ptegler wrote>Solder itself is only designed to maintain the
>mechanical connection. IT IS NOT designed to BE the connection
>nor is good at handling current. The chemical/molecular
>junction where solder meets metal is resistive.
Thanks for the critique. My work has been in audio, and in
soldering to most audio connectors you stick the tinned wire
in a tinned 'cup' that you then fill with solder, or you
tack the wire on to a tinned 'solder pad'. Bare-metal to
bare-metal connection before application of solder hasn't
often been an option, and I just assumed that a wire-to-
wire splice would be best the same way. I now find it odd
that Neutrik would make 1/4" connectors where no mechanical
connection to the shield is possible.
>Clean the wires, (splay the stands and lightly sand them)
>wrap them together tightly, then solder them as you described.
To add specific LBC interest to this discussion, I'll point
out that getting clean wire strands was pretty difficult on
the headlight wiring of my B. The stuff across the front of
the car must be very exposed to the elements when in motion,
because the surface of the strands was corroded under the
wire insulation for quite a way back from the end.
Douglas
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