Found one, thanks Perry!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 2, 2020, at 11:02 AM, healeys-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
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>
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>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Looking for bracket (Bruce Peters)
> 2. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 3. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock)
> 4. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Mark Donaldson)
> 5. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Chris Dimmock)
> 6. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> (warthodson@aol.com)
> 7. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren Dietz)
> 8. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Warren)
> 9. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 10. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bruce Steele)
> 11. Re: Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension (Bruce Steele)
> 12. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Engl)
> 13. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (Bob Spidell)
> 14. Re: 100M Head (Randy Hicks)
> 15. Re: 100M Head (Curtis Arndt)
> 16. Re: 100M Head (Michael MacLean)
> 17. Re: Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks. (i erbs)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:49:18 -0700
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane@gmail.com>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Looking for bracket
> Message-ID: <F5274F1F-5F2D-4C23-A881-5DF36370EADC@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi all,
> I am looking for the Steering Column Mount Bracket for my BJ8. It is Key #202
> in the Moss Catalogue on the Front Body Fittings page(page 128 in the Winter
> catalogue). Does anyone have one or know where I can find one? Thanks!
>
> Bruce
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 21:10:39 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <f15be44e-5c20-3a6e-796e-1407395d8037@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50;
> still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from
> before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange
> twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the
> shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on
> any parts house shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for
> free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Thanks all.As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil
>> additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that
>> did not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades
>> I have used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the
>> climate, etc. However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would
>> find another oil. I also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell
>> having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it
>> no longer cleared some California rule changes. I wondered it this
>> happened to Red Line.
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat
>> tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm
>> phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half
>> bottle is enough to add to a conventional oil.It also has bit of
>> sulfur, 16.6 grams.I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could
>> result in too much.I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for
>> tropical heat.However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a
>> much more expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on
>> the manufacturer.The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than
>> those available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40.I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing
>> weather.There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me
>> to Red Line?s 10W40.The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an
>> upside for me to use a heavier oil.
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 15:07:23 +1000
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
> Cc: alfuller194@gmail.com, Mark Donaldson
> <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>, healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <442B8B93-8FDD-4AB9-A6EE-370FED718CFA@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better
> enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip
>> switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on
>> the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an
>> additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>> rg
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: alfuller194@gmail.com
>> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>, 'Bruce Steele'
>> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>, 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this:
>>
>> [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require
>> modification? I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say
>> ?DWR? on them, so maybe I already know ?;
>>
>> [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that
>> you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better
>> ? how does the dead pedal work?
>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Al Fuller
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
>> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM
>> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>; 'healeylist'
>> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>>
>>
>> In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal
>> extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago.
>>
>> Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like
>> heel and toeing?
>>
>> I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the
>> same size as in the Mini Cooper.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> Ardmore
>>
>> NZ
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bruce Steele <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
>> Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m.
>> To: fsufan1952@yahoo.com; 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights
>>
>>
>>
>> Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought
>> you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me:
>>
>> 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control,
>> which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps.
>> Extra credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary
>> panel. Hint: It is Healey related.
>>
>> 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via
>> Healeys
>>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM
>>
>> To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>
>> Subject: [Healeys] Lights
>>
>>
>>
>> So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project
>> has been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks
>> good . Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars
>> . And our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
>>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 17:31:23 +1200
> From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
> To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Roger Grace'"
> <roggrace@telus.net>
> Cc: <alfuller194@gmail.com>, "'healeylist'" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <000401d62042$ec6a5410$c53efc30$@xtra.co.nz>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm?
>
> And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel
> rest perhaps, or part of the pedal?
>
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m.
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
> Cc: alfuller194@gmail.com; Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>;
> healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better
> enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net
> <mailto:roggrace@telus.net> > wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip
> switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>
> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on
> the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an
> additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>
> rg
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alfuller194@gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194@gmail.com>
> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz
> <mailto:ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz> >, 'Bruce Steele'
> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com> >,
> 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 16:53:51 +1000
> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
> Cc: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>, alfuller194@gmail.com,
> healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <151156C5-16D2-4D90-A620-A6D70B2D108B@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Mark,
> I?ll take some More pics on Monday.
> It?s pretty much the standard healey arm, but set up for a cable.
> The round piece underneath is an adjustable throttle stop I made, to stop me
> stretching the accelerator cable. ?
> Best
> Chris
>
>> On 2 May 2020, at 3:31 pm, Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Chris, Can you show us a bit more of your accelerator pedal and drop arm?
>> And what is the round piece at the base of the accelerator pedal ? a heel
>> rest perhaps, or part of the pedal?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, 2 May 2020 5:07 p.m.
>> To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
>> Cc: alfuller194@gmail.com; Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>;
>> healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
>> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to
>> better enable heel/ toe.
>>
>> <image003.jpg>
>>
>>
>> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip
>> switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on
>> the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an
>> additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>> rg
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: alfuller194@gmail.com
>> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>, 'Bruce Steele'
>> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>, 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 13:32:48 +0000 (UTC)
> From: warthodson@aol.com
> To: "bspidell@comcast.net" <bspidell@comcast.net>,
> "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <808646171.146400.1588426368901@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site was
> $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next best
> price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.?Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still
> don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused
> to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago
> my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an
> explanation there, either.? I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves
> since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be
> happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> Hi,? Thanks all.? As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and
> experience shared by the list. ?What triggered my question on oil and oil
> additives was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did
> not display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. ?For decades I have
> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc.
> ?However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. ?I
> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet
> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California
> rule changes. ?I wondered it this happened to Red Line. ? So, I sent off an
> inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent one to our Healey
> group. ?The Healey group was much faster to respond. ?While most business are
> slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. ?The assurance is that
> Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an
> Austin Healey's fl
> at tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm
> phosphorus.
>
> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle
> is enough to add to a conventional oil.? It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6
> grams.? I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too
> much.? I am just not inclined to experiment. ? The 3000?s owner?s manual only
> mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical heat.? However, the ?Work shop
> Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more expansive table that promotes a lot
> of weights depending on the manufacturer.? The aspect that modern oils are a
> bit different than those available when the book came out adds a bit more
> uncertainty.? ? I am confident using the 10W40.? I used 10W50 in my Triumph,
> but it was an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing
> weather.? There were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to
> Red Line?s 10W40.? The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for
> me to use a heavier oil. ? Many thanks to the folks who responded.? ? Bill
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:02:13 -0400
> From: Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@gmail.com>
> To: warthodson@aol.com
> Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID:
> <CACpcE-_bLhQT4gAyUKjTLgjgActauv=Hvc6F0v9Vr5y4FocDmw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Amazon -$76.11 (?) for 3 5gal VR 1 20/50.
>
> On Sat, May 2, 2020, 9:33 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's site
>> was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is. The next
>> best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>>
>> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50;
>> still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before
>> refused to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few
>> years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never
>> got an explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house
>> shelves since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than
>> $4/qt I'll be happy.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives
>> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not
>> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have
>> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc.
>> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I
>> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet
>> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California
>> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet
>> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle
>> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6
>> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too
>> much. I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical
>> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more
>> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the
>> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those
>> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There
>> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s
>> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to
>> use a heavier oil.
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey@gmail.com
>>
>>
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>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:13:49 -0400
> From: Warren <flyhihealey@gmail.com>
> To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, "bspidell@comcast.net"
> <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <5ead8021.1c69fb81.9cdd9.bbce@mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:05:18 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: warthodson@aol.com, "healeys@autox.team.net"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <45578790-71c2-9c65-e0d7-10476635fc90@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pack-Valvoline-VR1-Racing-SAE-20W-50-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/384213070?selected=true
>
> You order the '2-pack' for $8.76--$4.38/qt--but, unfortunately, it's OOS
> for now (was available a couple days ago).
>
>
>
>> On 5/2/2020 6:32 AM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
>> The best price I could find for Valvoline VR-1 20w50 on Wallmart's
>> site was $7.03/quart & it was shipping from "Zoro", who ever that is.
>> The next best price was $9.11/quart shipping from Speedway.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Sent: Fri, May 1, 2020 11:10 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>>
>> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1
>> 20W-50; still don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought
>> from before refused to ship to me.? The Valvoline saga has some
>> strange twists, a few years ago my favorite parts house 'had to pull
>> it off the shelves;' I never got an explanation there, either.? I
>> haven't seen it on any parts house shelves since, but as long as
>> Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be happy.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:24:28 -0700
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <06b701d62095$c73bf6a0$55b3e3e0$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> My local NAPA carries VR1 20W50 and told me there are no problems selling it
> in CA.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 9:11 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
>
>
>
> Walmart had no problem shipping me a crap-ton of Valvoline VR-1 20W-50; still
> don't understand why the outfit in the Midwest I bought from before refused
> to ship to me. The Valvoline saga has some strange twists, a few years ago
> my favorite parts house 'had to pull it off the shelves;' I never got an
> explanation there, either. I haven't seen it on any parts house shelves
> since, but as long as Wallymart will ship for free @ less than $4/qt I'll be
> happy.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 5/1/2020 10:30 AM, wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives was
> the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not display the
> usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have used that oil as
> it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc. However, if Red
> Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I also recalled that
> some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet for Valvoline 20W50
> as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California rule changes. I
> wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>
>
>
> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response sent
> one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to respond. While
> most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line response did come. The
> assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU 11404) contains good ZDDP
> levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet cam and lifters; 1225ppm
> zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>
>
>
>
> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle is
> enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6 grams.
> I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too much. I am
> just not inclined to experiment.
>
>
>
> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical
> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more
> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the manufacturer.
> The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those available when
> the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>
>
>
> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was an
> air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There were
> also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s 10W40. The
> oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to use a heavier oil.
>
>
>
> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 08:28:53 -0700
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>, "'Roger Grace'"
> <roggrace@telus.net>
> Cc: "'Mark Donaldson'" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>, "'healeylist'"
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
> Message-ID: <06d901d62096$65b1e970$3115bc50$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I presume you also polished your DWR pedals. I was quite surprised that they
> arrived with little finishing. This offset idea is great.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris
> Dimmock
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2020 10:07 PM
> To: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
> Cc: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>; healeylist
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> I also changed the pedal spacing, and made my own accelerator pedal to better
> enable heel/ toe.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 29 Apr 2020, at 4:07 am, Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net
> <mailto:roggrace@telus.net> > wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I also bought a set from DW. However didn't use their gas pedal or his dip
> switch idea. Found the DW gas pedal too big.
>
> What I did do was to mount the clutch pedal not central to the lever but on
> the LHS. Made some tight fitting spacers with longer bolts. This gives an
> additional 1/2 in pedal separation.
>
> rg
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alfuller194@gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194@gmail.com>
> To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz
> <mailto:ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz> >, 'Bruce Steele'
> <healeybruce@roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com> >,
> 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:36:25 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> @font-face
> {font-family:"Cambria Math";
> panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
> @font-face
> {font-family:Calibri;
> panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
> @font-face
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> panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;}
> @font-face
> {font-family:Tahoma;
> panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
>
>
>
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
> font-size:11.0pt;
> font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {mso-style-priority:99;
> color:#0563C1;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> p.MsoPlainText, li.MsoPlainText, div.MsoPlainText
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> margin:0in;
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> color:#0033CC;}
> span.PlainTextChar
> {mso-style-name:"Plain Text Char";
> mso-style-priority:99;
> mso-style-link:"Plain Text";
> font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;
> color:#0033CC;}
> span.EmailStyle22
> {mso-style-type:personal-compose;
> font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
> color:windowtext;}
> .MsoChpDefault
> {mso-style-type:export-only;
> font-size:10.0pt;}
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> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
> div.WordSection1
> {page:WordSection1;}
> -->
>
> Hi Bruce ? maybe you can share with us how you did this:
>
> [1] Do the pedal pads mount to the stock pedal arms, or require modification?
> I was also going to ask for the source, but they appear to say ?DWR? on them,
> so maybe I already know ?;
>
> [2] A while back you shared the look of your sisal mats. That pic shows that
> you refined your dead pedal from the prior aluminum box to something better ?
> how does the dead pedal work?
>
>
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:58 AM
> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
> <mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com> >; 'healeylist' <Healeys@autox.team.net
> <mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net> >
> Subject: [Healeys] Paddy Hopkirk pedal extension
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> In your second photo I see what appears to be a Paddy Hopkirk pedal
> extension. I had one on my 1961 Austin-Cooper many years ago.
>
> Being bigger than the stock accelerator size, does it improve things ? like
> heel and toeing?
>
> I assume it fits neatly over the pedal as it appears, from memory, to be the
> same size as in the Mini Cooper.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> Ardmore
>
> NZ
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Steele <healeybruce@roadrunner.com
> <mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com> >
> Sent: Monday, 27 April 2020 2:40 a.m.
> To: fsufan1952@yahoo.com <mailto:fsufan1952@yahoo.com> ; 'healeylist'
> <Healeys@autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net> >
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lights
>
>
>
> Interesting way to flood the dash. When you said under the dash, I thought
> you meant in the foot wells. Two projects for me:
>
> 1. I decided to add a clock to my auxiliary panel below the heater control,
> which already held my ammeter and switches for the fog and spot lamps. Extra
> credit for identifying the inspiration for the design of auxiliary panel.
> Hint: It is Healey related.
>
> 2. I'm fabricating a rally stopwatch panel.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Healeys [ <mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>
> mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don via Healeys
>
> Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 1:47 PM
>
> To: healey list < <mailto:healeys@autox.team.net> healeys@autox.team.net>
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Lights
>
>
>
> So , when idle times come . What do we do to fill the void ? . My project has
> been to install LED light strips under the dash of my 67 BJ 8 . Looks good .
> Easily removed. Hidden switch. Extra lighting can?t hurt in our cars . And
> our sights can always use extra lights . All for under $20 .
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:33:18 -0600
> From: Engl <engl@accesscomm.ca>
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <18633626-FD3B-456E-AEDC-6C1BB93C5732@accesscomm.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Has anyone used Camoil? It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across anyone
> who has used it.
>
> https://www.camoils.com
>
> BobE
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 09:00:58 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID: <eb500b12-02f7-69a4-3f73-0aac271add77@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Not me, but I don't think I'd have any qualms using it (unless it's
> majorly expensive; oil change frequency is at least as important as oil
> brand/grade/type). Seems similar to something in use in the aviation
> community for a long time: https://cessnaowner.org/camguard/ (but this
> IS an additive).
>
> I used to put miracle elixirs in my oil and gas--yes, I even tried the
> infamous 'Slick 50,' possibly the product that started the additive rage
> (maybe it was 'STP?')--but now I figure it's best to use
> namebrand/TopTier gas and a reputable oil and change it often. From what
> I can tell, quite a few Healey owners use VR-1, and I don't recall
> anyone having an issue with it (doesn't mean it hasn't happened).
>
> Not an additive, but I put an aftermarket oil/air separator ('catch
> can') on my Mustang GT, and I'm glad I did; it catches about a teaspoon
> of oil every thousand miles.? That oil would otherwise gunk up the
> intake manifold (engine has both port and direct injection, but neither
> helps keep the manifold clean).? Note this isn't a problem with a stock
> Healey, as the SUs dump plenty of raw gas into the manifold (they even
> need drains for the excess!).
>
> Bob
>
>
>> On 5/2/2020 8:33 AM, Engl wrote:
>> Has anyone used Camoil? ?It sounds real good, but I?ve not come across
>> anyone who has used it.
>>
>> https://www.camoils.com <https://www.camoils.com/index.php>
>>
>> BobE
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 14:11:07 -0400
> From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
> To: Curt Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, Michael MacLean
> <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey
> List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID: <A7E6E978-F988-4A70-921F-B0FCCE90F315@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
>
> Randy
>
>> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily
>> removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.
>>
>> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types)
>> and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or
>> 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053
>> respectively.
>>
>> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that supposedly
>> some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix. However, I
>> doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered as such,
>> and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M experts) that
>> I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M" carburetors with
>> just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older than
>> me, with a lot more experience.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>>
>>>
>>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me
>>> it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve
>>> guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was putting
>>> seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in
>>> diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it
>>> is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit
>>> over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the
>>> chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head
>>> had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded
>>> into the top of the head in the picture.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@me.com
>>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 12:28:43 -0700
> From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
> To: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, Michael MacLean
> <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey
> List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID:
> <CAJKrNeRuCisiaiCyySp_p7dnGCf9rp+e+AsSnCpOZAFyoSZLUg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that
> the average restorer/judge can see.
>
>> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine number (easily
>> removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.
>>
>> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two
>> types) and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either
>> AUC-6040 X or 6040 AA with of course the appropriate hand etched numbers
>> 6047 and 6053 respectively.
>>
>> Also on a somewhat related subject, a recent thread stated that
>> supposedly some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix.
>> However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered
>> as such, and two other members of the Concours Committee (both 100M
>> experts) that I've spoken to say that they have never seen Factory "M"
>> carburetors with just a 6040 number. I'm 65 and these two members are 15
>> years older than me, with a lot more experience.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>>
>>> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>>>
>>>
>>> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told
>>> me it was off a 100M. A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve,
>>> valve guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged. When I was
>>> putting seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in
>>> diameter than the rest. This was the repaired valve and guide. Luckily it
>>> is an exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit
>>> over it. My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the
>>> chassis number on a 100M. Did they also number engine parts? This head
>>> had been cracked in the past and repaired correctly. See the " X" welded
>>> into the top of the head in the picture.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@me.com
>>
>>
>>
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>
> Message: 16
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 19:39:14 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
> To: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>, Curtis Arndt
> <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
> Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, Bob Spidell
> <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Head
> Message-ID: <1013287564.29073.1588275554710@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> OK, I'm getting an education here too.? So, what is the number stamped into
> the top flange of the head in the picture?? Also Kees mention I have the
> wrong washer under the head nut.? Someone needs to tell Moss then, that's the
> one they sold me for that purpose.Mike MacLean?
>
> On Thursday, April 30, 2020, 12:28:54 PM PDT, Curtis Arndt
> <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info, and I did know that, but just talking about parts that
> the average restorer/judge can see.
>
> On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 11:11 AM Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The 100M camshafts were also numbered, Either 1B2892 or 1B2895.
> Randy
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2020, at 1:38 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mike,
> No they did not number engine parts other than the engine?number (easily
> removable aluminum tag) on the block should match the chassis number.??
> Now the "M" distributors also had unique part numbers (there were two types)
> and of course the H-6 carburetors were also numbered, either AUC-6040 X or
> 6040 AA with of course the appropriate?hand etched numbers 6047 and 6053
> respectively.
> Also on a somewhat related?subject, a recent thread stated that
> supposedly?some "M" carburetors only had the number 6040 with no suffix.
> However, I doubt that assertion as I have never seen any originals numbered
> as such, and two other members of the Concours?Committee?(both 100M experts)
> that I've spoken to say that they have never?seen Factory "M" carburetors
> with just a 6040 number.? I'm 65 and these two members are 15 years older
> than me, with a lot more experience.
> Cheers,
> Curt
>
> Op 30-4-2020 om 07:32 schreef Michael MacLean:
>
>
>
> When I bought this head from my restorer friend that has passed, he told me
> it was off a 100M.? A valve stem had bent on startup and the valve, valve
> guide and the hole for the valve guide were damaged.? When I was putting
> seals on the valves I noticed one of the valve guides was larger in diameter
> than the rest.? This was the repaired valve and guide.? Luckily it is an
> exhaust valve so a seal of the type i am using did not need to be fit over
> it.? My question is, a lot of the body parts were stamped with the chassis
> number on a 100M.? Did they also number engine parts?? This head had been
> cracked in the past and repaired correctly.? See the " X" welded into the top
> of the head in the picture. Mike MacLean
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 10:53:16 -0700
> From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
> To: wwycoffbn7@aol.com
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil additives -- great informaton. Thanks.
> Message-ID:
> <CABXhz88tdTdzh3AWOOMav-gwz-VhNY0zX0ndgFN9GRtPpOn7zw@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This came across my feed yesterday. seemed to be timely posted
> https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/new_oil_and_old_cars. A history
> of engine oil development
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 10:38 AM wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Thanks all. As is usual there is a lot of good discourse and experience
>> shared by the list. What triggered my question on oil and oil additives
>> was the observation of a bottle of Red Line 10W40 image that did not
>> display the usual statement that it contains ZDDP. For decades I have
>> used that oil as it carries proper oil pressure, suites the climate, etc.
>> However, if Red Line stopped including ZDDP, I would find another oil. I
>> also recalled that some time back, Bob Spidell having to find a new outlet
>> for Valvoline 20W50 as it seemed that it no longer cleared some California
>> rule changes. I wondered it this happened to Red Line.
>>
>>
>>
>> So, I sent off an inquiry to Red Line and not getting a rapid response
>> sent one to our Healey group. The Healey group was much faster to
>> respond. While most business are slowed down by COVID-19, a Red Line
>> response did come. The assurance is that Red Line Motor Oil 10W40 (SKU
>> 11404) contains good ZDDP levels, plenty for an Austin Healey's flat tappet
>> cam and lifters; 1225ppm zinc and more importantly 1375ppm phosphorus.
>>
>> As to their break in additive, their Web site indicates that a half bottle
>> is enough to add to a conventional oil. It also has bit of sulfur, 16.6
>> grams. I have to wonder if adding it to their 10W40 could result in too
>> much. I am just not inclined to experiment.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 3000?s owner?s manual only mentions 30 weight oil, even for tropical
>> heat. However, the ?Work shop Manual? (the Green Book) has a much more
>> expansive table that promotes a lot of weights depending on the
>> manufacturer. The aspect that modern oils are a bit different than those
>> available when the book came out adds a bit more uncertainty.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am confident using the 10W40. I used 10W50 in my Triumph, but it was
>> an air-cooled engine and was REAL hard to start in freezing weather. There
>> were also a lot of reputable recommendations that led me to Red Line?s
>> 10W40. The oil pressure is proper, so I don?t see an upside for me to
>> use a heavier oil.
>>
>>
>>
>> Many thanks to the folks who responded.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
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> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 157
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