Alan - thanks for the suggestion. We had thought of that, but not got to it
quite yet. If it works, it has the advantage of a bit more length. The
whole new assembly seems to be about 2" longer than the original. Have you
actually done this?
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] More choke cable info --
Earl -
The trick here is to undo the spring collar and take out the friction
half moon and replace it with a little steel ball and put the spring
collar back on - voilla! Twist and lock!
Alan
On 5/7/09, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:
> We're working on a BJ8. Has anyone tried to resuscitate the original
> primary cable assembly - in order to retain the twist-lock feature? The
> replacement cable assemblies are a pull out friction deal that everyone
> says
> does not work very well - we do have one in hand if necessary.
>
> On our car, the inner cable end has been frayed and repaired (as usual)
> and
> is now too short - leaving us with not enough cable to fully choke the
> carbs. I'm thinking that a fix might be to somehow 'sweat' the cable out
> of
> the knob assembly, and simply solder a replacement length of bicycle cable
> in, without destroying the plastic knob with heat. We have absolutely no
> extra length to the cable housing, so shortening that will not work to
> give
> us our extra travel. Carbs are off the car right now for rebuild, so now
> is
> the time.
>
> Anyone had any experience with this? Any and all input appreciated.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BT7 tri-carb
> BJ8
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