I have an electric fan that is mounted in front of the rad and controlled with
a thermostat that I can set to come on at any temp. Got frustrated with the hot
days of July at red lights in Toronto, 30 years ago and have had no problems
since.
From: atightprod at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 11:18 AM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos
I have been using a bilge fan blowing air directly on my carbs in my BN1 for
almost six years now. Recently I shipped my car to Europe for the European
Healey Meet and while driving I got caught in a construction zone in France.
Less than a kilometer in distance, but close to an hour in time with no where,
and I mean no where, to pull off. Move three feet, stop for ten minutes, move
five feet, stop for six minutes, you get the idea. And it would have been
suicide to turn the car off. Temp gauge up to 230 and climbing. (The temp
indicator will go up and into the oil pressure side, I've witnessed it, but
that's another story)
With the bilge fan turned on, my car never missed a beat. Never coughed.
Never ran rough. Never faltered. Once through said construction and back on the
"highway" I cruised on down the road and the temp came back down to 160. All's
well that ends well, but without that electric bilge fan with an on/off switch
in the cockpit, I would have been toast and the situation much worse.
I am a believer and I have been proven correct a number of times. When I do
stop the car on hot days and come back out to start her up, I turn the fan on
for a couple of minutes before I start the car. Sometimes she starts right up
with no problem, sometimes she coughs a bit, but she always smooths out in a
few seconds and then I can drive away with no problems. Best modification I
have made on my car bar none.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
In a message dated 7/31/2018 12:15:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, rfbegani at
gmail.com writes:
So Perry, if your analysis is correct, then the use of an electric fan
pushing air through the radiator, combined with an air deflector underneath the
radiator directing air from below into the fan and the engine compartment
provides sufficient air flow over the engine to keep the carbs cool enough to
keep them from overheating? In addition, the fan should be kept operating
while stalled in traffic and say 5 minutes before shutting down the ignition?
The fan seems to be the most used application, while the deflector and the
bilge fan directing air directly to the carbs seems to be the next most
effective application.
I will let the list know when I get my BJ8 running as it will have the fan
operating with a control on the dash board and the deflector underneath the
radiator deflecting the air into the engine.
By the way, I have a friend who used an inline electric fuel pump near the
carbs controlled with an on/off switch on the dash to increase the pressure to
the carbs while in traffic, along with a radiator fan on his Triumph and never
had a problem. That application could be a 4th in a series of how to solve the
problem of overheating and vapor lock.
Bob Begani
67 BJ8
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos
Folks
Before we get to excited about a cooler carb please consider what is
happening in a running carburetor controlled engine. The carb acts like a swamp
cooler. The vaporized fuel is mixing with air and the charge mixture is as
cool as it gets before ignition in the combustion chamber. Ever notice little
droplets of moisture on the exterior of the carb body when humidity and heat is
just right? The real overheated carbs usually occurs when the airflow (radiator
fan wash) over the engine is limited or restricted (read stuck in traffic or
participating in the 4th of July parade). Worst case is when you shut down the
engine and the engine begins the process of trying to make everything in the
engine bay the same temperature. Hot! The photos do show the hottest areas on
the engine, exhaust area and the head. Without airflow and vaporization in the
carbs they rapidly begin to heat up. So does the fuel in the fuel bowls. How
hot does it have to be to cause vapor lock?
Just a few thoughts for consideration and comment?
Perry
From: Bob England
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 5:03 PM
To: 'David Nock BCS'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos
David
I noticed that too - I figured the carbs would show warmer. If I remember
I'm going to bring the unit home again this weekend and poke a bit more
under the bonnet.
Keep in mind that this is one car in one circumstance - the guys chasing the
overheating issue might see something different with thermal images of their
cars (it would be interesting to know).
I must admit I have not been following an overheating carb thread. What is
the issue? Maybe I should take some more thermal images around the carbs.
Thanks.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: David Nock BCS [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: July 26, 2018 9:57 AM
To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos
The interesting part that I see is that there is very little heat at the
carbs, So that tells me that the problem everyone is chasing of overheating
in the fuel in the carbs may not exist.
David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob England
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2018 4:29 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Interesting (?) Photos
I thought I'd share a few photos of the engine running in our BJ8.
Photo 28 is taken near the front right headlight looking down. 29 is taken
from above the right front wheel looking towards the radiator. 31 is from
the same position looking down at the valve cover and distributor.
I'd taken these when trying to find toe-frying hot spots in the foot-wells.
Not the greatest photos, but interesting nevertheless.
Bob
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