1955 1st series were still 6 volt. Thanks, David
> From: G. Simmons <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> To: Wayne Osborne <email@example.com>; firstname.lastname@example.org
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gas gauge problem
> Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 11:30 AM
> I think Ron's problem is unlikely to be the ground, since the gauge
> apparently worked fine before his conversion to 12 volts. Rather, the
> problem is the gauge itself, which was designed for six volts but now has
> running through it.
> 1.) Buy a gas gauge voltage converter. I got one of these from, I
> Chevy Duty, and it wasn't much good. Maybe I put it in wrong, but there
> aren't too many ways they can go in, and I know I read the instructions
> least twice...
> 2) Buy a '55 gauge. '55 1st series were made for 12 volts, so if you can
> find one and afford to pay for it, it ought to bolt right in and end your
> worries...until your visa bill arrives.
> 3) Send the thing off to United Speedometer (or someone else offering
> similar services). They're in Riverside CA and you can find them on the
> internet and in lots of classic car/truck mags. They can do a lot more
> fix your fuel gauge. The photos in their ads look pretty neat. Again,
> there's the old question of how much do you want to spend?
> 4) (a) Go to your local parts store, thumb through the Stewart-Warner
> other gauge maker) catalog until you find a modern gas gauge with a
> needle style (sweeps from below the face, not through the center) and a
> similar arc from E to F as the original gauge.
> (b) Carefully drill out the two small rivets holding the face to the
> works of the original gauge. Do the same for the new gauge.
> (c) Use tiny machine screws in the old rivet holes to put the old
> face on the new works. On the ones I did, there was some plastic on the
> gauge bodies that I could tap right into. I made pilot holes with the
> heated end of a paperclip. You may have to carefully trim the bottom of
> face to clear the sweep of the new needle. Remember that the bottom of
> gauge is hidden by the cross-in-circle shaped internal bezel when you put
> everything back together, so a little trimming down there won't show.
> (d) This is a good time to reface the gauge (and the other gauges
> with a new vinyl stick on gauge face that all the good suppliers sell.
> off the needle from the old gauge and super glue it over the new needle
> you'll match the other gauge needles. Reassemble and reinstall.
> (e) Now, you'll have to deal with the sender, because the original
> sender sends a different kind of signal than modern gauges like. Here,
> you'll want to essentially take the same approach as with the gauge. Get
> modern sending unit, and after stripping the old sender off of the
> tube, solder or braze the new system in its place. Before you strip off
> old sender, note where the fulcrum of the old float arm was, and try to
> match that to the new one. Hook up the wires and put it all back
> Total cost should be around $50.
> Regards, Grant S. email@example.com
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959