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Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 20:51:49 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <007101d14684$18ac2fa0$4a048ee0$@roadrunner.com> <03B15EC2-1D8F-46F9-9D63-34172F1DD099@gmail.com>
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Threadlocker works great on the front shock bolts, but I've not had much 
success with it on the rear shock bolts.  Here's my theory why:

When you apply threadlocker to a bolt it effectively glues it to a nut.  
On the front shock plates, where the nuts are captive, this approach 
works, but on the rears gluing the bolt to the nut doesn't do much good 
(except let/require the bolt and nut to rotate as an assembly).  I don't 
care for split lockwashers myself, but in this application they seem to 
work better than threadlocker (putting some sort of friction material 
between the shock and the mount makes sense, too).

Bob

On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come loose unless 
> exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on race car prep are 
> very down on split lock washers as the authors feel that the bolt has 
> too loosen before the lock washer digs in. They much prefer using 
> Loctite, new locking nuts or if that is not adequate drilled and 
> safety wired hardware.
> Personally I think if you are going to go with lock washers go full 
> Brit style. Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, 
> flat washer, lock washer, nut.
> If you use Loctite the surfaces must be absolutely clean. No grease, 
> no rust, no crud built up in the threads. Use a new nut and bolt if 
> possible. Spray the bolt and nut with brake clean just before assembly 
> to make sure everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. 
> When properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt 
> (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need.
> Rick
>


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<html>
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    Threadlocker works great on the front shock bolts, but I've not had
    much success with it on the rear shock bolts.  Here's my theory why:<br>
    <br>
    When you apply threadlocker to a bolt it effectively glues it to a
    nut.  On the front shock plates, where the nuts are captive, this
    approach works, but on the rears gluing the bolt to the nut doesn't
    do much good (except let/require the bolt and nut to rotate as an
    assembly).  I don't care for split lockwashers myself, but in this
    application they seem to work better than threadlocker (putting some
    sort of friction material between the shock and the mount makes
    sense, too).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:03B15EC2-1D8F-46F9-9D63-34172F1DD099@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <div>Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come
        loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on
        race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors
        feel that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs
        in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that
        is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Personally I think if you are going
        to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock washer,
        flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer,
        nut. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">If you use Loctite the surfaces must
        be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the
        threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and
        nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure
        everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When
        properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt
        (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you
        need. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Rick</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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