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Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8

To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>, "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 08:51:15 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAB3i7L+g5x7xn2C_NM3L8fuhd2mJT6=13rsOCJJYpX_r2q7W4g@mail.gmail.com> <20150616082202.AB6NR.6138.root@pamxwww02-z01>
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Hi Tom,
I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the factory=
 used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would not come=
 loose on the rocker shaft.
As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is suff=
icient to crush the end of the shaft or, if the puller isn't straight, actu=
ally bend the threaded section of the shaft.
I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of t=
he steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily b=
roken.
If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out, separate the side and center rod b=
all joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate t=
he box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. This sa=
ves having to remove the turn signal switch, steering wheel, and grille so =
is worth the effort.
Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me m=
any times.
Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and the=
n the rocker shaft.
For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the rock=
er shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back t=
o size.
Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the leve=
r off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically that =
the factory guys.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Sent: =E2=80=8E16/=E2=80=8E06/=E2=80=8E2015 8:22 a.m.
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8

More like a refridg full of beers!!:)  Do you think that puller can be used=
 while the rack is still mounted in the car?  I'm not to keen on taking the=
 whole thing out.

I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD co=
rnhead grease.  Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?

Thanks----appreciate the info.
tom
---- Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:=20

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Tom,
I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
through.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967
I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
about now.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote=
:

> I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess i=
s
> still in the car.  I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
>
> I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
>
> Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> must be removed (?)
>
> Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
>
> thanks
> tom
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>


--=20
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*


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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">Hi Tom,<br>I don't want to discourage you from trying but=
 in my experience the factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure =
that the lever would not come loose on the rocker shaft.<br>As I mentioned =
in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=3D967<br>they are often so =
tight that the pressure required to separate them is sufficient to crush th=
e end of the shaft or, if the puller isn't straight, actually bend the thre=
aded section of the shaft.<br>I would caution you against trying to wedge s=
omething between the body of the steering box and the lever as the box is n=
ot very strong and is easily broken.<br>If you can get the 3 mounting bolts=
 out, separate the side and center rod ball joints and loosen the U clamp u=
nder the dash it is possible to rotate the box enough to get the puller des=
cribed in my blog into position. This saves having to remove the turn signa=
l switch, steering wheel, and grille so is worth the effort.<br>Someone on =
the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me many times.<=
br>Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and =
then the rocker shaft.<br>For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to=
 have the area of the rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard=
 chrome" and ground back to size.<br>Good luck....maybe you will be lucky a=
nd find that someone has had the lever off previously and tightened the nut=
 a little less enthusiastically that the factory guys.<br>Michael S<br>BN1 =
#174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sa=
ns-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style=3D"=
font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:tomfel=
ts@windstream.net">Tom Felts</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Cali=
bri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span sty=
le=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E16/=E2=80=
=8E06/=E2=80=8E2015 8:22 a.m.</span><br><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri=
,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style=3D=
"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:micha=
elsalter@gmail.com">Michael Salter</a></span><br><span style=3D"font-family=
: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span>=
<span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Heal=
eys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8</span><br><br></div>More like a =
refridg full of beers!!:)&nbsp; Do you think that puller can be used while =
the rack is still mounted in the car?&nbsp; I'm not to keen on taking the w=
hole thing out.<br><br>I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can a=
nd refilling with JD cornhead grease.&nbsp; Assume mixing a little won't be=
 a problem?<br><br>Thanks----appreciate the info.<br>tom<br>---- Michael Sa=
lter &lt;michaelsalter@gmail.com&gt; wrote: <br><br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>Tom,<br>I'm not sure if this will be of much help but=
 it may be worth reading<br>through.<br>http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?=
p=3D967<br>I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or s=
ide rod<br>from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the l=
ever away<br>from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline.=
.<br>I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge=
<br>about now.<br><br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174<br><br>On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at =
10:36 PM, Tom Felts &lt;tomfelts@windstream.net&gt; wrote:<br><br>&gt; I'm =
starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is<br>&=
gt; still in the car.&nbsp; I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever =
on.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.<br>&=
gt;<br>&gt; Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steer=
ing arms<br>&gt; must be removed (?)<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Does anyone who has do=
ne this while on the car have a list of what should<br>&gt; be disconnected=
 prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which<br>&gt; seems to b=
e quite fixed at the moment.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; thanks<br>&gt; tom<br>&gt; ___=
____________________________________________<br>&gt; Support Team.Net http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt; Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<b=
r>&gt; Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt; Forums: http://www.team=
.net/forums<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Healeys@autox.team.net<br>&gt; http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt; =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com<br>&g=
t;<br>&gt;<br><br><br>-- <br>*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got=
 an electrical problem.*<br><br></body></html>=

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