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Subject: Ujoints
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 02:50:09 EDT
 Bill Saidel <> writes:
>Anyway, as I was removing the rear flange bolts, holding the nut with a box
>wrench and the head of the bolt with a socket wrench, I dropped the socket
>wrench and my nose reacted promptly and magnificently. My son said, "I
>thought that only happened in Jim Carey movies."  Nope.
>Seriously, how do I remove the head caps? They seem to be quite stuck. The
>rubber washer between the cap and the 'spider" is very soft making a hit
>onto the inner side of the cap quite difficult. I've looked in Haynes,
>Bentley, and Porter's refurbishing book and all described a similar
>procedure which entails tapping on the yolk. When I do that, I hear clangs
>but nothing moves. 

With all due respect to Haynes, Porter, et al, they are all from a country 
that included bicycle sized tyre irons in many car tool kits clear into the 
60's, like you'd like to try to dismount a modern tubeless, beaded tyre with 
one of those overglorified Kmart screwdrivers! Get serious with thing before 
you wreck the yokes and have to donate over $200 (the price otherwise of a 
very nice steering wheel) to the folks at moss. GO to your nearest auto 
machine shop and have them press the buggers out, and press the new ones in. 
The $20 you spend will be well worth it, in time and frustration to say 
nothing of saving you from having to buy a new driveshaft. BTW I have had 
ujoints on lbcs that were so stuck it took ALL the pressure available from a 
6 ton press to knock them loose, so consider that while you hammer away in 
futility.  <g>
68 BGT (btw FOR SALE, nice very nice, 4500 or trade/offer)
67 TR4A (ohmigosh how did that happen??!!!)

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