When did you say you wanted this car on the road? : )
Your a bigger man than I Ned. In my case, I saw a huge puzzle in front of
me and to get that thing on the street I knew I had to ask for professional
help.(psychological and physical)
I knew my way around the mechanical aspect and that was my trigger point
that got me excited. But it was what I didn't know that got me asking a ton
of questions and what I found out was that putting the body back together
was going to take some patients and serious skill.
So I hired a friend and more or less watched in "ah" over his shoulder at
the artistry that he was able to create from a grinder and welder. "Pure
Ot" as Quentin Wilson would say. After a couple of weeks and MUCH
adjusting the car finally came back together.
So just a suggestion, if you could find some one that would be willing to
use your welder, on your car , while you watched over his shoulder, you
would be time ahead, a job done right and YOU WOULD LEARN A TON.
Good Luck with your project, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ned Smith" <smithn00@kitepilot.net>
To: "Austin-Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 1:22 PM
Subject: Welding
> My attempts to weld patches in the floor pan are not going too well.
>
> My new Harbor Freight welder has a high and a low amp setting. I am using
> the low 62-68 amp setting.
>
> As someone on the list pointed out, the welding wire is always is always
> hot
> when the machine is turned on.
>
> The only other variable is wire feed rate.
>
> I am using 22 gage sheet metal for the patches (this may be the real
> problem, using too thin patch material).
>
>
>
> I haven't touches the car yet but in practice runs I am always blowing
> holes
> in the metal when I try to join two pieces.
>
>
>
> My first thought was that the amps are too high. But I am as low as I can
> go. Did I buy the wrong welder?
>
>
>
> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ned Smith
>
> BJ8
>
> near Chattanooga, TN
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