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RE: [oletrucks] Finding what I really need in an oletruck

To: "'Robert Horvick'" <rhorvick@GreatPlains.com>, oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Finding what I really need in an oletruck
From: "Nelson, Jeff - DTC" <jnelson@paducah.k12.ky.us>
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:51:22 -0600
Robert,
I'll kick in some thoughts here, but I hope you get feedback from others
since I'll probably make mistakes. I have a 53 3/4T (3600) so I can answer
some of your questions.

> Is the 3/4 ton really out of the picture for highway speed driving?
> 
With the stock rear end and stock tires and wheels, you will be lucky to run
at 50mph without getting the engine rpms too high. Several members have put
on larger wheels and tires and have achieved higher speeds (55 to 60). There
are rear end swaps you can make to improve speeds, but that may be more than
you want to tackle at this time. If you might be interested in this
approach, check out the archives.
 
> Is there a practical difference between the 216 and 235 that makes one a
> better option for a relatively green backyard-"mechanic"?
> 
The main differences between the 216 and 235 (post 1954? there were a couple
of years when the 235 used splash oiling also) are the rod bearings and the
engine oiling. Bearings are insert type on the 235, poured babbit on the
216. The 216 used splash oiling while the 235 used full pressure oil pump.
If both types of engines are running well, there is not a lot of difference
in the basic mechanics (tune-ups, etc.) 

> Are there years I should be avoiding or seeking out?
> 
???? I'm not aware of any years being particularly problematic or
particularly more valuable than others.

> Should I be looking at the GMC's as well or will Chevy's have more
> abundant
> part availability?
> 
Certainly you will have an easier time finding parts for the Chevys but the
Jimmy owners on the list will be able to give you excellent reasons why you
should be looking at GMCs as well.

> How do I tell a 52 and 53 apart (not really related but bugging me! :)
> 
Differences can be subtle. If the hood is original and the side emblems are
there, the 1952 will have both the word Chevrolet and below it the series
number (i.e. 3100, 3600, etc.) The 1953 will only have the series number. If
the original VIN plate is still on the drivers door frame, the 1952 VIN will
begin with a number, the 53 will begin with a letter.

> So what do I need to know before I shoot myself in the foot?
> 
Do your research! Get the specifications from Chevy (go to the
chevytrucks.org web site for info on getting the specs.) Get shop manual and
factory assembly manual. Get catalogs from all the vendors. HAVE FUN!!!!!

Good luck,
Jeff Nelson
1953 3600
Paducah, KY

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