If you can find a short piece of tubing that is a tight fit over the inner
tube it can be soldered into place just above the bottom end of the slot
which will stop the cracking.
When the stator tube is reinstalled carefully the slot is still of
sufficient length to permit full adjustment of the wheel.
A little fiddly but it works.
Michael S
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 7:58 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>wrote:
> Herb,
>
> Replacement was the only option I could think of when working on mine.
> Laser welding? I don't know.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 11/10/2013 04:46 PM, Herbert Miller wrote:
>
>> I currently have my steering column apart, and indeed the long stator tube
>> has cracks at the end of the slot, just as you described. Is there any
>> repair ?
>> Herb Miller
>> BJ8
>> BT7
>> AN5
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.
>> team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
>> Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2013 6:45 AM
>> To: Dr. C. Rubino
>> Cc: healeylist
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] stator tube
>>
>> Carl,
>>
>> While they're out of the car, separate the two stator tubes and have a
>> look
>> at the slot in the long stator tube. It's not uncommon to see cracks
>> radiating from the two corners at the end of the slot. If they get bad
>> enough, the trafficator will start moving with the steering wheel when
>> it's
>> turned.
>>
>> When I've made replacement long stator tubes, I've cut the slot with a
>> slotting saw as original, but then gone back in with an end mill and
>> radiused the end of the slot, removing the sharp corners (stress risers)
>> left by the slotting saw.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>
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--
Michael Salter
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