I brought up that fact those are car front ends, but if all you do with it is
cruise it, it shouldn't be a problem. I, for one, would not want an IFS, car or
truck. I like a solid axle, especially with a diff in the middle. If money was
no
object, I would like to cut the one 73 to 91 straight axles down to width for my
50'. Or even the super duty 10 lug nut wheels and axles.
Has anyone ever install anti-lock brakes? Hmmm? Dually alxes, anti-lock brakes
and an Auburn Air Lock diffs, front and rear. That would be trick. Along with a
261, 700R4, NP208 transfer case.
Dennis O'Connor wrote:
> Good IFS discussions...this list is a great source of information!
>
> The only point about IFS swaps which hasn't really been covered is that you're
> putting a car suspension into a truck. The how-to page I've seen on the Pacer
> IFS swap notes how the Pacer is nearly as heavy as our trucks (3800lbs) so
> it's "plenty sturdy". That is, until you add 2 passengers, a dog, and 1/2 ton
> of payload. The Mustang II was lighter than the Pacer.
>
> Sure, lots of folks don't use their trucks to haul stuff around so that's
> probably fine. But if you do load it up you're second guessing what safety
> factors the original IFS designers put in (1.25X? 1.5X? 2.0X?) before it fails
> when it hits that big pothole down the street. :)
>
> I'm really surprised why nobody is selling kits to swap the IFS from the
> Chevy/GMC Rounded Series ('72-'87) trucks. I'm doing this on both a 1/2 ton
> (from a C-10) and a 3/4 ton (from a C-20) at home. Drop spindles and new
> springs are pretty much a requirement for lowering, along with some spacers
> and brackets to bolt it on, but there's good peace on mind that it's designed
> for the task at hand.
>
> -Boyo
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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