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Thanks. I'll give it a try when I get the headers back from sandblasting.
I'm curious though, why did you heat-cure it with a propane torch? I would
think the heat from the headers would be sufficient.
Keith
On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 9:31 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Forgot to mention, this stuff needs to be heat-cured. I use a propane
> torch with a spreader attachment. When you heat it, you can see it going
> from wet and glossy to dry and 'matte' finished.
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> I CAN recommend this stuff: *http://tinyurl.com/q2z9tod
> <http://tinyurl.com/q2z9tod>*
>
> Can be sprayed on bare metal (no priming needed) and holds up better than
> paint.
>
> Bob
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> This is a really interesting survey, but what about paint? I have a set
> of mild steel headers that I plan to put on a bugeye I'm restoring. I
> don't really want to leave them bare, and I was planning on painting them
> with high-temp paint.
>
> On a slightly different note, my experience with heat and rough running in
> my BT7 is exactly the same as Bob's. I have come to accept that it is
> 'normal' behavior for these cars although I've always wondered about
> wrapping the the exhaust manifold to decrease the heat load on the carbs.
>
> Keith
>
>
>
>
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks. I'll give it a try when I get the headers back=
from sandblasting.=C2=A0 I'm curious though, why did you heat-cure it =
with a propane torch?=C2=A0 I would think the heat from the headers would b=
e sufficient.<div><br></div><div>Keith<br><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 9:31 AM, Bob Spidell <span=
dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">=
bspidell@comcast.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
"><div><div style=3D"font-family:Arial;font-size:12pt;color:#000000"><div>F=
orgot to mention, this stuff needs to be heat-cured.=C2=A0 I use a propane =
torch with a spreader attachment.=C2=A0 When you heat it, you can see it go=
ing from wet and glossy to dry and 'matte' finished.<br></div><div>=
<br></div><hr><span class=3D""><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;=
font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-ser=
if;font-size:12pt"><br><div><br></div><div style=3D"font-family:Arial;font-=
size:12pt;color:#000000"><div>I CAN recommend this stuff:=C2=A0 <b><a href=
=3D"http://tinyurl.com/q2z9tod"; target=3D"_blank">http://tinyurl.com/q2z9to=
d</a></b><br></div><div><br></div><div>Can be sprayed on bare metal (no pri=
ming needed) and holds up better than paint.<br></div><div><br></div><div>B=
ob<br></div><div><br></div><hr><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;=
font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-ser=
if;font-size:12pt"><br><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">This is a really int=
eresting survey, but what about paint?=C2=A0 I have a set of mild steel hea=
ders that I plan to put on a bugeye I'm restoring.=C2=A0 I don't re=
ally want to leave them bare, and I was planning on painting them with high=
-temp paint.<div><br></div><div>On a slightly different note, my experience=
with heat and rough running in my BT7 is exactly the same as Bob's.=C2=
=A0 I have come to accept that it is 'normal' behavior for these ca=
rs although I've always wondered about wrapping the the exhaust manifol=
d to decrease the heat load on the carbs.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Ke=
ith=C2=A0<br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><br></div></div></div></div></div><=
div><br></div><br><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></span></div></div></=
blockquote></div><br></div></div></div>
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