I think the main problem is the distance of the spot welds that you tried to
connect. I assume this is a but weld. I start out perhaps 5 inches apart and
then start going in-between until I end up with spots about 3/4 inches apart. I
then weld the spots together skipping around to not concentrate heat. I still
sometimes get minor warpage doing this. Ways you can minimize it are to use a
copper or aluminum backup. I've heard of heat dam putty to also be good.
I set my Lincoln on the next to lowest setting, just enough so it will
penetrate the thickness of the metal . 80/20 mix is what you want.
Since you have nothing to loose you may try straightening. Welds shrink when
they cool. Try backing up the weld with steel and hammer just the weld to
stretch. Go easy, its easy to move and work the length gradually. You can also
try working the areas with a soft mallet and sand bag. You might get lucky. If
you get it reasonably close you may feel filling is an option at that point. If
all else fails, cutting the weld might be worth a try. Maybe even spot in a
backup strip. I generally don't like backups or flanged joints because they can
trap water, especially in the bottom of your door.
At least this experience you're gaining is on a door which I would imagine in
your area can be found relatively easily.
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150
Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> Altho I am betting there is no hope for me, anyone having suggestions,
> please shout out! The issue is, I am working on the lower inside door
> panels. I cut the perfect hole, clamped the new piece in place in the
> perfect way, spot welded the piece about every 5 inches across to hold it in
> so I wouldnt warp the piece, and then disaster!!! I am so bummed out.
> I tried to connect the first spot welds together running a bead across. I
> then moved to the opposite side of the door to run the next bead so as not
> to build up too much heat and warp the material. Guess what? Yes, you are
> correct.. you get the blue banana! It warped anyway. It warped badly. It is
> so warped that I now have to decide how to fix the problem. My choices are:
> 1) Bondo the crap out of it.. not an option since this truck is destined to
> be perfect.
> 2) Buy another repro panel and try again.. not an option since I warped more
> material than the repro panel covers.
> 3) Buy a better door.. one that has no rust thru thus no need to weld
> anything. Not an option because this is not just about building the perfect
> truck. Its about learning how to overcome these obstacles in the most
> professional way possible and learning how to do it myself.
> 4) Cut the warped part out and weld a new piece in. OK, I can do this but I
> am scared to after the fiasco I just created for myself.
> I thought I did everything right. I have a Lincoln SP175 Plus (220v GMAW)
> and it has voltage and great wire feed adjustments. I had an experience
> welder show me how to use it but I didnt like how he did it (I know.. but
> wait!). He had me put the welder on "E" and "6" which is moderate voltage
> and moderate wire feed. But on these thin panels, I observed quickly that if
> you set it that high, you succeed only in burning holes thru the metal. I
> put it on "C" and "4". Lower voltage allowing me to take my time and put
> down a nicer bead with less wire. He also has me using straight Co2.
> So, now that I am totally at a loss to know what to do next, what are your
> suggestions? Would the 20/80 Argon Gas make any difference? Is the lower
> voltage somehow causing more heat? Should I be waiting longer to let the
> panel cool before proceeding? Are there any tricks that I dont know? I am
> new at this so any help would be appreciated. My plan is to use virtually no
> bondo on this truck but to add enough weld to smooth it to near perfect.
> Thanks in advance!
> Deve Krehbiel
> Hesston, Kansas
> 1950 3100 * 1949 3600
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959