Larry:
Echo Barney's post. Make sure the spacer is there the nut should tighten
fully with no change in hub play. The spacer adds a tremendous amount of
strength to the stub axle, and should be there.
>From my experience I don't bother with a dial gauge to set the end play. I
set the shims so there is just a smidgeon of play when the nut is tightened
down. A smidgeon means that with a wheel on, I can detect movement when I
pull on the bottom of the tire.
Buy a bearing packer. It's a pair of cones, mounted on a threaded center
which has a grease zerk. Put the bearing between the two cones, then pump
the center full of grease till it oozes through the rollers. They are cheap
and available from any good parts store.
AFAIA all of the pre-packaged bearing kits on the market are of good
quality. Bearing technology is pretty well sorted. B front bearings are
not a weak point, with minimum maintenance they last for a long time.
Kelvin.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Colen [mailto:lrcar@red4est.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 11:21 AM
> To: mgs
> Subject: Front wheel bearings
>
>
> While my front wheel bearings are not to the point of qualifying as
> _bad_, the ideal adjustment seems to be between two settings. If I set
> them with the cotter pin through the horizontal hole, it seems just a
> touch loose. If I turn the nut 1/2 a flat and put the pin through the
> vertical hole, they seem a bit tight and sort of bind a bit when I
> turn the hub.
>
> What is the wisdom of the list on installing, adjusting, packing,
> buying etc. wheel bearings? Assume that I know nothing on the
> subject, because one never knows what minor piece of information one
> is missing. Granted, if you insist that hitting your thumb with a
> hammer is a critical step in the process, I'll probably want to double
> check with others on that detail before I come over to your house and
> hit your thumb with a hammer.
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