I moved the wires around last night. When I move either
wire to the red/green side, all the ligths come on.
And just connecting one at a time, I found the double wire
handles most of the gauges and both switches (fan and
emergency), and the single wire lights up just the oil
So currently, I have the double on the side with the
red/green and the oil pressure single on the other side.
Since one light is going to have less resistance. That's
all I had time for last night (soccer practice for the
5 year old, aka the future owner, DFO? :-).
Maybe tonight, I can crack it open. It's like $40 or
something, for something that reduces readability. hmm.
> With the red-whites occupying both spades on one side you will have to rig
> up a connector comprising three male spades connected together to link all
> three female connectors. Some years only have one red-white connector so
> with these it is a simple matter of moving that to the spare spade on the
> red/green side.
> If you're going to bypass the rheostat then you needn't worry about the
> heat, it won't be there when bypassed and your lights will be brighter. All
> the ones I have opened up have been printed circuit inside and I could see
> where the thicker sections at the 'bright' end had burnt out, about which
> nothing can be done, and replacements are pretty expensive.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <email@example.com>
> To: "Unknown Mg list" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:23 PM
> Subject: dash light reostat
> > Hi all,
> > I remember a few months back that there was
> > talk about the dimmer switch for the dash lights.
> > Mine has been fussy for the entire time I've had it
> > and apparently, gave up the ghost last night.
> > It's tie wrapped to the cross brace under the dash, as
> > the choke is put in it's place.
> > I took a quick look at it and at Bentley's wiring
> > diagram. Thankfully they match. There is a Red-Green
> > going in, and 3 Red-Whites (on two prongs) coming out.
> > Am I right in thinking that I can rig a connector to
> > connect these wires together directly. Since the reostat
> > only really does off all the way up to dim anyway, who
> > needs it?
> > Oh, the back of the switch was pretty hot to the
> > touch (not burning). Could this location be bad for it?
> > I'm going to pull it when I get a chance and see what I
> > can do about the insides.
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