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Re: Clutch plumbing

To: "Bob Howard" <>
Subject: Re: Clutch plumbing
From: "Lawrie Alexander" <>
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:39:28 -0700

We've installed six of these hoses in the last few weeks with no problems

One thing about the metal pipe being difficult to thread into the new rubber
hose: Often we've found that the flared end of the metal pipe has "belled"
out from being aggressively tightened into place in the old hose. It pulls
out of the old hose with apparent ease but, in fact, it is being forced past
the female threads of the hose. In order to get it into the new hose and get
the threads started, it is necessary to lightly file the o.d. of the flare
so that it will push in far enough to allow the first thread of the tube-nut
to start into the threads of the rubber hose. This is something not unique
to T-series hoses - we've experienced this many times on all types of cars.

British Sportscar Center

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <>
To: <>
Cc: <>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch plumbing

>    A question inspired by this plumbing issue---
>    Within the last couple of weeks I bought new brake hoses for my TD,
> Delphi/Lockheed, Moss #180-840.  Removed old hoses, attempted to thread
> metal brake line nut into new hose. Would not thread in. Old hose would
> thread in again.  Tried to screw on the large nut that locks hose to
> chassis. Would not thread on. Tried on old hose, and it would thread on
> again.  Compared old hose external threads (male threads) to new hose
> male threads and find that the #threads per inch is same but that the new
> threads appear to be cut less deep into the metal and the OD of the new
> threads is larger than old.  Other end of the new hose fits the wheel end
> fine.
>    I need to return and get replacement new hoses, it seems.
>    Has anyone else had this problem?
> Bob

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