You will need to support the rear of the engine. There are a couple
of ways you can do that.
1. If you have a spare input shaft you can put it into the rear of
the crankshaft and then a bar across the frame and let the motor down.
2. cut a piece of 2x4 about 4" long and you can put it against the
rear of the head and the lower part of the firewall and that will
support the engine from going down to far.
The bellhousing bolts do not come in from the engine side the all
come in from the bellhousing and then thru the engine plate. And yes
the dowl bolts are a snug fit.
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
.
.
On Sep 11, 2007, at 3:27 PM, linwood rose wrote:
> Well, in my 5 year restoration project I have certainly asked many
> questions, but it strikes me that in the last few weeks I have asked
> more questions than ever about very disparate subjects. Here is my
> enquiry for the night:
>
> If one installs the motor without the gearbox, and tightens down the
> bolts on the motor mounts, do they sufficiently support the weight of
> the motor so that the car can be rolled around in the garage/
> workshop? Or, must one have a jack or other form of support under the
> rear of the motor at all times to prevent potential twisting of the
> motor mounts?
>
> Also, I have my 2 original dowel bolts that go through the bell
> housing into the backplate at 11:00 and 5:00 o'clock. Is the smooth
> shank part of the bolt a tight fit into the backplate - as in tapping
> with a light hammer required, or do they travel through without much
> friction?
>
> Thanks as always for assistance. Obviously, I am getting ready to
> install the completely rebuilt motor which is a great feeling!!
>
> Lin
> 1960 BT7 in restoration
> 1959 Bugeye
> _______________________________________________
> healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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