I'd start by checking for anti-matter in the cooling system...
That stuff can screw up just about anything!!!
On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 10:09 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Doesn't make sense, at least according to the laws of physics I pretend to
> understand.
>
> If you didn't boil or lose coolant with a 7lb cap, it means you never
> reached 7lb. pressure in your cooling system. So the 10lb cap should never
> open, either. The additional 3lbs pressure would only give a few more
> degrees before boiling, which doesn't appear to be an issue with your car
> (Law of Physics: the boiling point of a fluid is directly related to
> ambient pressure; that's why boiling cooks foods slower at higher altitude).
>
> IOW, the cap doesn't regulate pressure in the cooling system (like a
> voltage regulator)--it's there to keep your hoses, etc. from exploding if
> your engine overheats.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 3/29/2013 6:42 AM, Dan Stromquist wrote:
>
>> Water pump issue?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi all, about 2 months ago there was a thread indicated that the correct
>> radiator cap for a BJ8 was a long neck 10 lb. cap.
>>
>> News to me but since a couple agreed, I ordered one to see if there would
>> be
>> a difference.
>>
>> I have been running a 7 lb. cap with 180 degree sleeved thermostat. With
>> this setup, I've had an idle temp right at 180 degrees when warmed up.
>>
>> When I changed to the 10 lb. cap (with same thermostat) the BJ8
>> immediately
>> ran 200 - 205 degrees at warm idle. Switching back to the 7 lb. cap
>> brought
>> the idle temp right back down to 180 degrees.
>>
>> Why would this be?
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
> --
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> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
>
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