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Check your temperature gauge first for accuracy and go from there. 212º
F (100ºC) at normal speed cannot be right so I am pretty sure the
temp.gauge overreads..
If the radiator is still the original one have a new core installed with
max. capacity. You can never have to much. A competent radiator shop
will know what to do. Cleaning out a radiator is not really a good option.
Does your fan operate via a thermo-switch or is it manually operated?
Does the fan turn the right way.
Is your thermostat the right spec in combination with the thermo-switch
and working properly?
In principle the temperature should be within small limits of the
opening temperature of the thermostat most of the time, e.g. if you have
a 82ºC thermostat the temp. gauge should indicate something around
82-85ºC, however in stop & go traffic it can rise until the
thermo-switch lets the electric fan cut in which should be slightly less
than 100ºC. The temperature should fall than to about 87-90ºC when the
thermo-switch should cut out at about 5ºC over the opening temperature
of the thermostat..
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 14-1-2020 om 00:36 schreef Robert Begani:
>
> Listeners:
>
> I have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel or
> deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine. It works to
> keep the coolant temperature at or below 212 degrees when driving down
> the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms. However, the coolant temperature will
> rise if you drive slower or stop and go. While I believe there is
> nothing wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling
> capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in the
> standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done this
> modification, how much does it cost and does it work to reduce the
> coolant temperature? I would rather not install an aluminum radiator
> because they do not seem to work or do not reduce the coolant temperature.
>
> Another modification I am considering is a manifold and header blanket
> to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float
> bowls. Have any of you found success with this modification?
>
> Bob Begani
>
> BJ8 67
>
>
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<p>Check your temperature gauge first for accuracy and go from
there. 212º F (100ºC) at normal speed cannot be right so I am
pretty sure the temp.gauge overreads.. <br>
</p>
<p>If the radiator is still the original one have a new core
installed with max. capacity. You can never have to much. A
competent radiator shop will know what to do. Cleaning out a
radiator is not really a good option.<br>
</p>
<p>Does your fan operate via a thermo-switch or is it manually
operated?</p>
<p>Does the fan turn the right way.</p>
<p>Is your thermostat the right spec in combination with the
thermo-switch and working properly?</p>
<p>In principle the temperature should be within small limits of the
opening temperature of the thermostat most of the time, e.g. if
you have a 82ºC thermostat the temp. gauge should indicate
something around 82-85ºC, however in stop & go traffic it can
rise until the thermo-switch lets the electric fan cut in which
should be slightly less than 100ºC. The temperature should fall
than to about 87-90ºC when the thermo-switch should cut out at
about 5ºC over the opening temperature of the thermostat..<br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 14-1-2020 om 00:36 schreef Robert
Begani:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Listeners:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">I
have added a electric push fan to the radiator and a shovel
or deflector to direct the flow of the air to the engine.
It works to keep the coolant temperature at or below 212
degrees when driving down the road at 2000 to 4000 rpms.
However, the coolant temperature will rise if you drive
slower or stop and go. While I believe there is nothing
wrong with the radiator, I believe it needs more cooling
capacity. How many more core or tubes can be installed in
the standard BJ8 radiator. For those of you who have done
this modification, how much does it cost and does it work to
reduce the coolant temperature? I would rather not install
an aluminum radiator because they do not seem to work or do
not reduce the coolant temperature.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Another
modification I am considering is a manifold and header
blanket to keep the heat from the exhaust from boiling the
fuel in the float bowls. Have any of you found success with
this modification?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Bob
Begani<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">BJ8
67<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
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