Proper adjustment of the diaphragm is probably the most likely cause.
Screw it in while continually pushing in and out the diaphragm until the
points just do not open any more, back of slightly until it lines op
with the six screw holes in the body and than back of another 4 holes.
Another point of attention is that the blued spring blade with the top
contact point(s). It should be lying flat just lightly resting on the
tiny bridge (barely visible on the edge of the rectangular hole. The
point(s) should be positioned ever so slightly more to the front than
the lower point(s), however it is not very critical. When lying flat on
the bakelite surface a 0.035"blade should just touch the under side of
the spring blade. You can adjust this by carefully bending the upper lip
on the brass lower points assembly. The lower sideways lip is to adjust
the throw of the diaphragm and should be set at 0,07" or 0,09",
depending on the source. I use the latter.
Also make sure the body is properly earthed and that electrical
connections throughout are clean and intact so that the pump gets the
full Voltage.
Make sure the valves are fitted in the right "direction"!!!
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 22-11-2016 om 7:26 schreef John Spaur:
> I have never been able to rebuild a fuel pump and get it to throw over
> properly after the rebuild. It will work fine on the bench and fail in the
> car. I have followed the workshop manual to the "T" and everything
> in-between.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Monday, November 21, 2016 3:19 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] su pumps again
>
> Hmmmm ... Wonder why so many of us over here in the 'States have problems
> with them...
> Bob
>
> ________________________
> On 11/21/2016 12:47 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
>> Today I overhauled my 42 year old SU fuel pump...
>
>
>
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