Your note on the throttle cable reminded me of a trick I learned years ago on
renewing choke and throttle cables. I went to the store and bought two
"universal" replacement choke cables. I pulled the inside cable completely out
and cut it right where it joins the shaft. Did the same operation with the old
cable (I think I actually had to cut a tiny piece of the end of the shaft).
Then drilled a tiny hole in the end of the old shaft just big enough to put the
new cable in. One can crimp it or solder it (I think I soldered mine). Then I
took the new wound-wire outside sheath and cut it right where it joins the
mounting tube. Did the same with my original cable and then joined the two.
But you are right, I had to heavily modify a mount to use the choke cable, and
the throttle cable I have not even installed. But after three years, my
new/old choke cable is still working great.
Carlos Madero
'53 5 window-out-of-comission-waiting-for-new-king-pins-and-bushings
----------
> Having found a VERY rusty 50 in a local yard, I have been nabbing parts
> here and there...
> one of which is a throttle cable, uncut, w/ the proper knob (looks like
> someone 20 or 30 years ago was going to connect a new one, never finished).
> While I know it goes through the little holder on top of my Rochester,
> WHERE does the business end connect?
> Should it go on the throttle lever, where the arm from the accellerator
> crank gets hooked up? Is there a special barrel nut, or should it just be
> looped thru the hole the cotter pin now sits in - etc etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> (btw - if any one need something, I'll look for it, but this truck is far
> too gone to restore. I have the light switch, the knobs and the correct
> rear bumper (at last). Seat frames look good, some ok trim).
>
> craig
> caretaker of
> stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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