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[oletrucks] Paint Primer

To: little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com (Bruce Damen)
Subject: [oletrucks] Paint Primer
From: Tom3600@webtv.net
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 15:24:23 -0400 (EDT)

I know a little bit about paint and primers having been in the paint
business for over 40 yrs.  For 10 of those years I was in the R&D lab
developing corrosion resistant primers for John Deere and Caterpillar
The no. 1 thing to consider before any primer is METAL PREPARATION!  The
surface must be rust free, oil free, dirt free, etc.  You must put some
kind of phosphate on the metal whether it be iron or zinc.   There are
lots of products  available for this just ask your local paint dealer or
bodyshop what product they recommend.  The reason you need this is that
it will give you rust prevention and promote adhesion of the primer.
Actually some slight flash rusting is good and will be present on the
surface after the phosphatizing procedure.    Todays primers do not
contain lead or zinc anymore for several obvious reasons. This means
that the primers available today are strictly to fill in the surface of
the metal and give you adhesion of the topcoat and do not prevent
corrosion any more than the topcoat.
Consider this your Primer primer.  Do not hesitate to contact me with
any of your metal finishing questions.

Tom Poterack
'49 Chevy 3600

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Message-ID: <38F9F11C.EB7DAE2A@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:58:04 -0600
From: Bruce Damen <little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com>
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To: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
CC: AAAOleTrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Project Update
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Reply-To: Bruce Damen <little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com>

sounds great deve,   wishing i had the time you have to do my truck.   one thing
that i think some one told me is that primer does not protect your metal from
rusting,  i do think there is some types of primes that do rusty proof the metal
but most primers are for adhesion of the paint not for protection of the metal
to any great degree...  again this is all hear say and maybe something to
consider before everything you do has to be redone because of the cursed rust
monsters.   keep the up dates coming maybe it will motivate me to make time and
try to catch up to you

1949 chev 1/2 ton
Deve Krehbiel wrote:

> I just spent the last approx 2 weeks re-sandblasting and have now finished
> four fenders, inside fenders, running boards, doors, hood halves, seat
> frame, grill pan, radiator mount, bumper skirt, and a few other misc items.
> I used a cheapie Craftsman siphon sandblaster. To do the job right, it took
> on average about 4 hours per piece. This may seem like a long time, but the
> results are really amazing. I paid $650 for the dry strip that was
> unacceptable, and doing it myself cost approx $150 in sand and ceramic
> nozzles. An investment in time really pays off.
> Today, I used Sherwin Williams 980 etching primer/filler (and surgical
> gloves when touching the cleaned bare metal) and primed all the parts. Now,
> I can take my time and assess all the small damage that needs repaired. I
> have door bottom sheet metal to replace, various dents to fix, and some spot
> welding to do. Good news is, the primer will protect the metal until I get
> around to repairing everything at which time, epoxy primer and top coat can
> be applied. I took a chance and went to a Tool Show in Newton, KS at the
> National Guard Armory (cheapie tools) and purchased a Touch-Up Spray Gun (8
> oz. can I think) for $14.95. I know you get what you pay for, but I was very
> impressed! It works as advertised and really did a fine job. I dunno how
> well it would do on top coats, but on primer it works amazingly well.
> Next step is to sandblast the cab. As explained above, this will take
> considerable time, but I am positive I can complete it in a week. I will
> sandblast inside and out very thoroughly. My dad (who finally came back to
> Kansas after spending the winter in south TX) made me a Cab Cart. This is
> really nice! It has 2 wheels that pivot and 2 stationary. The wheels are
> large and the stationary ones are inflatable. Its footprint is the size of
> the cab so it takes no more room than the cab, and its platform is built
> perfectly to accomodate the cab mounting holes. Of course the custom
> platform is raised and set up to protect the floor of the cab. To top that
> off, he made a hitch so I can pull the cab cart around with my Lawn Tractor!
> Now, when I sandblast the cab in our lot next to the shop, I dont have to
> have help moving it out to the sandblast site.
> I have another roll of film and I will scan them soon and get them up on the
> site. Stay tuned for further developments. As always, thanks to everyone for
> all the advice and help I seem to constantly need!
> Deve
> 50 3100
> 49 3600
> www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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