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Re: [oletrucks] gas gauge problem

To: "G. Simmons" <gls@4link.net>, "Wayne Osborne" <wcosborne@inetnow.net>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gas gauge problem
From: "HeavyChevy" <heavychevy@heavychevy.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 12:18:37 -0600
1955 1st series were still 6 volt. Thanks, David

> From: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
> To: Wayne Osborne <wcosborne@inetnow.net>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gas gauge problem
> Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 11:30 AM
> I think Ron's problem is unlikely to be the ground, since the gauge
> apparently worked fine before his conversion to 12 volts.  Rather, the
> problem is the gauge itself, which was designed for six volts but now has
> running through it.
> Solutions:
> 1.)  Buy a gas gauge voltage converter.  I got one of these from, I
> Chevy Duty, and it wasn't much good.  Maybe I put it in wrong, but there
> aren't too many ways they can go in, and I know I read the instructions
> least twice...
> 2) Buy a '55 gauge.  '55 1st series were made for 12 volts, so if you can
> find one and afford to pay for it, it ought to bolt right in and end your
> worries...until your visa bill arrives.
> 3) Send the thing off to United Speedometer (or someone else offering
> similar services).  They're in Riverside CA and you can find them on the
> internet and in lots of classic car/truck mags.  They can do a lot more
> fix your fuel gauge.  The photos in their ads look pretty neat.  Again,
> there's the old question of how much do you want to spend?
> 4)  (a) Go to your local parts store, thumb through the Stewart-Warner
> other gauge maker) catalog until you find a modern gas gauge with a
> needle style (sweeps from below the face, not through the center) and a
> similar arc from E to F as the original gauge.
>     (b) Carefully drill out the two small rivets holding the face to the
> works of the original gauge.  Do the same for the new gauge.
>     (c)  Use tiny machine screws in the old rivet holes to put the old
> face on the new works.  On the ones I did, there was some plastic on the
> gauge bodies that I could tap right into.  I  made pilot holes with the
> heated end of a paperclip.  You may have to carefully trim the bottom of
> face to clear the sweep of the new needle.  Remember that the bottom of
> gauge is hidden by the cross-in-circle shaped internal bezel when you put
> everything back together, so a little trimming down there won't show.
>     (d)  This is a good time to reface the gauge (and the other gauges
> with a new vinyl stick on gauge face that all the good suppliers sell. 
> off the needle from the old gauge and super glue it over the new needle
> you'll match the other gauge needles. Reassemble and reinstall.
>     (e)   Now, you'll have to deal with the sender, because the original
> sender sends a different kind of signal than modern gauges like.  Here,
> you'll want to essentially take the same approach as with the gauge.  Get
> modern sending unit, and after stripping the old sender off of the
> tube, solder or braze the new system in its place.  Before you strip off
> old sender, note where the fulcrum of the old float arm was, and try to
> match that to the new one.  Hook up the wires and put it all back
> Total cost should be around $50.
> Regards, Grant S. gls@4link.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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