Slightly off topic answer, but here are two or 3 observations....
1. The biggest issue with thermostats of any type is what do they do when they
fail? I.e. when they stop working?
So they fail in an open position, or fail in a closed position?
I use a thermostat that fails open. Because its far better than failing
closed. I think mine is out of some modern jap car. If I can find the details
I'll post them.
2. With radiator caps, there are 2 lengths. If you fit a short one instead of
a long one, you'll basically have a no or low pressure cap irrespective of
what it's "rated" at.
All I'm saying is these are two of the most important things to understand
before you just look at the opening temp on a thermostat, or the pressure
rating on a radiator cap.
PS and always test a thermostat in near boiling water on bench, even if it is
brand new straight out of the packet...
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone
On 05/02/2013, at 9:20 AM, john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I was checking the archives and read a few emails concerning 7 pound caps
versus 10 pound caps. The conclusions seemed to be:
>
> 7# cap - to stop overflow fill up and let the radiator find it's own water
level (or use an overflow container)
> 10# cap - may not overflow but, according to Moss it cannot be used with an
original style thermostat with sleeve and bellows.
>
> I am not yet too concerned about overheating because I have a newly rebuilt
four row radiator with the original top and bottom and I have not yet driven
the car let alone driven it on a hot northern California summer day.
>
> Concerning the thermostat, I am wondering if there are significant
advantages to using an original style sleeved type with bellows? If so what
are the advantages?
>
> Thank you,
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> '
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