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Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the exist

To: "'Max Byers'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the existing radiator
From: <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2020 17:06:58 -0800
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Have you checked your temp independently?  Sure it isn't your gauge?

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Max Byers
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 4:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the
existing radiator

 

Bob, I had continual problems for years with "overheating" -as indicated by
a gauge that wanted to hover around 200 in traffic on hot days.  I tried a
lot of things that either didn't work at all or seemed to make the problem
worse.  The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating the gauge
to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling water and adjust
the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge at  the 212 degree mark.
Mine was reading a bit high; (2) having my stock radiator re-cored with a
more modern core ($444).  Any competent radiator shop will know how to do
that to improve cooling; (3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat.   I
have neither a pusher fan or a "shovel", but I do have a Texas Kooler fan.
It's normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after the engine is shut down
when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving down the road at 2000 -
4000 RPM.

In cooler weather my gauge will run at 165 - 170 when the engine is fully
warmed up, and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 - 190.   It goes to
212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s I've paid
attention to.  

 

I avoided having to pull the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it  by using
a portable Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the
stove on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor
could be immersed in the water.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Begani
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to the
existing radiator

 

Listeners:

 

I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector
to direct the flow of the air to the engine.  It works to keep the coolant
temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to
4000 rpms.  However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive slower
or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with the radiator, I
believe it needs more cooling capacity.  How many more core or tubes can be
installed in the standard BJ8 radiator.  For those of you who have done this
modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the coolant
temperature?  I would rather not install an aluminum radiator because they
do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature.

 

Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to
keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls.
Have any of you found success with this modification?

 

 

Bob Begani

BJ8 67


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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Have you checked your temp independently?&nbsp; Sure =
it isn&#8217;t your gauge?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys =
&lt;healeys-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Max =
Byers<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, January 13, 2020 4:59 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Over heating and =
adding additional core tubes to the existing =
radiator<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Bob, I had continual problems for years with =
&#8220;overheating&#8221; &#8211;as indicated by a gauge that wanted to =
hover around 200 in traffic on hot days.&nbsp; I tried a lot of things =
that either didn&#8217;t work at all or seemed to make the problem =
worse.&nbsp; The only thing that finally fixed it was (1) calibrating =
the gauge to make sure it was accurate (immerse the sensor in boiling =
water and adjust the needle to lie between the two dots on the gauge =
at&nbsp; the 212 degree mark.&nbsp; Mine was reading a bit high; (2) =
having my stock radiator re-cored with a more modern core ($444).&nbsp; =
Any competent radiator shop will know how to do that to improve cooling; =
(3) installing a 190-degree sleeved thermostat. &nbsp;&nbsp;I have =
neither a pusher fan or a &#8220;shovel&#8221;, but I do have a Texas =
Kooler fan. &nbsp;It&#8217;s normal for a Healey gauge to read 212 after =
the engine is shut down when thoroughly warmed up, but not while driving =
down the road at 2000 &#8211; 4000 RPM.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>In cooler weather my =
gauge will run at 165 &#8211; 170 when the engine is fully warmed up, =
and on hotter days and in traffic around 180 &#8211; 190.&nbsp;&nbsp; It =
goes to 212 when the engine is shut off, like almost all other BJ8s =
I&#8217;ve paid attention to.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I avoided having to pull =
the gauge out of the dash to calibrate it &nbsp;by using a portable =
Coleman propane-powered stove to heat the water and supported the stove =
on a wide board laid across the fenders, positioned so the sensor could =
be immersed in the water.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Steve =
Byers<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>HBJ8L/36666<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>BJ8 =
Registry<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>AHCA Delegate at Large<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Havelock, NC&nbsp; =
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>From:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [<a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Robert Begani<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Monday, January 13, 2020 6:36 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>S=
ubject:</b> [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to =
the existing radiator<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Listeners:<o:p>=
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>I have added a =
electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or deflector to direct =
the flow of the air to the engine.&nbsp; It works to keep the coolant =
temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down the road at 2000 =
to 4000 rpms.&nbsp; However, the coolant temperature will rise if you =
drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing wrong with =
the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling capacity.&nbsp; How many =
more core or tubes can be installed in the standard BJ8 radiator.&nbsp; =
For those of you who have done this modification, how much does it cost =
and does it work to reduce the coolant temperature?&nbsp; I would rather =
not install an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do =
not reduce the coolant temperature.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Another =
modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket to keep =
the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowls. Have =
any of you found success with this modification?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>Bob =
Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>BJ8 =
67<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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