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RE: Master cylinder

To: "'davidwjones'" <davidwjones@cox.net>, "'Alex'"
Subject: RE: Master cylinder
From: "Don Anglesey" <Don@anglesey.us>
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 07:32:50 -0700
I changed mine about two months back with no problems.  It is a tight
fit to get at and change out.  A little penetrating oil won't hurt a
thing, use a good flare wrench and you should have no problems.  I also
did not prime mine, put the fluid in and pumped with the pedal.  The
trick is getting to the bleed screw; if tunnel is removed it is a piece
of cake.  If not I was able to get a wrench on it when I parked the car
over the ditch in the driveway, you can also go to sears and buy a
closed end wrench and bend the 7/16 inch end so that you can get the
wrench on.  I have also used easy-bleed and it works great, makes it a
one man job and works as well on the clutch as the brakes.
Don
57' BN4

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of davidwjones
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 8:25 PM
To: Alex; Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Master cylinder

I would use some penetrating oil on the hydraulic fittings to the master
cylinder, though there is no need for more than a drop or two that can
be
easily wiped off after. The concern is that the end of the metal line or
the
flare can be frozen to the nut, then when unscrewing, the steel line is
twisted, possibly cracked, or even twisted off... This, on cars where
the
lines haven't been cracked in eons.
I bled my brake lines and clutch system with a pressure system called
easy
bleed, which worked fine for me, but which I have been told since, is
not a
good idea...   So I can't help with the other question...

David W. Jones
'62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
Cumberland, RI USA

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alex
  To: Healeys (E-mail)
  Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 10:45 PM
  Subject: Master cylinder


  Is there anything to especially look for or to do when replacing the
clutch
  master cylinder on a 3000?

  Some folks suggest using some penetrating oil or Liquid Wrench on the
  1-/2-in. and 7/16-th nuts on the hydraulic lines before loosening them
with
  a flare wrench on the old cylinder.

  Is that a good idea, or is there a danger of contaminating either
line?

  Can the new master cylinder be primed in place by gravity feeding it
from
  the reservoir before connecting the output line to the slave cylinder?
For
  that matter, is priming necessary at all?

  Any other suggestions or observations on this seemingly
straightforward
  task?

   ==  Alex in Maine
       1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
       Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
       Amateur Radio AI2Q

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