Ron:
A little trick that I learned long ago for BJ8's: slip 4 pieces of suitably
sized rubber tubing over the rear seat pan fastening studs on the fuel pump
side of the car. The tubing allows some friction in the holes, allowing the
seat pan to be easily removed - on the road, if need be - to get to the fuel
pump area without having to jack the car and remove the seat pan and / or
wheel. If you simply lay the seat pan in place without the rubber sleeves,
the wind can blow it upwards at speed.
I've run my BJ8 this way for 20 odd years with no problems, and no one ever
knows!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 9:08 AM
Subject: [Healeys] New SU pump leaking 67 BJ8
Well......
After bypassing the anti-theft cutoff switch and checking the current
through a voltmeter it said I was getting 12v to the pump but it still
wouldn't work.
So I decided to run a new line directly from the fuse box to the pump and
ground it. It worked! The hot wire in the wiring harness was shot. I don't
understand why the voltmeter said 12V! I permanently ran a new hot wire,
removed the rear seat and hooked everything back up. I stupidly replaced the
seat and tire, took it off the jacks and started the car. It ran fine.
Before it got to temperature I decided to look under the car. Gas leak on
the floor. Fire averted.
Another lesson learned the hard way. Now I need to get back in and find out
why it was leaking. The new pump uses rubber O rings, the old used washers.
Anyone had any problems like this? I tightened to "snug" which as we all
know is a "skosh" more than "just a bit" but less than "tight plus umph".
Suggestions? I have to get it running for a big British meet Saturday but
would like to avoid becoming an Olympic Torch on the way.
(Took the Aston last time so I have to take the Healey this time)
TIA
Ron
SoCal
67 BJ8
97 DB7
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