Paul Root wrote:
> I did this last summer, and had a terrible time. Turns out I needed to
> do the tie rod ends too, so it worked out. Tie rod ends are only about
> $20 a set anyway.
>
> So, first. DO NOT USE A tie rod end separator. It will just tear up the
> rubber. And it's probably too wide anyway. MG tie rod ends are pretty small.
>
> You also don't HAVE to take off the tie rod end. You can just unscrew
> the steering rod out of it. Put on the boot and screw it back in. That's
> what Quality Coaches suggested to me. After it was too late.
>
> How I did it, was to back the nut down to the end. put a jack stand
> under the rod, and CAREFULLY lower the car so that a little weight is on
> the rod (NOT MUCH, just positive force to stop rebound). The weight of
> the car is not supported by the rod. I had another jack stand under the
> X-member as a backup and the floor jack. Then a big hammer (31b I think)
> on the nut/bolt. A few medium hits and it pops free. Leaving the nut on
> make sure the rod does go flying up and hit something, like your head.
> It gives you about an inch of free movement.
I have a tool in my toolbox that separates tie-rod ends without
harming the little boots. It's a C-shaped clampy thing with a screw
that pushes the tapered bolt out of the steering arm.
I have used the hammer method in years past and also a small-opening
pickle-fork, and they worked fine, but this tool is the best.
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
--
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