7) I picked up two O rings from Lowe's for
about $1 and installed them. When you tighten the two screws the ring
compresses and the outer rim becomes thinner as you describe. Would
probably be a good idea to retighten them after say 6 months.
Keith Pennell
> I am in the process of putting my heater together and need help. My
> instruction is coming from the Moss catalog that shows two O-rings (moss
> part # 282-760). The picture shows one of the rings located on the water
> inlet nozzle of the radiator and the other one outside of the heater box
> top. It looks like, according to the picture, that this o-ring goes
> between the heater value adaptor and the heater box top. I don't think
> that is possible as the adapter mounts to the top with a metal washer.
> The PO who took my car apart left a rubber o-ring on the radiator inlet
> nozzle, but it doesn't look like the Moss o-rings. It is about 3/16 inch
> thick and comes to a point at the outside edge. The shape of the o-ring
> looks like it was made to fit between the heater value adaptor and heater
> control value. I have the two o-rings but I'm not sure what to do with
> them. I will appreciate your help.
>
> Sam Austin
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:02:09 -0500
Subject: D Jag on eBay
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:13:25 -0800
Subject: Healey Birthday Surpirse a HUGE Success!!!
Now she has one.
Thanks for all the help finding one. And thanks for all the bits of
info on sorting it out. It drive great and looks wonderful!
We surprised he on her birthday last Sunday.
She was speechless! (But she did say I could drive it whenever I want).
Brian N
Capitola, CA
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora1.jpg
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 21:26:54 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Holiday Greetings
From Bob T <btarh2o at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 23:49:55 -0600
Subject: ASK SMITTY-- Was Smitty Clutch Disk
R5SPEED@aol.com wrote:
>JIM
> DO NOT USE TOYOTA SLIP YOKE SOME OF THEN YOU CANT REPLACE THE U JOINTS
> USE THE NUMDERS INTHE BOOK. THEY WILL WORK.
>
> SMITTY
From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 07:01:37 -0500
Subject: Merry Christmas
Bob Johnson
BJ8
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 06:50:01 -0600
Subject: SEASON'S GREETINGS
From "David Masucci" <dmasucci at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:48:20 -0500
Subject: Happy Holidays Everyone!
From James Sailer <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 08:05:44 -0700
Subject: Thanks Re: SMITTY Conversion
I have installed the uprated front shocks in my car along with a Cape
International rose jointed 7/8 sway bar... working on the rear tube
(adjustable) shock conversion and (BJ8) rear lowering right now...
Next rip the exhaust system off for the 3rd time to refit something I don't
like .... I have also fabricated a rear license plate bracket that attaches
to the rear bumper and hangs below the bumper (versus using the original "On
bumper BJ8 bracket.") It includes a license plate lamp also.. powder coated
etc...(and yess I am going to excess...).. but heck.. its only a project...
and I am nearing the end ....
Well.. Best to you all for Christmas..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
PS: and yes Ed, I owe you a reply... hopefully later today...
From "Dr. Carl Rubino" <ruvino at ripnet.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:22:48 -0500
Subject: heater hoses
My car was restored 15 years ago, one year before I bought it. I assume that
new heater hoses were used. How long should they last before considering
replacement? How do you tell if they need replacement?
Any thoughts would be appreciated so that I can rid myself of this terrible
vision.
Carl
BN-4(L)-1957
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 09:25:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Jamaican
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Minot" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>; "'Scott Willis'"
<ahpowered@hotmail.com>; <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Jerry'" <grumpyingb@surewest.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 6:50 PM
Subject: RE: Jamaican
> Scott,
>
> A Healey-Jamaican is a kit car of the late '60s. The
> "Jamaican" body was produced by the Fiberfab company
> and could be mounted on Triumph, MGA, or Healey
> chassis. There was also a rear-engined version to
> mount on a VW pan as well as a V-8 version with its
> own chassis fabricated by Fiberfab. Here are a number
> of pictures:
>
> http://webpages.charter.net/dbcaudill/jampage.htm
>
> The third one from the bottom was owned by Jim Werner
> and is on his Healey website. Some of these cars were
> built with the running gear of the donor car, whether
> it was Triumph, MG, or Healey. The one I've purchased
> has a Healey chassis but was fitted with a big block
> 396 c.i. Chevy motor and Muncie 4 spd. Sadly, the
> drivetrain is long gone.
>
> An interesting footnote is the body design was done by
> Chris Beebe and had a number of Maserati overtones.
> Constant R&T readers will recognize Chris' name as one
> of Peter Egan's buds from Madison, WI. There were
> approximately 350 Jamaican bodies built.
>
> My car is a project car and it will be some time
> before it's finished. I've wanted a V-8 Healey since
> high school and this seemed like a good way to go
> without having to cut up a restoreable Healey and
> without all the usual Healey body rust to worry about.
>
> Happy Healeydays,
> Rick
>
>
>
> --- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> > Interesting that you mention a Jamaican. I am sure I
> > saw a bare Jamacan body
> > while cruising on Sunday near home. I will check it
> > out over the holidays.
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Scott Willis [mailto:ahpowered@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 7:54 AM
> > To: James Minot; WilKo@aol.com;
> > healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Price of cars
> >
> >
> > What's a Healey-Jamaican? Photo?
> >
> > Thanks
> > ~S
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "James Minot" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
> > To: <WilKo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 4:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: Price of cars
> >
> >
> > > OK, still Healeyin' after all these years:
> > >
> > > 1967- '59 Bugeye bought from my cousin for $350.
> > Like
> > > crack, the first one's cheap so they get you
> > hooked.
> > > My first car. Flintstone floorboards and
> > aftermarket
> > > hardtop. Lots of fun, sold it a year later to two
> > > guys who just returned from a motorcycle trip from
> > > Boston to Alaska and back on a Royal Enfield and
> > > Norton Commander
> > >
> > > 1976- '59 Bugeye. Bought for $350, put about $10k
> > > into it. Great car, still runs strong. Most
> > recently
> > > made the 800 mile round-trip to Sprite Spree.
> > >
> > > 1981 - BJ7 former SCCA race car for $6,000. 24,000
> > > miles on the clock Rust free body and chassis.
> > > Probably have $10,000 into it returning it to the
> > > street with new everything, triple HD8's, Isky
> > cam,
> > > Lempert gears, Smitty 5 spd.
> > >
> > > 2003 - Healey-Jamaican. $1500 for a project car.
> > > This will be the bad boy. Small block Chev with
> > more
> > > than 400 hp, probably Richmond 6 spd., and
> > whatever
> > > else I can steal from the kid's college fund.
> > >
> > > Happy Healeydays,
> > > Rick Neville
> > >
> > > __________________________________
> > >
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
> http://companion.yahoo.com/
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 07:51:05 -0800
Subject: Healey in Ad
The shot's a little grainy, but you can see the Healey. Anybody
wants the pic send me an email and I'll send you the file.
Amazing where these cars pop up.
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:33:47 EST
Subject: Re: heater hoses
I know that because I am the original owner. It has 80000 miles, and, it did
have a 13 year lay-up. But, lets make it worse - the upper still has an
"emergency" repair made with (LOTS) of electrical tape during a rally in the
sixties
- never leaked, so, though I later carried spares for years, have never put
them on. Foolish? Yes. But it is a fact, nonetheless. Now that I am restoring
it to daily reliability, hoses (NOW they seep a bit) are one of my next chores.
I am well aware that I should NEVER have done what I did, but, the hoses held
up.
Merry Christmas to all!!!!!
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 11:13:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Calipers and re-sleeving
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tomfelts@earthlink.net>
To: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>; "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>;
"Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Calipers and re-sleeving
> Murrysville Pa?? I live a few miles from there and do not know anything
> about them. Can you send me some info---address, etc?
>
> Thanks
> Tom
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Tim Davis <tld6008@mchsi.com>
> > To: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>; Healey
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Date: 12/19/03 7:34:49 PM
> > Subject: Re: Calipers and re-sleeving
> >
> > If those are the original MASTER cylinders I would not hesitate to buy
new
> > ones, unless you have some sentimental attachment to them. I just bought
a
> > clutch MASTER cylinder rather than rebuild it again. I still haven't got
> the
> > piston out of the old one, it just decided to freeze up. I bought it
from
> > British Sportscar Restorations in Murrysville, PA for $55. They are a
Moss
> > dristributor.
> >
> > Tim Davis BN7
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2003 6:18 PM
> > Subject: Calipers and re-sleeving
> >
> >
> > > OK so I sent off my calipers to a recomended guy. He had to use heat
to
> > get
> > > the pistons out. They would not budge. I Used C-clamps, compressed air
> > etc.
> > > Nothing moved.
> > >
> > > I also sent him my masters and slave (I like saying that). He said it
> > would
> > > be best to buy new. I told him I thought sleeving would last forever.
He
> > > said new will last a great amount of time and these old masters and
> slave
> > > look bad on the outside. I thought they just looked dirty.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts before I make a decision?
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Scott
> > > Mashed 60 BN7
> > > 59 MGA
> > > 73 Bonnie
From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:16:30 EST
Subject: Re: Tis the season
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:22:26 EST
Subject: Re: Tis the season
Here's the e-card I made for this year featuring my cat Jack.
Happy holidays, Shabbat Shalom, etc.
Rick
San Diego
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 09:54:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos - Get your photo on the big screen in Times Square
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:00:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Tis the season
Here is a picture I made a few years ago for Christmas cards when I still
had the Sprite!!!
http://carport.virtualave.net/67sprite/santasprite.gif
BTW, if you had my Spridget site bookmarked, it will be shutting down next
week, all of the Sprite content will be on my new site, austin-healeys.com
Patton
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Jon McLeroy <jfm at spyderinternet.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 12:13:01 -0600
Subject: Merry Christmas
A Very Merry Christmas and a more prosperous and Happy New Year.
May God Bless Us All.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@spyderinternet.com
www.classicautolubes.com
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by our MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
From Brian N <brian at beachcitygas.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:24:48 -0800
Subject: Merry Christmas to all--And a happy Healey New Year!!
May you enjoy the roads, the friends, and the places our cars take us.
And keep the shiny side up.
Brian and Linda
Capitola, CA
http://www.beachcitygas.com/ixora.jpg
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 14:44:18 -0500
Subject: Happy Holidays
'Twas The Night Before a Healey Christmas
'Twas the night before Christmas, and I was certain
not a Healey was stirring, even with side curtains.
The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
in hopes that new parts soon would be there.
The Healeys were nestled all snug in their sheds,
While owners sweet dreamed of summer ahead.
Some up on blocks, some in car covers,
some donating parts for the benefit of others.
When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew in a flash,
tore open the shutter, and threw up the sash.
The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
gave the luster of midday to objects below,
when, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
but eight tiny Sprites pulling a 3000 this year!
With the driver enveloped in smoke so thick
I could barely tell it was old Saint Nick.
Chugging and popping, his coursers they came,
and he whistled and shouted and called them by name:
On Bugeyes, On Sprites, that I keep fixin,
or next year its back to Comet and Vixen!
Hmm, Healeys or Reindeer, he thought while stopping,
they both have merits, and they both have droppings.
As dry leaves before the wild hurricane fly,
when they meet with an obstacle, mount to the sky
So up to the housetops the little Sprites flew,
the 3000 shedding parts, as they all will do.
And then in a twinkle, I heard on the spire
the squealing and slipping of each little tire.
I knew as I heard their Yuletide jingles,
I was going to have well oiled shingles!
He was dressed all in fur, from toe to ear,
a bad choice in a Healey, even this time of year!
Sweating profusely, he jumped from his ride
and down the chimney with gifts at his side.
His eyes how they twinkled, still teary from smoke.
His face regained color, as he thought with a joke,
the Healeys are fun but look at my clothes,
what once was red, is now black rose!
And where is my trademark round little belly
that shook when I laughed like a bowl full of jelly?
Always there proudly as I made the rounds,
now, one night in a Healey and I've lost forty pounds!
Less chubby and plump, but still a jolly old elf
I laughed when I saw him; I drive a Healey myself.
A wink of his eye and a twist of his head
soon gave me to know I had nothing to dread.
He spoke not a word, but Healey parts he did toss
from Welch, Cape, Realey, and Moss.
All the stockings were filled and he turned to reflect,
I sure hope I got those part numbers correct!
Up the chimney he rose, Healeys waiting to depart,
he said the Healey prayer: "Lord please let them start".
I was amazed when they started on the first try,
and like the down of a thistle away they did fly.
But I heard him exclaim 'ere he drove out of sight,
"Healey Christmas to all, and to all a good night!"
Tom Mulligan
AHSTC
12/24/2003
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:05:06 EST
Subject: Re: Tis the season
> Wishing you all a "Mele Kalikimaka" from the middle of the Pacific.
>
And happy kwanza to you as well!
Best--Michael
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:16:53 -0500
Subject: Merry Xmas and happy holidays
Merry Xmas to all.
Bill and Joan Pollock
CT
From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 18:34:35 -0800
Subject: Greetings
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND GOD BLESS YOU MAJOR DOMO !
Ray Juncal
Toot toot !
From "Big Sixer" <healey at ledwith.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 21:31:36 -0500
Subject: Merry Christmas From Connecticut!
Merry Christmas!
http://www.ledwith.com/ryan/christ2.jpg (picture of the house in the snow)
Ryan
BJ7
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 20:33:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Tis the season
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7 at verizon.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 22:07:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Jamaican
I had heard once that Datsun had used some of the Jamaican styling for
the 240Z, but don't know if that's true, as they had also used a Healey
3000 for test and engineering cues. (Some say that's why the 240-280
Z-car engine swap is so easy on a 3000.
Dave
From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 09:09:17 -0000
Subject: Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year from Scotland.
>From me ("the Wishor") to you ("hereinafter called the Wishee")
Please accept without obligation, implied or implicit, my best wishes
for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, politically
correct, low stress, non-addictive, gender neutral, celebration of the
winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions
of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of
your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasions and/or
traditions of others, or their choice not to practice religious or
secular traditions at all, and a financially successful, personally
fulfilling, work/life balanced and medically uncomplicated recognition
of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2004, but with due
respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures or sects, and
having regard to the race, creed, colour, age, physical ability,
religious faith, choice of computer platform or dietary preference of
the Wishee.
By accepting this greeting you are bound by these terms that-
This greeting is subject to further clarification or withdrawal
This greeting is freely transferable provided that no alteration shall
be made to the original greeting and that the proprietary rights of the
Wishor are acknowledged.
This greeting implies no promise by the Wishor to actually implement
any of the wishes.
This greeting may not be enforceable in certain jurisdictions and/or
the restrictions herein may not be binding upon certain Wishees in
certain jurisdictions and is revocable at the sole discretion of the
Wishor.
This greeting is warranted to perform as reasonably may be expected
within the usual application of good tidings, for a period of one year
or until the issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes
first.
The Wishor warrants this greeting only for the limited replacement of
this wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole discretion of the
Wishor.
Any references in this greeting to "the Lord", "Father Christmas", "Our
Saviour", or any other festive figures, whether actual or fictitious,
dead or alive, shall not imply any endorsement by or from them in
respect of this greeting, and all proprietary rights in any referenced
third party names and images are hereby acknowledged.
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 05:48:08 EST
Subject: Happy Christmas
From "Peter Linn" <greylinn at ozemail.com.au>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 21:35:45 +1000
Subject: Antipodeam season's greetings
We only have couple of hours of Christmas day to go - it's been 35 deg C under
the patio - too hot & humid so stayed in the aircon. for the prawns & ham.
All the very best to Healey listers around the world.
Peter Linn
Brisbane
BN1 Ward Spl
PS got the Heritage Certificate for the car's original incarnation on
Christmas eve - a black with red RHD export model, built 27 January 1955 - no
heater!
From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 06:32:56 -0800
Subject: Merry Christmas to all.
And, Mr. Patrick Quinn, as usual we'll all be waiting for your report of
the first Healey drive in the new year.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
PS: It's currently raining here in "sunny Southern California"! :-(
From =?iso-8859-1?q?Rafael=20Abugattas?= <rafaelabugattas at yahoo.es>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 16:41:08 +0100 (CET)
Subject: Greetings from Lima !
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sorteos
!Ya puedes comprar Loterma de Navidad!
From "Bob, Kim, Rob, Bandit and Pepper" <thewalkers at qwest.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 10:09:39 -0700
Subject: test - please delete (have a new ISP)
From "Ronald Yates" <dipstickdigest at mohaveaz.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 17:29:54 -0000 (PST)
Subject: Christmas from Purgatory Gulch
The weather here is quite nice today. Everybody is out doing things in
their yards, washing cars, walking the family pet, kids riding their new
bikes, etc.. The usual neighborhood stuff.
Heather is in her soon to be 17th year of restoration and progressing
nicely. The chassis is in color with some small areas to touch up, then
it's suspension time!
Beep and Beep-Beep (our resident Road runners) have been by for their
Christmas Cheer already this morning. It's hoped that Whitworth, our club
mascot Jackalope will make an appearance. That's really being optimistic
because he went missing a while back when the new development began down
the road. We hoped he would be back by now or at least check in to let us
know what he's been doing and how his new little bunny friend is. That's
kids for you. Right?
I hope this finds you all well, in good spirit, with your families and
loved ones.
And a special Christmas greeting to those who can't be home this day and
having to spend the holidays in harms way. God Bless you one and all.
All the best for this day and the new year not far away.
Ron Yates, Editor
The Dipstick Digest
Newsletter of the World's Smallest Austin-Healey Club
The Arizona Social Society of a Healey Owner and Latent Entrepreneur
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 10:29:06 -0800
Subject: Merry Christmas...
From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 14:31:48 EST
Subject: Merry Christmas...
>From sunny St. Petersburg, FL (60F). Great top down Healey driving weather.
(I just had to rub that in a bit.)
Marion & Kay Brantley
From "Kent McLean" <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 18:29:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey Article
> We are not too keen on open fires during our summers.
That's news to me. Didn't you guys try to burn
down Sydney just last summer? Or was that
2 summers ago?
"Put another shrimp on the barbie" indeed.
Kent, a Yank who has had the pleasure of visiting Sydney and Melbourne
'56 100 BN2
From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 19:35:05 EST
Subject: D-Jag for sale
In a message dated 12/25/03 1:13:31 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
writes:
>
> Just checked the listing and see that it is now over $1 million. Reserve
> still not met. Wow.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 20:11:05 -0800
Subject: Re: D-Jag for sale
Bob Denton (feeling quite grounded after a fabulous white Christmas and
the accompanying dinner.)
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>I finally looked at the listing on this car. It's being sold by Terry Larson,
>who is the keeper of the Registry for C, D, and XK-SS Jaguars, so there would
>be no question about its authenticity. Possibly helping out someone who
>doesn't want to pay the costs of putting it through an auction. My guess would
>be a
>reserve of $1,250,000.
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>
>In a message dated 12/25/03 1:13:31 AM, owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
>writes:
>
>
>
>
>>Just checked the listing and see that it is now over $1 million. Reserve
>>still not met. Wow.
>>
>>John Sims, BN6
>>Aberdeen, NJ
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 21:13:53 -0500
Subject: RE: D-Jag for sale
> [Original Message]
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/25/03 7:36:20 PM
> Subject: D-Jag for sale
>
> I finally looked at the listing on this car. It's being sold by Terry
Larson,
> who is the keeper of the Registry for C, D, and XK-SS Jaguars, so there
would
> be no question about its authenticity. Possibly helping out someone who
> doesn't want to pay the costs of putting it through an auction. My guess
would be a
> reserve of $1,250,000.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
>
> In a message dated 12/25/03 1:13:31 AM,
owner-healeys-digest@autox.team.net
> writes:
>
>
> >
> > Just checked the listing and see that it is now over $1 million.
Reserve
> > still not met. Wow.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
From "Esko & Megan Cate" <enmcate at comcast.net>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 22:26:31 -0800
Subject: RE: Merry Christmas...
Esko
BJ7
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 13:48:13 -0600
Subject: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Are there any tricks? First I thought they would not come out because the car
was on stands and there was too much angle. Now I've lowered the car and they
will not budge. I've been banging etc.. I am affraid to hit anything too hard
wth the dead blow hammer. I don't want to bugger the threads on the bolts or
bend a rod.
Hmmmm....
thanks for any suggestions..
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Tim Davis" <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 17:12:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Pickle forks are not expensive if you want to buy one, but your local
Autzone/Advance type parts store might even loan you one (mine did).
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Willis
To: Lists, Healey
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2003 2:48 PM
Subject: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Happy after Christmas!
OK so I have turned another 1 hour project into an all day affair...I
cannot
get the ball ends out of their connecting rod holes (cannot take suspension
side rods apart or off car).
Are there any tricks? First I thought they would not come out because the
car
was on stands and there was too much angle. Now I've lowered the car and
they
will not budge. I've been banging etc.. I am affraid to hit anything too
hard
wth the dead blow hammer. I don't want to bugger the threads on the bolts
or
bend a rod.
Hmmmm....
thanks for any suggestions..
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
From "Tom O'Brien" <tomobrien at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 14:11:35 -0800
Subject: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
> Happy after Christmas!
> OK so I have turned another 1 hour project into an all day affair...I
cannot
> get the ball ends out of their connecting rod holes (cannot take
suspension
> side rods apart or off car).
>
> Are there any tricks? First I thought they would not come out because the
car
> was on stands and there was too much angle. Now I've lowered the car and
they
> will not budge. I've been banging etc.. I am affraid to hit anything too
hard
> wth the dead blow hammer. I don't want to bugger the threads on the bolts
or
> bend a rod.
>
> Hmmmm....
>
> thanks for any suggestions..
>
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
>
Scott, Check out a simple suspension tool that you can make with about
$3.00 worth of nuts and bolts from any hardware store. The tool is
described in the March 2004 issue of SuperChevy magazine and may be on their
website www.superchevy-web.com. The tool was originally put together by
Brent VenDervort of a company called Fat Man Fabrications, they make hot
rod suspension and chassis pieces. Good Luck
Tom O'Brien
1955 BN-1 and
1962 Chevy Impala 409
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 16:45:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 17:49:10 -0500
Subject: nash healey on ebay
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 18:18:54 -0500
Subject: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
> Happy after Christmas!
> OK so I have turned another 1 hour project into an all day affair...I
cannot
> get the ball ends out of their connecting rod holes (cannot take
suspension
> side rods apart or off car).
>
> Are there any tricks? First I thought they would not come out because the
car
> was on stands and there was too much angle. Now I've lowered the car and
they
> will not budge. I've been banging etc.. I am affraid to hit anything too
hard
> wth the dead blow hammer. I don't want to bugger the threads on the bolts
or
> bend a rod.
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 18:59:18 -0600
Subject: web page update
The Team Thicko website is undergoing a major reconstruction (yeah, I
know... about time).
I'm accepting... well, soliciting... well, begging for interesting articles,
experiences, race reports, rare car stories, and any sexual experiences that
include a barn animal and a dwarf (that way Craig "Fast Eddie Haskell Bielat
can contribute...).
I need pictures as well. (not just of the dwarf & goat, Craig...)
Also, if you have a web site that you'd like to have a mutual link, let me
know.
WST
Flounder
Team Thicko
From R5SPEED at aol.com
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 21:21:39 EST
Subject: Re: ASK SMITTY-- Was Smitty Clutch Disk
From Dennis Currington <dc at datsuns.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 21:56:40 -0800
Subject: A 3000 competes in 50th Anniv. East African Rally
Does anyone know if this is one of the ex-factory racers?
50 Hans Zaalberg
Paul Maaskant
Peter Stone NL
NL
EAK Austin Healey 3000
http://www.eastafricansafarirally.com/info_pages/photo_gallery.html
* Overall Results*
Rob Collinge Datsun 240Z 17hr 42min
42sec
Frederic Dor Porsche 911 18hr 30min 37sec
Stuart Rolt Porsche 911 19hr 08min 31sec
Andrew Barnes Ford Escort 19hr 35min 50sec
Bruce Field Porsche 911 19hr 40min 33sec
Iain Freestone Ford Mexico 19hr 46min 57sec
Ray Bellm Ford Escort 21hr 00min 33sec
Wolfgang Pfeiffer Porsche 911 21hr 12min 56sec
Anthony Ward Ford Escort 21hr 22min 44sec
Paul-Eric Jarry Porsche 911 21hr 49min 24sec
--
Dennis Currington
San Diego
http://www.datsuns.net
http://www.racerguy.com
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 16:07:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 08:13:52 -0500
Subject: deal of the century
I don't know who "Harold Dreamsonwheels" is, but he's got some set of ball
joints. see for yourself at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2450592720&sspa
gename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1
Happy New Year all
Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Charles Braum" <cbaustin at verizon.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 09:10:33 -0500
Subject: Re: deal of the century
CB
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 07:38:42 -0700
Subject: TR3 restoration pictures needed
Frogeye@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'62 BT7 MK II, '54 BN1, '62 Fiat 1600S
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.html
From "Michael Shepard" <shepard7107 at msn.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 10:01:57 -0500
Subject: Clausager Book
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 10:20:01 EST
Subject: Re: deal of the century
> Here is an interesting variation on the parts car theme. seller offers on
> Ebay
> a barn full of Healeys
Well, it's a nice looking barn....
Best--Michael Oritt
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Untitled01]
From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 10:45:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Front susspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 09:26:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Front suspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Happy New Year to all
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 11:41:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Clausager Book
Tim Davis BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Shepard" <shepard7107@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2003 9:01 AM
Subject: Clausager Book
> Looks like he wants 25 bucks for a book you can buy new from Amazon for
> $17.50 ....... this guy has some different stuff but his prices are too
> high. Anybody out there need the Flight Instruction Guide for their P-38 ?
From "Scott Willis" <ahpowered at hotmail.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 12:03:46 -0600
Subject: Hmmm...side rods, idlers, ball joints...
I plan to straighten the bent side rod and re-use both. The car is supposed
to have 26k on the clock and the ball joints feel snug. I suppose there is a
chance of a rod breaking which could send me and the Healey hurling off a
cliff to an untimely death. Hmmmm.
Cheers,
Scott
Mashed 60 BN7
from spreading apart while tensioning. Don't remember where I got it but the
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 12:59:17 -0600
Subject: Hmmm...side rods, idlers, ball joints...
> OK I turned a 1 hour job into a two day affair. The joint separator I
bought
> was just a bit too wide. It would not grip. I banged the pickle fork with
my
> dead blow hammer until I had a bruised hand. Much more Liquid Wrench and
> banging...I got one side rod off! Yea! This morning I used a sledge hammer
> on the other side. It came off after many hearty blows. Yea! Then I
noticed
> that the side rod is bent and I gnarled the flat surface area on both the
> side rods where the rubber seal covers. I cannot imagine someone skilled
> enough to do this without damaging the rubber seals. WHAM! WHAM! YIKES!
>
> I plan to straighten the bent side rod and re-use both. The car is
supposed
> to have 26k on the clock and the ball joints feel snug. I suppose there is
a
> chance of a rod breaking which could send me and the Healey hurling off a
> cliff to an untimely death. Hmmmm.
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
> Mashed 60 BN7
From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 11:20:30 -0800
Subject: Triplex Windshields !
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>ProSource Glass International, located in the Boston, MA area is one of
>>the leading automotive glass companies specializing in antique, classic
>>and special interest vehicles. Our family business, Lo-Can Glass
>>International was sold after 49 years of the same ownership. ProSource,
>>our new company is a blend of the old and the new - extensive product
>>knowledge from selling thousands of British glass parts over the decades
>>to a stronger emphasis on customer care with the follow-up you expect
>>from a great company.
>>
Austin Healey 100-4 cylinder: $195 clear each (Part No. FW005)
> >>Austin Healey 100-6/early 3000: $170 clear each (Part No.FW006)
> >> $187 green tint each option
> >>Austin Healey 3000 BJ7/BJ8: $179 clear each (Part No. FW155)
> >> $197 green tint each
>option<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
thanks,
Lou
San Diego, CA
bn1
From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 14:18:34 EST
Subject: Re: Front suspension cross rods, idlers, and the like...
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
From "John Trifari" <jtrifari at comcast.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 11:31:32 -0800
Subject: January 2004 Golden Gate Hhealey Happenings
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of JANUARY_2004.pdf]
From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 15:32:16 -0500
Subject: for sale-toyota pu
I have a 1987 Toyota two wheel drive pu which is for sale until this
coming Monday afternoon. At that time it will go to a dealer as a
tradein for a new pu. It has a 5 speed tranny with 111,000 miles on it
and is totally funtional and in good working order. If interested
contact me directly. Will not part out. Asking price is what the
dealer is allowing as a trade figure.
Vehicle is driveable although I would not suggest a cross coun try trip.
Bill Pollock
Old Saybrook CT
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Scott Willis" <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: "Lists, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 16:43:13 -0600
Subject: Valve adj. self locking nut
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 17:46:29 -0500
Subject: deal of the century
> Here is an interesting variation on the parts car theme. seller offers on
Ebay
> a barn full of Healeys ... a gutted BJ8 w/o engine, the other a Mark I
> rustranger, and a bunch of body parts hanging from the rafters, half
visible
> in 5 dingy shots. offers the whole menagerie for the low, low opening of
> $18,000. The listing ends with " PLEASE DO NOT ENOY ME WITH QUESTIONS, BID
> FIRST AND THEN ASK - SO I KNOW YOU ARE A SERIOUS BIDDER,WILL THEN MAKE
> INVENTORY, I LET YOU CAN CANCEL YOUR BID."
>
> I don't know who "Harold Dreamsonwheels" is, but he's got some set of ball
> joints. see for yourself at
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2450592720&sspa
> gename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1
>
> Happy New Year all
> Allen Miller BN2/M
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 18:04:45 -0500
Subject: BN2 steering idler
allen miller BN2/M
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 18:07:22 -0500
Subject: D Jag on Ebay
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 15:24:13 -0800
Subject: Bonnet rattle
The only thing that I can see might be causing this are two spring
washers on either side of the clevis pin that may have given up the
ghost; however, I'm having a hard time believing this since the
rattle came on suddenly. If I shake the hinge and can hear and feel
metal hitting metal, but nothing seems amiss.
Anybody else had a bonnet hinge rattle and, if so, what's the fix?
If it is the spring washers, anybody have a source (the usual suspects
don't show them)?
TIA,
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 20:04:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Bonnet rattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2003 6:24 PM
Subject: Bonnet rattle
> My beloved scuttle shake is now being accompanied by a new
> rattle that seems to be coming from the bonnet hinge. The parts
> book and catalogs show this to be a simple sickle-shaped assembly
> that pivots on a clevis pin behind the scuttle and bolts up to the
> bonnet with two bolts.
>
> The only thing that I can see might be causing this are two spring
> washers on either side of the clevis pin that may have given up the
> ghost; however, I'm having a hard time believing this since the
> rattle came on suddenly. If I shake the hinge and can hear and feel
> metal hitting metal, but nothing seems amiss.
>
> Anybody else had a bonnet hinge rattle and, if so, what's the fix?
> If it is the spring washers, anybody have a source (the usual suspects
> don't show them)?
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 18:02:25 -0800
Subject: Re: deal of the century
BMC Classics
New Smyrna Beach, Florida
Anyone know this guy??
Terry Blubaugh
Southern California
Rich C wrote:
>Pretty scary stuff. I see some XK Jaguar stuff mixed in there too. A red
>front right wing and a right side door are XK. One would certainly need to
>have a careful inventory before dealing with this clown.
>Rich Chrysler
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2003 8:13 AM
>Subject: deal of the century
>
>
>
>
>>Here is an interesting variation on the parts car theme. seller offers on
>>
>>
>Ebay
>
>
>>a barn full of Healeys ... a gutted BJ8 w/o engine, the other a Mark I
>>rustranger, and a bunch of body parts hanging from the rafters, half
>>
>>
>visible
>
>
>>in 5 dingy shots. offers the whole menagerie for the low, low opening of
>>$18,000. The listing ends with " PLEASE DO NOT ENOY ME WITH QUESTIONS, BID
>>FIRST AND THEN ASK - SO I KNOW YOU ARE A SERIOUS BIDDER,WILL THEN MAKE
>>INVENTORY, I LET YOU CAN CANCEL YOUR BID."
>>
>>I don't know who "Harold Dreamsonwheels" is, but he's got some set of ball
>>joints. see for yourself at
>>
>>
>>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2450592720&sspa
>
>
>>gename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1
>>
>>Happy New Year all
>>Allen Miller BN2/M
From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at suscom.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 21:03:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Hmmm...side rods, idlers, ball joints...
> http://www.triple-c.com/Page.cfm
If the link doesn't work shorten it to http://www.triple-c.com and use
the search feature for Draper. There are cheaper ones out there of this
type, but I know this one works. You may also want to check out the
rest of Triple-C's site. They cater to the British car hobby with
clothing and model cars mostly, with a few tools thrown in. The owner
is British and brings many things over from the UK, perhaps including
the Draper tools. I found them also at a British site, try:
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tools.asp?parent=2I995P1192M0
Charlie Baldwin
'62 BT7 tricarb
Scott Willis wrote:
>OK I turned a 1 hour job into a two day affair. The joint separator I bought
>was just a bit too wide. It would not grip. I banged the pickle fork with my
>dead blow hammer until I had a bruised hand. Much more Liquid Wrench and
>banging...I got one side rod off! Yea! This morning I used a sledge hammer
>on the other side. It came off after many hearty blows. Yea! Then I noticed
>that the side rod is bent and I gnarled the flat surface area on both the
>side rods where the rubber seal covers. I cannot imagine someone skilled
>enough to do this without damaging the rubber seals. WHAM! WHAM! YIKES!
>
>I plan to straighten the bent side rod and re-use both. The car is supposed
>to have 26k on the clock and the ball joints feel snug. I suppose there is a
>chance of a rod breaking which could send me and the Healey hurling off a
>cliff to an untimely death. Hmmmm.
>
>Cheers,
>Scott
>Mashed 60 BN7
From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 21:49:08 EST
Subject: Re: deal of the century
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Classic White.jpg]
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 23:46:41 EST
Subject: Re: deal of the century
Steve Mickelson
1954 BN1L-156610 "Brutus" will be 50 years old 26 May 2004.
AHCA, AHCUSA, Golden Gate AHC & AHC-Sweden.
Unofficial helper of the three major Healey Hundred Registries.
In a message dated 12/27/2003 6:12:54 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tblubaugh@earthlink.net writes:
> A reverse telephone search on the internet found this address for
> "Harold Dreamsonwheels" . . . . . . . . . .
>
> BMC Classics
> New Smyrna Beach, Florida
>
> Anyone know this guy??
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 21:22:47 -0800
Subject: Spider Man Healey Sighting, sort of
He sees this ad for wrestlers wanted, but just before that, he scans by an
Austin Healey 3000 and an Alfa Romeo GTV--so I guess we know what cars the
art director of the film really likes.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From "tom felts" <tomfelts at earthlink.net>
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 08:58:03 -0500
Subject: RE: Bonnet rattle
tom
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/27/03 6:25:37 PM
> Subject: Bonnet rattle
>
> My beloved scuttle shake is now being accompanied by a new
> rattle that seems to be coming from the bonnet hinge. The parts
> book and catalogs show this to be a simple sickle-shaped assembly
> that pivots on a clevis pin behind the scuttle and bolts up to the
> bonnet with two bolts.
>
> The only thing that I can see might be causing this are two spring
> washers on either side of the clevis pin that may have given up the
> ghost; however, I'm having a hard time believing this since the
> rattle came on suddenly. If I shake the hinge and can hear and feel
> metal hitting metal, but nothing seems amiss.
>
> Anybody else had a bonnet hinge rattle and, if so, what's the fix?
> If it is the spring washers, anybody have a source (the usual suspects
> don't show them)?
>
> TIA,
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ********************************************
From "Tim Davis" <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 09:03:53 -0600
Subject: Re: deal of the century
> Try www.dreamsonwheeles.com He does excellent restoration work. A barn
full
> of parts is a barn full of parts, a grab bag. If I were a parts dealer I
would
> want to take a walk threw that barn first. Inventory list or not, before I
> shelled out 18K. At least now, we all know that another barn full of used
parts
> is out there for us to use as a parts source for our restorations.
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
of Classic White.jpg]
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 11:55:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve adj. self locking nut
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 13:54:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Valve adj. self locking nut
----- Original Message -----
From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Cc: "Healeys@autox" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: Valve adj. self locking nut
> Hi Rich, sorry for the poorly composed question regarding subject. I would
> like to know if there is available self locking nuts for the adjusting
> screw for valves. TIA.
> Don
From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 13:32:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Valve adj. self locking nut
From "Cox SMTP east" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 18:03:11 -0500
Subject: Aloha Perry
Perry, if you are out there contact me. I believe I have something you would
find curious.
Keith Pennell
From "rob" <rob at gto.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 18:36:15 -0500
Subject: Re Beautiful Day in ontario
Laurie & Bob
From Skip Besaw <besaw55 at yahoo.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 18:14:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Car Cover's
Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
from my mistakes). There is always some chaffing.
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 19:11:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Cover's
John Snyder
> Can anyone recommend a sturdy weatherproof cover that has a scratch proof
lining. This would be for occasional use on trips. Looking for something
waterproof. Car is a driver but planning three long destination weekends
where I may put the car on an open trailer and would use the cover for that
purpose. Just to keep the miles down on three long trips. Thanks.
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 19:15:57 -0800
Subject: Rear seat pan
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 19:08:40 -0800
Subject: 100/4 Hardtop
Brian
From "rjhco" <rjh at hockertlaw.us>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 21:56:31 -0600
Subject: For Sale
From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 23:28:53 EST
Subject: Re: 100/4 Hardtop
There were no factory made hardtops for the 100/4. They did factory install
a very few hardtops made by Universal Laminations.
There were several after market manufacturers, including Plasticon, San
Gabriel, CA; Scott Mfg., San Diego, CA; Wilga Tops, LA, CA; Plastic Dynamics,
Compton, CA; and the previously mentioned Universal Laminations, London, GB.
(I
also know an outfit named Kellisons in Lincoln, CA made tops for a 100-6).
The UL tops were fiberglas with some padding and some kind of naugahyde
cover. I think they all had (naugahyde) headliners. Mine even has a dome
light
wired in. There were two styles of rear windows (large and small) and two
styles of side screens (large by UL or standard Healey).
The smartest person I know of regarding hardtops is Doug Auburg
(dauburg@vintagead.com). (He wrote the hardtop section in the Moment/Anderson
Restoration
Guide has owned/restored a few tops and has been helping me restore my UL
top).
I'd suggest you get photo(s) to Doug and see what he thinks.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
In a message dated 12/28/2003 7:17:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
wharf-st@shaw.ca writes:
> I have recently come across a hard top for a 100/4. It was implied that
> it could be made by Donald Healey Motors. Is there any way of verifing this
> and who else out there makes these tops. It is not in good condition and I
> would say that it is quite old. Does anyone have information on this topic?
> Thank you
>
> Brian
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 13:36:53 -0800
Subject: Fw: 1954 AH 100 for sale
John Herffeld
760-591 9653
It is in North San Diego Co.
1954 100
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 21:47:35 -0800
Subject: Donald M Healey Memorial Grove Pictures
One group of pictures has captions and photo credits. At the bottom of that
group is a link to an un-captioned montage of miscellaneous photos.
Thanks to Ed at JustBrits for providing the web space to present these photos.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From "F. Ronald Rader" <rader at interworld.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 22:23:16 -0800
Subject: BN7, BT7, BJ7 gear box
according to a well know west coast Healey mechanic this is gearbox number
3989.
This box and gears were used on the BN7/BT7 center shift
from engine # 29E-H2246 up to and including BJ7.
contact me off line for the details.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey CA
From "Reid Trummel" <editor_reid at hotmail.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 07:43:25 +0000
Subject: RE: Donald M Healey Memorial Grove Pictures
Reid
Reid Trummel
Portland, Oregon
100, 100M, Bugeye, Ski-Master
>From: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
>To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Donald M Healey Memorial Grove Pictures
>Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 21:47:35 -0800
>
>Although I am anticipating an article and some photos in the Healey Marque
>and Austin Healey Magazine, most of the pictures taken at the
>reinstallation of the Grove sign can be found at www.justbrits.com .
>Follow the links to the contents page and look for "The story of the
>restoration of The Donald M. Healey Sign".
>
>One group of pictures has captions and photo credits. At the bottom of
>that group is a link to an un-captioned montage of miscellaneous photos.
>
>Thanks to Ed at JustBrits for providing the web space to present these
>photos.
>
>(The Other) Len
>Vacaville, CA
>1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
_________________________________________________________________
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:42:35 -0500
Subject: 100 M headgasket question
Also, has anyone had experience with installing the Dennis Welch steel
headgasket? The catalogue indicates it helps prevent coolant leakages
commonplace on 100's. Right now the head on our M is holding its water, but
the margin at the right rear always appears wet so I assume there is a minimal
amount of seepage.
thanks, allen M.
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:50:44 -0500
Subject: steering box question
Does anyone have a source for the earlier felt bush?
Can the later bush be adapted?
thanks
Allen Miller 56 BN2M
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 06:08:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Spider Man Healey Sighting, sort of
I saw a glance of a 3000 in The X Men last night during the escape scene
as the mutants came up through the floor into a garage of
collector cars. They walked right past a beautiful XK Jag and other
great cars only to escape in a Japanese "shopping cart".
UUUrrrgghh !! of all the cars to choose from for a high speed
chase..... an Acura??
Tracy
Steve Gerow wrote:
>Was watching Spider Man DVD with my nieces and nephews, and the protagonist,
>Peter Parker is looking through the want ads, for a way to make quick money.
>
>He sees this ad for wrestlers wanted, but just before that, he scans by an
>Austin Healey 3000 and an Alfa Romeo GTV--so I guess we know what cars the
>art director of the film really likes.
From Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 06:16:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Cover's
The recommendation given to me by a professional shipper was to not use
a car cover in an open trailer. You will rub or scratch through the paint.
The wind will beat the thing to death and "polish" your baby raw. I
recommend rock guards on the pulling vehicle and a skirt on the front of
the trailer.
Use the tone. How would I know this??? (grin) I rubbed through the new
paint on a 1959 VW Baja (my first foreay at a ground up) I was able to
cover it up with some stick on graphics.
Tracy
Skip Besaw wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a sturdy weatherproof cover that has a scratch proof
>lining. This would be for occasional use on trips. Looking for something
>waterproof. Car is a driver but planning three long destination weekends where
>I may put the car on an open trailer and would use the cover for that purpose.
>Just to keep the miles down on three long trips. Thanks.
>
>
>Skip Besaw, 1967 BJ8
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:00:38 EST
Subject: Re: 100 M headgasket question
> Also, has anyone had experience with installing the Dennis Welch steel
> headgasket?
I do, but in conjunction with the DW AL head. No water leaks. BTW, the
steel gasket is supposedly reuseable.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From ronfineesq <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 10:55:20 -0800
Subject: Quality of seat cushions?
From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:28:12 -0500
Subject: Need some pics
If you have anything like this, please send it to me off list. I have
plenty of bandwidth so don't be shy. I'll take all I can get and as
always...thanks a million. I could never get this car together without the
help of this list!!!
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7 #3542
From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:48:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Quality of seat cushions?
James Lea
Rockport Maine
1962 BT7 II
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 15:49:42 -0500
Subject: custom valve cover
The oil breather hose that runs into the cold air box on M's has no outlet in
the aluminum cover. However, there are casting reinforcements that are on each
side in the precise middle of the cover -- just where the factory valve covers
have the soldered in tube that connects to the vacuum hose. Has anyone seen
one of these covers drilled out to be fitted with a hose nipple?
The cover came without an oil filler cap. I had one of these 20-odd years ago
that was fitted with a high cap filled with wire wool (like air cleaners). Is
this the way these are supposed to be fitted? My inclination is to put in the
factory chrome cap and drill out the cover to fit a hose connected to the cold
air box. My experience with the old cover was that when you really stepped on
it with a warm engine, the oil vapor would blow out the bonnet louvers and
give you truly 50's hair style. Any suggestions - pro or con cutting in a hose
to the cold airbox -- would be appreciated.
were these covers sold by DMHCO or Austin, or were they sold by an outside
vendor? Does anyone have a history on them?
allen miller 100M
From David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 13:36:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Need some pics
> Hi Everyone,
> If anyone has some good pics for a non-servo model BT7 of the routing of
> wiring harnesses, brake lines, and fuel lines, I would greatly appreciate
> it. I have some stuff, but mostly from engine bays I have photographed and
> what I can pick out from Gary's book and the various catalogs and factory
> parts lists. What I really need (I think) are pics of the underside of the
> chassis, boot area for the wiring harness, and any other out of the way
> places.
>
> If you have anything like this, please send it to me off list. I have
> plenty of bandwidth so don't be shy. I'll take all I can get and as
> always...thanks a million. I could never get this car together without the
> help of this list!!!
>
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
We have just what you are looking for. We have photo set containing
approximatly 140 close up detailed photos of a BT7 in the process of being
re assembled.
--
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209-948-8767 Fax209-948-1030
http://www.britishcarspecialists.com
From "Dennis Broughel" <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:00:12 -0500
Subject: Austin Healey on the History Channel
Dennis Broughel BN-4
brougheldp@earthlink.net
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:57:06 -0700
Subject: Re: custom valve cover
Dave Russell
BN2
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Allen,
> In my experience the stock setup has always worked well. I would put a
> hose fitting in the new valve cover & use a non-vented cap, just as you
> suggest. I have no history on the cover. Mine is just chromed stock.
>
> Dave Russell
> BN2 - Lemans conversion
>
> Allen C Miller, Jr. wrote:
> > My inclination is to put in the
>
>> factory chrome cap and drill out the cover to fit a hose connected to
>> the cold
>> air box. My experience with the old cover was that when you really
>> stepped on
>> it with a warm engine, the oil vapor would blow out the bonnet louvers and
>> give you truly 50's hair style. Any suggestions - pro or con cutting
>> in a hose
>> to the cold airbox -- would be appreciated.
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:11:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey on the History Channel
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 05:00 PM 12/29/2003, you wrote:
>list:
>Just watched an hour show on the Austin Healey. It was on the history
>international channel # 271 on Direct TV. I cant find when it might be on
>again. I thought it was a very good show.
>
>Dennis Broughel BN-4
>brougheldp@earthlink.net
From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:38:09 EST
Subject: Re: Need some pics
RESTORATION PHOTOGRAPH SETS
100-M....this car has just had a ground up restoration , the photos were
taken just before the engine was installed , shows interior , exterior ,
underhood and engine compartment .... 53 PICTURES - $ 35.00
BN2 . BN4 . BT7 . BJ7 ,these sets start with a freshly painted chassis to a
finished show quality car . there are close up shots of the bare chassis then
with the wiring and brake lines installed , location of relays , linkage ,
clips , interior upholstery , trunk area , external shots and much more .
BN2.... 110 pictures $66.00
BN4 .... 75 PICTURES - $ 45.00
BT7 .... 120 PICTURES - $ 72.00
BJ7 .... 90 PICTURES - $ 52.00
KILMARTIN'S NEW FRAME , 24 close up shots . BN4 - BJ7 -- $ 28.00
Add $4.00 S & H per set within the U.S Norman Nock
British Car Specialists 2060 N Wilson Way , Stockton , CA 95205
(209)948-8767 FAX # (209) 948 - 1030
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 19:52:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Quality of seat cushions?
----- Original Message -----
From: "ronfineesq" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 1:55 PM
Subject: Quality of seat cushions?
> Moss has a sale on foam seat cushions. I seem to recall that many
> months past there was some discussion about a source for the best
> quality foam seat cushions for Austin Healey 3000. Does anyone have any
> particular source for the "best quality" foam seat cushions?
> Ron
> 66 MGB
> 61 BN7
From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:50:42 -0800
Subject: RE: Donald M Healey Memorial Grove Pictures
Thank you for posting this, for the note, and for the pictures. Wow our
cars sure look nice in the park.
Cheers,
Frank
Black over Red 1960 3000 HBN7L10610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Len and/or Marge
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 9:48 PM
To: Healeys Mailing List
Subject: Donald M Healey Memorial Grove Pictures
Although I am anticipating an article and some photos in the Healey Marque
and Austin Healey Magazine, most of the pictures taken at the reinstallation
of the Grove sign can be found at www.justbrits.com . Follow the links to
the contents page and look for "The story of the restoration of The Donald
M. Healey Sign".
One group of pictures has captions and photo credits. At the bottom of that
group is a link to an un-captioned montage of miscellaneous photos.
Thanks to Ed at JustBrits for providing the web space to present these
photos.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:17:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Quality of seat cushions?
John Snyder
1961 BN7 MK2 w/ Heritage interior, (put 2000 miles on it going to Eureka, CA
for the 2003 Healey Rendezvous)
1962 BT7 MK2 w/ Heritage interior (took it to Kelowna, BC for the 2003
Northwest Meet)
> Ron. I am not sure what the difference is if any but I am very happy with
my
> Heritage seats. Cheers, JL
>
> James Lea
> Rockport Maine
> 1962 BT7 II
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 20:35:19 EST
Subject: Re: custom valve cover
> The oil breather hose that runs into the cold air box on M's has no outlet
> in
> the aluminum cover. However, there are casting reinforcements that are on
> each
> side in the precise middle of the cover -- just where the factory valve
> covers
> have the soldered in tube that connects to the vacuum hose. Has anyone seen
> one of these covers drilled out to be fitted with a hose nipple?
>
> The cover came without an oil filler cap.
My car came with one of these valve covers, fit with a removable filler cap
as you describe. Before rebuilding my rocker assembly I had leaks out from
and around the cap due to excess oil spurting from the holes in the rocker
arms--since the rebuild I have not experience any leakage. I ultimately had
welded onto the cover a sealed cap that opens w/a push-button, and I installed
a
barbed fitting on the left side of the cover w/a hose to the cold air box. I
have never noticed any oil leakage into the CAB.
I recall reading that these covers were originally sold under the name
"Androni" and were marketed by, amonst others, J.C. Whitney.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
From "Cox SMTP east" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 23:09:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Quality of seat cushions?
Do their foams require drilling the pockets as the originals?
Keith Pennell
> I agree with James Lea regarding Heritage seat foams. I've ordered and
used
> their complete seat assemblies a number of times for customer's cars,
> supplying only the reusable metal parts, and they built the seats
> completely.
> I suggest you go to Heritage's site and read about their seat foams.
They're
> the best I've used...ever.
> I have no commercial ties or interest whatever, just acknowledging a fine
> product.
> Rich Chrysler
From "Ge Aagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 11:35:14 +0100
Subject: FW: grill batches
Hello everybody,
Our A-H club (AHDC) has for sale 20 very exclusives grill badges (heavy
quality, enamal, fits on the grill of every A-H.
There were made only 50 pieces. It is a real collecters item.
Would prefer to sell then in one lot , because of the freight expenses. If
you are interested ,please contact me off line (gaagten@hetnet.nl).
Have a look at our site :http://home.hetnet.nl/~hendrgi1/
Under cub gadgets you will find also the grill badge.
Regards,
Gi Aagten, The Netherlands
From Ron Fine <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 10:28:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Quality of seat cushions?
From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 13:24:53 -0800
Subject: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
Maybe just useful for race engines?
Jerry
BN4
From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 17:27:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
Our local Ford dealer had one (Champion branded) back in the '50s. I thought
it was fascinating, but a little snake-oily (but as usual, happy to be proven
wrong.) If you have time, it might be interesting to sort out the variables,
like the orientation of the ground electrode, the gap, cleanness of the plug,
etc., to see if you can determine just what it *does* do.
Best,
--
John Miller
Adapt. Enjoy. Survive.
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 19:26:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Austin Healey on the History Channel
If you Google search The History Channel, the first item will be Buy
on-line from the History Channel. At the top of the page hit By
Subject. Scroll down to Transportation and hit automotive. The video is
on page 3, Item Number: AAE-40099.
Best regards, Joe
At 06:53 PM 12/30/2003, you wrote:
>Joe,
>
>I looked all over the History Channel store Web site and could never find
>that Austin Healey 3000 video for sale.
>
>Do you have a specific page on their web site?
>
>Art
>HBJ8L/34199
>
>Dr. Art Braundmeier
>Professor of Physics
>Southern Illinois University
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Joseph Smathers
>Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 6:12 PM
>To: Dennis Broughel
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Austin Healey on the History Channel
>
>
>You can purchase the tape from the History Channel. Just go to their web
>site.
>
>Best regards, Joe
>
>1955 100
>1960 3000
>
>
>At 05:00 PM 12/29/2003, you wrote:
> >list:
> >Just watched an hour show on the Austin Healey. It was on the history
> >international channel # 271 on Direct TV. I cant find when it might be on
> >again. I thought it was a very good show.
> >
> >Dennis Broughel BN-4
> >brougheldp@earthlink.net
From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 19:51:19 -0600
Subject: Re: deal of the century, (Barn O' Healeys)
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
Quoting carlalony2@aol.com:
> Try www.dreamsonwheeles.com He does excellent restoration work. A barn full
> of parts is a barn full of parts, a grab bag. If I were a parts dealer I
> would
> want to take a walk threw that barn first. Inventory list or not, before I
> shelled out 18K. At least now, we all know that another barn full of used
> parts
> is out there for us to use as a parts source for our restorations.
From "Patton Dickson" <kpdii at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 22:12:46 -0600
Subject: BN4 Timing
Anyone have any idea as to what is correct?
Here is my cheat sheet
Model - BN4
Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4
Breaker Gap - .014/.016
Static Timing - 60 BTDC
Plug Gap - .024/.026
Strobe Timing - ???
Dwell - ????
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 05:24:37 EST
Subject: Oil pressure fright
But, whilst sitting in the car being asked to rock the steering, flash the
lights etc, I noticed that I had zero oil pressure.
I reckon one is allowed a mild panic attack when that happens, but mine
wasn't terminal. I knew that I'd had 45 at 3,500 when hot last time out - give
or
take - and that I doubted very much if anything catastrophic had happened in
the intervening two weeks.
I checked the line - no kinks appeared frrom nowhere.
no leaks or drips.
But, loosening off the round bolty things(?) on the rear of the instrument
and having a good wiggle around did get it to jerk up to 40, very stiffly and
then stay there when I switched off.
Sounds strange doesn't it?.....seems to be a connection/angle/moving dial
issue.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Simon.
And a Happy New Year to you all.
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 05:56:08 -0500
Subject: Re: BN4 Timing
If you can get your timing figure close it should run fine. I really don't
play with dwell figures except on older American cars. We were a little
more anal with that than the Brits.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 11:12 PM
Subject: BN4 Timing
> I am tuning up the Healey (57 BN4 w/2 port head) in the morning and I
cannot
> find the dwell that I should use. My manuals have the dwell for the
3000's,
> but since the static timing is different, I am sure the dwell would be as
> well.
>
> Anyone have any idea as to what is correct?
>
>
> Here is my cheat sheet
>
> Model - BN4
> Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4
> Breaker Gap - .014/.016
> Static Timing - 60 BTDC
> Plug Gap - .024/.026
>
> Strobe Timing - ???
> Dwell - ????
>
>
> -------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1957 Austin-Healey BN4
> Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
>
> For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller at mhcable.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 09:29:47 -0500
Subject: scanning colors
Allen Miller 56 100M
From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 06:57:28 -0800
Subject: Uh Oh ...
Any thoughts on how this might affect our beloved cars, esp. SU components?
Haven't some states used ethanol in gas for awhile already, if so, can any
Listers in said states report results?
bs
********************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
********************************************
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 10:36:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Uh Oh ...
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 9:57 AM
Subject: Uh Oh ...
| Starting today, California gets ethanol in its gas (see
| http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/12/31/BAGB8418VG1.DTL
| if you're interested in some of the scientific and political
ramifications).
|
| Any thoughts on how this might affect our beloved cars, esp. SU
components?
| Haven't some states used ethanol in gas for awhile already, if so, can any
| Listers in said states report results?
|
|
|
| bs
| ********************************************
| Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
| '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
| ********************************************
|
|
From Earl <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 09:17:03 -0800
Subject: Re: BN4 Timing
I'm pretty sure that you meant 6 degrees for the timing setting, not 60 -
maybe a typo?
The dwell is related to the points gap and refers to the duration of the
points opening / closing cycle. If points gap is at .015, the dwell will be
within hailing distance of 35 degrees on the Healey six cyl. engine. The
spec for the later engines is 35 degrees + or - 3 degrees - should be the
same for the BN4 engine.
A static timing setting of 6 degrees BTDC will work out to 10 - 11 degrees
(BTDC) with a timing light. If you do it with a light, make sure that the
engine is idling on spec, or the setting will be off. The other pitfall to
watch out for is the presence of additional notches on the pulley placed
there by previous owner(s). Best to use an advance type light on the
original notch if you're not sure about them.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patton Dickson" <kpdii@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 8:12 PM
Subject: BN4 Timing
I am tuning up the Healey (57 BN4 w/2 port head) in the morning and I cannot
find the dwell that I should use. My manuals have the dwell for the 3000's,
but since the static timing is different, I am sure the dwell would be as
well.
Anyone have any idea as to what is correct?
Here is my cheat sheet
Model - BN4
Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4
Breaker Gap - .014/.016
Static Timing - 60 BTDC
Plug Gap - .024/.026
Strobe Timing - ???
Dwell - ????
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
From N0040 at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:34:30 EST
Subject: Re: Oil pressure fright
You might want to disconnect the sensing line from the gauge, and attach a
flexible plastic or rubber line from the line connection to an old bucket. Turn
over engine or start engine briefly until oil flows into bucket to check for
junk. Be careful so line doesn't jump out and spray interior when flow starts.
If line is clear, check in connection of gauge to look for material build up
that could harden or solidify. Pressure gauges are generally "C" shaped
bourdon tubes, one end is fixed and the other connected to a set of levers that
convert small amount of tube motion (expansion) into a gear set to give full
rotation of needle. If gearing is damaged or teeth broken, gauge could also
falsely
or fail to register.
Even with air in line, you should still get some registration.
Obviously check dipstick to proper level. Low level, and sitting on severely
sloped ground could starve pump.
Wishing you a Happy New Year.
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From N0040 at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:43:09 EST
Subject: Re: Champion spark plug tester Old mechanic knowledge needed
Are these for testing "Glow" plugs for diesels or "Spark" plugs?
How would pressure effect ignition?
If compression changes the density of the air/fuel mixture, it might show
plugs that are not gapped correctly or equally. Thereby sparking nanoseconds
differently, but how could air check this function if there is nothing to
combust?
Waiting for other responses....
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 13:06:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Uh Oh ...
Mark
Ok, jus kidding on that last one. A lil corny Hoosier hoomer to start the
Hollydays off right. It is Friday isn't?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 9:57 AM
Subject: Uh Oh ...
> Starting today, California gets ethanol in its gas (see
> http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/12/31/BAGB8418VG1.DTL
> if you're interested in some of the scientific and political
ramifications).
>
> Any thoughts on how this might affect our beloved cars, esp. SU
components?
> Haven't some states used ethanol in gas for awhile already, if so, can any
> Listers in said states report results?
>
>
>
> bs
> ********************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 13:22:14 -0500
Subject: RE: BN4 Timing
Happy New Year to all.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 11:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN4 Timing
I am tuning up the Healey (57 BN4 w/2 port head) in the morning and I
cannot
find the dwell that I should use. My manuals have the dwell for the
3000's,
but since the static timing is different, I am sure the dwell would be
as
well.
Anyone have any idea as to what is correct?
Here is my cheat sheet
Model - BN4
Firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4
Breaker Gap - .014/.016
Static Timing - 60 BTDC
Plug Gap - .024/.026
Strobe Timing - ???
Dwell - ????
-------------------------------------
Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
1957 Austin-Healey BN4
Website http://www.austin-healeys.com/
For Sale - 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:33:44 -0800
Subject: Test
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:47:07 -0800
Subject: RE: Test
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Len and/or Marge <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: Healeys Mailing List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/31/2003 11:34:29 AM
> Subject: Test
>
> Test. Not seeing messages I send to The List.
>
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA
> 1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:49:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Uh Oh ...
> [Original Message]
> From: Healeyolic <healey6@optonline.net>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>; healeylist
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/31/2003 7:36:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Uh Oh ...
>
> Another case of politicians and their propensity to adopt junk science at
> the expense of common sense.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 9:57 AM
> Subject: Uh Oh ...
>
>
> | Starting today, California gets ethanol in its gas (see
> | http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2003/12/31/BAGB8418VG1.DTL
> | if you're interested in some of the scientific and political
> ramifications).
> |
> | Any thoughts on how this might affect our beloved cars, esp. SU
> components?
> | Haven't some states used ethanol in gas for awhile already, if so, can
any
> | Listers in said states report results?
> |
> |
> |
> | bs
> | ********************************************
> | Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@pacbell.net
> | '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> | ********************************************
From Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 13:09:57 -0800
Subject: RE: UH Oh
From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at comcast.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:36:14 -0500
Subject: OD brake ring & overhaul
I have removed the OD and disassembled it; but don't see much wear on the
braking ring or cone clutch friction material. Both the internal & external
material thickness is 3mm. Anyone know if there is a spec? Are my return
springs just too weak? I plan to overhaul the standard stuff; bearings,
seals, gaskets, etc, but want to make sure I fix the problem. Thoughts?
Neal G.
61 BT7
From "Amy Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 17:02:48 -0500
Subject: 62bt7interior
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 14:11:28 -0800
Subject: Re: UH Oh
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
'71 XKEv12 (This one may not run on ethanol)
Pat & Gary Rice wrote:
>As a Californian formerly from Illinois, the ethanol product has been
>misaligned out here, and it makes absolutely no sense to me. First of all,
>ethanol is a renewable resource. Secondly, it is not a carcinogen like MTBE
>is, which Californians thought was the ultimate way to end air pollution.
>If Californians are against the farmers of the midwest, why don't they allow
>more oil to be drilled on and offshore? Not in my backyard, Right? Also if
>they were really concerned about conservation and air quality, why is
>California home to the largest number of gas hog Suv's? How many SUV
>drivers absolutely need these vehicles to traverse rough terrain or snow?
>There are by far, less SUV's in the midwest than California. And they are
>needed at times during the winter months. I couldn't drive my Healey there
>in the winter because I'd be plowing snow with the grill. I never had a
>problem with any vehicle burning 10% ethanol. My Healey wasn't running at
>the time, but I drove many other vehicles with no problems. No, I've never
>been a farmer, but it disturbs me to no end to see this product misaligned.
>I suppose its more desireable to buy foreign oil!
>Gary Rice
>61HBT7L
>Ventura
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 17:45:31 -0500
Subject: Re: 62bt7interior
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amy Leslie" <kansl@net1plus.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 5:02 PM
Subject: 62bt7interior
> restoring bt7 dash,glove box, rear seat back dark blue with white piping
no
> other interior with car. trunk carpet black.
> should interior carpet also be black. Steering wheel in car is
> red and does not appear to be adjustable color wrong.but should this be
> adjustable
> Kurt L.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:02:37 -0700
Subject: Re: OD brake ring & overhaul
Dave Russell
BN2
Neal Grotenhuis wrote:
> I'm beginning the overhaul on my OD. It would stay engaged (affecting all
> gears, including reverse)after switching it off. Happens when warm/hot,
> only in 4th, (can't figure that one)and when engaged for longer than 5
> minutes. Fortunately I noticed this before reversing. It seems the cone
> clutch won't disengage from the braking ring, except by a sharp rap with a
> small hammer on the outside of the ring; not very convenient.
>
> I have removed the OD and disassembled it; but don't see much wear on the
> braking ring or cone clutch friction material. Both the internal & external
> material thickness is 3mm. Anyone know if there is a spec? Are my return
> springs just too weak? I plan to overhaul the standard stuff; bearings,
> seals, gaskets, etc, but want to make sure I fix the problem. Thoughts?
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:57:20 EST
Subject: What a Day!! & Happy New Year
Cheers & Motor on!!
Gary Fuqua
Branson, Missouri
From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnandjean at warpnet.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:15:16 -0600
Subject: Uh Oh
Lynn
From "Len and/or Marge" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:18:51 -0800
Subject: RE: UH Oh
Let it be known to one and all that I hold no animosity toward farmers,
corn or otherwise. My concern is with my pocket book and the politicians
that want to pick it dry.
CALIFORNIA GASOLINE DOES NOT NEED AN OXYGENATE IN IT. The refineries can
produce a gasoline that meets federal and state specifications without it.
The addition of ethanol IS going to unnecessisarily reduce my gas mileage
causing me to buy more fuel; is going to unnecessisarily cost me at the
pump because getting the ethanol to California is going to be expensive;
and is going to unnecessisarily cost me in taxes for the federal subsidy
program.
My concern is FINANCIAL and POLITICAL - not oil, not pollution, not corn
farmers, not SUVs.
I am going to put a lid on this bucket of worms and not comment any further
because it is not overall Healey related and concerns only California
drivers (for now).
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Pat & Gary Rice <patgaryrice@earthlink.net>
> To: Austin Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 12/31/2003 1:14:45 PM
> Subject: RE: UH Oh
>
> As a Californian formerly from Illinois, the ethanol product has been
> misaligned out here, and it makes absolutely no sense to me. First of
all,
> ethanol is a renewable resource. Secondly, it is not a carcinogen like
MTBE
> is, which Californians thought was the ultimate way to end air pollution.
> If Californians are against the farmers of the midwest, why don't they
allow
> more oil to be drilled on and offshore? Not in my backyard, Right? Also
if
> they were really concerned about conservation and air quality, why is
> California home to the largest number of gas hog Suv's? How many SUV
> drivers absolutely need these vehicles to traverse rough terrain or snow?
> There are by far, less SUV's in the midwest than California. And they are
> needed at times during the winter months. I couldn't drive my Healey
there
> in the winter because I'd be plowing snow with the grill. I never had a
> problem with any vehicle burning 10% ethanol. My Healey wasn't running at
> the time, but I drove many other vehicles with no problems. No, I've
never
> been a farmer, but it disturbs me to no end to see this product
misaligned.
> I suppose its more desireable to buy foreign oil!
> Gary Rice
> 61HBT7L
> Ventura
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at cox.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 19:23:47 -0500
Subject: Test again
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 17:25:18 -0800
Subject: Re: UH Oh
WOW! It ate the seals out of all the discharge valves on our trucks, and we
had to use Viton, as Buna-N could not hold it. Then I started hearing about
the environmental problems.
Don't live in CA any more, don't buy gasoline delivery trucks any more.
Much more relaxed now. You have not lived until you have tried to make a
presentation to the California Air Resources Board!
John Snyder
> As a Californian formerly from Illinois, the ethanol product has been
> misaligned out here, and it makes absolutely no sense to me. First of
all,
> ethanol is a renewable resource. Secondly, it is not a carcinogen like
MTBE
> is, which Californians thought was the ultimate way to end air pollution.
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:41:07 -0800
Subject: spark plug test machine
From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:47:14 -0800
Subject: overdrive problem.
From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 20:53:59 -0700
Subject: Re: spark plug test machine
Modern test consoles can determine plug firing voltage, available
voltage, cylinder compression & balance & a whole lot more. I'm just not
sure how relevent this all is in the modern world. I don't know if
anyone has put an old Healey on a modern diagnostic machine or whether
it matters.
Dave Russell
BN2
James Shope wrote:
> 40 years ago a spark plug tester was not uncommon. i remember
> testing boat spark plugs to check which ones would quit firing as
> pressure was built up to simulate combustion pressure in the
> cylinder. replaced more than a few plugs that fired good outside of
> cylinder. haven't seen one in years and often wondered what happened
> to the machines. this was also where i learned to avoid Champion
> plugs as they seemed to fail more often, including brand new ones.
> healeylmanjim
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