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Re: [oletrucks] Tranny Crossmember - 53 3100

To: "WR Teto" <monadnoc@wgserv.crystal-mtn.com>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Tranny Crossmember - 53 3100
From: "william moldenhauer" <wmh678@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 16:39:11 -0500
Wally I had to remove the old trans crossmember and installed one from rb's
obsolete . there is no clean way to remove this bracket since it riveted top
and bottom,without removing the cab. you will have to pick up a set of motor
mounts and weld them to your ifs crossmember .take good measurements before
welding for fan clearance ( I went with electric and short water pump and
have about four inches to spare) I was given a steering column out of a 72
chevy pick-up it looked too long when the truck was apart so I ordered an
ididit column and it turned out to be the same size.  I installed a 700r
trans and had very little clearance from cab so i put  a 1" body lift kit on
cab and core support and this gave me enough clearance . ping me off list if
you need more info.
bill 53-3600 street rod
-----Original Message-----
From: WR Teto <monadnoc@wgserv.crystal-mtn.com>
To: Ole Trucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 30, 1999 1:51 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Tranny Crossmember - 53 3100


>I've got a question for those who've rodded their AD's (Dave Riffel,
>Lonnie, etc.).  My progress is as follows.  I have have the front IFS
>installed, as well as the new rear leaf suspension and posi rear end.
>I'm trying to drop an engine/tranny (small block/TH-350) in as one piece
>to locate the motor mounts and tranny cross member.  The cab is still on
>the frame, but all other body work has been removed.  It seems it is not
>possible to drop in this combination without interference from the stock
>cross member directly below the firewall.  The tranny will not fit
>through without hitting either the cab on top, or the tranny fluid pan
>on the cross member.  Did you guys have to remove this?  I could install
>the combination separately, putting the tranny in from below with a
>jack, and bolting it up to the block, but I'd like to be able to drop it
>all in from the front.  I could remove the cab, but then I'm sure I'd
>have to split the engine/tranny if I ever had to remove the tranny down
>the road.  I'd like to leave the cab on for now to see any clearance
>problems.  Eventually it will come off for the rest of the frame
>cleaning and painting.
>
>I have the new front cross member welded in for the IFS.  I'm
>considering removing that offending member, dropping everything in place
>and supporting the tranny with the standard bolt-up support as is used
>on modern GM cars and trucks.  Will this be sufficient enough to keep
>the frame from twisting?  It's currently boxed back as far as the
>firewall.  I don't see a big deal with the stock member removal.  There
>is still another stock cross member that is located back near where the
>tranny tail shaft will be.
>
>Any help appreciated.  I sure am exicted now that it is a rolling
>chassis and I can finally push it in and out of the garage.
>
>On another note, what did you guys use for steering column?  I was
>looking through the bone yard yesterday for a GM with tilt (no column
>shifter).  Guy there suggested maybe one out of a truck, Blazer or
>Suburban.  Was trying to avoid spending $$$ on one of those nifty Ididit
>steel or even aluminum ones...they are nice though!  I did have quite a
>few to pick through at my local junk yard.
>
>Wally / Templeton, MA
>53 3100 rod project
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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