Allen-
Yep, its an nos 261 short block I got from Tom Langdon last summer,
manufactured as a service engine in 1966, I think it was. Hardly any rust
in the cylinders and only a little surface rust elsewhere. If I were to
bore it 1/8" (to 3.875")where should I look for cylinders? I'd really like
to increase the compression ratio some more than the 235 head will do and
the extra displacement would be good. Rich Gallagher
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Jones [mailto:jonesal@u.washington.edu]
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 9:07 AM
To: Rich Gallagher
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Overheats at idle
You say NOS. If it is truly NOS, then I imagine you can hone out the
cylinders (rust over the years) and run it. I see no reason to bore out the
block unless it is a rare '54, then you can bore it 250 thousands (very
thick walls) to get the extra displacement, but then custom forged pistons
will be required, and other problems arise. In other words, I recommend
leaving it alone. Actual NOS 261s can be worth $5000 if still in the box.
If having an NOS 261 is not important to you, sell it and use the cash to
fix up your ride. For comparison, I purchased a 261 core for $150.
The 4 barrel set up will run great.
Good luck!
Allen in Seattle
'50 3100
Inliner No. 2235
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Gallagher" <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
To: "A. Jones" <jonesal@u.washington.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 9:23 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Overheats at idle
> Hi everyone, this last post about hopping up a 261 really intrigued me. I
> need advice regarding my nos short block 261 I'm planning to swap for the
> 216 in my 50 3800, 1 ton. I'ts an old farm truck I purchased about 15
years
> ago to use on my place and it looks and runs great. But, I want to keep
it
> original except for the engine, differential, and we are going to make a
> flat bed out of it but still able to take the Omaha Standard grain/stock
> rack it came with. I'm still rebuilding the front end and brakes. I've
got
> the rear axles pulled and a 3.90 ring and pinion is coming from Art
Houser.
>
> Should I have the nos 261 (originally 3.75) bored to 3.875 or more? I've
> got the Oppenhauser 4 barrel hot water heated intake and the Fentons to go
> on it along with an 848 head which is at the machine shop.
>
> What do you think? Advice? Thanks.
>
> Rich Gallagher
> Great Falls, MT
> 50 1 ton
> 56 1/2 ton
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of A. Jones
> Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 8:28 PM
> To: ADvent@thuntek.net
> Cc: oletrucks
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Overheats at idle
>
>
> Here's the stuff I thought important for a "period correct" hopped up
> motor for my '50 (and with the assistance from K. Pat Smith of Inliners
> International):
>
> 261 cubic inch Chevrolet 6 cylinder (inline)
> Bore and stroke: 3.9405" x 3.7500"
> Head:
> - 235 - 848 casting
> - Elliptical valve profile
> - Ported
> - Stock rocker arms
> - Tubular push rods
> Block
> - Full flow, pressure oiling
> - Aluminum flat top pistons with 9.0 to 1 compression ratio
> - Full balance
> - Stock 261 rods
> - Custom Pontiac harmonic balancer
> - High volume oil pump
> Cam (poor selection for the intake system)
> - Intake and exhaust: 264 duration at 0.250" lifter rise
> - Lift: intake and exhaust 0.445"
> - Power range: 2,000 to 4,000 rpms
> Intake
> - Offenhauser dual intake manifold
> - 2 x stock Rochester B carburetors
> Exhaust
> - Dual Fenton cast headers
> - 2 x 36" glass packs
> - Shotgun 1-3/4" dual exhaust
> Ignition
> - Stock spark delivery (soon to be converted V6 HEI)
>
> It scoots! The weak link is the stock 4 speed and it may get changed to
> a Saginaw in the future (I'm trying to keep the truck period
> correct). With 3.55s in the rear, it does very well on the
> highway.
>
> Thanks for asking!
>
> Allen in Seattle
> '50 3100
> Inliner No. 2235
>
> On Tue, 4 Jul 2000 ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
>
> >
> > Tell us about the 261, you caught my interest and others too I would
> guess!
> > "A. Jones" wrote:
> >
> > > I couldn't agree more. I have a hopped up 261 in my '50 using a stock
> > > radiator, water pump, and fan, and have no trouble overheating at all
> > > (even when I reef on the engine in the city). I would
> > > suspect that either there's crud in some of the block water jackets or
> > > your radiator has also lost efficiency through crud build up.
> > >
> > > I will say as a safety measure, I installed a pusher electric fan in
> front
> > > of the radiator (installs very nicely on the x brace), and it is
> invisible
> > > unless you look up into the grill. The only time I use it is for the
> fun
> > > of it.....
> > >
> > > On Mon, 3 Jul 2000, Gordon Groves wrote:
> > >
> > > > I would check your cooling system before you go too far with re
> > > > engineering the fan , I also have a '56 235 in my '51 1/2 ton and
even
> > > > in sunny Tucson AZ it doesn't overheat , even with air temps over
100
> > > > deg. It gets hot all right and even after parking for a few hours it
> > > > will still be 180 deg. at start up but I haven't had any boiling or
> > > > anything like that . Just a thought.
> > > >
> > > > Gordon Groves
> > > > '51 chevy half ton
> > > > '54 IHC Travelall
> > > >
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > >
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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