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Re: [oletrucks] Body Work

To: "Grant Galbraith" <trks@javanet.com>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Body Work
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:28:52 -0600
I also put Carters floor panels in.. the welder did an expert job and they
fit in perfectly with one problem... The left one went in fine, the right
one went in fine but the center screw-in panel is too big by about 1/2 inch.
Forcing it in makes it look like crap. The welder forced it in there..
bending the lip of the panel so now I have a dilemna. I will probably cut
1/4" off both sides, weld about a 1/2" reinforcing strip on each side
underneath to raise it to its previous lip-level, and screw it down. The
master cylinder hole is slightly off but no complaints really, however the
park brake hole is enough off where I had to adjust the foot arm to
compensate. All-in-all tho.. you cant tell the floor was ever repaired. I am
very impressed with the exception of the center panel.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Galbraith" <trks@javanet.com>
To: "Andy Johns" <andy51chevy@mindspring.com>
Cc: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Body Work


>      I'm a little late on this reply... Jim Carter is the manufacturer of
the
> best floor panels and it seems the majority of vendors get them from him.
That
> said I've had a couple problems with his. I found them to be wide by 3/4
of an
> inch and had to slice them the whole length where the door seal will fit,
remove
> the mat'l and reweld. If don't do this and merrily weld them in it will
through
> your hinge pillar off by that amount. I called to point this out but I
think
> they are getting tired of hearing from me and when they didn't return my
call I
> didn't pursue it. After a while I get tried of futile complaining. Also
the left
> panel has the master cylinder hole off location, but still usable. The
left
> looks very authentic. The right however has the stiffening ribs the wrong
width
> and depth. This apparently only matters to me as when I called JC and
other
> vendors they said out of the 45 gazillion of these they have sold I was
the only
> one to complain. I hear this allot. Also was told it's in the floor, who
is
> going to see it, blah blah. I may be a little fanatic here but I go to the
> trouble of butt welding floor panels, grinding welds and whatever it takes
to
> make it look like it was never repaired. All this to be given away by a
panel
> that isn't authentic looking. Anyhow I would ask Chevy Duty to make sure
they
> are the same ones Carter sells, they aren't perfect but the best I could
find.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> Andy Johns wrote:
>
> > Howdy all,
> >     I'm looking in to replacing the floor and toe board in my '51 3100.
All
> > this talk about patch panels made me think to ask, has one done this?
Most
> > of what I've heard is cab corners and such.  Chevy duty is about 30 or
forty
> > dollars cheaper than Harmons or brothers, is the quality just as good?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Andy Johns
> > '51 3100
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Charles Culver <sculver@iwl.net>
> > To: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
> > Cc: oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 11:22 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Body Work
> >
> > > >I am hoping to get some input<
> > >
> > > Dave-
> > >
> > > I'm like you, want my trucks to look really good, but am having a lot
of
> > the
> > > work done elsewhere.  My initial project was my '50, which was pretty
much
> > > rust/dent free from the start.  So I basically just had to smooth a
couple
> > > of places out, and it was ready for the paint shop, where it is now.
> > >
> > > Then I bought the '56.  Unlike the '50, this one did not come from
> > Arizona,
> > > and was far from rust free.  In fact, there are major rust places to
> > repair.
> > > My plan was to take it to a sheet metal restoration place and leave
it,
> > > having all the patch panels done, then pick it up when it's finished.
> > > However, I went out to visit a fellow list member, who had done all
this
> > > himself, and was so impressed that I decided to try it myself.
> > >
> > > I am amazed at the patch panels that are available to fit all the
typical
> > > places where trucks tend to rust out.  And I learned that a properly
> > welded
> > > patch panel will give you a stronger area than what was there
originally.
> > > My wife recently bought me a Lincoln 115v wire feed welder, which is
ideal
> > > for this kind of work, and although I haven't tried anything on the
truck
> > > yet, with a little practice, I believe I can do as well as anyone.
And
> > > although I don't have a lot of time to spend on this, I figure I can
order
> > a
> > > panel or two, weld them in, order another one or two, etc., until some
day
> > I
> > > have a solid truck, then off to the paint shop.  Might be something to
> > think
> > > about.
> > >
> > > And finally, might I recommend a great book:  "How To Restore Your
> > Chevrolet
> > > Pickup" by Tom Brownell, Published by Motorbooks International.  My
copy
> > > cost 20 bucks at Barnes & Nobel.  Has a lot of restoration info in all
> > areas
> > > for 1928-1991 trucks.
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > > Smokey Culver
> > > '50 3600 5-window (mine) & '56 3600 (hers)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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