It is true, I lost 100% of power.
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces+britishcars=shaw.ca@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Freese, Ken
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:45 PM
To: Editorgary@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
He said he lost all power. To me that is not just the ignition. If the
black/white wire is grounded, you only lose ignition.
I think he has a battery terminal problem with the hot post, not the ground
post.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
________________________________
From: healeys-bounces+ken.freese=aerojet.com@autox.team.net on behalf of
Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 4:00 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Testing cut-off switch/coil ground
In a message dated 9/13/07 11:02:39 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net
writes:
> Since the purpose of the black/white wire is to ground the coil via the
> switch, and if the wire happens to be grounded somewhere along its length,
> wouldn't it be better to disconnect the wire at the coil? In that case,
> disconnecting at the switch wouldn't remove the ground.
>
> I'm betting his problem is the switch.
>
I'm betting on the switch as well, having had the same problem.
However, as a quick fix/test of the coil grounding circuit, the best place
to
disconnect the black-white wire is in the bundle of front-to-rear connectors
under the fuse block. At the coil, the black-white is hard-connected with
the
white wire from the dizzy(?) to a single connector, so to disconnect "at the
coil" you'd have to cut the wire.
When I fixed mine, it turned out that a tiny circlip on the cut-off switch
shaft had disintegrated, allowing the shaft to pull out just enough to
ground
the coil to the chassis but while still allowing a connection between the
battery and chassis.
Cheers
gary
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