There is a device available at most auto parts and tools sources which is a
stud extractor. It fits onto a socket wrench handle and it grips the stud as
you turn. Mine was about $12.00. Better than either method you describe.
However, if you are going to replace the studs, then it really doesn't make
any difference - at least until you go to put in the new ones.
Replace or not? Studs are relatively cheap (compared with the results of a
failed one). Bit, if the engine is in good shape, the studs are not brittle
from heat, not bent, and the threads are in good shape, I've reused the old
ones with no ill effects. Do make sure that the surface of the block is not
pulled up around the studs. Remove the studs and check this. If they are
above the rest of the block surface, the gasket will never seal properly.
Countersink the raised portion with a drill bit or countersink. Also,
lightly touch up the area with a sharp file. If the block is going to the
machine shop, simply have them deck the block to square everything up.
Subject: Removing studs
Date: Monday, January 15, 1996 2:12PM
When removing studs from the head is it preferable to jam two nuts on the
threaded part or try to grab it with vice-grips or something in the
middle or is there another way? Should new studs be used in all cases or
are there times when the old ones may be reused?
Kevin Sullivan -- 1960 MGA
Nichols Research Corp.
Shalimar FL USA