Over the years I have used all kinds of different things to lube engines that
I have built. I have used straight STP, a mixture of STP and 30W, ATF,
WD-40, and straight motor oil, I have also used moly lube on cams and crank
bearings. All have worked well, I have never had a failure either on start
up or run what I would consider to less than a full service life. The last B
motor I built went 100K and is still in the garage.
Now as to the question as to the engine sitting before start up. I am a
technical instructor and teach engine rebuilding (among other things). In
class we use what the car maker (Volvo) recommends. Volvo says engine oil so
this is what we use.
At the minimum I go months between classes on an engine. Now remember we use
oil on the bearings and cylinder walls, we do not fill the crank case. Last
month I was in a different facility that had not had an engine class taught
in 2 years. Upon tear down there was still oil on the bearings and the
cylinder walls were "slick" not dripping mind you but you could tell there
was a residue of oil. None of my engines show any scratches in the bores.
The rods and mains show some wear, but are still serviceable. These engines
were supplied in 1991 and have been torn down probably 100 times each, during
the class they also get turned over as students do T belts and other items.
With that said, here is what I would do if I were going to do what Mike has
in front of him.
1. Use engine oil, its cheap and you probably have a pump oiler with some in
it.
2. If you feel better about using cam lube on the cam knock yourself out.
(sitting for months I probably would do this)
3. Pre lube the oil pump prior to assembly
4. Lube the pistons as well as the bores
5. After short block assembly put a squirt of oil on the top edge of each
piston (will lube bore as piston goes up)
6. Before installing the distributor, spin the pump and build pressure in the
engine (this step just before start up)
6. After start up idle the engine at about 1500 RPM for 10-15 minutes to
allow things to bed in.
7. Change the oil in 300-500 miles
With all that said YMMV,
Rick Ewald
67 MGB
various Volvos, right now a topless Swede (C70)
In a message dated 4/16/99 8:15:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mthelen@jpl.nasa.gov writes:
> I am in the process of a slow rebuild - just got my beatiful
> engine back last week. I would like to take my time and do it
> right my first time. In addition, while the engine is out, I
> want to do all the body work and paint. So what about lubing
> the engine? I got some assembly moly lube and applied it to the
> crankshaft bearings, but what about the cylinder walls? Someone
> told me that moly lubes create carbon deposits when heated too
> much. Also, what other components do I need to lube up if the
> engine is going to be on the workbench for a while before final
> installation and running it? I was told that regular motor
> oil would not last long enough.
>
> Thanks!,
|