Hi Mark,
More important that the groves on the contact surface of the syncro ring is
the clearance between it and the gear hub when it is pressed into
"synchronizing" position on the cone of the gear hub.
If there is little or no clearance between the back surface of the ring and
the face of the hub it definitely will not work.
The grooves are there to provide lubrication for the cone and ring. Without
them the cone and ring get very hot during hard use; you have to remember
that this cone is effectively a cone brake and, as the ring has very little
mass, it can get hot very quickly.
If you don't use the synchromesh very much by double de-clutching etc. a
worn ring can work perfectly for years.
Also an important consideration in the face clearance equation is the
different expansion rates of the ring and the cone. Bronze or brass cones
expand with heat much more than the sintered steel ones in your MGB box so
they need more clearance to prevent their contacting the gear hub face when
hot.
If the "house shaped tabs" are worn their attack angle is altered and the
hub will tend to work less effectively as a result of decreased axial
pressure for the synchronizing "cone clutch" action. These tend not to wear
on sintered steel rings.
I probably have a reverse gear if you have had no luck finding one.
Michael Salter
>
>> Gentlemen,
>> If anyone has a 70 - 80 Mgb reverse idler gear available,in
>> good usable
>> condition I could help you out with a $30.00 donation toward your
>> Xmas fund.
>>
>> Also could someone tell me how bad the inside of a syncro ring has to
>> be to
>> decide to trash it and buy a new one. The little "house shaped"
>> tabs on my
>> MGB syncro rings look perfect but the inside grooves look a bit worn
>> on some
>> of them. These rings appear to be a little more stout than brass
>> Healey
>> rings.
>>
>> How badly can worn be? A new set is $80.00, and my xmas list is
>> already
>> exhausted.
>>
>> Thanks, Mark
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