You can install a mechanical switch AND keep the original pressure se in the
system--that way you have a BU should the mechanical one fail. I added the
mechanical one because the original types always required a lot of pressure to
activate.
With the mechanical one, a slight tap on the pedal and I have brake kights.
tom
---- Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
=============
Hi All -
I have a slightly different opinion here, but I have always found replacing
the brake light pressure switch to be easy and cheap (and I've never had to
return one for being bad).
British cars are designed to where this switch can be replaced without
having to bleed the brakes - if you just swap the bad one out for a good one
quickly. The switches are located on a three way or four way junction very
low on the chassis for this very reason. Once replaced, the switches
activate at the earliest touch of pressure.
I guess my view is it's less trouble to keep the original.... and rigging up
a mechanical switch may suffer from the law of unintended consequences.
That being said, I understand the desire to replace these switches with a
mechanical one, but the hydraulic ones seem to work just fine, they just
need to be replaced every couple of decades like anything.
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:57 PM, robert westcott <55healey@comcast.net>wrote:
> Hi Mel,
>
> Did the exact thing about 5 years ago, used to have to stomp the brakes to
> turn on the lights even with a new pressure switch.
> I have it set to turn them on when I just touch the pedal. A bright 3rd LED
> light that is attached to the trunk with magnets completes the package.
> I bought the lED strip from Watson's as well and machined a bracket to fit
> the curve of the trunk. It pops off and slips in the trunk for shows.
> This light has saved my butt (and the Healy's tail) many times.
>
> Rob
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