To add something to this thread. I called Nock's in CA and talked to
Michael. The sleeved thermostats they sell are 160 F opening stats. The
one in my BJ8 opens begins opening at 155 F. They have been trying to
get 180 F stats for a number of years. So for all those who are
concerned that 160 F being to low a temperature to operate a Healey
engine, there would be no choice but to use a non-sleeved 180 F stat.
If anyone out there has a source for 180 F sleeved stat I would sure
appreciate hearing from you.
Alan S
67 BJ8 (aint-it-fun)
Rich C wrote:
>There should be a sleeve type thermostat fitted to the 6 cylinder cars that
>makes the coolant flow through the radiator instead of a portion of it
>bypassing. The originals were all sleeve type and I believe Sports Car
>Specialists (Nock) in California markets them.
>Rich Chrysler
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Snyder" <helyjohn@cablespeed.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:32 PM
>Subject: Hot Problem
>
>
>
>
>>Hello List,
>>
>>I have a problem w/ both of my recently restored tri-carb Healeys. One is
>>
>>
>a
>
>
>>BN7 (2500 miles), and the other is a BT7 (1500 miles). Both overheat very
>>quickly when idling in neutral. Both had a complete overhaul of the
>>
>>
>engines,
>
>
>>both have new radiator cores (4 staggered rows of tubes, like the factory
>>original). I also have an original, unrestored BT7 MK1 (head has never
>>
>>
>been
>
>
>>off, radiator has never been rodded, has over 100,000 miles) that does not
>>have this problem. Have owned this car for over 34 years.
>>
>>Currently working on the BT7. Timing is right on, checked the clearance
>>between the water pump impeller and the housing, richened the fuel
>>
>>
>mixture.
>
>
>>Took it for a drive on a deserted road at 30 mph, 4th gear, o'd, 3.54
>>
>>
>axle,
>
>
>>about 1200 rpm. Ran cool, right on the thermostat. Stopped, put in
>>
>>
>neutral,
>
>
>>but kept the engine at 1200 rpm. Started to overheat immediately.
>>
>>
>Started
>
>
>>driving w/ same settings, and trmperature stabilized, and then started to
>>
>>
>cool
>
>
>>down. Clearly the problem is air flow. The car has a standard fan, and I
>>really don't want to go to a Texas Cooler as I would like to keep the
>>
>>
>engine
>
>
>>original looking.
>>
>>Question: Has anyone tried changing the pitch of the fan blades? I am
>>
>>
>temped
>
>
>>to try this, but it could be a really big mistake. Won't try it unless
>>someone out there has had success and can tell me just how far to bend
>>
>>
>them.
>
>
>>Maybe this is a Really Dumb Idea, but had to ask.
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>John Snyder
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